Hey Todd, didn’t realize I watched your video back around the same time I bought this 12V charger when you did. Charged our Yeti 1400 on the go on 2 trips, first with our Odyssey minivan, charging mainly a 12V 50QT cooler, cooking with induction cooker & rice cooker, and used the Boulder 100 briefcase panels to charge when stationary. Worked out well. Then used it in our class B ‘95 Roadtrek, and was a nice complement to the built in propane cooktop/heater and also charged the yeti when in motion. Now thinking of adding a set of those lightweight solar panels you reviewed in the other video, and can really charge quickly if I can get an input of 120W on average. Take care!
I just was so impressed ,I would like to know if that version would be to much draw from the stock ports of vehicles causing a fire hazard.if so I would run a new outlet larger gauge wiring.please make a DYI on your complete build and setup .I bought the unit from Costco and finding a safe and better and faster way then stock charging would really help.Thanks again Del
You can check your manual to see what your vehicle’s 12v ports are rated for and use the 5/10a switch to keep it safe. If you want to charge faster at home, you can attach multiple wall chargers: ruclips.net/video/uXKUGWiETMM/видео.html and in the next few months Goal Zero is coming out with a 300 wall charger.
Love all the goal zero videos I think you should definitely do the DIY 12V charger. I wonder if you could use 2 or the goal zero car chargers at the same time one in the regular input and one in the mppt. Thanks for the vids
Thanks Ryan. I got clarification on that very issue a few days ago and, yes, the PWM and MPPT modules are separate and each can handle 360 watts for at total of 720 watts (or even a bit more if it doesn't get too hot). The 8mm charging ports can accept up to 10A (120W max) so you should be fine plugging a car charger into a port on the PWM and a second on the MPPT. You can also use the 8mm to Anderson Power Pole adaptor to sum these into one connector and plug that into that port because it can handle up to 360 watts. The main consideration is how much power you can pull from your vehicle, that might put a strain on your battery or alternator.
Hello I currently run two of these chargers and get 200-270 watts when the car is running for my 1000 core. Would it be okay to add two 100 watt solar panels to my system? Or would that blow it up because that would be over the 300 watt input limit?
I too ordered one as soon as they hit the GZ site. Installed it last week in my Jeep to power the same Yeti1000 you have. So far so good. My Jeep battery gives me 125 watts on the 10A setting! I've got the unit mounted under my seat via a 12v aftermarket plug wired in to a dash switch so I can flip it on whenever a charge is needed. I'll keep an eye on the heat production as that seems to be a thought of everyone.
I’ve got a 2012 jk. When the engine is running, the input fluctuates from 0 to 14 and 115 and then repeats that cycle over and over. Do you get the same thing? So strange. It’s charging for sure but the fluctuations freak me out. Thanks!
Some questions.... Is that Yeti LifePO4? Any smart way to charge both Solar and car charger? I am considering the Goal Zero... but I have 100 W 12v volt solar panel on my van roof and my cigarette lighter is only on while engine is driving, any way to use both "intelligently" without having to manually switch?
The Yetis uses a Li-ion NMC which isn’t quite as rugged as FiFePO4 in terms of cycles but is still a solid choice. You can connect both a 12v car charger and solar panel into the Yeti at the same time and charge it with whatever is available, no need to switch.
The smaller bump is a ferrite bead. This thing puts out bad RF and the bead slows it or stops it. The real question is will the car cig wiring support 10A with out melting or causing a fire. To check the fuse squeeze the 2 bulging metal portions and turn the serrated tip end CC.
Thanks for the info, seems I didn’t realize I needed to squeeze the conductors. I agree re:wiring, things can get hot depending on the wire gauge. It’s smart they added that 5/10 amp switch.
Did I see somewhere that the GZ car charger has a feature to stop charging when the *input* voltage drops below a certain value? I.e. to stop it from totally flattening (and possibly damaging) the vehicle's main battery that is supplying the charging power. In a vehicle this would only be required when the engine is not running. If the engine is off, or any situation where a standalone battery is supplying the charging power, it would be a useful feature.
Yes the car charger has a low-voltage cut off so it will shut off if the engine is off usually and will turn off if the battery is getting too low. I should probably measure exactly what the voltage cut off is but it definitely is pretty conservative
Can I use this charger to charge a 2nd Yeti 1000 using the 12V car charger port on one, into the MPPT port on the other? (Plan: solar charging Yeti 1, when nearly fully charged, charge Yeti 2 from Yeti 1 while Yeti 1 continues to charge from solar.)
Hi Todd, Have you ever had a problem with the goalzero car charger? My first goal zero car charger just stop (no light at the cable and no input reading) during my car camping trip. I though it burned out so I bought a second one now it has the same problem. I tried to connect to all different car cigarette input in my car and also into my battery charger none of them work. The car cigarettes work fine with other chargers.
Ha, just ran into that this weekend. Pretty sure the fuse needs to be replaced. Unscrew the tip of the cigarette plug and you’ll find a 15a 250v 1.25”’ (30mm) glass fuse. Swap in a new one and you’re golden.
I have problems after 1 month usage. Worked fine,then the blue lamp on 500x remained constantly blue and not loading. Soft reset helped a few times. But after a few days,even if blinking blue,does not charge anymore : ) I've seen all color combinations swap yellow/green on car charger,red as ok fault if the car delivers not enough power... but currently I assume the loader within yeti is broken, as happened last year with a slightly too strong solar panel 22 little plus voltage..
I was disappointed with the lithium 12 volt car charger. I installed an always on 12 volt adapter in the back of my truck. However the car charger only works when the truck is running with the alternator providing enough power for the charger to work.
I’ve had this hooked up for a few days at a stretch in the summer at 10 amp and it gets warm but not too hot. Obviously I wasn’t running the car continuously but it seems solid so far
This cable is just a way to charge your Yeti from the 12v socket on your car. Think of it as equivalent to the wall charger but for your car. The link module is designed to let you both connect the Yeti directly to your alternator for even faster car charging and let you connect to expansion batteries (Tank)
I have a question. Is this charger all I need? I'm confused as to the difference between using this and the "link module", which is significantly more expensive. I've seen talk on the internet about the link module being used to integrate the power station with a car's electrical system, but if I go to the website it says the link module is for connecting to batteries in your home. What do I need?
For basic car charging, this all you need and will charge at 120w. I’m going to go with 2 plugged into different outlets. If you want to charge super fast or have a bigger yeti, you can buy the link module and wire it to your alternator to charge at ~700w but it’s a lot of money.
@@todd.parker , Okay, but the confusing part is that on the Goal Zero website product page for the link module, it doesn't mention anything about vehicle use. It appears to be for home use.
For some reason my gx460 won’t work with GZ car charger at 10 amp. It starts making very faint noise and the wattage drops to 20. 5 amp works great though. My cigarette lighter is 120 watt which should handle 10amp. Any idea? It works great on my other vehicles
Can you use that 4 to 1 Anderson cable to parallel 2 of these in your car? getting 240watt input etc. Or do you think it would be too much strain on the car?
Great video, thanks ! Unfortunately I only get to use the 5a on my brand new VW Caddy Maxi, when I turn on the 10a it drops to 25 Watts. Do you know how to overcome this ? I have a Yeti 1400 and it charges sooooo slowly
I think some cars struggle to output that much power. They sell the tank module that will hook up to your alternator and charge it super fast but it’s $$$
When I hook it to my Sube Outback, the light turns red while ideling like in a parking lot. I have to be driving to get the adapter to turn on. Same if it is switched to 5 amp or 10. Anyone else have this issue? I might just bite the bullet and go to the link. Was hoping for a quick EZ solution without running the cable all the way back. For that matter, anyone hook up a link?
ScotTheGr8 I think I’m having this issue. But at the Yeti input port (I wasn’t watching the light on the adapter though). Definitely goes on and off when idling, not sure when I’m driving. I’ll have to move the battery to my passenger seat to see if it’s charging.
hello, I don't know much about cars or electricity, but my question is: in order to fast charge my goal zero 1400, if I get 3 of those and use a 3to1 cigaret adapter...would it charge at 4500 watts?
No, that wouldn’t work. The cigarette 12v plugs are fused at 20amp max x 12v = 240w. You can charge at a higher rate with the link module and connecting to your alternator.
Hi Todd, I’ve watched your videos over and over. I save them for going back to reference. Thank you. I plugged my car charger in the PWM 8 mil and got only has high as 54 W on the 5 amp with 74W showing as output. I changed to 10 amp on the charger and watts dropped to 30 and below with 0 output on yeti. WTH is happening. Could it be the PWM?
It's Goal Zero's janky car adapters. After I posted this video, the more I used this technique, I found that the 10A setting on the car charger cables frequently will drop down like you experienced, no matter what battery I tested. I think it's just a bad design that. I've been using the 5A setting which seems reliable but you'r limited to 60w. Every other company now limits car charging to 8A (100w) which is a happy medium that all cars and 12v batteries can handle safely.
Has anybody had any issues when using the Yeti chargers?? My 12v yeti car charger was working for the first 20hrs of our trip(though did noticed the plastic box was hot). 1st cigarette lighter socket blew so plugged it to the other outlet which it also burned-out in another couple of hours. Checked the cigarette lighter fuses in my Chevy express 3500 and they are ok..
The 10A setting is pretty borderline. I use the 5A setting for safety. Most other brands limit it 100w, so I think 10A/120W is a bit too much for many vehicles
@@todd.parker Come to think I was charging at 10A... I will do a follow up when I get the cigarette outlets changed and I'll use the 5A setting.. Thanks for your feedback. Keep on with your great videos!!
Just curious... Does the charger have a low voltage cut off? I have an always on/live 12v port in the back of the truck I'd like to use. Will this charger continue to draw power even when the vehecle is off or does it only draw when it's over 13v? Wondering if I need to run a relay to make it a switched power instead.
@@todd.parker Enjoyed the video. Why would someone pay hundreds of dollars more for the car charging kit? What's the benefit over this 12v plug option?
@@todd.parker and @Justin, according to the spec is is a LOT faster. 65A in theory although in practice this will depend on which model Yeti you are inputting into and how much is being generated at the alternator. Also if you putting solar into the Yeti the unit reaches 100% any solar charging will then be directed into your car battery. So it looks cool but it's really damn expensive and you also have to install it including getting the plug of the EC8 cable through the firewall in your car somehow.
@@AdrianChoPhotography Yeah, the alternator charging looks awesome but it seems best for 3000+ Yetis or I'd be worried about charging a battery too fast (high C rate) and shortening it's life. Also, the cost is crazy, should be baked in imo.
Yeah, I had that happen to me. The 10amp settings seems to make it run hot, make high frequency noise, and can pop a 15a fuse. I usually use the 5a setting unless I’m in a hurry
Thanks for the review! After I saw it I got mine from GZ. But didn't see input higher than 20 Watts on my Yeti 1000 (92% charged). Most of the time it was 10 w or less. Defective unit? And yes, shipping was like 1/3 of the price.
@@todd.parker On the last trip the battery drained to 72% (because only this charger was connected and it couldn't replenish the battery fast enough). Same numbers for the input - fluctuates between 10-20%. My solar panel was outputting 70 Watts on the same battery with the same conditions.
Sergey Shumko that odd, you mean 10-20 watts of input when charging the Yeti with this 12v charger? If so, that’s low. You can see I was getting 60-120 watts depending on the switch setting.
My new step up power supply just arrived on the slow boat from China so I'll work on the DIY version soon. In my earlier version of the DIY, I kept blowing fuses because the converter was pulling a lot of power to get started. The advantages of the GZ cable is it seems to have a soft start to avoid that and offers the 5/10amp switch which may seem like small things but can help keep this from pulling too much power. I agree that the shipping was the real killer for me, that's a lot for a tiny cable.
Goal Zero is recommending you use a Link module to direct connect to your alternator to get the fastest and most efficient charge times. An inverter uses a lot of power to convert from DC to AC and back to DC.
Hi Todd - I finally made a van tour video which includes a demonstration of the Victron Orion Isolated 12/24-15 DC-DC charger which charges my Goal Zero Yeti 1000 while I drive. No need for the Yeti link, and it's cheaper too. Hope this helps you and your viewers! Thanks! ruclips.net/video/RpZ0wcBm6Wg/видео.html
@@todd.parker thanks!! Yes, it's directly connected to my car battery using 8 gauge stranded wire, and from the Victron Orion to the Yeti 1000 it's using 10 gauge stranded wire. No safety concerns but it definitely needs ventilation. I'm thinking about putting a connector on between the car battery and the Orion. I can then get a normal lead acid 12v battery then put a similar connector on that. When I'm camping, just disconnect the car to Orion battery and hook it up to the standalone battery. I'll need to adjust the Victron Orion settings to stop at 12.05 volts, which should be roughly 50% SoC. This would allow me to use the Yeti 100p for a longer time while camping. When go back to driving again, I'll just reconnect everything back to normal. To charge that extra battery, I can use the Victron BlueSmart IP65 battery charger hooked up to the Yeti 1000. As the Yeti charges from the car, the Yeti will provide power to the Victron BlueSmart and then charge the extra battery. Or do this step at home or with shore power. That I've still got to work on. Another video for that too! Thanks Todd!
@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks for all those details. I'm testing a similar setup that uses a LiFePO4 12v 100ah battery connected to the GZ lithium car charger to act as simple DC to DC charger to supply 120w (10a) into the Yeti. Last night, I drained the Yeti to 50% and charged it back from the battery to 100% no problem. Just drained the Yeti to 0% this morning and will do a full cycle to see if I can charge it to 100% and see how much energy is left over in the battery. Thinking of getting a second car charger so I can charge the Yeti at 240w by plugging into two car outlets when on the move. You could probably do a 3rd if you car had more separately fused outlets which would be roughly the same as your setup with no wiring (tho thinner gauge wire). I have the exact same Victron charger for the LiFePO4 battery - it's great. I, just wish someone made a charger like that that allowed you could swap the AC for a DC connection.
@@todd.parker Very interesting! Let us know how that 0% to 100% charge works from the LiFePO4. A standalone lithium battery of 100ah can be expensive! Using the GZ car charger connected to a Lithium battery is a great idea! What brand/model of 100ah LiFePO4 did you end up buying?
@@sprinterdiscovery I bought this one based on Will Proust's review. I got it with a coupon for $712 and got a $50 refund because it had a defective low temp cutoff which isn't important to me. $675 all in for 1,280wh seemed worth the leap. I've been trickle charging the Yeti all day at 120w from the car charger and it's been working great. I wish the cables were heavier duty but I have to assume they tested that for safety. Kind of a super simple DC to DC charger setup but only for higher voltage batteries like lithium www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4Z8FML/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Yes! Please make a video on the DIY step up converter.
Hey Todd, didn’t realize I watched your video back around the same time I bought this 12V charger when you did. Charged our Yeti 1400 on the go on 2 trips, first with our Odyssey minivan, charging mainly a 12V 50QT cooler, cooking with induction cooker & rice cooker, and used the Boulder 100 briefcase panels to charge when stationary. Worked out well. Then used it in our class B ‘95 Roadtrek, and was a nice complement to the built in propane cooktop/heater and also charged the yeti when in motion. Now thinking of adding a set of those lightweight solar panels you reviewed in the other video, and can really charge quickly if I can get an input of 120W on average. Take care!
Thanks for another Well Done video Todd. You really help clarify some tech issues.
You can leave it plugged in all the time. I'd won't pull power when the plug drops below running voltage
I would like to see the step-up converter! See if you can get temperatures of both. Thanks
A great invention and Solution for pesky bright green light = Black Electric ⚡️ tape. Great video.
VERY HELPFUL! Thank you!
I just was so impressed ,I would like to know if that version would be to much draw from the stock ports of vehicles causing a fire hazard.if so I would run a new outlet larger gauge wiring.please make a DYI on your complete build and setup .I bought the unit from Costco and finding a safe and better and faster way then stock charging would really help.Thanks again Del
You can check your manual to see what your vehicle’s 12v ports are rated for and use the 5/10a switch to keep it safe. If you want to charge faster at home, you can attach multiple wall chargers: ruclips.net/video/uXKUGWiETMM/видео.html and in the next few months Goal Zero is coming out with a 300 wall charger.
Love all the goal zero videos I think you should definitely do the DIY 12V charger. I wonder if you could use 2 or the goal zero car chargers at the same time one in the regular input and one in the mppt. Thanks for the vids
Thanks Ryan. I got clarification on that very issue a few days ago and, yes, the PWM and MPPT modules are separate and each can handle 360 watts for at total of 720 watts (or even a bit more if it doesn't get too hot). The 8mm charging ports can accept up to 10A (120W max) so you should be fine plugging a car charger into a port on the PWM and a second on the MPPT. You can also use the 8mm to Anderson Power Pole adaptor to sum these into one connector and plug that into that port because it can handle up to 360 watts. The main consideration is how much power you can pull from your vehicle, that might put a strain on your battery or alternator.
Thanks todd for making such a quick video on this new product by goal zero. Seeing it in action really helps me to decide how many I want to purchase.
Hello
I currently run two of these chargers and get 200-270 watts when the car is running for my 1000 core. Would it be okay to add two 100 watt solar panels to my system? Or would that blow it up because that would be over the 300 watt input limit?
I think you’d be ok to “overpanel” like this. I attached 1,000w of panels into my Yeti 1000 but split between the MPPT module and PWM ports
I too ordered one as soon as they hit the GZ site. Installed it last week in my Jeep to power the same Yeti1000 you have. So far so good. My Jeep battery gives me 125 watts on the 10A setting! I've got the unit mounted under my seat via a 12v aftermarket plug wired in to a dash switch so I can flip it on whenever a charge is needed. I'll keep an eye on the heat production as that seems to be a thought of everyone.
Thanks for sharing, good to know it’s been putting out a lot of power and staying cool.
Putting out a lot of power, yes. I don't know if it's staying cool, but now it's on my mind to keep an eye on!
I’ve got a 2012 jk. When the engine is running, the input fluctuates from 0 to 14 and 115 and then repeats that cycle over and over. Do you get the same thing? So strange. It’s charging for sure but the fluctuations freak me out. Thanks!
Some questions.... Is that Yeti LifePO4? Any smart way to charge both Solar and car charger?
I am considering the Goal Zero... but I have 100 W 12v volt solar panel on my van roof and my cigarette lighter is only on while engine is driving, any way to use both "intelligently" without having to manually switch?
The Yetis uses a Li-ion NMC which isn’t quite as rugged as FiFePO4 in terms of cycles but is still a solid choice. You can connect both a 12v car charger and solar panel into the Yeti at the same time and charge it with whatever is available, no need to switch.
The smaller bump is a ferrite bead. This thing puts out bad RF and the bead slows it or stops it. The real question is will the car cig wiring support 10A with out melting or causing a fire. To check the fuse squeeze the 2 bulging metal portions and turn the serrated tip end CC.
Thanks for the info, seems I didn’t realize I needed to squeeze the conductors. I agree re:wiring, things can get hot depending on the wire gauge. It’s smart they added that 5/10 amp switch.
Got a GZ coupon on GZ website for $10 if you do a survey. Small consolation, $40 for the charger, $12 for shipping. Will wait and bundle.
Did I see somewhere that the GZ car charger has a feature to stop charging when the *input* voltage drops below a certain value? I.e. to stop it from totally flattening (and possibly damaging) the vehicle's main battery that is supplying the charging power. In a vehicle this would only be required when the engine is not running. If the engine is off, or any situation where a standalone battery is supplying the charging power, it would be a useful feature.
Yes the car charger has a low-voltage cut off so it will shut off if the engine is off usually and will turn off if the battery is getting too low. I should probably measure exactly what the voltage cut off is but it definitely is pretty conservative
Can I use this charger to charge a 2nd Yeti 1000 using the 12V car charger port on one, into the MPPT port on the other? (Plan: solar charging Yeti 1, when nearly fully charged, charge Yeti 2 from Yeti 1 while Yeti 1 continues to charge from solar.)
Hi Todd, Have you ever had a problem with the goalzero car charger? My first goal zero car charger just stop (no light at the cable and no input reading) during my car camping trip. I though it burned out so I bought a second one now it has the same problem. I tried to connect to all different car cigarette input in my car and also into my battery charger none of them work. The car cigarettes work fine with other chargers.
Ha, just ran into that this weekend. Pretty sure the fuse needs to be replaced. Unscrew the tip of the cigarette plug and you’ll find a 15a 250v 1.25”’ (30mm) glass fuse. Swap in a new one and you’re golden.
I have problems after 1 month usage. Worked fine,then the blue lamp on 500x remained constantly blue and not loading. Soft reset helped a few times. But after a few days,even if blinking blue,does not charge anymore : ) I've seen all color combinations swap yellow/green on car charger,red as ok fault if the car delivers not enough power... but currently I assume the loader within yeti is broken, as happened last year with a slightly too strong solar panel 22 little plus voltage..
I was disappointed with the lithium 12 volt car charger. I installed an always on 12 volt adapter in the back of my truck. However the car charger only works when the truck is running with the alternator providing enough power for the charger to work.
What happen with longer usage with the step up charger in turns of longer usage with heat?
Thx you.
I’ve had this hooked up for a few days at a stretch in the summer at 10 amp and it gets warm but not too hot. Obviously I wasn’t running the car continuously but it seems solid so far
What’s the difference between this $39 cable and the link expansion module $399?
This cable is just a way to charge your Yeti from the 12v socket on your car. Think of it as equivalent to the wall charger but for your car. The link module is designed to let you both connect the Yeti directly to your alternator for even faster car charging and let you connect to expansion batteries (Tank)
10amps won’t stress your car. Dc dc chargers typically take 20 amps and you can go even higher with proper dual battery setups. Great review
I have a question. Is this charger all I need? I'm confused as to the difference between using this and the "link module", which is significantly more expensive. I've seen talk on the internet about the link module being used to integrate the power station with a car's electrical system, but if I go to the website it says the link module is for connecting to batteries in your home. What do I need?
For basic car charging, this all you need and will charge at 120w. I’m going to go with 2 plugged into different outlets. If you want to charge super fast or have a bigger yeti, you can buy the link module and wire it to your alternator to charge at ~700w but it’s a lot of money.
@@todd.parker , Okay, but the confusing part is that on the Goal Zero website product page for the link module, it doesn't mention anything about vehicle use. It appears to be for home use.
@@davidbliss8352 on the page there is a mention of car link mode but not much info. They have an official video that covers it.
For some reason my gx460 won’t work with GZ car charger at 10 amp. It starts making very faint noise and the wattage drops to 20. 5 amp works great though. My cigarette lighter is 120 watt which should handle 10amp. Any idea? It works great on my other vehicles
I think 10amp is right on the edge for a lot of cars, that's why they have the 5A/10A switch. Might be stuck at 5A there.
Yeah mine is charging only 15 watts ... it takes forever ..to charge could it be a defective unit ?
Did you figure out the reason? Mine only works at 5 amp and at 10 amp it drops to 20 watt.
Can you use that 4 to 1 Anderson cable to parallel 2 of these in your car? getting 240watt input etc. Or do you think it would be too much strain on the car?
I think that would probably strain the alternator but it depends on your vehicle
Update:,I’ve been considering adding a second myself. I did some research and a car alternator should be ok with a 20a draw if running
Great video, thanks ! Unfortunately I only get to use the 5a on my brand new VW Caddy Maxi, when I turn on the 10a it drops to 25 Watts. Do you know how to overcome this ? I have a Yeti 1400 and it charges sooooo slowly
I think some cars struggle to output that much power. They sell the tank module that will hook up to your alternator and charge it super fast but it’s $$$
Do this charger stay charging if the car is off? Or will it turn off if the car battery get low in voltage? Thanks
It auto shuts off with low voltage so it won’t kill your battery
Thank you I was not sure about that
Any chance this charge the poweroak sb150? I think it’s based on a ieti.
Seems it would, yes
When I hook it to my Sube Outback, the light turns red while ideling like in a parking lot. I have to be driving to get the adapter to turn on. Same if it is switched to 5 amp or 10. Anyone else have this issue? I might just bite the bullet and go to the link. Was hoping for a quick EZ solution without running the cable all the way back. For that matter, anyone hook up a link?
ScotTheGr8 I think I’m having this issue. But at the Yeti input port (I wasn’t watching the light on the adapter though). Definitely goes on and off when idling, not sure when I’m driving. I’ll have to move the battery to my passenger seat to see if it’s charging.
hello, I don't know much about cars or electricity, but my question is: in order to fast charge my goal zero 1400, if I get 3 of those and use a 3to1 cigaret adapter...would it charge at 4500 watts?
No, that wouldn’t work. The cigarette 12v plugs are fused at 20amp max x 12v = 240w. You can charge at a higher rate with the link module and connecting to your alternator.
Hi Todd, I’ve watched your videos over and over. I save them for going back to reference. Thank you. I plugged my car charger in the PWM 8 mil and got only has high as 54 W on the 5 amp with 74W showing as output. I changed to 10 amp on the charger and watts dropped to 30 and below with 0 output on yeti. WTH is happening. Could it be the PWM?
It's Goal Zero's janky car adapters. After I posted this video, the more I used this technique, I found that the 10A setting on the car charger cables frequently will drop down like you experienced, no matter what battery I tested. I think it's just a bad design that. I've been using the 5A setting which seems reliable but you'r limited to 60w. Every other company now limits car charging to 8A (100w) which is a happy medium that all cars and 12v batteries can handle safely.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
Great info...subbed!
Thanks!
Does the step up converter work? I'd love to see a video on it.
I should make a video, I have one sitting here
@@todd.parker I made one and it failed. It outputs 18.99v @ 5.4a, but Yeti doesn't recognize it. Blue light doesn't come on.
Dean Edwards huh, that should work. I’ll see if I have better luck
Has anybody had any issues when using the Yeti chargers?? My 12v yeti car charger was working for the first 20hrs of our trip(though did noticed the plastic box was hot). 1st cigarette lighter socket blew so plugged it to the other outlet which it also burned-out in another couple of hours. Checked the cigarette lighter fuses in my Chevy express 3500 and they are ok..
The 10A setting is pretty borderline. I use the 5A setting for safety. Most other brands limit it 100w, so I think 10A/120W is a bit too much for many vehicles
@@todd.parker Come to think I was charging at 10A... I will do a follow up when I get the cigarette outlets changed and I'll use the 5A setting.. Thanks for your feedback. Keep on with your great videos!!
Just curious... Does the charger have a low voltage cut off? I have an always on/live 12v port in the back of the truck I'd like to use. Will this charger continue to draw power even when the vehecle is off or does it only draw when it's over 13v? Wondering if I need to run a relay to make it a switched power instead.
I think it stops drawing power when the battery gets too low.
can this unit charge the original Yeti 400 (non-Lithium)?
GZ sells a car charger for the lead acid Yetis that is cheaper.
16 AWG the wire is labeled
Put a small piece of standard Masking Tape over the Green L.E.D. You'll still be able to see it working and won't hurt your eyes to look at it.
When I get my vision back, I will!
Do you get the same input using the PWN? thanks
Do you mean vs. the MPPT?
@@gabrielzazueta2218 this is my experience with the 10a vs 5a too. It seems counterintuitive, but the PWN thing makes sense.
I normally use the 5A setting connectors to PWM because it’s steady voltage
Suggest you place a piece of tape on the light.
Hi Todd, Are you going to review the YETI LINK CAR CHARGING KIT in the near future?
I don’t think I’m going to get the link, sorry.
@@todd.parker Enjoyed the video. Why would someone pay hundreds of dollars more for the car charging kit? What's the benefit over this 12v plug option?
Justin Short if you have a Link and alternator cable, it apparently charges a lot faster than 10A but I don’t know the specs
@@todd.parker and @Justin, according to the spec is is a LOT faster. 65A in theory although in practice this will depend on which model Yeti you are inputting into and how much is being generated at the alternator. Also if you putting solar into the Yeti the unit reaches 100% any solar charging will then be directed into your car battery. So it looks cool but it's really damn expensive and you also have to install it including getting the plug of the EC8 cable through the firewall in your car somehow.
@@AdrianChoPhotography Yeah, the alternator charging looks awesome but it seems best for 3000+ Yetis or I'd be worried about charging a battery too fast (high C rate) and shortening it's life. Also, the cost is crazy, should be baked in imo.
Please do the diy
Will do, thanks Gabriel.
I bought this 2 months ago but I can use the 10amp, it blows the fuse in my van.
Yeah, I had that happen to me. The 10amp settings seems to make it run hot, make high frequency noise, and can pop a 15a fuse. I usually use the 5a setting unless I’m in a hurry
thanks for this
You're welcome. Working on a follow up video on this soon...
Thanks for the review! After I saw it I got mine from GZ. But didn't see input higher than 20 Watts on my Yeti 1000 (92% charged). Most of the time it was 10 w or less. Defective unit? And yes, shipping was like 1/3 of the price.
Try draining your Yeti to 50-60% then try again. If your Yeti is almost full, it reduces the charge input though 10w seems very low.
@@todd.parker On the last trip the battery drained to 72% (because only this charger was connected and it couldn't replenish the battery fast enough). Same numbers for the input - fluctuates between 10-20%. My solar panel was outputting 70 Watts on the same battery with the same conditions.
Sergey Shumko that odd, you mean 10-20 watts of input when charging the Yeti with this 12v charger? If so, that’s low. You can see I was getting 60-120 watts depending on the switch setting.
Will this work on the Yeti 400 Lithium? Thanks
I can't find one anywhere. Can anyone help.
www.goalzero.com/shop/yeti-accessories/yeti-12v-car-charging-cable/
How about a 12v solution for us Yeti 1250 users... not everyone does Lithium... yet. 👍🏽
You’re in luck, you can just use this cable on the 1250 - www.goalzero.com/shop/cords-adapters/8mm-12v-car-charger/
It’s a little bit overpriced and they charge $10 for shipping. I’d like also to see the diy comparison. Thanks for the honest review.
My new step up power supply just arrived on the slow boat from China so I'll work on the DIY version soon. In my earlier version of the DIY, I kept blowing fuses because the converter was pulling a lot of power to get started. The advantages of the GZ cable is it seems to have a soft start to avoid that and offers the 5/10amp switch which may seem like small things but can help keep this from pulling too much power. I agree that the shipping was the real killer for me, that's a lot for a tiny cable.
Goal Zero....You are paying for the NAME, not the device.
Maybe just a piece of tape over the led.
if i purchase this where i live, on ebay cost 224 dollars =(
Sorry to hear that. Can you buy their new fast charger for a better price?
It is better to buy 100-300watt inverter to charge yeti 1000 on a car.
Goal Zero is recommending you use a Link module to direct connect to your alternator to get the fastest and most efficient charge times. An inverter uses a lot of power to convert from DC to AC and back to DC.
@@todd.parker Yep, but it costs $475. Its a joke.
I agree, it’s not a good option
Hi Todd - I finally made a van tour video which includes a demonstration of the Victron Orion Isolated 12/24-15 DC-DC charger which charges my Goal Zero Yeti 1000 while I drive. No need for the Yeti link, and it's cheaper too. Hope this helps you and your viewers! Thanks! ruclips.net/video/RpZ0wcBm6Wg/видео.html
Really great setup and video! That looks really slick. So is that connected directly to your battery? You mentioned it gets hot, any safety concerns?
@@todd.parker thanks!! Yes, it's directly connected to my car battery using 8 gauge stranded wire, and from the Victron Orion to the Yeti 1000 it's using 10 gauge stranded wire. No safety concerns but it definitely needs ventilation. I'm thinking about putting a connector on between the car battery and the Orion. I can then get a normal lead acid 12v battery then put a similar connector on that. When I'm camping, just disconnect the car to Orion battery and hook it up to the standalone battery. I'll need to adjust the Victron Orion settings to stop at 12.05 volts, which should be roughly 50% SoC. This would allow me to use the Yeti 100p for a longer time while camping. When go back to driving again, I'll just reconnect everything back to normal. To charge that extra battery, I can use the Victron BlueSmart IP65 battery charger hooked up to the Yeti 1000. As the Yeti charges from the car, the Yeti will provide power to the Victron BlueSmart and then charge the extra battery. Or do this step at home or with shore power. That I've still got to work on. Another video for that too! Thanks Todd!
@@sprinterdiscovery Thanks for all those details. I'm testing a similar setup that uses a LiFePO4 12v 100ah battery connected to the GZ lithium car charger to act as simple DC to DC charger to supply 120w (10a) into the Yeti. Last night, I drained the Yeti to 50% and charged it back from the battery to 100% no problem. Just drained the Yeti to 0% this morning and will do a full cycle to see if I can charge it to 100% and see how much energy is left over in the battery. Thinking of getting a second car charger so I can charge the Yeti at 240w by plugging into two car outlets when on the move. You could probably do a 3rd if you car had more separately fused outlets which would be roughly the same as your setup with no wiring (tho thinner gauge wire). I have the exact same Victron charger for the LiFePO4 battery - it's great. I, just wish someone made a charger like that that allowed you could swap the AC for a DC connection.
@@todd.parker Very interesting! Let us know how that 0% to 100% charge works from the LiFePO4. A standalone lithium battery of 100ah can be expensive! Using the GZ car charger connected to a Lithium battery is a great idea! What brand/model of 100ah LiFePO4 did you end up buying?
@@sprinterdiscovery I bought this one based on Will Proust's review. I got it with a coupon for $712 and got a $50 refund because it had a defective low temp cutoff which isn't important to me. $675 all in for 1,280wh seemed worth the leap. I've been trickle charging the Yeti all day at 120w from the car charger and it's been working great. I wish the cables were heavier duty but I have to assume they tested that for safety. Kind of a super simple DC to DC charger setup but only for higher voltage batteries like lithium www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X4Z8FML/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Can you use it on the regular yeti 400?
GZ sells a cheaper one for non-lithium units