What plywood sanding tips do you have? I have burnt through the veneer on many pieces of plywood, if you've sanded plywood, I'm sure you have at somepoint as well. These tips have helped me improve the quality of my sanding without burning through the veneer. All items shown in the video are available from @toolstoday and are all listed below. Festool ETS 150 Sander - toolstoday.com/festool-576079-random-orbital-sander-ets-150-3-eq-plus.html Festool CT26 Dust Extractor - toolstoday.com/festool-577083-dust-extractor-ct-26-e-hepa-cleantec.html Fein Turbo 1 Vacuum - toolstoday.com/fein-92035236090-turbo-i-wet-dry-dust-extractor-vacuum.html
I have a couple of questions. I have started making cornhole boards. I am a retired tool and die maker and that is the mentality I bring to cornhole board making. I have watched lots of videos on how to finish the plywood and I am still confused about the best methods. My goal: to make beautiful cornhole board sets from premium cabinet-grade plywood. I am not interested in making 300-dollar boards. I will charge about $1200. Because of the time and attention to detail being a toolmaker requires, I will apply those techniques to my boards. For instance, instead of hand drilling the holes for the legs and using galvanized carriage bolts, I will make a jig for my milling machine, and then using a pilot drill and an end mill I will cut a precise hole for the legs. I will use 3/8 SS socket head cap screws inside a SS 1/2" bushing with a self-locking nut to hold the legs. My problem is I want to keep the beauty of walnut, cherry, white oak, and other premium plywood without sacrificing the character and individuality of those woods. So far, I have not completed any sets as the finishing will be the biggest problem. I have carefully sanded my walnut plywood with 1500 grit and loved the slickness and feeling such finishing imparts. But when I apply the water-based polyurethane, even after sanding with 1500 grit, the finish is rough and uneven. I have used General Finishes Flat poly because that was recommended in one of the "best poly for cornhole" videos. How many coats will it take to have the protection of the poly and will the poly cover the natural character that I want to keep. For my first two boards, (everything is prototype, not in production yet), I sanded to 1200 and then applied 3 coats of poly. The walnut was not enhanced and did nothing for the appearance after sanding to 1200. For the next boards I worked on, I applied a coat of BLO and let it dry for a week before sanding to 2000 and then applying the poly. The character of the walnut was retained but I have not been able to achieve the touch of highly polished walnut as the poly is uneven and dull. How many coats of poly should I use before I can get the desired slickness. Or should I use an oil-based poly? I applied the BLO because the poly did not show off the figure in either the walnut or white oak plywood. The difference between the BLO and only the poly is striking. Is there something else I should use? Thanks for answering my questions, Sam. maker: Gobblers Knob Cornhole, Cutting and Charcuterie boards, Butcher Blocks, and Adirondack Chairs.
Very cool. A water based finish has multiple issues. First, it raises the grain of the wood when applied, being water based making the finish feel rough. You can mitigate this by popping the grain with water before the final sanding to stand it up then sand it down, this will help, but the grain will still pop some when doing water based finishes. Second, it does absolutely nothing for the natural look of the wood and generally appears pretty dull. If you're trying to show off the natural beauty of the wood, I would go oil based for sure. You could apply 2-3 coats of a oil based polyurethane and do some hand rubbing techniques to get the shine. You might also look into a shellac finish as you can buff those out for a beautiful look. I hope that helps.
BLO before doing a water based finish will give you the look of an oil based finish by popping the grain, just takes forever to cure fully so you can put the water based poly on. I would just stick with a shellac or oil based poly finish to get the oiled look you want and protection. Another finish you might look up is called Waterlox, it looks great and provides great protection.
@@ToolsToday Thanks, I bought some Minwax oil based poly and mineral spirits today. I have run into a lot of problems because I have no experience in working with wood. I had already treated 4 pieces of walnut and 2 pieces of white oak with BLO and now I realize I will have to spend a lot of time getting them right. I have 2 pieces of white oak that I will use only the oil based poly on. Thanks for your help.
![Festool ETS EC 150/5 First Impressions [video 563]](/img/1.gif)
What plywood sanding tips do you have?
I have burnt through the veneer on many pieces of plywood, if you've sanded plywood, I'm sure you have at somepoint as well. These tips have helped me improve the quality of my sanding without burning through the veneer. All items shown in the video are available from @toolstoday and are all listed below.
Festool ETS 150 Sander - toolstoday.com/festool-576079-random-orbital-sander-ets-150-3-eq-plus.html
Festool CT26 Dust Extractor - toolstoday.com/festool-577083-dust-extractor-ct-26-e-hepa-cleantec.html
Fein Turbo 1 Vacuum - toolstoday.com/fein-92035236090-turbo-i-wet-dry-dust-extractor-vacuum.html
I have a couple of questions. I have started making cornhole boards. I am a retired tool and die maker and that is the mentality I bring to cornhole board making. I have watched lots of videos on how to finish the plywood and I am still confused about the best methods. My goal: to make beautiful cornhole board sets from premium cabinet-grade plywood. I am not interested in making 300-dollar boards. I will charge about $1200. Because of the time and attention to detail being a toolmaker requires, I will apply those techniques to my boards. For instance, instead of hand drilling the holes for the legs and using galvanized carriage bolts, I will make a jig for my milling machine, and then using a pilot drill and an end mill I will cut a precise hole for the legs. I will use 3/8 SS socket head cap screws inside a SS 1/2" bushing with a self-locking nut to hold the legs.
My problem is I want to keep the beauty of walnut, cherry, white oak, and other premium plywood without sacrificing the character and individuality of those woods. So far, I have not completed any sets as the finishing will be the biggest problem. I have carefully sanded my walnut plywood with 1500 grit and loved the slickness and feeling such finishing imparts. But when I apply the water-based polyurethane, even after sanding with 1500 grit, the finish is rough and uneven. I have used General Finishes Flat poly because that was recommended in one of the "best poly for cornhole" videos. How many coats will it take to have the protection of the poly and will the poly cover the natural character that I want to keep.
For my first two boards, (everything is prototype, not in production yet), I sanded to 1200 and then applied 3 coats of poly. The walnut was not enhanced and did nothing for the appearance after sanding to 1200. For the next boards I worked on, I applied a coat of BLO and let it dry for a week before sanding to 2000 and then applying the poly. The character of the walnut was retained but I have not been able to achieve the touch of highly polished walnut as the poly is uneven and dull.
How many coats of poly should I use before I can get the desired slickness. Or should I use an oil-based poly? I applied the BLO because the poly did not show off the figure in either the walnut or white oak plywood. The difference between the BLO and only the poly is striking. Is there something else I should use?
Thanks for answering my questions, Sam.
maker: Gobblers Knob Cornhole, Cutting and Charcuterie boards, Butcher Blocks, and Adirondack Chairs.
Very cool. A water based finish has multiple issues. First, it raises the grain of the wood when applied, being water based making the finish feel rough. You can mitigate this by popping the grain with water before the final sanding to stand it up then sand it down, this will help, but the grain will still pop some when doing water based finishes. Second, it does absolutely nothing for the natural look of the wood and generally appears pretty dull. If you're trying to show off the natural beauty of the wood, I would go oil based for sure. You could apply 2-3 coats of a oil based polyurethane and do some hand rubbing techniques to get the shine. You might also look into a shellac finish as you can buff those out for a beautiful look. I hope that helps.
@@ToolsToday Thanks for the quick reply. Does it matter if I use boiled linseed oil?
BLO before doing a water based finish will give you the look of an oil based finish by popping the grain, just takes forever to cure fully so you can put the water based poly on. I would just stick with a shellac or oil based poly finish to get the oiled look you want and protection. Another finish you might look up is called Waterlox, it looks great and provides great protection.
@@ToolsToday Thanks, I bought some Minwax oil based poly and mineral spirits today. I have run into a lot of problems because I have no experience in working with wood. I had already treated 4 pieces of walnut and 2 pieces of white oak with BLO and now I realize I will have to spend a lot of time getting them right. I have 2 pieces of white oak that I will use only the oil based poly on. Thanks for your help.
what type of file do you use for your cnc I have to make a part with 2 different heights what file should I use?
Great tips!