My crossfires dash lit up like a Christmas tree this morning upon startup and no working speedo and I remembered reading about the rcm many years ago. Thanks to your video, I confidently removed the rcm , checked the relays and re soldered the lower joints and viola! 30 minutes well spent thanks to you! Cheers! 🍻
Just have to say...I have an '02 SLK320 and this was the best video I have ever found on fixing the "K40" relay problem. Took about 20 minutes and finally cleared the dreaded P0410 code. Great Job!!!
Excellent video, my son's crossfire wasn't getting power to fuel pump, checked the relay and same problem you had , cleaned it up and good as new , thanks for being so thorough 2 thumbs up
Your comment made my week. Thank you, good day to you. Please consider subscribing if you haven't, I have a dash tear down vid coming, a center console reimagined video, and "how to finally get that engine light turned off" video on the way. All shot as well and detailed as this. Again, thanks for your support.
Thank you oh so very much! I've been touring garages for the last year with a recurring secondary air pump error. A bit of soldering and restoring the relay did the trick! Fantastic! I didn't use my wife's sewing scissors, though. But your secret is safe with me.
Very Good Video! I like how meticulously the connections are labeled. And removing the negative battery cable before starting is always a cautious and prudent thing to do. The detailed explanations of the relay operation is helpful. The detailed views of solder joint diagnosis and repair is thorough. I may actually now be able to attempt to do this myself. Thank you!
I think you can do this. I haven't actually had to replace the relay yet, but I have resoldered the joints and cleaned up the relays with probably slightly above average soldering skills (I took an electronics class in high school 30 years ago, and make modifications to RC cars and 3d printers today, I'm not out of practice but not a skilled Laborer in this field by any means).
Well that was easy. I have a low milage (19k) 2004 coupe and been happily driving the last three years trouble free, then today, ignition on, but no crank, and after a minute the cooling fan ran up to full speed. A known symptom of the solder joints being bad. I had a fair idea of how to resolve this, but your tutorial made it so clear. Took me literally half hour from lifting the bonnet to starting it up. I just had the three sets of pins bad, everything else was tidy and clean. Thanks for taking the time to make your video
What a great tutorial! I recently discover the Crossfire. Being a older car I’ve learned the RCM is a must to inspect. When I finally bring one home I now have confidence to inspect, clean, and repair the RCM as needed. Thanks!!
Hey, thanks for the kind words, it makes my week when one of my videos helps a fellow cf owner. Thanks for watching and commenting. It does make this experience even more worthwhile when somebody appreciates your contribution!!
Yep, next up is ignition pin. If your steering wheel or key are ever sticky when trying to start the car, or remove the key, you may have to do the repair I have coming up in an upcoming new release. Thanks for watching.
I watched the video three times. Then on-vehicle tested the air pump with a continuity tester then directed wired to battery to make sure the air pump worked. It did. Then I followed your video to the letter, but I labeled the 5 wire connections with "Whiteout" dots, one for each number. Works great. I did your whole procedure and shut the hood in 45 minutes. Thank you so much for your wonderful video and sharing the depth of your knowledge. DD
Thanks for watching. I have a fairly high mileage Crossfire now, it might benefit you to subscribe for my future videos. I really like to hear from people that my videos help, so thanks for your note, it made my day.
I MUST say KUDOS to you for a video well done! I did this process a few years back "blind" if you will. Wasn't quite sure what I was doing but I saw the black residue. I then used sandpaper but I now know Emory cloth is the better product to use thanks to you. Your video illustration and explanation was clear and concise. I need to revisit this part again and check the solder connections of the RCM. I never re-soldered them as the no crank no start has returned.
@@glencouls Thanks for highlighting and replying. Figured I'd update you on the soldering job. Things went well and the vehicle started! I also noticed a little carbon build up on the air pump relay contact so I cleaned that as well. Safe and happy driving 👍👌😎
@@tooshort4892 I have a 10amp fuse that keeps blowing on start up, once I shut car down it won't start and I must change fuse again to start it... I'll do as was done in video but anyone has any idea why fuse keeps blowing or what this 10amp fuse is for ?
@@hajileserpud9539 Is this fuse in the fuse block or an added in line fuse? Make sure the fuse is the correct rating for the slot it is in. Outside of this or what the video suggests I'm afraid I really don't know much more.
@@tooshort4892 hello... It's on my K40 fuse block on my 2001 Mercedes E320 4matic... I see two 15 amp fuses in this video for the Chrysler Crossfire but on my K40 Mercedes block it has two 10 amps... 1 keeps blowing on start up
Great video, straight forward presentation. I too have a 2004 Chrysler Crossfire, and love it! I am always getting compliments about the car. BTW, I am purchasing a second Crossfire too.
Great info, definitely worth replacing the relays I believe. I had the N65 module, intercooler control relay specifically, go on my SLK32. I just jumped around it for now but I will be sure to clean up and inspect the used replacement I just ordered.
Ha, there's so many people that hate my music choices, thanks for watching and understanding its just supposed to be background filler to help with pacing. I'm not competing for a Grammy over here!
Welcome Brently, thanks for checking out my RUclips page. I love to drive my Crossfire, upgrade it, troubleshoot issues and share them here. If you haven't already please consider subscribing, I have a few videos in the works, security pin removal for stuck steering column and ignition switch, floor mats, front end, shock and stabilizer install, all coming soon. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Bought my mom a Crossfire last year. 04 Crossfire I believe. Got it used, drove beautifully for a couple weeks until we had to replace the glass due to a rock smashing the back windshield. When they replaced it they cut and rigged some wires back there. Even since the car won’t start. Intermittent battery drain. I’m just thinking of junking it but she loves the car.
This is pretty far out of my view to be able to answer. I would doublecheck the rewiring they did in the back make sure nothing got crossed third brake light and rear defrost are back there. If the car won't start, try reseting the battery (disconnect negative cable, then reseat it) then try to restart car. If the car starts for like two seconds then shuts off, it's the SKREEM immobilizer. Let me know if this is the diagnosis, as I have a couple of options none of them good, but you may not have to junk the car.
@@glencouls do you really have solution for the SKREEM?? Only alternative that people have I think is to buy it from NEEDWINGS but I dont know if they have it available. Any idea to resolve the issue?
@@armonianumerica5830 The Skreem unit is the defacto shutoff or last line of defense on what the car sees as a theft attempt. You'll need a new one if it's been triggered and detonated/executed. The only other thing I can think of is entire replacement of the engine, ecu, ignition, etc and drop in something awesome like a V8. There are guys that have done that, probably not road legal.
@@glencouls I had no idea you replied to this until now and it probably could’ve been helpful. We took it to a couple Electrical/wiring places who said none of the wiring seemed problematic and their best guess was the aftermarket touchscreen radio. She bought a battery switch to turn the battery off when she’s done driving it for the day. Then turns it back on when she wants to drive it. That way the battery can’t drain overnight. It’s still working for her to this day and I’m so glad we didn’t scrap it
4:50... LOL Your secret is safe with us. Well hopefully it is, lots of Llamas out here. Thanks for making this video. I may need it. We still have our 2005 Crossfire Roadster Convertible. It's in excellent condition with only 49k miles and has been garage kept it's entire life. Only now are we starting to see some of the issues that older, harder run cars have already experienced. The alarm started going off randomly in the past few weeks. We'll be in the house and out of no where we hear the siren from the alarm and we check it but nothing is wrong. It's gotten to the point where I have had to pretty much stop leaving it locked/armed. I would have taken it into the shop already but our '19 Camry is in there as we speak. Great car BTW! Unfortunately we hit the curb avoiding a deer. Said Deer now owes me my $500 deductible... Good luck finding that a$$hole. This morning I wake up to the same thing; blaring sirens in the garage. I forgot and must have locked it. Only this time the sirens sounded like a cricket dying over a PA system. Very pleasant to say the least. Especially when it's screaming in your ear as you're trying to disconnect the battery cable. In my little bit of research I've learned I should first check all my sensors and relays especially on the doors, and latches for the glove boxes. If that does not solve the problem I will remove the RCM... I really hope when I go out there in 30 mins with a Torx set that I find a lose switch somewhere and it's a simple fix. This car is in excellent condition. I also saw some info on the alarm module having it's own batteries and they could be bad or have leaked and destroyed the circuit board. That's a possibility too since the siren sounded so bad.. I'm just going to start checking things off. It's hot as hell outside too. Which me luck plz!
great video, very informative. I'd like to know the possible reason why a relay goes bad like the one in your video. Was it because the air pump was bad and never closed the relay, or age/wear caused the relay to fail? it's also interesting there is no dust cover on the relays. Perhaps because they are already enclosed in a plastic casing around the whole RCM?
The manufacturer did NOT use enough solder at the joint, defect, or design flaw. Usually goes bad well after 36000 miles, all of them are secodary fratures not safety related so no recall.
I hand't watched this video in forever. I also think in order to shrink the size of the RCM they are using Relays and springs that are too small for the voltage coming through. Obviously for the horn and flashers they are pribably fine, but the air pump and fuel pump is likely a different story, these are everyday every moment items. They failed to consider the life of the relays.
You are welcome Don, I have a lot more Mercedes/Crossfire videos I'm working on in the edit bay. If you haven't subscribed, please consider doing so, if you have thanks for your support. It's people like you that inspire me to create. Have a great year!
Great information. Is the symptom of those faulty brown solder joints that it won't crank or just not start? Mine 2004 won't crank but I resoldered those pins since they were also brown but it still won't crank. Battery is relatively new and voltage is good. Thanks!
Hey, awesome video. I just bought an older 2004 Crossfire and it is now experiencing total power loss. No dash lights, no nothing. Any idea what it could be? I'm looking at possible battery problems or battery cables or even the 200 amp fuse as possibilities but I am always open to suggestions and possible fixes. Thanks. And great video on the RCM.
Thanks for the nice words on the video. The Crossfire does some really weird stuff when the battery isn't showing at least 12.8v, if yours is a few years old, or unknown I would start with replacing it. I can't remember if I had dashlights when my CPS crank shaft positioning sensor went out, but I do recall not being able to crank the starter, so the CPS sensor might be a good look. There are two fuse boxes, one under the hood to the right of the engine when standing at front bumper looking into the engine, and one behind a pull panel behind the dash only accessible when drivers door is open. Check all of your fuses, including the ones on the RCM. Don't forget to inspect your RCM relays and solder joints.
@@glencouls wow! That was a fast response. I surfed the internet for others who may have had the same problem as I did and it turned out to be simple corrosion on the neutral cable to the battery. :) Quick and simple and so far free repair. As I just said to my son and will repeat here, when you have a problem with something, so long as the Internet is FREE to use, go do various searches. You're bound to find something that will help you start your own repair process if you are capable of doing it. Beats calling the mechanic only to have to pay a couple hundred on a repair that would have cost you five to fix. And yes, the Crossfire is buggy but so far most of the things that go wrong could be easily remedied, like the RCM solder trick. Once again, thanks for the response and I hope my issue and solution can help others out too.
a relay went bad on my RCM, not the joint. do you have a source or part number for the relay? i can solder a new one on. oh nevermind, should have watched the whole video, thanks
Thanks for this detail, good luck with the soldering I'm sure you will be fine. Was your relay worse than mine in the video? Because this thing I thought was shot, but since I cleaned it up, it's been working well ever since. Thanks for your note. Good luck.
@@glencouls mine is weird, the contacts are fine but it doesn't click shut installed in the car, but it did on the bench. but it shows getting power and ground installed in the car. maybe I need to reflow the joints again before ordering new relays.
That makes it so you can honk your horn when keys not in the ignition. For some crazy ass reason these cars won't let you honk if your keys aren't at least in acc. My feelings are you have to have a horn at all times, what if you see something, need help, need to get somebody's attention whatever ... so I jumped power to the horn relay.
@@glencouls my pump works though. The only thing I suspect is the stop valves might get stuck but or I have faulty o2 sensors. I still can't get to the root of the problem
Hi, I have a 2000 SLK 230 Kompressor that won't start. The mechanic says I probably need a new relay box but he can't do it because he doesn't have the computer equipment to program the new relay box. I would have to have Mercedes "flash" it or "reprogram" it, or a shop that has the equipment, so the relay will pick up the signal from my keyfob. Is this true? Does the whole car have to go to a shop with this equipment, or can I just bring them the relay box and my keyfob?: I may have a friend who knows how to solder try first. The mechanic did mention some people do this. But, for now I have to tow my car back home. I also have to get another keyfob because I recently misplaced one and I have only one now! Thanks.
There are a few issues that can lead to mystery no start. One is the RCM I would start here, the next is the Crank Postioning Sensor (CPS) I have a video on that too, the next is the skreem unit. The RCM is no crank the engine won't turn over the relay stopped, with the CPS you can actually start the car and drive it a short distance then the engine cuts out. With sKreem unit the key fob is no longer paired with car for some reason and the ignition system has borked the skreem unit to save the car from theft. Watch "gone in 60 seconds" it goes into detail about mercedes theft prevention in that Era. This one will let you crank the car, but it doesn't get spark so it just cranks and cranks and cranks. I think your mechanic is sending you away because it's a headache and he doesn't want to deal with it.
Hey man I just had a question and probably a very stupid question, but do I need to do anything with a new rcm that I bought or can I just pop it right in
If it's brand new you are probably fine, I would pop it out at about 12,000 miles of use and inspect those solder points at each oil change, also inspect the relays. If you see any charred residue at the joints or the relays, better break out the solder. If this RCM is just "new to you" but was a working pull, I would 100% get the soldering iron out and at least freshen up the solder pads at the base (circled area in video).
glencouls i have the same issue as you with my air pump. perhaps do you have the number of the relay to buy in EUROPE ? As for Benz ? In your video is only for USA ( buyers ) What are the exact number serie on the relay for the air pump ?thanks a lot!
Had the RCM out and soldered the 3 joints in close proximity near the edge of the board. Symptoms still remain the same, both key fobs don't work to unlock the car, the alarm sounds when mechanically unlocking the door and opening it, place key in ignition and turn to second position, all dash warning and information lights up light up. Turn the key to the Starting position, no change in dash warning and information lights. I have ordered Crank and Cam Hall sensors, just because every where I read said to do this anyway to keep spare. Then moved straight to the RCM as the next place. Would the symptoms I'm getting benefit from re flowing all the solder joints. And what root cause analysis process flow would you go down for this?? Battery -> Negative Terminal strap -> RCM -> BCM -> SKREEM -> ECU Also reading the codes from OBDII with Torque app gives no errors, no pending and no historic. I have only just inherited the car and don't know the history before.
Have you changed the battery? I highly suggest trying a new battery. I had the key fobs stop working and seeing all dash lights and it was the battery. Back fin started doing crazy stuff too. You need the battery up over 12.8V. I doubt it's the SKREEM unit, when my SKREEM went bad it operated like normal, until I tried to start the car then it would crank for a bit on first attempt, then I would have to pull key out again, and put it back in to get it to crank... But would not start.
Hi, i have missfire at 3rd cly in my 97’slk230. I have changed plugs, coils, cables,cps and maf sensor . nothing changed. Service tried all but they say its about ecu. Do you have any suggest about it? Or did you heard about same problem before?
im preparing to buy a 2004 crossfire. it starts and goes slow down the road,but soon as you give it gas it shuts down. He is saying that the traction control relay is doing that to the car,,does this sound correct?
Hmmmm. I read of people pulling the fuse for traction control to disable it, and they claimed to still be driving the car after doing so, so in theory that would be upstream from the relay, and eliminating this diagnosis. I personally think this sounds like a crankpositioning sensor, mine would drive until it warmed up to temperature, then just Stahl and die out.
i have an issue with the fuel pump relay in the RCM/K40. it seems like the resistor beside the fuel pump is open, no connectivity. even if i ground pin E3, no power goes to pin B3, out to the fuel pump. i ‘ve replaced the 10ohm .25% tolerance resistor but after i turned the key on, it got fried open again. can you help me? any idea why the resistor gets fried? it seems to act as a fuse or something. many thanks.
Do you have an after market stereo or components? I would see if you have anything left on draining to battery. I installed a USB port in my center console back in 2015 and eventually ruined two car batteries. You might also check the alternator, sounds like it might be having a hard time keeping up.
Also check the alarm box that's under the windshield cowel under the wipers, exactly under the passenger wiper arm connection. The wiper arms don't need to be removed. Just a bolt on the firewall. The batteries inside go bad and draw the battery dead. After two years of the mystery driving me crazy, and multiple car battery returns, I searched on the crossfire forum. All it is is a noise box, dosent effect the alarm. The lights still flash. Replace with a new one or just leave it out. Hope this helps and is your problem.
Hey! No one in my area works on Crossfires... My alarm has just started to go off for no reason. Is there a fuse or module I can disconnect to stop this? Thanks!
Yeah buddy, hate to say it, nobody works on Crossfires, Chrysler-Dodge has abandoned the model, and AMG-Mercedes looks at it like a ginger haired stepchild refusing to work on it because it doesn't have the star. (Not that I have issues with gingers or stepkids). So, you better get as much knowledge about it as you can, this car will be great to you if you treat her right. You probably have a battery issue with the the alarm unit itself. I would recommend doing a google search, or crossfire forum search for "Chrysler Crossfire alarm cricket on crack" that should walk you through some fixes.
I would also look into your locking mechanism in the rear hatch to make sure its water free. Water will sometimes short the sensor back there and make the alarm head unit believe its triggered.
glencouls, I found a video that explained how to disable the alarm. I pulled the alarm out. We’ll see if everything else works. Thanks for your video and reply!
glencouls, all the video said was that you had to take off the windshield wiper arms along with the cover that the windshield wiper arms go threw. I needed a arm puller to take both arms off. That was the hardest part.
Question, I took a test light to all terminal and I'm not getting power to the fuel pump relay,but I took a match stick and held the relay point closed and the pump worked. What issue do I have.
Look at 1:45 of the video. Re-solder all of the joints (in yellow), use electrical solder not plumbing, and add about a 1/4 inch pull of solder to each pad. I know you may think the solder looks fine but EVERY RCM has this flaw, it's only a mater of time before the solder points fail. I've even seen resoldered RCMs solder points fail AGAIN. Make sure when you are done the solder joint looks like a nice round bubble, not a chunky rock. I've also seen some folks do some cold solder pads and it may work for awhile, but eventually the amps pushing through that socket board, and the clacking closure of the relays will knock that poor solder rock free.
we have the same issue and i’ve traced mine to the resistor to the left of the fuel pump relay. it gets fried open every time. i don’t know why. the resistor seem to act as a safety fuse that gets fried open. any idea what i should do? i’ve replaced the 10ohm with .25%variance resistor twice already and it gets fried once i switch the key to on position. hope someone can help me. this is my 2nd K40 in 10yrs and i don’t wanna keep on buying them. i wanna know why they break so i can fix the source. many thanks.
@@rommeladre it was pretty simple to do. I watched a video on how to wire a relay and found one that the guy explains how to. They are numbers underneath the relay . Power from a current battery, find a fuse that will cut on and off with the key, ground, then what ever you need to power up.
Driver door should be able to be opened with a twist of the key manually. The doors on the Crossfire are pneumatic, air operated but the locking mechanism should be mechanical and pop the door. Let me know how that goes. Please be aware removing the RCM has nothing to do with your door locks NOT working, but removing the negative battery cable does. You need power to run your locks.
Bad news my friend you are locked out if your key does not open the lock. We all have different work flows when working on the car, my car is tucked safely away in the garage and when the hood is up it stays up until I'm done. I rarely lock the car when it's in a locked garage. So, I have not experienced this issue before of not being able to get in to the car I'm working on. I have two ways to fix this. All require that you acquire something additional. The first and in my opinion the easiest, getting a 10mm ratcheting wrench and removing the hood latch N2C.co/hoodlatch . While I have removed the latch before, I have not done it this way so proceed with caution. The second option is to Jack up the car, place some lumber under the tires (which you must aquire) to provide suitable lift and undo the bib to gain access under the hood and hopefully reattach the battery. You can watch this process for undoing the bib in N2C.co/hardway video. Notice the 3/4 plywood on 2x4s that slide under the tires. Do not just start shoving a bunch of crap under the tires, you will need to be operating underneath the car, reaching up to get the negative battery cable attached to the terminal. You have to make sure the car is stable and safe before you get underneath it, proceed with caution. Please be aware I have not done either of these two methods myself and it may require you be agile when troubleshooting this process and figuring out what to do next.
I'm sorry you feel that way. I prefer music over silence, or "shmurp fzzzzz zeeep bluuuuurp" speed up video. The sounds of sped up video are like fingernails on chockboard to me, and silence while golden does not keep an audience awake and engaged.
My crossfires dash lit up like a Christmas tree this morning upon startup and no working speedo and I remembered reading about the rcm many years ago. Thanks to your video, I confidently removed the rcm , checked the relays and re soldered the lower joints and viola! 30 minutes well spent thanks to you! Cheers! 🍻
I am so happy to hear that, thanks for keeping this beautiful car on the road and running safely and reliably. Kudos to you for doing it yourself.
Just have to say...I have an '02 SLK320 and this was the best video I have ever found on fixing the "K40" relay problem. Took about 20 minutes and finally cleared the dreaded P0410 code. Great Job!!!
Thanks for commenting, it makes my day to know my videos help others overcome car issues.
Did you have the intermittent P0410 fault code. My system works but when I clear the code it can return after few hours driving
Excellent video, my son's crossfire wasn't getting power to fuel pump, checked the relay and same problem you had , cleaned it up and good as new , thanks for being so thorough 2 thumbs up
Thanks for watching!
This may be one of the best instructional videos that I have ever viewed. Thank you for doing this.
Your comment made my week. Thank you, good day to you. Please consider subscribing if you haven't, I have a dash tear down vid coming, a center console reimagined video, and "how to finally get that engine light turned off" video on the way. All shot as well and detailed as this. Again, thanks for your support.
I would have went with a less course sandpaper. I was taught to use a dollar bill to clean points.
Thank you oh so very much! I've been touring garages for the last year with a recurring secondary air pump error. A bit of soldering and restoring the relay did the trick! Fantastic! I didn't use my wife's sewing scissors, though. But your secret is safe with me.
Very Good Video! I like how meticulously the connections are labeled. And removing the negative battery cable before starting is always a cautious and prudent thing to do. The detailed explanations of the relay operation is helpful. The detailed views of solder joint diagnosis and repair is thorough. I may actually now be able to attempt to do this myself. Thank you!
I think you can do this. I haven't actually had to replace the relay yet, but I have resoldered the joints and cleaned up the relays with probably slightly above average soldering skills (I took an electronics class in high school 30 years ago, and make modifications to RC cars and 3d printers today, I'm not out of practice but not a skilled Laborer in this field by any means).
Well that was easy. I have a low milage (19k) 2004 coupe and been happily driving the last three years trouble free, then today, ignition on, but no crank, and after a minute the cooling fan ran up to full speed. A known symptom of the solder joints being bad. I had a fair idea of how to resolve this, but your tutorial made it so clear. Took me literally half hour from lifting the bonnet to starting it up. I just had the three sets of pins bad, everything else was tidy and clean. Thanks for taking the time to make your video
Hey, no problem I enjoy the car too. I thought I had low mileage at 80k. Keep that car in great shape. Thanks for commenting.
extremely knowledgeable, great instructor and fantastic video producer
Wow, Thanks! What a great message to receive today.
What a great tutorial! I recently discover the Crossfire. Being a older car I’ve learned the RCM is a must to inspect. When I finally bring one home I now have confidence to inspect, clean, and repair the RCM as needed. Thanks!!
Hey, thanks for the kind words, it makes my week when one of my videos helps a fellow cf owner. Thanks for watching and commenting. It does make this experience even more worthwhile when somebody appreciates your contribution!!
Just watched your video and made the repair. Feels good knowing that I won't be stranded at the worst possible time by this issue!
Yep, next up is ignition pin. If your steering wheel or key are ever sticky when trying to start the car, or remove the key, you may have to do the repair I have coming up in an upcoming new release. Thanks for watching.
Thanks! This fixed my periodic no-start problem (re-doing solder joint).
Excellent, I'm glad the video was of some help!
I watched the video three times. Then on-vehicle tested the air pump with a continuity tester then directed wired to battery to make sure the air pump worked. It did. Then I followed your video to the letter, but I labeled the 5 wire connections with "Whiteout" dots, one for each number. Works great. I did your whole procedure and shut the hood in 45 minutes. Thank you so much for your wonderful video and sharing the depth of your knowledge. DD
Hey, thank you so much. Your comment made my day, and I'm so happy everything worked out for you here.
What a thorough and precise video! Thank you.
Thank you I re-soldered everything years ago and could not figure it out.
It was years of build-up the copper pieces. THANK YOU!!!
Thanks for commenting, im glad it worked out and that i coukd illustrated the burnished copper pieces through video.
Excellent video. Very well shot and very detailed. Just bought a used Crossfire and this saved me a ton of problems. Well done!
Thanks for watching. I have a fairly high mileage Crossfire now, it might benefit you to subscribe for my future videos. I really like to hear from people that my videos help, so thanks for your note, it made my day.
@@glencouls I subscribed after i watched 1st video, thank you.
Thanks for this very clear and concise video on an important topic for Crossfire owners
Cheers,
Hey, thanks so much for commenting and watching.
I MUST say KUDOS to you for a video well done! I did this process a few years back "blind" if you will. Wasn't quite sure what I was doing but I saw the black residue. I then used sandpaper but I now know Emory cloth is the better product to use thanks to you. Your video illustration and explanation was clear and concise. I need to revisit this part again and check the solder connections of the RCM. I never re-soldered them as the no crank no start has returned.
I'm sorry to hear the no crank , no start has returned. Good luck resoldering those joints.
@@glencouls Thanks for highlighting and replying. Figured I'd update you on the soldering job. Things went well and the vehicle started! I also noticed a little carbon build up on the air pump relay contact so I cleaned that as well. Safe and happy driving 👍👌😎
@@tooshort4892 I have a 10amp fuse that keeps blowing on start up, once I shut car down it won't start and I must change fuse again to start it... I'll do as was done in video but anyone has any idea why fuse keeps blowing or what this 10amp fuse is for ?
@@hajileserpud9539 Is this fuse in the fuse block or an added in line fuse? Make sure the fuse is the correct rating for the slot it is in. Outside of this or what the video suggests I'm afraid I really don't know much more.
@@tooshort4892 hello... It's on my K40 fuse block on my 2001 Mercedes E320 4matic... I see two 15 amp fuses in this video for the Chrysler Crossfire but on my K40 Mercedes block it has two 10 amps... 1 keeps blowing on start up
Great video, straight forward presentation. I too have a 2004 Chrysler Crossfire, and love it! I am always getting compliments about the car. BTW, I am purchasing a second Crossfire too.
I had flashing lights issue without starting, this was the issue I replaced with a second hand one it works now!
Enjoy that Xfire!!
Great info, definitely worth replacing the relays I believe. I had the N65 module, intercooler control relay specifically, go on my SLK32. I just jumped around it for now but I will be sure to clean up and inspect the used replacement I just ordered.
Thanks for watching and commenting. It sounds like you'll be up and running again as intended.
Thanks for this information used on a Mercedes SLK
Grrat news!, I'm glad it worked for you.
Instructive and you didn’t allow the music to ruin it
Ha, there's so many people that hate my music choices, thanks for watching and understanding its just supposed to be background filler to help with pacing. I'm not competing for a Grammy over here!
Really excellent tutorial
Thanks for watching.
Great info ! just bot an 04 black coupe with 163k. looking for all the help I can get for future repairs/upgrades. Thanks for the great video.
Welcome Brently, thanks for checking out my RUclips page. I love to drive my Crossfire, upgrade it, troubleshoot issues and share them here. If you haven't already please consider subscribing, I have a few videos in the works, security pin removal for stuck steering column and ignition switch, floor mats, front end, shock and stabilizer install, all coming soon. Thanks again for watching and commenting!
Fantastic video. thanks!
Thanks for watching and commenting, these out of the blue words of encouragement make want to make more videos.
Bought my mom a Crossfire last year. 04 Crossfire I believe. Got it used, drove beautifully for a couple weeks until we had to replace the glass due to a rock smashing the back windshield. When they replaced it they cut and rigged some wires back there. Even since the car won’t start. Intermittent battery drain. I’m just thinking of junking it but she loves the car.
This is pretty far out of my view to be able to answer. I would doublecheck the rewiring they did in the back make sure nothing got crossed third brake light and rear defrost are back there. If the car won't start, try reseting the battery (disconnect negative cable, then reseat it) then try to restart car. If the car starts for like two seconds then shuts off, it's the SKREEM immobilizer. Let me know if this is the diagnosis, as I have a couple of options none of them good, but you may not have to junk the car.
@@glencouls do you really have solution for the SKREEM?? Only alternative that people have I think is to buy it from NEEDWINGS but I dont know if they have it available. Any idea to resolve the issue?
@@armonianumerica5830 The Skreem unit is the defacto shutoff or last line of defense on what the car sees as a theft attempt. You'll need a new one if it's been triggered and detonated/executed. The only other thing I can think of is entire replacement of the engine, ecu, ignition, etc and drop in something awesome like a V8. There are guys that have done that, probably not road legal.
@@glencouls I had no idea you replied to this until now and it probably could’ve been helpful. We took it to a couple Electrical/wiring places who said none of the wiring seemed problematic and their best guess was the aftermarket touchscreen radio. She bought a battery switch to turn the battery off when she’s done driving it for the day. Then turns it back on when she wants to drive it. That way the battery can’t drain overnight. It’s still working for her to this day and I’m so glad we didn’t scrap it
You are awesome thanks for such information..
thanks a lot. Perfect vid for Crossfire Lovers..
Dany Rodriguez What kind of Gun that is soldering??
4:50... LOL Your secret is safe with us. Well hopefully it is, lots of Llamas out here. Thanks for making this video. I may need it. We still have our 2005
Crossfire Roadster Convertible. It's in excellent condition with only 49k miles and has been garage kept it's entire life. Only now are we starting to see some of the issues that older, harder run cars have already experienced. The alarm started going off randomly in the past few weeks. We'll be in the house and out of no where we hear the siren from the alarm and we check it but nothing is wrong. It's gotten to the point where I have had to pretty much stop leaving it locked/armed. I would have taken it into the shop already but our '19 Camry is in there as we speak. Great car BTW! Unfortunately we hit the curb avoiding a deer. Said Deer now owes me my $500 deductible... Good luck finding that a$$hole.
This morning I wake up to the same thing; blaring sirens in the garage. I forgot and must have locked it. Only this time the sirens sounded like a cricket dying over a PA system. Very pleasant to say the least. Especially when it's screaming in your ear as you're trying to disconnect the battery cable. In my little bit of research I've learned I should first check all my sensors and relays especially on the doors, and latches for the glove boxes. If that does not solve the problem I will remove the RCM... I really hope when I go out there in 30 mins with a Torx set that I find a lose switch somewhere and it's a simple fix. This car is in excellent condition. I also saw some info on the alarm module having it's own batteries and they could be bad or have leaked and destroyed the circuit board. That's a possibility too since the siren sounded so bad.. I'm just going to start checking things off. It's hot as hell outside too. Which me luck plz!
great video, very informative. I'd like to know the possible reason why a relay goes bad like the one in your video. Was it because the air pump was bad and never closed the relay, or age/wear caused the relay to fail?
it's also interesting there is no dust cover on the relays. Perhaps because they are already enclosed in a plastic casing around the whole RCM?
The manufacturer did NOT use enough solder at the joint, defect, or design flaw. Usually goes bad well after 36000 miles, all of them are secodary fratures not safety related so no recall.
I hand't watched this video in forever. I also think in order to shrink the size of the RCM they are using Relays and springs that are too small for the voltage coming through. Obviously for the horn and flashers they are pribably fine, but the air pump and fuel pump is likely a different story, these are everyday every moment items. They failed to consider the life of the relays.
Thanks, very helpful !!!
You're welcome, thanks for watching.
Very helpful. Thank you 👍🏻
You are welcome Don, I have a lot more Mercedes/Crossfire videos I'm working on in the edit bay. If you haven't subscribed, please consider doing so, if you have thanks for your support. It's people like you that inspire me to create. Have a great year!
Great information. Is the symptom of those faulty brown solder joints that it won't crank or just not start? Mine 2004 won't crank but I resoldered those pins since they were also brown but it still won't crank. Battery is relatively new and voltage is good. Thanks!
I'm having the same issue. Did you resolve your issue.
@@caroltinnie5387 it turns out that I needed a new SKREEM module. Hopefully, that's not your problem.
Can you do the same thing for the fuel pump?
Hey, awesome video. I just bought an older 2004 Crossfire and it is now experiencing total power loss. No dash lights, no nothing.
Any idea what it could be?
I'm looking at possible battery problems or battery cables or even the 200 amp fuse as possibilities but I am always open to suggestions and possible fixes.
Thanks.
And great video on the RCM.
Thanks for the nice words on the video. The Crossfire does some really weird stuff when the battery isn't showing at least 12.8v, if yours is a few years old, or unknown I would start with replacing it. I can't remember if I had dashlights when my CPS crank shaft positioning sensor went out, but I do recall not being able to crank the starter, so the CPS sensor might be a good look. There are two fuse boxes, one under the hood to the right of the engine when standing at front bumper looking into the engine, and one behind a pull panel behind the dash only accessible when drivers door is open. Check all of your fuses, including the ones on the RCM. Don't forget to inspect your RCM relays and solder joints.
@@glencouls wow! That was a fast response. I surfed the internet for others who may have had the same problem as I did and it turned out to be simple corrosion on the neutral cable to the battery. :)
Quick and simple and so far free repair.
As I just said to my son and will repeat here, when you have a problem with something, so long as the Internet is FREE to use, go do various searches. You're bound to find something that will help you start your own repair process if you are capable of doing it. Beats calling the mechanic only to have to pay a couple hundred on a repair that would have cost you five to fix.
And yes, the Crossfire is buggy but so far most of the things that go wrong could be easily remedied, like the RCM solder trick.
Once again, thanks for the response and I hope my issue and solution can help others out too.
Its good job ..thank you ✌👍
Great video i tried your fix worked for awhile now it won't start and the spoiler is up. Any ideas?
Battery is not keeping a 12.8v constant voltage.
a relay went bad on my RCM, not the joint. do you have a source or part number for the relay? i can solder a new one on.
oh nevermind, should have watched the whole video, thanks
Yep, it's in there. Might be hard to find. You may have to buy a dozen unfortunately. I do not have a source.
@@glencouls just checked, min 7 pieces at $4 each, $9 shipping. not bad if the soldering part goes ok.
Thanks for this detail, good luck with the soldering I'm sure you will be fine. Was your relay worse than mine in the video? Because this thing I thought was shot, but since I cleaned it up, it's been working well ever since. Thanks for your note. Good luck.
@@glencouls mine is weird, the contacts are fine but it doesn't click shut installed in the car, but it did on the bench. but it shows getting power and ground installed in the car. maybe I need to reflow the joints again before ordering new relays.
@@halleffect1 also check your battery. If it's a few years old I would be suspicious if it's getting enough to click the relay over.
My RCM doesn't have RED and BLACK jumper wires on the PCB. What is the purpose of the wire jumpers?
That makes it so you can honk your horn when keys not in the ignition. For some crazy ass reason these cars won't let you honk if your keys aren't at least in acc. My feelings are you have to have a horn at all times, what if you see something, need help, need to get somebody's attention whatever ... so I jumped power to the horn relay.
Did this clear your Secondary Air injection System fault code?
My secondary air error was finally cleared when I replaced the secondary air pump. I have that video on my youtube channel. It's a very easy repair.
@@glencouls my pump works though. The only thing I suspect is the stop valves might get stuck but or I have faulty o2 sensors. I still can't get to the root of the problem
Hi, I have a 2000 SLK 230 Kompressor that won't start. The mechanic says I probably need a new relay box but he can't do it because he doesn't have the computer equipment to program the new relay box. I would have to have Mercedes "flash" it or "reprogram" it, or a shop that has the equipment, so the relay will pick up the signal from my keyfob. Is this true? Does the whole car have to go to a shop with this equipment, or can I just bring them the relay box and my keyfob?:
I may have a friend who knows how to solder try first. The mechanic did mention some people do this. But, for now I have to tow my car back home. I also have to get another keyfob because I recently misplaced one and I have only one now! Thanks.
There are a few issues that can lead to mystery no start. One is the RCM I would start here, the next is the Crank Postioning Sensor (CPS) I have a video on that too, the next is the skreem unit. The RCM is no crank the engine won't turn over the relay stopped, with the CPS you can actually start the car and drive it a short distance then the engine cuts out. With sKreem unit the key fob is no longer paired with car for some reason and the ignition system has borked the skreem unit to save the car from theft. Watch "gone in 60 seconds" it goes into detail about mercedes theft prevention in that Era. This one will let you crank the car, but it doesn't get spark so it just cranks and cranks and cranks. I think your mechanic is sending you away because it's a headache and he doesn't want to deal with it.
Thank you!
You're welcome, thanks for commenting and watching.
Going to try this! My crossfire cuts on then cuts off soon I start it
Skreem unit.
Awesome vid, I just purchased a 04 and looking for the power seats fuse or relay because they do not work, can anyone help, thanx in advance
Under your steering column
@@MyKfactor lmao wow and I just changed it yesterday b4 getting this lol awesome 🙃
Hey man I just had a question and probably a very stupid question, but do I need to do anything with a new rcm that I bought or can I just pop it right in
If it's brand new you are probably fine, I would pop it out at about 12,000 miles of use and inspect those solder points at each oil change, also inspect the relays. If you see any charred residue at the joints or the relays, better break out the solder. If this RCM is just "new to you" but was a working pull, I would 100% get the soldering iron out and at least freshen up the solder pads at the base (circled area in video).
@@glencouls thank you!
glencouls i have the same issue as you with my air pump. perhaps do you have the number of the relay to buy in EUROPE ? As for Benz ? In your video is only for USA ( buyers ) What are the exact number serie on the relay for the air pump ?thanks a lot!
Bonjour, le relais de centrale clignotante se trouve dans cette boite a relais? Je le cherche . Cordialement
Ce n'est pas le relais Flasher. Je pense que c'est derrière le tableau de bord à gauche de la colonne de direction
Did that fix your problem? my sons having fuel pump issues. Added solder to some, but no cigar. may look into this.
This fixed my secondary air pump issue, as having the relay seized closed burned the pump out.
The coil on the fuel relay has gone bad. The relay has to be replaced. I refurbish RCMs. Message me for details.
tighed1 at hotmail dot com
Had the RCM out and soldered the 3 joints in close proximity near the edge of the board. Symptoms still remain the same, both key fobs don't work to unlock the car, the alarm sounds when mechanically unlocking the door and opening it, place key in ignition and turn to second position, all dash warning and information lights up light up. Turn the key to the Starting position, no change in dash warning and information lights. I have ordered Crank and Cam Hall sensors, just because every where I read said to do this anyway to keep spare. Then moved straight to the RCM as the next place. Would the symptoms I'm getting benefit from re flowing all the solder joints. And what root cause analysis process flow would you go down for this?? Battery -> Negative Terminal strap -> RCM -> BCM -> SKREEM -> ECU
Also reading the codes from OBDII with Torque app gives no errors, no pending and no historic. I have only just inherited the car and don't know the history before.
Have you changed the battery? I highly suggest trying a new battery. I had the key fobs stop working and seeing all dash lights and it was the battery. Back fin started doing crazy stuff too. You need the battery up over 12.8V. I doubt it's the SKREEM unit, when my SKREEM went bad it operated like normal, until I tried to start the car then it would crank for a bit on first attempt, then I would have to pull key out again, and put it back in to get it to crank... But would not start.
Also if you have low battery, the obdII readings could be getting cleared. I believe low battery is a potential cause for my relay to go bad.
Hi, i have missfire at 3rd cly in my 97’slk230. I have changed plugs, coils, cables,cps and maf sensor . nothing changed. Service tried all but they say its about ecu. Do you have any suggest about it? Or did you heard about same problem before?
Did you figure out what happened?
im preparing to buy a 2004 crossfire. it starts and goes slow down the road,but soon as you give it gas it shuts down. He is saying that the traction control relay is doing that to the car,,does this sound correct?
Hmmmm. I read of people pulling the fuse for traction control to disable it, and they claimed to still be driving the car after doing so, so in theory that would be upstream from the relay, and eliminating this diagnosis. I personally think this sounds like a crankpositioning sensor, mine would drive until it warmed up to temperature, then just Stahl and die out.
I should also say however, the electronics in this car never cease to mystify me (why they do things the way they do), so anything is possible
i have an issue with the fuel pump relay in the RCM/K40. it seems like the resistor beside the fuel pump is open, no connectivity. even if i ground pin E3, no power goes to pin B3, out to the fuel pump. i ‘ve replaced the 10ohm .25% tolerance resistor but after i turned the key on, it got fried open again. can you help me? any idea why the resistor gets fried? it seems to act as a fuse or something. many thanks.
btw, great video. very helpful.
Hey I have a 2007 crossfires and it tends to die 3 times a week i bought a brand new battery and it keeps dying could it be the fuses ?
Do you have an after market stereo or components? I would see if you have anything left on draining to battery. I installed a USB port in my center console back in 2015 and eventually ruined two car batteries. You might also check the alternator, sounds like it might be having a hard time keeping up.
Also check the alarm box that's under the windshield cowel under the wipers, exactly under the passenger wiper arm connection. The wiper arms don't need to be removed. Just a bolt on the firewall. The batteries inside go bad and draw the battery dead. After two years of the mystery driving me crazy, and multiple car battery returns, I searched on the crossfire forum. All it is is a noise box, dosent effect the alarm. The lights still flash. Replace with a new one or just leave it out. Hope this helps and is your problem.
Sorry to hijack your messages glencouls. Your videos are superior and a great help to the crossfire community.
Hey! No one in my area works on Crossfires... My alarm has just started to go off for no reason. Is there a fuse or module I can disconnect to stop this? Thanks!
Yeah buddy, hate to say it, nobody works on Crossfires, Chrysler-Dodge has abandoned the model, and AMG-Mercedes looks at it like a ginger haired stepchild refusing to work on it because it doesn't have the star. (Not that I have issues with gingers or stepkids). So, you better get as much knowledge about it as you can, this car will be great to you if you treat her right. You probably have a battery issue with the the alarm unit itself. I would recommend doing a google search, or crossfire forum search for "Chrysler Crossfire alarm cricket on crack" that should walk you through some fixes.
I would also look into your locking mechanism in the rear hatch to make sure its water free. Water will sometimes short the sensor back there and make the alarm head unit believe its triggered.
glencouls, I found a video that explained how to disable the alarm. I pulled the alarm out. We’ll see if everything else works. Thanks for your video and reply!
@@marksteddom6941 do you have a link to that video? My alarm has never really worked correctly and might be able to expand on this in greater detail.
glencouls, all the video said was that you had to take off the windshield wiper arms along with the cover that the windshield wiper arms go threw. I needed a arm puller to take both arms off. That was the hardest part.
Question, I took a test light to all terminal and I'm not getting power to the fuel pump relay,but I took a match stick and held the relay point closed and the pump worked. What issue do I have.
Look at 1:45 of the video. Re-solder all of the joints (in yellow), use electrical solder not plumbing, and add about a 1/4 inch pull of solder to each pad. I know you may think the solder looks fine but EVERY RCM has this flaw, it's only a mater of time before the solder points fail. I've even seen resoldered RCMs solder points fail AGAIN. Make sure when you are done the solder joint looks like a nice round bubble, not a chunky rock. I've also seen some folks do some cold solder pads and it may work for awhile, but eventually the amps pushing through that socket board, and the clacking closure of the relays will knock that poor solder rock free.
we have the same issue and i’ve traced mine to the resistor to the left of the fuel
pump relay. it gets fried open every time. i don’t know why. the resistor seem to act as a safety fuse that gets fried open. any idea what i should do? i’ve replaced the 10ohm with .25%variance resistor twice already and it gets fried once i switch the key to on position. hope someone can help me. this is my 2nd K40 in 10yrs and i don’t wanna keep on buying them. i wanna know why they break so i can fix the source. many thanks.
I've solved my problem, I bought a universal relay and rewired the fuel pump. Works great no issues.
hi Terry, do you have the wiring diagram or pictures or a video of how you fixed it?
@@rommeladre it was pretty simple to do. I watched a video on how to wire a relay and found one that the guy explains how to. They are numbers underneath the relay . Power from a current battery, find a fuse that will cut on and off with the key, ground, then what ever you need to power up.
Hello, I removed the RCM and I can no longer open my doors or the engine hood what should I do?
Driver door should be able to be opened with a twist of the key manually. The doors on the Crossfire are pneumatic, air operated but the locking mechanism should be mechanical and pop the door. Let me know how that goes. Please be aware removing the RCM has nothing to do with your door locks NOT working, but removing the negative battery cable does. You need power to run your locks.
You should not close the hood when the battery is disconnected. Because of this experience, I will add that line to the video.
Bad news my friend you are locked out if your key does not open the lock. We all have different work flows when working on the car, my car is tucked safely away in the garage and when the hood is up it stays up until I'm done. I rarely lock the car when it's in a locked garage. So, I have not experienced this issue before of not being able to get in to the car I'm working on. I have two ways to fix this. All require that you acquire something additional. The first and in my opinion the easiest, getting a 10mm ratcheting wrench and removing the hood latch N2C.co/hoodlatch . While I have removed the latch before, I have not done it this way so proceed with caution. The second option is to Jack up the car, place some lumber under the tires (which you must aquire) to provide suitable lift and undo the bib to gain access under the hood and hopefully reattach the battery. You can watch this process for undoing the bib in N2C.co/hardway video. Notice the 3/4 plywood on 2x4s that slide under the tires. Do not just start shoving a bunch of crap under the tires, you will need to be operating underneath the car, reaching up to get the negative battery cable attached to the terminal. You have to make sure the car is stable and safe before you get underneath it, proceed with caution. Please be aware I have not done either of these two methods myself and it may require you be agile when troubleshooting this process and figuring out what to do next.
Awesome Thanks
You are welcome, thanks for your comment. Have a great day.
What’s with the freaking music? Very distracting
I'm sorry you feel that way. I prefer music over silence, or "shmurp fzzzzz zeeep bluuuuurp" speed up video. The sounds of sped up video are like fingernails on chockboard to me, and silence while golden does not keep an audience awake and engaged.