Man - I sure could have used that on the Golden Age Arms "Lancaster kit, makes Me want to get started on another after I watch Your clues more. Yup! G-G 🤔🤩👍👌🔫✨🏅🏆
Man I wish I had seen this last month when I went to do my Baker Rifle tenons. I got by, but one of my holes ended up being too high, and now my key is loose on the forward-most tenon. I'm thinking of bending the key, to bow it out some to take up the space and get a more secure fit, otherwise I think I need to make a thicker key or solder some material to it.
Clay, using a straight board (& nail) like that is a great & simple idea! I'm guessing that you're doing this drilling _before_ bringing the stock (whatever you call the hand grip area) down to its finish size to avoid possible blow out *really* ruining your day? It looks like you've still got quite a lot of wood to remove, but I guess that depends on the style of gun you're making? Sorry to be asking possibly stupid questions, but this is the best I can do right now through my migraine..... :(
I prefer to leave the forend square until the pins are drilled. Less chance of the bit wandering when you start to drill. If you do start on a shaped forend, start the bit perpendicular to the spot where the bit starts and then raise the bit to the direction you want after it just enters the wood. Put a piece of painter's tape over the spot where the drill will exit to cut down on chipout as the bit exits. A piece of scrap wood over the exit hole works too.
I relieve it front to back slightly. That allows for the movement of the wood as it shrinks and swells. No bent pins then. Also always drive pins in from the right side and out to the right side. Less chance of popping out wood around the hole.
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Thanks. Keep them coming. I really look forward to everything you post.
Rainey day here in PA. I really enjoy watching a craftsman at his trade!
Awesome work thank you for making these videos. Please don’t stop making them. It is a pleasure watching a master at work.
Eureka!!! You make it so simple. Why didn’t I think of that???
Thanks Clay, I wish I had seen this video a few years ago, would have made life easier!
I used your method and it worked great, thanks!
Thank you for another great video.
Excellent video sir…
Man - I sure could have used that on the Golden Age Arms "Lancaster kit, makes Me want to get started on another after I watch Your clues more. Yup! G-G 🤔🤩👍👌🔫✨🏅🏆
Where do you get your 1/16 inch drill bits? It seems extra long. I bought a longer one, 6", but it broke. I am looking for one that won't break.
Genius.
Can you show a simple way to dovetail the lugs into the barrel?
Man I wish I had seen this last month when I went to do my Baker Rifle tenons. I got by, but one of my holes ended up being too high, and now my key is loose on the forward-most tenon. I'm thinking of bending the key, to bow it out some to take up the space and get a more secure fit, otherwise I think I need to make a thicker key or solder some material to it.
If you drilled the hole at the mark for the bottom of the tenon, you will drill the hole at the bottom of the tenon.
Thank you again….o grumpy one.
love your videos, do you have one on drilling ram rod holes
Don't have one yet. I'll put it on the list.
I have used a caliper with a depth attachment on it but neaver thought of using a board to leavl off of good thinking 👍
Clay, using a straight board (& nail) like that is a great & simple idea! I'm guessing that you're doing this drilling _before_ bringing the stock (whatever you call the hand grip area) down to its finish size to avoid possible blow out *really* ruining your day? It looks like you've still got quite a lot of wood to remove, but I guess that depends on the style of gun you're making? Sorry to be asking possibly stupid questions, but this is the best I can do right now through my migraine..... :(
I prefer to leave the forend square until the pins are drilled. Less chance of the bit wandering when you start to drill. If you do start on a shaped forend, start the bit perpendicular to the spot where the bit starts and then raise the bit to the direction you want after it just enters the wood. Put a piece of painter's tape over the spot where the drill will exit to cut down on chipout as the bit exits. A piece of scrap wood over the exit hole works too.
Clay do you relieve the hole in the tenon or leave it as drilled? Thanks.
I relieve it front to back slightly. That allows for the movement of the wood as it shrinks and swells. No bent pins then. Also always drive pins in from the right side and out to the right side. Less chance of popping out wood around the hole.