That's probably one of the nicest LIDL conversions I've seen, very clean. I like the 2 motor approach. I'm starting my own and will use many of your techniques, and 2 motors. I am building it much lighter, trying to keep it under 400g. I recommend cutting the packing tape off the ESCs to help with cooling. Looking forward to a flight video!
Hey Mike thanks a lot! The twin setup is definitely a lot of fun (especially with the differential thrust). Will be interesting to see how the light weight approach works ... below 400g with twins could be a challenge. The cooling of the ESCs is still quite OK. The max. temp is around 65-70°C. I will have to see what happens during summer. If they get too hot I will test without the packing tape. Enjoy your Lidl build,
Ahh, forgot to speak about the flight video... The video shots are all done, now I need to start the editing (which is always quite time consuming). If you can't wait just head over to my instagram account (bavarian.rc) to see some first flight video clips.
i just stopped the video in 1. minute and bring my coffe to watch this artwork. Not only job is perfect it is also perfect to edit and record all this 2 week long video. my regards. perfect !
I would suggest you to use 2 bladed propeller for more efficient flights also they will allow you to go faster with right 2 bladed propeller rather than 3 blade ones
Thanks a lot! Your comment saved my day 😊if you liked this build than have a look at the other build videos on my channel… and of course don‘t miss the flight video of the Twin Turbo Lidl.
My initial thought for the 3 bladed props was to keep the diameter small and avoid breaking props at landing. But obviously breaking was never an issue with the flexible HQ props. Never thought about going back to a 2 blade prop. But you are right, efficiency will be better. Definitely worth a try.
@@bavarian_rc there is too little gain between 2 and 3 blades at this diameters but we fly with 3 blades with drones mainly because of the feeling while doing sudden movements. Also at static thrust tests you will see there is not much difference in thrust but you will draw less amp from battery. İ also have my own lidl build with lion setup you can try 4s or 5s lion 18650 batteries if your esc allow you with this motor and 5" props for long flights but stick to the lipo for this kind of crazy flights, anyway still 4s would be great to watch hehe have a nice day
I started building and flying in the mid 80s. Later I stopped the hobby for about 25 years before to re-start in the age of light brushless motors and powerful Lipo batteries. So I know what you mean. Quite an evolution. Great that you liked my video! Cheers!
@@Dave5843-d9m True. It was expensive. But nowadays regulations have become so much more complicated. Watched a discussion about FPV today. Although there are circumstances why regulations may be strengthened, normal developers and inventors and model makers should be able to do like their grandfathers were doing: create.
@@bavarian_rc Also be careful which side of the cutter you use. Teeth cutting down into the job, will encourage it to dig into the work. Using the tool so it cuts upwards (away from the job) is less aggressive.
Thanks. I did some conversions before but this one turned out to be the best one yet. Flying it a lot! … and it all started with a 7,99€ chuck glider 😄
@@bavarian_rc Not bad. Considering a bird at that size will cost ya $200 smackers, that's a great deal. Ill stay tuned in to see what's next on the menu. Tex..
Amazing! I am also making experiments like you. Currently I am on DIY from scratch plane proto of pure polystyrene. You can get rid of bullets of Styropor after digging with very fast flame of fire it collapsed the surface drastically. I did not know dremel could do the holes like you show. I like to use fiber glass and epoxy too to bring back rigidity after getting extra space
Thanks! Even if I am more a balsa build lover it is always fun doing some crazy Lidl glider conversions. Never tried confronting styrofoam with fire. The Dremel works quite nicely but still leaves a big mess to clean up afterwards. Except for the CF reinforcements I also did'nt try epoxy and fiber glass yet. Worth a try next time 👍Curious to see your current project make it into a video on your channel. Cheers from Bavaria
Thanks for your positive feedback. Keep my fingers crossed for your maiden! I still fly my Twin Turbo Lidl a lot. It has around 150 flights already. Greetings from Bavaria 🙌
@@bavarian_rc . Good afternoon from the UK 👋. I’m pleased to report that the maiden flight was a great success. Very little trim required and superb handling. Could I please ask what percentage of differential thrust you have programmed? I’ve started at 25%, but think I could dial in more. Thanks again for posting your video cataloguing the conversion. I really appreciate the effort that this must have taken you.
That‘s great news! I actually went quite crazy with the differential thrust and used 85%. This allows for these weird flat spins. To enter the flat spin I usually pull up vertically, then reduce thrust to about 50%, wait a moment until the plane has slowed down and then slam in full nose down and full left aileron. About 1 second later I add full differential thrust to the right still keeping full down and full left aileron. The plane stays in the flat spin as long as you keep these control inputs. My longest flat spin was like 20 seconds. Thanks again for your feedback. That‘s the strongest motivation for me to continue producing such content.
@@bavarian_rc Excellent. I thought I needed more differential, but didn’t appreciate just how much! Will tweak my Tx parameters immediately 😉. Thank you so much for walk through for entering the flat spin too. I don’t have another flying slot until 2024 now (no too long), but will be sure to update you on progress. Good fun this hobby isn’t it? Merry Christmas from the small village of Bisley, Surrey. Paul. 🧑🎄
At the moment I am also not flying a lot due to either bad weather or the fact that the time before Christmas is always pretty busy. Sometimes I just strap my Twin Turbo to my backpack and take it with me on a Sunday afternoon family walk to do 1 or 2 flights (have a look at my Instagram account to see how that looks like). It always guarantees some suprised looks of other people seeing me walk by with a toy plane strapped to my back. For me this is the best hobby in the world. I am trying to get my boy into the hobby and we are currently building together his first own RC plane. I try to do what my father did with me when I was young. Keep me updated on your further progress and if you want, send me a foto of your Lidl (my mail address is in the channel impressum). I would really love to see how it looks like. I wish you as well a merry Christmas and great flying in 2024. Cheers, Robert.
Beautifully clean build, I especially liked the use of actual measurements and not just guesswork, also the use of the Dremel was a nice touch. Pleasure to watch 🙂
Thanks a lot. I am more the accurate type of model builder… even on a chuck glider. It just doesn’t feel right to do things quick and dirty. Actually the dremel works pretty well. It just creates a big mess of foam bits and pieces 😂
That was a pure pleasure to watch. Iv got my hands on the smaller versions from a toy shop, but have not seen any of these bigger versions at Lidl near me at all. Great video
Thanks, great that you enjoyed watching! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue
@@bavarian_rc Hi, iv just checked that site out, and registered. found the glider. but there is no option to make any purchases. do you know how to make a purchase on there? cheers
Seems they only sell B2B. Try searching for „Pilo XL“. I also found it on Amazon www.amazon.de/Jamara-460485-Schaumwurfgleiter-unzerstörbar-Höhenleitwerks/dp/B08JVG4RP3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1TD7Q5NCZARLL&keywords=pilo+xl+flieger&qid=1662851427&sprefix=pilo+xl%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-4
Sehr sauber gebaut. Bei mir muss immer alles schön sauber und perfekt werden :) Ich denke besser kann man es nicht umsetzen. Danke für das Video. Ich werde mich an deinem orientieren, nur mit fpv. Ich hoffe das wird ähnlich gut. Grüße aus dem Norden
Vielen Dank! Da haben wir genau den gleichen Ansatz… weil pfuschen kann ja jeder 😂 Da hab ich keine Zweifel dass Deiner auch gut performed. Ich fliege meinen sehr oft. Der ist klein, handlich und geht wie Hölle. Macht einfach nur Spaß. Schöne Grüße aus dem Süden!
Gute Idee! Ich hab‘s im Video nicht erwähnt aber ich hab die Motoren mit Differential Thrust programmiert. Da kann man recht lustige Dinge machen wie zum Beispiel super schnelles Flachtrudeln und allerlei Überschläge. Bin gespannt wie gut das mit dem Twin Turbo Lidl geht.
Very clean built. Good job. I made a similar one, where I added a FPV cam into the nose. But because I used spare parts of my broken mini quad, it is totally underpowered. 😁 In comparison your plane will be a beast. 💪
Fooling around with my first ESC/BEC/motors and propellers. I'm getting some ideas with the extra servos I need for control. My first experiment will be mounted on a plastic truck (RC) and might include a Raspberry Pi Pico with code for PWM throttle and maybe temperature. I'm a bit stuck with some details and it's not included in any videos.
Hi, that sounds interesting but hearing Raspberry Pi indicates that this beyond my skills 😂 Nevertheless I‘ll give it a try. Where are you stuck currently?
Very wonderful production sharing! I have seen the video of the test flight. Can you please make another introductory video after the final optimization? Very much looking forward to it! Can you also share the printed files of the motor base and rudder angle? Thanks again!🎉🎉
Thanks. Actually there was no further optimization necessary. It flies just perfectly. The link to the STL files for 3D printing is in the video description. Also you can find a plan and more detailed info there
A top build and a very clear and informative video of it. I don't know what your normal day job is mate, but if it is not in the teaching field then the world is missing out! 🙂
Thanks a lot for this fantastic feedback! Makes me feel a bit proud ☺️ My normal day job is far from teaching! But I am father of 3 kids… that kinda qualifies me as „teacher“ even if the success rate is a bit questionable 😜
Sehr wunderbare Produktionsfreigabe! Ich habe das Video vom Testflug gesehen. Könnten Sie bitte nach der endgültigen Optimierung noch ein Einführungsvideo machen? Ich freue mich sehr darauf! Können Sie auch die gedruckten Dateien der Motorbasis und des Ruderwinkels weitergeben? Danke noch einmal!
No sure if you saw my other answer to one of your comments. The design didn't require any more updates. The link to the STL files for 3D printing are in the video description
Thanks! For better cooling you could certainly put the ESCs into the nacelles. There were 2 reasons why I didn't do it. First: The ESCs don't get too hot. The max. temperature is typically around 60°C. Second: This thing is pretty much nose heavy. So every gram I could get behind the center of gravity (CG is at the position of the carbon tube) was helping me to avoid adding more weight in the tail. Greetings from Bavaria!
Thanks! You are possibly right that I could be a little bit less generous with hot glue 😂 Nevertheless hot glue easily fills gaps which means I don't have to cut too precise (like for the carbon spar). But in other areas foam safe CA glue could easily be used 👍
Because these gliders are made of very flexible EPP not stiff and brittle EPS, using a hard and brittle adhesive like CA (Superglue) would NOT be a good choice. As the foam flexes the CA will crack away from it. Also "Foam Safe" glues are for EPS - with EPP you can use things like rubber/contact cements which contain toluene. Using them on EPS would give a gooey mess instantly! Provided you make fairly neat fitting joints and scrape off any extrusions, hot glue makes a good and reasonably light job. Also 1 slight problem with EPP foamies is that there is often mold-release compound still coating the outside. This can make it difficult to get glues/tapes/adhesives to stick properly. You can try cleaning the mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol or roughing them up with sandpaper but generally a good hot application of hot glue will slightly melt into the foam and produce a really solid bond. And speaking of flexibility, you will notice that the builder has opted for slightly flexible props rather than the very stiff (and brittle) props used on racing quads. These are a little less efficient than the stiff ones but will take a LOT MORE heavy landings before they need replacing! 😉
FYI if you coat that wing with box tape, you wont have to put a reinforcing rod into it, and it smooths out the wing. if you layer the tape to overlap towards the rear, you create more lift due to the stair casing affect of the layering. i used to do this with gliders and mount 0.49's on them and fly them during the early 2000's.
I am using packing tape a lot on my foam board builds to reinforce them. Never thought about using it on a foamy except for covering things like ESC in the wing. Need to try this. Do the layers work like a kind of KFm airfoil?
@@bavarian_rc it can if you layer it so that the top stepps towards the leading edge and the bottom steps towards the rear of the wind. you'll cause the top the drag and the bottom to slip. which in turn causes lift. also if you pull the tape while setting it onto the wing, you'll cause a slight tension on the wing, then when you do the 2nd side it will pull it back, which causes the wing to become very rigid.
Thanks a lot. Quite interesting effect. The way you explain it makes totally sense. Tension on both sides will in effect make it totally strong. I will definitely try it 👍
@@bavarian_rc another tip for those foam gliders, before you tape it, Sand it with an 80 grit sand paper.. you can alter the shape and smooth out the surface, and it will help the tape to stick really good.
@@bavarian_rc also i have to say, that your hatch idea, with the easy release was a really good one that i have not thought of.. which is very rare, seeing that i have been doing rc planes since the early 80's.. :)
Looks like the product designer noticed that us crazy RC builders like the Lidl gliders. The new version is much better in its aerodynamic design, has a wider fuselage which makes it easier to get all the electronics inside and has a reduced wing/hstab incidence which is better for RC
@@bavarian_rc we have been hanggliding with lidlgliders for a few years now.. the original is great for that but the new one really sucks... Feels and looks like the wing profile thickness has increased a lot which increases the overall resistance. With motorized versions you might not notice much difference
Thanks! I already had some flights with it and it works pretty well, just need to give it a bit more motor down thrust angle. Now all I need is better weather for getting some nice footage.
Great video. I built a very similar Lidl twin a few years ago and it is still flying well and frequently now. I mounted my motors above the wing which seems good so it will be interesting to see if yours pitches up under power...
Thanks! I had some pitch up effects under power at the beginning. After some flights I found a motor down thrust of 2,5 degrees working quite well to compensate the effect. Another issue with mounting the motors under the wing is that the props are touching the ground when landing. By using the HQ props which have some flexibility I managed to avoid broken props. Check out the flight video to see how it behaves in the air: ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
For fine slices into the foam I'd prefer a soldiering iron with temperature control, which makes less fuzz, though, depending on the used glue (epoxy or CA) the dremel result might work better. Heat glue has some advantages, but only with specific materials.
The mess when working with the dremel is not as bad as it looks. The vacuum cleaner does the job. Maybe next time I try my hot knife. Should work similar to a soldering iron. On this type of foam I prefer hot glue or PU glue. With CA or Epoxy the results were not as good.
Thanks for your feedback. The battery is installed right underneath the black canopy (together with the receiver). You could have a look at my Instagram account (instagram.com/bavarian.rc/) there I posted some pictures of the battery installation (posted in May 2022). If that doesn't work for you then check my mail adress in the channel impressum (in the channel info) and drop me an email. I will then send you pictures of my battery installation.
Thanks! You are right, the props touch the ground when landing. The HQ props I use have some flexibility and don‘t break. Even after more than 60 flights with my Twin Turbo I didn‘t have a single broken prop.
@@bavarian_rc i have to tell you watching your video you inspired me to build this little one, i saw some other videos on youtube how to convert this baby into RC but none was as interesting as yours so thanks a lot for your video and willingness to share it with the rest of the world May the Force be with you 🖖 MfG aus NRW
Thanks a lot! It is positive feedback like yours that motivates me to go on making such content. The Twin Turbo Lidl is really the best Lidl conversion I have made so far. I fly it a lot as it performs just amazingly well. In case you haven't seen the flight video, have a look at it (ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html). You'll understand what I mean. Who would believe that a 7,99€ kids toy would fly like that. I have more than 100 flights with it and I never go flying without it. Schöne Grüße aus Bayern!
In case I need to reverse a servo I do this in the settings of the transmitter. If your transmitter doesn‘t have this feature you can still use normal servos and just rotate the installation position if needed
That depends a bit on your motor setup. I used 18A controllers that I already had lying around. They get warm during flight but not more than 70 degrees. So no need form a bigger ESC but I would also not take a smaller one. I would say any cheap 18 to 20A controller would be fine
Thanks! Yes, luckily I still had some of the Graupner motors available. They work really well. I haven't tested any alternative, but I guess any other 2206 2300kv motor will work as long as it can take 3S. This is one that I found: Holybro Brushless QAV250 Motor (www.mybotshop.de/Holybro-Brushless-QAV250-Motor) - also available in CW and CCW which is quite nice as it compensates the torque on a twin. This one could also work: DYS FIRE FPV Racing Motor 2206-2300kV (www.rcheli-store.de/Quadcopters/FPV-Racer/FPV-Racter-Motors/DYS-FIRE-FPV-Racing-Motor-2206-2300kV.htm?shop=rcheli_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=DYS-FIRE-2300&t=15578&c=32452&p=32452). I hope this helps.
Sure! Flies like a charm. Check out the Flight Video: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
Thanks, I am happy that you liked my video. Did you build your Lidl with the same design that I used? If yes, how do you like flying it? It is still one of my favorite planes. Close to 100 flights now!
@@bavarian_rc I finished it only yesterday, I tried to do the same, only I used a magnet on the cabin. when the weather is suitable, I'll try how it flies. I also want to try stabilization in the receiver. I would send a photo, too bad it can't be done here.
I would really love to see your version. If you are on Instagram you could send me a message via my account (@bavarian.rc) or if you would like to send me a mail then check out my RUclips Channel Info. There is a link to my "Impressum" where you can find my mail adress. I have been flying my Twin Turbo just yesterday and even with cold fingers it was so much fun. Wish you luck for the maiden flight.
I’m a bit confused by the new German model aircraft regulation. This build is about 580g. Does it mean I have to get a certification before I fly this plane? The regulation say that I don’t need certification for something less than 250g. In that case I would try to build something with smaller battery and single motor. But again, can someone clarify if my understanding is right?
As a simplified view: Every model that is heavier than 250g needs to have your eID (your registration) attached to it. If your model is heavier than 2kg or you are flying higher than 120m above ground you need a proof of knowledge ("Kenntnisnachweis"). For a complete overview check out this site: www.dmfv.aero/rund-ums-fliegen/einfach-sicher-fliegen/
Super Video - der Nachbau hat sehr gut geklappt. Ich habe nur Probleme den 3S Akku 1100mah so zu plazieren, dass der Schwerpunkt stimmt. Der Akku wiegt 110g und muss, damit der Schwerpunkt stimmt, fast mittig unter die Fläche. Das Heckservo ist wie bei Dir vebaut. Wo hast Du den Akku? Danke Claus
Servus Claus. Vielen Dank für deine tolles Feedback. Ich habe den Akku vorne unter der Haube untergebracht. Damit ist er natürlich gnadenlos kopflastig. Da ich aber immer mit GPS Logger fliege, habe ich den ganz hinten am Leitwerk angebracht und krieg damit den Schwerpunkt schon fast hin. Ein paar Gramm Blei hab ich zusätzlich noch ans Höhenleitwerk geklebt. Schau mal auf meinem Instagram Kanal vorbei da hab ich auch mal Bilder vom Akku Einbau gepostet. Das war im Mai 2022. Bei meinem RUclips Video über den SM GPS Logger zeige ich wie ich den Logger am Heck befestige. Schau mal ob Dir das hilft. Bei weiteren Fragen gerne nochmal melden. Schöne Grüße Robert
@@bavarian_rc Danke Robert für die schnelle Antwort. Das nenne ich Service!! Ich habe den Rumpf unterhalb der Fläche ein bisschen geöffnet und den Akku nach hinten verfrachtet. Abfluggewicht ist kanpp 400 Gramm. Hinten sind jetzt 10g Blei drin. Ich bin auf den Erstfug gespannt. Melde mich nochmal. Nochmals Danke. Claus
Super, das freut mich sehr! Mit dem Motorsturz musste ich auch ein wenig experimentieren, bis es einigermaßen gepasst hat. Ganz neutral hab ich ihn nicht hinbekommen. Wenn ich das Gas sehr weit rausnehme, dann will er immer noch etwas wegsteigen. Aber das ist nicht schlimm. Viel Spaß noch mit dem Lidl. Ich fliege meinen sehr oft, vor allem weil die Größe so handlich ist und man viele verrückte Dinge mit ihm anstellen kann. Hat schon fast 200 Flüge hinter sich. Robert
Merci! If you haven’t seen my flight video you missed the best part 😃 Here is the link: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
Danke. Der Schwerpunkt ist 60mm hinter der Flügelvorderkante. Schau einfach mal in die Videobeschreibung, da gibt‘s noch mehr Infos und einen Link zu meinem Plan.
A job well done - very neat, especially with the lack of any space in the airframe (being solid foam). I would have liked to have seen a video of it flying. The motors look very powerful, possibly less 'poke' and no need for the carbon spars?
Thanks! Check out my flight video: LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL - Build Video ruclips.net/video/YPsG6kbdEaI/видео.html The Power / Weight ratio is almost 2:1 … so going vertical is pure fun, just like the endless flat spins. I wouldn’t try without the carbon spar.
The lidl glider is no longer on the market and I would like to do the same thing as you to test a twin engine glider. where can I find a glider with the same dimensions? congratulations for your work
Thanks! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue
Hi, the props I use have some flexibility. During around 175 flights I didn’t have a single broken prop. I use 2x HQ 3-blade 5x4,3 or 2x T-Motor T 5146 Clear Red. Both work great. The T-Motor props have a bit more punch.
If you compare a carbon tube and a carbon rod of the same weight (meaning rod with a smaller diameter than the tube) then the tube is much stronger (stiffer) than the rod. So in the end the benefit is to save weight.
Yes, this thing is a bit nose heavy. Therefore I moved the elevator servo to the back and also installed my GPS Logger close to the tail. With that setup it balances with just 5g more of balancing weight glued to the tail.
Good idea! Never tried with a hot knife. I will give it a try next time. At least for some of the cuts it could work well. Removing all the material from the fuselage could be a bit tricky.
I used thin carbon strips to reinforce everything, and used gorilla glue/ugu por to glue them in. Why did you take out the dihedral? What benefits does it give you?
The dihedral leads to a self stabilizing effect. I was looking for high maneuverability with very high roll rates. The dihedral would counteract to this. If you would go for a very light thermal glider you would want to have dihedral for stabilizing the plane while circling in the thermals.
Vielen Dank Supper anleitung, habe mich beschlossen gleich nachzumachen, fand die idee echt super für meinen sohn was unkaputbares zu basteln !!! Könten Sie mir evtl , tipts zu Remote einstellungen schreibem , ob motoren auf dem gleichen kanal liegen und ob die beim fliegen wenden noch zusätzlich separat gesteuert werden !? Unsere erster Flieger 😁👍
Vielen Dank für das positive Feedback. Bei mir sind die beiden Motoren auf jeweils einem eigenen Kanal und dann über einen Mischer kombiniert. Zusätzlich habe ich noch differential thrust, d.h. ich kann mit dem Seitenruder Kanal einen Motor abbremsen und den anderen auf Drehzahl lassen. Das führt dann zum Beispiel zu den lustigen flat spins (siehe mein Flugvideo vom Twin Turbo Lidl). Wenn das euer erster Flieger ist, dann muss ich euch aber auch warnen. Meine Konfiguration ist ziemlich übermotorisiert und auch die Querruder sind ziemlich groß um maximale Agilität zu haben. Das ist so in der Form nicht wirklich Anfänger tauglich. Solltet ihr schon genügend Flugerfahrung haben, dann ist das natürlich kein Problem. Bei weiteren Fragen einfach melden.
Danke für ausführliche Antwort, das Flug Video habe ich auch angesehen, fand echt super, das Model ist wirklich agil und schnell müste ich nachher auch feststellen 🤣🤣🤣 aber mit anderen motoren denke könnte mann auch die Geschwindigkeit etwas drosseln oder mit dem regler , bin erlich gesagt fast fertig mit dem Modell und bräuchte evtl . noch paar Tips zu Qklappen auschlägen und weiteren Einstellungen habe Gr MZ-24 , wenn Sie mir da noch paar Tips zu Agilität Drosselung von Q ruder oder Regler Einstellungen geben würden, wäre 👍 Fahre selbst Endurance ode E-boote 🤣 ist doch etwas anders . MfG
@@bavarian_rc Regler habe ich von Graupner S3082.BEC, gleiche Motoren, Graupner Gr 12 , E-max servos MG x2 und eine normale analog , Sender MZ-24 , lipos 2S und 3S zu Auswahl, rest genau so wie in dem BauVideo außer das ich mir die ganze zeit überlege noch wie Ich den Flügel abnehmbar machen könnte ohne Stabilität zu beantragen 🤔 , alle 3d druckteile. Ps' anderen BauVideos auch shon alle angesehen , sehr gründliche präzise und saubere Verarbeitung - wirklich Toll'
Ok, wenn der Flieger schon fast fertig ist, dann muss der auch in die Luft 😉 Ich würde dann halt nicht mit Vollgas fliegen. Ich schicke Dir mal ein paar meiner Einstellungen, dann hast Du einen Anhaltspunkt um gegebenenfalls dann alles etwas weniger aggressiv einzustellen. Erst mal zur Kanalbelegung an meinem Graupner GR-12. Ich habe auf Kanal 1 den ESC vom rechten Motor, Kanal 2: Querruder links, Kanal 3: Höhenruder, Kanal 4: Querruder rechts, Kanal 5: Telemetrie, Kanal 6 ESC vom linken Motor. Bei beiden ESC's nach Anleitung den Weg einlernen (also Vollgas und Nullstellung) Ausschläge der Querruder (gemessen ganz innen beim Rumpf): 13mm hoch, 12mm runter mit 70% Expo. Ausschlag Höhenruder (gemessen ganz innen bevor die Schräge hochgeht): 10mm hoch und 9mm runter mit 40% Expo. Die Ausschläge würde ich für zahmere Flugeigenschaften auf jeweils 50-60% reduzieren. Wichtig ist das hohe Expo beim Querruder, da er um die Mittellage herum sonst sehr nervös wird. Im Menü "freier Mischer" einen Mischer von Kanal 1 auf Kanal 6 einrichten mit 100% (dadurch geht der linke Motor synchron mit dem rechten Motor mit). Falls Du Differential Thrust haben willst, einen freien Mischer von Kanal 4 (eigentlich Seitenruder) auf Kanal 1 (also Motor rechts) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder rechts der rechte Motor runter geregelt wird. In gleicher Weise einen weiteren freien Mischer von Kanal 4 auf Kanal 6 (also linker Motor) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder links der linke Motor runter geregelt wird. Die beiden Mischer für Differential Thrust habe ich bei mir noch auf einen Schalter gelegt um das ganze ein- und ausschalten zu können.
Der Regler ist vergleichbar mit meinem, hat aber keine Telemetrie, was kein Problem ist. Die MZ-24 habe ich auch, schöner Sender!👍 Ich betreibe den Flieger mit 3S 1800 mAh. Damit bekomme ich ca. 5:30 Minuten Flugzeit wenn ich nur ab und zu Vollgas gebe und sonst mit ca. 50-60% Gas fliege. Mit 2S habe ich das noch nicht versucht. Damit wäre auf jeden Fall der Schwerpunkt leichter zu erreichen. Ich muss meinen GPS Logger ganz hinten vor dem Seitenleitwerk befestigen um den Schwerpunkt zu erreichen (60mm von der Flügelvorderkante). Zu den Motoren noch: Ich hatte meine zunächst mit zu wenig Sturz eingebaut und habe dann später die Motoren so lange weiter nach unten gekippt bis ich bei Lastwechsel keine starken Auf- und Ab-Bewegungen mehr hatte. Die Motoren sollten also ca. 1,5 Grad (gegenüber der Profilsehne) nach unten geneigt sein. Ich habe mir hierzu eine 3D gedruckte keilförmige Scheibe (in der Größe des Motors) unter die Motoren gelegt. Kannst aber auch einfach Unterlegscheiben dazwischen packen bis der Winkel stimmt. Wichtig ist noch bei den Propellern welche zu nehmen die etwas flexibel sind (so wie meine HQ props), sonst brechen die Propeller bei jeder Landung. Die HQ Props haben fast 100 Flüge hinter sich und sind noch nie gebrochen. Die Flügel abnehmbar machen geht sicher, bringt halt Zusatzgewicht mit sich. Da der Flieger sehr klein ist, habe ich alles fest verklebt. Ach ja, noch ne Frage: Welchen Lidl Flieger hast Du als Basis genommen? Den von 2022 oder von 2021? Ich frage deshalb weil der 2021 Flieger (den hab ich verwendet) ein besseres (halbsymmetrisches) Flügelprofil hat und weniger Einstellwinkel-Differenz zwischen Höhenleitwerk und Flügel (was prinzipiell auch besser ist). Meine ganzen Angaben beziehen sich auf dieser Version von 2021. Der 2022 Flieger war wie die früheren Versionen von 2020 und die Jahre davor mit einem Profil mit gerader Unterseite ausgestattet und deutlich mehr Einstellwinkel-Differenz. Wenn Du diese Version hast musst Du evtl. eine Einstellungen anpassen, aber das wird sich im Flug zeigen. Ich hab auch schon einige Lidl Flieger auf der Basis 2022 umgebaut, die gehen auf jeden Fall auch gut. Bei höheren Geschwindigkeiten gefällt mir aber die 2021 Version besser. So jetzt hast Du erst mal einiges zu Lesen 😁Schöne Grüße und viel Erfolg.
Bei meinem Graupner GR12 Empfänger habe ich auf Kanal 1 den ESC vom rechten Motor, auf Kanal 6 den ESC vom linken Motor. Bei meiner Graupner MZ-24 Fernsteuerung habe ich dann im Menü "freier Mischer" einen Mischer von Kanal 1 auf Kanal 6 eingerichtet mit 100% (dadurch geht der linke Motor synchron mit dem rechten Motor mit). Um dann noch Differential Thrust zu haben, habe ich einen freien Mischer von Kanal 4 (eigentlich Seitenruder) auf Kanal 1 (also Motor rechts) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder rechts der rechte Motor runter geregelt wird. In gleicher Weise habe ich einen weiteren freien Mischer von Kanal 4 auf Kanal 6 (also linker Motor) mit 85% so eingerichtet, dass bei Seitenruder links der linke Motor runter geregelt wird. Die beiden Mischer für Differential Thrust habe ich bei mir noch auf einen Schalter gelegt um das ganze ein- und ausschalten zu können. Ich hoffe, das hat Deine Frage beantwortet. Falls nicht, einfach nochmal melden.
Boh, ist bestimmt ne Super Ansteuerung der beiden Brushless. Aber geht das nicht einfacher? Y bzw. V- Kabel an Thrust, je einen BEC an V- Kabel, an einem BEC davon das rote Kabel abtrennen und Plus und Minus tauschen damit dieser Brushless gegenläufig läuft. Hatte ich mal bei einer Trans All so gemacht. O.K....ein Motor läuft dann etwas später, kaum merkbar !, an. Beide Motore laufen dann immer zur gleichen Zeit gleich Stark, das hat mir aber voll und ganz gereicht. Wozu noch unterschiedliche Drehzahlen je Seite?, wozu noch Zu und Abschaltbar ? bei einem LIDL Flieger.....
Hi, ja natürlich geht das auch einfacher mit Y-Kabel. Ich wollte aber unbedingt Differential Thrust, denn wenn man die beiden Motoren per "Seitenruder"-Funktion mit unterschiedlicher Drehzahl ansteuern kann, dann sind damit ziemlich verrückte Manöver möglich. Schau Dir mal das Flugvideo von meinem Twin Turbo Lidl an. Diese extrem schnellen Flachtrudel-Manöver gehen nur mit Differential Thrust. Dass ich das Differential Thrust noch ein und ausschalten kann braucht's nicht wirklich, war eher eine Vorsichtsmaßnahme falls ich beim Programmieren was verbockt habe, dann kann ich's einfach deaktivieren.
Thanks a lot! The battery is installed in the cavity in the front of the fuselage together with the receiver. I just posted a picture of the installed battery on my Instagram account (bavarian.rc)
Merci. Here is the link to the motor mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1096211/files You can also find the link to the motor mount (power pod) in the video description together with all the other links to my STL parts and plans. You might also like the flight video of my Twin Turbo Lidl. Just check out my channel.
Thanks!!! Flies fantastic. Just had to give the motors 2.5 degrees more down-thrust. I already made some flights with onboard camera. Flight video will come but will need a bit more time. Check my Instagram account bavarian.rc … I will upload some clips in the next days
How did you wire up the receiver to get differential thrust and 3 servos to a 6 channel receiver and how did you configure the transmitter for this aswell
Hi, the wiring on the receiver is as follows: 1: Right ESC, 2: Left Aileron, 3: Elevator, 4: Right Aileron, 5: Telemetry, 6: Left ESC, in the receiver map channel 5 -->4 (to have the right aileron on 4). Configuration of the transmitter: Mix channel 1 --> 6 (curve: -100% to +100%) (for throttle), Mix channel 4 --> 1 (curve: -85% to +85%), Mix channel 4 --> 6 (curve: +85% to -85%). You might need to invert the curves if the wrong motor is spinning when applying rudder input. Be careful when trying this - always remove the props! It was a pain until I got this working for the first time but finally it works. Hope this helps!
@@bavarian_rc yeah that's really helpful and I know your twin motor design is pretty quick but do you think there would be enough thrust with just one on the front
Thanks! I used Irvine Super Z-Bend Plier w/Nav.Pin. I found them in a German online shop but they are also available in the UK: themodelshop.net/irvine-super-z-bend-plier-wnavpin-168929-p.asp
Most of the stuff is listed in the video description. You should be able to find with the info given there. If you look for something specific, let me know
Hi! There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Yamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue I hope this one is available in Canada. If you find it anywhere else then let me know as I am often asked about where to get the plane. Especially if you find the V2 which is and improved version of the V1 with half symmetrical air foil and a wider fuselage. Unfortunately Lidl sold it only in 2021 and went back to the V1 this year.
Sure, could you „direct mail“ me on my Instagram account: bavarian.rc If you are not on Instagram let me know, then I will find other way to send you the pictures.
This is so cool- I'd heard of these conversions, and tried finding one at a Virginia Lidl store, but maybe it's a seasonal thing. Anyone know where or if it's available from Amazon or other retail?
Thanks! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year. In Europe this is around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara where it is called Pilo XL: www.amazon.de/JAMARA-Schaumwurfgleiter-2in1-Pilo-orange/dp/B08JVGJNB6?th=1
It is a Dremel 3000 with a Dremel Carving Bit (193) + Multipurpose Cutting Kit (565). You can check the video description to get more info on the material and tools I used.
Hallo Bavarian RC, kannst du mir sagen wie ich auf den linken Stick "Gas UND Störklappen" drauf bekomme für einen Motor-Segler.. Von 1 bis 100 soll er Gas geben und runter von -1 bis -100 soll er die Störklappen rauslassen. Ich weiss nicht wie ich das umsetzen kann mit zum Beispiel einem 6 Kanal Spektrum empfänger ..... kannst du mir da helfen deine Videos sind absolut informativ , lehrreich und perfekt geschnitten danke und gruss david
Erst mal danke für dein positives Feedback. Freut mich sehr! Nun zu Deiner Frage: ich kenne mich mit Spektrum Anlagen nicht aus aber prinzipiell würde ich das so machen: linken Stick auf einen nicht benutzten Kanal zuweisen. Diesen Kanal mit 2 separaten Mischern auf jeweils Motor und Störklappe mischen. Einmal mit ner Kurve die von 1 bis 100 geht. Unter 1 also keine Mischung. Und der andere Mischer der von -1 bis -100 geht und über 0 keine Mischung hat. Ist etwas kompliziert müsste aber gehen vorausgesetzt die Spektrum Anlage kann solche freien Mischer. Ich würde aber eher Motor auf dem Stick lassen und die klappen über einen 3-Stufen Schalter steuern. So hab ich das bei mir. Manche legen auch den Motor auf den 3 Stufen Schalter und die Klappen auf den Stick. Hoffe das hilft dir weiter
Also prinzipiell geht das auch mit nem 2018er Flieger. Schwerpunkt ist gleich, die meisten Maße können annähernd übernommen werden… aber der aktuelle Flieger hat ein paar echte Vorteile: halbsymmetrisches Profil (bessere Flugleistung, geht besser im Rückenflug), geringere Einstellwinkeldifferenz (entspricht eher dem was man bei einem RC Modell nehmen würde), breiterer Rumpf im vorderen Bereich (damit passen Akku und Empfänger besser rein). Damit hat der Flieger deutlich ausgewogenere Flugeigenschaften. Evtl. lohnt es sich bis Mai/Juni zu warten bis der Flieger wieder bei Lidl zu haben ist.
@@bavarian_rc Aha, danke dann für die Info! Ich werde vermutlich mir einen etwas neueren dann kaufen, um das Modell etwas moderner zu gestalten...trotzdem vielen dank! Könnte ich vielleicht auch die Daten für die ganzen Maßen haben, also wie tief ich bohren muss oder wie lange ich was ausschneiden muss?
Schau mal in die Video Beschreibung, da ist ein Link auf meine Pläne drin und viele weitere Infos. Die Aushöhlung im Rumpfvorderteil ist nicht vermaßt, die richtet sich ein wenig nach der Größe des Akkus. Es sollte aber ein Wandstärke von rund 8mm nicht unterschritten werden. Sag Bescheid wenn Dir noch Maße oder Infos fehlen. Viel Spaß beim bauen!
The cleanest Lild Glider build I've seen so far! BRAVO!
Thanks a lot. The effort was certainly worth it. It flies so well that I never go flying without it. It's close to 100 flights now.
I'm impressed by the quality of the transformation work - well done. I'm going to have to find one before the sun comes out ;)
Thanks a lot! Go get one for yourself, it’s really a simple and quick build and so much fun to fly. Did you also see my flight video?
@@bavarian_rc Yes, I watched it and it finally made me want to get on with the project :=)
😁👍🏻
That's probably one of the nicest LIDL conversions I've seen, very clean. I like the 2 motor approach. I'm starting my own and will use many of your techniques, and 2 motors. I am building it much lighter, trying to keep it under 400g. I recommend cutting the packing tape off the ESCs to help with cooling. Looking forward to a flight video!
Hey Mike thanks a lot! The twin setup is definitely a lot of fun (especially with the differential thrust). Will be interesting to see how the light weight approach works ... below 400g with twins could be a challenge. The cooling of the ESCs is still quite OK. The max. temp is around 65-70°C. I will have to see what happens during summer. If they get too hot I will test without the packing tape. Enjoy your Lidl build,
Ahh, forgot to speak about the flight video... The video shots are all done, now I need to start the editing (which is always quite time consuming). If you can't wait just head over to my instagram account (bavarian.rc) to see some first flight video clips.
i just stopped the video in 1. minute and bring my coffe to watch this artwork. Not only job is perfect it is also perfect to edit and record all this 2 week long video. my regards. perfect !
I would suggest you to use 2 bladed propeller for more efficient flights also they will allow you to go faster with right 2 bladed propeller rather than 3 blade ones
Thanks a lot! Your comment saved my day 😊if you liked this build than have a look at the other build videos on my channel… and of course don‘t miss the flight video of the Twin Turbo Lidl.
My initial thought for the 3 bladed props was to keep the diameter small and avoid breaking props at landing. But obviously breaking was never an issue with the flexible HQ props. Never thought about going back to a 2 blade prop. But you are right, efficiency will be better. Definitely worth a try.
@@bavarian_rc there is too little gain between 2 and 3 blades at this diameters but we fly with 3 blades with drones mainly because of the feeling while doing sudden movements. Also at static thrust tests you will see there is not much difference in thrust but you will draw less amp from battery. İ also have my own lidl build with lion setup you can try 4s or 5s lion 18650 batteries if your esc allow you with this motor and 5" props for long flights but stick to the lipo for this kind of crazy flights, anyway still 4s would be great to watch hehe have a nice day
4s? That would make this thing even more crazy 🤩🤣
Nice build. I flew in the 80’s. Built about 10 or so. Technology wasn’t as light and evolved as it is now. Keep on with the good stuff!
I started building and flying in the mid 80s. Later I stopped the hobby for about 25 years before to re-start in the age of light brushless motors and powerful Lipo batteries. So I know what you mean. Quite an evolution. Great that you liked my video! Cheers!
Back in the 1980s, the problem was cost. Everything was SOOO expensive. Today's electronics have made the hobby/sport far more accessible
@@Dave5843-d9m True. It was expensive. But nowadays regulations have become so much more complicated. Watched a discussion about FPV today. Although there are circumstances why regulations may be strengthened, normal developers and inventors and model makers should be able to do like their grandfathers were doing: create.
Yes it‘s a completely different world today with all the electronic gimmicks.
@Paul Brouyere It‘s as always… some are doing bad things and everything gets regulated afterwards for ALL 🥲
I finally learnt how to do canopy latches! Thanks for the building vlog. Some great techniques shown. Very clean build!
Thanks a lot! It took me some evolution steps to come up with this canopy latch solution 😜
You are really good at free hand cutting with the dremel. I would have been all over the place. Nice work.
Thanks! The trick is the tape around and to make an small cut with the blade first. The dremel runs along the cut like on rails.
@@bavarian_rc Also be careful which side of the cutter you use. Teeth cutting down into the job, will encourage it to dig into the work. Using the tool so it cuts upwards (away from the job) is less aggressive.
You are certainly right. As it was only foam I was a bit lazy about this but still had to hold the dremel quite firmly.
Wow! I thought about doing that to a chuck glider but had no idear where to start. Yours will fly great. Great Job!
Thanks. I did some conversions before but this one turned out to be the best one yet. Flying it a lot! … and it all started with a 7,99€ chuck glider 😄
@@bavarian_rc Not bad. Considering a bird at that size will cost ya $200 smackers, that's a great deal. Ill stay tuned in to see what's next on the menu. Tex..
There are some projects in the pipeline. Next video will most probably be a build video of a small flying wing. Half way through the build by now.
@@bavarian_rc Horten flying wing?😁Fingers crossed, Yeup i'll tune in and enjoy the build.
Don’t wanna disappoint you but no Horten. But you‘ll see …
Amazing! I am also making experiments like you. Currently I am on DIY from scratch plane proto of pure polystyrene.
You can get rid of bullets of Styropor after digging with very fast flame of fire it collapsed the surface drastically. I did not know dremel could do the holes like you show.
I like to use fiber glass and epoxy too to bring back rigidity after getting extra space
Thanks! Even if I am more a balsa build lover it is always fun doing some crazy Lidl glider conversions. Never tried confronting styrofoam with fire. The Dremel works quite nicely but still leaves a big mess to clean up afterwards. Except for the CF reinforcements I also did'nt try epoxy and fiber glass yet. Worth a try next time 👍Curious to see your current project make it into a video on your channel. Cheers from Bavaria
Thanks for this brilliantly well presented conversion video. Just completed the conversion myself and hoping to maiden tomorrow.
Thanks for your positive feedback. Keep my fingers crossed for your maiden! I still fly my Twin Turbo Lidl a lot. It has around 150 flights already. Greetings from Bavaria 🙌
@@bavarian_rc . Good afternoon from the UK 👋. I’m pleased to report that the maiden flight was a great success. Very little trim required and superb handling. Could I please ask what percentage of differential thrust you have programmed? I’ve started at 25%, but think I could dial in more. Thanks again for posting your video cataloguing the conversion. I really appreciate the effort that this must have taken you.
That‘s great news! I actually went quite crazy with the differential thrust and used 85%. This allows for these weird flat spins. To enter the flat spin I usually pull up vertically, then reduce thrust to about 50%, wait a moment until the plane has slowed down and then slam in full nose down and full left aileron. About 1 second later I add full differential thrust to the right still keeping full down and full left aileron. The plane stays in the flat spin as long as you keep these control inputs. My longest flat spin was like 20 seconds. Thanks again for your feedback. That‘s the strongest motivation for me to continue producing such content.
@@bavarian_rc Excellent. I thought I needed more differential, but didn’t appreciate just how much! Will tweak my Tx parameters immediately 😉. Thank you so much for walk through for entering the flat spin too. I don’t have another flying slot until 2024 now (no too long), but will be sure to update you on progress. Good fun this hobby isn’t it? Merry Christmas from the small village of Bisley, Surrey. Paul. 🧑🎄
At the moment I am also not flying a lot due to either bad weather or the fact that the time before Christmas is always pretty busy. Sometimes I just strap my Twin Turbo to my backpack and take it with me on a Sunday afternoon family walk to do 1 or 2 flights (have a look at my Instagram account to see how that looks like). It always guarantees some suprised looks of other people seeing me walk by with a toy plane strapped to my back. For me this is the best hobby in the world. I am trying to get my boy into the hobby and we are currently building together his first own RC plane. I try to do what my father did with me when I was young. Keep me updated on your further progress and if you want, send me a foto of your Lidl (my mail address is in the channel impressum). I would really love to see how it looks like. I wish you as well a merry Christmas and great flying in 2024. Cheers, Robert.
Wow Tidy job. Best conversion I've seen yet.
Thanks a lot! It was super fun to build and it is super fun to fly!
Beautifully clean build, I especially liked the use of actual measurements and not just guesswork, also the use of the Dremel was a nice touch. Pleasure to watch 🙂
Thanks a lot. I am more the accurate type of model builder… even on a chuck glider. It just doesn’t feel right to do things quick and dirty. Actually the dremel works pretty well. It just creates a big mess of foam bits and pieces 😂
@@bavarian_rc Same here, no point in a shoddy job, you do impressive work and I wish you the best for your future endeavours 💯🙂
Next project is in the making ... video will follow soon. This time a tiny balsa flying wing
What a beautifully done build! I really enjoyed watching the process. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks a lot. Great that you enjoyed it!
That was a pure pleasure to watch. Iv got my hands on the smaller versions from a toy shop, but have not seen any of these bigger versions at Lidl near me at all. Great video
Thanks, great that you enjoyed watching! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue
@@bavarian_rc Cheers mate, i shall take a look and see if i can purchase a few. Keep those video,s coming. their great.
@@bavarian_rc Hi, iv just checked that site out, and registered. found the glider. but there is no option to make any purchases. do you know how to make a purchase on there? cheers
Seems they only sell B2B. Try searching for „Pilo XL“. I also found it on Amazon www.amazon.de/Jamara-460485-Schaumwurfgleiter-unzerstörbar-Höhenleitwerks/dp/B08JVG4RP3/ref=sr_1_4?crid=1TD7Q5NCZARLL&keywords=pilo+xl+flieger&qid=1662851427&sprefix=pilo+xl%2Caps%2C144&sr=8-4
Sehr sauber gebaut. Bei mir muss immer alles schön sauber und perfekt werden :) Ich denke besser kann man es nicht umsetzen. Danke für das Video.
Ich werde mich an deinem orientieren, nur mit fpv. Ich hoffe das wird ähnlich gut.
Grüße aus dem Norden
Vielen Dank! Da haben wir genau den gleichen Ansatz… weil pfuschen kann ja jeder 😂 Da hab ich keine Zweifel dass Deiner auch gut performed. Ich fliege meinen sehr oft. Der ist klein, handlich und geht wie Hölle. Macht einfach nur Spaß. Schöne Grüße aus dem Süden!
Klasse Video, jetzt weiß ich wie ich meinen alten Twinstar modifizieren kann
Gute Idee! Ich hab‘s im Video nicht erwähnt aber ich hab die Motoren mit Differential Thrust programmiert. Da kann man recht lustige Dinge machen wie zum Beispiel super schnelles Flachtrudeln und allerlei Überschläge. Bin gespannt wie gut das mit dem Twin Turbo Lidl geht.
Thats the Mother of a clean build. Well done!
Thanks a lot!!!
Wow soviel Mühe in das Projekt investiert. Respekt. Sehr saubere Arbeit. 👍
Vielen Dank! Bei mir muss es halt immer sauber gebaut sein. Da kann ich nicht aus meiner Haut. 😃
The engineering and build quality is fab!
Thanks a lot mate!
Very nice, very clean and clear explanation. Good job.
Thanks a lot!
Very clean built. Good job. I made a similar one, where I added a FPV cam into the nose. But because I used spare parts of my broken mini quad, it is totally underpowered. 😁 In comparison your plane will be a beast. 💪
Thanks! Yes it’s got plenty of power. Check out the flight video!
Fooling around with my first ESC/BEC/motors and propellers. I'm getting some ideas with the extra servos I need for control. My first experiment will be mounted on a plastic truck (RC) and might include a Raspberry Pi Pico with code for PWM throttle and maybe temperature. I'm a bit stuck with some details and it's not included in any videos.
Hi, that sounds interesting but hearing Raspberry Pi indicates that this beyond my skills 😂 Nevertheless I‘ll give it a try. Where are you stuck currently?
Very wonderful production sharing! I have seen the video of the test flight. Can you please make another introductory video after the final optimization? Very much looking forward to it! Can you also share the printed files of the motor base and rudder angle? Thanks again!🎉🎉
Thanks. Actually there was no further optimization necessary. It flies just perfectly. The link to the STL files for 3D printing is in the video description. Also you can find a plan and more detailed info there
A top build and a very clear and informative video of it. I don't know what your normal day job is mate, but if it is not in the teaching field then the world is missing out! 🙂
Thanks a lot for this fantastic feedback! Makes me feel a bit proud ☺️ My normal day job is far from teaching! But I am father of 3 kids… that kinda qualifies me as „teacher“ even if the success rate is a bit questionable 😜
@@bavarian_rc LOL. Give it time. Soon enough it will be the grandkids (et al) teaching Poppi "how to drive!" 😜😁
So true!!!
@Bavarian RC And you should fun it on 2 batteries or one because there are two connectors.
I use one 1800mAh battery that is connected with a Y-cable to both controllers
Sehr wunderbare Produktionsfreigabe! Ich habe das Video vom Testflug gesehen. Könnten Sie bitte nach der endgültigen Optimierung noch ein Einführungsvideo machen? Ich freue mich sehr darauf! Können Sie auch die gedruckten Dateien der Motorbasis und des Ruderwinkels weitergeben? Danke noch einmal!
No sure if you saw my other answer to one of your comments. The design didn't require any more updates. The link to the STL files for 3D printing are in the video description
This build is so clean I would honestly buy it
Thanks for this great feedback! What a funny idea to start a business… Lidl glider conversions for sale 😃😜
Yo hubiese instalado los Becs en la gacela atras del motor para que refrigeren.. Ingeniosa adaptacion!!!!
Thanks! For better cooling you could certainly put the ESCs into the nacelles. There were 2 reasons why I didn't do it. First: The ESCs don't get too hot. The max. temperature is typically around 60°C. Second: This thing is pretty much nose heavy. So every gram I could get behind the center of gravity (CG is at the position of the carbon tube) was helping me to avoid adding more weight in the tail. Greetings from Bavaria!
Very clean build, I would use foam safe CA on a lot of areas to reduce weight, slow down with the hot glue lol. Nice build!
Thanks! You are possibly right that I could be a little bit less generous with hot glue 😂 Nevertheless hot glue easily fills gaps which means I don't have to cut too precise (like for the carbon spar). But in other areas foam safe CA glue could easily be used 👍
Because these gliders are made of very flexible EPP not stiff and brittle EPS, using a hard and brittle adhesive like CA (Superglue) would NOT be a good choice. As the foam flexes the CA will crack away from it. Also "Foam Safe" glues are for EPS - with EPP you can use things like rubber/contact cements which contain toluene. Using them on EPS would give a gooey mess instantly!
Provided you make fairly neat fitting joints and scrape off any extrusions, hot glue makes a good and reasonably light job. Also 1 slight problem with EPP foamies is that there is often mold-release compound still coating the outside. This can make it difficult to get glues/tapes/adhesives to stick properly. You can try cleaning the mating surfaces with isopropyl alcohol or roughing them up with sandpaper but generally a good hot application of hot glue will slightly melt into the foam and produce a really solid bond.
And speaking of flexibility, you will notice that the builder has opted for slightly flexible props rather than the very stiff (and brittle) props used on racing quads. These are a little less efficient than the stiff ones but will take a LOT MORE heavy landings before they need replacing! 😉
Thanks for giving a lot better answer than I did 😜 I didn’t think of the effect of the brittle CA on the flexible EPP. 👍 Cheers!
@theoztreecrasher I have build a few of these, I used very little hot glue, some foam safe CA and epoxy, never have an issue.
@@rubenburgos6 I don't doubt what you say - BUT perhaps you don't crash your planes as much as us Old Farts do! 🤔😜😁
FYI if you coat that wing with box tape, you wont have to put a reinforcing rod into it, and it smooths out the wing. if you layer the tape to overlap towards the rear, you create more lift due to the stair casing affect of the layering. i used to do this with gliders and mount 0.49's on them and fly them during the early 2000's.
I am using packing tape a lot on my foam board builds to reinforce them. Never thought about using it on a foamy except for covering things like ESC in the wing. Need to try this. Do the layers work like a kind of KFm airfoil?
@@bavarian_rc it can if you layer it so that the top stepps towards the leading edge and the bottom steps towards the rear of the wind. you'll cause the top the drag and the bottom to slip. which in turn causes lift. also if you pull the tape while setting it onto the wing, you'll cause a slight tension on the wing, then when you do the 2nd side it will pull it back, which causes the wing to become very rigid.
Thanks a lot. Quite interesting effect. The way you explain it makes totally sense. Tension on both sides will in effect make it totally strong. I will definitely try it 👍
@@bavarian_rc another tip for those foam gliders, before you tape it, Sand it with an 80 grit sand paper.. you can alter the shape and smooth out the surface, and it will help the tape to stick really good.
@@bavarian_rc also i have to say, that your hatch idea, with the easy release was a really good one that i have not thought of.. which is very rare, seeing that i have been doing rc planes since the early 80's.. :)
The new version of the lidl glider looks so aerodynamic!
Looks like the product designer noticed that us crazy RC builders like the Lidl gliders. The new version is much better in its aerodynamic design, has a wider fuselage which makes it easier to get all the electronics inside and has a reduced wing/hstab incidence which is better for RC
@@bavarian_rc yeah but it flies way worse!
Really? I think the new 2021 version flies much better. Unfortunately the 2022 version is again the old one.
@@bavarian_rc we have been hanggliding with lidlgliders for a few years now.. the original is great for that but the new one really sucks... Feels and looks like the wing profile thickness has increased a lot which increases the overall resistance. With motorized versions you might not notice much difference
@@bavarian_rc yes I noticed the new 2022 one is the old one, bought a lot of them last week :-)
Fantastic work! lots of great tips.
Thanks, happy that you liked it and found some useful stuff in it.
Yes, nice clean build. I like it. Looking forward to flight video.
Thanks! I already had some flights with it and it works pretty well, just need to give it a bit more motor down thrust angle. Now all I need is better weather for getting some nice footage.
Fantastic build, great ideas and precision.
Thanks! Great that you liked it
Great video. I built a very similar Lidl twin a few years ago and it is still flying well and frequently now. I mounted my motors above the wing which seems good so it will be interesting to see if yours pitches up under power...
Thanks! I had some pitch up effects under power at the beginning. After some flights I found a motor down thrust of 2,5 degrees working quite well to compensate the effect. Another issue with mounting the motors under the wing is that the props are touching the ground when landing. By using the HQ props which have some flexibility I managed to avoid broken props. Check out the flight video to see how it behaves in the air: ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
Best instruction I´ve ever been seen!
Thanks a lot!
Great work. Please show the maiden flight!
Thanks! The flight video is here: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL
ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
For fine slices into the foam I'd prefer a soldiering iron with temperature control, which makes less fuzz, though, depending on the used glue (epoxy or CA) the dremel result might work better. Heat glue has some advantages, but only with specific materials.
The mess when working with the dremel is not as bad as it looks. The vacuum cleaner does the job. Maybe next time I try my hot knife. Should work similar to a soldering iron. On this type of foam I prefer hot glue or PU glue. With CA or Epoxy the results were not as good.
Esto definitivamente es un trabajo profesional, felicitaciones y un gran saludo desde Chile
Thanks a lot! Great that you liked it. All the best from Germany to Chile!
Thanks for video, could you please clarify where you put such big battery? I would like to be similar one.
Thanks for your feedback. The battery is installed right underneath the black canopy (together with the receiver). You could have a look at my Instagram account (instagram.com/bavarian.rc/) there I posted some pictures of the battery installation (posted in May 2022). If that doesn't work for you then check my mail adress in the channel impressum (in the channel info) and drop me an email. I will then send you pictures of my battery installation.
Very neat and clean work
Thanks! Great that you liked it!
Where's the flight footage? Seems incomplete without...
Don‘t worry it’s all there: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL
ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
very nice clean but how you land and not broke the plane? your propeller touch the ground
Thanks! You are right, the props touch the ground when landing. The HQ props I use have some flexibility and don‘t break. Even after more than 60 flights with my Twin Turbo I didn‘t have a single broken prop.
Mega gut gemacht💪🏻👌🏻
Danke!
Awesome 👌
Thanks 😊
@@bavarian_rc i have to tell you watching your video you inspired me to build this little one, i saw some other videos on youtube how to convert this baby into RC but none was as interesting as yours so thanks a lot for your video and willingness to share it with the rest of the world May the Force be with you 🖖 MfG aus NRW
Thanks a lot! It is positive feedback like yours that motivates me to go on making such content. The Twin Turbo Lidl is really the best Lidl conversion I have made so far. I fly it a lot as it performs just amazingly well. In case you haven't seen the flight video, have a look at it (ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html). You'll understand what I mean. Who would believe that a 7,99€ kids toy would fly like that. I have more than 100 flights with it and I never go flying without it. Schöne Grüße aus Bayern!
@Bavarian RC And for the servos you must buy how many normal and how many reverse?
In case I need to reverse a servo I do this in the settings of the transmitter. If your transmitter doesn‘t have this feature you can still use normal servos and just rotate the installation position if needed
Hi, @Bavarian RC What contoller do you recommend to use for this build? The cheap one.
That depends a bit on your motor setup. I used 18A controllers that I already had lying around. They get warm during flight but not more than 70 degrees. So no need form a bigger ESC but I would also not take a smaller one. I would say any cheap 18 to 20A controller would be fine
Great job, congratulations. Graupner Ultra 2806 2300kv motors are no longer for sale. What other engines would you recommend? Thank you very much
Thanks! Yes, luckily I still had some of the Graupner motors available. They work really well. I haven't tested any alternative, but I guess any other 2206 2300kv motor will work as long as it can take 3S. This is one that I found: Holybro Brushless QAV250 Motor (www.mybotshop.de/Holybro-Brushless-QAV250-Motor) - also available in CW and CCW which is quite nice as it compensates the torque on a twin. This one could also work: DYS FIRE FPV Racing Motor 2206-2300kV (www.rcheli-store.de/Quadcopters/FPV-Racer/FPV-Racter-Motors/DYS-FIRE-FPV-Racing-Motor-2206-2300kV.htm?shop=rcheli_en&SessionId=&a=article&ProdNr=DYS-FIRE-2300&t=15578&c=32452&p=32452). I hope this helps.
Are you going to fly it?
Sure! Flies like a charm. Check out the Flight Video: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL
ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
Thanks for video, nice!!! I did my Lidl Twin Turbo.
Thanks, I am happy that you liked my video. Did you build your Lidl with the same design that I used? If yes, how do you like flying it? It is still one of my favorite planes. Close to 100 flights now!
@@bavarian_rc I finished it only yesterday, I tried to do the same, only I used a magnet on the cabin. when the weather is suitable, I'll try how it flies. I also want to try stabilization in the receiver. I would send a photo, too bad it can't be done here.
I would really love to see your version. If you are on Instagram you could send me a message via my account (@bavarian.rc) or if you would like to send me a mail then check out my RUclips Channel Info. There is a link to my "Impressum" where you can find my mail adress.
I have been flying my Twin Turbo just yesterday and even with cold fingers it was so much fun. Wish you luck for the maiden flight.
This is awesome. So good 🎉👏
Thanks a lot! It was fun to build and is still fun to fly ... each and every time 😀
very nice build! 🙌🏼
Thanks, great that you liked it!
Bro can you make same but waterproof for me I want to buy from you
Hi, I‘d love to but believe me, my build pipeline is more than full 😆
@bavarian_rc bro what size is the plane I wanted to buy from online but all plane are small 50cm
Hi, the wingspan is 860mm, the overall length is 680mm
@bavarian_rc thank you
Dear sir great job. Can you please send me the link for the dremel that you use?
Thanks 😊 I have a Dremel 3000: www.dremel.com/de/de/p/dremel-3000-f0133000ju
I’m a bit confused by the new German model aircraft regulation. This build is about 580g. Does it mean I have to get a certification before I fly this plane? The regulation say that I don’t need certification for something less than 250g. In that case I would try to build something with smaller battery and single motor. But again, can someone clarify if my understanding is right?
As a simplified view: Every model that is heavier than 250g needs to have your eID (your registration) attached to it. If your model is heavier than 2kg or you are flying higher than 120m above ground you need a proof of knowledge ("Kenntnisnachweis"). For a complete overview check out this site: www.dmfv.aero/rund-ums-fliegen/einfach-sicher-fliegen/
Super Video - der Nachbau hat sehr gut geklappt.
Ich habe nur Probleme den 3S Akku 1100mah so zu plazieren, dass der Schwerpunkt stimmt.
Der Akku wiegt 110g und muss, damit der Schwerpunkt stimmt, fast mittig unter die Fläche. Das Heckservo ist wie bei Dir vebaut.
Wo hast Du den Akku?
Danke
Claus
Servus Claus. Vielen Dank für deine tolles Feedback. Ich habe den Akku vorne unter der Haube untergebracht. Damit ist er natürlich gnadenlos kopflastig. Da ich aber immer mit GPS Logger fliege, habe ich den ganz hinten am Leitwerk angebracht und krieg damit den Schwerpunkt schon fast hin. Ein paar Gramm Blei hab ich zusätzlich noch ans Höhenleitwerk geklebt. Schau mal auf meinem Instagram Kanal vorbei da hab ich auch mal Bilder vom Akku Einbau gepostet. Das war im Mai 2022. Bei meinem RUclips Video über den SM GPS Logger zeige ich wie ich den Logger am Heck befestige. Schau mal ob Dir das hilft. Bei weiteren Fragen gerne nochmal melden. Schöne Grüße Robert
@@bavarian_rc Danke Robert für die schnelle Antwort. Das nenne ich Service!! Ich habe den Rumpf unterhalb der Fläche ein bisschen geöffnet und den Akku nach hinten verfrachtet.
Abfluggewicht ist kanpp 400 Gramm. Hinten sind jetzt 10g Blei drin.
Ich bin auf den Erstfug gespannt. Melde mich nochmal.
Nochmals Danke.
Claus
Drücke die Daumen für den Erstflug!
@@bavarian_rc Der Erstfluo hat sehr gut geklappt. Nur der Motorsturzmuss noch ein wenig angepasst werden.
Danke nochmal für die tollen Videos.
Claus
Super, das freut mich sehr! Mit dem Motorsturz musste ich auch ein wenig experimentieren, bis es einigermaßen gepasst hat. Ganz neutral hab ich ihn nicht hinbekommen. Wenn ich das Gas sehr weit rausnehme, dann will er immer noch etwas wegsteigen. Aber das ist nicht schlimm. Viel Spaß noch mit dem Lidl. Ich fliege meinen sehr oft, vor allem weil die Größe so handlich ist und man viele verrückte Dinge mit ihm anstellen kann. Hat schon fast 200 Flüge hinter sich.
Robert
Excellent build
Thanks man!
long long does it fly with a 1800mah battery? or did you use another battery?
My average flight time with a 1800mAh 3s battery is between 5:30 and 6:00 minutes depending on the amount of full throttle phases.
Hey its a great video. I want to ask you few questions about the Glider
Like can we collaborate as I am member of AERO club
Just sent you a mail answer…
Très bon montage et transformation bien expliquée. Mais ça vole au final ? J'aurais bien aimé le voir faire quelques loopings...
Merci! If you haven’t seen my flight video you missed the best part 😃 Here is the link:
Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL
ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
Tolles Video. Und wo ist der Schwerpunkt bei dem Flieger??
Danke. Der Schwerpunkt ist 60mm hinter der Flügelvorderkante. Schau einfach mal in die Videobeschreibung, da gibt‘s noch mehr Infos und einen Link zu meinem Plan.
A job well done - very neat, especially with the lack of any space in the airframe (being solid foam). I would have liked to have seen a video of it flying. The motors look very powerful, possibly less 'poke' and no need for the carbon spars?
Thanks! Check out my flight video: LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL - Build Video
ruclips.net/video/YPsG6kbdEaI/видео.html The Power / Weight ratio is almost 2:1 … so going vertical is pure fun, just like the endless flat spins. I wouldn’t try without the carbon spar.
The original foam is quite bendy. It needs the carbon spars to avoid it folding up or just steering itself beyond the range of the controls.
Yes fully right! Without the carbon it would be too floppy.
@@bavarian_rc Yes, I guess I'm going to have to buy some for my recent Lidl purchases.
You won’t regret
Wow
A nice version glider 👍👍
Thanks! Also flies fantastic!
Hello i love this and want to copy you and wanted to ask wich Transmitter you are using
Hi, thanks a lot. I am using a Graupner MZ-24 transmitter
Thanks but this is out of my budget do you think that the flysky fs16 will also work ?
Very very very professional tools
Thanks buddy!
Super Umsetzung!!! Wo liegt der CG bei deinem Modell? Danke!
Danke! Der Schwerpunkt liegt 60mm hinter der Vorderkante des Flügels. Schau einfach mal in die Videobeschreibung, da sind noch mehr Infos.
The lidl glider is no longer on the market and I would like to do the same thing as you to test a twin engine glider. where can I find a glider with the same dimensions? congratulations for your work
Thanks! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue
Well done .looks the part 👏
Thanks!
Whats the name of this thing on the dremel at 2:21
Great vid 👍 😁
Thanks man! The thing on the dremel is called „Multipurpose Cutting Kit (565)“. I use it together with a „Carving Bit (193)“
Dis almost the same thing last year---it will fly well!
Oh yes 👍🏻
How will you land without breaking the props?
Hi, the props I use have some flexibility. During around 175 flights I didn’t have a single broken prop. I use 2x HQ 3-blade 5x4,3 or 2x T-Motor T 5146 Clear Red. Both work great. The T-Motor props have a bit more punch.
Awesome! Subscribed! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks! Great that you liked it! … and thanks for subscribing 😃
Schön sauber verarbeitet🥰
Danke! Fliegt auch echt gut 👍🏻
@@bavarian_rc ....hast Du schon ein Video dazu? , Bitte Link schicken.
Leider noch nicht… dauert noch etwas
@@bavarian_rc ok🤩
What’s the benefit of using carbon tube vs carbon rod?
If you compare a carbon tube and a carbon rod of the same weight (meaning rod with a smaller diameter than the tube) then the tube is much stronger (stiffer) than the rod. So in the end the benefit is to save weight.
CG is my concern other than that very excellent build
Yes, this thing is a bit nose heavy. Therefore I moved the elevator servo to the back and also installed my GPS Logger close to the tail. With that setup it balances with just 5g more of balancing weight glued to the tail.
why not use hot knife instead of the Dremel less mess and way clear lines??
Good idea! Never tried with a hot knife. I will give it a try next time. At least for some of the cuts it could work well. Removing all the material from the fuselage could be a bit tricky.
No way!! I'm building the same thing!! Twin lidl glider!!
Ha, that‘s funny! What motors do you plan to put on it?
@@bavarian_rc 1407 3600kv brother hobby
I used thin carbon strips to reinforce everything, and used gorilla glue/ugu por to glue them in. Why did you take out the dihedral? What benefits does it give you?
Thanks for the info
The dihedral leads to a self stabilizing effect. I was looking for high maneuverability with very high roll rates. The dihedral would counteract to this. If you would go for a very light thermal glider you would want to have dihedral for stabilizing the plane while circling in the thermals.
Grat job man
Thanks 😊
Needs landing gear attached to the engine mounts ?
No need for a landing gear. Even if the props touch the ground on landing I have had no broken props so far. The HQ props I used have some flexibility
How can you land that plane without destroying the propellers?
The HQ props I use have some flexibility. After almost 90 flights I have not a single broken prop.
Vielen Dank
Supper anleitung, habe mich beschlossen gleich nachzumachen, fand die idee echt super für meinen sohn was unkaputbares zu basteln !!!
Könten Sie mir evtl , tipts zu Remote einstellungen schreibem , ob motoren auf dem gleichen kanal liegen und ob die beim fliegen wenden noch zusätzlich separat gesteuert werden !? Unsere erster Flieger 😁👍
Vielen Dank für das positive Feedback. Bei mir sind die beiden Motoren auf jeweils einem eigenen Kanal und dann über einen Mischer kombiniert. Zusätzlich habe ich noch differential thrust, d.h. ich kann mit dem Seitenruder Kanal einen Motor abbremsen und den anderen auf Drehzahl lassen. Das führt dann zum Beispiel zu den lustigen flat spins (siehe mein Flugvideo vom Twin Turbo Lidl). Wenn das euer erster Flieger ist, dann muss ich euch aber auch warnen. Meine Konfiguration ist ziemlich übermotorisiert und auch die Querruder sind ziemlich groß um maximale Agilität zu haben. Das ist so in der Form nicht wirklich Anfänger tauglich. Solltet ihr schon genügend Flugerfahrung haben, dann ist das natürlich kein Problem. Bei weiteren Fragen einfach melden.
Danke für ausführliche Antwort, das Flug Video habe ich auch angesehen, fand echt super, das Model ist wirklich agil und schnell müste ich nachher auch feststellen 🤣🤣🤣 aber mit anderen motoren denke könnte mann auch die Geschwindigkeit etwas drosseln oder mit dem regler , bin erlich gesagt fast fertig mit dem Modell und bräuchte evtl . noch paar Tips zu Qklappen auschlägen und weiteren Einstellungen habe Gr MZ-24 , wenn Sie mir da noch paar Tips zu Agilität Drosselung von Q ruder oder Regler Einstellungen geben würden, wäre 👍
Fahre selbst Endurance ode E-boote 🤣 ist doch etwas anders .
MfG
@@bavarian_rc Regler habe ich von Graupner S3082.BEC, gleiche Motoren, Graupner Gr 12 , E-max servos MG x2 und eine normale analog , Sender MZ-24 , lipos 2S und 3S zu Auswahl, rest genau so wie in dem BauVideo außer das ich mir die ganze zeit überlege noch wie Ich den Flügel abnehmbar machen könnte ohne Stabilität zu beantragen 🤔 , alle 3d druckteile.
Ps' anderen BauVideos auch shon alle angesehen , sehr gründliche präzise und saubere Verarbeitung - wirklich Toll'
Ok, wenn der Flieger schon fast fertig ist, dann muss der auch in die Luft 😉 Ich würde dann halt nicht mit Vollgas fliegen. Ich schicke Dir mal ein paar meiner Einstellungen, dann hast Du einen Anhaltspunkt um gegebenenfalls dann alles etwas weniger aggressiv einzustellen. Erst mal zur Kanalbelegung an meinem Graupner GR-12. Ich habe auf Kanal 1 den ESC vom rechten Motor, Kanal 2: Querruder links, Kanal 3: Höhenruder, Kanal 4: Querruder rechts, Kanal 5: Telemetrie, Kanal 6 ESC vom linken Motor.
Bei beiden ESC's nach Anleitung den Weg einlernen (also Vollgas und Nullstellung)
Ausschläge der Querruder (gemessen ganz innen beim Rumpf): 13mm hoch, 12mm runter mit 70% Expo. Ausschlag Höhenruder (gemessen ganz innen bevor die Schräge hochgeht): 10mm hoch und 9mm runter mit 40% Expo.
Die Ausschläge würde ich für zahmere Flugeigenschaften auf jeweils 50-60% reduzieren. Wichtig ist das hohe Expo beim Querruder, da er um die Mittellage herum sonst sehr nervös wird.
Im Menü "freier Mischer" einen Mischer von Kanal 1 auf Kanal 6 einrichten mit 100% (dadurch geht der linke Motor synchron mit dem rechten Motor mit).
Falls Du Differential Thrust haben willst, einen freien Mischer von Kanal 4 (eigentlich Seitenruder) auf Kanal 1 (also Motor rechts) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder rechts der rechte Motor runter geregelt wird. In gleicher Weise einen weiteren freien Mischer von Kanal 4 auf Kanal 6 (also linker Motor) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder links der linke Motor runter geregelt wird. Die beiden Mischer für Differential Thrust habe ich bei mir noch auf einen Schalter gelegt um das ganze ein- und ausschalten zu können.
Der Regler ist vergleichbar mit meinem, hat aber keine Telemetrie, was kein Problem ist. Die MZ-24 habe ich auch, schöner Sender!👍 Ich betreibe den Flieger mit 3S 1800 mAh. Damit bekomme ich ca. 5:30 Minuten Flugzeit wenn ich nur ab und zu Vollgas gebe und sonst mit ca. 50-60% Gas fliege. Mit 2S habe ich das noch nicht versucht. Damit wäre auf jeden Fall der Schwerpunkt leichter zu erreichen. Ich muss meinen GPS Logger ganz hinten vor dem Seitenleitwerk befestigen um den Schwerpunkt zu erreichen (60mm von der Flügelvorderkante).
Zu den Motoren noch: Ich hatte meine zunächst mit zu wenig Sturz eingebaut und habe dann später die Motoren so lange weiter nach unten gekippt bis ich bei Lastwechsel keine starken Auf- und Ab-Bewegungen mehr hatte. Die Motoren sollten also ca. 1,5 Grad (gegenüber der Profilsehne) nach unten geneigt sein. Ich habe mir hierzu eine 3D gedruckte keilförmige Scheibe (in der Größe des Motors) unter die Motoren gelegt. Kannst aber auch einfach Unterlegscheiben dazwischen packen bis der Winkel stimmt.
Wichtig ist noch bei den Propellern welche zu nehmen die etwas flexibel sind (so wie meine HQ props), sonst brechen die Propeller bei jeder Landung. Die HQ Props haben fast 100 Flüge hinter sich und sind noch nie gebrochen.
Die Flügel abnehmbar machen geht sicher, bringt halt Zusatzgewicht mit sich. Da der Flieger sehr klein ist, habe ich alles fest verklebt.
Ach ja, noch ne Frage: Welchen Lidl Flieger hast Du als Basis genommen? Den von 2022 oder von 2021? Ich frage deshalb weil der 2021 Flieger (den hab ich verwendet) ein besseres (halbsymmetrisches) Flügelprofil hat und weniger Einstellwinkel-Differenz zwischen Höhenleitwerk und Flügel (was prinzipiell auch besser ist). Meine ganzen Angaben beziehen sich auf dieser Version von 2021. Der 2022 Flieger war wie die früheren Versionen von 2020 und die Jahre davor mit einem Profil mit gerader Unterseite ausgestattet und deutlich mehr Einstellwinkel-Differenz. Wenn Du diese Version hast musst Du evtl. eine Einstellungen anpassen, aber das wird sich im Flug zeigen. Ich hab auch schon einige Lidl Flieger auf der Basis 2022 umgebaut, die gehen auf jeden Fall auch gut. Bei höheren Geschwindigkeiten gefällt mir aber die 2021 Version besser.
So jetzt hast Du erst mal einiges zu Lesen 😁Schöne Grüße und viel Erfolg.
👍, ? die Verkabelung der zwei BEC's Regler zum Empfänger !????
Bei meinem Graupner GR12 Empfänger habe ich auf Kanal 1 den ESC vom rechten Motor, auf Kanal 6 den ESC vom linken Motor.
Bei meiner Graupner MZ-24 Fernsteuerung habe ich dann im Menü "freier Mischer" einen Mischer von Kanal 1 auf Kanal 6 eingerichtet mit 100% (dadurch geht der linke Motor synchron mit dem rechten Motor mit).
Um dann noch Differential Thrust zu haben, habe ich einen freien Mischer von Kanal 4 (eigentlich Seitenruder) auf Kanal 1 (also Motor rechts) mit 85% so einrichten, dass bei Seitenruder rechts der rechte Motor runter geregelt wird. In gleicher Weise habe ich einen weiteren freien Mischer von Kanal 4 auf Kanal 6 (also linker Motor) mit 85% so eingerichtet, dass bei Seitenruder links der linke Motor runter geregelt wird. Die beiden Mischer für Differential Thrust habe ich bei mir noch auf einen Schalter gelegt um das ganze ein- und ausschalten zu können.
Ich hoffe, das hat Deine Frage beantwortet. Falls nicht, einfach nochmal melden.
Boh, ist bestimmt ne Super Ansteuerung der beiden Brushless.
Aber geht das nicht einfacher?
Y bzw. V- Kabel an Thrust, je einen BEC an V- Kabel, an einem BEC davon das rote Kabel abtrennen und Plus und Minus tauschen damit dieser Brushless gegenläufig läuft.
Hatte ich mal bei einer Trans All so gemacht. O.K....ein Motor läuft dann etwas später, kaum merkbar !, an.
Beide Motore laufen dann immer zur gleichen Zeit gleich Stark, das hat mir aber voll und ganz gereicht.
Wozu noch unterschiedliche Drehzahlen je Seite?, wozu noch Zu und Abschaltbar ? bei einem LIDL Flieger.....
Hi, ja natürlich geht das auch einfacher mit Y-Kabel. Ich wollte aber unbedingt Differential Thrust, denn wenn man die beiden Motoren per "Seitenruder"-Funktion mit unterschiedlicher Drehzahl ansteuern kann, dann sind damit ziemlich verrückte Manöver möglich. Schau Dir mal das Flugvideo von meinem Twin Turbo Lidl an. Diese extrem schnellen Flachtrudel-Manöver gehen nur mit Differential Thrust. Dass ich das Differential Thrust noch ein und ausschalten kann braucht's nicht wirklich, war eher eine Vorsichtsmaßnahme falls ich beim Programmieren was verbockt habe, dann kann ich's einfach deaktivieren.
Brilliant!
Thanks mate! It was really fun to build it
What a super built ! But I have one question, where do you put your battery ?
Thanks a lot! The battery is installed in the cavity in the front of the fuselage together with the receiver. I just posted a picture of the installed battery on my Instagram account (bavarian.rc)
superbe. ou est ce qu'on peut trouver les supports pour les moteurs?
Merci. Here is the link to the motor mount: www.thingiverse.com/thing:1096211/files
You can also find the link to the motor mount (power pod) in the video description together with all the other links to my STL parts and plans. You might also like the flight video of my Twin Turbo Lidl. Just check out my channel.
Nice build and look great!
How it's fly? Do you have any video?
Thanks!!! Flies fantastic. Just had to give the motors 2.5 degrees more down-thrust. I already made some flights with onboard camera. Flight video will come but will need a bit more time. Check my Instagram account bavarian.rc … I will upload some clips in the next days
How did you wire up the receiver to get differential thrust and 3 servos to a 6 channel receiver and how did you configure the transmitter for this aswell
Hi, the wiring on the receiver is as follows: 1: Right ESC, 2: Left Aileron, 3: Elevator, 4: Right Aileron, 5: Telemetry, 6: Left ESC, in the receiver map channel 5 -->4 (to have the right aileron on 4). Configuration of the transmitter: Mix channel 1 --> 6 (curve: -100% to +100%) (for throttle), Mix channel 4 --> 1 (curve: -85% to +85%), Mix channel 4 --> 6 (curve: +85% to -85%). You might need to invert the curves if the wrong motor is spinning when applying rudder input. Be careful when trying this - always remove the props! It was a pain until I got this working for the first time but finally it works. Hope this helps!
@@bavarian_rc yeah that's really helpful and I know your twin motor design is pretty quick but do you think there would be enough thrust with just one on the front
One motor will also work fine. Have a look at my other Lidl glider conversion videos. There is also one with a single motor in the nose
Very nice! I take years....
Thanks 😊🙌
Excellent video! Where did you get the pliers that bend the pushrod ends?
Thanks! I used Irvine Super Z-Bend Plier w/Nav.Pin. I found them in a German online shop but they are also available in the UK: themodelshop.net/irvine-super-z-bend-plier-wnavpin-168929-p.asp
Do you have links somewhere where I can find part numbers
Most of the stuff is listed in the video description. You should be able to find with the info given there. If you look for something specific, let me know
I'm in Canada, so where can I buy one of these gliders. A brand name would be helpful.
Hi! There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Yamara: jamara-shop.com/Pilo-XL-Foam-Hand-Launch-glider-EPP-wing-orange-fuselage-blue
I hope this one is available in Canada. If you find it anywhere else then let me know as I am often asked about where to get the plane. Especially if you find the V2 which is and improved version of the V1 with half symmetrical air foil and a wider fuselage. Unfortunately Lidl sold it only in 2021 and went back to the V1 this year.
would it be possible to see lipo radio installation and receiver
Sure, could you „direct mail“ me on my Instagram account: bavarian.rc If you are not on Instagram let me know, then I will find other way to send you the pictures.
Gute Begleitmusik.
Danke!
This is so cool- I'd heard of these conversions, and tried finding one at a Virginia Lidl store, but maybe it's a seasonal thing. Anyone know where or if it's available from Amazon or other retail?
Thanks! The Lidl gliders are on sale at Lidl only once per year. In Europe this is around June, July or August depending on the country. There are 2 versions of the Lidl glider. The 2021 version (also called V2) which I used to build my Twin Turbo and the V1 (2022 and 2020 and before). The V2 I haven‘t found yet anywhere else, but the V1 is available from Jamara where it is called Pilo XL: www.amazon.de/JAMARA-Schaumwurfgleiter-2in1-Pilo-orange/dp/B08JVGJNB6?th=1
@@bavarian_rc awesome! appreciate the response, and subbed your channel- neat stuff 😁
Thanks a lot for joining 😃
What’s the tool that you cut the servo holes on the form?
It is a Dremel 3000 with a Dremel Carving Bit (193) + Multipurpose Cutting Kit (565). You can check the video description to get more info on the material and tools I used.
I hope all components are availible at Lidl!
I fear not but it would certainly boost Lidl to the next level 😂
Nice job
Thanks!!!
Hallo Bavarian RC,
kannst du mir sagen wie ich auf den linken Stick "Gas UND Störklappen" drauf bekomme für einen Motor-Segler.. Von 1 bis 100 soll er Gas geben und runter von -1 bis -100 soll er die Störklappen rauslassen. Ich weiss nicht wie ich das umsetzen kann mit zum Beispiel einem 6 Kanal Spektrum empfänger ..... kannst du mir da helfen
deine Videos sind absolut informativ , lehrreich und perfekt geschnitten
danke und gruss
david
Erst mal danke für dein positives Feedback. Freut mich sehr! Nun zu Deiner Frage: ich kenne mich mit Spektrum Anlagen nicht aus aber prinzipiell würde ich das so machen: linken Stick auf einen nicht benutzten Kanal zuweisen. Diesen Kanal mit 2 separaten Mischern auf jeweils Motor und Störklappe mischen. Einmal mit ner Kurve die von 1 bis 100 geht. Unter 1 also keine Mischung. Und der andere Mischer der von -1 bis -100 geht und über 0 keine Mischung hat. Ist etwas kompliziert müsste aber gehen vorausgesetzt die Spektrum Anlage kann solche freien Mischer. Ich würde aber eher Motor auf dem Stick lassen und die klappen über einen 3-Stufen Schalter steuern. So hab ich das bei mir. Manche legen auch den Motor auf den 3 Stufen Schalter und die Klappen auf den Stick. Hoffe das hilft dir weiter
@@bavarian_rc tausend dank .... so mache ich das..... und zur not lege ich die Störklappen auf einen 3wege schalter..... danke
Viel Erfolg!
Cant see a link to the maiden flight?
Check out my flight video: Flight Video - LIDL glider RC conversion - TWIN TURBO LIDL
ruclips.net/video/9_H6sVcMOhw/видео.html
kann man das auch mit nem 2018 Flieger machen? Die Konfiguration des Fliegers ist ja änlich, also Gewicht, Maßen und Aufbau...
Also prinzipiell geht das auch mit nem 2018er Flieger. Schwerpunkt ist gleich, die meisten Maße können annähernd übernommen werden… aber der aktuelle Flieger hat ein paar echte Vorteile: halbsymmetrisches Profil (bessere Flugleistung, geht besser im Rückenflug), geringere Einstellwinkeldifferenz (entspricht eher dem was man bei einem RC Modell nehmen würde), breiterer Rumpf im vorderen Bereich (damit passen Akku und Empfänger besser rein). Damit hat der Flieger deutlich ausgewogenere Flugeigenschaften. Evtl. lohnt es sich bis Mai/Juni zu warten bis der Flieger wieder bei Lidl zu haben ist.
@@bavarian_rc Aha, danke dann für die Info! Ich werde vermutlich mir einen etwas neueren dann kaufen, um das Modell etwas moderner zu gestalten...trotzdem vielen dank! Könnte ich vielleicht auch die Daten für die ganzen Maßen haben, also wie tief ich bohren muss oder wie lange ich was ausschneiden muss?
Schau mal in die Video Beschreibung, da ist ein Link auf meine Pläne drin und viele weitere Infos. Die Aushöhlung im Rumpfvorderteil ist nicht vermaßt, die richtet sich ein wenig nach der Größe des Akkus. Es sollte aber ein Wandstärke von rund 8mm nicht unterschritten werden. Sag Bescheid wenn Dir noch Maße oder Infos fehlen. Viel Spaß beim bauen!
@@bavarian_rc Perfekt, alles gefunden! Vielen dank für die Infos!
👍🏻