Save $700 on Ford F150 Crankshaft Sensor Replacement
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2021
- Detailed instructions for replacing your crankshaft position sensor. This is for 3.5L V6 Ford Ecoboost Engines from 2011-2021 with or without turbo chargers. This issue can throw Codes P0335 and P0018.
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Excellent video. You told me everything is needed to hear. You did not ramble ... as so many do. Your camera angle were excellent and you actually told me what's I was looking at. You are an excellent presenter ... keep it up.
There's nothing worse than a repair video that skips a set or leaves you hanging with a question. Thanks for the kind words! 👊
I usually find it hard to watch fellow mechanics but yours was TOTALLY different! I found it easy to follow and listen to. Amazing video!
Thanks brother. I always try to make videos that I wouldn't mind watching... Sometimes it works out and sometimes - well... You know!!!
Totally understandable there and a great way to think about full content. Great job!
From the outset I was a bit nervous re: what to expect/presentation, but SERIOUSLY you are an excellent educator! The repair info is top-notch, but far and away your manner of presentation is absolutely outstanding. Very well done!
Thanks Scott! There are two things that guide me... First, there are a glut of videos out there that only cover about 1/2 of a repair. I know how frustrating that can be... Second, I can't believe what dealers and other shops charge for simple parts replacement these days... Yes, there are difficult jobs (ie. pulling a trans) but these little sensors are not in that category. However, the manufacturers hide parts and make things intentionally difficult because they do not refine their designs. All that said, with a little patience and a few tools, you can save yourself thousands of dollars over the course of your car/truck ownership.
You got a little something on your nose there buddy
Glad to see your back making car repair videos.
So often I can't film because I have to get through the repair as quickly as possible... It's always fun to get the camera out for one where I can take my time and explain it to someone who may need the info to keep their driver going.
Good ole GP working on the Ferd!! 👍😎👍
Loved the circles on the bolts!!!! Subbed!!!
Great repair Greg. Good to see a video from you. Trust all is well with you. Take care
Doing great Rich! I hope all is well in your world too!!!
Great video, excellent details. Thank you!
Thank you guys .. im about to do this.. not in a garage... outside winter time 🤦🤷♂️ not to many videos tell me exactly what im looking for and what not to do .. thanks fellas 👌 🙏
Good luck... The re-install is 10x harder than the removal. The cold will make it a challenge for sure. I've done my fair share of work on my back in the frozen shit, so I feel your pain brother.
I’m in the middle of doing this job and omg!! Dropped my 7mm socket in bell housing, had to drop the starter and make a magnet to fish it out. Woosah
GREAT VIDEO GUYS!
Yessss back on the cars!!!
Oh yeah!
great video, only thing I can add is that the second bolt on the heat shield is a stud, 15 mm on the rear nut. hold that in place wile you take off the 10mm nut so it doest pull the stud out...frustrating when that happens.
"I want to kick those guys in the ding ding" 🤣🤣 Also, your mm guesses are better than my inch guesses lol Missing vids like these from the Ghia times...
Great video form excellent info I'ma try I'll let u know how it goes
hi there at Greg's Garage. i have a question about the pick-up in the video "Guitar Build - Part 19 - Winding the Custom Guitar Pickup" can you make a drawing of the pick-up and how it works or tell me where I can find more about this type of pick-up. thanks in advance, greets Ton de Wit. love youre video's
That's crappy that you had to replace that before 100k! Good to know though. Those flappers are all over the place on eco boosts. Glad to see I'm not the only one who tries way too hard to leave as many things in place as opposed to removing everything to get to where you need to. A blessing and a curse.
The sensors in modern engines are good for 50-60k and then they start to poop out. They used to be on the front of the crank... Now they moved them to the back hidden under a set of turbos. It went from a 5 minute repair to about 6 hours in "the book."
Always fun watching someone else do these fixes...great to see you 👍
Good to see you too! Hope all is well brother.
Great video!! Was this sensor 1 bank A? Thank you
Now wasn't that fun Greg....Welcome to my world mate...They all have the stench of Europe it their design now and because they pack 'em in and cover it all up with shields and covers ,the heat really takes it's toll on the wires and connectors and when they crumble just makes you day...Cheers mate...You done good.
Thanks Ziggy! I definitely feel your pain... I've opened up enough well designed computers and other do-dads to know that if the designer has serviceability in mind, they can make everything EASY to service... If they're lazy, they can make it all but impossible to work through the puzzle... Tell me I'm wrong here, but they could put this sensor on the BOTTOM side of the flywheel and it would take all of 30 seconds to change... They're just LAZY.
@@GregsGarage Absolutely.
Nice to watch this video. What was the code in that sensor
So when installing the new sensor do i have to put it in the little slot or does it just sit on top of it?
What tools did you end up using from the beginning shot? It looked like just the extensions with the sockets.
Wow. Good job Greg. Good thing you didnt have to go it alone. Lol. The buddy systems always best. Lol. You go, we go. Lol. Bravo. 🍺🌄
Agreed!
Nice job Greg. Very frustrating type of job.
Thanks Randy! If I just had tiny little hands it would all be easier! :D
What happens when you put the screw back in the sensor (to hold the sensor in place but the screw hole is stripped. What can be done? Can anything be done? Or does it not matter?
Thank you . Video was so much help !
Hey Greg what way does it face I put mine in and rpm ain't moving just cranking.
Hey Greg what was going on with the truck that made you have to do that. I have a 14 and it started at 75k doing this longer crank b4 fire then going down 95 other day at 83k now it shot two codes and cylinder 6 misfiring and had no power only could drive to get off the road like 15 mph.
What about code p054c 2014 f150 fx4 ecoboost? Thanks again.
how did ya get the sensor back in without taking the trubo off
Hey great video. But how hard was the sensor bolt to start back. I’m there now and have Ben having no luck. This is day two. Can’t get the bolt to line up.
It is difficult. I believe I talked about how I slid the down the face and into the hole. That was paramount to getting it back together.
Kick 'em in the ding ding!!!
True dat!
How many CAMshaft sensors does a 2013 Ford F150 ecoboost have and how does it look. I've seen straight ones and ones that have the "clinton kink"? 😂.
Did you take out and install the new sensor through the wheel well or from underneath the truck?
Yes
Great video. Can I ask how u got the dropped bolt out??
With my hand... It was TIGHT. Hindsight, I probably could have used a magnet.
@GregsGarage oh OK, I didn't know it was that shallow in there. I thought it went all the way to the bottom of the bellhousing. Thank you for your reply. I'm gonna tackle tomorrow. Dropped socket :( Fun..fun..
@@shanerich9233 It got caught in between the flywheel and the housing... It was VERY touchy.
@GregsGarage OMG 😲 I get it now ..dam dude..my luck my socket is all the way at the bottom lol
Question ... The shop guide says this is a 5 hour repair ... It seems that you managed this "first time" in well under 5 hours.
Do you think the "Chilton Time" of 5 hours is highly exaggerated and what do you think it really should be?
I believe this one took an hour (maybe just over). I was shooting video, which always takes a bit longer... However, I did NOT follow the shop guide. Most manuals tell you to remove the turbo section of the exhaust along with some of the suspension. Had I done that it would have been 5 hours, no question... The reason I made the video was to show that you could do the repair without removing major sections of the exhaust and suspension... The truly aggrevating piece is that Ford could have clocked this sensor 10 degrees lower on the bell housing and a repair tech could access it from under the car. The repair would likely take about 15 minutes if that were the case... Side note... Dealers make 75% of their revenue from repairs. Do you think Ford has any reason to make the repair more accessible?
On a 2015 ford transit 250 do you have to remove the turbo to get to the crankshaft sensor?
I don't know the transit. I suspect it's very similar to the F-150 since they are essentially the same components. You'll just have to see if you can get past all the turbo and exhaust without having to remove them.
I have accelerate problem in ford f150 fx4 2014 v6 3.5. I changed sensor cam and crank still same code P0016 and p0299. I don't know what is the problem. There is not rattle noise on start up engine run smooth. Jst a metal crack noise when i prk. But when i drive no. Problem at all. Please help me out
Same. Did you figure out what it was?
Stretched timing chain
Was that the intake or exhaust cam shaft sensor. I understand there is one of each
Neither. It's the crank sensor
that looked like an engineer who never worked on anything in his life designed. thats why i love my bicycle :)
No doubt. They design modern motors so they can pack more external junk onto them, not for serviceability. With most folks relying on the dealership for everything, the service techs can only get through a few repairs a day... It's amazing they can keep up with demand.
The mechanic told me he had to take the turbo off to get to the crankshaft sensor. $1200 ford transit 250 3.5l
That's what the book tells you that you have to do.
That crankshaft sensor install on your F-150 was no walk in the park. It looked like access was 75% of the challenge (and fishing out dropped parts). Does make you want to slap the Ford designer. Doing it yourself is definitely worth the $700 saved, even if it took an whole afternoon.
Thanks Tom! There's no doubt - skilled mechanics earn their money EVERY DAY. This work isn't hard, but it is challenging and if it doesn't go as planned, you could be without a driver.
Did you have to relearn 5he sensor
As an engineer in a different field I will not defend Ford designers, but often the bean counters have the final say in certain matters.
The bigger problem I think is that car mfrs. These days designs things to last just the warranty period, after that they don't give a diddley squat.
I agree... Budget is usually the judge, jury and executioner. I would argue that locating a part like this where it is accessible is a cost-free decision.
Good or bad, I decided to buy the 100k extended warranty from Ford and guess what..? It doesn't cover these sensors!!! Oh well... I guess that's why I keep sharp on modern motor repairs. Thanks for checking out the video!!!
What ever happened to tomswonderfullworld
Tom is working full time machining guitar tools for my company SkyScraper Guitars. He's told me several times he doesn't have time to make videos... I always enjoyed the videos he made.
That’s the camshaft sensor
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