Question i bought this and have wired everything up except the back tail lights yet tried to turn on the head light but it doesn't come on but the horn works which is on the same switch does all the lights have to be wired for the lights to come on?
Is it required to mount these to the frame, or is it not necessary? Also, the one I'm looking at has a negative input and a negative output. Can the thd negative wires just be tired together with the negative wire coming from the battery?
@ 2:44 you mention the red batter positive is always hot, and you want a switched hot. 1. What's the reason for that? Is it to prevent the dc-dc converter to not draw power when bike is not in use? I'd assumet he drain would be very low anyway? 2. Do the hot red leads goiong to the dc-dc converter need a fuse?
I have a 20 amp, 12 V. DC to DC step down. My horns are only require about six amps. Are the 6 amp horns safe to connect to a 20 amp twelve volt source? Do the horns only draw as many amps as they need from the converter?
In the beginning stages of klx250sm conversion to EV, Australian regulations state that if main battery is depleted, vehicle lights must still have source of power, its a car rule that carries over to bikes. I was going to use one of these to charge the 12v lithium battery currently in the gas engine oem bike, im concerned about backfeed, running 12v into the output of this unit shows 12v approx on input. Any thoughts Zenner diode maybe ?
ahhhhh, So thats why my KTM is wired like that. Its super annoying. I would just not do it. Do you need to get the bike inspected? I would avoid having 2 batteries if you can. more crap to go wrong.
I found that the 10A version of the step down was not able to drive my dual Hella horns. They have a much more capable 30A version that works better. The draw on the battery from the 30A step down only uses current when in use.
Hey how's it going, I have 3000w qs138 70h v3, will a em150sp along with a 200-240 amp continuous current battery get me 50 miles an hour? My front sprocket is 14T and my rear sprocket is somewhere between 42-49T. What controller do you recommend for such speeds? The frame I am using is a 2016 Tao Tao 125cc Db17. Thanks!
@@Corn-ped thanks for the reply! What battery do you recommend to get to this speed on a budget? Do I just need something able to run 150amps continuously? Also do you plan on doing a video on how to tune your controller? It would be really helpful! You probably one of the best RUclipsrs who actually cares about his fans! Most people don’t even reply!
Yeah man. I m working on a programming video. But I want to understand everything first. I feel like I get most of it. But somethings are weird. Hit up Allen at Amorge. They made great batteries for affordable prices.
I also have a 3 wire 72v to 12v dc converter, do you think i have any issues with common ground, as on the 12v side i have a 12v lithium battery as required by the rules as per below, does anyone know if the 4 wire versions on amazon are common ground ?
@@Corn-ped But if I have a load of 6 amps at 12 volts on the load side. Would the amperage draw on the 48 volt feeder of the DC-DC-converter side not be different?
@Corn-ped I see. Just to understand the fuse on the 12 Volt side protects the connected accessories against current surges/shots. But on the 48v feeder side a fuse would protect the DC-DC converter or the 48v battery source?
Hi i have votol em150 motor qs138 90h and i try sort out programing controller only when i driving and paset 60amp cintroler cut off power then i restest it and i can start drive im no sure what i doing wrong thanks Michael
@@Corn-ped i check voktage when i drive becouse i have active screen from bms voktage going down about 1.5v only i think this is isue with controller becouse i have votol em150s and my bush bar is 250A controler take only 130A i think there is problem my bike is havy chasis from suzuki gsxr
Very helpfull video for a newbie....Corn does turnlight needs a extern blinker, or does the Votol come with build in blinkers??
Great work, been lurking on M.A. and keeping up with progress on there.
Thanks!
would i be safe wiring a key switch/ on off switch inbetween the battery and the converter power?
Yeah totally
Question i bought this and have wired everything up except the back tail lights yet tried to turn on the head light but it doesn't come on but the horn works which is on the same switch does all the lights have to be wired for the lights to come on?
you do not need everything wired for it to work. Just make sure your lights are grounded.
Is it required to mount these to the frame, or is it not necessary? Also, the one I'm looking at has a negative input and a negative output. Can the thd negative wires just be tired together with the negative wire coming from the battery?
@ 2:44 you mention the red batter positive is always hot, and you want a switched hot.
1. What's the reason for that? Is it to prevent the dc-dc converter to not draw power when bike is not in use? I'd assumet he drain would be very low anyway?
2. Do the hot red leads goiong to the dc-dc converter need a fuse?
I have a 20 amp, 12 V. DC to DC step down. My horns are only require about six amps. Are the 6 amp horns safe to connect to a 20 amp twelve volt source? Do the horns only draw as many amps as they need from the converter?
Yes that is safe. They will only draw 6a.
In the beginning stages of klx250sm conversion to EV, Australian regulations state that if main battery is depleted, vehicle lights must still have source of power, its a car rule that carries over to bikes. I was going to use one of these to charge the 12v lithium battery currently in the gas engine oem bike, im concerned about backfeed, running 12v into the output of this unit shows 12v approx on input. Any thoughts Zenner diode maybe ?
ahhhhh, So thats why my KTM is wired like that. Its super annoying. I would just not do it. Do you need to get the bike inspected? I would avoid having 2 batteries if you can. more crap to go wrong.
Dziękujemy.
Thank you do much! Have a great day!
I found that the 10A version of the step down was not able to drive my dual Hella horns. They have a much more capable 30A version that works better. The draw on the battery from the 30A step down only uses current when in use.
Oof that's a lot. I'd get a different style horn if it was me
Hey how's it going, I have 3000w qs138 70h v3, will a em150sp along with a 200-240 amp continuous current battery get me 50 miles an hour? My front sprocket is 14T and my rear sprocket is somewhere between 42-49T. What controller do you recommend for such speeds? The frame I am using is a 2016 Tao Tao 125cc Db17. Thanks!
yeah I think the 150 would get you there no problem. I am getting to about 60 with the EM200 and a 72v 250A battery.
@@Corn-ped thanks for the reply! What battery do you recommend to get to this speed on a budget? Do I just need something able to run 150amps continuously? Also do you plan on doing a video on how to tune your controller? It would be really helpful! You probably one of the best RUclipsrs who actually cares about his fans! Most people don’t even reply!
Yeah man. I m working on a programming video. But I want to understand everything first. I feel like I get most of it. But somethings are weird. Hit up Allen at Amorge. They made great batteries for affordable prices.
I also have a 3 wire 72v to 12v dc converter, do you think i have any issues with common ground, as on the 12v side i have a 12v lithium battery as required by the rules as per below, does anyone know if the 4 wire versions on amazon are common ground ?
Is it good to use a fuse on the high voltage input to the DC onverter for safety?
Yeah totally. Figure out your draw and size it by 1.25%
@@Corn-ped But if I have a load of 6 amps at 12 volts on the load side. Would the amperage draw on the 48 volt feeder of the DC-DC-converter side not be different?
@@raczyk just put a 10a fuse on the load side.
Yeah it would be 1.5 amps at 48v. But I don't think you can get a 2a fuse. So I would run a 10a fuse on the 12v side.
@Corn-ped I see. Just to understand the fuse on the 12 Volt side protects the connected accessories against current surges/shots. But on the 48v feeder side a fuse would protect the DC-DC converter or the 48v battery source?
Hi i have votol em150 motor qs138 90h and i try sort out programing controller only when i driving and paset 60amp cintroler cut off power then i restest it and i can start drive im no sure what i doing wrong thanks Michael
hmmm, I dont know of a setting that would do that. How is your battery? It might have a voltage drop and cause the controller to think its bad.
@@Corn-ped i check voktage when i drive becouse i have active screen from bms voktage going down about 1.5v only i think this is isue with controller becouse i have votol em150s and my bush bar is 250A controler take only 130A i think there is problem my bike is havy chasis from suzuki gsxr
The controller may be set up to cut off power if you have voltage drop more than 1.5v. @@michalchilczuk7043
@@Corn-ped what position on app can do that , on the first page ?
I was thinking it could be the undervoltage variation on page one. Maybe if you raised that it wouldn't shut off.
Why can’t the DCDC be patch directly to the battery?
It totally can. Would just need a different adapter