Im gathering up my parts for my Dragonpunch graphite composite craft chassis like I had back in the day. You are much farther along than me, as Im in middle of my Yoke builds. Updates on RC10Talk...
great tips on the build and real world costings $$$ as this is a real world issue these days ,last time we talked was with surpass rocket v5/v6 motors as i was allways told they first only made parts for the top brands like end cans for ?? or stators for ?? rotors for ??for big name brands ,so one day they just put all the parts as one and started suppling there own motors with out the big name or cost , we tested them on dyno and they made the same power as those big name brands at 1/2 the price so win win , few qustions whats the metal bar on rc10t front tower mount ?? and also how much longer are the arms over fan rc arms with the norrow mounts/chassis , and are they fan rc drive shaft as i thought they would be longer too match longer arms or am i missing somthing with my thinking ??
The hinge pin brace wasn't used with the RPM Worlds arms. I don't know if JC Racing factored it into theirs. I usually put the brace above the pins where the 10t body mount attaches. Probably doesn't do anything, but....😄 Your rear axles length (pin engagement) may be do to the hubs. They look like the standard rc10 hubs. The RPM hubs, the hinge pin is centered between the axle bearing so you can use a standard RC10 uni. The JC Racing hub is like the AE hub, and is offset to the outside. JC Racing makes slightly longer universals to correct that. You may be fine though, it's hard to tell the max amount of droop you are getting in the video.
Thanks Jason! I'll move the hinge pin brace up as mentioned. I did order the rpm rear hubs from Facrtory works so I'll see how that works as they were sold out of the extended 1.5 UJs
Im gathering up my parts for my Dragonpunch graphite composite craft chassis like I had back in the day. You are much farther along than me, as Im in middle of my Yoke builds. Updates on RC10Talk...
Very cool car. 😎 I like it
great tips on the build and real world costings $$$ as this is a real world issue these days ,last time we talked was with surpass rocket v5/v6 motors as i was allways told they first only made parts for the top brands like end cans for ?? or stators for ?? rotors for ??for big name brands ,so one day they just put all the parts as one and started suppling there own motors with out the big name or cost , we tested them on dyno and they made the same power as those big name brands at 1/2 the price so win win , few qustions whats the metal bar on rc10t front tower mount ?? and also how much longer are the arms over fan rc arms with the norrow mounts/chassis , and are they fan rc drive shaft as i thought they would be longer too match longer arms or am i missing somthing with my thinking ??
The hinge pin brace wasn't used with the RPM Worlds arms. I don't know if JC Racing factored it into theirs. I usually put the brace above the pins where the 10t body mount attaches. Probably doesn't do anything, but....😄
Your rear axles length (pin engagement) may be do to the hubs. They look like the standard rc10 hubs. The RPM hubs, the hinge pin is centered between the axle bearing so you can use a standard RC10 uni. The JC Racing hub is like the AE hub, and is offset to the outside. JC Racing makes slightly longer universals to correct that. You may be fine though, it's hard to tell the max amount of droop you are getting in the video.
Thanks Jason! I'll move the hinge pin brace up as mentioned.
I did order the rpm rear hubs from Facrtory works so I'll see how that works as they were sold out of the extended 1.5 UJs
I think Ran RC has 1.5mm extended CVD's as well that may work.