This exactly the video I needed. Thank you. She’s learned the “easy” command but I didn’t start luring early enough and the cupped lure is what I was struggling with. At the moment, that’s the only real issue we’re struggling with as all your other videos have helped to make her a great dog. She’s a solid black GSD by the way and she turned 5 months today. Thanks so much, Robert.
Thank you for doing this video. Once again I have learned where I messed up with Sarge. When training him he can sometimes be a little rough taking the treat. This technique I will start today. Thank you again for what you do and have a Merry Christmas.
This method really works. Thank u robert. I saw ur video with Duane o mater. Thats when i trained my male gsd puppy. He had a rlly hard mouth. And it worked right away. Cant thank enough.
A great video! People are always worried because I place my fingers in my GSD's mouth. I tell her easy once and that's it. Too bad I fractured my finger on left hand by improperly holding her leash or I'd use my left hand as a better guide when needed.
brilliant robert i thought my lab that using "easy" but i didnt push here back just kept saying "easy" until she did not snap the food,they do learn quickly
My dog never has issues with taking treats, but the last few weeks I’m working on focused heel in the evening outside, when my fingers are really cold. Then it does hurt if she nibbles a bit on my fingers, so I will try this, thanks!
Hi Robert, love your videos, recently subscribed. My dog is very easy to train with treats, the only issue is that she gets overly excited for them in anticipation if we are training. She does what I want her to do but her food drive is her strongest. Anything you recommend to over ride that high drive and encourage a bit more restraint?
Hi! I love your videos! I have a harness question. Where should a harness wrap under the dog? I know it shouldn’t be too close to the front legs, but can it be too far back? I just got a onetigris firewatcher harness. It wraps under her belly right where it starts to go up, end of rib cage. Is that ok? She’s a husky, maybe mixed with shepherd. It’s a size large. Or other smaller husky wears the medium.
Hi Robert, my dog was taking treats gently but since I started luring he’s chomping at my whole hand now! Am I moving to fast possibly? I’m assuming I can use this technique in the video and still lure him in position.
Using these tips my one cat went from chomping at my fingers frequently (mistaking them for hotdogs or something idek) to having the softest mouth in the world. She takes little nibbles and almost bites like a grandma who has her dentures in with the lips closing over the teeth. He goes in so slowly for my hand there’s zero concern he’d bite me anymore. My other nearly feral guy has one eye, so his depth perception is crap. He also gets aggressive near food- scarfing it down. He nipped me accidentally and there’s was bleeding, prompting me to find this video. , . It was really scary to shove my hand at his mouth again but literally in two afternoons, he’s way more passive. He basically doesn’t lunge, opens his mouth and let’s me roll the treat in in, and if I miss he looks to the ground where he knows that’s where the treat went. Because of the trigger word he’s not stressed any more that I’m going to take the treat away. Thank you! 🙏🙏
I tried this and the treat would not stay in my hand the way you do it. I wish you would spend more time showing the position of the treat ..I think you have it between your thumb and first 3 fingers..when I try that it slides out..and/or just doesn't stay. I also think my dog bites my fingers to much...something so simple...ugh
So, is that a gradual weening, as in treats for every 4th or 5th correct behavior, then taper off until you no longer need the treats as reinforcement? Or, is " cold turkey" a better option? Thank you for your response.
@@brianfalco6803IMO, reward randomly. Once the dog knows the behavior you’re asking for, sometimes a “good!” Is enough, sometimes petting, and sometimes the food reward. To teach the behavior, food is best, but yeah, once around 4-ish months, they should usually know whatever word you’re using to mark good behavior and do well enough with just the verbal reward or some petting/attention without needing to give treats every time
@@RobertCabralDogs Oh never thought I would get a reply. So I've got a big gsd x malinois 6mo puppy and she just goes aggressively for the food in my hand. It sure hurts me a lot. I've been watching your videos for month and a half since. I couldn't start training since I can't hand feed because I can't handle the pain or it's just I am a big wuss for karateka. I have so many questions but there aren't competent dog trainers. It's really sad. Thanks Mr. Cabral osu
Ik it’s been a few years since your question so you’ve probably got it managed by now, but your dog should never be biting you to the point you’re feeling pain, especially consistently. They should learn those basic mouth manners from their mom when they’re still in the litter, and once you take them home do not reward aggressive lunging or food behavior at all. Teach them to wait until whatever command you’re giving for them to eat, and pay them (extra treats) for waiting. Basically it takes some patience, but any lunging at food or jumping at you, you tell them “No”, wait for the behavior to stop, and reward the calm behavior. Then build on it from there to basically teach them “yes, you’re going to get fed. But we are not going to eat until we are calm, so being calm and listening to me will be the fastest way for you to get your dinner”
Hey robert I have a lab puppy of 3 months. Whenever I try to take away his toy or anything else from him, he does growl and try to bite me. Similar to resource guarding What should I do
Ishan Koul .. Offer HIGH VALUE treats when it’s w a toy .. BRIEFLY remove the toy when it is distracted by the treat. Return the toy after a few seconds when it notices you have it. Repeat. It’s Trust that you’ll return it.
Are you able to take the toy away at all ? Do you back away when he guards ? If you've backed away even once, the behavior has been rewarded and reinforced so you have the beginnings of a potential issue and you may have to correct it. Often just being more confident when approaching to remove a toy and just doing it without hesitation is the best way to tackle it. It really depends on how far along the guarding is. I'd just go to get the toy, if the dog growls I just show my disapproval with a "oi !" or "hey !" or "knock it off !" and take it anyway. 90% of the time it's all bluff and postering anyway. If you don't "buy in" by making an issue, the dog just gives it up. In the dog's mind it's a simple equation: is the object worth getting into a fight over ? It's nothing more than a risk vs reward decision.
Could you maybe give your 2 cent about the youtuber Deji and his dog Tank... Tank is a male german shepherd who bit a elderly ladie on there property after she hit him with a parcel because he ran at her, Tank could potentially be put down.
I like to build drive to take the treat. I don't give the treat, I want the dog to actively take it from me. I pinch the treat between my thumb and palm, so the dog has to push into my hand to get the treat. I literally do the opposite to this video so they drive hard into my palm.
Interesting, what's the benefit of this to you? How does it help you in training? And doesn't it hurt if the dog is nipping too hard? Robert Cabral what do you think about it?
@@kathrinal9333 It's more of a personal preference than anything else. The dog can't hurt your hand because of the hand position. It prevents nipping because the dog has to drive into the palm of my hand to take the treat. I like to use it because the dog has to work to get the treat so it increases drive.
This exactly the video I needed. Thank you.
She’s learned the “easy” command but I didn’t start luring early enough and the cupped lure is what I was struggling with.
At the moment, that’s the only real issue we’re struggling with as all your other videos have helped to make her a great dog.
She’s a solid black GSD by the way and she turned 5 months today.
Thanks so much, Robert.
Thank you for doing this video. Once again I have learned where I messed up with Sarge. When training him he can sometimes be a little rough taking the treat. This technique I will start today. Thank you again for what you do and have a Merry Christmas.
Thanks. Another dimension in safely treating large highly food motivated dogs.
Has a head cold....still gets great videos out. Thanks Robert.
This method really works. Thank u robert. I saw ur video with Duane o mater. Thats when i trained my male gsd puppy. He had a rlly hard mouth. And it worked right away. Cant thank enough.
A great video! People are always worried because I place my fingers in my GSD's mouth. I tell her easy once and that's it. Too bad I fractured my finger on left hand by improperly holding her leash or I'd use my left hand as a better guide when needed.
brilliant robert i thought my lab that using "easy" but i didnt push here back just kept saying "easy" until she did not snap the food,they do learn quickly
Great looking sable
Super
My dog never has issues with taking treats, but the last few weeks I’m working on focused heel in the evening outside, when my fingers are really cold. Then it does hurt if she nibbles a bit on my fingers, so I will try this, thanks!
The German command for “easy” is usually “langsam”. Just in case you were wondering...
Hi Robert, love your videos, recently subscribed. My dog is very easy to train with treats, the only issue is that she gets overly excited for them in anticipation if we are training. She does what I want her to do but her food drive is her strongest. Anything you recommend to over ride that high drive and encourage a bit more restraint?
Hi! I love your videos! I have a harness question. Where should a harness wrap under the dog? I know it shouldn’t be too close to the front legs, but can it be too far back? I just got a onetigris firewatcher harness. It wraps under her belly right where it starts to go up, end of rib cage. Is that ok? She’s a husky, maybe mixed with shepherd. It’s a size large. Or other smaller husky wears the medium.
What kind of treats do you use? Also saw you using some kind of cheese?? Thanks
What treats do you recommend? I have some tiny (3 cals/treat) but it looks like you're using a larger treat? Is it some sort of jerky?
What trail is that?
Hi Robert, my dog was taking treats gently but since I started luring he’s chomping at my whole hand now! Am I moving to fast possibly? I’m assuming I can use this technique in the video and still lure him in position.
Using these tips my one cat went from chomping at my fingers frequently (mistaking them for hotdogs or something idek) to having the softest mouth in the world. She takes little nibbles and almost bites like a grandma who has her dentures in with the lips closing over the teeth. He goes in so slowly for my hand there’s zero concern he’d bite me anymore.
My other nearly feral guy has one eye, so his depth perception is crap. He also gets aggressive near food- scarfing it down. He nipped me accidentally and there’s was bleeding, prompting me to find this video. , . It was really scary to shove my hand at his mouth again but literally in two afternoons, he’s way more passive. He basically doesn’t lunge, opens his mouth and let’s me roll the treat in in, and if I miss he looks to the ground where he knows that’s where the treat went. Because of the trigger word he’s not stressed any more that I’m going to take the treat away. Thank you! 🙏🙏
I tried this and the treat would not stay in my hand the way you do it. I wish you would spend more time showing the position of the treat ..I think you have it between your thumb and first 3 fingers..when I try that it slides out..and/or just doesn't stay. I also think my dog bites my fingers to much...something so simple...ugh
At what point do you stop giving treats to reward behavior? What is the weening process?
Once the dog learns. Usually 6 months.
So, is that a gradual weening, as in treats for every 4th or 5th correct behavior, then taper off until you no longer need the treats as reinforcement? Or, is " cold turkey" a better option?
Thank you for your response.
@@brianfalco6803IMO, reward randomly. Once the dog knows the behavior you’re asking for, sometimes a “good!” Is enough, sometimes petting, and sometimes the food reward. To teach the behavior, food is best, but yeah, once around 4-ish months, they should usually know whatever word you’re using to mark good behavior and do well enough with just the verbal reward or some petting/attention without needing to give treats every time
How do you manage pain from biting? It's insane
Who got bit, the dog or a person?
@@RobertCabralDogs Oh never thought I would get a reply. So I've got a big gsd x malinois 6mo puppy and she just goes aggressively for the food in my hand. It sure hurts me a lot. I've been watching your videos for month and a half since. I couldn't start training since I can't hand feed because I can't handle the pain or it's just I am a big wuss for karateka. I have so many questions but there aren't competent dog trainers. It's really sad. Thanks Mr. Cabral osu
Ik it’s been a few years since your question so you’ve probably got it managed by now, but your dog should never be biting you to the point you’re feeling pain, especially consistently. They should learn those basic mouth manners from their mom when they’re still in the litter, and once you take them home do not reward aggressive lunging or food behavior at all. Teach them to wait until whatever command you’re giving for them to eat, and pay them (extra treats) for waiting. Basically it takes some patience, but any lunging at food or jumping at you, you tell them “No”, wait for the behavior to stop, and reward the calm behavior. Then build on it from there to basically teach them “yes, you’re going to get fed. But we are not going to eat until we are calm, so being calm and listening to me will be the fastest way for you to get your dinner”
Hey robert
I have a lab puppy of 3 months.
Whenever I try to take away his toy or anything else from him, he does growl and try to bite me.
Similar to resource guarding
What should I do
Ishan Koul .. Offer HIGH VALUE treats when it’s w a toy .. BRIEFLY remove the toy when it is distracted by the treat. Return the toy after a few seconds when it notices you have it. Repeat. It’s Trust that you’ll return it.
Are you able to take the toy away at all ? Do you back away when he guards ?
If you've backed away even once, the behavior has been rewarded and reinforced so you have the beginnings of a potential issue and you may have to correct it. Often just being more confident when approaching to remove a toy and just doing it without hesitation is the best way to tackle it. It really depends on how far along the guarding is.
I'd just go to get the toy, if the dog growls I just show my disapproval with a "oi !" or "hey !" or "knock it off !" and take it anyway. 90% of the time it's all bluff and postering anyway. If you don't "buy in" by making an issue, the dog just gives it up. In the dog's mind it's a simple equation: is the object worth getting into a fight over ? It's nothing more than a risk vs reward decision.
👍✳️👍✳️👍✳️
Could you maybe give your 2 cent about the youtuber Deji and his dog Tank... Tank is a male german shepherd who bit a elderly ladie on there property after she hit him with a parcel because he ran at her, Tank could potentially be put down.
I like to build drive to take the treat. I don't give the treat, I want the dog to actively take it from me. I pinch the treat between my thumb and palm, so the dog has to push into my hand to get the treat. I literally do the opposite to this video so they drive hard into my palm.
Interesting, what's the benefit of this to you? How does it help you in training? And doesn't it hurt if the dog is nipping too hard? Robert Cabral what do you think about it?
@@kathrinal9333
It's more of a personal preference than anything else. The dog can't hurt your hand because of the hand position. It prevents nipping because the dog has to drive into the palm of my hand to take the treat. I like to use it because the dog has to work to get the treat so it increases drive.
Thanks for the super quick reply! :-D have a happy holiday! 👋
@@kathrinal9333 You too !