I'm glad I found your channel...I'm a computer technician well technically a network engineer since I also graduated for network engineering..anyway I love hardware repair and I am always looking for good sources of information and sometimes I run into board issues that could be fixed by replacing a component like a capacitor or repairing the traces etc. These videos are great on clarifying what I need to do in those types of situations...I can offer a cheaper repair and make more money instead of having to buy a replacement board I van change a cheap piece and my customer is happy...plus I get my skills up....keep up what you're doing you are an asset to the repair community....
Hi . Thanks for your support , much appreciated. If I can help a few people it's worth doing the videos . I will post more when I get some time as I still have lots of things to show. Thanks again and good luck with your projects 👍
Hi . Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video . All I want to do is help a few people sort their problems out. If I can that's a bonus. Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
@@billybrown7390I don't think he's using glue here. He's just exposing enough of the board to make a solder bridge to hold the pad down. I think there's an epoxy that is used but I'm not sure what kind
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . This is actually quite an old video and since then my videos have really improved in picture and sound clarity . I'm still pleased you enjoyed this video though , that's nice to hear . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment . I just think it's important to get soldering options out there so people can have more choices when trying to repair things , I'm glad you found this useful. Thanks again , much appreciated ,👍
Hi . Glad you found the video useful . I've also done a video on through hole pad replacement if you ever need that option. Many thanks for watching and good luck with your projects👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . This video was filmed in my early days on RUclips and my quality of video i.e picture and sound clarity has improved so much since then . I'm still pleased you enjoyed this though , it was part of my learning about filming etc so I'm glad this is still enjoyed at times . Thank you again for your support , take care 👍
Hi . Thank you . Your comments are much appreciated. I always tell people anything can be achieved with practise so hopefully lots more people try soldering and become really good at it. Thanks again .
I really appreciate your kind words . Glad you enjoyed the photo's at the end . Any questions you have please feel free to ask, i will always help if i can.
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel . I've tried to improve my videos as I've gone along , hopefully they can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. This video is pretty old now , I've got them a lot clearer and sharper nowadays . I will try and post a new pad one sometime in the near future , but I'm glad you still enjoyed this one . Thanks again for your support 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and they are of use to you . I will post more when I get time , thanks again 👍
Thanks for making this video, it's really helpful. I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind. 1. What is your thought on supergluing the replacement pad to the board? 2. What do you think of fabricating new pads from copper foil, or flattened (hammered) solid core copper wire? Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I guess you could place some super glue around the pad and slightly over the joint after you have soldered it . In my experience this doesn't damage the solder at all . If you glue the pad down first and then solder the heat this will affect the glue , so solder first then glue second. You can certainly make your own pads with both methods you mentioned , just try and match the width of pads or traces being recreated as this is important for signals etc running down them . Hope this helps , thanks again for your support 👍
I'm working on restoring an old NES console and fortunately, the pads are still okish, it's the tin on top that had to be scrubbed away that was the issue. I've never seen a video of one so badly corroded. But, it should just be a matter of retinning it, but, it's great to see what plan B looks like.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've nearly always found a solution for most problems , so I'm sure you'll be ok . I just like to post different scenarios so hopefully it may help someone out . Good luck with your project and thanks again 👍
Thanks for this. Very helpful. The pad shape i need is very similar to the one you have shown in this video thumbnail, so large area with tiny pad trace sticink out of it. I do not have another spare board so I am considering to use flattened copper wire for it. I hope this will work equally well. I also wonder if you should apply tin on the pads first before placing them on the board? I was thinking this is what I should do with my wire first.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . This is a really early video I posted on youtube about 3 years ago . The quality of my videos has got way better since then . I've shown pad repairs in a couple of others , recently I showed one using copper tape as a pad replacement . Great method , this video may be of use to you . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 many thanks for replying. I found old broken calculator and I took the pad from there. I need to solder it to a very microscopic about 0.2 mm diameter point. I was wondering how can I do this without causing a mess and accidentaly exagurating with amount of solder.
Hi , thank you. I know the recording of this isn't great but I'm glad you still enjoyed it . Maybe one day I will do an updated version for people to view. Thank you once again for supporting my channel, take care 👍
Hi . Thank you . Hopefully I can do another one like this in the future that will be much clearer ( I use better cameras now ) but I'm glad you enjoyed this one . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. I will try and do an updated version of this video one day , again showing transposed pads as this one is fairly old and not as clear as I can get now . Glad you still enjoyed it though . Thank you for your support , take care 👍
Hi , thank you. Since I posted this video , a long time ago now , my videos have got much clearer with better sound quality ( music and voice same level ) . I'm glad people still enjoy it but one day I will try to remake all my old ones . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. With some practice and the right tools it's amazing what you can achieve. I will do some more pad repairs in the future for RUclips . Good luck with your projects and thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I've a fair bit of solder practice by now, currently fixing a dud batch of PCBs for my employer AmbaSat; we were supplied with partially assembled boards that didn't have the boot image flashed to the chip like we specified... So muggins here is pulling them off one by one, getting them flashed, and re-soldering by hand. So far out of the 6 i've worked on today, all work except 1 because of stripped pads. May attempt this bodge tomorrow. Keep up the creativity my dude ^_^
Hi , thanks again for your nice words. I hope you get on ok with your repair , I am sure you can fix it ( anything possible ) that's what I like to tell myself. Anyway good luck 🤞and thanks again 👍
Awesome thank you. I was stuck doing a repair. What soldering iron do you use? I'm looking for one that's got the correct heat range instead of just a general one size fits all type.
Hi , thank you for your comment. I use mainly a Weller TCP S soldering iron with mainly a PTP7 conical tip or a DD8 large flat sided tip . I also have 2 Metcal soldering irons which I occasionally use . The TCP S comes with a wide range of tips but basically if you get yourself a decent iron you will have more selection of tips to go with them . The real cheap irons tend to have one big standard tip so your a bit limited what you can do with it . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you . Glad you enjoyed the video . Good luck , it's amazing what can be fixed so always give it a go. Hopefully I can give people a few ideas 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video's. It's quite hard to recommend a microscope as there is so many and the price varies so much . The type I use is called a stereo long reach , basically this has a long arm on it so you can get large PCB's underneath and work on them no problem . The price varies massively from a couple of hundred to thousands . This type I would recommend definitely. I wouldn't choose a typical cheap scope that you normally look at insects under as they are quite small and so any larger PCB couldn't be turned to cover every area. I'm sorry I can't be more specific on the best one to get as like I said there are hundreds of different models but try and get a stereo long reach if you can . Good luck and thanks again for your time 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've always used SMFL200D flux but unfortunately it's recently been discontinued so I'm looking for a new type at this present time, when I find a decent one I will post it on RUclips. Thanks again 👍
5:00 ahhhh that is the important part. I would bet many ppl aren't able to get solder to stick. if they did, they could just plop on an old track . atleast, that's where I'm at. if i was able to tin it, i probably would be able to get something down to solder to
Hi . Thank you for your comment . Yes my earlier videos were done with poorer equipment than I use now . The last few videos I have posted the pictures and sounds are a lot better as I have better stuff to film the videos on . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Hi . If I'm gluing the pads which I sometimes do I personally glue it after soldering . I use either a glue called Tak Pak , which comes as a glue and an activator . I just run a fillet around the edge , slightly encroaching on the pad itself . This glue is fairly strong and will do the job . Also I use a relevant twin pack araldite , again doing the same method . Lastly I use a substance called Scotchcast. Do exactly as the other 2 . Hope that helps 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I am attempting to repair an auto instrument board that has lost resistors due to vibration. One bank is fixed but I have an issue with the second. I am using resistors that are too small for the pad spacing but have not been able to get the right size. The work is ugly but less so than my first try using an iron that was too hot. Can you suggest a repair for the damaged pad? I do not have an appropriate donor. I do have some conductive silver glue on order. Thanks for any suggestions. drive.google.com/file/d/1GKHei0yi6Aw35mWPY93C-aykeMeTzFgf/view?usp=drivesdk
Hi . Ive looked at the picture you sent across . Personally I would do it properly as I show in the video . But there is an easier way if you wanted to do it this way . You can fit the resistor to the pad that is still on the board . Then at the other end you can simply take a piece of wire ( the same size as the original track that's now missing and simply run this wire down from the resistor end ( where pads missing ) to the bigger fat track that's joins all the resistors up at the damaged pad end . You can scratch off some resist , around the small silver via you can see to create a pad on this track . Or you can join the resistor at the damaged end to another resistor at this end with a similar wire , as they are all joined at this end by the thicker trace. Hope that helps 👍
Hi . Thank you . My soldering iron is a 50W iron , 24 volts. It's a Weller TCP S soldering iron . It's the only type I ever use , I love them and you can get a massive variety of tips to fit in it as well . Hope that helps , thank you for all your support , much appreciated 👍
Hi, Well I got the ic off, but have a lot of missing pads, some of the missing pads have no tracks going to them, does that normally happen. Do you undertake repairs, as spent so long trying to fix this, possibly needs a new pcb. I don’t think I am can do it, am 75 and my hands are not as steady as they used to be, thanks for your advise, Barry.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Pads underneath IC legs can have no tracks coming out from them , this is common to have one or more not being used to connect somewhere else . Sometimes all the pins will be used but not always .Occasionally you can get hidden vias under the pads but I doubt you have these. I don't take on private repairs as I'm to busy these days but it's good you had a go . Best of luck with whatever you do and keep trying 👍
Hi , thank you for watching , much appreciated. I actually do my filming using a phone camera with a macro lens attached , I prefer the side angle I can get rather than directly from above which a microscope camera gives you. I have a much better phone camera now than when the video you commented on was made . I was still learning back then , so I've also improved volume of voice to music , different camera angles etc . Thanks again for your comment and if your interested I've got quite a lot more postings on RUclips now with more to come in the future 👍
Hi . Thank you , much appreciated . My early videos weren't quite as clear etc but I've got a bit better as I've gone along , better camera etc so I'm glad you enjoyed it anyway. Thanks very much for subscribing 👍
Hi . Thank you . I actually record all my video's using a mobile phone camera . I attach a macro lens over the phone camera lens ( bracket + lens were only £35 ) and you get pretty good results . I actually have a much better phone now , so my last few videos have much better sound and picture clarity than this video . It's a great method and gives a different angle to soldering than a microscope camera that's directly from above . Hope that helps , thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Wow, great results...if you can share a link of the devices i will realy aprecciate it..I clouse to buy a microscope and ur link my realy help me take the right decision.Keep it up with the good work. Best regards
Hi . Right this is the lens I've got . Apexel APL- HD5BM . This is a macro lens , but also they do other lenses that screw onto your phone like wide angle etc . I love this lens so would recommend it over other makes that are massively dearer . Hope that helps you.Google it and you will find this no problem 👍
Hi , thank you for watching the video. Yes it's fine whether the pad is tinned or not . If it's tinned it makes the soldering process quicker which in this case is an advantage , but it can be done ok on untinned pads. The secret for speed is to add flux to the joint in question . My later videos are of a much better quality than this as I learnt editing as I went along but hopefully you still enjoyed this one, thanks again and good luck 👍
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I hopefully try and explain things clearly and like I said earlier my videos have got a lot better ( picture quality and sound ) , I was learning how to edit for my first batch of videos . I will always add new videos when I get some time and hopefully these will be of use to people when I do add them in the future. Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects, take care 👍
Hi . Thanks again for your support. I'm always happy for people to put other suggestions and potential ways for fixing pcb issues , so thank you for your comment . Hopefully this will help some people out as well 👍
Hi , thank you. I will try and do a clearer version of replacing pads in the future as I should have better cameras etc soon . Hopefully it was still ok for you , thanks again 👍
Hi . Thank you , much appreciated . Pcb mod wires can be really neat is hopefully what people can learn from this video. Anything is possible just takes some practice. I use Kynar wire ( and Kynar strippers), and Tak Pak glue mainly for my mods , they are both great. Thanks again.
Hi . If you are referring to removing pads from another pcb , I don't normally use any heat to do this operation. Just basically a sharpish knife to get underneath the pad . Hope that helps . Thank you again for your support 👍
Hi . As long as you know where the trace goes to ( both ends ) you can use a length of Kynar wire or something similar as long as it's sleeved and of a similar width , this is a common fix for a lot of people . Some of my other videos show trace repairs and PCB wiring like you will need. Hope you get on ok , thanks for watching 👍
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment. I just wanted to show people what can be achieved , I've used this method underneath IC's lots of times and it really is invisible if done right. Good luck with any projects you try and thanks again👍
Hi . I would try to scrape around the end of the pin that's flush to the body and remove a small amount of the substance surrounding the pin . The internal parts of the IC are normally further into the body so you can get away this . I find I can normally always carefully with a scalpel , scrape a small amount of the body back and I would then have enough to solder to . Good luck 👍
Hi . You can go back a little into the body ( you only need a tiny amount ) this should give you enough to join to . I always tin the tiny amount I've exposed with small amount of solder then when I join up to it I put flux on the joint . Do the main bottom joint first onto the pad then the top joint really quickly ( as I do in the video ) as long as your quick it can be done . Good luck 👍
Hi . Have you seen the video I posted about fixing back IC legs ? It's exactly what you need. For speed you can use leaded solder , even though most soldering is done these days with unleaded , but some industry's do have exemptions , so you can get leaded easily enough . Any decent quality solder will do ( I don't buy cheap solder ) , and I mainly use 0.25 mm solder for a job like this . So try and find my other videos ( there are in fact 2 posted that show pins being reattached onto IC's ) Thank you 👍
Thank you for this video. I have messed up three pads of switches on a keyboard pcb (they are gone, spacebar, left shift, and backspace), is it fixable the same way you did in this video? Will appreciate any input! I will never be able to do connecting them through a wire, so thinking if it is possible to fix them otherwise?
Hi . It's really difficult for me here as I haven't got the board in my hand to see the problem . All I can offer is my video's that show pad repairs and hopefully there's something of use there for you . I'm really sorry I can't offer more help. Thank you for your time and good luck .
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . I've posted a cleaning video on my channel , there is a method shown in this video with what you are asking , a bathing method which completely washes out flux from underneath devices . All the flux I've ever used is non corrosive flux so small amounts that are left on the boards do no damage at all anyway but I do still like my boards sparkling clean. Hope that helps 👍
Noob question here, but what about the other two pads just above those two? They don't seem to have traces running to them. Are they non functional or are the traces running too deep to see?
It could be a multilayer board, or they could have no use if the chip just has NC pads. Chips are made in common sizes and if you need less pins than 8 then it's easier to not connect them instead of making a different package
What if you don't have any scrap pcb's -- the only solder pads / lugs i can find on ebay are way too small, anyone know which exact term to use for larger pads/traces for repair (around 0.1mm - 0.5mm for traces, and around 0.5-1mm for the pads/holes) ?
Hi . I don't really know the motherboard in question so I can't really say , but I've done this fix on many different boards and I've always been ok . Thanks for watching and good luck 👍
Hi . The copper strips are fine to use , I have used them and I always cut them with a surgeons scalpel , not scissors. I just like to transfer pads from other boards as I know I can match the size perfectly especially if I need a pad with a bit of track coming out from it. Good luck and thank you for watching , much appreciated 👍
Hi , this was one of my really early videos where I used a less effective camera and my editing skills were not great , people keep reminding me that my music to speech volumes were a bit out . All this has been improved greatly over the last year or two . The board in this video is standard FR4 material , probably one of the best types you can get . Pads are easy to remove , just a sharp scalpel flicking one corner up then simply peel upwards . Really easy . Hopefully I've understood your question correctly . Thanks for your comment 👍
Hi , thank you for your comment . I have successfully transposed pads from 0402 size components ( I have to for my job ) and recently I've been using 1 strand from a reel of 0.5mm solder braid to use as modification wire . Lots of what I do I can't show in videos as it's too small for my limited camera to show clearly . I just find if you do the large stuff really neatly and don't have a slap dash attitude you will eventually, successfully move on to smaller and smaller components , repairs etc . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Oh man that's crazy to me, maybe because I have little to no soldering skills, or because my hands are so shaky I could make butter in the meantime. I've tried desoldering a BIOS chip from a GPU because they both seemed to be active at the same time which prevented the mobo from booting, and have failed successfully by also removing the SMD resistors near PCI-E. I bet I'm good enough at soldering to desolder what you've put in place, but the other way around, I don't think. :P Wonder what's the world record of the smallest thing someone had soldered in and it worked.
Hi , if you have the right basic tools it definitely helps . My 3 main must haves are a fine conical tip on your iron , good flux and different size solders , particularly 0.25mm for fine pitch / small device work . Once you have them it's just things like microscopes , correct tweezers etc . Then I guess patience , which does become easier to master the more you do . I just hope I can help a few people by posting these videos , that's all I wanted to do . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Hi. No , sorry I don't do social media. All I can say really is what I've shown in the videos . I've done 4 at the moment with pad + trace repairs in them and I will be doing more in the future but every repair is different and without seeing yours it's impossible to answer you really . I'm really sorry.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the very informative video , one of my capacitor leaked and I've removed it , I have a replacement capacitor there literally nothing to solder to because the round pad and track lifted. I have cleaned it up , I tried a little double sided foil but as soon as I drop a touch of solder the heat just lifts the foil. Is there anyway you can get some copper to stick to the board , I can't solder to anything like you did with the pads I've looked at the solder repair kits with all the different shapes but would I face the same problem and they lift off the board? I'm just wanting to mount the capacitor to the board and I can run a track from that to the where it should go .or is there a suitable glue to glue the cap pin in place and hold it , one side will solder, the other has nothing to solder to
Never grafted traces or pads myself, but on a trace that isn't being held down by the component, wouldn't it be a cleaner looking job if you made the grafted piece 1-2mm longer, tinned the break and solder it to the backside of the grafted track since it's exposed? You could even put solder mask over it to really secure it, maybe even a tiny bit under the pad on one of the sides to keep that secure as well
I'm glad I found your channel...I'm a computer technician well technically a network engineer since I also graduated for network engineering..anyway I love hardware repair and I am always looking for good sources of information and sometimes I run into board issues that could be fixed by replacing a component like a capacitor or repairing the traces etc. These videos are great on clarifying what I need to do in those types of situations...I can offer a cheaper repair and make more money instead of having to buy a replacement board I van change a cheap piece and my customer is happy...plus I get my skills up....keep up what you're doing you are an asset to the repair community....
Hi . Thanks for your support , much appreciated. If I can help a few people it's worth doing the videos . I will post more when I get some time as I still have lots of things to show. Thanks again and good luck with your projects 👍
God, you have a steady hand...control over the knife... Proper breathing and not too much coffee! Hehehe....
Hi . Thank you. Glad you enjoyed the video . All I want to do is help a few people sort their problems out. If I can that's a bonus. Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
What glue do you use to glue down pads
@@billybrown7390I don't think he's using glue here. He's just exposing enough of the board to make a solder bridge to hold the pad down. I think there's an epoxy that is used but I'm not sure what kind
That is brilliant. Love how you patiently explain .
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , much appreciated . This is actually quite an old video and since then my videos have really improved in picture and sound clarity . I'm still pleased you enjoyed this video though , that's nice to hear . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
Thats a critical Repair., Soo good to find something like this in the web.
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment . I just think it's important to get soldering options out there so people can have more choices when trying to repair things , I'm glad you found this useful. Thanks again , much appreciated ,👍
This is exactly the help I needed to continue my repair, thanks man!
Hi . Glad you found the video useful . I've also done a video on through hole pad replacement if you ever need that option. Many thanks for watching and good luck with your projects👍
Excellent fix, well done, you are a true expert at soldering
Hi , thank you for your comment . This video was filmed in my early days on RUclips and my quality of video i.e picture and sound clarity has improved so much since then . I'm still pleased you enjoyed this though , it was part of my learning about filming etc so I'm glad this is still enjoyed at times . Thank you again for your support , take care 👍
You have incredible ability to do find work a remarkable example of how need to be done right
Hi . Thank you . Your comments are much appreciated. I always tell people anything can be achieved with practise so hopefully lots more people try soldering and become really good at it. Thanks again .
Great video . Wow your hands steady. Loved the end photos .
I really appreciate your kind words . Glad you enjoyed the photo's at the end . Any questions you have please feel free to ask, i will always help if i can.
I love this video. I have some Neo Geo's I am working on and would love to upgrade my fixes to this level. Great content!
Hi thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks a lot for sharing. All your videos are what I am looking for!
Hi , thank you for supporting my channel . I've tried to improve my videos as I've gone along , hopefully they can help a few people out . Thanks again , take care 👍
Excellent! I've always wondered if there was a way to fix pads that have fallen out. Now I know!
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. This video is pretty old now , I've got them a lot clearer and sharper nowadays . I will try and post a new pad one sometime in the near future , but I'm glad you still enjoyed this one . Thanks again for your support 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996cheers ✌
This is art! Nicework bud! I enjoy your videos very much. Theyre a great help.
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated. I'm glad you enjoy the videos and they are of use to you . I will post more when I get time , thanks again 👍
Thanks for making this video, it's really helpful. I do have a couple of questions if you don't mind.
1. What is your thought on supergluing the replacement pad to the board?
2. What do you think of fabricating new pads from copper foil, or flattened (hammered) solid core copper wire?
Thanks!
Hi , thank you for your comment. I guess you could place some super glue around the pad and slightly over the joint after you have soldered it . In my experience this doesn't damage the solder at all . If you glue the pad down first and then solder the heat this will affect the glue , so solder first then glue second.
You can certainly make your own pads with both methods you mentioned , just try and match the width of pads or traces being recreated as this is important for signals etc running down them . Hope this helps , thanks again for your support 👍
I'm working on restoring an old NES console and fortunately, the pads are still okish, it's the tin on top that had to be scrubbed away that was the issue. I've never seen a video of one so badly corroded. But, it should just be a matter of retinning it, but, it's great to see what plan B looks like.
Hi , thank you for your comment . I've nearly always found a solution for most problems , so I'm sure you'll be ok . I just like to post different scenarios so hopefully it may help someone out . Good luck with your project and thanks again 👍
beautiful job
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Thanks for this. Very helpful. The pad shape i need is very similar to the one you have shown in this video thumbnail, so large area with tiny pad trace sticink out of it. I do not have another spare board so I am considering to use flattened copper wire for it. I hope this will work equally well. I also wonder if you should apply tin on the pads first before placing them on the board? I was thinking this is what I should do with my wire first.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated . This is a really early video I posted on youtube about 3 years ago . The quality of my videos has got way better since then . I've shown pad repairs in a couple of others , recently I showed one using copper tape as a pad replacement . Great method , this video may be of use to you . Thanks again , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 many thanks for replying. I found old broken calculator and I took the pad from there. I need to solder it to a very microscopic about 0.2 mm diameter point. I was wondering how can I do this without causing a mess and accidentaly exagurating with amount of solder.
Exelente Video, is there some glue they sell to glue down pads
Beautiful work!
Hi , thank you. I know the recording of this isn't great but I'm glad you still enjoyed it . Maybe one day I will do an updated version for people to view. Thank you once again for supporting my channel, take care 👍
Nice job , I have seen using jumper wires but this is neat
Hi . Thank you . Hopefully I can do another one like this in the future that will be much clearer ( I use better cameras now ) but I'm glad you enjoyed this one . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Nice work. Thank you for sharing.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting, much appreciated. I will try and do an updated version of this video one day , again showing transposed pads as this one is fairly old and not as clear as I can get now . Glad you still enjoyed it though . Thank you for your support , take care 👍
Excellent repair, very stealth I like it very much
Hi , thank you. Since I posted this video , a long time ago now , my videos have got much clearer with better sound quality ( music and voice same level ) . I'm glad people still enjoy it but one day I will try to remake all my old ones . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
Love it... Doubt I could pull this off for two missing pads I need for a tiny ATMEGA mind.
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated. With some practice and the right tools it's amazing what you can achieve. I will do some more pad repairs in the future for RUclips . Good luck with your projects and thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I've a fair bit of solder practice by now, currently fixing a dud batch of PCBs for my employer AmbaSat; we were supplied with partially assembled boards that didn't have the boot image flashed to the chip like we specified... So muggins here is pulling them off one by one, getting them flashed, and re-soldering by hand.
So far out of the 6 i've worked on today, all work except 1 because of stripped pads. May attempt this bodge tomorrow.
Keep up the creativity my dude ^_^
Hi , thanks again for your nice words. I hope you get on ok with your repair , I am sure you can fix it ( anything possible ) that's what I like to tell myself. Anyway good luck 🤞and thanks again 👍
Awesome thank you. I was stuck doing a repair.
What soldering iron do you use? I'm looking for one that's got the correct heat range instead of just a general one size fits all type.
Hi , thank you for your comment.
I use mainly a Weller TCP S soldering iron with mainly a PTP7 conical tip or a DD8 large flat sided tip . I also have 2 Metcal soldering irons which I occasionally use .
The TCP S comes with a wide range of tips but basically if you get yourself a decent iron you will have more selection of tips to go with them . The real cheap irons tend to have one big standard tip so your a bit limited what you can do with it . Hope that helps , thanks again 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Yes it does, thank you.
thank you so much... I thought I had buggered the whole pcb till I watched this! 😂
Hi . Thank you . Glad you enjoyed the video . Good luck , it's amazing what can be fixed so always give it a go. Hopefully I can give people a few ideas 👍
such a weird word you English have buggered is that slang or proper English cause it sounds so strange to an American.
@@tonytrilex2555buggered means "seriously harmed or damaged."
Same here. But good luck performing the repair as well as this guy!
Hiya...thanks for these vids, I am wondering what microscope you might recommend for a beginner. cheers
Hi , thank you for watching the video's.
It's quite hard to recommend a microscope as there is so many and the price varies so much .
The type I use is called a stereo long reach , basically this has a long arm on it so you can get large PCB's underneath and work on them no problem . The price varies massively from a couple of hundred to thousands . This type I would recommend definitely.
I wouldn't choose a typical cheap scope that you normally look at insects under as they are quite small and so any larger PCB couldn't be turned to cover every area. I'm sorry I can't be more specific on the best one to get as like I said there are hundreds of different models but try and get a stereo long reach if you can . Good luck and thanks again for your time 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks you so much for the information and the content...I will have a look for a stereo long reach. Cheers!
Hi , no problem , good luck 👍
Amazing work. Thanks for the info!
Hi , thank you for your comment and for watching the video, much appreciated, take care 👍
hi you done great video about damege pads and repair it , but i wana what loop or microscope used for saving this tutorial?
Good video, What flux are you using?
Hi , thank you for your comment. I've always used SMFL200D flux but unfortunately it's recently been discontinued so I'm looking for a new type at this present time, when I find a decent one I will post it on RUclips. Thanks again 👍
5:00 ahhhh that is the important part. I would bet many ppl aren't able to get solder to stick. if they did, they could just plop on an old track . atleast, that's where I'm at. if i was able to tin it, i probably would be able to get something down to solder to
Great content. But would be even better with better sound quality. Keep them coming!
Hi . Thank you for your comment . Yes my earlier videos were done with poorer equipment than I use now . The last few videos I have posted the pictures and sounds are a lot better as I have better stuff to film the videos on . Thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Really appreciate the video. You mentioned that in a different situation you would glue the pad. Is there a type of glue you would use? Thanks.
Hi . If I'm gluing the pads which I sometimes do I personally glue it after soldering . I use either a glue called Tak Pak , which comes as a glue and an activator . I just run a fillet around the edge , slightly encroaching on the pad itself . This glue is fairly strong and will do the job . Also I use a relevant twin pack araldite , again doing the same method . Lastly I use a substance called Scotchcast. Do exactly as the other 2 . Hope that helps 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 thanks. It helps
@@mrsolderfix3996 I am attempting to repair an auto instrument board that has lost resistors due to vibration. One bank is fixed but I have an issue with the second. I am using resistors that are too small for the pad spacing but have not been able to get the right size. The work is ugly but less so than my first try using an iron that was too hot. Can you suggest a repair for the damaged pad? I do not have an appropriate donor. I do have some conductive silver glue on order. Thanks for any suggestions.
drive.google.com/file/d/1GKHei0yi6Aw35mWPY93C-aykeMeTzFgf/view?usp=drivesdk
Hi . Ive looked at the picture you sent across . Personally I would do it properly as I show in the video . But there is an easier way if you wanted to do it this way . You can fit the resistor to the pad that is still on the board . Then at the other end you can simply take a piece of wire ( the same size as the original track that's now missing and simply run this wire down from the resistor end ( where pads missing ) to the bigger fat track that's joins all the resistors up at the damaged pad end . You can scratch off some resist , around the small silver via you can see to create a pad on this track . Or you can join the resistor at the damaged end to another resistor at this end with a similar wire , as they are all joined at this end by the thicker trace. Hope that helps 👍
Thanks. If I had a suitable donor pad, I'd do it that way but I'll do the alternative way. Thanks again.
Sir Aptily Great job.... How many watt is your soldering iron..... 👍🇧🇭
Hi . Thank you . My soldering iron is a 50W iron , 24 volts.
It's a Weller TCP S soldering iron . It's the only type I ever use , I love them and you can get a massive variety of tips to fit in it as well . Hope that helps , thank you for all your support , much appreciated 👍
can we use silver conductive adhesive paste instead????
Saya suka cenel ini...👍
Hi , thank you 👍
Hi, Well I got the ic off, but have a lot of missing pads, some of the missing pads have no tracks going to them, does that normally happen. Do you undertake repairs, as spent so long trying to fix this, possibly needs a new pcb. I don’t think I am can do it, am 75 and my hands are not as steady as they used to be, thanks for your advise, Barry.
Hi , thank you for your comment . Pads underneath IC legs can have no tracks coming out from them , this is common to have one or more not being used to connect somewhere else . Sometimes all the pins will be used but not always .Occasionally you can get hidden vias under the pads but I doubt you have these. I don't take on private repairs as I'm to busy these days but it's good you had a go . Best of luck with whatever you do and keep trying 👍
omg what microscope are u using ? And what camera ? super clear
Hi , thank you for watching , much appreciated. I actually do my filming using a phone camera with a macro lens attached , I prefer the side angle I can get rather than directly from above which a microscope camera gives you. I have a much better phone camera now than when the video you commented on was made . I was still learning back then , so I've also improved volume of voice to music , different camera angles etc . Thanks again for your comment and if your interested I've got quite a lot more postings on RUclips now with more to come in the future 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 awesome. Subbed. Good videos.
Hi . Thank you , much appreciated . My early videos weren't quite as clear etc but I've got a bit better as I've gone along , better camera etc so I'm glad you enjoyed it anyway. Thanks very much for subscribing 👍
So clear image...what microscope did record this video?
Hi . Thank you . I actually record all my video's using a mobile phone camera . I attach a macro lens over the phone camera lens ( bracket + lens were only £35 ) and you get pretty good results . I actually have a much better phone now , so my last few videos have much better sound and picture clarity than this video . It's a great method and gives a different angle to soldering than a microscope camera that's directly from above . Hope that helps , thanks again , much appreciated 👍
Wow, great results...if you can share a link of the devices i will realy aprecciate it..I clouse to buy a microscope and ur link my realy help me take the right decision.Keep it up with the good work. Best regards
Hi . Right this is the lens I've got .
Apexel APL- HD5BM . This is a macro lens , but also they do other lenses that screw onto your phone like wide angle etc . I love this lens so would recommend it over other makes that are massively dearer . Hope that helps you.Google it and you will find this no problem 👍
Great!!Thank you for your help! All the best.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Hi, i have a question, How cm is the distance between the lent and the board?Is it possible to solder normally and use a hot air?
Is there a way to glue the trace in the between the pads?
I suppose it's OK if the donor pad is already tinned rather than bare copper as in your example.
Hi , thank you for watching the video.
Yes it's fine whether the pad is tinned or not . If it's tinned it makes the soldering process quicker which in this case is an advantage , but it can be done ok on untinned pads. The secret for speed is to add flux to the joint in question . My later videos are of a much better quality than this as I learnt editing as I went along but hopefully you still enjoyed this one, thanks again and good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you for your quick response, I'm so glad I found your channel, these are great tips and you do make it look easy. 😊
Hi , thank you for your support, much appreciated. I hopefully try and explain things clearly and like I said earlier my videos have got a lot better ( picture quality and sound ) , I was learning how to edit for my first batch of videos .
I will always add new videos when I get some time and hopefully these will be of use to people when I do add them in the future. Thanks again and good luck with all of your soldering projects, take care 👍
adhesive copper tape works well the type sold as slug tape
Hi . Thanks again for your support. I'm always happy for people to put other suggestions and potential ways for fixing pcb issues , so thank you for your comment . Hopefully this will help some people out as well 👍
Thanks sir nice job
Hi , thank you. I will try and do a clearer version of replacing pads in the future as I should have better cameras etc soon . Hopefully it was still ok for you , thanks again 👍
Exellant job.. ✌️🇧🇭
Hi . Thank you , much appreciated . Pcb mod wires can be really neat is hopefully what people can learn from this video. Anything is possible just takes some practice. I use Kynar wire ( and Kynar strippers), and Tak Pak glue mainly for my mods , they are both great. Thanks again.
Will high heat help on cutting out from there boards?
Hi . If you are referring to removing pads from another pcb , I don't normally use any heat to do this operation. Just basically a sharpish knife to get underneath the pad . Hope that helps . Thank you again for your support 👍
thanks for the help, great video 👍
Thank you
Many Thanks
Hi , thank you for your comment, much appreciated 👍
Hi, I ripped a copper pad off a circuit board i have but I cant seem to find the copper trace to fix the issue.
Hi . As long as you know where the trace goes to ( both ends ) you can use a length of Kynar wire or something similar as long as it's sleeved and of a similar width , this is a common fix for a lot of people . Some of my other videos show trace repairs and PCB wiring like you will need. Hope you get on ok , thanks for watching 👍
ESC signal wire pad come off its round can it be fixed how much you charge etc cheer I'm in derby East Midlands
Good 👍 , is clean 👌
What type of flux are you using?
Muito bom, Belo vídeo 👏
Brasil 🇧🇷
Hey , really appreciate your lovely comment . Glad you enjoyed the video.
bro my type c in my pcb thing snapped off, do you have any tips bc i know nothing about this
you have a surgeons hands
Hi . Thank you for your nice comment. I just wanted to show people what can be achieved , I've used this method underneath IC's lots of times and it really is invisible if done right. Good luck with any projects you try and thanks again👍
could you spread solder in the niche created by the damaged pads, instead of soldering replacement pads?
Sadly that doesn't work. Solder needs copper to adhere to. Unfortunately it won't stick to the board alone.
Perfect 😃
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , very much appreciated 👍
Is there are way to replace the legs on a small BIOS chip when they're broken off flush with the chip?
Hi . I would try to scrape around the end of the pin that's flush to the body and remove a small amount of the substance surrounding the pin . The internal parts of the IC are normally further into the body so you can get away this . I find I can normally always carefully with a scalpel , scrape a small amount of the body back and I would then have enough to solder to . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I was concerned with damaging the chip if I scraped it back. Thanks for the information.
Hi . You can go back a little into the body ( you only need a tiny amount ) this should give you enough to join to . I always tin the tiny amount I've exposed with small amount of solder then when I join up to it I put flux on the joint . Do the main bottom joint first onto the pad then the top joint really quickly ( as I do in the video ) as long as your quick it can be done . Good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 I was impressed with the video; is there any particular solder I should use?
Hi . Have you seen the video I posted about fixing back IC legs ? It's exactly what you need. For speed you can use leaded solder , even though most soldering is done these days with unleaded , but some industry's do have exemptions , so you can get leaded easily enough . Any decent quality solder will do ( I don't buy cheap solder ) , and I mainly use 0.25 mm solder for a job like this . So try and find my other videos ( there are in fact 2 posted that show pins being reattached onto IC's ) Thank you 👍
Acho suas soldas excelentes gostaria de saber qual é o tipo e a marca desse fluxo
obrigado pelo seu comentário. O fluxo que uso é chamado SMFL200D. Espero que ajude.👍
Thank you for this video. I have messed up three pads of switches on a keyboard pcb (they are gone, spacebar, left shift, and backspace), is it fixable the same way you did in this video? Will appreciate any input! I will never be able to do connecting them through a wire, so thinking if it is possible to fix them otherwise?
Hi . It's really difficult for me here as I haven't got the board in my hand to see the problem . All I can offer is my video's that show pad repairs and hopefully there's something of use there for you . I'm really sorry I can't offer more help. Thank you for your time and good luck .
太強的神人💪
Hi , thank you for watching the video 👍
I cannot do this type of repair. Do you accept items mailed to you with a detailed explanation of what needs to be done?
How do you remove flux trapped under SMD devices.
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting . I've posted a cleaning video on my channel , there is a method shown in this video with what you are asking , a bathing method which completely washes out flux from underneath devices . All the flux I've ever used is non corrosive flux so small amounts that are left on the boards do no damage at all anyway but I do still like my boards sparkling clean. Hope that helps 👍
Noob question here, but what about the other two pads just above those two? They don't seem to have traces running to them. Are they non functional or are the traces running too deep to see?
It could be a multilayer board, or they could have no use if the chip just has NC pads. Chips are made in common sizes and if you need less pins than 8 then it's easier to not connect them instead of making a different package
What if you don't have any scrap pcb's -- the only solder pads / lugs i can find on ebay are way too small, anyone know which exact term to use for larger pads/traces for repair (around 0.1mm - 0.5mm for traces, and around 0.5-1mm for the pads/holes) ?
Can I do this with a Gameboy advance motherboard?
Hi . I don't really know the motherboard in question so I can't really say , but I've done this fix on many different boards and I've always been ok . Thanks for watching and good luck 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you!
Thanx sir
Hi , thank you for your comment and support of my channel 👍
Fantastic video! May I please ask your opinion on using copper strips instead? You know the one with glue on one side that you can cut ti size?
Hi . The copper strips are fine to use , I have used them and I always cut them with a surgeons scalpel , not scissors. I just like to transfer pads from other boards as I know I can match the size perfectly especially if I need a pad with a bit of track coming out from it. Good luck and thank you for watching , much appreciated 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thank you a lot for your great answer, I did subscribe earlier today:-)
Hi . Thank you so much , much appreciated . I will be posting more videos soon ( just been a bit busy ) . Thanks again 👍
You don't glue the pads down?
You don't have to glue the new pads down?
He said if you have to hold the pad down in place, you must use Loctite Tak Pak 444 adhesive glue used for circuit boards. Epoxy Resin works, too.
The pcb looks made out of wax. How do you remove the pads with a solid Copper, Resin and Glass pcb?
Hi , this was one of my really early videos where I used a less effective camera and my editing skills were not great , people keep reminding me that my music to speech volumes were a bit out . All this has been improved greatly over the last year or two . The board in this video is standard FR4 material , probably one of the best types you can get . Pads are easy to remove , just a sharp scalpel flicking one corner up then simply peel upwards . Really easy . Hopefully I've understood your question correctly . Thanks for your comment 👍
Whats the smallest thing youve successfully soldered in?
Hi , thank you for your comment . I have successfully transposed pads from 0402 size components ( I have to for my job ) and recently I've been using 1 strand from a reel of 0.5mm solder braid to use as modification wire . Lots of what I do I can't show in videos as it's too small for my limited camera to show clearly . I just find if you do the large stuff really neatly and don't have a slap dash attitude you will eventually, successfully move on to smaller and smaller components , repairs etc . Thanks again for your time , take care 👍
@@mrsolderfix3996
Oh man that's crazy to me, maybe because I have little to no soldering skills, or because my hands are so shaky I could make butter in the meantime. I've tried desoldering a BIOS chip from a GPU because they both seemed to be active at the same time which prevented the mobo from booting, and have failed successfully by also removing the SMD resistors near PCI-E.
I bet I'm good enough at soldering to desolder what you've put in place, but the other way around, I don't think. :P
Wonder what's the world record of the smallest thing someone had soldered in and it worked.
Hi , if you have the right basic tools it definitely helps . My 3 main must haves are a fine conical tip on your iron , good flux and different size solders , particularly 0.25mm for fine pitch / small device work . Once you have them it's just things like microscopes , correct tweezers etc . Then I guess patience , which does become easier to master the more you do . I just hope I can help a few people by posting these videos , that's all I wanted to do . Thanks again for your support , take care 👍
I've seen neurosurgeons with shakier hands😮
Hi , thank you for watching the video and commenting , your support is very much appreciated 👍
If only bad pads were always so crisp
Usually they're a chunk of crumpled, corrosion 😅
Hi. Thank you for your comment👍
Hello! Do you have any social media accounts that i could contact you with? I want to ask how to fix my trace pad on my mech keyboard
Hi. No , sorry I don't do social media. All I can say really is what I've shown in the videos . I've done 4 at the moment with pad + trace repairs in them and I will be doing more in the future but every repair is different and without seeing yours it's impossible to answer you really . I'm really sorry.
@@mrsolderfix3996 Thanks for the very informative video , one of my capacitor leaked and I've removed it , I have a replacement capacitor there literally nothing to solder to because the round pad and track lifted. I have cleaned it up , I tried a little double sided foil but as soon as I drop a touch of solder the heat just lifts the foil. Is there anyway you can get some copper to stick to the board , I can't solder to anything like you did with the pads
I've looked at the solder repair kits with all the different shapes but would I face the same problem and they lift off the board?
I'm just wanting to mount the capacitor to the board and I can run a track from that to the where it should go .or is there a suitable glue to glue the cap pin in place and hold it , one side will solder, the other has nothing to solder to
PROPER naughty!
Why lead free? 63/37 is better.
Never grafted traces or pads myself, but on a trace that isn't being held down by the component, wouldn't it be a cleaner looking job if you made the grafted piece 1-2mm longer, tinned the break and solder it to the backside of the grafted track since it's exposed? You could even put solder mask over it to really secure it, maybe even a tiny bit under the pad on one of the sides to keep that secure as well
❤❤🤍🤍💚💚
❤❤🤍🤍💚💚
❤❤🤍🤍💚💚
Hi , thank you for your comment , much appreciated 👍