You have just invented the most easy to use doweling jig ever. This is one of the most innovative tools Woodpecker's has ever come out with. Give Ben a raise and be nice to him.
Incredible. Thank you Woodpeckers. Again and again, I am not affiliated with any part of Woodpeckers. Just love "fine" tools that makes woodworking a joy. Amen!
Looks impressive. I have a drill guide from another brand and the issue I run into is that when drilling through thick hardwood there’s a lot of wobble. I have to clamp the guide down to prevent this. Ot sure if this fence system will help but I might give it a try. I also wish these were more available in Canada. Shipping fees run almost $100.
Lord I'm glad you guys don't sell kitchenware. 😁 Can you imagine if the wife was trying fill the kitchen with Woodpecker-ware at the same time I was trying to fill the garage with Woodpecker-tools? 🤦♂ So, I'm at a point where I should just setup a monthly auto-transfer on my bank account to you. When the amount reaches enough to buy the next tool on my wish list, you simply deduct that amount from the balance and ship it out! Easy-Peasy, kind-of a lay-away plan of sorts. 😃 Anyway, nice tool guys, but I already have a long wish list that I'm working through.
I need help. I thought I was ordering an woodpecker on-line drill guide, but I received a copy that is definitely not a woodpecker product. Has anyone besides myself had this issue? Thanks
How about an indexing hole/pin in the fence- so that it can be used to drill ‘shelf pin’ holes or similar? So in your setup- drill the first hole using the fence against the base of the piece- as per your demonstration- but drill a 5mm hole. Then flip the fence to stabiliser mode- measure and index the 5mm hole/pin into the first drilled hole, in the piece. And proceed to drill the indexed 5mm holes along the piece using the side fence/stops. This also satisfies the suggestion for a pivot point to drill an arc. Two birds, one stone- Can we do it?
The cabinet base feet (2:28) is near to two corners. Drilling near corners with the auto line drill guide will be difficult, because it has only one fence. Also drilling in the small side of wood, near the edge. Apart from that Woodpeckers auto line drill guide is a very good tool. Greetings from Germany!
A hole in the center of the fence when in outrigger mode into which could be installed an indexing pin would allow quick and easy drilling of consistently spaced holes referenced off each other, such as for shelf pins or bench dog holes.
Great tool! I can think of several uses for the furniture we build in the shop everyday. Looking forward to getting it in my hands and putting it to work!
Please add a center line/mark on the fence for when drilling on the side of an item. It would allow for aligning two holes in adjacent planes (knock down).
This is a MUST for serious precision work.., however --- if you are not OCD when it comes to a clean and organized work area, AND obsessive about tool and accessory control --- many of the -- MANY -- parts WILL get lost --- very quickly. 10/10 on the Fit and Finish. (I'm a little weird... I admire beautiful tools... sometimes more than what they can accomplish!)
Love my auto-line but am having a problem with square alignment of bit. Seems that the chucks hex shank has a tiny bit of lateral play, whereby with a drill attached, a bit can be either on or off center of mark on workpiece depending on how you press down on the drill. With drill depressed to just above work peice surface, any shift in weight distribution on the drill results in lateral motion of the drill bit around the marked spot on workpiece. So it seems that after "centered and squared" drilling has begun, the bit could wobble off square at any point throughout the remaining descent. I realize that the "straightness" of the drill bits would be a factor, as well as the drill...variations in tolerance would accumulate and show up as alignment discrepancies at the end of the drill bit. But should the Auto-line exhibit any lateral play with a perfectly straight drill bit and no drill attached, manipulating only the bare hex shank? Thank you!!!
Thanks for the feedback. The play you are describing is actually engineered into the tool. In order for the plunge to work effectively you need some room. Rest assured this has been tested thoroughly. You should see less than a 1/32” tolerance in even the largest bits. For holes needing to be dead on, we recommend marking a cross hatch on the board and using a brad point bit. If you are seeing any more than that, contact customer service and we will take care of you
But no center hole in the fence to allow for drilling on an arc or radius. This was suggested a few times, at least once by me in an email back in January. Being able to dill a series of holes on a radius around a circle or an arc would be very useful. Seems like all you need is a hole in the fence and a center pin to do the basic stuff, but a flat plate with a pin and could be secured with double stick tape to the work surface so that the fence could drop over would mean a center hole was not required and would be even better. double stick tape should be fine since no lateral load is placed on it like there would be with a router circle jig.
Bob, The fence is aluminum. Drilling a hole in it for an axis point wouldn't be hard to do, and precision isn't critical...the distance from the center of the bit to the axis point doesn't have to be at the pinpoint center between the rods.
The sequence showing the setup for the corner offset only works if the hole is the same distance from the side and end of the workpiece. It won't work if, for example, the hole is closer to the end than the side. I'm sure you already know that, but please make it clear in your presentation.
I just found this product and was thinking about using it to drill pilot holes (for piers/boathouses) through the girders and round piling so that the 5/8 or 3/4 threaded rods ("through bolts") can be inserted through them. Those are always drilled by hand and what you always have is the entrance holes are nice looking and in line with each other but the exit holes are staggered because its such a long distance to drill and keep perfectly straight. Cosmetically, it would look so much better to have all threaded rods in line on both sides of the piling and not just on one side. Basically I need it to make it through a 1.5" thick girder, then through a piling usually 7-13" thick, and possibly a 2nd girder on the opposite side of piling that would also be 1.5" thick. We use 17" long ship auger bits to drill them out. What is the maximum amount of distance I would be able to drill with this drill guide? Can longer rods (not the fence rods but the rods supporting the drill itself) be purchased that would increase the depth and drill bit length? Even if I can't drill the entire distance needed, a hole that 3/4 of the way through would probably be enough to keep my exit holes in line with each other.
6:00 Unfortunately, the edge guide isn't opened at its center so that we could use a router bit to smooth out the edges of some wooden piece. Btw, is the drill guide precise enough (no wobbling) in order to use router bits?
Let's say that you wanted to drill an 8 inch hole through a piece of 4x4 that's 8 inches long. Is there a drill guide that will let you interchange the two rods that the drill guide glides up and down on to longer ones?
should have added a large screw in handle on the side or angled up to help hold the device better when using larger bits or holesaws, having fingers right next to bit on base is dangerous if it grabs
@@WoodpeckersLLC Not related to this tool but for a future video suggestion can you do a comparison between the various box clamping tools you sell. For example compare between the Steel Clamp Squares, Clamp Square Plus & CSP, and M2 Box Clamps. Keep the deep dive video's coming!
@@WoodpeckersLLC you should adopt a single spec for your extension rods on all your tools. It might appear less profitable in the short term, but people will buy more tools in the long term.
This is truly disappointing. I probably have $8k in woodpecker stuff and keep being let down by support. No response here. Why different rods? Why two different rods in this one tool?! I invested in the slab flattening rig, asking up front about concerns of improvements after I bought. I was assured that any would be add ons. They didn’t lie… I could throw my sled out and buy a new one for $400 plus the other new bits for the pro. I have yet to even use my original sled! The red anodizing fades. Fast! I have a wall of faded pink in my shop. Yes, they are built well, but for the price and the commitment… again… THOUSANDS … there should be a revolving, open ended dialog and upgrade path. Hire someone to deal with existing customers and make it right.
You're quite right. I meant to say a bit more than 2 feet, rather than almost 2 feet. In fact, it is 30 inches. 8 from the standard rods, and 11 from each extension.
Would be great if you had a version that would accept Festool rods to work with my track. Perhaps bushings in the base to accept different diameter rods.
Thank you for the demonstrations. Since I have pre-ordered and Customer Service has my email address, it would be nice if they would reach out to me and describe the upgrade offers, rather than me having to research them and then find their email address. I'm not sure a "cold" email from me would connect them with my specific order and I don't like to wait on a telephone line.
thats a pretty small hole. so much for hinge hardware. and why do you need to first put the centering pin in the side track. Why can't the long rod just go right into the base.
Hi, great channel, unfortunately because of RUclips and their live thumbnail previews which are so annoying, I won't be watching any more channels until they give us the option to turn them off, keep up the good work, hopefully it will change soon.
Those live thumbnails are a little annoying, however, if you park your mouse anywhere except on the thumbnails, they stop. I agree that turning them off should be an option, but since it isn't, I've just taken to moving my mouse up to the header bar until I need it.
Jeff, When you were setting up the side stop, why did you first have to insert the centering pin in the side hole before the 12” extension? Why not just insert the 12” extension without using the centering pin? Aren’t the thread sizes all the same for the holes in the base, the centering pins, and the extension rods?
Kevin, the holes in the base are 1/4-20. The extensions are 1/4" rod. To have a threaded hole in the end of the rods it has to be reduced. The centering pins were re-designed to be the adapter to allow the extension rods to be used without tying up one of the standard 8" rods. Hope that makes sense.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you for that reply but that generates another question. What is the diameter of the standard 8” rods? Are they 3/8” with 1/4-20 threads....or 5/16” with 1/4-20 threads?
You have just invented the most easy to use doweling jig ever. This is one of the most innovative tools Woodpecker's has ever come out with. Give Ben a raise and be nice to him.
Excellent products! Thanks!!!
This tool could replace the drill press in my small shop. Well done.
Add an angle adjust to the base for non-perpendicular ops. Nice product!
That's awesome 👍, I'm really going to get this. My wife is really particulate about things being centered.
Incredible. Thank you Woodpeckers.
Again and again, I am not affiliated with any part of Woodpeckers. Just love "fine" tools that makes woodworking a joy. Amen!
Looks impressive. I have a drill guide from another brand and the issue I run into is that when drilling through thick hardwood there’s a lot of wobble. I have to clamp the guide down to prevent this. Ot sure if this fence system will help but I might give it a try. I also wish these were more available in Canada. Shipping fees run almost $100.
His shirt!!! Same colors we all know and love from the Woodpeckers brand.
You guys are so very clever!
Lord I'm glad you guys don't sell kitchenware. 😁
Can you imagine if the wife was trying fill the kitchen with Woodpecker-ware at the same time I was trying to fill the garage with Woodpecker-tools? 🤦♂
So, I'm at a point where I should just setup a monthly auto-transfer on my bank account to you. When the amount reaches enough to buy the next tool on my wish list, you simply deduct that amount from the balance and ship it out! Easy-Peasy, kind-of a lay-away plan of sorts. 😃
Anyway, nice tool guys, but I already have a long wish list that I'm working through.
Fantastic for limited space workshops
I need help. I thought I was ordering an woodpecker on-line drill guide, but I received a copy that is definitely not a woodpecker product. Has anyone besides myself had this issue? Thanks
How about an indexing hole/pin in the fence- so that it can be used to drill ‘shelf pin’ holes or similar?
So in your setup- drill the first hole using the fence against the base of the piece- as per your demonstration- but drill a 5mm hole. Then flip the fence to stabiliser mode- measure and index the 5mm hole/pin into the first drilled hole, in the piece. And proceed to drill the indexed 5mm holes along the piece using the side fence/stops.
This also satisfies the suggestion for a pivot point to drill an arc. Two birds, one stone- Can we do it?
The cabinet base feet (2:28) is near to two corners. Drilling near corners with the auto line drill guide will be difficult, because it has only one fence. Also drilling in the small side of wood, near the edge. Apart from that Woodpeckers auto line drill guide is a very good tool. Greetings from Germany!
You have a fence with extensions from one side and a stop with extensions from the other. It's quite easy to locate from two edges.
A hole in the center of the fence when in outrigger mode into which could be installed an indexing pin would allow quick and easy drilling of consistently spaced holes referenced off each other, such as for shelf pins or bench dog holes.
Great tool! I can think of several uses for the furniture we build in the shop everyday. Looking forward to getting it in my hands and putting it to work!
Please add a center line/mark on the fence for when drilling on the side of an item. It would allow for aligning two holes in adjacent planes (knock down).
Center line on the fence would be a nice addition
A well machined (as you drill guide is) angle stop would be great. And, a wonderful tool you’ve made.
This is a MUST for serious precision work.., however --- if you are not OCD when it comes to a clean and organized work area, AND obsessive about tool and accessory control --- many of the -- MANY -- parts WILL get lost --- very quickly.
10/10 on the Fit and Finish. (I'm a little weird... I admire beautiful tools... sometimes more than what they can accomplish!)
WOw! That pretty much eliminates a drill press! Wish I would have seen this before I bought mine.
Totally different applications
@@daveklein2826
I wound up buying one. Its better then my drill press. It actually drills a tighter hole and is more versatile. For me anyway.
@@iwannaapple7190 I totally agree
This is awesome! I'll definitely be ordering
Great info as always. Thank you
Love my auto-line but am having a problem with square alignment of bit. Seems that the chucks hex shank has a tiny bit of lateral play, whereby with a drill attached, a bit can be either on or off center of mark on workpiece depending on how you press down on the drill. With drill depressed to just above work peice surface, any shift in weight distribution on the drill results in lateral motion of the drill bit around the marked spot on workpiece. So it seems that after "centered and squared" drilling has begun, the bit could wobble off square at any point throughout the remaining descent. I realize that the "straightness" of the drill bits would be a factor, as well as the drill...variations in tolerance would accumulate and show up as alignment discrepancies at the end of the drill bit. But should the Auto-line exhibit any lateral play with a perfectly straight drill bit and no drill attached, manipulating only the bare hex shank? Thank you!!!
Thanks for the feedback. The play you are describing is actually engineered into the tool. In order for the plunge to work effectively you need some room. Rest assured this has been tested thoroughly. You should see less than a 1/32” tolerance in even the largest bits. For holes needing to be dead on, we recommend marking a cross hatch on the board and using a brad point bit. If you are seeing any more than that, contact customer service and we will take care of you
But no center hole in the fence to allow for drilling on an arc or radius. This was suggested a few times, at least once by me in an email back in January. Being able to dill a series of holes on a radius around a circle or an arc would be very useful. Seems like all you need is a hole in the fence and a center pin to do the basic stuff, but a flat plate with a pin and could be secured with double stick tape to the work surface so that the fence could drop over would mean a center hole was not required and would be even better. double stick tape should be fine since no lateral load is placed on it like there would be with a router circle jig.
Bob, The fence is aluminum. Drilling a hole in it for an axis point wouldn't be hard to do, and precision isn't critical...the distance from the center of the bit to the axis point doesn't have to be at the pinpoint center between the rods.
The sequence showing the setup for the corner offset only works if the hole is the same distance from the side and end of the workpiece. It won't work if, for example, the hole is closer to the end than the side. I'm sure you already know that, but please make it clear in your presentation.
I thought the exact same thing. Misleading presentation on this feature.
It is slightly more complicated if your offsets aren't equal, but still a great deal easier than trying to line up to marks!
You are only stating the obvious... Any good woodworker could figure that out
Angle and it'll be ready for me to purchase.
Would be nice to be able to use a forstner bit of 35mm for hinge holes
As he says, they respond quickly to customers needs - oh wait, not really. That's just talk unless they can make money off of an accessory.
its the best tools ello from México
I just found this product and was thinking about using it to drill pilot holes (for piers/boathouses) through the girders and round piling so that the 5/8 or 3/4 threaded rods ("through bolts") can be inserted through them. Those are always drilled by hand and what you always have is the entrance holes are nice looking and in line with each other but the exit holes are staggered because its such a long distance to drill and keep perfectly straight. Cosmetically, it would look so much better to have all threaded rods in line on both sides of the piling and not just on one side. Basically I need it to make it through a 1.5" thick girder, then through a piling usually 7-13" thick, and possibly a 2nd girder on the opposite side of piling that would also be 1.5" thick. We use 17" long ship auger bits to drill them out. What is the maximum amount of distance I would be able to drill with this drill guide? Can longer rods (not the fence rods but the rods supporting the drill itself) be purchased that would increase the depth and drill bit length? Even if I can't drill the entire distance needed, a hole that 3/4 of the way through would probably be enough to keep my exit holes in line with each other.
How about being able to purchase a 2nd fence? Then I could still use one fence and have one to clamp on?
When Ben decides to make this drill guide tilt with telescopic stops let me know.
maybe a second version
6:00 Unfortunately, the edge guide isn't opened at its center so that we could use a router bit to smooth out the edges of some wooden piece. Btw, is the drill guide precise enough (no wobbling) in order to use router bits?
Drilling at a angle would good
I don't have a drill press but now I wonder if I will ever need one with this... Hmmm
Could this drill guide be used to bore horizontally like in boring a pen blank? Thanks
Let's say that you wanted to drill an 8 inch hole through a piece of 4x4 that's 8 inches long. Is there a drill guide that will let you interchange the two rods that the drill guide glides up and down on to longer ones?
Is it possible to add engraved measures on the rods?
If this had a stop bar similar to a plunge router I would buy it in an instant
You're in luck! It has a stop. It wasn't mentioned in the video you watched, but check out 2:15 in this one: ruclips.net/video/qD_gKF8AbbQ/видео.html
Since it is used to drill round holes, why does it have an oval shaped opening on the base?
Why is the extension rod on the side not screwed in directly?
The extensions have a different thread than the main fence rods. The centering pins provide the change from large to small connection.
should have added a large screw in handle on the side or angled up to help hold the device better when using larger bits or holesaws, having fingers right next to bit on base is dangerous if it grabs
I would like to send the complete set of auto line drill guides, how much does it cost to Germany? Kind regards
Enter your order at woodpeck.com. The shipping charge will be calculated and displayed before you commit to the final purchase.
Are the extension rods for the drill guide the same as one of the rod sets sold with the multi-function router base?
That would be really nice, but they're not the same size.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Not related to this tool but for a future video suggestion can you do a comparison between the various box clamping tools you sell. For example compare between the Steel Clamp Squares, Clamp Square Plus & CSP, and M2 Box Clamps. Keep the deep dive video's coming!
@@kurtpasewaldt Love that idea, Kurt. I will start working on it. You'll see it soon.
@@WoodpeckersLLC you should adopt a single spec for your extension rods on all your tools. It might appear less profitable in the short term, but people will buy more tools in the long term.
Any chance of interchangeability with the guide rail kit? I already have lots of rails!
This is truly disappointing. I probably have $8k in woodpecker stuff and keep being let down by support. No response here. Why different rods? Why two different rods in this one tool?! I invested in the slab flattening rig, asking up front about concerns of improvements after I bought. I was assured that any would be add ons. They didn’t lie… I could throw my sled out and buy a new one for $400 plus the other new bits for the pro. I have yet to even use my original sled! The red anodizing fades. Fast! I have a wall of faded pink in my shop. Yes, they are built well, but for the price and the commitment… again… THOUSANDS … there should be a revolving, open ended dialog and upgrade path. Hire someone to deal with existing customers and make it right.
Will the extension rods from the new router base work on this tool?
Sorry, Bill, they won't. The router base rods are significantly larger.
1:26 I don't have the trained eye of a master woodworker, but that looks longer than 2 feet away from the bit.
You're quite right. I meant to say a bit more than 2 feet, rather than almost 2 feet. In fact, it is 30 inches. 8 from the standard rods, and 11 from each extension.
Needs a larger base option
Is there a mechanism to control depth?
There's a depth stop on one of the guide rods.
Would be great if you had a version that would accept Festool rods to work with my track. Perhaps bushings in the base to accept different diameter rods.
Thank you for the demonstrations. Since I have pre-ordered and Customer Service has my email address, it would be nice if they would reach out to me and describe the upgrade offers, rather than me having to research them and then find their email address. I'm not sure a "cold" email from me would connect them with my specific order and I don't like to wait on a telephone line.
kick ass. how is the g10 selling??????/
thats a pretty small hole. so much for hinge hardware. and why do you need to first put the centering pin in the side track. Why can't the long rod just go right into the base.
Can i make new order?
That looked like more than 2 feet. Maybe I heard wrong.
It is. It is about 30"
I order but been cancel by seller...?
Hi, great channel, unfortunately because of RUclips and their live thumbnail previews which are so annoying, I won't be watching any more channels until they give us the option to turn them off, keep up the good work, hopefully it will change soon.
Those live thumbnails are a little annoying, however, if you park your mouse anywhere except on the thumbnails, they stop. I agree that turning them off should be an option, but since it isn't, I've just taken to moving my mouse up to the header bar until I need it.
LMAO
Truly, this should have the ability to do angle cuts. Yeah, you can make an angle block but it's mediocre in it's design at present
Is this device shipping?
It will start shipping in June.
Pretty frustrating that you are advertising this and you are back ordered to June for an order I placed in January.
The waiting is just damn painful isn't it??? 🤣
Great products but you cannot be productive when you have to wait six months to a year for them to deliver. It's like this all over their offerings.
Can I come live with you, and share all you wonderful tools? I can cook like a beast and life hay barrels better than Lennie from of Mice and Men.
Paid SGD 28.18 BUT ...CANCEL MONEY HAVE REFUND
Sorry you were a victim of fraud. I can assure you, that wasn't us.
not new just changed ben around for long time
"almost 2 feet"? I need exactly 24 inches!
Actually, it's 30 inches. 8 inches standard, plus 11 on each extension. I should have done the math before I started running my mouth.
@@WoodpeckersLLC 😂
Jeff,
When you were setting up the side stop, why did you first have to insert the centering pin in the side hole before the 12” extension? Why not just insert the 12” extension without using the centering pin? Aren’t the thread sizes all the same for the holes in the base, the centering pins, and the extension rods?
Kevin, the holes in the base are 1/4-20. The extensions are 1/4" rod. To have a threaded hole in the end of the rods it has to be reduced. The centering pins were re-designed to be the adapter to allow the extension rods to be used without tying up one of the standard 8" rods. Hope that makes sense.
@@WoodpeckersLLC Thank you for that reply but that generates another question. What is the diameter of the standard 8” rods? Are they 3/8” with 1/4-20 threads....or 5/16” with 1/4-20 threads?
This product very nice but no sow moreamazon
... to the corner, two edges. Sorry!
$270 for a drill guide? Seriously?
"$30,000 for a watch? Hundreds of thousands of dollars for a car? Seriously?" See where am I going with this???
Too many parts and cannot drill in at an angle. I'm not interested
@@BlackSwan912 I also run around on you tube to seek attention from another nut sack.
@@BlackSwan912 what nut sack are we going to attack next?