We have been using the Siligun for about 6 months now - have 4 of them always loaded with various caulks and glues standing upright in the workshop with a cap on top - love them.
Man I’m glad you reviewed this! I found it a year ago and almost ordered it a few times, but just couldn’t convince myself to have faith in a mechanism like that made from plastic. I emailed the company and asked if they have plans to make a premium metal version, but never heard back from them.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I’ve started using the silicone with soap & water method in every scenario I can get away with it, like anywhere except against a ceiling basically. And it’s been WAAAY better then Dap. Dap sucks for shrinkage, cracking, fading in the sun and their white is just transparent enough you can often see lines through it. And actually does leave a bit of film smudge on each side of the bead. I HIGHLY recommend the soap & water silicone method if you haven’t tried it. And the line turns out even cleaner.
I bought one a while ago. I found the same issues you did with it. It’s good in a bathroom, shooting silicone or dap in tight spots but other than that it’s just not as convenient as the old style. Also, after using it for a few weeks, I found that I often have to help it push the tube through by grabbing the front of the tube and forcing it through. I couldn’t get it to work with PL Premium at all, it just wouldn’t grab the tube. I think that’s a combination of the tube being cardboard and the material so much thicker than caulk. Thanks for the video.
Not being able to rotate the tube in the gun is a massive deal breaker for me. Perhaps this is great for finishers or perhaps people doing custom animal enclosures or aquariums where you need tight space access. Then again, many of those custom builders will have angled nozzles to fit their needs.
Another possible future issue I see from this product is the knife that splits the tube. I've never seen a blade that that won't dull through either usage or moisture/air/time. If it can't be easily replaced, that thing will stop functioning even as well as it did in the video before too long.
I’ve seen a representative for the company, he said the blade is built to last 500-1000 caulk tubes and is able to be replaced. That said, I’ve thrown away caulk guns before after around 200 tubes but then again the gun was 5$
I fit doors and windows in work. We swap between white silicon and transparent and also acril so alone the cutting of the tube would be annoying. And to have three guns for the three different types of tubes we use would take up space.
Perfect example of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." There's a reason why the design of the basic cartridge sealant gun has remained the same ever since sealant has been sold in cartridges- on top of the control issues you mentioned, you kind of need the stability of both hands to get a good, steady, even application- with a regular cartridge gun, you can put your hands in a multitude of positions for control, I feel like this would just be too unstable for anything other than inside corners, especially with a full cartridge. On top of that, I can see that the built-in knife is causing a problem with dispensing because it's splitting and deforming the cartridge and preventing the plunger from making a good seal, and some of the sealant is left still stuck inside the cartridge.
I was looking into this for grout caulking toilets. I do hotel renovation and we usually pull every toilet temporarily to do the floors/walls and caulking in between a tub and toilet is nearly impossible with a full tube. I don't like that you cant turn the tube and it seems cheaply made but maybe it has a niche application?
I saw this several months ago on a different construction channel. They said the only issue is that it’s hard to get into tight areas once the “gun” part gets too close to the tip.
@@diWHY_Jake I’m talking width not length. It gets so fat down by the tip (that’s what she said) that it’s hard to get into tight areas (again, that’s what she said)
Really good to know.. 🤔 I'm soon finishing my school to be a house partner.. Stuff like this is gold for me! 👍 I'm going to get a drippless one.. And cut the tip as your other video.. 😅👍
The holder in the tube could be manufactured to allow the inner assembly to be rotated maybe with a lever that is open and closed. Have to love the size though. Maybe a smaller gun in general might work. I wonder if they make like 1/2 sized guns and tubs for tight areas other than just a hand-squeeze plastic tube.
I've debated one for tight corners with partial tubes... re-caulking behind pedestal sinks and the like. It's an "or" tool. It should never be your primary, but to flush out a kit for niche applications? It's got a place.
I like a phneumatiac sylicone gun. have a external air regulator to set psi, no long rod hanging out the back, no squeezing handle and consistent bead of sylicone. con is need a air compressor and long air hose.
Pretty sure that for my small hands and inexperience, this may be far less intimidating to try and use then the real caulk gun. If I can get the job done with this to my own satisfaction, I would call it money well spent. I may try it. Thanks for a great video.
if they want to make a new caulking gun make one that can empty a whole tube on a single triggerpull. getting an imperfection because you had to let go of and re-depress the trigger on a long bead is one of my only gripes about the old metal guns. This is especially true when using caulking outside and have to lay down bigger beads.
I looked at it at HD. Concerned about the blade to cut the tube. As it dulls will it be harder to squeeze the caulk out? Biggest omission is no built in needle to punch the silicone tubes. I’m having a few beers instead of buying this.
Not exactly true, but almost. I’ve been several decades in the renovation business and have found only 2 true dripless guns and about 20 that claim to be dripless but are just bullsh*t. The true dripless ones have a totally different spring arrangement (actually 2 springs) and they slightly retract the plunger (and the caulking) as soon as you let go of the trigger. There is no drip or run-on whatsoever and no interruption in flow while you’re caulking. The ones I currently have come from Taiwan and are almost impossible to find. There is no brand name and you definitely won’t find them at any of the box stores in my experience. I found these ones at a nearby flea market tool dealer and bought a bunch. They cost $9.00 each.
A powered gun is great for bulk application where there's a fatigue factor involved. But forget about finessing the flow rate to get a joint you almost don't have to tool. Virtually impossible, unlike the traditional manual gun.
I've used one extensively for doing cove base in a hotel renovation. We did cove base in over 100 rooms and with a helper laying out all the straight pieces you can run behind them with a 3 way nozzle and it's way faster than by hand. And much easier on the wrist. Totally worth it if you're doing hundreds of linear feet of cove base or something similar. Mine is a dewalt DCE570 (the big tubes) and I love it.
Recently did a caulk and paint job where this would’ve been handy (short length) in a few spots. I think we all have “specialty” tools that we use occasionally but make life easier. My problem is remembering I have them. Lol
I see what you mean about the trigger response. Also, I have stopped cutting open the tips of the caulking tubes too much . So thanks for that tip as well.
As the caulk gets used up, the length of the tube gets shorter in front of your hand. This means your hand will be much closer to the working surface and in many instances that makes the job significantly more difficult. I'll stick with my trusty skeleton style caulk gun.
What a fail! Sure, there are some things that seem beneficial about it. The first thing I thought when seeing this is that your trigger is always a different distance to the tip, which is going to cause issues, especially when you near the end.
I bought this......Works good when new. after about a case (12) tubes, the sand paper grip that advances the tube wears out..... The only other complaint is the metal rod that punctures the tube is a bitch to remove and then it cuts your hand putting back in it's spot. Hi viscosity glue.....Forget it ! Grab the old standby Cool idea...... fix the faults then you have something
It’s a good idea but poor execution. I think if it was made of metal that would eliminate the lag. Also a few metal tips in more sizes and angles that threads tight on the tube nozzle would be a nice way to make sure you’re always getting the exact same amount and angle. The tube cutting part should be a standard box knife blade for servicing. I know it’s crazy but I can see a lot of people buying these for $70 if it’s made in USA.
So I'm other words you haven't used it enough to get used to it, because so many others in the bushes are now using it with no issues. Use the gun everyday and you'll realize it's superior over the old style
It’s junk compared to a pro quality conventional dripless gun. Can’t spin the tube, but ALSO not all tubes will work. PL cardboard tubes, forget it. The pressure can blow them out, plus you have to cut off the metal end ring. But all that said it has one redeeming quality.. it will fit where you’d normally need the always sketchy “plastic tubing over the tip” hack which always fails and makes a mess.
Great idea, poor design...it wasn't the tool for every job. Mine fell apart within a few weeks. Plastic construction needs to be re imagined with good old metal framing cartridge.
We have been using the Siligun for about 6 months now - have 4 of them always loaded with various caulks and glues standing upright in the workshop with a cap on top - love them.
Man I’m glad you reviewed this!
I found it a year ago and almost ordered it a few times, but just couldn’t convince myself to have faith in a mechanism like that made from plastic. I emailed the company and asked if they have plans to make a premium metal version, but never heard back from them.
It would definitely not be great for precise cabinet caulking.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter I’ve started using the silicone with soap & water method in every scenario I can get away with it, like anywhere except against a ceiling basically. And it’s been WAAAY better then Dap.
Dap sucks for shrinkage, cracking, fading in the sun and their white is just transparent enough you can often see lines through it. And actually does leave a bit of film smudge on each side of the bead.
I HIGHLY recommend the soap & water silicone method if you haven’t tried it.
And the line turns out even cleaner.
Yup I bought 1 and it just sits in the van. It came in handy once so far , so once a year use, most likely. I enjoy your content 👍
Thanks Richard
I have a caulk gun that I bought with my first home purchase in 1972. Still use it.
Concise and to the point! Good, honest review. Thanks!
I like the marker line that shows you where the point of the tip is 😊
Hi my friend it was helpful thank you💙🙏👍
You are so welcome
Excellent analysis, thank you. Not a replacement for my durable metal caulk gun.
I bought one a while ago. I found the same issues you did with it. It’s good in a bathroom, shooting silicone or dap in tight spots but other than that it’s just not as convenient as the old style. Also, after using it for a few weeks, I found that I often have to help it push the tube through by grabbing the front of the tube and forcing it through. I couldn’t get it to work with PL Premium at all, it just wouldn’t grab the tube. I think that’s a combination of the tube being cardboard and the material so much thicker than caulk. Thanks for the video.
Not being able to rotate the tube in the gun is a massive deal breaker for me.
Perhaps this is great for finishers or perhaps people doing custom animal enclosures or aquariums where you need tight space access. Then again, many of those custom builders will have angled nozzles to fit their needs.
Another possible future issue I see from this product is the knife that splits the tube. I've never seen a blade that that won't dull through either usage or moisture/air/time. If it can't be easily replaced, that thing will stop functioning even as well as it did in the video before too long.
Good point
I’ve seen a representative for the company, he said the blade is built to last 500-1000 caulk tubes and is able to be replaced. That said, I’ve thrown away caulk guns before after around 200 tubes but then again the gun was 5$
I fit doors and windows in work. We swap between white silicon and transparent and also acril so alone the cutting of the tube would be annoying. And to have three guns for the three different types of tubes we use would take up space.
Perfect example of "If it ain't broke, don't fix it." There's a reason why the design of the basic cartridge sealant gun has remained the same ever since sealant has been sold in cartridges- on top of the control issues you mentioned, you kind of need the stability of both hands to get a good, steady, even application- with a regular cartridge gun, you can put your hands in a multitude of positions for control, I feel like this would just be too unstable for anything other than inside corners, especially with a full cartridge. On top of that, I can see that the built-in knife is causing a problem with dispensing because it's splitting and deforming the cartridge and preventing the plunger from making a good seal, and some of the sealant is left still stuck inside the cartridge.
I've been thinking about buying this for the last year, I'm glad u made a video so I can figure out if it's a good buy or not
It definitely looks a lot better than it actually performs.
tajima lite convoy is my favorite. you can unscrew the barrel to insert the caulking tube. had it for 3 years now.
I'll have to check that one out! Thanks
Not being able to spin the tube in the gun is dealbreaker for me. Good comparison though! 👍
I was looking into this for grout caulking toilets. I do hotel renovation and we usually pull every toilet temporarily to do the floors/walls and caulking in between a tub and toilet is nearly impossible with a full tube. I don't like that you cant turn the tube and it seems cheaply made but maybe it has a niche application?
That’s a good point on the toilet. I’m going to check that out and see if it would be good for that
I saw this several months ago on a different construction channel. They said the only issue is that it’s hard to get into tight areas once the “gun” part gets too close to the tip.
I recommend cutting out the extra tube! Makes it the most compact caulk gun out there.
@@diWHY_Jake I’m talking width not length. It gets so fat down by the tip (that’s what she said) that it’s hard to get into tight areas (again, that’s what she said)
Really good to know.. 🤔 I'm soon finishing my school to be a house partner.. Stuff like this is gold for me! 👍 I'm going to get a drippless one.. And cut the tip as your other video.. 😅👍
The holder in the tube could be manufactured to allow the inner assembly to be rotated maybe with a lever that is open and closed. Have to love the size though. Maybe a smaller gun in general might work. I wonder if they make like 1/2 sized guns and tubs for tight areas other than just a hand-squeeze plastic tube.
Thanks for this review. My interest was piqued for maybe half a minute a year ago when it was all over IG and FB
😂🍻
I've debated one for tight corners with partial tubes... re-caulking behind pedestal sinks and the like. It's an "or" tool. It should never be your primary, but to flush out a kit for niche applications? It's got a place.
If anything... it's a great out of the box idea!
(No innuendo intended)
:) You can't escape the innuendo!
Thanks for the video ,i think i will stick to the old ones , Ps i enjoy your videos
Thanks buddy I appreciate the support!
I like a phneumatiac sylicone gun. have a external air regulator to set psi, no long rod hanging out the back, no squeezing handle and consistent bead of sylicone. con is need a air compressor and long air hose.
This could be a good option for tight spaces like baseboard behind the hopper!!
I think it is great for interior work on old remodel house
Pretty sure that for my small hands and inexperience, this may be far less intimidating to try and use then the real caulk gun. If I can get the job done with this to my own satisfaction, I would call it money well spent. I may try it. Thanks for a great video.
if they want to make a new caulking gun make one that can empty a whole tube on a single triggerpull. getting an imperfection because you had to let go of and re-depress the trigger on a long bead is one of my only gripes about the old metal guns. This is especially true when using caulking outside and have to lay down bigger beads.
They have a metal version of that gun too
I looked at it at HD. Concerned about the blade to cut the tube. As it dulls will it be harder to squeeze the caulk out? Biggest omission is no built in needle to punch the silicone tubes. I’m having a few beers instead of buying this.
Looks like it would come in handy around toilets and other tight spaces😎🛠️😎🛠️😎
That's a good use case Ted
Depends how silly it is... xD thank you thank you I'll be here all night.
Interesting concept, I wonder if a version 2 could fix the issues
I think there may be a reason the caulking gun had remained pretty much unchanged for 50 years.
No matter how well designed, a caulk gun will always get the runs.
Not exactly true, but almost. I’ve been several decades in the renovation business and have found only 2 true dripless guns and about 20 that claim to be dripless but are just bullsh*t. The true dripless ones have a totally different spring arrangement (actually 2 springs) and they slightly retract the plunger (and the caulking) as soon as you let go of the trigger. There is no drip or run-on whatsoever and no interruption in flow while you’re caulking. The ones I currently have come from Taiwan and are almost impossible to find. There is no brand name and you definitely won’t find them at any of the box stores in my experience. I found these ones at a nearby flea market tool dealer and bought a bunch. They cost $9.00 each.
Have you tried the Makita 18v caulking gun?
ive had 3 never last. they slip .but i keep one for tight areas still use the standard gun
I tried it for caulking siding and it didn’t work very well. But that’s a very thick silicone, so maybe it works better for DAP
It works better with Dap, but still lacks the finesse trigger control.
Have you ever used a powered caulking gun? Thoughts?
Great comment Tony, I'm going to order one today! I've never used one before but I should definitely try them- a lot of people swear by them.
Good Grief those guns are expensive!!!
The Ryobi is affordable. Makita not so much.
A powered gun is great for bulk application where there's a fatigue factor involved. But forget about finessing the flow rate to get a joint you almost don't have to tool. Virtually impossible, unlike the traditional manual gun.
I've used one extensively for doing cove base in a hotel renovation. We did cove base in over 100 rooms and with a helper laying out all the straight pieces you can run behind them with a 3 way nozzle and it's way faster than by hand. And much easier on the wrist. Totally worth it if you're doing hundreds of linear feet of cove base or something similar. Mine is a dewalt DCE570 (the big tubes) and I love it.
What about taking the caulk out of the gun to save for later. Does the cutting of the tube effect it at all?
Good point to bring up Ted- You can take it out and put it back in, but it's a bit tricky compared to a regular gun.
Recently did a caulk and paint job where this would’ve been handy (short length) in a few spots. I think we all have “specialty” tools that we use occasionally but make life easier. My problem is remembering I have them. Lol
What is the best caulk gun to use to fill gaps inside kitchen cabinets/small spaces?
I'd use a hand held squeeze tube
👍👍👍
I wouldn't like how the distance to the tip would keep moving up instead of staying constant.
Not an everyday gun but I do like for tight spots in custom showers where I can cut the tube down
So what gun do you prefer the yellow ch200 or the red 930-G
Thanks
Dude, I was given this like a month ago lol trigger pull is nice but it is annoying that you can't rotate the tube because it is cut
I agree, although I do find the trigger response to not really be super connected to what is actual coming out of the tip.
I see what you mean about the trigger response. Also, I have stopped cutting open the tips of the caulking tubes too much . So thanks for that tip as well.
After a going thru a case of caulk, the grip on the inside of the ring loses its gripping power.
As the caulk gets used up, the length of the tube gets shorter in front of your hand. This means your hand will be much closer to the working surface and in many instances that makes the job significantly more difficult. I'll stick with my trusty skeleton style caulk gun.
Omg 😲 all that PL premium!! Son that was the first year tuition for your kids
I would agree and not really buy or use just because you can’t turn it
What a fail! Sure, there are some things that seem beneficial about it. The first thing I thought when seeing this is that your trigger is always a different distance to the tip, which is going to cause issues, especially when you near the end.
That's an excellent point about the trigger and the tip distance constantly changing.
Yep, Not for me. I don't like to try too hard to squeeze out the thick stuff. 😀
Nothing worse🍻
Don't like that your hand has to move up closer to the work as you go
I bought this......Works good when new. after about a case (12) tubes, the sand paper grip that advances the tube wears out.....
The only other complaint is the metal rod that punctures the tube is a bitch to remove and then it cuts your hand putting back in it's spot.
Hi viscosity glue.....Forget it ! Grab the old standby
Cool idea...... fix the faults then you have something
Useful for getting around toilets in hundred year old buildings with absolutely no clearance around them but not much else.
Yep.. certainly has it's short comings so to speak.
It’s a good idea but poor execution. I think if it was made of metal that would eliminate the lag. Also a few metal tips in more sizes and angles that threads tight on the tube nozzle would be a nice way to make sure you’re always getting the exact same amount and angle. The tube cutting part should be a standard box knife blade for servicing. I know it’s crazy but I can see a lot of people buying these for $70 if it’s made in USA.
I forgot the metal tips would be tight on the nozzle but able to rotate around and lock in place.
Only good for getting into right spaces
Only thing i hate more then caulking is painting.
"Smaller Package"!🤣🤣🤣"Thick Stuff"!🤣🤣🤣 I was looking to buy a drip free gun and you helped me decide not to buy this one.
I use it for tight places like around toilets🇫🇮🤠
i would not be a fan of the fact that the tip distance from your hands changes as you empty the tube
Solving a problem that doesn't exist.
So I'm other words you haven't used it enough to get used to it, because so many others in the bushes are now using it with no issues. Use the gun everyday and you'll realize it's superior over the old style
No. In my words it’s not good. At all.
They make an “pro” version of this and it’s made of aluminium.
Long story short: old caulk works far better than new, nice large package and great to fill holes………… WHAT.! Was it something I said?
Not changing your name to “The Sili Carpenter” in honor of the siligun amendment take it! Get it…funny…silly…sili.
I ran it up the flagpole and it came back a no:)
I didn't hear ANY positives except the shorter length. A BIG no! Thank you!!!!
"A door I *had* hung..." You mean you hired someone to do it??? rotfl I jest, just like you ;)
If it's plastic, it will break.
It’s junk compared to a pro quality conventional dripless gun. Can’t spin the tube, but ALSO not all tubes will work. PL cardboard tubes, forget it. The pressure can blow them out, plus you have to cut off the metal end ring. But all that said it has one redeeming quality.. it will fit where you’d normally need the always sketchy “plastic tubing over the tip” hack which always fails and makes a mess.
"oriented" preferred to "orientated"
It seems gimmicky to be honest. The only thing I will say, is if it ain’t broke don’t fix it.
Junk in my opinion. two of mine failed.
Great idea, poor design...it wasn't the tool for every job. Mine fell apart within a few weeks. Plastic construction needs to be re imagined with good old metal framing cartridge.
The answer is no, it will not make you better
What you would expect of a product from China.
Lmao. No one likes a bullpup
There are people that know there job and many don't, fancy tools are for amateurs they don't know what they are doing. Hopeless!