Excellent video. Excellent presenter. You have a real talent in the way you present and talk. Please do more videos. I actually think you could end up with your own show on the BBC. Top bloke. You have a new subscriber
Many thanks. Brilliant example of what to do and your chatting throughout was very easy to follow and understand. Just what I needed. Now feel confident to do it myself 🙂
I used Gapotape on mine because a lot of the rafters were skewed slightly. As you say, Gapotape is expensive, but I found that if I cut the boards 5mm narrower (as opposed to the recommended 8-10mm) then I only needed to Gapotape along one side. This still gives the flexibility that Gapotape gives you and allows a tight friction fit on the other side, but only half the amount of Gapotape required.
Mark I really enjoyed your video. It's great how you talk right the way through explaining every little problem and your thoughts. So keep up the good work. A question: Would the insulation boards not get loose over time? Also would you not have cut the boards a couple of mm bigger for interference fit? You might find it a bit easier if you get hold of a couple of saw horses and a timber board for support.
Appreciate the feedback and additional information. Useful and helpful. The insulation board is stable and won't shrink or expand so it shouldn't fall out. However, there is also still foil tape to apply and there will be a further layer of insulation plasterboard underneath. So it can't drop once that is in place. If you can mease just a couple of mm too big it should be possible to wack it home so that would help. Thanks again. Mark
Good job. I'm doing the same but on my living room solid wall. Used 25x50mm battens with DPC behind them. And fix the 50mm Insulated plasterboard to them. Used a Jigsaw. Made a mistake at the reveal so had to buy another board. But it's a learning curve. The friction fitting is a good idea especially for the last smaller bits too. Had to leave a 15mm gap at the bottom. The wall is so old and out of Plumb it was a nightmare!
Very hard to cut a thick bord so straight that it will be airtight all way! 2 mm askew and heat leaks, warm vs cold = moisture and mold. Cut 1 cm narrower on each side and fill it up with sprayfoam! Are like glued to the wood construction and completely airtight. Did that 21 years ago and still good
I have a question. Are you insulating the whole way down the rafters or will you insulate between the hangers there that are supporting them. Also, If you had lower cable ties across the top. WOuld you insulate over them or run the whole way up the rafters only.??
Building inspector said I could do either. I'm going all the way down to the bottom of the rafters where they meet the plate. Because I want to have cupboards between the hangers. I wasn't sure what you meant about the cable ties? Let me know?
@@MarksHouseandGardenUK Apologies, I meant collar ties. Im currently about to start this and there would be large volumes of air behind the hangers and above the collar ties. This could be good for air circulation ...but it could also be bad perhaps?
Excellent video. Excellent presenter. You have a real talent in the way you present and talk. Please do more videos. I actually think you could end up with your own show on the BBC. Top bloke. You have a new subscriber
Wow. THANK YOU. I'm delighted with your feedback and I will certainly do more content. 🙏🙏🙏
I'm in total agreement with that - couldn't have said it any better. Excellent video... thanks Mark! Paul.
Many thanks. Brilliant example of what to do and your chatting throughout was very easy to follow and understand. Just what I needed. Now feel confident to do it myself 🙂
I used Gapotape on mine because a lot of the rafters were skewed slightly. As you say, Gapotape is expensive, but I found that if I cut the boards 5mm narrower (as opposed to the recommended 8-10mm) then I only needed to Gapotape along one side. This still gives the flexibility that Gapotape gives you and allows a tight friction fit on the other side, but only half the amount of Gapotape required.
Thanks. I feel confident to start insulate my garage.
Mark I really enjoyed your video. It's great how you talk right the way through explaining every little problem and your thoughts. So keep up the good work. A question: Would the insulation boards not get loose over time? Also would you not have cut the boards a couple of mm bigger for interference fit? You might find it a bit easier if you get hold of a couple of saw horses and a timber board for support.
Appreciate the feedback and additional information. Useful and helpful. The insulation board is stable and won't shrink or expand so it shouldn't fall out. However, there is also still foil tape to apply and there will be a further layer of insulation plasterboard underneath. So it can't drop once that is in place. If you can mease just a couple of mm too big it should be possible to wack it home so that would help. Thanks again. Mark
Good job. I'm doing the same but on my living room solid wall. Used 25x50mm battens with DPC behind them. And fix the 50mm Insulated plasterboard to them. Used a Jigsaw. Made a mistake at the reveal so had to buy another board. But it's a learning curve. The friction fitting is a good idea especially for the last smaller bits too. Had to leave a 15mm gap at the bottom. The wall is so old and out of Plumb it was a nightmare!
Sounds like it will be a great deal warmer. It's nice to know I'm not the only one on a learning curve 🙏
When measuring the boards to cut use the tape measure the other way around and used the metal nib to indent the board to save marking twice with a pen
Great tip thanks Steve. I've seen that since on other vids. Will try it in future. Mark
Very hard to cut a thick bord so straight that it will be airtight all way! 2 mm askew and heat leaks, warm vs cold = moisture and mold. Cut 1 cm narrower on each side and fill it up with sprayfoam! Are like glued to the wood construction and completely airtight. Did that 21 years ago and still good
Well done, sir.
Brilliant 👏 👏 👏 👏
I have a question. Are you insulating the whole way down the rafters or will you insulate between the hangers there that are supporting them. Also, If you had lower cable ties across the top. WOuld you insulate over them or run the whole way up the rafters only.??
Building inspector said I could do either. I'm going all the way down to the bottom of the rafters where they meet the plate. Because I want to have cupboards between the hangers. I wasn't sure what you meant about the cable ties? Let me know?
@@MarksHouseandGardenUK Apologies, I meant collar ties. Im currently about to start this and there would be large volumes of air behind the hangers and above the collar ties. This could be good for air circulation ...but it could also be bad perhaps?
thanks Mark
Thanks Mark. You're welcome. Looking forward to sharing the rest of this project
12:32 Sounds like R2D2 if you were to take a blade to it
Lol I'll go have a listen, sounds funny
If you get more experienced, you wont need a hammer, just a thought 👍
Yeah thanks for that. It's a beginner's guide...and I'm a beginner. Just starting out, no expert.