Replace ANY welded / plastic riveted keyboard the CORRECT WAY.
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- Опубликовано: 4 авг 2024
- Most which have tried to replace a riveted keyboard have either ended up with a mushy keyboard or it only lasted for a short while before it became mushy i places. In this tutorial i explain what mistakes others have made and how you can avoid these mistakes so as to end up with a permanently repaired, firm keyboard without having to replace the entire keyboard faceplate (palm rest) and of course save money.
0:00 Understanding what a plastic riveted keyboard is and why so many fail to replace one
4:16 The teardown process of the device and how to place parts
5:50 Identifying the rivets and understanding the keyboard assembly
7:32 Removing the rivet crowns so as to remove the backplate. What not to do to make sure you have a good repair
11:14 how to remove the backplate and keyboard once rivets are removed
13:00 Recreating the rivets to hold the new keyboard assembly. What to use and what not to do
JSYK, this worked. Thank you! No lie, it took my husband all day. My husband is amazing and patient, but he took this advice and followed it, saving him from having to figure it out solo. He has done many similar things. This is NOT a beginner’s job for sure! He had to use his lathe to fashion a new tip for his soldering iron, wanting fine control over its shape. I went out and bought him a dremmel tool. (It’s the least I could do besides feeding him during the ordeal.) Wow. That’s all I can say. What a long drawn out process! Why do they design keyboards this way?!
Thanks so much for your comment and feedback. I am glad the tutorial helped. It is not a job for the faint harted or a begginer. I am glad it worked out. Coudos to your husband and of course you for keeping him fed.
@@paphitisn i am in a tricky spot my keyboards not fully died at moments it works almost perfectly but if it does die the laptop can't be turned the annoyance is almost worth living with but ik to save my laptop in the long run i need to replace this keyboard as the keyboard has the power button on it but this would be the most challenging repair i've ever done i'm not used to soldering i heard uv glue might work thoughts
@@apirlfools i have tried UV glue in the past and it gives a reasonable result. Saying that though, keyboards that had general use worked well. Keyboards that were used for gamming did not last and after about 6 months some of the glued rivets gave, resulting in a mushy keyboard.
I had never considered melting a ziptie onto a plastic rivet before. Thank you for sharing this knowledge.
Let me know how it goes of you give it a go. It creates a great bond. The keyboard i repaired in this video is still working great and more importantly feels really solid.
@@paphitisn Okay 👍 I'll let you know
doesn't always work, material of the zip ties matter
Thank you.
I managed to get the old keyboard out by carefully popping each rivet with a fine, long flat blade screwdriver.
Zip tie trick worked a treat.
About 2 hrs total. Keyboard feels nice.
That is awesome. Well done! Was this your first riveted keyboard replacement? If yes it would be great for others to know that with care and patience anyone can do this. Glad to hear your keyboard feels good.
@@paphitisn thanks man.
Not my first, but definitely my most successful...
@@tybowesformerlygoat-x7760 great to hear
Good video, I've done some melting back other plastic parts, even 3d printer abs filament. Small tip: use an allen key to press down the melted pins, that way you dont have to do it with your fingers.
Nice tip. Thanks for your comment
Absolutely legend! Thanks for the zip tie tip, wouldn’t have even thought of using this!
Zip ties are great. Glad you found this useful. If you do a repair, make sure to let us know how it went.
Just want to say that I followed this method for the first time changing a MSI laptop keyboard and It worked out perfectly. Thank you!
thanks for providing guide for this tricky part. I have been wary of replacing the keyboard in my MSI GP62MVR laptop and your video provide much valuable information and advice 👍
Just finished replacing a keyboard on one of these, took me many hours and a burnt finger :) Instead of grinding the plastic rivets, I chipped away at their heads with an exacto knife and, most importantly, saved the plastic bits! I tried to slowly cut into them instead of ripping them off because they would then break at a lower height. I then marked the places where I cut a rivet with a sharpie so I don't miss any when putting things back.
When time came to fix the new keyboard in place, I placed bits of the cut plastic on top of the rivet and melted them together with the tops of the rivets with the soldering iron. I tried other plastics I had around but I found that not all plastics will "fuse" together with the one that the laptop is made from, that's why I kept the cut rivet bits. Some plastics I tried, with varying degrees of sucess: zip ties, wall plugs, clear packaging plastic.
Using the same plastic for the weld is a guarantee that it will bond. You are right that some plastics do not weld together so testing is always good. I have had great success with zip ties so i use them quite a bit. How did your repair go? Is the keyboard working and does it have a good feel?
@@paphitisn It's nice to see you're still actively responding to comments! I have a Lenovo Legion Y740 17" and just ordered a replacement keyboard. From what I've seen, a repair shop will charge $300-$400+ for this, so I need to try it out myself. If it doesn't work I'll just have to return the keyboard and buy an entire palm rest for $150. Have you done this again since posting the video? How did the installation hold up?
@@joeytocz.136 i try to respond to all comments so thanks for the acknowledgement. I have repaired another 2 keyboards since this video and they are holding up great. The one in the video is holding up awesome also. It is a gamer's device so the keyboard takes a pounding on a daily bases so the fix is holding great. The other 2 are used on a business level and they too are still working great. If you get a tight sandwich of the keyboard and the backplate it is very hard for this fix to fail. It is when the repair is not tight and there is play that the keyboard will eventually break the rivets and end up with a mushy keyboard feeling.
@@joeytocz.136 Funny, we both had the same laptop and did the same repair. Typing on it now with an unriveted keyboard and it's obnoxious. Debating the above riveting method, wondering if a thinner plastic for melting might be easier other than zipties, but can't think of any.
Swapped out with a fresh battery as well, and now I don't need to keep it plugged in. The old one was bulging like hell.
A thought i had in mind, those filaments used for 3d printing? One could get different types of plastics with those, my idea is having the same type of plastic on the palm rest and the 3d printer filament.@@tristanwilson3690
Great detailed video. I'm an IT guy and this is the best method I've seen! Thanks for sharing the knowledge!
I am glad you found this usefull. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for your detailed explanation and this very precise tutorial. Subscribed.
I am glad you found it usefull. Yhanks for the comment and for the subscribe
Good video, just the confidence boost i needed to replace the keyboard in a thinpad E14 that had these, i ended up using some 3D printing PLA that bonded really well with the rivets
I am glad i helped boost your confidence to do the repair. PLA is a great idea, good job. Ties are a bit more accessible for those of us that do not have a 3D printer. Good tip for those that do. Thanks for your comment.
Thank you for this video. I have a Lenovo laptop that I bought in 2018. The laptop is awesome. The only thing I have had to replace on it was its WIFI card, which was $12. Other than that, its been a very good laptop, and starts up just as quick today as the day I bought it.
Well, the thing about this laptop is I spilled soda on the keyboard literally the week I bought it. Stupid me right! I tried cleaning the keys off, which did get rid of the sticky keys, but in the process, my space bar key broke in half, and a couple other keys wouldn't go back in place. Back in 2018, there were zero videos on how to replace the keyboard, and zero keyboard replacements to buy. So what I did is buy a keyboard cover, and just use it with that on top.
Fast forward to 2023, and I finally decided to buy a replacement keyboard. It was $30. Cheap. I watched a few YT videos on how to replace it, and it looked easy enough. So today I went to replace my keyboard. Took it all apart, and according to the YT videos I watched, the plate covering the keyboard was screwed in. Mine wasn't. It had the crappy plastic welded rivets! I wasn't happy to say the least. I don't have a soldering gun, and also was perplexed at how I would be able to remove the rivets and weld new ones back on, while making sure nothing was damaged. So I put everything back together. Lame.
Glad you made this video because it gives me confidence that I would do this job without sending it to a professional who would charge me $150-200.
Love the story 😂.
I really hope this video gives you the confidence to repair your keyboard. Ease make sure to let us know how it went if you do proceed with the repair.
Remember to make sure you have plenty of time planned for this repair as you do not want to rush it. You have already taken it appart one so do that again and reassembling should be easy but still take your time to map where everything came from and the order you removed each part. Remember to circle every rivert you remove, this is really important because you can easily lose track of those.
And finally make sure to use the black zip ties as they take really well. The white ones may not take to the plastic of the keyboard.
Good luck with your repair.
Great video my friend. I am working on my HP X360 and was using razor blade then going to use weight to hold down while JB quick got hard. But now i got the dremel out with my small plastic cutting wheels and pack of zip ties i had in garage. 💯👌.. Best quick advise I seen on this. Your the man. Thanks...
Really glad you found this useful.let us know how your fix goes.
Thanks for the detailed information 🎉
I've done this repair before using this method and it definitely does work. Just used a cheap 10$ soldering iron from home depot. Also used hakko flush cut pliers to remove the original rivets. Great video!
Thanks for your comment. Can the pliers cut the rivet heads flush? Never tried as i thought they would be forced at an angle because of your fingers touching the back plate. Interesting, wil give it a go next time to see.
This tutorial is really helpful and I got my job done now it's working fine
Thank you so much ❤
I am glad this helped you. Thanks for your comment
Really nice tutorial! I'm going to try it myself soon 🙂
Glad you liked it. Let us know how it goes if you try a keyboard replacement.
Been doing these for a while. Just did one with UV glue, seems to work well. Feels solid.
Great idea to use zip ties as the new melt product... I have a couple keys that have gone bad on my MSI keyboard, and after watching this, I think I'll just stick with the external USB that I bought... I do know how to work on my machine quite well, but +/- 100 plastic cut-offs and melt-backs would really test my patience a bit much... Thanx for the in-depth video...
Definately not a task for the impatiemt, especially if it is your first time. A yask for a rainy, boring day :) do let us know if you get around to repairing. Have you checked and your keyboard is riveted? It may be an easy fix with screws.
i use an Exacto chisel with a super sharp strait blade to lance the heads off the rivets and a soldering iron with ABS 3d printer filament to weld it back together. It took me approximately 3 hours to fix a Acer predator laptop by replacing the keyboard. I was not expecting this kind of repair when i took the job
Sounds like you did an awesome job. It really is about what you have available to you. For me i don't have 3D filament so zip tie was my option. It is a tedious repair so well done.
I'm about to replace my keyboard on my Acer Predator too! And yes, as soon as I learned about this whole plastic weld thing, my mind went straight to 3D printer filament. Someone else on the Acer forum used the plastic blades for weed-whackers.
I'm so glad I found this video because the other two had the guys NOT keeping track of screws and being so rough with that backing plate and not using a "flux" for the soldering part.
Oh, and they also didn't bother cleaning the fans, which I've been wanting to do ever since my laptop got louder with age.
@Brooklyn_Ann u am glad you foundbthis useful. Make sure to take your time, it is not a job that can be rushed if you want good long lasting results. Let us know how it goes.
@@paphitisn Will do. I'm going to be as slow and careful as possible. I paid 2K for this laptop in 2020, financing it for almost two years. I use it 12 hours a day on average, writing novels, marketing, formatting, and doing graphics. It's my baby. I did find a whole top chassis I can buy if this repair goes horribly wrong, but hoping it will work. My boyfriend has nylon filament, so we're going to try that for the soldering.
Awesome tip, thx for share
Great ideas, and helped me get my keyboard out of my laptop. The dremel tool grinding disc was OK, but I used a slim bullet-shaped grinding head to get into some trickier spots and that worked even better.
Reinstall with the iron and ziptie technique was highly error prone. I often could not get a fuse between the leftover stem and the new material. More often than not it would create a blob that would just plink off at first touch. I did the best that i could, but suspect I'm going to start hearing rattling in there eventually.
I'm wondering if some sort of plastic-compatible epoxy pen, or a UV curing material like the Bondic pen, would have been a more consistent solution.
Thanks for your comment. Using multiple tools to get to the tricky places is a good idea. Which tool is a matter of preference as long as you do not remove too much of the stem. Getting the weld with the ziptie can be tricky so a bit of practice is always good. As long as you got molten plastic an it overlaps the metal backplate you are good. I don't think you will get rattling or a spongy keyboard. There are no strong forces at play, the welds just need to keep that sandwich together. Th problem with hot glue is that it does not take well on smooth surfaces and the heat from the laptop will aid in weakening the bond over time. As for using epoxy pen or UV curing. I have tried using epoxy in the past on a test keyboard and i was not happy with the result. With the slightest bend of the keyboard the epoxy released from the surface of the stem. UV curing i have not tried so i can not comment on that. I am not sure where i would find it in Cyprus to be honest.
Amazing tutorial. So glad I found you before doing this job
Glad it was useful. let us know how your repair goes.
@@paphitisn Still not sure if I replace the entire board, my Acer keyboard works great, I have one key, R/shift key. It looks good underneath the plastic key. Software, drivers, all OK. I use that key all the time, I type with two hands. Do you have any ideas before I replace the entire board? Thank you!
@@nld-bl5ct i would delete the keyboard drivers and restart windows so that the basic drivers are installed if it works, great. If nkt then the chances are it is a faulty keyboard.
@@paphitisn thank you, Nicos, I have already done so, several times. Thank you so much
Sir, thank you so much for this tutorial. I have an Acer predator which has these same plastic rivets. My left shift key stopped working so as a gamer the laptop became very problematic. Its a good thing i found out that these rivets need to be fabricated and need to be in there in order for the keyboard to work properly, or I would of not done this right. I do wish that plastic rivets or some sort of retrofit screw set was available but the zip tie method worked out great. I was able to find new replacement keyboards on amazon and ebay and used your video to install., thanks!
that is great to hear. Well done and thanks for your comment
I'll stick to my melting method, because I've really found a sweet spot where my stems stay good, but I like your circling/marking idea.
Whatever works for you stick with it. Melting is a learnt skill that takes practice, so once you have developed that you dont want to change it. The circling idea will definately help you keep track of those posts. Glad you found something usefull from thebtutorial.
I tried your method on my Asus VivoBook. I experimented with PLA and ABS filaments and some mystery plastics and they did not bind with my case's plastic, but your recommended black "NYLON" tie wraps worked really well! Thanks again :)
That is great. Your info will help others. The black ties are great. Glad the tutorial helped you and thanks for your comment.
@@paphitisn Yup, I think the negative comments are from people not using genuine nylon, and not getting the soldering iron wetted with molten nylon to make contact with the case plastic and mix the two plastics together. Just melting the nylon on top of the case plastic is not enough.
@philipdifrancesca absolutely, getting enough molten plastic on the tip of your soldering iron so that you can mix it with the molten rivet plastic is the key to generating a one piece rivet head. Otherwise if you are just melting plastic on top of that stem it will simply snap off. Its like mixing 2 different colour pieces of plasticine. You need to mix so the colours are not distinguishable. If you put one on top of the other you can still separate them.
Thanks for posting this, I have an Asus laptop that needs a new keyboard and have been trying to figure out how to do it myself as my local repair shops won't touch it. The black ziptie idea is brilliant! There are a few other folks out there who have tackled this problem by 'shaving' the melted part off the post with a blade/scraper. Have you tried shaving vs grinding, as It seems much quicker?
Yes i have but i find it a bit dangerous as it is easy for the blade to slip and cause damage. I prefer a grind tool as no preasure is applied and you can easily control what you take off. If you are going to use a blade to scrape off ecess be careful not to slip. Remember it is important to make sure you do not bent teh back plate as this will result in a spongy keyboard. With the grind tool you can make sure the rivet is flush. With a scraper it may be that you do not get a flush finish on on the riverts and could cause the backplate to bend when you remove it. Good luck with this and make sure to let know how you get on.
Great Video.
I repair laptops and it frustrates the hell out of me that manufacturers produce items in this way unlike years ago when keyboards were screwed in. Throw away society unfortunatley. Having seen your video I think I will give this a go. I have been trying to come up with a way of replacing the welds, I did wonder if some sort of plastic washers could be pressed over the remaining rivot and the heated would work. I have just been looking at plastic welding kits on Amazon. They look like with a little practice they could do the job.
Thanks for the video.
Glad you found it useful. Its great to get feedback from others that also repair devices. If you test a plastic welding kit let us know how it goes.
Recently I had a customer's Acer notebook with a faulty keyboard. Acer could no longer supply the top cover with a UK keyboard and I was unable to locate one anywhere as it turned out to be an unusual model.
I was however able to buy an original keyboard directly fron China.
I use the same method as above and taking your time it does work.
The labour charges were high (when compared to replacing a clipped in keyboard) but ifar cheaper than replacing an entire high-end laptop.
Thanks for the feedback. I am sure it will help others
This is really good information. I'm now confident that I can just replace the keyboard instead of the entire keyboard module assembly. Thank you very much for sharing sir! Cheers!
I am glad you found ot useful. Make sure to come back and let us know how the replacement went once you have finished. Quick suggestion, practice melting the zip tie in a scrap piece of plastic first so you dont have that learning curve when working on your device.
@@paphitisn Definitely! My kids have plenty of cheap defunct toys that I can practice on. Thanks again for the tip.
Thanks. Well explained👍. What temperature of the soldering tip will be optimal for melting ziptie plastic?
I used a gas soldering iron but most times i use a 30W soldering iron. If you have a variable temperature soldering iron then i suggest to do a bit of testing by melting some zip ties on some scrap plastic. You want to be able to easily get a molten blob of plastic without it burning the zip tie. You know when it is too hot when the molten blob starts bubbling.
Meltine a zip-tie onto it is so much better than using epoxy! I should try that.
A very good video.
HP are a brand I avoid but had to repair one recently with a duff keyboard.
Glad this helped you. Thanks for your comment
@@paphitisn Thank you for taking the time to make this video.
I use hot air gun, that way when i lift the metal plate - plastic rivets thin out and are easy to put on the metal back on. But marking is a great idea, as i sometimes skip one or two..
Have not tried using hot. My fear was that you would not have to peel off the back plate in parts as you would not be able to remove the back plate in one due to the rivets cooling down. Possibly running the risk of either bending the back plate or overheating the face plate of the keyboard. If it worked for you that is great. If you can reuse the entirety of the rivets to refasten the new keyboard then that is perfect.
Thank you so much. I have never thought of using an external plastic to weld the metal backplate to the chassis rivets. This kind of design needs to go, it's terrible for repair.
Glad you liked it. Totally agree with the cheap design. Needs to go.
Good video!
TY
EXCELLENT!
Thanks for the clear info, worked really nicely and my laptop is revived. The only thing i'm kind of weirded out is, when the laptop works through the vent opening comes a smell the same as when the plastic zip ties were being melted. Not strong, but if you're close to the vent it's noticeable. It's not overheating, actually cooler than before probably due to the fact it's cleaner. Did you have this issue and how long it took to "clear out"?
I am glad you managed to repair your laptop. Good Job. As for the smell this will not be from the melted zip ties. You can test this by melting a zip tie, letting it cool for a while an it will not smell. If the smell continues over time i would suspect that your fan maybe on its way out. If the device is not over heating and you are not getting random crashing of the OS then you are pretty much ok but keep an eye on the device temp and the fan.
Hi! Thank you for your tutorial. My previous attempts at melting had failed. The plastic extensions are very very thin. I tried to melt them with their own pieces, but after a month they all fell off. Now the plastic extensions are at the same level as the metal plate. Should I use your method in this case, will it work? Or should I try epoxy? What do you suggest Thanks!
Personally i would weld with the zip ties. Let us know how it goes.
one bit of advice while doing this is get a fan nearby blowing the smoke away, or even pulling through some sort of air filter next to the fan so you're not breathing in acrid plastic fumes. Your lungs will thank you!
I tried doing these several times, but by the time you add all the time required, it becomes cheaper to just replace the palmrest. This is only worthwhile if your labour charge is cheap
I agree. If you are charging for this then it most likely will not be worth it for the owner. It is only worthwile if you are repairing your own device or helping someone.
Where are you buying keyboards? Cant find hp 15ba anywhere. I would like to buy whole keyboard with palm rest, if its easier to replace
Can i use 3d pens with plastic filament?
No. There is no way the 3D filament will be able to fuse with rivet stalk.
I need to replace the face plate of my keyboard. The new one just arrived. Can I use a soldering iron to melt the plastic rivets that holds the metal face plate and the keyboard together?
I would not recomend it. The soldering iron will melt the plastic riverts and make it bubble over, requiring you to melt more of the rivet stem. If you can not grind them then i would suddest you cut the rivet lips with a blade. Be careful not to slip with the blade and damage something.
@@paphitisn I mean after I switch the old face plate with the new one which has the factory plastic rivets that are supposed to be melted to form the crown. Can I melt them with a soldering iron?
@@vraja8756absolutely. Dont just stick the pointy end of the iron down the middle of the rivet. Better to use the iron s at an angle so you do not weaken the rivet stem. Make sure to apply some pressure on the back plate when you are melting the rivert so that you get a firm sandwich of the layers. Release pressure once the rivert has cooled. Good luck. Let us know how it goes.
@@paphitisn I finally fixed my laptop after a few months of it being broken. For some reason the nvme SSDs keep blowing probably due to a short circuit. Someone suggested to remove the HHD and switch it with a sata SSD and not use an NVME at all and I did that. Anyways, I managed to switch the old broken palm rest with a new one. I used a soldering iron to melt the plastic rivets like you said and everything went great. I just had to be careful when the iron heated up too much the plastic was melting too quickly and kept sticking to my soldering iron so I had to unplug it every time. For my first ever laptop fix it was not so bad, even though the speakers don't work anymore, at least the laptop is functioning now when I need it the most.
@@vraja8756 WOW, your first ever laptop fix was replacing a riveted keyboard. That is impressive. Good idea to replace the HDD with an SSD. Kudos to the person that suggested that to you. Speakers not working? where they working before? if yes i would check the speaker connections. If you cant get them to work then a set of USB speakers will probably sound better anyway. WELL DONE. Good job. You should be proud of yourself.
I'm a little worried about the Dremel grinding stone making contact with the metal and making metal "dust."
You are not working anywhere near the circutry so dont worry. Also you are focusing on the pkastic rivet not the metal so you will not be generating any dust. The grindstone barely touches the metal. Give it a wipe down before welding the new keyboard in.
Can we use specialised plastic glue instead of melting ?
It is entirely up to you. I have never managed a perfect long lasting repair with glue. The reason why is explained in the video.
@@paphitisn I have never done one before, but have some failure in joining PP plastic using glue. Later I found that in order to join PP plastic successfully, we need glue specially made for joining PP plastic, slightly more expensive but work very well.
(When I attempt to replace the keyboard next week, I will try two different technique. 1. Cut the rivet head with a suitable hole punch to allow for the rivet length remain long. 2. create a donut shape rivet head and glue to the old rivet with plastic glue. (if plastic glue does not work, I shall heat weld plastic tie like what you recommend but I should have a longer rivet remained to work with). Thanks for you video, it does provide a good learning for someone like me who has never done this job before. Cheers
@@samwong1349 i am glad you found the video useful. As i said, i have not had much luck with glue on a long term basis. Let us know how your repair goes
using razor or utility knife to remove the rivet head is the quickest way, at least from my experience, or I'm just too broke to buy power tool
Whatever works for you and is in uour toolbox 😀
Personally i found using a blade more tricky and did not want to risk a slip of the blade which is why i preferred a grinding wheel.
Should have used extremely sharp razer blade. If you are practiced this is simple.
i am practiced and have used razor blades in the past. Using the Dremel with a grind wheel is safer and easier in my opinion. No force is applied and less chance of a slip which could cause damage. You should use whatever you are most comfortable with, there is no right and wrong when you are taking apart something that is not designed to be taken apart.
Why not just use epoxy to bond the rivets?
the reason is explained in the video. The epoxy sticks to the surface of the remaining rivet so the bond is not that strong and will give over time resulting in a mushy keyboard. Especially keyboards that are extensively used.
@@paphitisn thanks, must have miss it
should've found this before disasambely ;-;
Better late than never. Hope you were able to reassemble the device.
use a razor blade in a window scraper works very well.
Just be careful to keep control of the blade so it does not slip and you cut smoothing you should not. Did you complete your repair? how did it go?
Kiddos to anyone attempting this. I'm just gonna throw my laptop away and buy me a new one. God bless.
A job like this can be a bit overwhelming. However, if you are planning to buy a new one why not give it a go, especially if you are planning to throw out the old one. The best way to learn is to practice with zero risk and as you have decided to throw it out anyway, you have zero risk, apart for the 30 odd dollars you are going to spent on the replacement keyboard.
I have done mine finally with the T7000 glue but it is still risky because if you fail, you won't be able to take it apart easily anymore...
Well done. Let's hope it holds and stands the test of time and use. Make sure to give it a few days to cure properly. I think T7000 needs 48 hours. Keep us updated
@@paphitisn actually i noticed that 4 upper keys from the numpad feel mushy so i might have missed some spots
Either that or the weld on the rivets from the T7000 has released. Should mark all the rivets before removing the heads. if you missed them then you can easily disassemble and re-glue. If they have released, it is most likely due to drying time. the problem with glues or epoxy is the drying time. You need to be applying constant pressure on the back plate until the bond is solid otherwise the back plate will not tightly sandwich the keyboard. This is why i prefer plastic welding. it is easy to keep pressure on the back plate until the plastic cools and solidifies.
just use a 2k silicone glue buddy
Have tried different glues. The surface area is too small on the remaining rivet stubs so after a while some release, especially in the middle of the keyboard and the keyboard feels mushy.
@@paphitisn can't you glue the old rivets back on the stumps with super glue ?
@@pssa3215 No, because you need to break or grind of the heads of the rivets to remove the old keyboard. This is explained in the video.
@@paphitisn you can keep them intact by using a sharp knife to cut them off cleanly without damage. Others have used knives before too.
@@pssa3215 Good luck with that. About 100 rivets, you are going to keep track of the heads you cut of and supper glue them back. Even if you could, they will break of eventually. Please come back and let us know how it went if you try this. As i explained, many have tried different methods. Most failed and others, the fix was temporary as the bonding agent released over time and use of the keyboard.