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Big Motor / Small lathe - CNC'ing the 7x12 Mini Lathe - Episode 32 || RotarySMP
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- Опубликовано: 6 авг 2024
- On step backward to move forward. Fixing screw up I made in the drive train of the SIEG 7x12 Mini-lathe CNC conversion. Using the Boley 4LV lathe, and the Maho MH400E CNC Mill to make parts to fit a new motor.
Ah, modifications... you know where it starts but you never know where it ends.
You have that right! Thanks for watching.
I must say that I love the sound of the machines instead of the music. Maybe few agree with me on this.
I think it gets boring with just machines whining, but this weeks nusic was also pretty boring. Thanks for watching
Machine noise >>> music of any description.
@@RotarySMP I think the music was just fine.
@@thebigdustin Thanks for the feedback.
@@aarondcmedia9585 I need to record the Angle grinder Concerto in G.
This has come so far since the scraping and I've enjoyed the whole thing! Thanks for sharing this project!
Thanks for watching.
I'm amazed at the amount of swarf behind the slotting head when it was bolted up........makes me wonder If it's just me or am I being too fussy with machine cleanliness............ but I suppose I came from a different school of learning way back when.
Aluminium and coolant gets everywhere, and sticks quite well.
@@RotarySMPOf course it will....... ....and you didn't bother to clean the back of the slotting head before you mounted it?
I really appreciate that you show where it goes wrong. too many videos make DIY look like a perfect linear path from A to B.
Nothing I do is ever a direct path from A to B :) Thanks forthe feedback-
Treat success and failure with equal contempt 😁!
Another great video.
Good call. Thanks.
Nice bit of improvisation. Also like the music. You've introduced me to some new bands. Thanks. Paul
Thanks for the feedback.
I really liked this episode! Not sure why but it was really nice to watch.
Glad you liked it. I never knkow which ones will just clck with people and which sort of fall flat.
Keep coming back to this series and it's so cool what you achieved with that cheap little lathe
Thanks. It worked really nicely on this job. This is the sort of sized work which the 7X lathe do well on.
Thanks for another video in the saga. Also love Binky. Keep safe and stay well.
Thanks Colin. There is a fair bit of pent up anticipation for Project Blinky's continuation.
Just to say I'm enjoying my weekly RotarySMP video and so is my wife :D
I was driving and my wife read Nico's mail and we were both cracking up. He has a unique way of expressing himself.
We’ve all made that mistake with the offset, lesson learned and problem didn’t cause too much to head scratching. Great video, thanks.
I got lucky that it was easy to fit.Thanks for watching.
Nice job and always fun to watch, thanks from Panama.
Thanks for the Panamanian feedback.
Wow awesome job. Really enjoyed that. Its looking amazing
Thanks Julian.
I feel your pain, because I often make that mistake when I make a wrong offset calculation.
By the way, love your videos even after a year of re-watch
Thanks for your kind feedback.
I hope you never end this series!
If I keep screwing up, that may happen. ;)
I have never seen a reciprocating head like you put on the MAHO - pretty cool
They are called a slotting head. Pretty handy tool. Thanks for watching.
32 ep, into this project it it finally dawned on me that i should subscribe
Thanks for your tenacity and welcome.
love your channel, thank you.
Thanks for the positive feedback. It gives the motivation to keep trying to improve the videos.
@@RotarySMP ive been a welder and metal worker for 14 years, and in the last few years ive set up my own shop at home, and just got my first Lathe so im sucking upp all the info the interwebs has available. just keep the projekts rolling in and pretty soon youre gonna have a few zeros behind that sub count.
Nice Maho!
Thanks. It is. I did an overview video on my LinuxCNC conversion a couple of weeks ago.
ruclips.net/video/LXwbRhgq1og/видео.html&
Oh boy, look at that! A new video from Mark!
*pause cnc program sit down and watch youtube
:) Hope you are not disappointed.
How could i!?
This video has all, up's, down's a slotting head on the MAHO.
Nice work and video as always! ;)
@@surmetall5596 Thanks. Now, after the MotoGP... back to work :)
Klasse Video Gruss aus der Schweiz ;-)
Servus.
I have the same motor on my lathe and it works great.
That is good. The 2Pole motor was also fine, back when I used to run a belt directly to the spindle.
Some kick ass music this episode!
Thanks for the feedback.
thank you for showing your screw up. It helps.
I am to please (and screw up a lot.)
when they started project binky my daughter had not been born yet ... she is 6 now and its still not finished lol
I hear you. There have been a couple of snippets from others showing they displayed it at some car meet in August, but it sounds like things didn't go well, and they had to pull it all apart again. At this rate, you daughter with have her drivers license before blinky.
Oops I was thinking -3 and +3 surely that’s not right... aah it wasn’t. I would have probably done the same thing lol. Good fix though and the new motor looks tops. Thanks for the video.
I probably would have done the central one and then widened accordingly and found another way to screw up.
See, I didn't even have a nagging doubt. Full speed ahead on the HMS Ignorance. Was pretty funny in edit to see that. Lucky the fix worked. Would have sucked to have had to rotate that pulley to a fresh section and leave the offset slot in for all to see.
Cool channel!
Thanks for the encouragement.
Try Loctite 641 (or was it 640?) "retaining compound" for loose pulleys & misfit keys. It's like machinist's superglue 😂
A heat gun can loosen it back when you need to disassemble it again. I used to fix stuff for a living, can't remember the number of times we had machinery with lost or broken keys, needed to be turned around in hours if not in minutes!!
This stuff basically allowed me to run hundreds of motors without the need for a new pulley or re-bore/re-sleeve. Basically on the spot jobs. I've run pulleys on upto 3hp motors without a key!
It doesn't even require the mating surfaces to be clean :)
Btw. I might sound like a loctite rep, I'm not 😂😂
I just love a couple of their products so long as they save me time (and therefore money).
Thanks, good advice, I'll look into that, but first I'll use it for a while to see whether I prefer the 35mm or the 45mm pulley.
niko had a interesting character
He does.
very good
Thanks.
Friendly tip: If you cut v shaped grooves in a part like your pulley using the compound, set to match the angle - much as you would when cutting a similar shaped thread - you will experience less chatter than when plunging the tool straight in using the cross slide.
Thanks for the tip. I would have, but the geometry of the Boley's top slide prevents it from being used at the 70° angle this would require. The handle hits (either poor design, or maybe it is not the original handle) Turned out, that chatter was me not using sufficient feed. Only I increased the feedrate, all the other grooves cut chatter free.
good save on the keyway math error, haha
Got lucky when I eyeballed turning it to the middle.
Your offsets were fine, you just needed to use a 0mm wide cutter.
I can make one. I just start with a 10mm and drive it into the vise. After that it cuts 0mm.
Well that video was helpful. I have to fit an new motor and vfd to my Colchester Chipmaster before I use it. And that will need adaptor plates etc. I guess that getting the mill running first will be the first stage as for that I just need a 1 phase 230v to 3 phase 400v inverter. Shame those inverters are so expensive!
You dont need to step up to 400V. A standard 3 Ph induction motor like that can be wired either for 400V (Star) or 230V (delta), just by swtiching the jumper plates in the junction box. Just get a bog standard motor like this and a 230V Invertor. Any invertor can be run on single phase, you just need to derate them.
@@RotarySMP oooh interesting and thanks for the reply, however I think the mill in this case has a lot of ancillary components. It's a Schaublin 13. The guy I bought it of had converted his lathe by using a transformer to lift the valtage but he was running the mill on a 7.5kw inverter.
My chipmaster lathe needs a new 5hp/3p motor and an inverter as at the moment it has nothing (although I have a suitable 5.5hp motor but it's a 440v 3p, but I don't think that it can be used easily). It is totally stripped down at the moment I've replaced everything that needed replacing and repainted it completely after blasting everything that needed it. The variator unfortunately was scrapped as it was very much a washing machine with loose bearings in it.
@@house89147 Everything Achaublin ever made is fantastically designed and built. I guess you have seen This old Tony's Schaublin posts from a few years ago.
I use the same motor on my mini lathe, it works great, you might be able to take 0.5 depth of cut on steel if you chose right speed and feed.
Great choise
That is good to hear. Did you keep the original internal back gear?
@@RotarySMP I kept oryginal internal headstock gear(the metal ones) and i use htd 5m gears to drive the spinele, 9mm wide belt is great when you crash the lathe, it just strips few teeth. I recommend you to make belt reduction 1:2 from motor to headstock input shaft. Its great for me. Perfect for parting and still gives great speed range.
Btw. Take a look on my channel, theres some video's showing performance of mini lathe at my setup.
If you want to see detailed photos check this Polish forum: www.cnc.info.pl/ulepszenia-mini-lathe-t98325.html#p694679
@@RotarySMP Congratulations on the conversion, but always a lack of power with the original engines. That's why I put the 1.1kW motor, direct drive belt to the spindle, max 1400 rpm, although I plan a small conversion to a toothed belt, because the flat belt needs to be tightened and the bearings fall quickly.
@@scorpioo7350 I guess there is a reason why an industrial CNC lathe uses a 30KW motor on the spindle to replace the gearbox.
@@RotarySMP In the past, smaller motors with gears were used, so it was possible to choose the right speed and torque on the spindle with the gear. Now the drive in CNC machines is direct, which is why such powerful motors are used. Paradoxically, with small diameters, the need for high revolutions on the spindle and smaller Nm, and with larger diameters - smaller revolutions and high torques. Therefore, high torque motors multiplied by the spindle speed are used, which gives such powerful motors
du kannst den motor im dreieck anschliessen und die spannung und den strom entsprechend der dreieckschaltung eingeben. den frequenzumrichter aber weiterhin an 400V anschliessen. so regelt der FU den motor so dass der strom nicht überschritten wird. bei höherer drehzahl verträgt er auch eine höhere spannung. so hast du bei 87Hz die 1.7fache leistung ohne den motor zu überlasten! bis 100Hz bleibt dann die leistung konstant. dadurch holst du viel mehr aus dem motor raus. der freuquenzumrichter muss aber überdimensioniert werden. er muss den strom von der dreieckschaltung können und 400V.
Ich habe ein 230V FU, damit dieser Maschine kein Drehstrom braucht. Ich habe Drehstrom, wird aber dieser Mini Lathe verkaufen, es gibt sicher mehr model bastler ohne Starkstrom. Ich habe der Motor in Dreieck verkabelt.
why is it even when you have access to cnc equipment you still inevitably go back to manual tools ( me included ) .
Great video as always.
I really like manual lathes. There is something very natural about the controls. Thanks.
@@RotarySMP Not so natural when you have more than 20 parts to make. LOL But I know what you mean.
A few comments. If you look at VFD specific motors you will notice the cooling fan is often driven by it's own motor. This is to provide adequate cooling for the main motor when running at low RPM and high torque. So I recommend at a minimum you monitor motor temp when set to low RPM for long periods but I suspect the real limitation will be rigidity of the lathe so perhaps the point is moot . Second it is good practice to fully rough out a turned part before finishing up. This minimises the possibility of the work piece moving in the chuck and producing eccentric parts. Lastly having the compound slide permanently set over at some angle is academic at best on a small lathe. 1) having it offset deprives you of an accurate scale in the Z axis and removes the possibility of the compound moving and messing up a diameter. 2) unless you are producing coarse threads the direct infeed method will work perfectly for pitches under 3mm.
I am figuring that such a low power motor takes a a while to heat up, and it is unlikely to run for long periods at low rpm. Guess we'll see.
I leave the Boley compound at 30°, as it is tends to interfere with the tailstock when set to 0 degrees. It gives the impression that it was designed for rigidity more than usablity on the Boley, as it is also limited in the angles it can do. When I need an accurate Z depth, it is quick to rezero it.
First time in a youtube video that i actually wanted to know what music was in it! at 6:00
It is ruclips.net/video/bzXg3Gpqu3c/видео.html
thanks for video. nice content (music no so ...) anyway, best regards
Yeah, I use the free music from YT, and should have put more effort into choosing it. Thanks for watching.
It seems like you and Tony own the same sweater.
There is only one sweater. We share it :)
22:34 - I love to see this, because those things are happening to me all the time. And I'm not even machinist :D
The fascination of watching crashes. That is why motorsports are popular :)
@@RotarySMP Yeah, I guess you're right :D But this is different kind of "crash" which I really really enjoy more, because it's so simple to do and happens really all the time :)
@@DreitTheDarkDragon :)
You can upgrade this lathe to 30.5mm spindle bore. There is a 40ID by 62OD tapered roller bearing.
That might be polishing a turd :)
Just subscribed very interesting videos, but you don't need the music, because the content of video is so good, from UK Coventry 🇬🇧👍.
There is a pretty serious split between the music lovers and haters. I'll tone it down a little.
@@RotarySMP appreciated thanks.
the correct way would be to drop them in some hand gel /sanitizer / disinfection the moment that you stop sanding them since it cant create aluminumoxide in a alcohol solution ( thats also why you spray aluminium when takeing and after a last pass on the lathe so its super shint and stay shiny
Great tip, thanks.
@@RotarySMP your welcome m8
@@RotarySMP your welcome
"Mesure 3 Times and cut once.... " That's what my dad always says!! Ahahah Great job anyway
Wise Dad. Mine made do with measure twice.
Murphy's law of decreasing accuracy: Measure with micrometer, mark with chalk, cut with axe. :)
@@petergamache5368 Like
You mean it’s not measure once cut twice?
The surf rock should make it into the regular rotation.
Noted, thanks.
thinks and hopes and wishes are useless :D the bolts just seem tight because it was painted after the bolts were put in. It works like locktite :X
:) So I should assemble then paint as well.
Tip: If you're getting chatter cutting vee grooves, feed in with the compound at 1/2 the included angle, then clean up each side. Takes a little more math though.
I like your channel name :)
The geometry of the Boley top slide does not allow you to feed in at 70° to the bed, as the handle hits the cross slide. This is quite limiting, and one of the reasons why I will replace the Boley. Now if I have planned better and cut the pulleys on the Mini lathe before pulling the motor??
Actually the chatter was just feeding too slowly. Once I loaded it up a little more and cut faster, it didn't chatter at all.
@@RotarySMP Oh my. That is quite limiting. Perhaps once (if :P) you have the mini lathe up and running you can replace the Boley with a larger toolroom lathe. And thanks. :)
@@TheMetalButcher The Boley is a 750kg tool room lathe. But I have been keeping my eye on Colchester Batam VS, Emco V13, Weiler Matdor, Schaublin 125 etc.
I am undecided, as I really like useing a manual lathe. CNC is far less essential on the Lathe than on the mill. Maybe I sell both Boley and Mini lathe and get a Schaublin 125CNC and retrofit it, with manual jog wheels like Andy Pughs Holbrook.
@@RotarySMP Huh. Well I read through the lathes.co.uk listing. I must say, it's fairly impressively designed, but in typical American fashion, I like our lathe designs better, with less fussing with change gears and the like. I must say that is is an impressively universal machine. Maybe consider doing a video on it sometime? I had a hard time getting size/scale, it seems like a much smaller and lighter lathe in the videos.
@@TheMetalButcher The Boley 4LV has only an 9 inch swing, so it is number smaller than the 10EE etc, but the bed casting is extremely massive, wider than the swing, and being closed rather than open/ribbed, extremely stiff. Also the saddle is also longer than the swing. Mine is on the much more massive cast iron base of the 5LZ, rather than the lighter stands of the ones in Lathes.co.uk.
Unfortunately I didn't get the change gears or banjos with it. Mine has a fine feed lead screw drive. I did make up a stepper drive to use it as s 1 axis CNC / electronic lead screw, but mostly dont fit it.
would it have been easier to simply change the gearing on the old setup?? gear the 6000 back down to 2500 by changing a pulley or 2 ?
There is not enough space for a much larger driven pulley, and the drive pulleys mini diamter is driven by the 14mm shaft + 4mm grooves + 3mm keyway and some remaining wall thickness. But you are right, there are always multiple different solutions.
What stopped you from cutting new pulleys with different ratios for the old motor? (Genuine question, I'm sure you considered it but didn't mention what prevented it.)
There is no space under the cover for a larger driven pully, and the shaft diameter would have only allowed small decrease in diameter of the drive pulley. It would have improved things but not enough in my estimation.
Me again, did I miss the discussion about using Poly Vee drive belt and not timing belts. Is the Poly Vee grip such that it will never slip and leave you with a really strange thread? Sorry, I have been used to the timing belt solution for a really long time now, never figured it would be done any other way. By the way, getting a feel for a lathe without handles can take a little while, it will come though!
Sorry for the late response, I missed this one.
LinuxCNC takes a full quadrature encoder for the spindle feedback. Mine is a 100 pulse (400 in quadrature) encoder driven directly off the spindle, so it doens't matter if there is any slip in the poly Vee belt. Linuxcnc recalculates the necessary Z drive speed to sync with the spindle at 1000 Hz. I am pretty sure it will perfectly track along the correct pitch even down to a fully stalled spindle. There are some video of a guy hand cranking the spindle of a mini lathe with the Z axis threading under LinuxCNC:
How does the Hercus do spindle/ Z snyc for threading?
@@RotarySMP the Hercus does it badly. The spindle speed is measured at the speed call command line. Once the speed is acknowledged as being correct, there is no longer any more thought given to the problem. We are able to set the spindle error, mine is set to +/- 10, this gives accurate threads but takes a while to get the speed correct. If the spindle slows while cutting a thread, too bad, the Z keeps going at the same speed as it would for the “set” spindle speed. Not really aware of it having caused a problem, perhaps because I know it is a problem and just work to make sure it is not a problem. Hence my interest in your belt configuration.
Of course my system is 30 years old!
@@smallcnclathes Ouch. I didn't realise any CNC lathe relied on an open loop for threading. Even TurboCNC and Mach3 sync once per rev to an index. Lucky you know your machines so well.
I actually have a very low resolution resolver, as I got it years ago, when expecting to use the parallel port, which is speed limited. Although LinuxCNC does the snyc calcs at 1000Hz, the Mesa 7i96 can read encoders up to 10MHz, so insanely high resolution is possible.
I'd love to see you track down a third Hercus, do a LinuxCNC / Mesa card conversion using Gmoccapy and Andy Pugh's Lathe macros
forum.linuxcnc.org/41-guis/26550-lathe-macros.
and/or NativeCam
Ok... I need to ask, what sort of metal-cutting bandsaw is that, and where did you get it? 🙂
It is a 1957 Do-All 16"-SPF, I bought used.
Just found your channel, loving it. So putting my detective hat on you're an expat kiwi aero engineer yeah? North Islander even? How close did I get? ;)
You are a talented stalker :) Welcome, and thanks for watching.
@@RotarySMP Haha! very good. Thanks for making such a thing to watch sir.
@@m3chanist Glad you enjoyed it.
Can you tell me where you go that hinged motor mount? I have been looking all over for something like that but no luck
I got it from my back yard. It was one of the first castings I did years ago. Sorry. No supplier available.
you'd better drill the shaft. it may be convenient in future.
It would be.
Mount the motor on the mill or drillpress, shaft facing up, hook up VFD....
@@timogross8191 Watch this space.
👍👍😎👍👍
Thanks for watching.
Enjoyed the video.
However, please, always have a handle in the file if it is used in the lathe.
Good advice. Those are jewellers Files. The tang is a long (skinny) handle.
why didnt you get an ac servo motor and use it in velocity mode?
Back when I first converted this lathe about 15 years ago, those cheap AC servos were not available. So I got the VFD. Since here I only wanted to change the motor, it was cheaper to stick with the induction motor and VFD.
@@RotarySMP okay
Where did you get the motor from? Ali?
I got this one off Amazon. Just the generic 3Ph, 4 Pole, 750W motor.
The music sounds like it would be enjoyed by nihilistic teenagers, which made me wonder how many nihilistic teenagers enjoy lathe videos!
Good call :)
if yer clamping up the parts, id'a thought red permanent loctite would have done perfectly well.
Yep, but I had JB weld here.:)
I would advise against trying to drill and tap the hardened drive shaft. One set screw on the key would be my choice.
Good advice, although it is not hardened. Watch this space...
@@RotarySMP My bad, I assumed something similar to industrial Baldor's I'm familiar. Its still a big motor for the machine.
Can't you just program max allowed frequency output on the VFD instead of changing the motor? All VFDs what I know have an option for limiting the max output frequency.
I could, but the low end torque was also insufficient. A different pulley ratio was also a possibiblity, but theere was insufficient space to use a larger driven, and the minimum drive pulley would not have improved it enough.
how many watts is this big motor?
750W
At least ur mistake was fixable :)
Wish it was the only one .(
a complicated transplant
But, you screwed up *Honestly* ;-) It happens, no? Cheers, Mate!
Thanks for watching.
bu büyük motor kaç Watt gücünde?
750W
I notice my motor vibrating at some frequencies. Any advice ?
Do you mean vibrating like a loose mount? Original 110V DV motor or something else? Not a lot of info you gave.
@@RotarySMP sorry, the motor itself vibrates in isolation. Just a wee bit but once mounted on the lathe bed I can visibly notice it on anything I place on top of the lathe. It doesn't seem to affect the finish that much. Happens in the 30-40hz range. 50hz/250v nominal here down under.
@@HM-Projects These are not exactly high quality motors or PWM controllers. I fried my original motor by overloading it, taking too thick cuts in steel.
The rubber belt drive will largely isolate the motor vibration from the spindle as will the plastic head stock gears. I wouldn#t worry about it.
@@RotarySMP could be the VFD, I'm using a 550w ABB motor which should be reasonably good hopefully.
@@HM-Projects Ahhh, that was a missing bit of information :)
Did you program the VFD with motors parameters?
"ring gauge"......
Why do those look like knurling dies?
Kurling dies only have a single cut, you need two to make the diamond shape. Theses all have different, accurate hole sizes.
Very interesting but may I say you don't need the music.
Thanks for watching. Unfortuneately, there is a broad range of opinions on that.
Off to google Sonic Youth.
I wish I could play Sonic youth music, but use the free music from RUclips. Thanks for watching.
toooooooo Maaaannnyyyy ADS
I've been thinking about paying the RUclips €10 a month to avoid the ads.
Adblock is your friend.
Roughen up the serface than with your epoxy ready to go quick wipe with acetone than set your parts locked in vice or clamps leaveing the recommended time to set up
Thanks.
Wait till your my age...those screw ups happen about every 10 minutes. sigh
I got lucky that the key way could be rescued.
@@RotarySMP A few days ago I ordered a 9/16" 40 specialty tap. When I checked the shipping status I thought "Wasn't that a 9/32" -40 tap that I needed?" Now I have a tap I will never use for a premium price. Just one of the everyday things...
@@HanstheTraffer If money can fix it, it is not really broken. :)
Either way you b wrong on the size lol
Yeah :/
Was anyone else wondering why he did not just change the pulleys to suit the required rpm?
Space available. The driven pulley is already at max size for the space under it's housing. The drive pulley could have been made somewhat smaller, but driven by 14mm dia shaft+3mm rad keyway+4mm dia pulley grooves + some wall thickness, I couldn't have got it down to the range I was looking for.
@@RotarySMP life is seldom that straightforward, what's the torque like at 100hz? Much of a drop off?
In it's current installation, I was too busy crapping myself with the air raid siren of this thing running unlubed straight cut gears at 6000+ RPM to worry about torque.
Torque at high RPM is pretty irrelevant to this machine. The reason I didn't run a belt directly to the spindle again was the lack of torque down low. Back when I had the direct belt drive, I once cut the male thread for an ER32 collet, and it basically failed as the minimum RPM to have enough torque to cut without rubbing, was too fast for the axis to keep up.
Builds CNC lathe.
Works on manual lathe.
You got me. I really really like using the Boly 4LV. It is suchs a nice machine to use, even if it is rather worn out.
@@RotarySMP You and I have different definitions of worn out haha. My Sidney has about 25 thou of bed wear. 50 in the saddle. 15 side to side in the cross-slide. I didn't know it was that bad or I wouldn't have gotten it. Your Boley seems new in comparison!
@@TheMetalButcher With the gibs adjusted to just go tight at the end of the bed, the saddlecan move around a fair bit up by the head stock. I just put a clock on it. rotating the saddle I get 0.15mm of movement at the back of the saddle. Not the end of the world, but still pretty worn.
@@RotarySMP One of the disadvantages of not having vee ways I guess. In my case, the bed wear is negligible. Just results in a relative tool drop making a negligible difference on diameter. You've certainly proven yourself to be capable on the Seig. Will you rebuild the Boley or sell it as is?
@@TheMetalButcher it's not worth selling rebuilt machines. If you rebuild it for yourself you can justify the time as it's a hobby but if you rebuild a machine to high standards only to sell it you need to get some serious money off it or you just wasted time. A machine with soft ways without automatic lubrication and all the high end Über features doesn't sell for super high money.
Well said about Bad Obsession Motorsport. I have unsubscribed their channel. They should close their channel if they cannot keep up.
I think their videos are brilliant. I have posted that Blinky is a point where they are dependant on painters, platers etc, and that Covid got in the way. They are planning to be back with a vengence, and I trust they will be.
@@RotarySMP I really hope so. I don't know what happened with the library lorry they worked on long time ago. I didn't see any update on it.
@@Frank-Thoresen I know they sent Patreons a few updates explaining why they couldn't produce.
The background music is dreadful. I'd rather watch without music. In all of the videos. It's so unpleasant I'm rethinking my decision to subscribe to the channel.
Im sorry you fall into the very small minority of viewers who don’t enjoy my content, but thanks for watching anyway, and especially thanks for your comment as it improves my ranking for others
I like the content, the music makes my ears bleed
@@guy_b Yeah, music is very polarising. I get many comments that it is great and fantastic (which I dont understand as it is generic license free music), and the occasional one that it is terrible and aweful. You cant satisfy all. In some of the earlier videos I had it mixed in much too loud. Now I have it down at about -15db.
Thanks for you feedback.
I think I'm still catching up on the older videos at the moment, so if it's been turned down a bit that will help 😉 cheers