you're too kind, that was a close fight all things considered. And for the record, I was trying to push you off the wall, but a hit you got earlier on my left drive gearbox knocked the motor loose, so it was working intermittently, making it incredibly difficult to drive half the time for the rest of the tournament!
This is a great video, very well edited and presented! I'm glad to see more combat Robotics channels popping up that actually put in the effort to make original content about building and improving robots. Squishy and compliant wheels are a good solution to this problem. TPU wheel hubs are super popular in beetles for the same reason. I would also recommend making the wheel hubs as close to the face of the motor as possible to reduce the bending load on the shaft/output bushing or bearing or whatever it is for silver sparks.
Love the TPU spokes solution and the clips of all the fights! I think TPU is one of the most underrated filaments. And by lowering the diameter of your wheels, you probably will gain some more control and maybe some more torque.
You're totally right! Tpu is near damn indestructible. I sell printed stuff at the markets and I have a tpu one and I say to kids "if you can break it you can have another one"... I still haven't given one away yet 😂
I've been using the same Fingertech 11:1 motors on my bot (aproximately 30mm tall wheels) since 2019 and never had to change them. I've had 17 matches. Here in the Midwest we've gotten a reputation for some major hitters. I've bee slammed into the ceiling, Thrown into walls, and gotten into major pushing matches. I think part of why I survive is the small diameter of the wheels. It will limit the leverage concerning lateral twisting of the axel.
I think you're onto a winning design with cheesecake. Especially when he gets his "secret weapon" for the wedges 😉. That spinner does spin very fast lol
That’s amazing glad it worked,can’t wait to see it throw down at Mechanical mayhem hopefully in January! Now question how would you think that’d work for a beetle now? This could be something useful to use on power surge
You know, it just might work for a beetle, but don't quote me on that; I've never built or even driven a beetle, so I don't know anything. All I know is that I'm going the Hypershock route of simply shock-mounting everything.
You should extend the wheels back again, this will allow you to right faster from being stuck upright but more importantly, it could allow you to absorb more shock from falling on the back. Those compliant wheels were really effective I'd say.
I've thought about it, but have you ever tried to steer a heavy shopping cart using the handle bar at the back? That's what it's like to drive old Cheesecake: tons of under-steering. Now, if I can redistribute some of the weight more toward the rear inside the chassis... maybe this design could make a comeback.
With such large wheels, you might be better off offsetting the motors and running TPU/nylon gearing to absorb the torsional loads from the wheels hitting the ground at high speed
Would it help to angle the edge of your weapon such that it would either be exactly vertical or even such that the top edge is closer to the main body than the bottom edge? As it is now I should thing the natural force on the edge tends to push the weapon up and away from your opponent, especially when they have sloped sides. When you change the angle of the edge of your weapon you could maybe change it such that it tends to dig in, or be neutral if digging in would give too much load too fast on the weapon.
I'm not sure I like the pit for smaller venues. It's too random. Seems it's used more in Europe and Canada due to Robot Wars influence. Maybe only open it 2/3 the way through.
You're probably right. It's just so nice to have big wheels! They keep me up away from people's weapons, and they allow me to drive over debris that might otherwise get me stuck... but you're probably right.
I'm pretty sure you can hit the wall as much as you want. Most arenas have a "kick plate" at the base of the wall where most robots are likely to hit it anyway. Just... you know, don't set out to specifically break the arena.
@@dutchdrifter8740- Oh wait, I'm sorry, you were asking if it's okay for the driver to hit the wall of the arena with their hand. Generally the answer is no, but you do get one "un stick", and you can do it by hitting the wall from the outside if that works.
I think my weapon motor overheated. I did a lot of weapon and motor tests this weekend, and I found that the weapon I used at this tournament was probably too big for the 1800KV weapon motor, which caused the motor to draw a lot of current and overheat.
@@human890209yang - The ESC was okay (I think). The overheated motor recovered. I think it shut down because the copper wires got hot, which increased their electrical resistance, and not enough current got through to spin the motor. I'm not an electrical engineer, so that's my best guess.
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you're too kind, that was a close fight all things considered. And for the record, I was trying to push you off the wall, but a hit you got earlier on my left drive gearbox knocked the motor loose, so it was working intermittently, making it incredibly difficult to drive half the time for the rest of the tournament!
Oh dang, I had no idea! Thanks for the great fight!
This is a great video, very well edited and presented! I'm glad to see more combat Robotics channels popping up that actually put in the effort to make original content about building and improving robots.
Squishy and compliant wheels are a good solution to this problem. TPU wheel hubs are super popular in beetles for the same reason. I would also recommend making the wheel hubs as close to the face of the motor as possible to reduce the bending load on the shaft/output bushing or bearing or whatever it is for silver sparks.
Love the TPU spokes solution and the clips of all the fights! I think TPU is one of the most underrated filaments. And by lowering the diameter of your wheels, you probably will gain some more control and maybe some more torque.
You're totally right! Tpu is near damn indestructible. I sell printed stuff at the markets and I have a tpu one and I say to kids "if you can break it you can have another one"... I still haven't given one away yet 😂
I've been using the same Fingertech 11:1 motors on my bot (aproximately 30mm tall wheels) since 2019 and never had to change them. I've had 17 matches. Here in the Midwest we've gotten a reputation for some major hitters. I've bee slammed into the ceiling, Thrown into walls, and gotten into major pushing matches. I think part of why I survive is the small diameter of the wheels. It will limit the leverage concerning lateral twisting of the axel.
You're probably right. Thanks for the information!
I think you're onto a winning design with cheesecake. Especially when he gets his "secret weapon" for the wedges 😉. That spinner does spin very fast lol
That’s amazing glad it worked,can’t wait to see it throw down at Mechanical mayhem hopefully in January! Now question how would you think that’d work for a beetle now? This could be something useful to use on power surge
You know, it just might work for a beetle, but don't quote me on that; I've never built or even driven a beetle, so I don't know anything. All I know is that I'm going the Hypershock route of simply shock-mounting everything.
You should extend the wheels back again, this will allow you to right faster from being stuck upright but more importantly, it could allow you to absorb more shock from falling on the back. Those compliant wheels were really effective I'd say.
I've thought about it, but have you ever tried to steer a heavy shopping cart using the handle bar at the back? That's what it's like to drive old Cheesecake: tons of under-steering. Now, if I can redistribute some of the weight more toward the rear inside the chassis... maybe this design could make a comeback.
With such large wheels, you might be better off offsetting the motors and running TPU/nylon gearing to absorb the torsional loads from the wheels hitting the ground at high speed
Would it help to angle the edge of your weapon such that it would either be exactly vertical or even such that the top edge is closer to the main body than the bottom edge? As it is now I should thing the natural force on the edge tends to push the weapon up and away from your opponent, especially when they have sloped sides. When you change the angle of the edge of your weapon you could maybe change it such that it tends to dig in, or be neutral if digging in would give too much load too fast on the weapon.
I'm not sure I like the pit for smaller venues. It's too random. Seems it's used more in Europe and Canada due to Robot Wars influence. Maybe only open it 2/3 the way through.
Here is my personal opinion, The wheels were too big for the motors, so that the motors were running too big of wheels
You're probably right. It's just so nice to have big wheels! They keep me up away from people's weapons, and they allow me to drive over debris that might otherwise get me stuck... but you're probably right.
What do you think about foam wheels?
They're probably fine, but I like being able to customize my wheels and give them rubber band treads. I can't easily make my own foam wheels.
Loving your videos.
Quick question, is hitting the wall to get your robot unstuck allowed?
I'm pretty sure you can hit the wall as much as you want. Most arenas have a "kick plate" at the base of the wall where most robots are likely to hit it anyway. Just... you know, don't set out to specifically break the arena.
@@alexsalchemy Thanks, good to know. I could have imagined that there where rules about "outside" interference.
@@dutchdrifter8740- Oh wait, I'm sorry, you were asking if it's okay for the driver to hit the wall of the arena with their hand. Generally the answer is no, but you do get one "un stick", and you can do it by hitting the wall from the outside if that works.
Why did your weapon stop spinning during the fight?
I think my weapon motor overheated. I did a lot of weapon and motor tests this weekend, and I found that the weapon I used at this tournament was probably too big for the 1800KV weapon motor, which caused the motor to draw a lot of current and overheat.
@@alexsalchemy Did the motor or the ESC overheat? Does an overheated motor recover its magnetism after a cooldown?
@@human890209yang - The ESC was okay (I think). The overheated motor recovered. I think it shut down because the copper wires got hot, which increased their electrical resistance, and not enough current got through to spin the motor. I'm not an electrical engineer, so that's my best guess.
@@alexsalchemy Thanks.
why do they allow wedgebots at all? it ruins the fun
I kind of thought so too, until I created an attachment that can beat them! ruclips.net/video/IFbMgoOWIMc/видео.html