Thank you. I recently experienced the blinking LED light of death with both of my Costco Altair Coach lights. Both issues presented themselves within weeks of each other and each required a different solution. Both lights blinked as if they were sending Morse Code. The first light required a new LED plate. The second light was resolved with a replacement of the LED driver (purchased from ledsupply.com) as explained in your video. FYI - It you order a replacement LED plate from Altair, their new design completely eliminates the need for a LED driver. So if you can troubleshoot the LED plate being the source of your issue you will not need to purchase a LED driver. Again, your quality, well explained and video taped RUclips video gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my own. Thanks for saving me the cost of new coach lights. This video embodies what makes RUclips great. Kudos!!!!
Thanks for you kind comments. I'm glad you were able to fix your lights. I've seen the latest LED as a COB with built in current drivers. They're available cheap on eBay. I might even be tempted to pick-up one to test.
Hey Ricardo. Good video but what about replacing the LEDs. I did your tutorial and only 3 of the LEDs are working. Is there a fix for this or a replacement LED PCB board
Thanks for making this video. I have three of these lights on our home, and one of them stopped working over a month ago. I knew the photocell was still working as I would hear a click when I covered the sensor. I found your video and ordered the replacement part. Then the light started working again on its own. That didn't last. Finally got around to doing the fix today. Thanks to your easy-to-follow video, I now have three working lights again.
Great video Ricardo. My front porch lights have been flashing for a while now. I came across your video and gave it a try. 4 new drivers and an hour of work and now I have 4 porch lights that work properly. I bypassed the light sensor like you suggested and I am very happy with the results. Thanks again. Cheers!
As I sat there an looked at the different colored wires from the original LED driver and the new one, I wasn't sure what to do. Thankfully, you provided exactly the information I needed about which wire goes with the other ones. Let me summarize that in case anyone else has the same issue (Working with the same driver recommended by Mr. Moreno): From the LED driver to the LED plate with lights: Red to red. Yellow to black. From the LED driver to the light sensor and house wiring cluster: Blue wire to the white neutrals. Brown wire to the black wires.
I have the same garage lights that are in the video. Same problem with the blinking. What is the email address for the company you got your replacement parts.And what is the replacement model number thanks
Wow thank you ! Our neighbor and i were competing with the same lights to see whos would last the longest .. Mine won.... I had to actually replace one other whole light because i did not know what was wrong with it... Thank you now both mt neighbor and i can both fix our lights... Ill definately buy other ones of these defusers to fix any other ones of my lights... Im so excited to fix it ... Thank you so much!
Ricardo, - Thanks for providing a great public service. I never knew these lights were purchased at costco. I only knew they were Luminaire/Altair products. Luminaire sold their lighting division off a few years ago. I bought 2 new drivers and will install one tomorrow. I'll keep a 2nd as a spare.
Great video. I had both Costco wall sconces look like s strobelight. Your video was the best informational on RUclips, It took me step by step replacing the driver. Great video Ricardo. Your the man.
Awesome! I have 6 of these fixtures on my house, and I love how they look, and the light they put off, but 4 years after install 2 of them are flickering. I bought 3 of the drivers you listed (make sure you select the correct options because the link doesn't auto fill to the exact one). It took me about 35 minutes to do the first one, and about 10 minutes to do the second one. They work perfectly now! I ordered a spare cuz I'm sure another will fail someday, and now I'll be ready! BTW... I wired to include the photocell so the brown wire from the driver goes to the red wire coming off the photocell.
Thanks for your great videos and detailed parts listing ! I just repaired a Lantern light (altair/costco) that had been collecting dust in the garage. Now to repair the other lights (I have 5 outside). Thanks Again !
I used your video to help me replace the constant current driver in my lantern. The driver failed less than 2 years after purchase. I even used your links to purchase my replacement driver: thanks! The only change I would recommend would be to use water resistant wire nuts so that water penetration into the light doesn’t compromise the connections. I was able to reuse the mounting point on the light to attach the driver with the old screw: it is only attached in one spot but this isn’t a moving fixture so I’m not concerned about it coming loose. Thanks again!
Thank you for your video. We have the same Costo LED Porch Lantern that went bad. I ordered the drivers and replaced them today. I watched your video couple times and had no issue replacing them.
Continues to be a great video for this issue, have 4 of these lights in the front of the house, and I've had to change out the driver on 3 of them over the past couple of years.
GRACIAS. Vi los dos videos y fueron de mucha ayuda. Tengo la misma lampara y empezo a destellar. No encontraba el driver correcto, pero ahora si voy a pedirlo en Amazon. 5 manitas arriba.
Thanks for video. My 2150 is flashing, I replaced the driver as you demonstrated. However it is still flashes. I have four these lights, so swapped out the LED plate with one that works properly. Now the flashing issue has changed lights. Do you know where can purchase the 8 LED pad?
Ricardo, I just completed this repair on two of my Costco lights but I still have a problem. One of them appears to have a failing LED board as only one of the LEDs come one brightly with a couple of others being dim and yet others not lighting at all. It seems that the board is failing and even after I replaced the LED driver. Do you or any of the readers know where I can buy the little round LED plates with the aluminum heat sink?
Costco has many different LED lights available. Do you have exactly the same light as mine? If yours looks different, or your LED array looks different, or your constant current driver looks different, DO NOT copy what I did! You may damage your LED light! This video was a follow up from my first video. That video kinda goes through how to buy a replacement driver. YOU MUST find a new driver that matches the old driver or has better ratings. You must match the mA rating! So, if you existing driver has 350mA, you need a 350mA replacement. This is the constant current that the constant current driver will supply. Higher values will burn up your LEDs. Lower values may not work at all. If your old driver has an output voltage range like 18-35 volts, YOU MUST find a driver that has that range. It can also be a little lower and a little higher, but that range must be included. For example, a new driver with a range of 11-45V would cover the previous range of 18-35 volts. Failure to meet this will subject your LEDs to the wrong voltage values. LEDs voltage requirements change with temperature. This is the reason we need this range. Lastly wattage must meet or exceed the previous wattage. This is where I think greater is better. Having a higher wattage gives you a margin of driver capability.
Fixed mine, thanks, BUT! After about 2 months half the LED's went out, now only 1 LED is on. Can you recommend an led cluster I can swap out? Even if it means drilling out a sizeable hole in the AL reflective heatsink plate? Anything that would work with this new LED driver I just installed? Thank you.
Awesome video, I see your previous has many views, I was pretty bummed that this burned out and you cant just replace the led bulb... I have an old light bulb receptacle lying around, im going to cut a hole in the aluminum housing where the led is mounted and add my receptacle...... can you tell me If the red leg of photo cell goes to my receptacle or is it the black one? thanks
If I recall correctly, the red leg of the photo cell would go to the black wire (hot) of the receptacle. The white (neutral) would connect to the white wire.
I replaced my constant current a few minutes ago. I did same steps as he did, but, I attached the Brown wire, with the red wire coming out of the photocell. The light works and the photocell or light cell works. !!!! I was so excited! My husband was amazed! Yay!
Where did you get your parts? My fixed current driver is $30 and a compatible LED is $20. The entire fixture can be replaced for $38 so I may switch the socket to a standard Medium Base E26 so an ordinary LED bulb can be used.
Great video!!! Mine just did it and I'll be ordering parts next. But my question is, if you are going from 12W to 16W are you making the LED's work harder? Will they shine brighter and burn out?
I have three of these lanterns and all three went out within months of each other. We replaced drivers in all three according to the video instructions. One worked great. The other two did not. The second lamp is completely dead and the third lamp flickers once in a while but produces no real light. All the wiring, including wires in the wall, look correct with no corrosion. All three are on the same circuit but only one has a switch. The two not working have no switch. What can be the issue?
you can try testing the working driver with the other 2 lamps that did not work correctly. Try to rule out whether its the driver or the leds. Also check that no wires were connected in reverse and that you do get current from the wall where each lamp goes.
Good video. My issues are the following: The ground wire that’s attached below the nut, on the piece that is attached flush to the wall, is really frayed. I don’t know what to call the piece. Secondly, can I screw a wire nut around the ground wire from the lamp and from the box together? These lamps were given to us. I’m concerned about the frayed ground wire that’s connected to the plate piece.
what is the point of these lanterns, why dont I just put a regular lantern with clasic screw in bulb and buy led bulbs for it. We bought a house it has 4 of these, they all went out.
Ricardo my wires are covered in what looks like black electrical tape but is a plastic covering. Any idea on how I release the wires. It is Model AL-2167
Of course, I think there are several comments discussing you to add a standard bulb socket to this fixture. Note, most standard LED bulbs are not meant for outdoor use.
I have the same problem with mine. I purchased the same replacement part. I installed it WITH the light sensor in the loop. Upon testing, when I cover the light sensor all of the eight LEDs immediately illuminate. But then six of them go out. I have tried it several times and the results are the same. What could be the issue? I have a video if needed.
Good video but NEVER assume it's just one thing. I used a meter to check the voltage to the LED's. I found that they were getting 39 volts so that ruled out the driver. My LED's were bad.
I was expected some problem isolation technique as we have two components which might be bad as well: driver and LED. I guess I have to switch parts with the good one to see what component is bad.
were you able to replace your LED's? If so, where did you find replacements. I've spent a few hours googling for replacemnt LED's but cant find any. 120 VAC input, 36 VDC out put driver.
I just connected this exact driver and used the photocell. You want to connect the white wire from the photocell to the white wire coming from the house and the blue wire going into the driver. You want to connect the black wire from the photocell to the black wire coming from the house. You want to connect the red wire from the photocell to the brown wire going into the driver. Connect the yellow wire from the light to the black wire leaving the driver. Connect the red wire from the light to the red wire from the driver. That is what I did and it works great.
Had a bad LED lantern from Altaris thru costco. Started flickering and then just went out. Replaced the led power supply but it still does not work. Checked the output voltage on the power supply it was a constant 46.5 V. Could the led strip itself have gone out ? If yes, where can I find a replacement? . Thanks for your video , very informative and well made.
My photo cell had only two wires - black and gray. I broke the power supply from the house with these...black from house to photocell and photocell to driver. It is not working. Is this not the proper way to wire it? Could the photocell be bad?
Very simple straight forward repair. Cut the quick connect from the old driver and connect it to the new driver with mar connectors. I believe they are a red and a black wire .Connect the other two wires on the other end to what it was attached to on the old driver .Both old and new drivers should be labelled the same .
Good instruction however I decided to dump the Driver and LED board for a snap in light socket. Just drill a hole for the socket into the deflector plate. Bought from Lowes for $5 each.
@@user-gl9vp6em6o If you need your dusk to dawn sensor, simply wire it between the house black wire and hot input of the driver. Think of the photo sensor as a switch. Or between the house black wire and the light socket.
My issue was the photo eye. I replaced the driver and it still didn't work. So, I bypassed the photo eye and it worked. I can't read the part number on the photo eye to get a new one. 😢
I contacted Altair customer support and they said I needed a new LED plate, which now includes the driver. I purchased the new plate and installed but it didn’t work. Decided to replace this one and one other I own.
Every LED light has different driver. You will need to find one that matches your output voltage range, mA (milli-amps), and wattage. see my other video ruclips.net/video/de9pA0WyFe8/видео.html
I replaced the drivers last year on all 5 of my lights. Now one went very dim for a while and I just noticed it is out completely. I am not sure it would be a driver or the led. Any suggestions and could a driver go out in a year?
Yes, my suggestion is to junk all LED's and go strickly to bulbs. Its hard to find drivers etc. and not counting al the dismantling when you can just change a bulb.
I followed the instructions and when put back together, the light is very dim. Any idea what went wrong? I bought three apc-16-350 drivers from mean well. Thanks
Hi! I have the Altair al 2149. It started blinking. I took it apart and noticed everything was the same except I don’t have a black wire To connect to the house power, I have the white wire. Is it still the same wiring process? Btw I’m using the photocell wiring as well. Thanks!
Same here. I attached the 2 white wires to the blue wire and left the red and black to plug into the led light circular plate. So now i have a brown wire and a red wire left
Hi Ricardo, we replaced the power supply, but only 2 out of the 8 LED's are lighting up, the others are burnt out. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement part?
I have repaired one already but now, a couple of years later, the other one is blinking. But when I look at it it looks like only one of the LEDs is lighting so I am not sure it is the controller and not just the LED thing.
I have that situation also. If there are blank spots on the failed LEDs, then both LED and controller are bad. Good luck buying a pair of compatible components. I'm thinking of converting to Medium Base E26 socket so all the LED smarts is in an ordinary replaceable bulb and it's not a problem to repair every few years. Just change the bulb.
This looks entirely doable. However can anyone justify NOT replacing the controller and LED with a Medium Base E26 Socket so future updates could be as simple and cheap as replacing the LED bulb?
The 3 small screws holding the reflector stripped instantaneously upon trying to unscrew, even being careful and trying different Phillips head sizing. All in garbage now.
Derek, perhaps LED Supply has a LED that you could match up to your driver. There's also EBay. Be sure to check all the voltage and current parameters (in this case you need match the LED with your driver). Let me know what you come up with.
Ricardo, Thanks for your helpful video's. I have 2 of these Costco Altair LED Lanterns. We recently had a power outage and I saw that one of them blew out. Do you think I would just have to replace the power supply - or all of the actual LED's? I'm sorry if this is an obvious answer - but i am a complete novice. Thanks
No. First, did you simply buy the same driver? Not all LED lights use the same driver. This video was a follow-up from my first video. Watch that video first!!! You must match the driver's voltage range and wattage/mA. Failure to do so may burn up your LED array.
One of my lanterns were out and found this video to replace the driver. Light was still not working and come to find out it’s the LED ring that I need to replace. Anyone know where I am able to find the LED replacements?
Where were you able to get the new drivers. The lighting place I call says I have to buy a new fixture as they aren’t available I need output 6-10v 700ma load 6-9 watt led in series led d35-2 input 120v 60hz
I was trying to keep the original look of my LED lights. So no, I don't have a video on gutting out the lantern and installing a socket for a LED bulb. But that sounds like an interesting project for the future.
Replacing the lamp, do you mean the entire lantern assembly? Since I bought three that match, I wanted to keep a matching set. Now if you are referring to the little LED array, sure you could replace the array with on that has a built-in driver or buy a LED array with a matching constant current driver. However, you risk getting a light that has different lumens (brightness) or kelvins (color).
Have 2 of these, and both lanterns stopped working about 2 weeks ago as well! Wanted the dimming function, so I bought the "PCD Series Mean Well 16~25W CC LED Drivers with Triac dimming. Wattage: 16W. Output Current: 350mA". This driver is compatible with this lantern, and regular household dimmers (Triac dimming). The dimming works reasonably well! LEDSupply has fast shipping! Ordered Thursday, delivered Monday! www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/mean-well-pcd-series-with-triac-dimming
First off, I'm not electronically inclined, just enough to be dangerous. He's my situation with these Costco Lights: I have 3 of these units. One started blinking. Before thinking it was the Driver, I removed the (Fickering) Round LED Reflector and installed it on one of the good operating Lanterns and ... no dice. I took what was a good Round LED Reflector and installed it on the bad or flickering unit and bingo, it worked fine. So to me the Drivers are all working fine but I have a faulty LED Chip/mechanism (mounted to the Reflector Plate). Can I simply (where?) buy a replacement LED Chip compatible with this unit that already has the connector and wires fused to the chip and or plate? How to figure that out?
That is an excellent question. Perhaps LED Supply has a LED and driver set that you can purchase. There's also EBay. Hopefully you can match the color, lumens ,or wattage, as the other two. Let me know what you come up with.
@@virgilbanowetz4941 I have 3 of these running off the same switch. 1 of em just constantly strobes. I disconnected it. Another out of the 3 recently started strobing, but all the sudden started working fine again. I have no dimmer switch. I have no idea what the issue is.
@@floydclark6710 Your controller is bad causing the flashing. You can try buying a matching controller to the LED circuit. Good luck with that! I recommend you get a simple socket and a common screw-in LED bulb that matches the color of the other lights in the area.
I have these exact integrated LED lights all around my house. 3 of them, all connected to the same switch... A couple months ago, 1 started strobing. I disconnected it. A couple weeks ago, another 1 out of those 3 started strobing, but all the sudden is working correctly again. I have no dimmer switch. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be?
Your driver has a range of voltages that it can operate with a maximum wattage. If the temperature change is great enough, you may be exceeding the capability of the driver. This causes the strobing. Or your driver is near its end of life.
Honestly though, what a damn pain in the ass if you have to remove the entire light from your home and unscrew 5 different things, strip wires, buy a new driver and swap it... Like how does this even save energy or money or time. I have this same light and after 3 years I have to do all this instead of just change a bulb. Im livid enough to just return the whole damn thing to Costco so they never sell this burden ass product ever again.
Not sure if Costco even sells this particular light anymore. For those of us that want to keep the light, this video suggest some repair options. Not sure about time, but LED lights generally use less power than a traditional bulb. So, I guess that's how it can save you money. Repairing it just might make the ROI a little longer.
@@rickmorenojr Costco gives full cash refunds for any product that's not "electronics". I don't need the same light I just need A light. I'd rather get refunded and hope Costco learns a lesson on not selling cheap garbage anymore, hopefully they cut ties with this company
@@rickmorenojr $15 for a driver just to save 6 cents a month in electricity.... Forget this light. The carbon footprint to even make the driver is huge compared to making an energy wasting lightbulb
Im with you. Don't understand why they dont just put a bulb socket and use an LED bulb. Same efficiency and far less hassle. I bet a lot of these get thrown away, so there goes lower carbon footprint. It makes for a disposable light instead of making something that lasts 30 years and gets replaced for aesthetics.
It's been about five or six years since I've repaired my lights. They're still working great. Plus, LED lights use less power than standard bulbs. Easier doesn't always mean better.
Unfortunately, I purchase a replacement driver for each light. So, I purchased three. My last light just starting blinking on me. I'm hoping that the new driver is more robust than the OEM.
Actually this is simple. Two wires in, two wires out. Simple. Complicated is driving a Ford model T. Darn, I wish I had a link to that video showing how this was done. The three foot pedals are used to switch gears, throttle was the right lever/stock next to the steering wheel, timing(?) was on the left lever/stock, and lastly you had the hand brake which you also used to shift gears (move hand brake, press foot pedal). Wow, I'm glad that cars are as complicated.
Well, they're no more complicated than ordinary incandescent bulbs to connect to your house. They're just a little more complicated to fix. After I've fixed mine, they've been trouble free ever since.
@@rickmorenojr I purchased my house last year and they have these type of light. I can’t find them in any hardware store. I can’t find them anywhere . One of the lights has a serious Dimming issue it’s pretty much out…. They were supposed to last for 30 years yeah right
Rich. I have 13 of these on my house. They all started malfunctioning, you saved me a lot of money and I am very grateful, Thank you
Thank you. I recently experienced the blinking LED light of death with both of my Costco Altair Coach lights. Both issues presented themselves within weeks of each other and each required a different solution. Both lights blinked as if they were sending Morse Code.
The first light required a new LED plate. The second light was resolved with a replacement of the LED driver (purchased from ledsupply.com) as explained in your video. FYI - It you order a replacement LED plate from Altair, their new design completely eliminates the need for a LED driver. So if you can troubleshoot the LED plate being the source of your issue you will not need to purchase a LED driver.
Again, your quality, well explained and video taped RUclips video gave me the confidence to tackle this project on my own. Thanks for saving me the cost of new coach lights. This video embodies what makes RUclips great. Kudos!!!!
Thanks for you kind comments. I'm glad you were able to fix your lights. I've seen the latest LED as a COB with built in current drivers. They're available cheap on eBay. I might even be tempted to pick-up one to test.
Hey Ricardo. Good video but what about replacing the LEDs. I did your tutorial and only 3 of the LEDs are working. Is there a fix for this or a replacement LED PCB board
Thanks for making this video. I have three of these lights on our home, and one of them stopped working over a month ago. I knew the photocell was still working as I would hear a click when I covered the sensor. I found your video and ordered the replacement part. Then the light started working again on its own. That didn't last. Finally got around to doing the fix today. Thanks to your easy-to-follow video, I now have three working lights again.
Thanks Ricardo! You helped my fix 3 of these darn things! I even gave one to my Neighbor! You're amazingly generous for sharing this!
Just changed my 3rd one out of 3 over the last three years and this video is such a good refresher. Thank you Ricardo! 👍👍👍
Great video Ricardo. My front porch lights have been flashing for a while now. I came across your video and gave it a try. 4 new drivers and an hour of work and now I have 4 porch lights that work properly. I bypassed the light sensor like you suggested and I am very happy with the results. Thanks again. Cheers!
As I sat there an looked at the different colored wires from the original LED driver and the new one, I wasn't sure what to do. Thankfully, you provided exactly the information I needed about which wire goes with the other ones. Let me summarize that in case anyone else has the same issue (Working with the same driver recommended by Mr. Moreno):
From the LED driver to the LED plate with lights:
Red to red.
Yellow to black.
From the LED driver to the light sensor and house wiring cluster:
Blue wire to the white neutrals.
Brown wire to the black wires.
I have the same garage lights that are in the video. Same problem with the blinking. What is the email address for the company you got your replacement parts.And what is the replacement model number
thanks
Wow thank you ! Our neighbor and i were competing with the same lights to see whos would last the longest
.. Mine won.... I had to actually replace one other whole light because i did not know what was wrong with it... Thank you now both mt neighbor and i can both fix our lights... Ill definately buy other ones of these defusers to fix any other ones of my lights... Im so excited to fix it ... Thank you so much!
Ricardo, - Thanks for providing a great public service. I never knew these lights were purchased at costco. I only knew they were Luminaire/Altair products. Luminaire sold their lighting division off a few years ago. I bought 2 new drivers and will install one tomorrow. I'll keep a 2nd as a spare.
I'm glad I could help.
Great video. I had both Costco wall sconces look like s strobelight. Your video was the best informational on RUclips, It took me step by step replacing the driver. Great video Ricardo. Your the man.
Awesome! I have 6 of these fixtures on my house, and I love how they look, and the light they put off, but 4 years after install 2 of them are flickering. I bought 3 of the drivers you listed (make sure you select the correct options because the link doesn't auto fill to the exact one). It took me about 35 minutes to do the first one, and about 10 minutes to do the second one. They work perfectly now! I ordered a spare cuz I'm sure another will fail someday, and now I'll be ready!
BTW... I wired to include the photocell so the brown wire from the driver goes to the red wire coming off the photocell.
Thanks for your great videos and detailed parts listing ! I just repaired a Lantern light (altair/costco) that had been collecting dust in the garage. Now to repair the other lights (I have 5 outside). Thanks Again !
Thank you! I always feel good when I can fix something without calling a repair man! I did it myself.
I used your video to help me replace the constant current driver in my lantern. The driver failed less than 2 years after purchase. I even used your links to purchase my replacement driver: thanks! The only change I would recommend would be to use water resistant wire nuts so that water penetration into the light doesn’t compromise the connections. I was able to reuse the mounting point on the light to attach the driver with the old screw: it is only attached in one spot but this isn’t a moving fixture so I’m not concerned about it coming loose. Thanks again!
Thank you for your video. We have the same Costo LED Porch Lantern that went bad. I ordered the drivers and replaced them today. I watched your video couple times and had no issue replacing them.
Where and which ones did you order?
Continues to be a great video for this issue, have 4 of these lights in the front of the house, and I've had to change out the driver on 3 of them over the past couple of years.
I junked all my LED's, could not find the drivers made in China, (Costco lamps), so i now use bulbs only, no hassels, just change the bulbs.
GRACIAS. Vi los dos videos y fueron de mucha ayuda. Tengo la misma lampara y empezo a destellar. No encontraba el driver correcto, pero ahora si voy a pedirlo en Amazon. 5 manitas arriba.
Thanks for video. My 2150 is flashing, I replaced the driver as you demonstrated. However it is still flashes. I have four these lights, so swapped out the LED plate with one that works properly. Now the flashing issue has changed lights. Do you know where can purchase the 8 LED pad?
Ricardo, I just completed this repair on two of my Costco lights but I still have a problem. One of them appears to have a failing LED board as only one of the LEDs come one brightly with a couple of others being dim and yet others not lighting at all. It seems that the board is failing and even after I replaced the LED driver. Do you or any of the readers know where I can buy the little round LED plates with the aluminum heat sink?
Costco has many different LED lights available. Do you have exactly the same light as mine? If yours looks different, or your LED array looks different, or your constant current driver looks different, DO NOT copy what I did! You may damage your LED light! This video was a follow up from my first video. That video kinda goes through how to buy a replacement driver. YOU MUST find a new driver that matches the old driver or has better ratings. You must match the mA rating! So, if you existing driver has 350mA, you need a 350mA replacement. This is the constant current that the constant current driver will supply. Higher values will burn up your LEDs. Lower values may not work at all. If your old driver has an output voltage range like 18-35 volts, YOU MUST find a driver that has that range. It can also be a little lower and a little higher, but that range must be included. For example, a new driver with a range of 11-45V would cover the previous range of 18-35 volts. Failure to meet this will subject your LEDs to the wrong voltage values. LEDs voltage requirements change with temperature. This is the reason we need this range. Lastly wattage must meet or exceed the previous wattage. This is where I think greater is better. Having a higher wattage gives you a margin of driver capability.
Fixed mine, thanks, BUT! After about 2 months half the LED's went out, now only 1 LED is on. Can you recommend an led cluster I can swap out? Even if it means drilling out a sizeable hole in the AL reflective heatsink plate? Anything that would work with this new LED driver I just installed? Thank you.
Awesome video, I see your previous has many views, I was pretty bummed that this burned out and you cant just replace the led bulb... I have an old light bulb receptacle lying around, im going to cut a hole in the aluminum housing where the led is mounted and add my receptacle...... can you tell me If the red leg of photo cell goes to my receptacle or is it the black one?
thanks
If I recall correctly, the red leg of the photo cell would go to the black wire (hot) of the receptacle. The white (neutral) would connect to the white wire.
Thanks very much for this instructive video - great work!
I just did it!! Thank you! That was so fun and saved us lots of money!
This totally helped me! Thank you. It was very easy to do.
I decided to wire mine just as you did because of my pre existing timer. What would cause the LED’s to shine dim?
What if you still want to use the photo eye? What is the wiring for that?
I replaced my constant current a few minutes ago. I did same steps as he did, but, I attached the Brown wire, with the red wire coming out of the photocell. The light works and the photocell or light cell works. !!!! I was so excited! My husband was amazed! Yay!
Great video. My light now works as new. Thank you!
Thanks for the great video, fixed both units for $15.
Where did you get your parts? My fixed current driver is $30 and a compatible LED is $20. The entire fixture can be replaced for $38 so I may switch the socket to a standard Medium Base E26 so an ordinary LED bulb can be used.
Great video!!! Mine just did it and I'll be ordering parts next. But my question is, if you are going from 12W to 16W are you making the LED's work harder? Will they shine brighter and burn out?
No, 16W is just the maximum capability of the constant current driver. The LED brightness will not change so long as you match the voltage parameters.
I have three of these lanterns and all three went out within months of each other. We replaced drivers in all three according to the video instructions. One worked great. The other two did not. The second lamp is completely dead and the third lamp flickers once in a while but produces no real light. All the wiring, including wires in the wall, look correct with no corrosion. All three are on the same circuit but only one has a switch. The two not working have no switch. What can be the issue?
you can try testing the working driver with the other 2 lamps that did not work correctly. Try to rule out whether its the driver or the leds.
Also check that no wires were connected in reverse and that you do get current from the wall where each lamp goes.
Just had an electrictian install the new driver....still doesnt work He said its the chip
Thank you. Great video.
Can you just cut the power to the light and do the repair or do you have to remove the entire lantern for the house?
Removing the light from the house just makes working on it easier and safer. Technically, the repair can be without removing the light.
Hey where can i get the LED BOARD for this lantern??
Good video. My issues are the following:
The ground wire that’s attached below the nut, on the piece that is attached flush to the wall, is really frayed. I don’t know what to call the piece.
Secondly, can I screw a wire nut around the ground wire from the lamp and from the box together?
These lamps were given to us. I’m concerned about the frayed ground wire that’s connected to the plate piece.
I always recommend that if you are not sure what you are doing, get a professional. It wouldn't be a bad idea to replace any damaged wire.
what is the point of these lanterns, why dont I just put a regular lantern with clasic screw in bulb and buy led bulbs for it. We bought a house it has 4 of these, they all went out.
More E-Waste I imagine. Abusing a good idea for profit.
For those that replaced the driver a while ago, are they still working fine? If so gonna order 4 soon.
Ricardo my wires are covered in what looks like black electrical tape but is a plastic covering. Any idea on how I release the wires. It is Model AL-2167
ruclips.net/video/P_8Q7KlsuTw/видео.html
Mine led lights hanging down . Like layers cardboard hanging down . Does alum disk take its place ? Do you have a link for the disk?
Is there an easy way to convert to a bulb mechanism? This is too complicated
Of course, I think there are several comments discussing you to add a standard bulb socket to this fixture. Note, most standard LED bulbs are not meant for outdoor use.
Very helpful could not figure out the different color wires...Thanks
I have the same problem with mine. I purchased the same replacement part. I installed it WITH the light sensor in the loop. Upon testing, when I cover the light sensor all of the eight LEDs immediately illuminate. But then six of them go out. I have tried it several times and the results are the same. What could be the issue? I have a video if needed.
Did u ever resolve this issue?? I just did mine today and same thing is happening. TIA
@@srugila Contacted company and they replaced my drivers and led plate.
Where do they sell that wire stripper you use in the video? I have 3 ballasts on order and hope to get mine fixed.
Good video but NEVER assume it's just one thing. I used a meter to check the voltage to the LED's. I found that they were getting 39 volts so that ruled out the driver. My LED's were bad.
I was expected some problem isolation technique as we have two components which might be bad as well: driver and LED. I guess I have to switch parts with the good one to see what component is bad.
I was wondering how he knew he had a bad driver.
were you able to replace your LED's? If so, where did you find replacements. I've spent a few hours googling for replacemnt LED's but cant find any. 120 VAC input, 36 VDC out put driver.
Same problem, I can't find the replacement LEDs anywhere.
In case that problem are the LEDs maybe you can replace driver and LEDs with a normal LED bulb 💡
If you want to use the photocell do you connect the brown wire from the LED power supply with the red wire from the photocell?
I just connected this exact driver and used the photocell. You want to connect the white wire from the photocell to the white wire coming from the house and the blue wire going into the driver. You want to connect the black wire from the photocell to the black wire coming from the house. You want to connect the red wire from the photocell to the brown wire going into the driver. Connect the yellow wire from the light to the black wire leaving the driver. Connect the red wire from the light to the red wire from the driver. That is what I did and it works great.
@@max_power3386 Thank you very much.
Had a bad LED lantern from Altaris thru costco. Started flickering and then just went out. Replaced the led power supply but it still does not work. Checked the output voltage on the power supply it was a constant 46.5 V. Could the led strip itself have gone out ? If yes, where can I find a replacement? . Thanks for your video , very informative and well made.
I purchased a driver but my electrician said it was the LED.
Hi, what if I want to keep the photo cell/ switch working , how do I wire those two wires back into it or it can't be done
Is this the same fix if my light is flickering ?
If light is flickering disconnect the photo cell or if you put a piece of electrical tape over the photo cell lens ( it will stay on all day & night)
@@pamgiebler4587 If covering the photocell fails to stop the flickering, it is the controller that is bad.
My photo cell had only two wires - black and gray. I broke the power supply from the house with these...black from house to photocell and photocell to driver. It is not working. Is this not the proper way to wire it? Could the photocell be bad?
What if you want to use the photo cell. How you connect the wires?
Very simple straight forward repair. Cut the quick connect from the old driver and connect it to the new driver with mar connectors. I believe they are a red and a black wire .Connect the other two wires on the other end to what it was attached to on the old driver .Both old and new drivers should be labelled the same .
perfect for small jobs in the garage
Good instruction however I decided to dump the Driver and LED board for a snap in light socket. Just drill a hole for the socket into the deflector plate. Bought from Lowes for $5 each.
Does your dusk to dawn sensor still work?
Bypassed the d2d function in favor of a Kasa WiFi Dimmer switch.
@@user-gl9vp6em6o If you need your dusk to dawn sensor, simply wire it between the house black wire and hot input of the driver. Think of the photo sensor as a switch. Or between the house black wire and the light socket.
@@user-gl9vp6em6o
My issue was the photo eye. I replaced the driver and it still didn't work. So, I bypassed the photo eye and it worked. I can't read the part number on the photo eye to get a new one. 😢
I contacted Altair customer support and they said I needed a new LED plate, which now includes the driver. I purchased the new plate and installed but it didn’t work. Decided to replace this one and one other I own.
I have a Model Altair AL-2150 with 8 LEDs do you know if your is the same and what driver would I need since they are different for each model?
Every LED light has different driver. You will need to find one that matches your output voltage range, mA (milli-amps), and wattage. see my other video ruclips.net/video/de9pA0WyFe8/видео.html
Where did you get the driver?
I replaced the drivers last year on all 5 of my lights. Now one went very dim for a while and I just noticed it is out completely. I am not sure it would be a driver or the led. Any suggestions and could a driver go out in a year?
Yes, my suggestion is to junk all LED's and go strickly to bulbs. Its hard to find drivers etc. and not counting al the dismantling when you can just change a bulb.
I followed the instructions and when put back together, the light is very dim. Any idea what went wrong? I bought three apc-16-350 drivers from mean well. Thanks
Is your light exactly the same as the one shown in the video?
Mine was dim also, only one led was working. See my post above to replace LEDs with a bulb socket and led bulb, remove the current driver.
@@dmudder5529 I thought about this too. Less guess works and replacements is not hard to find.
Hi! I have the Altair al 2149. It started blinking. I took it apart and noticed everything was the same except I don’t have a black wire To connect to the house power, I have the white wire. Is it still the same wiring process? Btw I’m using the photocell wiring as well. Thanks!
Hmmm...there should be two insulated wires going to your house (and bare ground wire). What colors do you have?
Same here. I attached the 2 white wires to the blue wire and left the red and black to plug into the led light circular plate. So now i have a brown wire and a red wire left
How do you have a repair video without links to the replacement parts but you have 3 minutes on how to remove screws.
Sorry, I had the links in the show notes on my first repair video. I'll add them here too.
That would be great. I would like the links too
Hi Ricardo, we replaced the power supply, but only 2 out of the 8 LED's are lighting up, the others are burnt out. Do you have a recommendation for a replacement part?
Cree CXB 1310 High Density LED array. Make sure you purchase with wire extension already solder to LED.
Oh, you will need Arctic Alumina premium thermal adhesive or some comparable product to attach LED to aluminum heat shield. No screw holes on new LED.
@@jameswalls6565 will this be the appropriate path to follow if the LEDs are frequently blinking? Dont want to buy a module I dont need...
I have repaired one already but now, a couple of years later, the other one is blinking. But when I look at it it looks like only one of the LEDs is lighting so I am not sure it is the controller and not just the LED thing.
I have that situation also. If there are blank spots on the failed LEDs, then both LED and controller are bad. Good luck buying a pair of compatible components. I'm thinking of converting to Medium Base E26 socket so all the LED smarts is in an ordinary replaceable bulb and it's not a problem to repair every few years. Just change the bulb.
@@virgilbanowetz4941 How do you do that?
This looks entirely doable. However can anyone justify NOT replacing the controller and LED with a Medium Base E26 Socket so future updates could be as simple and cheap as replacing the LED bulb?
The 3 small screws holding the reflector stripped instantaneously upon trying to unscrew, even being careful and trying different Phillips head sizing. All in garbage now.
Ricardo, I need the LED light not the power supply do you know where I can get that part?
Derek, perhaps LED Supply has a LED that you could match up to your driver. There's also EBay. Be sure to check all the voltage and current parameters (in this case you need match the LED with your driver). Let me know what you come up with.
@@rickmorenojr Did you ever find the replacement LED? I tested my Power supply and its good. I just need a new LED disc.
Ricardo, Thanks for your helpful video's. I have 2 of these Costco Altair LED Lanterns. We recently had a power outage and I saw that one of them blew out. Do you think I would just have to replace the power supply - or all of the actual LED's? I'm sorry if this is an obvious answer - but i am a complete novice. Thanks
Just completed this repair. Not all the leds work, also this heat sink runs hotter to the touch than the other 2 lanterns we have. This is all normal?
No. First, did you simply buy the same driver? Not all LED lights use the same driver. This video was a follow-up from my first video. Watch that video first!!! You must match the driver's voltage range and wattage/mA. Failure to do so may burn up your LED array.
Thanks!
One of my lanterns were out and found this video to replace the driver. Light was still not working and come to find out it’s the LED ring that I need to replace. Anyone know where I am able to find the LED replacements?
Any intel on where to source the LED ring assemblies?
Thanks for the video
Where were you able to get the new drivers. The lighting place I call says I have to buy a new fixture as they aren’t available I need output 6-10v 700ma load 6-9 watt led in series led d35-2 input 120v 60hz
replace Leds with a bulb socket?
do you have a videomfor that?
I was trying to keep the original look of my LED lights. So no, I don't have a video on gutting out the lantern and installing a socket for a LED bulb. But that sounds like an interesting project for the future.
Name of the company and email where you purchase the parts please
ruclips.net/video/de9pA0WyFe8/видео.html
What if you do use the photocell than do you connect the red and brown wire together?
Watch where they are connected on your lantern before you disconnect them and then you reconnect them to wires they were originally connected too.
how about just replscing the led lamp, will that work?
Replacing the lamp, do you mean the entire lantern assembly? Since I bought three that match, I wanted to keep a matching set. Now if you are referring to the little LED array, sure you could replace the array with on that has a built-in driver or buy a LED array with a matching constant current driver. However, you risk getting a light that has different lumens (brightness) or kelvins (color).
Have 2 of these, and both lanterns stopped working about 2 weeks ago as well!
Wanted the dimming function, so I bought the "PCD Series Mean Well 16~25W CC LED Drivers with Triac dimming. Wattage: 16W. Output Current: 350mA". This driver is compatible with this lantern, and regular household dimmers (Triac dimming). The dimming works reasonably well!
LEDSupply has fast shipping! Ordered Thursday, delivered Monday!
www.ledsupply.com/led-drivers/mean-well-pcd-series-with-triac-dimming
where can I get the led bulbs?
First off, I'm not electronically inclined, just enough to be dangerous. He's my situation with these Costco Lights: I have 3 of these units. One started blinking. Before thinking it was the Driver, I removed the (Fickering) Round LED Reflector and installed it on one of the good operating Lanterns and ... no dice. I took what was a good Round LED Reflector and installed it on the bad or flickering unit and bingo, it worked fine. So to me the Drivers are all working fine but I have a faulty LED Chip/mechanism (mounted to the Reflector Plate). Can I simply (where?) buy a replacement LED Chip compatible with this unit that already has the connector and wires fused to the chip and or plate? How to figure that out?
That is an excellent question. Perhaps LED Supply has a LED and driver set that you can purchase. There's also EBay. Hopefully you can match the color, lumens ,or wattage, as the other two. Let me know what you come up with.
I am dealing with the same situation...did you find the 8 led light chip needed here? Where? Cost?
same deal here 2 of the 4 lights I have are blinking everytime it gets cold outside. any answers?
When the lamp just keeeps flashing is it be small led light and not the conductor?
Flashing indicates it is the controller bad. Some dead light and one good one indicates LED is bad.
@@virgilbanowetz4941 I have 3 of these running off the same switch. 1 of em just constantly strobes. I disconnected it. Another out of the 3 recently started strobing, but all the sudden started working fine again. I have no dimmer switch. I have no idea what the issue is.
@@floydclark6710 Your controller is bad causing the flashing. You can try buying a matching controller to the LED circuit. Good luck with that! I recommend you get a simple socket and a common screw-in LED bulb that matches the color of the other lights in the area.
Thank you regards
I have these exact integrated LED lights all around my house. 3 of them, all connected to the same switch... A couple months ago, 1 started strobing. I disconnected it. A couple weeks ago, another 1 out of those 3 started strobing, but all the sudden is working correctly again. I have no dimmer switch. Anyone have any idea what the issue could be?
Your driver has a range of voltages that it can operate with a maximum wattage. If the temperature change is great enough, you may be exceeding the capability of the driver. This causes the strobing. Or your driver is near its end of life.
Where I can fiind the Porch Lantern? Please? TY.
Originally, they were available at Costco and Amazon. But other than Ebay, I don't think you can find this model anymore.
How to convert an led exterior light to a led light bulb
Where would the photo cell wires connect?
If you want to keep your photo cell operational, be sure to wire it back as original.
Wire it in series to one leg of power to leds. Its just an inline switch.
nice video, need to give the part number and place to order the driver, thanks
The part number for the old driver and replacement driver are in the show notes. I purchased a Mean Well APC-16-350.
Thank you !
Honestly though, what a damn pain in the ass if you have to remove the entire light from your home and unscrew 5 different things, strip wires, buy a new driver and swap it...
Like how does this even save energy or money or time. I have this same light and after 3 years I have to do all this instead of just change a bulb. Im livid enough to just return the whole damn thing to Costco so they never sell this burden ass product ever again.
Not sure if Costco even sells this particular light anymore. For those of us that want to keep the light, this video suggest some repair options. Not sure about time, but LED lights generally use less power than a traditional bulb. So, I guess that's how it can save you money. Repairing it just might make the ROI a little longer.
@@rickmorenojr Costco gives full cash refunds for any product that's not "electronics". I don't need the same light I just need A light.
I'd rather get refunded and hope Costco learns a lesson on not selling cheap garbage anymore, hopefully they cut ties with this company
@@rickmorenojr $15 for a driver just to save 6 cents a month in electricity....
Forget this light.
The carbon footprint to even make the driver is huge compared to making an energy wasting lightbulb
Im with you. Don't understand why they dont just put a bulb socket and use an LED bulb. Same efficiency and far less hassle. I bet a lot of these get thrown away, so there goes lower carbon footprint. It makes for a disposable light instead of making something that lasts 30 years and gets replaced for aesthetics.
Wish I knew this crap before I bought these f-Ing lights.
Thanks
Lightbulbs were ALOT easier!
Just sayin...
It's been about five or six years since I've repaired my lights. They're still working great. Plus, LED lights use less power than standard bulbs. Easier doesn't always mean better.
Worked. thx!
5 out of 5 started malfunctioning. horrible design and quality control.
I'll like to buy one, if you still have them...
So, I should just buy 2 drivers lol. Since these aren't built to last.
Unfortunately, I purchase a replacement driver for each light. So, I purchased three. My last light just starting blinking on me. I'm hoping that the new driver is more robust than the OEM.
OMG this is so complicated I just might buy some new lights!!
Actually this is simple. Two wires in, two wires out. Simple. Complicated is driving a Ford model T. Darn, I wish I had a link to that video showing how this was done. The three foot pedals are used to switch gears, throttle was the right lever/stock next to the steering wheel, timing(?) was on the left lever/stock, and lastly you had the hand brake which you also used to shift gears (move hand brake, press foot pedal). Wow, I'm glad that cars are as complicated.
What state do you live? I can buy the lamp from you... missing 1
Order led drivers from digikey electronics in USA Prices are very good and very reasonable flat rate shipping fee to Canada. Couldn’t be happier👍
These lights are a pain in the ass no one sells them that don’t last! Not to mention they are complicated
Well, they're no more complicated than ordinary incandescent bulbs to connect to your house. They're just a little more complicated to fix. After I've fixed mine, they've been trouble free ever since.
@@rickmorenojr I purchased my house last year and they have these type of light. I can’t find them in any hardware store. I can’t find them anywhere . One of the lights has a serious Dimming issue it’s pretty much out…. They were supposed to last for 30 years yeah right
Nearly all wire nut manufacturers recommend a different method for connecting wires than twisting the wires together prior to using the nut.
Excellent, and that would be?
So are you keeping the different method a secret?