I had to smile about the engineer comment. I was that engineer who couldn't understand the machine shop constantly asking if I really wanted it that size? It was during a previous life when I was designing wire and slick line equipment here in Aberdeen Scotland. Admittedly it was half a lifetime ago so I think I may have learned a bit since that time. Thanks for the pointer from the machinists point of view - and the memory.
I've contributed to the final part from both the shop floor and the keyboard, so I feel qualified to make that comment. CNC machines are a different animal, but manual machinists need tips like this to keep them sane. I also taught a course on design for manufacturability to University of Texas engineering students. I was amazed at what they didn't know. So were they. It always went very well. Thanks for the comment.
At last someone succeeded in explaining me in a comprehensive way why I had to learn all that trigonometry back in highschool allmost 35 years ago. Thanks and greetings from Belgium.
Oh that was very clever indeed. To quote a New Zealand saying, “you really do know your onions!” I am super impressed. The only thing wrong with the whole approach is that I did not think of it..Bravo! Not only that but exactly the same trick will work with my mill. Double winner! Thanks Joe.
Stumbled on this video on 12th July 2023 just in time for making accurate angles on mating parts. Thank you, Joe for all of the incredibly clear advice you've given for so many of us over the years. Long may it continue!
Hi, allow me to say that you are the ONLY one that makes videos where someone thinks: "...exactly this I wanted to know for years". thanks for sharing your knowledge. The day that you will come to Florence let me know, I will show you my city and we take REAL Italian coffe ;-) Take care and stay save
That's great. Personally I'm a CNC guy. But watching these videos in you channel helps me on the manual lathe and mill for small projects around my shop. Keep them up. They are very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to show it step by step. You are a great teacher. Two thumbs up!!!!
Hi Joe, your content is a little advanced for me at this point. It took me a whole weekend to machine 8 levelling feet for my lathe my first lathe so small steps. However even being a novice your presentation was done in such a normal way without you needing to pull out the technical terms and language that for us novices make you sound like a brain surgeon and goes straight over the top of our heads, you have a way of conveying a circumstance that is understandable to many, thank you. Your clearly putting it out with a genuine desire to help not to stroke your own ego.
Beautiful. I LOVE it when practical trig shows up. I still believe most kids would get trig if they had a lathe and a mill to work with. AND a good, clear, teacher like you. Thank you!
I love this one Joe! The way you break things down helps so much. I find I was over thinking this issue and your explanation on the board and then in the shop got me on track. God Bless you bud. I agree with the vast majority of your subscribers that your an excellent teacher and I feel personally blessed to have found you. I'm 46 starting again since being disabled and you truly inspire me. The classes I'm taking plus all the other videos have left me more confused. I understand you better than anyone and I really thank you for what your doing. I'm proud to call you one of my instructors. Tim Ditmore Matrix Gunsmithing Lake George, CO.
Another piece of simple trigonometry. No expensive sine bar, no even more expensive gauge blocks. Thank you! I learned trig a million years ago in a third world school. I had the world's worst math teacher. So I found the Barnes&Noble College Outline Series on trig and taught myself. Then I taught my buddies and that cemented it in my mind. Trigonometry is the machinist's best friend. Nowadays there are online aids to learning it, such as the Kahn academy, and whether you use a book or online, every machinist should learn it. At least the rudiments. It is not necessary to learn the identities -- just how to solve a right triangle.
I'm ashamed to admit this, but I'm still going to... I did not know this method. It's so simple! To those people who are having trouble grasping it, watching the video while standing in front of the lathe is a good suggestion that someone else mentioned. Thank you, Joe!
Joe, I used this technique last night in order to set my compound cut an precise 8-degree taper for an ER11 collet cavity for a holder I made. Worked like a charm! Here I thought I would need to go and buy a sine bar to do this but with a little math and your technique I saved some much needed dough! Much Thanks and keep up the videos. This is priceless knowledge that you are choosing to share and I greatly appreciate it.
Gee Joe, it is with great interest that I watch you channel. Even though I won’t ever need this information, for this ‘ol maintenance engineer I certainly do admire you and your approach/application to a situation such as this. 👍
My biggest thank you for this video. I was in need of a morse taper 4.5 sleeve to fit a drawbar in my 1924 Oscar Ehrlich lathe, and with the help of your outstanding explanation I've just turned a perfect taper. Took me 15 minutes to dial in the compound slide, and now have a perfect fit MT4.5 sleeve.
Hi Joe, thank you so much for your videos. As a 65 year old I regret never taking any trigonometry classes. You break it down and make everything seem so simple
I really appreciate the rigor of your methods. Assuming the least, getting the precision measuring instrument as close to the parameter you are controlling as possible. Saves a lot of frustration, and a similar trick can be used in many situations.
Its great joe,in the beginning it was a little difficult, but as i stand by my lathe and repeat what you explained,suddenly it become clear to me. Thanks a lot for your time , and i hope you will go on to help us.Again Thanks Hans, from Holland
Joe, I am not a machinist but I love watching this type content. I want to thank you for taking the time to create these videos explaining not only the how but the why. You have the heart of a teacher and the ability to convey in understandable terms the concepts and techniques involved. Michael
I was a carpenter for 35 years back when we use to cut roofs, before premade trusses. (roofs are all angles). This is exactly how i use to figure angles/lengths,rises, diagonals . If you buy a construction master calculator, which i used for years, this will all be extremely simplified. On the calculator there are three keys called run, rise and diagonal (the three parts of a triangle). You can enter as fractions 1-1/4, or decimals 1.25, or metric 31.75 or whatever. The amount of weird angles on all the different pitched roofs with hips and gables and interrupted angles and so on are endless. Greatest tool ever invented for us dumb carpenters.
Some of these shop calculators require the user to convert the minutes to a decimal before they can proceed. 31 degrees 22 minutes is not 31.22 degrees. I've seen some of these lead guys down the wrong path and confuse them more than help them, but if you are used to using them, I'm sure they are a real time saver. I'll stick with my book. 40 year comfort zone.
Trig is always the answer... what an eye opener this info was when I began machining. It all started by asking what a Sine plate was for... Then the explanation, then Jo blocks, then confusion, then a million tests and now I use trig all the time. Thanks for the info.
Joe, I realize you did this video in 2016 but I just wanted to let you know how much help you've been to me while doing things at my work that I've learned from you. I'm very much a novice when it comes to machining but I'm just good enough to make things work the way I need them with the help from your videos and a few others. Thankyou again for all the great videos Joe you really help guys out like me a HUGE AMOUNT.
I have been toying with the idea of single point cutting a rifle chamber using the info provided in these conical feature videos, leaving just a few thousands for the reamer to clean providing a perfectly concentric bore. I am not pioneering this processes, I just wouldn't have the confidence without you. Thanks Joe
I've been trying to get a 1.4 degree taper on a hardwood sprue using an old Lesto Scintilla with a removable cross slide, very tricky, but your method produced results on the 2nd attempt. After sanding smooth and a sawdust polish, the taper was measured at 1.409 degrees. Thanks for the time to make this video, its much appreciated.
I'm coming to this video about 7yrs too late but you're a great teacher. In ten minutes you've explained what it took my maths teacher several weeks to explain to a disinterested teenager 😂 When you add a bit of relevance trigonometry suddenly becomes interesting.
Excellent series! Your practical tips are gold for a hobby machinist like myself with just a couple machines in my garage and no professional experience.
This was way over my head , but I enjoyed watching it , I can tell you know what your talking about, Loved your video on threading away from the chuck. I haven't ran a manual lathe in 30 years but I'm about to retire and I'm going to buy one just to play with. I will watch all your videos for a refresher coarse .
This is especially useful when trying to mate components machined previously. In the past I have had to make sure I did not disturb the compound slide setting between machining components which can be a nuisance when the operations do not follow each other. Keep up the good work, much appreciated.
This worked perfect to set 7.125 degrees to open up the taper on my D1-4 backplate. Thanks Joe, as a hobby machinist I have learned a lot from your videos. It took me ~10 times to get less than .001" error on the cross slide measurement, but I did get it. Then checked how true the angle was by checking with a .0005" test indicator along the original taper. Zero dial movement.
I got a Hardinge lathe and made my own cross slide and compound so I had no graduated marks for the angle and needed to cut a backing plate for a chuck with the Hardinge 4 degree taper. I failed three times trying to use protectors and digital angle fingers and a few other items to double check the angle. I had one that would work but wasn't true. Only hit at the very back of the spindle nose taper. I just got done setting up using this method and I believe it's going to work great. Thanks for all the knowledge you are giving away and keep up the good work.
I had some jobs come in once that had like that out to 3 decimal places. I managed to cut them and set up a sine bar to check them with and they were right on. A few days later the engineer came back and wanted them recut to a different angle. I told him I'd never had a print before with such precise angles called for. Turns out that they were just experimental angles on a prototype and were drawn on a computer which had put in all the decimal places. I had cut them on a cnc. The next ones I just did on a manual lathe using the numbers on the compound and they worked fine for him. Yeah, engineers mostly seem to have no idea what goes into making parts to some of their prints. Ok, enough of that rant. I never would have thought to do an angle with the method you've shown. Thank you very much and keep them coming.
The best video I've ever seen explaining how to get tight angles. Man whoever said I'd never use High School math in life lied to me. I use it all the time. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Joe for the trig refresher. Even better, you demonstrated its application on the lathe. That tip is a gem for setting the compound. Thanks again.
Great lesson on how to apply trigonometry to the cross slide and the compound using the graduated dials. This video was a breath of fresh air!!!!! Thank you.
Thanks Joe for another excellent tips video. I am sure i speak for many people in that we greatly appreciate these, there are few places this sort of information can easily be found - especially for us home shop machinists that have not had formal training. Keep them coming :)
Thank you, Joe. I'm making an ER32 collet holder for a D1-4 spindle and this tip allowed me to cut the angle in the holder that mates to the lathe spindle. Thanks again
You earned another subscriber! All your methods seem to be very, very good. I appreciate that you spend so much time explaining these so that anyone can do it. Thanks!
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and publishing the videos! I am just a bloody newbie and your videos have helped me immensely. Your videos are clear, concise and very well presented without any annoying babbling. Basically, you taught me via youtube. Thank you! Bernhard
Oh my - so simple when you know how! so many thanks Joe for passing on this invaluable knowledge - Going to try this on my 70 year old Myford ML7 Also thinking of trying to make some angle gauges, we will see. Again many thanks and best wishes to you and you family.
Hey Joe, good stuff. I really appreciate your videos like this one. You present well and it is refreshing to see tips from someone with current, relevant practical experience on RUclips (in contrast to so many sloppy home-shop guys like myself). I practiced with this technique and was able to hit my chosen test taper spot on. Thanks!
Hi Joe, I'm new to your videos, I'm self taught what I know about machining and your informational videos are excellent, this last compound angle video is one awesome idea, just what I needed to cut some morse angles. What I want to say about figuring angles is get that construction master calculator and with the run/ rise/pitch/diagonal functions you can figure those angles so fast and easy without getting into fancy geometry stuff. Thanks again for making life easier when cutting precise angles.
This is some good stuff... I've used gage blocks and indicators before to trig out the angle, but never once did I thought to use the tailstock as a reference. This is gold for me. Thanks Joe!
Check the tailstock and stay near center and your angles will be incredibly accurate. Be sure your tool height is equally adjusted to center for the best accuracy.
Retired now, I worked for many years in Jig Boring shops. Just about every job that came across my desk involved tolerances in tenths of a thousandth. Angles usually were no exception. We came up with a method using the side of the compound to set the angle with an indicator in the spindle. First set the compound angle as close as possible to start with using the graduations. Then consider the side of the compound as the triangle's hypotenuse, pick an even number like 3" or 4" for the side, then calculate the other two sides of the triangle for the desired angle. set the indicator to zero just touching the compound. Use the lathe readout for the distances in the X (cross slide) and Y (long travel) axis to set the opposite and adjacent sides of the triangle. You will need to double the X cross slide number as it reads in diameter! Just as with Joe's method, it's possible to set angles within seconds of arc!
Joe, thank you. I’m a self taught amateur hobby machinist. I’ve used any of your techniques building engines that actually run. The angle technique on the compound slide is especially useful. I’d never get angles correct otherwise. John
And my trig students in school did not think there was any value to learning the functions and their application. I am now retired but If I was still teaching, your video would be my teaching tool.
Hi from New Zealand Joe. I've just binge watched your entire channel and subscribed. You have fantastic technical info and new techniques I haven't seen before. Hope you can make more videos for us. Don't worry too much about camera angles / steadiness and production values etc if this will put you off putting out videos. Your content is high quality and speaks for itself. Cheers Tim
Great video. I love it. When I need that kind of accuracy I usually indicate along a sinebar. Very precise also and rules out leadcrew inaccuracies. Works in milling machine too.
I use the same technique plus to make it easier to set the target angle. I clamp a 1m strip of wood across the bed at right angles. The wood is located to the right of the tail stock. The wood sticks out the front of the lathe. I then clamp a 1.4m length of square section steel onto the side of the top slide. The end of the steel rests on the wood, but is not clamped or attached to it. I now make a first attempt to adjust the angle of the top slide using Joe's method. I mark where the steel now rests on the wood by using the steel like a ruler to mark a line. After each adjustment to set the target angle, I mark a new line on the wood. This gives me a history of angle setting attempts. It is also MUCH easier to make very fine angle adjustments at the far end of the steel than at the top slide. It takes longer to explain than it does to do. It speeds up setting the angle to fine tolerances.
Love your videos. Trig Math is easy for me, but I have never thought about using it for setting machines up. I have always focused on using 'traditional' methods. Well done (Chris - New Zealand)
Thanks guy! I'm a home hobbyist and I got an RFQ that included an inside taper at 10.62*. I wasn't sure I could even quote the job 10 mins ago. Cheers!!
Joe, that was amazing, thanks. I always put a sine bar against the tailstock and turn cpmpound until I got 0-0 on the indicator, this is much better! after 45 years I spent in toolroom and job shop, you amaze me!
Thanks a million I tried this and got to within .0005 on the dial indicator of a 30 degree angle repeatably several times, tightened the gibs a wee bit and was finally able to get it to go to zero every time. My lathe reads 60 where others read 30. And yes in response the the comment below I did sweep the quill of the tail stock and it is dead on from one end to the other. Again thanks a million. Worth
Nice one glad I'm not the only one who think that about the odd engineer. Very timely for me as I had been considering the very problem. Thanks for your time and passing on the knowledge.
Very clever approach. Just be aware that its accuracy relies on your tailstock quill surface alignment with the spindle rotation axis. Any wearings or dents on the quill surface might set your taper off.
Am I ignorant to think that this approach to cutting an angle doesn't rely on any alignment other than accurate measurements? I'm new to machining. How precisely can a 90 be measured. And if the 90 is true, you can make any angle right?
Hi Joe, put your method into practice and replicated your figures however, two important points 1. had to convert to decimal degrees, (No printed trig book handy) 2. Tail stock must be precisely inline with Lathe center line. then it worked like a charm. Worked amazingly as you indicated used your method for the expanding arbor Nut. Thank you again.
Wow. I am really loving your teaching methods. Great vids. I just got a 7x10in mini lathe to start working with, cause that's all my wife would let me get. I one day I'd love to have a big boy lathe and a shop of my own. Please keep the lessons coming. Thank you.
Thats brilliant, super clear and simple :). A couple of comments about possible inaccuracy of the tailstock. If youre working on an old beater with known issues with the tailstock, of even if there is no tailstock, you could chuck up a piece of scrap and cut a couple of collars of equal diameter over the distance you need, then measure out youre triangle in the same way. That way youre relating to directly to the spindle. Cheers Joe, ill be needing to do this sometime soon.
I spend a lot of time using trig (soh cah toa) for mill work. That is one great tip for lathe work!! Sure beats the eye loop! Thank you for passing on your knowledge.
Another useful video thank you for that. During the Coronavirus I have been in machine shop 101 using your videos as my guide. You a a great teacher. I have been making tools. Fly cutters, vise stops on and on. My problem is that I saw an adjustable stop that bolts onto the back of a Kurt vice that you have made. I want to make one but I need to see it again for some of the fine details. My problem is that I cannot find it again! I do not remember the topic of the video it was in. I have been searching for a couple days through your videos with no luck. I would appreciate very much if you could point me to the video where you show it. I'm 64 years old like a kid in a candy shop, this is fun! Thank you for what you do. From chilly Michigan.
Pure genius, instead of dreading trying to cut an accurate angle I look forward to trying. I have to make some grinder hubs with internal tapers so will use this method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe, I'll make sure I pay careful attention to the tool height. Just to let you know I used the technique you demonstrated for turning very thin walled components to make a 10 thou thick acetel spacer that was missing from the seal set of a 30 ton press we bought cheap as it was leaking hydraulic fluid. The OEM part was only available as part of the full seal kit which was very, very expensive. So, thanks again. It just shows how useful sharing knowledge is.
Joe...not trying to be a Butt, however, this is High School Geometry Class ! Sine, Cosine, Tangent, etc. Tool manuals give those calculations. What YOU have shown us is HOW TO USE THAT GEOMETRY ! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU ! i knew it was Geometry, but did not know HOW to turn it into practical use ! I bought a WEN Aluminum Protractor and STILL you cannot read the lines close enough. You technique EXPANDS the numbers out for old, half blind people like me !
Nice one Joe! I was looking, because I need to do an outside tapered bushing for a project. My dimensions are much less critical, but the measurement quite simple! Tested in a mini lathe on bronze for practice, then did a full 304 SS version. Wonderful. Now, just have to cut threads.
I'm an engineer and this is why engineering students need to spend all their free time in the machine shop. That 44 minutes on the degree just cost the company 20 minutes in additional set up time, and potentially a lot of scrap for less capable machinists. My other pet peeve is engineers tolerancing everything to +/- .001" because they can't / won't do a tolerance study or don't understand fitments. I'm getting off my soap box now.
Amen brother! Ive told numerous engineers that they should come out in the shop and attempt to do what they ask. Its not an easy thing to do on an engine lathe. I recently had to cut a 7.2 degree angle on a mandrel on a manual lathe and I made the engineer come out and see my setup so he could realize how difficult that can be.
Yes, as a journeyman machinist of 40 years myself, I couldn't agree more with you. Adding a fourth zero to the right of the decimal point takes everything to a whole never level of stress for the machinist.
You can also use the same technique on the milling machine using the ball on your clock as a sine bar. This can be used for setting a given angle on a dividing head with a straight bar in the jaws and again using the ball on the clock has a sine bar. I’ve also machined many parts for all types of aircraft with tight tolerances on angles and none have come back rejected. Keep up the good work.
That was an impressive trig lesson. I really do like this answer to a simple problem. I really like this approach over what I see a lot, what uses a "close enough" approach. Depending on the job I'm running, some of them it's "as long as it fits the box" others it's "get it as close as humanly possible... then get it closer" so the math approach is appreciated. the old slogan "If the numbers are good, the result will be good" comes to mind.
We need more like him, with experiance and history to teach our youth. Because those who have potential will instantly understand what he is talking about and soak up the knowlege. And i'm not talking about machinist class, i talking about math class
Very nice! This is similar to what I do, only I use a parallel on the compound set to be inline with the centerline of the lathe. This is a faster method for sure. One issue people should be aware of. This assumes the barrel on your tail stock is inline with the ways, and is free of defects at the contact points. This is a bad assumption on an import. You should verify the barrel on your tail stock is in proper alignment. You would want to fix this in any case. You can still correct for the error though. affix a sharpie to the compound inplace of the test indicator. Touch the barrel with the sharpie at the compounds 0 mark, and again at the compounds 3" mark. Sweep the barrel with a test indicator from mark to mark and record the error. This error is a constant and can be added or subtracted from how far you crank in the cross slide. Make a drawing and you will be able to see where to add or subtract.
Watching this in prep for cutting a Jacobs E Taper for some chucks I have in my parts bin - I was originally planing to try this between centers on a test bar instead of with the tailstock since i have demonstrable problems on the barrel.
THIS. If your lathe has any errors, it will be translated into the workpiece. This is where the trainee differs from the master. The master understands and compensates for this kind of errors. You could also just use a machined rod in the lathe as a reference, and all errors in the setup would cancel.
Looks good Joe! You did also mention you'd show us how we'd check it if you were the inspector. I'm keen to see you get out some steel balls to check angle and depths!
I was doing this trick the other day, but used a piece of straight stock (I had just machined it) in the lathe chuck to set up the triangle. Same idea, different side. Thanks for confirming I was using a REAL machinist's trick Joe! PS, I need to use your tailstock idea for confirming the alignment of my mini lathe tailstock at home too.
Absolutely Enlightening. Forgot to commend and Thank YOU most graciously for Showing Sharing and teaching us these innovative practical gems that are worth their Weight in GOLD. We can't BUY this. Thanks a zillion Cap'n. May Your SHADOW ALWAYS STAY LONG !!! aRM
What an elegant solution! I want to make an ER collet chuck. This procedure should help me accurately set my compound to the 8 degrees required for the collet taper. Thanks.
This is a very simple and accurate method. I’ve used this many times. The only thing that would make it easier, is to put the indicator directly inline on the X axis with the compound pivot and slide the compound the other direction. When adjusting the compound angle the first reading barely moves while the second reading does all of the changing. This also works on supplemental angles against the chuck face. Just use your Z axis DRO or an indicator to position your carriage.
I just watched a few of your videos till now but I learned something in each one. You're showing great stuff! Thanks! The way I did this was more complicated and I hope to decrease setup time for future tapers.
I am begging to realise that triangles are my best friend. What a simple technique and acurate too. I would like to see your mag clock holder in some more detail. I haven't seen one like that before and it looks pretty versitile. Everyone seems Noga mad on YT but your job looks like a cool alternative! Great, to the point video. (BTW - Sent by Chuck Bom' )
Chuck is a good man. He did that short screw video without my knowledge. What a great surprise. It has really helped the subscriptions grow. Pass the word. Thanks for the comment.
Another fantastic video by if I may " Joe " , Always a great and informative master of description, process and understandable direction. Joe you are what Yoda is to Luke. THANKS MAN im thank full for your expertise and willingness to share. From an appreciative old hobbyist .
I had to smile about the engineer comment. I was that engineer who couldn't understand the machine shop constantly asking if I really wanted it that size? It was during a previous life when I was designing wire and slick line equipment here in Aberdeen Scotland. Admittedly it was half a lifetime ago so I think I may have learned a bit since that time. Thanks for the pointer from the machinists point of view - and the memory.
I've contributed to the final part from both the shop floor and the keyboard, so I feel qualified to make that comment. CNC machines are a different animal, but manual machinists need tips like this to keep them sane. I also taught a course on design for manufacturability to University of Texas engineering students. I was amazed at what they didn't know. So were they. It always went very well. Thanks for the comment.
we are so lucky to have you on RUclips, a lifetime of knowledge in a few hours , thanks a million
At last someone succeeded in explaining me in a comprehensive way why I had to learn all that trigonometry back in highschool allmost 35 years ago. Thanks and greetings from Belgium.
Oh that was very clever indeed. To quote a New Zealand saying, “you really do know your onions!” I am super impressed. The only thing wrong with the whole approach is that I did not think of it..Bravo! Not only that but exactly the same trick will work with my mill. Double winner! Thanks Joe.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Stumbled on this video on 12th July 2023 just in time for making accurate angles on mating parts.
Thank you, Joe for all of the incredibly clear advice you've given for so many of us over the years.
Long may it continue!
Glad it was helpful!
Hi, allow me to say that you are the ONLY one that makes videos where someone thinks: "...exactly this I wanted to know for years". thanks for sharing your knowledge. The day that you will come to Florence let me know, I will show you my city and we take REAL Italian coffe ;-)
Take care and stay save
That's great. Personally I'm a CNC guy. But watching these videos in you channel helps me on the manual lathe and mill for small projects around my shop. Keep them up. They are very helpful. Thank you for taking the time to show it step by step. You are a great teacher. Two thumbs up!!!!
Thank you.
Hi Joe, your content is a little advanced for me at this point. It took me a whole weekend to machine 8 levelling feet for my lathe my first lathe so small steps. However even being a novice your presentation was done in such a normal way without you needing to pull out the technical terms and language that for us novices make you sound like a brain surgeon and goes straight over the top of our heads, you have a way of conveying a circumstance that is understandable to many, thank you. Your clearly putting it out with a genuine desire to help not to stroke your own ego.
Show and tell channels are fine, but I really try to leave my viewers with something to take away, think about or expand on. Thanks for the comment.
Beautiful. I LOVE it when practical trig shows up. I still believe most kids would get trig if they had a lathe and a mill to work with. AND a good, clear, teacher like you. Thank you!
Thanks for the comment. This trade pretty much demands a base understanding of trig. Its like any other tool in the box.
I love this one Joe! The way you break things down helps so much. I find I was over thinking this issue and your explanation on the board and then in the shop got me on track. God Bless you bud. I agree with the vast majority of your subscribers that your an excellent teacher and I feel personally blessed to have found you. I'm 46 starting again since being disabled and you truly inspire me. The classes I'm taking plus all the other videos have left me more confused. I understand you better than anyone and I really thank you for what your doing. I'm proud to call you one of my instructors.
Tim Ditmore
Matrix Gunsmithing
Lake George, CO.
Thank you very much. Glad to help.
Another piece of simple trigonometry. No expensive sine bar, no even more expensive gauge blocks. Thank you! I learned trig a million years ago in a third world school. I had the world's worst math teacher. So I found the Barnes&Noble College Outline Series on trig and taught myself. Then I taught my buddies and that cemented it in my mind. Trigonometry is the machinist's best friend. Nowadays there are online aids to learning it, such as the Kahn academy, and whether you use a book or online, every machinist should learn it. At least the rudiments. It is not necessary to learn the identities -- just how to solve a right triangle.
I agree 100%. Basic geometry skills are also a good compliment to this. Thanks for watching Juan.
I'm ashamed to admit this, but I'm still going to... I did not know this method. It's so simple!
To those people who are having trouble grasping it, watching the video while standing in front of the lathe is a good suggestion that someone else mentioned.
Thank you, Joe!
Joe, I used this technique last night in order to set my compound cut an precise 8-degree taper for an ER11 collet cavity for a holder I made. Worked like a charm! Here I thought I would need to go and buy a sine bar to do this but with a little math and your technique I saved some much needed dough! Much Thanks and keep up the videos. This is priceless knowledge that you are choosing to share and I greatly appreciate it.
Gee Joe, it is with great interest that I watch you channel. Even though I won’t ever need this information, for this ‘ol maintenance engineer I certainly do admire you and your approach/application to a situation such as this. 👍
My biggest thank you for this video.
I was in need of a morse taper 4.5 sleeve to fit a drawbar in my 1924 Oscar Ehrlich lathe, and with the help of your outstanding explanation I've just turned a perfect taper.
Took me 15 minutes to dial in the compound slide, and now have a perfect fit MT4.5 sleeve.
Glad it helped. Its very accurate.
Hi Joe, thank you so much for your videos. As a 65 year old I regret never taking any trigonometry classes. You break it down and make everything seem so simple
I really appreciate the rigor of your methods. Assuming the least, getting the precision measuring instrument as close to the parameter you are controlling as possible. Saves a lot of frustration, and a similar trick can be used in many situations.
Its great joe,in the beginning it was a little difficult, but as i stand by my lathe and repeat what you explained,suddenly it become clear to me.
Thanks a lot for your time , and i hope you will go on to help us.Again Thanks
Hans, from Holland
You are awesome . i have been working with Lathe almost 25 years , and still learn everyday .
all I can say that you are the best .
Joe, I am not a machinist but I love watching this type content. I want to thank you for taking the time to create these videos explaining not only the how but the why. You have the heart of a teacher and the ability to convey in understandable terms the concepts and techniques involved.
Michael
I appreciate the compliment Michael, Thank you.
I was a carpenter for 35 years back when we use to cut roofs, before premade trusses. (roofs are all angles). This is exactly how i use to figure angles/lengths,rises, diagonals . If you buy a construction master calculator, which i used for years, this will all be extremely simplified. On the calculator there are three keys called run, rise and diagonal (the three parts of a triangle). You can enter as fractions 1-1/4, or decimals 1.25, or metric 31.75 or whatever. The amount of weird angles on all the different pitched roofs with hips and gables and interrupted angles and so on are endless. Greatest tool ever invented for us dumb carpenters.
Some of these shop calculators require the user to convert the minutes to a decimal before they can proceed. 31 degrees 22 minutes is not 31.22 degrees. I've seen some of these lead guys down the wrong path and confuse them more than help them, but if you are used to using them, I'm sure they are a real time saver. I'll stick with my book. 40 year comfort zone.
this one trick is worth trillions of hours of work. thank you so much
Trig is always the answer... what an eye opener this info was when I began machining. It all started by asking what a Sine plate was for... Then the explanation, then Jo blocks, then confusion, then a million tests and now I use trig all the time. Thanks for the info.
Joe, I realize you did this video in 2016 but I just wanted to let you know how much help you've been to me while doing things at my work that I've learned from you. I'm very much a novice when it comes to machining but I'm just good enough to make things work the way I need them with the help from your videos and a few others. Thankyou again for all the great videos Joe you really help guys out like me a HUGE AMOUNT.
Excellent to hear. Thank you for the compliment and your trust.
I just used this technique today to cut an internal taper with a 3 decimal precision callout! Thanks Joe.
I have been toying with the idea of single point cutting a rifle chamber using the info provided in these conical feature videos, leaving just a few thousands for the reamer to clean providing a perfectly concentric bore. I am not pioneering this processes, I just wouldn't have the confidence without you. Thanks Joe
Thanks for the positive feedback. I am glad to help you guys.
Joe I am a hobby lathe operator. S.B. 9". Your RUclips videos are fantastic. I have utilized several of your ideas. Thank you so much.
Thanks for watching.
I've been trying to get a 1.4 degree taper on a hardwood sprue using an old Lesto Scintilla with a removable cross slide, very tricky, but your method produced results on the 2nd attempt. After sanding smooth and a sawdust polish, the taper was measured at 1.409 degrees.
Thanks for the time to make this video, its much appreciated.
Thank you for your confidence to give it a try. The method can yield some amazing results on a manual machine.
I'm coming to this video about 7yrs too late but you're a great teacher.
In ten minutes you've explained what it took my maths teacher several weeks to explain to a disinterested teenager 😂
When you add a bit of relevance trigonometry suddenly becomes interesting.
I think that aspect of education is really lacking. Show me how to use something you're teaching and it will sink in deeper and faster.
Excellent series! Your practical tips are gold for a hobby machinist like myself with just a couple machines in my garage and no professional experience.
This was way over my head , but I enjoyed watching it , I can tell you know what your talking about, Loved your video on threading away from the chuck. I haven't ran a manual lathe in 30 years but I'm about to retire and I'm going to buy one just to play with. I will watch all your videos for a refresher coarse .
Thank you.
Great tutorial Joe, I have watched it three times and appreciate you sharing you knowledge. all the best from the UK
This is especially useful when trying to mate components machined previously. In the past I have had to make sure I did not disturb the compound slide setting between machining components which can be a nuisance when the operations do not follow each other. Keep up the good work, much appreciated.
Very clear easy to follow. I am not a turner, but I enjoy every one of Joe's videos theory and practical and no unnecessary chat.
Thank you.
This worked perfect to set 7.125 degrees to open up the taper on my D1-4 backplate. Thanks Joe, as a hobby machinist I have learned a lot from your videos. It took me ~10 times to get less than .001" error on the cross slide measurement, but I did get it. Then checked how true the angle was by checking with a .0005" test indicator along the original taper. Zero dial movement.
Glad it helped you. This is an incredibly accurate setup method.
I got a Hardinge lathe and made my own cross slide and compound so I had no graduated marks for the angle and needed to cut a backing plate for a chuck with the Hardinge 4 degree taper. I failed three times trying to use protectors and digital angle fingers and a few other items to double check the angle. I had one that would work but wasn't true. Only hit at the very back of the spindle nose taper. I just got done setting up using this method and I believe it's going to work great. Thanks for all the knowledge you are giving away and keep up the good work.
Good to hear. This is very accurate.
I had some jobs come in once that had like that out to 3 decimal places. I managed to cut them and set up a sine bar to check them with and they were right on. A few days later the engineer came back and wanted them recut to a different angle. I told him I'd never had a print before with such precise angles called for. Turns out that they were just experimental angles on a prototype and were drawn on a computer which had put in all the decimal places. I had cut them on a cnc. The next ones I just did on a manual lathe using the numbers on the compound and they worked fine for him. Yeah, engineers mostly seem to have no idea what goes into making parts to some of their prints. Ok, enough of that rant. I never would have thought to do an angle with the method you've shown. Thank you very much and keep them coming.
Thanks Dale. The longer the hypotenuse, the more accurate the angle. Give it a try. Be sure to watch the next video on how to inspect them !!
The best video I've ever seen explaining how to get tight angles. Man whoever said I'd never use High School math in life lied to me. I use it all the time. Thanks for sharing. Best Wishes n Blessings. Keith Noneya
Thanks Keith.
Thanks Joe for the trig refresher. Even better, you demonstrated its application on the lathe. That tip is a gem for setting the compound. Thanks again.
SUPER accurate!
It took me 3 times listening to your video to understand, but I got it sir. You the BOSS! As always, I enjoyed watching sir
Great lesson on how to apply trigonometry to the cross slide and the compound using the graduated dials.
This video was a breath of fresh air!!!!! Thank you.
Thanks for watching. Try it out.
Thanks Joe for another excellent tips video. I am sure i speak for many people in that we greatly appreciate these, there are few places this sort of information can easily be found - especially for us home shop machinists that have not had formal training. Keep them coming :)
Glad to help.
Thank you, Joe. I'm making an ER32 collet holder for a D1-4 spindle and this tip allowed me to cut the angle in the holder that mates to the lathe spindle. Thanks again
You earned another subscriber! All your methods seem to be very, very good. I appreciate that you spend so much time explaining these so that anyone can do it. Thanks!
Thanks for the comment and sub.
Thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and publishing the videos! I am just a bloody newbie and your videos have helped me immensely. Your videos are clear, concise and very well presented without any annoying babbling. Basically, you taught me via youtube. Thank you!
Bernhard
You are a pro. Tanks from Gunnar toolmaker from Sweden
Thanks for watching.
Oh my - so simple when you know how! so many thanks Joe for passing on this invaluable knowledge - Going to try this on my 70 year old Myford ML7
Also thinking of trying to make some angle gauges, we will see. Again many thanks and best wishes to you and you family.
Hey Joe, good stuff. I really appreciate your videos like this one. You present well and it is refreshing to see tips from someone with current, relevant practical experience on RUclips (in contrast to so many sloppy home-shop guys like myself). I practiced with this technique and was able to hit my chosen test taper spot on. Thanks!
Outstanding. the bigger the triangle you use, the greater the accuracy. thanks for trying it and thank you for the comment.
Hi Joe, I'm new to your videos, I'm self taught what I know about machining and your informational videos are excellent, this last compound angle video is one awesome idea, just what I needed to cut some morse angles. What I want to say about figuring angles is get that construction master calculator and with the run/ rise/pitch/diagonal functions you can figure those angles so fast and easy without getting into fancy geometry stuff. Thanks again for making life easier when cutting precise angles.
This is some good stuff... I've used gage blocks and indicators before to trig out the angle, but never once did I thought to use the tailstock as a reference. This is gold for me. Thanks Joe!
Check the tailstock and stay near center and your angles will be incredibly accurate. Be sure your tool height is equally adjusted to center for the best accuracy.
Retired now, I worked for many years in Jig Boring shops. Just about every job that came across my desk involved tolerances in tenths of a thousandth. Angles usually were no exception. We came up with a method using the side of the compound to set the angle with an indicator in the spindle. First set the compound angle as close as possible to start with using the graduations. Then consider the side of the compound as the triangle's hypotenuse, pick an even number like 3" or 4" for the side, then calculate the other two sides of the triangle for the desired angle. set the indicator to zero just touching the compound. Use the lathe readout for the distances in the X (cross slide) and Y (long travel) axis to set the opposite and adjacent sides of the triangle. You will need to double the X cross slide number as it reads in diameter! Just as with Joe's method, it's possible to set angles within seconds of arc!
I cut a JT33 taper with this technique and it worked perfect! Thanks for the tip!
Joe, thank you. I’m a self taught amateur hobby machinist. I’ve used any of your techniques building engines that actually run. The angle technique on the compound slide is especially useful. I’d never get angles correct otherwise. John
You can get it within minutes this way. Super accurate method.
And my trig students in school did not think there was any value to learning the functions and their application. I am now retired but If I was still teaching, your video would be my teaching tool.
Its a hard fact that machining needs a strong base in geometry and trig. At least it makes it easier if you understand it.
Great tip. Practical trig application. Fantastic explanation helps demystify the complexity of such a complex part. Thanks again, Joe.
Terrific (and easy) method Joe, I've written this out in my notebook, one to remember for sure!
Its super accurate.
Joe, I used this method today (to cut a precise outside angle) and it worked perfectly! Thanks!
Well done, I was sent to class today. Just when I think I'm making huge strides, I have so far to go.
Hi from New Zealand Joe.
I've just binge watched your entire channel and subscribed. You have fantastic technical info and new techniques I haven't seen before. Hope you can make more videos for us. Don't worry too much about camera angles / steadiness and production values etc if this will put you off putting out videos. Your content is high quality and speaks for itself.
Cheers
Tim
Thank Tim. Great comment. Stay tuned and thanks for subscribing.
Great video. I love it. When I need that kind of accuracy I usually indicate along a sinebar. Very precise also and rules out leadcrew inaccuracies. Works in milling machine too.
I use the same technique plus to make it easier to set the target angle. I clamp a 1m strip of wood across the bed at right angles. The wood is located to the right of the tail stock. The wood sticks out the front of the lathe. I then clamp a 1.4m length of square section steel onto the side of the top slide. The end of the steel rests on the wood, but is not clamped or attached to it. I now make a first attempt to adjust the angle of the top slide using Joe's method. I mark where the steel now rests on the wood by using the steel like a ruler to mark a line. After each adjustment to set the target angle, I mark a new line on the wood. This gives me a history of angle setting attempts. It is also MUCH easier to make very fine angle adjustments at the far end of the steel than at the top slide. It takes longer to explain than it does to do. It speeds up setting the angle to fine tolerances.
It is amazing how much you can learn in this trade. I haven't stopped learning yet. Joe, your videos are just great. Keep up the good work!!
Love your videos. Trig Math is easy for me, but I have never thought about using it for setting machines up. I have always focused on using 'traditional' methods. Well done (Chris - New Zealand)
Thanks Chris. It works very well.
Thanks guy! I'm a home hobbyist and I got an RFQ that included an inside taper at 10.62*. I wasn't sure I could even quote the job 10 mins ago. Cheers!!
this was like the clouds parting and the sun shining through - brilliant and thanks for such a simple concise way to hit crazy angles. awesome.
Thanks for the comment. Glad you liked it.
digging through your vids now, subscribed, learned more in the last 30 minutes than the previous week. from California. gotta get outta here...
Joe, that was amazing, thanks. I always put a sine bar against the tailstock and turn cpmpound until I got 0-0 on the indicator, this is much better! after 45 years I spent in toolroom and job shop, you amaze me!
Thanks Frank. Thats hard to do to guys with experience like yours.
Merci from France Joe, this trick will be very useful to me. François
Greetings from Austin Texas! Glad to hear it. It works well.
Thanks a million I tried this and got to within .0005 on the dial indicator of a 30 degree angle repeatably several times, tightened the gibs a wee bit and was finally able to get it to go to zero every time.
My lathe reads 60 where others read 30.
And yes in response the the comment below I did sweep the quill of the tail stock and it is dead on from one end to the other.
Again thanks a million.
Worth
Glad it worked out for you. Its a solid technique. Thanks for commenting.
A very elegant technique! Good clear and concise explanation. Keep the videos coming Joe.
I'm learning so much. Many thanks Paul
Nice one glad I'm not the only one who think that about the odd engineer. Very timely for me as I had been considering the very problem. Thanks for your time and passing on the knowledge.
Thanks Will. This works great.
Very clever approach. Just be aware that its accuracy relies on your tailstock quill surface alignment with the spindle rotation axis. Any wearings or dents on the quill surface might set your taper off.
Am I ignorant to think that this approach to cutting an angle doesn't rely on any alignment other than accurate measurements? I'm new to machining. How precisely can a 90 be measured. And if the 90 is true, you can make any angle right?
Measure the part not the tool? Am i wrong?
Hi Joe, put your method into practice and replicated your figures however, two important points
1. had to convert to decimal degrees, (No printed trig book handy)
2. Tail stock must be precisely inline with Lathe center line.
then it worked like a charm.
Worked amazingly as you indicated used your method for the expanding arbor Nut.
Thank you again.
You're a great teacher man! Ive been in a pinch a few times and had a video of yours save me! Keep it up thanks!
Glad it helped!
Wow. I am really loving your teaching methods. Great vids. I just got a 7x10in mini lathe to start working with, cause that's all my wife would let me get. I one day I'd love to have a big boy lathe and a shop of my own. Please keep the lessons coming. Thank you.
Glad to help
Thats brilliant, super clear and simple :). A couple of comments about possible inaccuracy of the tailstock.
If youre working on an old beater with known issues with the tailstock, of even if there is no tailstock, you could chuck up a piece of scrap and cut a couple of collars of equal diameter over the distance you need, then measure out youre triangle in the same way. That way youre relating to directly to the spindle.
Cheers Joe, ill be needing to do this sometime soon.
I spend a lot of time using trig (soh cah toa) for mill work. That is one great tip for lathe work!! Sure beats the eye loop! Thank you for passing on your knowledge.
Another useful video thank you for that. During the Coronavirus I have been in machine shop 101 using your videos as my guide. You a a great teacher. I have been making tools. Fly cutters, vise stops on and on. My problem is that I saw an adjustable stop that bolts onto the back of a Kurt vice that you have made. I want to make one but I need to see it again for some of the fine details. My problem is that I cannot find it again! I do not remember the topic of the video it was in. I have been searching for a couple days through your videos with no luck. I would appreciate very much if you could point me to the video where you show it. I'm 64 years old like a kid in a candy shop, this is fun! Thank you for what you do. From chilly Michigan.
I looked for a while, but couldn't find the close ups. Maybe a short video is in order.
Pure genius, instead of dreading trying to cut an accurate angle I look forward to trying. I have to make some grinder hubs with internal tapers so will use this method. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Thanks. Be sure the tool is extremely close to center when you do this. Any deviation high or low starts to flatten out the angle.
@@joepie221 Thanks Joe, I'll make sure I pay careful attention to the tool height.
Just to let you know I used the technique you demonstrated for turning very thin walled components to make a 10 thou thick acetel spacer that was missing from the seal set of a 30 ton press we bought cheap as it was leaking hydraulic fluid. The OEM part was only available as part of the full seal kit which was very, very expensive. So, thanks again. It just shows how useful sharing knowledge is.
Just made my second internal morse taper using your system. Works a treat. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. Good on ya mate.
Great to hear!
Joe...not trying to be a Butt, however, this is High School Geometry Class ! Sine, Cosine, Tangent, etc. Tool manuals give those calculations. What YOU have shown us is HOW TO USE THAT GEOMETRY ! THANK YOU, THANK YOU, THANK YOU !
i knew it was Geometry, but did not know HOW to turn it into practical use ! I bought a WEN Aluminum Protractor and STILL you cannot
read the lines close enough. You technique EXPANDS the numbers out for old, half blind people like me !
Another awesome lesson...IMO, not only for this subject but you show power of the right triangle in solving a measurement
Thank you. Its simple, easy and spot on accurate.
Nice one Joe! I was looking, because I need to do an outside tapered bushing for a project. My dimensions are much less critical, but the measurement quite simple! Tested in a mini lathe on bronze for practice, then did a full 304 SS version. Wonderful. Now, just have to cut threads.
I'm an engineer and this is why engineering students need to spend all their free time in the machine shop. That 44 minutes on the degree just cost the company 20 minutes in additional set up time, and potentially a lot of scrap for less capable machinists. My other pet peeve is engineers tolerancing everything to +/- .001" because they can't / won't do a tolerance study or don't understand fitments.
I'm getting off my soap box now.
Wrong,... if it was zero minutes, and the tolerance was the same,... it would have been no different.
Daniel Wahl, only partially.
Amen brother! Ive told numerous engineers that they should come out in the shop and attempt to do what they ask. Its not an easy thing to do on an engine lathe. I recently had to cut a 7.2 degree angle on a mandrel on a manual lathe and I made the engineer come out and see my setup so he could realize how difficult that can be.
Even better when you ask for a part to be made within .005 and the machinist makes it to within .001 and charges extra
Yes, as a journeyman machinist of 40 years myself, I couldn't agree more with you. Adding a fourth zero to the right of the decimal point takes everything to a whole never level of stress for the machinist.
You can also use the same technique on the milling machine using the ball on your clock as a sine bar. This can be used for setting a given angle on a dividing head with a straight bar in the jaws and again using the ball on the clock has a sine bar. I’ve also machined many parts for all types of aircraft with tight tolerances on angles and none have come back rejected. Keep up the good work.
Best channel on youtube on the topic, just second to none. Thank you for doing this
Thanks for the comment. Its a solid technique.
What a great review of my plane geometry class of 59 years ago... I loved geometry and still love it!!!
That was an impressive trig lesson. I really do like this answer to a simple problem. I really like this approach over what I see a lot, what uses a "close enough" approach. Depending on the job I'm running, some of them it's "as long as it fits the box" others it's "get it as close as humanly possible... then get it closer" so the math approach is appreciated. the old slogan "If the numbers are good, the result will be good" comes to mind.
We need more like him, with experiance and history to teach our youth. Because those who have potential will instantly understand what he is talking about and soak up the knowlege. And i'm not talking about machinist class, i talking about math class
Thank you.
Very nice! This is similar to what I do, only I use a parallel on the compound set to be inline with the centerline of the lathe. This is a faster method for sure.
One issue people should be aware of.
This assumes the barrel on your tail stock is inline with the ways, and is free of defects at the contact points. This is a bad assumption on an import. You should verify the barrel on your tail stock is in proper alignment. You would want to fix this in any case.
You can still correct for the error though.
affix a sharpie to the compound inplace of the test indicator.
Touch the barrel with the sharpie at the compounds 0 mark, and again at the compounds 3" mark.
Sweep the barrel with a test indicator from mark to mark and record the error.
This error is a constant and can be added or subtracted from how far you crank in the cross slide. Make a drawing and you will be able to see where to add or subtract.
Watching this in prep for cutting a Jacobs E Taper for some chucks I have in my parts bin - I was originally planing to try this between centers on a test bar instead of with the tailstock since i have demonstrable problems on the barrel.
THIS. If your lathe has any errors, it will be translated into the workpiece. This is where the trainee differs from the master. The master understands and compensates for this kind of errors. You could also just use a machined rod in the lathe as a reference, and all errors in the setup would cancel.
Looks good Joe! You did also mention you'd show us how we'd check it if you were the inspector. I'm keen to see you get out some steel balls to check angle and depths!
Take a look at my other video on checking conical features. If you know the angle is good, this closes the loop.
My son asked me the other day what good is trigonometry, now I can show him, thanks
great video Joe - your teaching techniques are wonderful
Thanks. Glad you found it helpful.
I was doing this trick the other day, but used a piece of straight stock (I had just machined it) in the lathe chuck to set up the triangle. Same idea, different side. Thanks for confirming I was using a REAL machinist's trick Joe! PS, I need to use your tailstock idea for confirming the alignment of my mini lathe tailstock at home too.
Absolutely Enlightening. Forgot to commend and Thank YOU most graciously for Showing Sharing and teaching us these innovative practical gems that are worth their Weight in GOLD. We can't BUY this.
Thanks a zillion Cap'n.
May Your SHADOW ALWAYS STAY LONG !!!
aRM
I'm glad to pass this along. Do the same when the opportunity presents itself.
I can't understand your drawings but I understand your practical work on lathe & dial indicator method,thanks & best wishes for you from india
Used this method to set to bore 1.5" taper per foot for wheel hubs on hydraulic motors. Worked great and very easy to set up. Thanks!
What an elegant solution! I want to make an ER collet chuck. This procedure should help me accurately set my compound to the 8 degrees required for the collet taper. Thanks.
This is a very simple and accurate method. I’ve used this many times. The only thing that would make it easier, is to put the indicator directly inline on the X axis with the compound pivot and slide the compound the other direction. When adjusting the compound angle the first reading barely moves while the second reading does all of the changing. This also works on supplemental angles against the chuck face. Just use your Z axis DRO or an indicator to position your carriage.
I just watched a few of your videos till now but I learned something in each one. You're showing great stuff! Thanks! The way I did this was more complicated and I hope to decrease setup time for future tapers.
This will get you very close to perfect. Good luck.
I am begging to realise that triangles are my best friend. What a simple technique and acurate too. I would like to see your mag clock holder in some more detail. I haven't seen one like that before and it looks pretty versitile. Everyone seems Noga mad on YT but your job looks like a cool alternative! Great, to the point video. (BTW - Sent by Chuck Bom' )
Chuck is a good man. He did that short screw video without my knowledge. What a great surprise. It has really helped the subscriptions grow. Pass the word. Thanks for the comment.
Another fantastic video by if I may " Joe " , Always a great and informative master of description, process and understandable direction. Joe you are what Yoda is to Luke. THANKS MAN im thank full for your expertise and willingness to share. From an appreciative old hobbyist .
My good friend and part time admin Jordan has give me the nickname "Joda"