Mostly commenting to help the spread, but my favorite aspect of your videos is the deeper insight you provide into the process are your thinking. As a more aspirational woodworker than anything else, I don’t always benefit from the more detailed insights, but understanding a little about how you think about woodworking is incredibly useful.
I agree, it makes sense for you to have nice handmade shop furniture. Two big reasons: first, you get to practice your joinery skills, learn new techniques, etc, on furniture that isn’t goi g into the house or going for sale; second, I find looking at my shop furniture is enormously satisfying and even inspiring. I do my best planning in my shop, and being surrounded by hand made shop furniture is a great way to set my frame of mind.
Exactly, a nice shop just puts you in the perfect creative mindset! Once I'm in a more permanent shop I'm hoping to build it out similar to a Shaker style class room with some beautiful trim and cabinetry around. For now these small touches really help make the place nice!
I think a lot of the argument comes from two people being in different situations. If you have a bunch of client work then sure, your shop is a tool and you should do your work instead of making it pretty. But hobbyists don’t usually have people lining up to buy $3000 tables. So we end up being our own main client. And yeah, when you’re just making stuff for yourself and developing a hobby then it makes sense to treat each shop piece like fine furniture. Both views make sense. It all depends on if you have real client work you should be doing instead. Is it a business or a hobby right now?
Thats a pretty little cabinet, nice work! If you ask me, the way you handled the grooves running through looks great and purposeful. I feel like I stifle myself sometimes because instead of coming up with good solutions like that I convince myself it isn't right to do it that way, or that a through groove won't look good. Thanks for showing that off and I hope you feel extremely proud!
Thanks, I was kind of worried that the through grooves would look like I was being lazy, so I'm glad you understood that it was an intentional design choice!
Well made and attractive shop furniture is always a pleasure to use and admire. Even if not many people see it other than yourself (not in this case), there is nothing wrong with splurging on things for yourself that you will use and enjoy on a daily basis.
I will admit, that is one part of this career path I'm following that is pretty nice, not only do I get to make videos about the shop projects but then they get to live in the background and make the shop look a little more interesting!
I don't always comment on your vids, but i do appreciate the reasoning behind the design, process or detail of what are doing. Im all about functionality, but also realize that my 1/2 garage workshop is my little fortress of solitude. So, I like the thought & reality of having nicer, functional workshop furniture.
I've wanted try making wood runners for a while, and can safely say they work alot better than I expected. They're a little bit smoother than having the drawers slide on a bottom frame and cost basically nothing compared to the metal ones! What's even more interesting is I've found a few ways to make full extension solid wood drawer slides that I'll be using on an upcoming project!
Traditional fine furniture is piston fit drawers without slides. When you say ‘everybody’ you’re just talking about modern makers that barely use any hand tools and seem to be more into design or RUclips views than making heirloom furniture. There is nothing wrong with this. I love those channels and watch them all the time. It’s certainly high quality hardwood furniture. (Well some are and some are just screwing together plywood with pocket screws) But it is not the same level of ultra premium that you get when you hand cut a half blind piston fit dovetail drawer. Obviously the ultra high premium stuff is going to be rarer as it’s just not as approachable to the average maker. But there are people out there that do it (like Sawyer Designs).
That’s exactly how I view it. Everyone’s always like it’s just my shop furniture, doesn’t have to be nice. Yea but your in that space everyday, don’t you want to look at something nice and make your environment pleasant to the eye.
In my opinion the main reason to have pretty shop furniture is practice. Sure you can brad nail a plywood drawer box but that’s not helping you get better at making legit furniture. For most hobbyists we are our own clients. So since we don’t have a customer base to pay for materials we are limited to making what we can afford and what we personally need. Obviously you don’t want to make it out of expensive wood. But it makes sense to make it to the same quality standard as a real piece for practice.
Great vid mate and even better chest of drawers. I do love a nice box joint but boy are they finicky to get consistent when you're making dozens of them. That Leigh jig looks awesome.
Honestly I could never go back to cutting box joints any other way, I tried for years to do them on the table saw and they work but never as precise as the Leigh jig can do!
@@morganhurst_redridge love watching your videos always watch as soon as you post them you’ve become one of my favorite channels to watch. Keep up the great work.
They were definitely an integral part of the design, my first idea was using dovetails and hidden slides but then I got the idea to use the box joints and that was a game changer!
Great video and content. I like watching how you build. You do things differently. Some I agree with. Some I don't. Some I already do that way. Some I get inspiration to go in a slightly different direction.
That's the fun part of these video, I've learned so much from putting out these videos and having people leave suggestions on different techniques and every once in a while when I find interesting techniques it's cool to share those too!
Nice build! You did some fine work on the joinery there, and it looks so great! I had this idea to make drawers using brass bars for the runners. Might add some cool accents to the sides of the case too.
Brass slides would be sweet! I've been wanting to work with brass for a long time, I just can't find a source locally. Even the big box stores don't seem to carry brass flat bar. I found one company that'll ship it but that makes it fairly expensive, but someday I'd definitely find a way to use some brass details in a project!
@@morganhurst_redridge hunh. I just checked and they don’t carry bars anymore! Maybe google for brass foundries? I happen to have one 30m from where I live. I should check if they have a retail space.
That's too bad about Lee Valley, that would've been very convenient! I was able to find this place called Metal Supermarket near me and they car brass flat bar, but none of it's in stock and doesn't show prices... I'll probably end up ordering it from this website www.knifemaker.ca/ , I've ordered some knife making stuff from them and they sell a good range of flat bar up 3/4" thick.
The thing to worry about there is the runners wearing down the drawer box. Typically you want the runner to be softer than the drawer so that the runner wears out. Obviously the runner is much easier to replace than building another drawer. This is especially true when people often make their drawers out of secondary woods like poplar or soft maple. Obviously this is a long term concern but I would personally be wary of running a maple drawer over brass runners.
To solve the problem with planes crapping up your protruding tails and box joints, pare with a chisel first, then move to the plane once you're one or two shavings away. It's a little slower than just attacking them with the plane (and a lot slower than the sander), but your results will be clean.
@@morganhurst_redridge no prob. Also using a low angle plane might help, but it isn't necessary as long as you're nice n sharp. A good low angle block is helpful for this sorta thing. Also, I should have congratulated you on such a nice build. Good job! :)
I plan to get into doing this eventually, I even have a secondary channels set up for it! www.youtube.com/@redridge--tools The problem right now is just time, I'm trying to add some of these videos to my schedule so they may start showing up in the next few months!
Get Hock plane & chip breaker blades for your old Stanleys, they're thicker, less chatter & drop in fit. Highly recommended, make an old Stanley run like a Veritas
Those are interesting, I was planning on getting the Veritas replacement blade but the Hock is definitely more affordable. Thanks for letting me know about the brand, I'll keep it in mind if I decided to upgrade the blade!
Regarding the difference between modern and antique planes, I have to agree. My first plane was also a low angle jack, but I now only break it out for working with end grain. The lighter Stanley planes are just far more pleasant to use.
What I'm really interesting in trying is a Lie-Nielson, I know they're basically Bedrock clones so it would interesting to see if they are equality as comfortable as the older planes, I just have to save up for a few years!
Nice build, I would have made the slides a bit shorter running into stopped grooves so to preserve the entirety of the front but I understand it would have taken more time. Also planing the drawers from both ends (stopping half way) would eliminate the risk of tearing out the finger joints. Overall really a nice build, looking forward to the apothecary one using the dovetail bit instead of the straight one, apothecary furniture is classy 😉
I was going to do the slides that way but when I was working on the 3D model, I really liked the look of the slides poking out. I think they add that nice spot of walnut on the drawer fronts. I've started the design of a small apothecary cabinet but it's going to be a while, I'm realizing now that not only are they a decent amount of work but the amount of materials gets crazy expensive!
@@morganhurst_redridge I see, to reduce the costs a bit maybe consider using clear acrylic sheets for some part of the build, they can highlight the content really nicely as well
Hyde glue seems to be the new hotness. Whats old is new haha. It definitely looks to have its favorable uses. I picked up a Woodriver #6 as it had a pretty good price. People say its heavy but it doesnt really seem like it in using it for a time. Did you happen to slightly taper the drawers as well? The dark brass looks good with that wood.
I promise I was trying to use hide glue before it became a trend! It is kind of funny seeing people like myself coming to terms with the idea that you don't always need the strength of titebond 3. I've been looking at the Woodriver planes for a while now, I'm really interested in getting a 5 1/2", and I may go with Woodriver if I can't find an old Stanley. I tapered one of the drawers and it actually caused some annoying issues. The bottom drawer is slightly tapered because I thought it would help guide it into place but what I found is that if there is any side to side movement at the back end of the drawer, it jams more often. With the rest of the drawers I just worked the sides until the drawer fit, did a couple extra passes so it would slide freely and that made the drawers very smooth.
@@morganhurst_redridgeI always ask myself if doing something the fancy way when it doesn’t matter ‘is this going too teach me something or give me practice with something I’m not good at?’ Because if you can’t see it and it doesn’t make you better then there literally no point in doing it. Now if it was something I’ve never done before I would probably do it the fancy way because that would help teach me how to do it "right’. But if I know how to do it right already then doing it one more time doesn’t really help. It just wastes time and materials.
Somebody told me that Hide glue is much better for 45 degree angles on furniture and the box/dovetail joints. It helps the joints fill into each other far better. I don't know if that is true yet bcos I haven't made box joints yet.. How do u handle the dust in ur shop Morgan? It's driving me round the bend atm./ I hadn't been out to my little shop for a few days after using the jointer and even though it wasn't that messy it and my mitre saw left so much dust on everything. I went out last night to get some things to finish something I was working on in the house and I couldn't believe how much dust was on everything. I was jointing/thicknessing some old boards for something I want to build and the dust from that alone wasn't as bad as I thought it might be but I was cutting some skirting on the mitre saw and it was so messy with no dust extraction on the thing.. Oh my days the dust last night was everywhere.. I have to go out and clean it this evening now and I'm not looking forward to it atm.. LOL U love ur touch of Walnut bro.. heehee! U are using it well though man. Credit to ya for another fine build.. For a beginner like me could u give me one piece of advice to keep myself motivated to get into the shop every day even if it's only for an hour to begin with?? Thanks for this video Morgan. Great work gain pal..
Hide glue is hands down the best for any form of joinery because it lubricates the joint, helping things like dovetails or box joints to slide together nicely! For dust, look into getting an air filter, I have the Wen air filter from Amazon and even though it's too small for my shop it makes a huge difference for the amount of dust that builds up on stuff. Another trick I use is to keep my shop vac in a convenient spot and plugged in, that way when I make a mess I'm more likely to grab the hose and clean it up right away.
The best way to get motivated for woodworking is to make sure you're passionate about the project, which isn't always possible so sometimes it's going to be a little forced but when you're trying to decide what project to do next try to pick something that will be a bit of a challenge or teach you something new, for me that's what keeps me going! I will admit I get that feeling all the time though, where I just don't want to do any woodworking and when that hits I try to do something else like video games or going for a walk. If you try to force yourself too much you'll end up making woodworking a chore and it'll never be fun!
@@morganhurst_redridge Thanks man. That's some great advice. I'm about to start something myself this coming week. Take it easy Morgan and thanks again..
Thanks for sharing. I am at most a month about from starting Christian Becksvoort's 15 drawer chest to hold small items in my shop. Don't like the plastic bins. I figure my dovetails by hand will greatly improve by the time I'm done. I don't own a machine router. As such, I often use my plough plane. What I have done is use a contrasting wood such as ebony or maple to make a feature out of the gaps. By any chance could you please consider making a RUclips video talking through how you edit the video to make a RUclips video. I can find how to RUclips video editing. However, much of them delve too deeply into things. If I were every to do a RUclips video, it would be like your style with voice over. Could you talk a bit more about the wooden fence you added to your PowerMatic table top mortiser? I have the same mortiser and immediately understand why that fence would be helpful. Would love any further insights you have about it.
I can't post a video here about how I edit the videos because the RUclips algorithm is pretty picky about what I post to my channel and right now I need to appease the all powerful algorithm. I'm happy to walk you through the steps though, just head over to my website and shoot me an email. For the mortiser base, this is just version one and I'm still working out some of the kinks but when I put together version two there will definitely be a video! So far it's be an absolute game changer for the functionality of the mortiser and I'm looking forward to making version two very soon.
I get most of my lumber from PJ White, they're in south calgary about 10 minutes from lee valley. They're a commercial supplier so lumbers alot cheaper but you do have to buy full boards. Overall, I highly recommend checking them out!
I tried replying to your reply to my original comment, but everytime I do, it doesnt actually send for some reason so I'll make a new one here. I went to PJ's website and they have a lot of stuff for sale, all but lumber. Is the lumber that you purchase something that you go in in-person and see what they have in stock, or do you give them a call and put in a request order? Thanks for all your info, man!
That website is for the Richelieu brand in general, they bought out PJ a few years ago. Funny enough you can't actually buy Richelieu hardware at PJ even though Richelieu owns them! The best thing to do is just go in the front door and the person behind the counter will let you know the prices and whatnot. They don't have a wide selection of lumber you can pick through, but they typically have a lot of the basic domestics (walnut, both oaks, ash, cherry, maple, poplar, alder). I think they do carry some other woods but those are the ones that are easily available to pick through. They also have basically every type of sheet good you could ever want. Then you'll go in the back, dig through the piles to find what you want, then the guys at the shipping counter will count it up, you'll pay in the front and be good to go. For a little bit of reference on my last trip, I bought some 8/4 cherry for $7.95/bdft. Compared to Black Forest at $10.95/bdft, it's not massive savings but it does help. Also, they are the single best source for cherry in Calgary, most of the times I've bought cherry from them it's solid heartwood, as the pile gets low you'll get some worse stuff but most of the time even the "worse" stuff is pretty awesome!
@@morganhurst_redridge Imo, that's a sizable savings worth coming back for, especially when the more you buy. I'm heading to Calgary next weekend, so I will definitely be checking them out & hopefully find some good cherry! Thanks
Awesome build. And the video is great too. But man you talk too much! You don't have to explain each and every little step you do. Try to reduce the voice-over a bit and let the video do the talking. Just my 2 cents
These videos are targeted more towards new woodworkers so explaining the steps is an important part of help people understand why I'm making certain decision during the project. I know this style of video isn't for everyone, but it's the style that helped me learn, so I'm going to keep making them this way. If you'd like to see the videos without the voices overs, check out my other channel that's just the "raw" video with the shop sounds. www.youtube.com/@redridge-shopsounds
My 1½ cents-I don’t mind the amount of talking; however, as a gentle suggestion, could you consider slowing down your narration some? The best narrators enunciate each word distinctly, and include frequent pauses between sentences and phrases. Just a thought. Your video(s), so you get make your choices.
@@rogerlove7588 I appreciate the suggestion, I've never been good at public speaking and definitely have a tendency to talk at light speed, but I promise I'm working on it!
As someone who likes narration there is a never ending battle between those who want commentary and those of you who just want silent woodworking. I assure you there are dozens of woodworking channels who never say anything. Look into the Japanese channels as they seem to be mostly silent. Plus I think it’s a fair compromise to tell you guys to just mute the video and put on some smooth jazz in another tab if that’s what you want. Since I can’t put on commentary in the background, the logical compromise is for you to mute the video if you don’t want talking. Sorry you won’t get to hear the tool noise but again there are plenty of channels that are (unwatchable to me) silent woodworking.
I can't ever enjoy watching your videos because your talk entirely too much. The incessant rambling completely ruins the experience of watching your create something.
Mostly commenting to help the spread, but my favorite aspect of your videos is the deeper insight you provide into the process are your thinking. As a more aspirational woodworker than anything else, I don’t always benefit from the more detailed insights, but understanding a little about how you think about woodworking is incredibly useful.
I really appreciate hearing that, that's exactly why I love making these videos and my goals more than anything are to try and inspire!
Thank for creating these video. 👏👏
thank you Morgan looks great
Glad you enjoyed it!
I think that’s the fanciest shop furniture I’ve seen! Looks great! 😊
Hope to do a alot more fancy pieces like this once I get into a more permanent shop space!
I agree, it makes sense for you to have nice handmade shop furniture. Two big reasons: first, you get to practice your joinery skills, learn new techniques, etc, on furniture that isn’t goi g into the house or going for sale; second, I find looking at my shop furniture is enormously satisfying and even inspiring. I do my best planning in my shop, and being surrounded by hand made shop furniture is a great way to set my frame of mind.
Exactly, a nice shop just puts you in the perfect creative mindset! Once I'm in a more permanent shop I'm hoping to build it out similar to a Shaker style class room with some beautiful trim and cabinetry around. For now these small touches really help make the place nice!
I think a lot of the argument comes from two people being in different situations. If you have a bunch of client work then sure, your shop is a tool and you should do your work instead of making it pretty. But hobbyists don’t usually have people lining up to buy $3000 tables. So we end up being our own main client. And yeah, when you’re just making stuff for yourself and developing a hobby then it makes sense to treat each shop piece like fine furniture. Both views make sense. It all depends on if you have real client work you should be doing instead. Is it a business or a hobby right now?
Solid draw slide method, I'm going to be borrowing that one!
It is a nice method, not as expensive as the metal slides and they work really well!
@@morganhurst_redridge ...and the friction fit to get that spacing (chefs kiss)
I would love to see you build an apothecary cabinet! Then my lady would love for me to build her one lol, so I hope you do! Great video!
It's on my todo list, I just have to get up the will to work with all those drawers!
Lovely to find your posts!!
Thank you!
Agree completely. When I make something, regardless of what will be used for, I want feel some pride whenever I see it!
Exactly! There's nothing better than seeing your past projects and feeling a sense of joy.
Beautiful job.
Thank you!
Thats a pretty little cabinet, nice work!
If you ask me, the way you handled the grooves running through looks great and purposeful. I feel like I stifle myself sometimes because instead of coming up with good solutions like that I convince myself it isn't right to do it that way, or that a through groove won't look good. Thanks for showing that off and I hope you feel extremely proud!
Thanks, I was kind of worried that the through grooves would look like I was being lazy, so I'm glad you understood that it was an intentional design choice!
Well made and attractive shop furniture is always a pleasure to use and admire. Even if not many people see it other than yourself (not in this case), there is nothing wrong with splurging on things for yourself that you will use and enjoy on a daily basis.
I will admit, that is one part of this career path I'm following that is pretty nice, not only do I get to make videos about the shop projects but then they get to live in the background and make the shop look a little more interesting!
Love the style and video editing in general. Thanks for sharing
I'm glad to hear it, thank for watching!
Nice build (as always) Morgan. Keep it up!
Thanks!
I don't always comment on your vids, but i do appreciate the reasoning behind the design, process or detail of what are doing. Im all about functionality, but also realize that my 1/2 garage workshop is my little fortress of solitude. So, I like the thought & reality of having nicer, functional workshop furniture.
Thank for taking the time to comment, I think that's a great mindset to have!
Awesome idea for positioning the drawer slides and fitting the drawers. Thanks for the great build video! Rad cabinet.
I was glad I thought of it before starting the project, it definitely made aligning the drawer slides way easier!
awesome project. I love the wooden runners for the drawers. seems like EVERYBODY uses the metal drawer glides but this is much more classy!
I've wanted try making wood runners for a while, and can safely say they work alot better than I expected. They're a little bit smoother than having the drawers slide on a bottom frame and cost basically nothing compared to the metal ones! What's even more interesting is I've found a few ways to make full extension solid wood drawer slides that I'll be using on an upcoming project!
Traditional fine furniture is piston fit drawers without slides. When you say ‘everybody’ you’re just talking about modern makers that barely use any hand tools and seem to be more into design or RUclips views than making heirloom furniture. There is nothing wrong with this. I love those channels and watch them all the time. It’s certainly high quality hardwood furniture. (Well some are and some are just screwing together plywood with pocket screws) But it is not the same level of ultra premium that you get when you hand cut a half blind piston fit dovetail drawer. Obviously the ultra high premium stuff is going to be rarer as it’s just not as approachable to the average maker. But there are people out there that do it (like Sawyer Designs).
Great job! I love the walnut and cherry together.
It really is a awesome wood combo, especially in a couple years when the cherry ages!
That’s exactly how I view it. Everyone’s always like it’s just my shop furniture, doesn’t have to be nice. Yea but your in that space everyday, don’t you want to look at something nice and make your environment pleasant to the eye.
I'm looking forward to having a pretty nice looking shop someday, maybe not walnut everywhere but at least some nice hardwood details here and there!
In my opinion the main reason to have pretty shop furniture is practice. Sure you can brad nail a plywood drawer box but that’s not helping you get better at making legit furniture. For most hobbyists we are our own clients. So since we don’t have a customer base to pay for materials we are limited to making what we can afford and what we personally need. Obviously you don’t want to make it out of expensive wood. But it makes sense to make it to the same quality standard as a real piece for practice.
Great vid mate and even better chest of drawers. I do love a nice box joint but boy are they finicky to get consistent when you're making dozens of them. That Leigh jig looks awesome.
Honestly I could never go back to cutting box joints any other way, I tried for years to do them on the table saw and they work but never as precise as the Leigh jig can do!
Another great build Morgan always love watching your videos and watching what you make keep up the great work
Thanks for taking the time to watch the video!
@@morganhurst_redridge love watching your videos always watch as soon as you post them you’ve become one of my favorite channels to watch. Keep up the great work.
@@jimrosson6702 I can't even describe how good that is to hear, thanks for making my day!
Beautiful end result. The wood drawer slides are fantastic, barely visible until the drawers are open, but actually my favorite part!
They were definitely an integral part of the design, my first idea was using dovetails and hidden slides but then I got the idea to use the box joints and that was a game changer!
Great video and content. I like watching how you build. You do things differently. Some I agree with. Some I don't. Some I already do that way. Some I get inspiration to go in a slightly different direction.
That's the fun part of these video, I've learned so much from putting out these videos and having people leave suggestions on different techniques and every once in a while when I find interesting techniques it's cool to share those too!
Nice build! You did some fine work on the joinery there, and it looks so great!
I had this idea to make drawers using brass bars for the runners. Might add some cool accents to the sides of the case too.
Brass slides would be sweet! I've been wanting to work with brass for a long time, I just can't find a source locally. Even the big box stores don't seem to carry brass flat bar. I found one company that'll ship it but that makes it fairly expensive, but someday I'd definitely find a way to use some brass details in a project!
@@morganhurst_redridge doesn’t Lee Valley have brass bars? I thought they did 🤔
@@morganhurst_redridge hunh. I just checked and they don’t carry bars anymore! Maybe google for brass foundries? I happen to have one 30m from where I live. I should check if they have a retail space.
That's too bad about Lee Valley, that would've been very convenient! I was able to find this place called Metal Supermarket near me and they car brass flat bar, but none of it's in stock and doesn't show prices...
I'll probably end up ordering it from this website www.knifemaker.ca/ , I've ordered some knife making stuff from them and they sell a good range of flat bar up 3/4" thick.
The thing to worry about there is the runners wearing down the drawer box. Typically you want the runner to be softer than the drawer so that the runner wears out. Obviously the runner is much easier to replace than building another drawer. This is especially true when people often make their drawers out of secondary woods like poplar or soft maple. Obviously this is a long term concern but I would personally be wary of running a maple drawer over brass runners.
looks great
Thanks!
To solve the problem with planes crapping up your protruding tails and box joints, pare with a chisel first, then move to the plane once you're one or two shavings away. It's a little slower than just attacking them with the plane (and a lot slower than the sander), but your results will be clean.
That's really helpful thank you!
@@morganhurst_redridge no prob. Also using a low angle plane might help, but it isn't necessary as long as you're nice n sharp. A good low angle block is helpful for this sorta thing.
Also, I should have congratulated you on such a nice build. Good job! :)
Any chance you could make a video of the tools you use, like which make of saw, chisels etc, thank you.
I plan to get into doing this eventually, I even have a secondary channels set up for it!
www.youtube.com/@redridge--tools
The problem right now is just time, I'm trying to add some of these videos to my schedule so they may start showing up in the next few months!
❤
magnificent job my brother, but I guarantee you'll be making more of those soon! lol
I'd love to make a couple more eventually, we'll have to see how long it take me to fill this one up!
Get Hock plane & chip breaker blades for your old Stanleys, they're thicker, less chatter & drop in fit. Highly recommended, make an old Stanley run like a Veritas
Those are interesting, I was planning on getting the Veritas replacement blade but the Hock is definitely more affordable. Thanks for letting me know about the brand, I'll keep it in mind if I decided to upgrade the blade!
Regarding the difference between modern and antique planes, I have to agree.
My first plane was also a low angle jack, but I now only break it out for working with end grain. The lighter Stanley planes are just far more pleasant to use.
What I'm really interesting in trying is a Lie-Nielson, I know they're basically Bedrock clones so it would interesting to see if they are equality as comfortable as the older planes, I just have to save up for a few years!
@@morganhurst_redridge Yeah, they are a bit pricy....
Nice build, I would have made the slides a bit shorter running into stopped grooves so to preserve the entirety of the front but I understand it would have taken more time.
Also planing the drawers from both ends (stopping half way) would eliminate the risk of tearing out the finger joints.
Overall really a nice build, looking forward to the apothecary one using the dovetail bit instead of the straight one, apothecary furniture is classy 😉
I was going to do the slides that way but when I was working on the 3D model, I really liked the look of the slides poking out. I think they add that nice spot of walnut on the drawer fronts.
I've started the design of a small apothecary cabinet but it's going to be a while, I'm realizing now that not only are they a decent amount of work but the amount of materials gets crazy expensive!
@@morganhurst_redridge I see, to reduce the costs a bit maybe consider using clear acrylic sheets for some part of the build, they can highlight the content really nicely as well
@@alessandrosuppini943 I should've done the side panel with acrylic! I'll have to keep that in mind for a future project, thanks!
Hyde glue seems to be the new hotness. Whats old is new haha. It definitely looks to have its favorable uses.
I picked up a Woodriver #6 as it had a pretty good price. People say its heavy but it doesnt really seem like it in using it for a time.
Did you happen to slightly taper the drawers as well?
The dark brass looks good with that wood.
I promise I was trying to use hide glue before it became a trend! It is kind of funny seeing people like myself coming to terms with the idea that you don't always need the strength of titebond 3.
I've been looking at the Woodriver planes for a while now, I'm really interested in getting a 5 1/2", and I may go with Woodriver if I can't find an old Stanley.
I tapered one of the drawers and it actually caused some annoying issues. The bottom drawer is slightly tapered because I thought it would help guide it into place but what I found is that if there is any side to side movement at the back end of the drawer, it jams more often. With the rest of the drawers I just worked the sides until the drawer fit, did a couple extra passes so it would slide freely and that made the drawers very smooth.
You had me right up until the end, is that a MDF panel in the back?!?
Hardboard actually, it's cheap, easy to work with and for an area that's never going to be seen it's just about the best option!
@@morganhurst_redridge Nah man, get some scraps, put some shiplap on there, make it nice even if you never see it again.
@@morganhurst_redridgeI always ask myself if doing something the fancy way when it doesn’t matter ‘is this going too teach me something or give me practice with something I’m not good at?’ Because if you can’t see it and it doesn’t make you better then there literally no point in doing it. Now if it was something I’ve never done before I would probably do it the fancy way because that would help teach me how to do it "right’. But if I know how to do it right already then doing it one more time doesn’t really help. It just wastes time and materials.
Somebody told me that Hide glue is much better for 45 degree angles on furniture and the box/dovetail joints. It helps the joints fill into each other far better. I don't know if that is true yet bcos I haven't made box joints yet..
How do u handle the dust in ur shop Morgan? It's driving me round the bend atm./ I hadn't been out to my little shop for a few days after using the jointer and even though it wasn't that messy it and my mitre saw left so much dust on everything. I went out last night to get some things to finish something I was working on in the house and I couldn't believe how much dust was on everything.
I was jointing/thicknessing some old boards for something I want to build and the dust from that alone wasn't as bad as I thought it might be but I was cutting some skirting on the mitre saw and it was so messy with no dust extraction on the thing..
Oh my days the dust last night was everywhere.. I have to go out and clean it this evening now and I'm not looking forward to it atm.. LOL
U love ur touch of Walnut bro.. heehee! U are using it well though man. Credit to ya for another fine build..
For a beginner like me could u give me one piece of advice to keep myself motivated to get into the shop every day even if it's only for an hour to begin with??
Thanks for this video Morgan. Great work gain pal..
Hide glue is hands down the best for any form of joinery because it lubricates the joint, helping things like dovetails or box joints to slide together nicely!
For dust, look into getting an air filter, I have the Wen air filter from Amazon and even though it's too small for my shop it makes a huge difference for the amount of dust that builds up on stuff. Another trick I use is to keep my shop vac in a convenient spot and plugged in, that way when I make a mess I'm more likely to grab the hose and clean it up right away.
The best way to get motivated for woodworking is to make sure you're passionate about the project, which isn't always possible so sometimes it's going to be a little forced but when you're trying to decide what project to do next try to pick something that will be a bit of a challenge or teach you something new, for me that's what keeps me going!
I will admit I get that feeling all the time though, where I just don't want to do any woodworking and when that hits I try to do something else like video games or going for a walk. If you try to force yourself too much you'll end up making woodworking a chore and it'll never be fun!
@@morganhurst_redridge Thanks man. That's some great advice. I'm about to start something myself this coming week. Take it easy Morgan and thanks again..
Thanks for sharing. I am at most a month about from starting Christian Becksvoort's 15 drawer chest to hold small items in my shop. Don't like the plastic bins. I figure my dovetails by hand will greatly improve by the time I'm done.
I don't own a machine router. As such, I often use my plough plane. What I have done is use a contrasting wood such as ebony or maple to make a feature out of the gaps.
By any chance could you please consider making a RUclips video talking through how you edit the video to make a RUclips video. I can find how to RUclips video editing. However, much of them delve too deeply into things. If I were every to do a RUclips video, it would be like your style with voice over.
Could you talk a bit more about the wooden fence you added to your PowerMatic table top mortiser? I have the same mortiser and immediately understand why that fence would be helpful. Would love any further insights you have about it.
I can't post a video here about how I edit the videos because the RUclips algorithm is pretty picky about what I post to my channel and right now I need to appease the all powerful algorithm. I'm happy to walk you through the steps though, just head over to my website and shoot me an email.
For the mortiser base, this is just version one and I'm still working out some of the kinks but when I put together version two there will definitely be a video! So far it's be an absolute game changer for the functionality of the mortiser and I'm looking forward to making version two very soon.
Nice stuff, as always. What place in Calgary do you get your wood?
I get most of my lumber from PJ White, they're in south calgary about 10 minutes from lee valley. They're a commercial supplier so lumbers alot cheaper but you do have to buy full boards. Overall, I highly recommend checking them out!
I tried replying to your reply to my original comment, but everytime I do, it doesnt actually send for some reason so I'll make a new one here.
I went to PJ's website and they have a lot of stuff for sale, all but lumber. Is the lumber that you purchase something that you go in in-person and see what they have in stock, or do you give them a call and put in a request order?
Thanks for all your info, man!
That website is for the Richelieu brand in general, they bought out PJ a few years ago. Funny enough you can't actually buy
Richelieu hardware at PJ even though Richelieu owns them!
The best thing to do is just go in the front door and the person behind the counter will let you know the prices and whatnot. They don't have a wide selection of lumber you can pick through, but they typically have a lot of the basic domestics (walnut, both oaks, ash, cherry, maple, poplar, alder). I think they do carry some other woods but those are the ones that are easily available to pick through. They also have basically every type of sheet good you could ever want.
Then you'll go in the back, dig through the piles to find what you want, then the guys at the shipping counter will count it up, you'll pay in the front and be good to go.
For a little bit of reference on my last trip, I bought some 8/4 cherry for $7.95/bdft. Compared to Black Forest at $10.95/bdft, it's not massive savings but it does help. Also, they are the single best source for cherry in Calgary, most of the times I've bought cherry from them it's solid heartwood, as the pile gets low you'll get some worse stuff but most of the time even the "worse" stuff is pretty awesome!
@@morganhurst_redridge Imo, that's a sizable savings worth coming back for, especially when the more you buy. I'm heading to Calgary next weekend, so I will definitely be checking them out & hopefully find some good cherry! Thanks
Sorry I should've mentioned, they're only open during the week from 8am - 4:30pm, which might make it a little inconvenient to get there!
comments and thoughts
Awesome build. And the video is great too. But man you talk too much! You don't have to explain each and every little step you do. Try to reduce the voice-over a bit and let the video do the talking. Just my 2 cents
These videos are targeted more towards new woodworkers so explaining the steps is an important part of help people understand why I'm making certain decision during the project. I know this style of video isn't for everyone, but it's the style that helped me learn, so I'm going to keep making them this way.
If you'd like to see the videos without the voices overs, check out my other channel that's just the "raw" video with the shop sounds.
www.youtube.com/@redridge-shopsounds
@@morganhurst_redridge Keep talking mate. Never a problem
My 1½ cents-I don’t mind the amount of talking; however, as a gentle suggestion, could you consider slowing down your narration some? The best narrators enunciate each word distinctly, and include frequent pauses between sentences and phrases. Just a thought. Your video(s), so you get make your choices.
@@rogerlove7588 I appreciate the suggestion, I've never been good at public speaking and definitely have a tendency to talk at light speed, but I promise I'm working on it!
As someone who likes narration there is a never ending battle between those who want commentary and those of you who just want silent woodworking. I assure you there are dozens of woodworking channels who never say anything. Look into the Japanese channels as they seem to be mostly silent. Plus I think it’s a fair compromise to tell you guys to just mute the video and put on some smooth jazz in another tab if that’s what you want. Since I can’t put on commentary in the background, the logical compromise is for you to mute the video if you don’t want talking. Sorry you won’t get to hear the tool noise but again there are plenty of channels that are (unwatchable to me) silent woodworking.
I can't ever enjoy watching your videos because your talk entirely too much. The incessant rambling completely ruins the experience of watching your create something.
I'm glad to hear that, thank you!