The moisture pen and test strips made me money. I was the only one in the shop with them. You just have to train the service advisor what the readings mean. Once the service advisors are trained you will get another one to three gravy brake jobs a week. I think it might also protect you from a law suit if some declines a brake job and you show they needed brakes. Not sure about that last sentence. Thanks for the video.
I was born in 94 an I love doing drum brakes my neighbor gave me his old school snap on kit of drum brake tools like all of them. Pliers , the spoon spring compressor and an array of different clip pliers for all the different kinds drum brakes u may run into working on some of the older trucks and cars I work on. Frm is right I was given that snappy drum brake kit and I bought one myself from liysel from Napa I think it was worth the money drum brakes have made me good money.
For measuring dished rotors, I have a plastic $15 harbor freight calipers and since it's plastic, I used a rat tail file and cut two half Moon grooves on the inner part of the jaws to make room for the out ridge of rotors. Works great
Drum brake spring pliers! Cam-turn spring hook releaser! A must have when you're doing drums on one ton trucks. They both help release the springs and put the new ones on. As much as people hate doing drums I usually get seven to eight years out of mine in extreme cold and salt, probably because the drum protects the brake components better.
Good video. I went a long time with just the cheapo 4-sided cube for winding back caliper pistons. After getting a good tool, I kicked myself for waiting so long. Saves a ton or time. Along with what you mentioned, the best drum brake tool is the Snap on BT-11. If you do single spring drum brakes (which I really hate) you'll need something like the Lisle #50600. And if you do Chrysler or many import drum brakes you might want to consider a Lisle #48400. Those "leaf spring" clips used to drive me crazy. And one more handy item, Lisle #45100 clamps on brake springs, although needle nose vice grips work pretty good too. And no, I wasn't paid by Lisle to post this. It's just that most tool trucks sell their stuff re-branded.
I’ve done drums twice at my dealership in the last 2 years. I’m fine with that. I’ll do clean and adjusts on them all day though. That’s pretty gravy for me. I use a combo of the lisle single piston (sometimes add a pad when needed,) the Matco branded ratcheting tool, and my less used Matco turn back set. They all come in handy. Fluid testers come in clutch. I also have a good vacuum bleeder. Makes life so much cleaner and easy.
Good to see you recommend that Lang tool. Been meaning to pick one up, but naturally being in Australia it costs about 20 million dollars. Need to be certain it's a good product at these prices.
I have that Lang #279 brake caliper press and was good money spent on it.Gets used a lot now.So far on putting in the old brake pads to use it was on a 2011 F150 just to push the pistons back in.I have the 18 piece Matco rear caliper windback tool set,works good.Checking brake rotors,the cooling fins are to check as well.Toss them if they are badly rusted out.Causes so many pulsation problems.I do remember the early GM W body cars using the T60 torx bit on the front brakes.These bolts were on so tight.Lisle is johnny on the spot for warranties,will send you a replacement emailing them.I have done it before
FRM, I would like to hear your take on working efficiently vs cutting corners, and where you draw the line between “getting the job done fast” and “getting the job done right”? IMO, I strive to be as efficient as possible, while still doing the same quality of work, as I refuse to sacrifice quality in the name of speed. I’m all for buying tools and trying new things to make jobs easier/faster. But I’ve seen lots of “techs” sacrifice quality in the name of speed by either skipping steps, butchering/hacking up something instead of removing it properly, or in the worst cases just flat out not doing the work. Example, when I worked at the dealer and did a brake job, I’d lube the slide pins, clean the rust from the bracket where the rattle clips sit, put anti-seize under the clips, brake lube above where the pads ride, anti-seize on the hub if I was replacing rotors, properly torque the caliper bracket and lug nuts, etc. The other guys in the shop, however, just slapped the new pads in the calipers, never changed rattle clips, never lubricated anything, ran the bracket bolts and lug nuts down with their impact and shipped it out the door, and that’s not right IMO. Would love to hear your take on this, think this would also make for an interesting video.
I feel that if labor times were fair (which lots of them aren't, especially here in the rust belt or if you're working in a dealership doing warranty work) then flat rate is the best compensation plan for a tech IMO, as long as the shop can keep enough vehicles coming through the door, or if they offer some kind of weekly hour guarantee to make up for the slow times (30-35 hour a week guarantee). But I do agree that flat rate seems to breed this attitude of "quantity over quality" "get em' in, take em' for all you can and get em' out the door as fast as possible". Also, lots of shops don't seem to know the happy medium between "working efficiently" and "rushing through a job" and most favor speed over quality. Always said while working at the dealer that they would rather have something done quickly and half assed than done slower but done right! The pressure to produce work quickly is pushed to absolute absurdity by people who've never worked on a car in their lives and don't understand the first thing about what it takes to repair a car properly! All they know is numbers and "sell, sell, sell". Pencil pushing business grad bean counter service managers think that everything can be done in 15 minutes and always have that smug, clueless grin on their face, unaware of their own ignorance and proud of it. As I said before, I strive to be as efficient as possible without letting quality suffer. High school shop teacher always told us "Focus on doing the job RIGHT and the speed will come naturally." Can't stand the guys in this business who say things like "You need to hustle more, you need to be faster!" ETCG pointed this out one time, that he would get pissed if someone said he was "fast". Don't call me fast, because that implies cutting corners or not doing a job properly, call me "efficient" because I did the job correctly AND as quickly as possible.
The correct calipers are important even if the rotors aren’t grooved. A lot of the time the rotors will get a lip so standard calipers won’t measure the rotor it’ll measure the lip. My shop only requires measurements when we are requesting new rotors, if we are cutting them I guess they assumed me measured and there is meat left on the rotors. Good info in this video 👍
My lisle caliper tool that you have lasted me 17 years...excellent tool... The permatex grease unfortunately swells the rubber bushings on Toyota brake caliper pins...causing them to bind so I prefer to use Toyota rubber grease..
A big screwdriver works for the gm horseshoe springs. Quicker than the right tool on flat rate lol in pa an inspection shop is required to have a disc brake mic or they will shut you down if you're missing any inspection tools..
When I looked into buying that tester the description said it was for DOT 3 fluid only. Saw another guy use it to test DOT 5 fluid. Will it still be accurate?
6:19~6:20 "four millimeters you want ?????". Played that one second 30+ times but could not understand that last word (?????). Also, another LANG 279 video comment stated that the problem with the Lang 279 was that it required another person to hold the caliper else remove caliper and put it in a vice. Is that true? ALL of my many brake tool questions were answered in this one video. GOOD JOB!
No, this is not true about the Lang. Hold the caliper in one hand, the Lang in another, slide the Lang into the caliper, and start ratcheting. The easiest way is to put the caliper down on a five gallon bucket.
I just bought that lang tools brake caliper tool and I went to use it but it was too wide for rear brakes on a camry. I know it will have its use but I have to buy the lisle one now as well
Brakes are gravy....Hmm I’ll try to remember that the next time I change the rotors on a truck with a Dana Spicer two speed rear axle. Or the old style 4x4 ford captive front rotors
Thanks Flat Rate Master Another Great Video 😎👨🏼🔧👩🏻🔧👍🏼 The Harbor Freight Set is a Great Value Just Don’t Go By the Chinese Application Guide that Comes With it And U are “Golden” 😎👍🏼👩🏻🔧👨🏼🔧
Drum rear parking brakes are great until you have to do the rotors. That's where your pick tools are good for disengaging the star wheels...as opposed to trying to use a screwdriver.
As far as the brake grease goes, my shop just provides the black brakes grease but I don't like to use that on sliding pins. I prefer using silicone paste/die electric grease. What are your thoughts and do you put brake grease on the ears of the brake pads where they slide on the metal clips attached to the brake caliper bracket?
I love my one I get for 10 bucks at autozone or any place that sells tools it’s a thing of metal in the shape of a pad with a thick bolt in the middle with a flat surface on the stud u just twist it and it works very easily I have four of them cause sometimes I get the two piston or brembo 4 pistons and my 10 dollar tool does it super easy on my hands. For rear brakes that are twist type I have to different blue point cubes with diffent style teeth on all the sides but one is flat so u can put it on ur extension and ratchet or directly on ratchet I’ve yet to run into automotive or even light medium duty brakes I couldn’t do with those tools now for heavy duty it’s a lil different lol. Mainly need lady slippers special pliers and a few other odds and ends to make semi truck brake jobs easier and faster then cars especially if your shop has tools to help take the wheel off and the drum so u don’t have to wrestle them on and off and hurt your back.
I.... hate..... drumbrakes!!!! But im surprised you didnt show that scissor looking tool they use to get the retention springs backin lol. Snap on makes a really good screwdriver looking tool for that
Glad I’m not the only one that hates drum brakes, Horrible inferior technology! Btw I have a nice brake measuring tool that is like the first one you showed but the ends are bent 90 degrees so you can stick them in the calipers even when you have virtually no access, I don’t see any shops use this style but I can’t imagine why. They can measure pretty much any brake pad without removing the wheel. Edit: found they are lisle part number 81850
Never came across the pnematic version for retracting pistons. Does it wind counter clock wise? Did rear brakes on a Transit the other day where the pistons retracted in opposite directions from side to side. Another great video! Well done!
Shawn McHargue Thanks Shawn...Do you own this tool? My worry was, it retracting so quickly, that there is potential to rip the boot. It's manual with some kind of assist. I personally would like to feel the piston retract.
Frank Totino I work with FRM so it’s the same shop tool he’s talking about. It does not turn too quickly nor does it assist in turning it just keeps a constant pressure on the piston. The Harbor Frieght ones always loosen pressure while you turn it and you have to adjust it while this tool it constantly has pressure.
I only do my own car brakes and my moms i still use a c clamp and old brake pad have been for 25 years now and it works fine. when it comes to the rear brakes I have a tool for the rear piston if needed . im not flate rate and or on a time limit.
The brake fluid moisture meter is a very inaccurate tool, because it tests for electrical conductivity. I know one would think the more conductive the more moisture. Not the case because of different manufacturing practices. Some brake fluid is more conductive then others. So that being said that tester would have to be calibrated for the specific manufactures fluid. The only universal moisture tester per say would be one that tests the actual boiling point.
Dang they make tools for drum brakes. I did drum brakes with basic tools and needle nose pliers and by the end of the job I wanted to cut my wrists just to end it all.
My friend Dave Ramsey would say you don't need all those tools you can get by with less and save for your future and give more of your money to others!
The shop I was at, everyone used the same Caliper. It was rare that the rotors could be turned, almost all where badly grooved, or had "holes/pits". It's dependent on the area your shop is located, for which tools are needed. People would come in for a oil change or tires, or noise complaint, and leave with new brakes. Kinda scary. I have had to wear leather gloves to take tires off, more then you should. (and put them back....)
Got to be nice working on cars in the south, I am on the outer edge of the rust belt. So I get clean cars and rusted out POS, I have seen a few old ONT cars, man it sucks to work on them. I might invest in a .498 air hammer, the Snap on is good but I need a bit more power. Liking the videos you have put out, far more useful then just standard fare DIY videos on youtube. Keep them up. You better not do any DIY repair videos man. :) I like the "calking gun" type brake tool, however the Lang, a cheap rear brake tool kit, and large channel locks. Have worked great for me, and been fast. The rust will slow you down.
I have a bunch of tools for drum brakes but when I went to go do the drum breaks on my son's '06 Escape last month I couldn't use any of them. For some reason Ford decided to fix what wasn't broken & changed to a shittier design IMO.
I agree with you. Drum brakes are dumb brakes. There is absolutely no reason for any modern car to have them. If I see drum brakes on a car I won’t buy it.
Using channel locks or C clamps to compress the piston back into the caliper is not a good idea because some people have painted calipers or upgraded after market calibers. I always say use the correct tool or don’t do it at all🤷♂️
I got no special tools for drum brakes. To me its a waste of money. I get drum brakes done with a flat head and needle nose vise grips. I can do any drum brakes done with them
I sure hope you are pinching off the line, opening the bleeder, and pushing the fluid out and not back into the system. That's a good way to ruin an abs system real quick.... As far as rear calipers that you twist the piston back in. If you can't twist the piston in with a pair of needle nose pliers, the caliper is junk
I have had the discussion about opening bleeder screws with many brake engineers, there was just a discussion on this on Iatn and the tech guy from a leading brake manufacturer stated as such, those abs valves are normally closed, so pushing the fluid back does nothing to the abs. FYI, pinching off a modern brake hoses with a liner will destroy it, and you now get to buy brake hoses
The moisture pen and test strips made me money. I was the only one in the shop with them. You just have to train the service advisor what the readings mean. Once the service advisors are trained you will get another one to three gravy brake jobs a week. I think it might also protect you from a law suit if some declines a brake job and you show they needed brakes. Not sure about that last sentence. Thanks for the video.
I was born in 94 an I love doing drum brakes my neighbor gave me his old school snap on kit of drum brake tools like all of them. Pliers , the spoon spring compressor and an array of different clip pliers for all the different kinds drum brakes u may run into working on some of the older trucks and cars I work on. Frm is right I was given that snappy drum brake kit and I bought one myself from liysel from Napa I think it was worth the money drum brakes have made me good money.
For measuring dished rotors, I have a plastic $15 harbor freight calipers and since it's plastic, I used a rat tail file and cut two half Moon grooves on the inner part of the jaws to make room for the out ridge of rotors. Works great
After all thses years I still do not like working on drum brake ! Good video !
Drum brake spring pliers! Cam-turn spring hook releaser! A must have when you're doing drums on one ton trucks. They both help release the springs and put the new ones on. As much as people hate doing drums I usually get seven to eight years out of mine in extreme cold and salt, probably because the drum protects the brake components better.
Another cool video👍🏻 this should help some Young technicians out there.
Good video. I went a long time with just the cheapo 4-sided cube for winding back caliper pistons. After getting a good tool, I kicked myself for waiting so long. Saves a ton or time. Along with what you mentioned, the best drum brake tool is the Snap on BT-11. If you do single spring drum brakes (which I really hate) you'll need something like the Lisle #50600. And if you do Chrysler or many import drum brakes you might want to consider a Lisle #48400. Those "leaf spring" clips used to drive me crazy. And one more handy item, Lisle #45100 clamps on brake springs, although needle nose vice grips work pretty good too. And no, I wasn't paid by Lisle to post this. It's just that most tool trucks sell their stuff re-branded.
I’ve done drums twice at my dealership in the last 2 years. I’m fine with that. I’ll do clean and adjusts on them all day though. That’s pretty gravy for me.
I use a combo of the lisle single piston (sometimes add a pad when needed,) the Matco branded ratcheting tool, and my less used Matco turn back set. They all come in handy.
Fluid testers come in clutch. I also have a good vacuum bleeder. Makes life so much cleaner and easy.
Good to see you recommend that Lang tool. Been meaning to pick one up, but naturally being in Australia it costs about 20 million dollars. Need to be certain it's a good product at these prices.
i absolutely love the version of lang caliper tool!! makes it a breeze
Thank you for sharing. This information on brake tools was useful.
I love being able to stop gives me a real sense of safety.
I have that Lang #279 brake caliper press and was good money spent on it.Gets used a lot now.So far on putting in the old brake pads to use it was on a 2011 F150 just to push the pistons back in.I have the 18 piece Matco rear caliper windback tool set,works good.Checking brake rotors,the cooling fins are to check as well.Toss them if they are badly rusted out.Causes so many pulsation problems.I do remember the early GM W body cars using the T60 torx bit on the front brakes.These bolts were on so tight.Lisle is johnny on the spot for warranties,will send you a replacement emailing them.I have done it before
FRM, I would like to hear your take on working efficiently vs cutting corners, and where you draw the line between “getting the job done fast” and “getting the job done right”?
IMO, I strive to be as efficient as possible, while still doing the same quality of work, as I refuse to sacrifice quality in the name of speed. I’m all for buying tools and
trying new things to make jobs easier/faster. But I’ve seen lots of “techs” sacrifice quality in the name of speed by either skipping steps, butchering/hacking up something instead of removing it properly, or in the worst cases just flat out not doing the work.
Example, when I worked at the dealer and did a brake job, I’d lube the slide pins, clean the rust from the bracket where the rattle clips sit, put anti-seize under the clips, brake lube above where the pads ride, anti-seize on the hub if I was replacing rotors, properly torque the caliper bracket and lug nuts, etc. The other guys in the
shop, however, just slapped the new pads in the calipers, never changed rattle
clips, never lubricated anything, ran the bracket bolts and lug nuts down with
their impact and shipped it out the door, and that’s not right IMO.
Would love to hear your take on this, think this would also make for an interesting video.
I feel that if labor times were fair (which lots of them aren't, especially here in the rust belt or if you're working in a dealership doing warranty work) then flat rate is the best compensation plan for a tech IMO, as long as the shop can keep enough vehicles coming through the door, or if they offer some kind of weekly hour guarantee to make up for the slow times (30-35 hour a week guarantee).
But I do agree that flat rate seems to breed this attitude of "quantity over quality" "get em' in, take em' for all you can and get em' out the door as fast as possible". Also, lots of shops don't seem to know the happy medium between "working efficiently" and "rushing through a job" and most favor speed over quality. Always said while working at the dealer that they would rather have something done quickly and half assed than done slower but done right!
The pressure to produce work quickly is pushed to absolute absurdity by people who've never worked on a car in their lives and don't understand the first thing about what it takes to repair a car properly! All they know is numbers and "sell, sell, sell". Pencil pushing business grad bean counter service managers think that everything can be done in 15 minutes and always have that smug, clueless grin on their face, unaware of their own ignorance and proud of it.
As I said before, I strive to be as efficient as possible without letting quality suffer. High school shop teacher always told us "Focus on doing the job RIGHT and the speed will come naturally." Can't stand the guys in this business who say things like "You need to hustle more, you need to be faster!" ETCG pointed this out one time, that he would get pissed if someone said he was "fast". Don't call me fast, because that implies cutting corners or not doing a job properly, call me "efficient" because I did the job correctly AND as quickly as possible.
this is the exact video I've been waiting for someone e to make. just a diyer but I never knew which style to get. (Going with the lang)
It is a very good tool!
The correct calipers are important even if the rotors aren’t grooved. A lot of the time the rotors will get a lip so standard calipers won’t measure the rotor it’ll measure the lip. My shop only requires measurements when we are requesting new rotors, if we are cutting them I guess they assumed me measured and there is meat left on the rotors. Good info in this video 👍
Permatex is gold! Green and purple!
My lisle caliper tool that you have lasted me 17 years...excellent tool...
The permatex grease unfortunately swells the rubber bushings on Toyota brake caliper pins...causing them to bind so I prefer to use Toyota rubber grease..
I do not use the Permatex on rubber, I use silcone paste
@@flatratemaster i use super lube on slide pins, works well
A big screwdriver works for the gm horseshoe springs. Quicker than the right tool on flat rate lol in pa an inspection shop is required to have a disc brake mic or they will shut you down if you're missing any inspection tools..
That is the method I use, we do not have any inspection here other than emissions
A good air hammer is handy for getting those rust welded rotors free from the hub. They are worth it just for the time they save.
I like the Lang caliper tool / press. Versatile and compact.
I love brake jobs... most of the time... when they don't involve drum brakes!
When I looked into buying that tester the description said it was for DOT 3 fluid only. Saw another guy use it to test DOT 5 fluid. Will it still be accurate?
6:19~6:20 "four millimeters you want ?????". Played that one second 30+ times but could not understand that last word (?????). Also, another LANG 279 video comment stated that the problem with the Lang 279 was that it required another person to hold the caliper else remove caliper and put it in a vice. Is that true? ALL of my many brake tool questions were answered in this one video. GOOD JOB!
No, this is not true about the Lang. Hold the caliper in one hand, the Lang in another, slide the Lang into the caliper, and start ratcheting. The easiest way is to put the caliper down on a five gallon bucket.
I bought the astro windback one from mac it's been great. Have had it for about 5 yrs now
I love drum brakes on larger vehicles but hate those tiny drum brake systems on small cars.
I just bought that lang tools brake caliper tool and I went to use it but it was too wide for rear brakes on a camry. I know it will have its use but I have to buy the lisle one now as well
Brakes are gravy....Hmm I’ll try to remember that the next time I change the rotors on a truck with a Dana Spicer two speed rear axle. Or the old style 4x4 ford captive front rotors
That's one thing I don't miss about my old 1990 Accord.
I've had a set of those horse shoe spreaders for years and thought they were for some odd circlip or something. LOL
LOL!
My favorite use for that caliper micrometer tool is to check wheel offset eith aftermarket wheels to see which size hub ring i should be using
siliglide works well for lubing too. Good video frm.
Drum brakes is like a art
Again Thanks for the video, definitely need to update some of my brake tools.
Great video man, the only good drum brakes to do are air brakes so easy to do
I didn't know drum brakes were uncommon. We have TONS in northern Michigan.
I was first in our shop to get the moisture tester. within 6 months, everyone had 1.
LOL!
Thanks Flat Rate Master Another Great Video 😎👨🏼🔧👩🏻🔧👍🏼 The Harbor Freight Set is a Great Value Just Don’t Go By the Chinese Application Guide that Comes With it And U are “Golden” 😎👍🏼👩🏻🔧👨🏼🔧
Fly rate master does the best reviews
Drum rear parking brakes are great until you have to do the rotors. That's where your pick tools are good for disengaging the star wheels...as opposed to trying to use a screwdriver.
As far as the brake grease goes, my shop just provides the black brakes grease but I don't like to use that on sliding pins. I prefer using silicone paste/die electric grease. What are your thoughts and do you put brake grease on the ears of the brake pads where they slide on the metal clips attached to the brake caliper bracket?
I love my one I get for 10 bucks at autozone or any place that sells tools it’s a thing of metal in the shape of a pad with a thick bolt in the middle with a flat surface on the stud u just twist it and it works very easily I have four of them cause sometimes I get the two piston or brembo 4 pistons and my 10 dollar tool does it super easy on my hands. For rear brakes that are twist type I have to different blue point cubes with diffent style teeth on all the sides but one is flat so u can put it on ur extension and ratchet or directly on ratchet I’ve yet to run into automotive or even light medium duty brakes I couldn’t do with those tools now for heavy duty it’s a lil different lol. Mainly need lady slippers special pliers and a few other odds and ends to make semi truck brake jobs easier and faster then cars especially if your shop has tools to help take the wheel off and the drum so u don’t have to wrestle them on and off and hurt your back.
I wat to see more of the last 2 pliers and there is no link for those below the video
I.... hate..... drumbrakes!!!! But im surprised you didnt show that scissor looking tool they use to get the retention springs backin lol. Snap on makes a really good screwdriver looking tool for that
I have never had good luck with that tool, I just use vise grips
Can the pneumatic tool at the end replace all the other wind back tools you previously mentioned in the video?
Glad I’m not the only one that hates drum brakes, Horrible inferior technology! Btw I have a nice brake measuring tool that is like the first one you showed but the ends are bent 90 degrees so you can stick them in the calipers even when you have virtually no access, I don’t see any shops use this style but I can’t imagine why. They can measure pretty much any brake pad without removing the wheel. Edit: found they are lisle part number 81850
Never came across the pnematic version for retracting pistons. Does it wind counter clock wise?
Did rear brakes on a Transit the other day where the pistons retracted in opposite directions from side to side.
Another great video! Well done!
Frank Totino the pressure is pneumatic but the turn handle is manual so you can twist it either way.
Shawn McHargue
Thanks Shawn...Do you own this tool? My worry was, it retracting so quickly, that there is potential to rip the boot.
It's manual with some kind of assist. I personally would like to
feel the piston retract.
Frank Totino I work with FRM so it’s the same shop tool he’s talking about. It does not turn too quickly nor does it assist in turning it just keeps a constant pressure on the piston. The Harbor Frieght ones always loosen pressure while you turn it and you have to adjust it while this tool it constantly has pressure.
Shawn McHargue
Didn't get it until now...thanks.
Is he as much as a task master that he appears to be:) lol
Have a great weekend!
Nice tie fighter.
Hahaha😂😂😂😂 love that to cheap too buy the right one. Great video
I only do my own car brakes and my moms i still use a c clamp and old brake pad have been for 25 years now and it works fine. when it comes to the rear brakes I have a tool for the rear piston if needed . im not flate rate and or on a time limit.
I prefer the smallest pry bar from the cheap 4 pry bar sets like the set from harbor freight instead of the brake spoon.
The brake fluid moisture meter is a very inaccurate tool, because it tests for electrical conductivity. I know one would think the more conductive the more moisture. Not the case because of different manufacturing practices. Some brake fluid is more conductive then others. So that being said that tester would have to be calibrated for the specific manufactures fluid. The only universal moisture tester per say would be one that tests the actual boiling point.
Thank you great 👍 stuff
What no love for drum breaks. Tell us how you really feel about them. Is that one of those jobs that you give to the primadonna?
love me some brake drums.
thats some funny shit, both accounts are made hours apart lmfao
@@GhostlyDelinquent I've seen them on other sites the same two accounts.
Dang they make tools for drum brakes. I did drum brakes with basic tools and needle nose pliers and by the end of the job I wanted to cut my wrists just to end it all.
My friend Dave Ramsey would say you don't need all those tools you can get by with less and save for your future and give more of your money to others!
Dave Ramsey changes his brake pads at 2mm and declines the gravy brake flush...
Dave ramsey leasing cars so he don't need maintenance
Dave Ramsey Uses 100,000 Mile Oil Change Intervals He is an Environmentalist like Al Gore The Global Warming Guru 😅😅😅LOFL
Budget tools
Shut up Troll
RAM TRUCKS wow name calling not cool
i def need the tool for floating calipers.
Does it work for Chevy express 2500?
very good video.
Thank you!
Pressure or vacuum bleed? =)
+Thomas EXOVCDS pressure!
AutoZone has the Lang tool under powerbuilt brand
You left out one MAJOR
drum brake tool such as
the snap on BT-11
Great video !
I still have mine I bought in the early 80s.
I didn't see a link to the measurement tools
Make sure you grease the brake pad real good... So it doesnt squeak when u use them
LOL
Very important step there. They say put it on contact points right? The brake pad is definitely a contact point.
The shop I was at, everyone used the same Caliper. It was rare that the rotors could be turned, almost all where badly grooved, or had "holes/pits". It's dependent on the area your shop is located, for which tools are needed. People would come in for a oil change or tires, or noise complaint, and leave with new brakes.
Kinda scary. I have had to wear leather gloves to take tires off, more then you should. (and put them back....)
That sucks!, Being in the south, changes things for me compared to the Rust belt
Got to be nice working on cars in the south, I am on the outer edge of the rust belt. So I get clean cars and rusted out POS, I have seen a few old ONT cars, man it sucks to work on them. I might invest in a .498 air hammer, the Snap on is good but I need a bit more power.
Liking the videos you have put out, far more useful then just standard fare DIY videos on youtube. Keep them up. You better not do any DIY repair videos man. :)
I like the "calking gun" type brake tool, however the Lang, a cheap rear brake tool kit, and large channel locks. Have worked great for me, and been fast. The rust will slow you down.
Appreciated very informative.
Thanks
Have you used the lisle rear caliper tool 29350? If so, what did you think about it?
+BareSkin Warrior i have not used it
Flat Rate Master thank you
Good info here.
Thank you
No info on silicone paste? Always grease the caliper pins.
The Permatex Ceramic Extreme he shows in the vid is about the best thing you can buy for slide pins.
BigBeansM3 thanks for the good info
0:2:10, O'Reilly Auto, $50. C-Clamp and a used brake pad/thin piece of wood, $5.
Before you discovered slide glyde.
You can buy the Lang one at oreilys
I used to work for a guy who used wheel bearing grease and not even good grease I'm talking about the cheapest crap he could find
drum brakes go away!
I use c clamp while caliper is still on car instead of holding it
I have a bunch of tools for drum brakes but when I went to go do the drum breaks on my son's '06 Escape last month I couldn't use any of them. For some reason Ford decided to fix what wasn't broken & changed to a shittier design IMO.
LOL
he didn't mention a drum rotor puller
I am in the south, so a couple raps with a hammer normally gets them off
Big c clamp adjustable locking pliers for calipers and for rear calipers needle nose pliers to turn the piston back all you need
What you're presenting are not basic brake tools for handy DIY Mechanic but for Professional Mechanic.
Yes you sure as hell don't want to be pushing in those pistons with a C clamp all day long.
Hot Lanta
Those little horse shoe clips are the worst I hate them and hate drum brakes in general
I agree with you. Drum brakes are dumb brakes. There is absolutely no reason for any modern car to have them. If I see drum brakes on a car I won’t buy it.
I sell a brake job at 4mm or lower.
Using channel locks or C clamps to compress the piston back into the caliper is not a good idea because some people have painted calipers or upgraded after market calibers.
I always say use the correct tool or don’t do it at all🤷♂️
For most cars, not going to matter, but i do agree that a proper tool is best, but this is for beginning techs
I got no special tools for drum brakes. To me its a waste of money. I get drum brakes done with a flat head and needle nose vise grips. I can do any drum brakes done with them
Your shop need ac
Drum brake springs suck
Yep they do
I get a lot of drum brakes were I work
Buuuuut
I sure hope you are pinching off the line, opening the bleeder, and pushing the fluid out and not back into the system. That's a good way to ruin an abs system real quick.... As far as rear calipers that you twist the piston back in. If you can't twist the piston in with a pair of needle nose pliers, the caliper is junk
I have had the discussion about opening bleeder screws with many brake engineers, there was just a discussion on this on Iatn and the tech guy from a leading brake manufacturer stated as such, those abs valves are normally closed, so pushing the fluid back does nothing to the abs. FYI, pinching off a modern brake hoses with a liner will destroy it, and you now get to buy brake hoses
Tooooooo.... boring
New hardware Everytime for drum brakes as springs do break and drum brakes last way longer
Maxwell Peter
Well said a spring kits are cheap.
Does it work for Chevy express 2500?