Installing Tortoises, Testing Frogs, and More (344)
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- Опубликовано: 13 июл 2024
- Today we'll continue work on the Lynchburg section of track, adding Tortoise switch machines, wiring the Tortoises to the frogs, and connecting track feeders to the DCC bus. Then I'll show you a quick and easy way to test the phase or polarity of the frogs before running any locos through and creating a short.
In the video I show a number of parts that I use and mentioned I would provide vendor info here. The Quick Splices and T-taps are easiest found on eBay--just search for Quick Splice or T-tap Wire connectors. The spade connectors are included with many of the T-taps connectors. The zipcord I use for my DCC power bus is 14 ga oxygen free copper, don't buy the copper clad aluminum version. I ordered mine here:
www
Chapters
0:00 Intro
1:05 Trying something new
1:37 Tortoise prep
4:17 Bottoms up view
4:38 Tortoise test
5:25 Screwing up
8:04 Topside view
9:25 Frog wiring
13:10 Bus connections
16:54 Another frog
19:20 Feeder hookups
21:20 Testing frogs
24:10 Wrapup 
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Very timely! I picked up three tortoise at a train show and I’ve been waiting to figure out how to install them.
Another way to test proper frog polarity, without powering the track, is to use the continuity test feature of your multimeter.
Thank you for sharing. Very much enjoyed.👍
Thank you Larry, I’m in the process of installing Walthers switch machines and this is very helpful information, I like the spade connections you used
I'm looking forward to the install of the control panel because if someone asks me a good way to do so, I'll be able to either tell them or guide them to your video to help them get it right the first time.
When you were testing the frog polarity with your meter set for AC I first thought he messed up. Than I realized by doing so you didn’t have the negative symbol interfering with the test which would be aggravating. Smart idea.
I think you’ll find that with DCC you won’t be able to measure voltage on DC.
Larry I replaced the suitcase connectors with all the t tap connectors with insulated spade connectors so I can easily remove them All feeders and lightits have those connectors.
Always informative video s thanks for sharing.
I am NOT an electrician but I am able to wire residential applications. I have built and wired several houses and numerous additions. Initially I was opposed to suitcase connectors because they are not recommended for residential use. Since doing further investigation I am not in favor of suitcase connectors. While they are not strictly legal for household electrical use they are more than good enough for anything you do on your layout. I would say that you should not use them on any 110v (Really 120v, I know, I know) circuits. But the low voltage of the layout itself, GREAT IDEA!
They are rated for about 35 volts and less so low voltage uses only.
Another great 'How to' Video, on reflection would you opt for different Colour Suitcase Connectors when connecting to the +ve and -ve Bus Power Cables? Trust you keeping well and stay safe.
The various suitcase connectors come in colors specific to the wire sizes they are used on so you really don’t have a color choice.
Zip wire has a ridge on one side so you can wire like the phone co. does r,r,r red, ridge rear. And you can be color blind and get it correct.
Just a thought for new guys.
Fact:
It is much cheaper ($) value and easier if use (Telephone) or (RJ-45) wires.
Try This:
* Use thinner manageable telephone or rj-45 wire.
* Use telephone gel connectors.
On the Totroise machine install, your screwdriver looks like it is rotating counterclockwise, meaning backwards.
Is it me or is he using counter clockwise screws?
The iPhone was apparently set to reverse the front camera image. After completing the video I discovered this and turned mirroring off so next time it will be clockwise. As I said up front this was my first time using the iPhone fir this so a learning experience.
$10 dollar model airplane servos work just as well.
Get the servo programmer and you can choose how far the servo moves.
Never had a failure either using a suitcase connector. Yes had failures on items that vibrate or move as in a car, motorcycle, RC plane but not on something like train layouts that do not move or vibrate. In that case solder it, don't use a suitcase or butt connectors.
I appreciate the details you provide. Being newer in the hobby, the info helps me get over some of the Hurdles!🫵👍✌️
hello larry it's is randy and i like yours video is cool thanks larry friends randy and super cool video larry thanks good friends randy
A better way may be to trace around the machine then come back and pre drill the holes. Pre mount two of the screws then slide the machine onto the screws the mount the other two screws.
Hi Larry. Another outstanding video! Could the power to the frog be accomplished by jumping terminals 1 & 8 to the input terminals (either 2&3 or 6&7) on the tortoise?
That would depend on how you are controlling the Tortoise. In some cases the current would be limited if you are using LEDs wired into the Tortoise feed for showing point orientation. If you are using a switch alone then it might be OK. When using a accessory decoder then the output capacity would also be a factor.
Great video as always how about doing one where we want to wire the frog but the switch has already been installed for some time? Thanks
The only thing you can do is solder the frog feeder wire to the side of the frog. I have done that in the past to old Walthers/Shinohara turnouts. You have to be very careful not to melt the ties and spikes holding the frog in place and I usually put the feeder on the side away from the aisle to disguise it.
Larry, I would suggest an easier way to do this.
I use DCC Ip digitals which are automatically centered when purchased, I use the stick-on pad supplied with the switch and mount them on a small piece of ply with the four screws.
I then mount the switch to the layout using 2 screws through the plywood block.
I have the wiring attached to the switch machine prior to mounting
Yes, I have a dozen or so iP Digitals ready to go on a couple of projects however I bought 2 dozen Tortoises a few years ago and need to use them up, plus more folks still use Tortoises. The good news is DCCconcepts’ Chinese factory have finally been able to ship them iP Digitals for the first time in about a year.
I noticed you connected the Tortoise switch machine to your power bus. Is that the same power bus wire that you connect your track feeders to? Just curious as I remember reading the instructions and it said not to connect the switch machine to track power
I think you are not looking close enough. The wires powering the switch machines are not attached to the DCC power bust, only the SPDT switch that powers the frog. The wires that power the actual switch machine are either attached ti an accessory decoder or to a special control circuit. You need to watch ore of my videos on building control panels and installing switch machines.
Why did it loook as though the drill was going anticlockwise?
Errant iPhone setting.
I thought that you had to use the color green for all frog wires :)
Out of curiosity, what is the wire color scheme that you use on your RR? I have been trying to keep consitent. Here is my scheme...
DCC - Red/Black
Frog - Green
Blue/White - Feedback
Yellow/Brown - 5v Bus
Orange/Brown - 12v Bus
Hello I have a question I'am learning. Is the Southern railroad color is green or they have more than one colors?
From about 1926 passenger locos were painted green and freight black. Then when diesels came in freight were black and imitation aluminum whereas passenger locos were green and imitation aluminum. In 1949 all diesel locos were painted green and imitation aluminum. After 1958 all locos were painted black and imitation aluminum except for passenger locos which after about 1975/6 went back to green and imitation aluminum.
If the Tortoise machine handles he polarity issue, why install a Frog Juicer?
There are those who do not want to deal with the extra effort, or use hand operated throws, etc. I only have a few on my layout in places where a Tortoise is not used or inadequate.
Why don't you have your DCC power bus twisted?
With zip cord you get the same effect as twisting without all the headaches, plus my bus runs are all under 30’.
The "zip cord" aka "Heavy Speaker Wire" is not twisted. How does this give the same effect as correctly twisted bus wires.
The reason for twisting is to get the 2 wires in as close proximity as possible, zip cord achieves the same result.