I own both of these cars as well, as well as their brushed version counterparts. The original brushed versions of these cars both included a 27t gear on them from the factory on a 550 brushed motor. When they originally released these brushless versions, they had a 27t on them as well with a 3900kv 2845. Due to overwhelming number of complaints about cogging at takeoff, they released the V2 version with a 4300kv 2845 motor with a 19T gear. I’m always wondered why they didn’t leave the 27t gear and just move to the 4300kv motor. I think just the added kv seems to keep the cogging to a minimum while also retaining that crazy top end speed. The factory brushless machines are such a great RC car for those new into the sport or on a tight budget like myself. Great work guys, hope you get to enjoy them for a long time!
I hope the 124017 is the version 2. With a programmable transmitter, you can adjust the steering servo end points as well as the dual rates to tone down the super sensitive steering.
There are 2 dials on the transmitter to reduce your steering rate(very useful for high speed and loose driving) and speed so you can dial it down for wet or slippery conditions and when I let my friend drive it so he didn’t keep torque flipping the thing hahaha
Cool video! The gear that goes on the motor shaft is actually called the pinion gear while the gear that lives in the car is called the spur gear. Cheers :)
Just replace those crappy caps on the esc... I just replace the caps with a MLCC and a Panasonic 1.000uf cap... Rather than welding the dogbone end, why not use a heatshrink?
Nice. I bought the 144010 and was just wondering what you were recommending for my next battery. I need it to at least run for an hour and it needs to be a 2s because who knows, it may go boom if its a 3s 😅
If you want to stick with 2S, you can buy a higher mah 2s battery, and even though it’s the same voltage, it will still have a little bit more ooomf behind it, and the charge will last longer. It will physically be a larger battery, but you’d be surprised what you can squeeze in if you just move the little plastic battery keeper piece. Also, look for a battery that is 50c or higher, that is the rate at which it can discharge aka sending power to the motor. But if you really want to have fun, get a 3S battery. I had a 3S battery in both of our cars their whole life and never fried the electronics or the motor. We crashed them a million times and kept rebuilding them until finally the chassis’s were too spent from all the crashes… But it was lots of fun!
@@coolstuffwithEric thanks for the info. I can't tell if what im looking for is a overkill. Its the CNHL Racing series 6600mAh 7.4v 2s 100c hard case lipo battery. Would this work?
We didn’t nothing, just plugged in a 3S battery and it was good to go. You run the risk of possibly burning up the ESC, which is the electronic controller, but we ran 3S batteries in several cars for a long time and never had a single issue other than the car is going too fast and mysteriously crashing into hard objects lol. I will mention that you would need to get a charger that can handle 3S. I used a C150 balance charger.
I own both of these cars as well, as well as their brushed version counterparts. The original brushed versions of these cars both included a 27t gear on them from the factory on a 550 brushed motor. When they originally released these brushless versions, they had a 27t on them as well with a 3900kv 2845. Due to overwhelming number of complaints about cogging at takeoff, they released the V2 version with a 4300kv 2845 motor with a 19T gear. I’m always wondered why they didn’t leave the 27t gear and just move to the 4300kv motor. I think just the added kv seems to keep the cogging to a minimum while also retaining that crazy top end speed. The factory brushless machines are such a great RC car for those new into the sport or on a tight budget like myself. Great work guys, hope you get to enjoy them for a long time!
I hope the 124017 is the version 2. With a programmable transmitter, you can adjust the steering servo end points as well as the dual rates to tone down the super sensitive steering.
There are 2 dials on the transmitter to reduce your steering rate(very useful for high speed and loose driving) and speed so you can dial it down for wet or slippery conditions and when I let my friend drive it so he didn’t keep torque flipping the thing hahaha
Cool video! The gear that goes on the motor shaft is actually called the pinion gear while the gear that lives in the car is called the spur gear. Cheers :)
Just replace those crappy caps on the esc... I just replace the caps with a MLCC and a Panasonic 1.000uf cap... Rather than welding the dogbone end, why not use a heatshrink?
thx for info
Hope it helps you have more fun with your RC bashing!
Nice. I bought the 144010 and was just wondering what you were recommending for my next battery.
I need it to at least run for an hour and it needs to be a 2s because who knows, it may go boom if its a 3s 😅
If you want to stick with 2S, you can buy a higher mah 2s battery, and even though it’s the same voltage, it will still have a little bit more ooomf behind it, and the charge will last longer. It will physically be a larger battery, but you’d be surprised what you can squeeze in if you just move the little plastic battery keeper piece.
Also, look for a battery that is 50c or higher, that is the rate at which it can discharge aka sending power to the motor.
But if you really want to have fun, get a 3S battery. I had a 3S battery in both of our cars their whole life and never fried the electronics or the motor. We crashed them a million times and kept rebuilding them until finally the chassis’s were too spent from all the crashes… But it was lots of fun!
@@coolstuffwithEric thanks for the info. I can't tell if what im looking for is a overkill.
Its the CNHL Racing series 6600mAh 7.4v 2s 100c hard case lipo battery. Would this work?
@@OLLI6867 that’ll be way too big to physically fit, if I remember correctly, something in the 2200 to 3300 MAH range should be able to fit.
@@coolstuffwithEric awsome thanks.
@@coolstuffwithEric sorry i have another problem. My back left wheel sometimes jams up. Do you know how to fix. Its brand new
Hi. How not burn the electronics using 3s? I have a smart charger but i didn't get what u mean . Thank you
@@clautamiralves712 we didn’t do anything special to protect our electronics from the 3S battery. We just plugged it in and everything worked great
@@coolstuffwithEric ok. Thank you very much. I just got my today. God bless you and your family
Hi, what upgrade do you need to do to the 124017 to make it 3s
We didn’t nothing, just plugged in a 3S battery and it was good to go.
You run the risk of possibly burning up the ESC, which is the electronic controller, but we ran 3S batteries in several cars for a long time and never had a single issue other than the car is going too fast and mysteriously crashing into hard objects lol.
I will mention that you would need to get a charger that can handle 3S.
I used a C150 balance charger.