Can't get enough of that book shelf!! It's just super clean & DOPE!! By the next time I visit you better be at least 3 projects deep Bud😂 Blessings, Dirty Jersey out!!
Only time I’ve had issues with veneer is when I used water based contact cement. As far as using water base finish and avoiding bubbles, the contact cement reaches full strength in 7 days. If possible wait the full 7 days before applying the water based finish.
Both veneers looks really nice. The fumed veneer has a very rich color. They will make very nice projects. I will have to wait to see what master piece you create with them.
i was watching to let my daughter know what i think of your instruction... no issues and thank you! on another note.. i’m a wood nut... i’ll buy an overpriced shotgun or rifle in an obsolete cartridge just to have the wood (and i have).. i love figured wood... that figured eucalyptus blew my mind... never thought about doing a veneer project but i am now...
Great video John. I too had the same issue with water based paint over a contact cement veneer project. Then the next project I did with the classic Titebond 2, let it almost dry, then ironed it on. Never had an issue this way. Then I used Sutherland Wells wipe on finishes.
The video I saw saying not to use contact cement is from a guy who... Sells his own glue :) he says contact cement doesn't harden enough to really keep a good bond. I also saw a video of a guy using regular wood glue (a fuck ton of it) forcing him to veneer both sides for the panel not to bow from the moisture, and he had to use a vacuum bag for compression. As far as I can tell, your method with the toxic cement is far better. And I love your videos
I've had similar experiences, Jon. Many of the "green" solutions just don't work as well ... or at all. I once needed some brush cleaner for some neglected brushes. Lowe's was out of the regular stuff I get so I picked up an "environmentally friendly" version. No smell and looked like milk. After soaking the brushes overnight ... I concluded I could've just used milk as it did absolutely nothing to remove the dried paint. Took it back to Lowe's and picked up my regular brush cleaner at a different store. Brushes looked like new after a few hour soak. No one wants to use stuff that's harmful ... but you also need to get stuff done.
Wow. That eucalyptus veneer is really gorgeous. I really like the lighter, more "blonde" looking, non-fumed, though the fumed sheets are very classy looking.
I agree completely with your assessment of the contact cement. Make the necessary preparations and precautions to use the “toxic” stuff. I’ve had success trimming veneer and wood edge tape with an 1/8” round over bit that only has a small portion of the radius exposed. It seems to leave little or none of that flap. I’ve also been using a 10 inch flat double cut file to clean up edges. Good video, thanks.
I personally think they've changed the dap weldwood, I don't normally use it, I used a professional spray grade, but I grabbed a can a few years ago to do a quick little job on the weekend cause I was out, and it didn't stick the laminate peeled off. that was the red can. I had never had that happen before
@@oliver299d Interesting. I've used it recently to reface cabinets, and it still works extremely well. Both the regular and gel did equally well on that project. Did you apply to both surfaces and allow to dry before putting them together?
Thanks for all the info, Jon! 😃 And you know, I need a desk for my PC (that I haven't even bought yet 😬)... Perhaps it could be a good project to try myself some veneer! Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
should reuse the box it shipped rolled up in. keep it rolled as loose as possible, and then store the box so the roll stands upright or close to it; sagging and creasing may occur if it settles while rolled horizontally. if you have the space to keep it flat and lightly covered (your working stack or even thin cutoff pile) then yes, id say you can keep it flat. just be sure to prepare the surface its staying on (no dust/chips/screws/nails) you know, common sense stuff. any indent that it could settle into usually shows up if left to rest for any amount of time. T. 3rd year mill-cab apprentice
I roll it back up and put it in the box it came in… Works good but now I have a collection of boxes that’s starting to get in the way might have to consolidate them
Wow, this video is very timely for me, I'm about to veneer for the first time. I purchased cherry wood veneer that I will adhere to sanded plywood for the back of an all select cherry wood bookcase, 75 inches tall by 40 inches wide. Because the veneer is pure cherry wood, and of course the quarter inch sanded plywood is also natural wood, I plan to use TiteBond 3 for the application. Do you agree? or have a better solution? Thank you,
Hi, thanks for your video. Have you ever used PSA backed veneer? I have not but am interested in trying it. I have heard anecdotally that it works well but don’t personally know anyone who’s used it. Sure seems like a great alternative to contact cement though. I agree with you about just going ahead and using the regular tried and true contact cement, while using a respirator, getting fresh air etc. The problem with that, for me at least, is when you have a big job and have to do a lot of veneering, day after day. This would be more for large custom cabinetry jobs than furniture. Anyway, even with proper protection the stuff is just so damn nasty when you have to use it for more than an hour here or there. I keep hoping they’ll finally figure out how to make the water base stuff be as bulletproof as the solvent base 🤷🏻♂️
I have used the PSA back veneer and again used the clothes iron to help with adhesion. It’s been about six or seven years since I’ve built that piece and so far so good.👍
Veneer? Easy. Annoying as well. I use red can and it delam every time. Finish or not. It'll lay down and stick until i move it to different environment like shop to house. Also it will shrink up to 1/8 inch after application.
I still don't know how you veneer with contact cement, always had ended up with bubbles when I gave used it. then again you're using backed veneer so that might help
I had horrible results with the water based contact cement. One of the worst products I’ve ever used. The solvent based one is definitely the way to go
![5 Different Finishes, 5 Different Results [Walnut Edition]](/img/1.gif)
For someone who's yet to tackle a veneer project, I sure appreciated the tips you offered, Jon. Thank you!
I really enjoy a veneered project. So many different things can be built. Jon is the goat for teaching this skill.
@@benperry8350 Thank you! I really appreciate it!
Can't get enough of that book shelf!! It's just super clean & DOPE!! By the next time I visit you better be at least 3 projects deep Bud😂 Blessings, Dirty Jersey out!!
Only time I’ve had issues with veneer is when I used water based contact cement. As far as using water base finish and avoiding bubbles, the contact cement reaches full strength in 7 days. If possible wait the full 7 days before applying the water based finish.
Great video! Full of great information. Thank you.
Thanks! I appreciate the feedback
Both veneers looks really nice. The fumed veneer has a very rich color. They will make very nice projects.
I will have to wait to see what master piece you create with them.
i was watching to let my daughter know what i think of your instruction... no issues and thank you! on another note.. i’m a wood nut... i’ll buy an overpriced shotgun or rifle in an obsolete cartridge just to have the wood (and i have).. i love figured wood... that figured eucalyptus blew my mind... never thought about doing a veneer project but i am now...
THANKS FOR ANOTHER GREAT VIDEO
Great tips
Really cool, Jon! Thanks for teaching me about veneer several years ago. Thumbs up from Iowa.
Thanks for the thoughtful explanation.
Glad it was helpful!
Great tips Jon & that veneer looks really nice. Looking forward to your next project! 👍👍
Thanks Steve!
Thank you, Jon,
Thanks Jon, You answered questions I didn't yet know were questions. I'm looking forward to using veneer.
Glad to help
Great video John. I too had the same issue with water based paint over a contact cement veneer project. Then the next project I did with the classic Titebond 2, let it almost dry, then ironed it on. Never had an issue this way. Then I used Sutherland Wells wipe on finishes.
I’ve never tried that method, I’ll have to give it a go one day
Very good advice Jon and motivating to do the work¡¡¡¡¡. Thanks for sharing your experiences.👌
Great tips, Jon. Using that board is basically the same as hammered veneer. For what it's worth, I really like the fumed version better.
Bill
@@williamellis8993 thanks Bill!
The video I saw saying not to use contact cement is from a guy who... Sells his own glue :) he says contact cement doesn't harden enough to really keep a good bond. I also saw a video of a guy using regular wood glue (a fuck ton of it) forcing him to veneer both sides for the panel not to bow from the moisture, and he had to use a vacuum bag for compression.
As far as I can tell, your method with the toxic cement is far better.
And I love your videos
@@gudrune thanks Glad to hear that 👍
I've had similar experiences, Jon. Many of the "green" solutions just don't work as well ... or at all. I once needed some brush cleaner for some neglected brushes. Lowe's was out of the regular stuff I get so I picked up an "environmentally friendly" version. No smell and looked like milk. After soaking the brushes overnight ... I concluded I could've just used milk as it did absolutely nothing to remove the dried paint. Took it back to Lowe's and picked up my regular brush cleaner at a different store. Brushes looked like new after a few hour soak. No one wants to use stuff that's harmful ... but you also need to get stuff done.
Wow. That eucalyptus veneer is really gorgeous. I really like the lighter, more "blonde" looking, non-fumed, though the fumed sheets are very classy looking.
Thanks, I agree. Might try to use both on one piece to mix it up a bit.
I agree completely with your assessment of the contact cement. Make the necessary preparations and precautions to use the “toxic” stuff.
I’ve had success trimming veneer and wood edge tape with an 1/8” round over bit that only has a small portion of the radius exposed. It seems to leave little or none of that flap. I’ve also been using a 10 inch flat double cut file to clean up edges.
Good video, thanks.
like a fine plasticut file? or any old fine mill file?
I personally think they've changed the dap weldwood, I don't normally use it, I used a professional spray grade, but I grabbed a can a few years ago to do a quick little job on the weekend cause I was out, and it didn't stick the laminate peeled off. that was the red can. I had never had that happen before
@@oliver299d Interesting. I've used it recently to reface cabinets, and it still works extremely well. Both the regular and gel did equally well on that project. Did you apply to both surfaces and allow to dry before putting them together?
Using a compression bit for trimming is better.👍🏝️🇨🇦
I have to try one
Thanks for all the info, Jon! 😃
And you know, I need a desk for my PC (that I haven't even bought yet 😬)... Perhaps it could be a good project to try myself some veneer!
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks
Thank you.
Something I was wondering the other day: how to veneer a box joint? Shall I veneer the unassembled pieces first?
How do you store the leftover veneer? Do you roll it up again to save space or lie it flat somewhere in the shop?
should reuse the box it shipped rolled up in. keep it rolled as loose as possible, and then store the box so the roll stands upright or close to it; sagging and creasing may occur if it settles while rolled horizontally.
if you have the space to keep it flat and lightly covered (your working stack or even thin cutoff pile) then yes, id say you can keep it flat. just be sure to prepare the surface its staying on (no dust/chips/screws/nails) you know, common sense stuff. any indent that it could settle into usually shows up if left to rest for any amount of time.
T. 3rd year mill-cab apprentice
I roll it back up and put it in the box it came in… Works good but now I have a collection of boxes that’s starting to get in the way might have to consolidate them
@@JonPetersArtHome so when you end up with similar cutoffs, you should combine similar color/size into same boxes....
@@imakedookie sure why not… You can label the box too
Wow, this video is very timely for me, I'm about to veneer for the first time. I purchased cherry wood veneer that I will adhere to sanded plywood for the back of an all select cherry wood bookcase, 75 inches tall by 40 inches wide.
Because the veneer is pure cherry wood, and of course the quarter inch sanded plywood is also natural wood, I plan to use TiteBond 3 for the application.
Do you agree? or have a better solution?
Thank you,
I don’t have any experience with tight bond… But I think both would work
Este tipo de videos que enseñan como hacer mejor las cosas es por lo que sigo en RUclips, saludos al algoritmo y gracias por compartir
What’s this woter-based finish you keep referring to? It is unique to New Jersey? 😅
Pretty much any waterborne finish
Hi, thanks for your video. Have you ever used PSA backed veneer? I have not but am interested in trying it. I have heard anecdotally that it works well but don’t personally know anyone who’s used it. Sure seems like a great alternative to contact cement though.
I agree with you about just going ahead and using the regular tried and true contact cement, while using a respirator, getting fresh air etc. The problem with that, for me at least, is when you have a big job and have to do a lot of veneering, day after day. This would be more for large custom cabinetry jobs than furniture. Anyway, even with proper protection the stuff is just so damn nasty when you have to use it for more than an hour here or there. I keep hoping they’ll finally figure out how to make the water base stuff be as bulletproof as the solvent base 🤷🏻♂️
I have used the PSA back veneer and again used the clothes iron to help with adhesion. It’s been about six or seven years since I’ve built that piece and so far so good.👍
That’s good to know, thanks for your reply.
Veneer? Easy. Annoying as well. I use red can and it delam every time. Finish or not. It'll lay down and stick until i move it to different environment like shop to house. Also it will shrink up to 1/8 inch after application.
I still don't know how you veneer with contact cement, always had ended up with bubbles when I gave used it. then again you're using backed veneer so that might help
I’ve never really had a problem except for this one project when using the solvent based glue and finish
I had horrible results with the water based contact cement. One of the worst products I’ve ever used. The solvent based one is definitely the way to go
I agree definitely worth the harsh smell