2013 Nissan Pathfinder |JX35|QX60| lower control Arm replacement
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- Опубликовано: 15 апр 2022
- In this video, I demonstrated how to remove and replace a lower control arm on a 2013 Nissan Pathfinder platinum AWD.
This procedure is highly related to both these Infiniti vehicles, JX35 and QX60 as both motor and suspension are identical. And if you own either one of these cars, then this video is just for you.
Disclaimer:
“Sokhom Garage” Will take no responsibility for any damages, injuries, losses or liabilities associated with performance on your vehicles or others property, you do this at your own risk, my video is for guidance, and educational/informational purposes. As always be safe and wear ppe (personal protection equipment)
#DIY #nissan #pathfinder #lowercontrolarm #infiniti #jx35 #qx60 #O2sensor #Suspension #tierod 
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Nice work. The replacement cost I was just quoted today was $916.00 per side that included OEM parts You just saved me a ton. I loved your torque spec. They are a hard find.
I was quoted $1200 for the replacement, alignment and spare parts for this on my Nissan Quest ‘16. I can buy all tools needed for this work at less than 10% of that cost and do it myself. Thanks for this video. I see that suspension is pretty identical for me.
Elite af keep doing your thang bro!💪🏽. Very Knowledgeable
Great content! Your very thorough! Excellent video quality. Keep it up and thank you for your videos!
Awesome video! Really liked all the details from bolt/nut size and torque specs. Excellent job my friend. I've definitely subscribed and liked!!
Thank you
Great
What brand control arm?and how long will it last?.
Great video
Thanks for posting it
Official ... thank you
I’m a used car tech at a Kia dealership and I just pulled out the control arm and used a pry bar like I do with Mazdas ( I have a lot of Mazda experience)but was amazed how tight it was and it was 5x harder than a Mazda took me an hour but I got the job done with a pry bar and basic tools I first put all the bolts in except the one all the way in the rear and I put it in half way but the bushing was affecting it to line up so I used a pry bar in the back and pushed it all the way in still pretty hard but that’s the fastest way without removing anything but the lower arm it’s self I’m wondering how the Nissan techs do it they probably have a trick for it
I have a friend who works for Nissan, and was told to do it this way.
This is a good video but if all you're doing is changing the control arms you DON'T need to do everything that they're doing. All you really need to do is jack the car up, take the tires off and remove the control arms and put the new ones in. I tried this myself this weekend and I ended up ruining my tie rods because I was trying to do everything they're doing here. If you are having a hard time putting the new control arm in, use a jack and jack up the whole steering knuckle. This should allow you enough space to put the new control arm in and get the bolts and nuts in. You may also need to jack the steering knuckle up to remove the old control arm, but I didn't have to do that.
They doing to much
Thank you for the video. Can you let me know what prompted you to replace the lower control arm? I just bought a 2013 Infiniti JX35 with 95,000 miles and the passenger front makes a clunking noise when I drive over bumps or uneven pavement. After watching a dozen videos, I thought the issue might have been the sway bar end links and bushings. I had those replaced but the clunking noise is still there. If I had a bad lower control arm or ball joint would this cause the clunking noise?
So the car originally had a rip in one of the bushing on the lower control arm, which was why it had to be replaced, clunking noise could possibly be the shock absorbers, but I wouldn’t count the lower control arm out, because they are connected, if you just bought it, take it back to have them look into it.
@@SokhomGarageThanks. I'll look into the shock absorbers also.
@aidanbhuiyan916 Thank you for your feedback on the bushing and CVT fluid. The clunking noise was due to a worn out strut mount. I replaced it and I haven’t had an issue for about 6 months now. I’m planning to change my CVT fluid on my next oil change. I bought the car at 95,000 miles. I’m pushing 113,000 miles now.
can I replace the actual ball joint on the control arm for Qx60 2014?
If you have the time patience and tools yes you can
Can you help me with the torque of the front shock absorber nissan phafinder 2014 up and down
Sure,
3 bolt on the top hat are 26 ft-lb
The big nut in the middle/center of the strut is 54 ft-ln
2 nut/bolt on the lower strut are 122 ft-lb
Stabilizer bar that connects to the shock strut is 62 ft-lb.
Hope this helps.
thank you so much
What brand LCA did you use; Nissan OEM, Moog, Duralast, Napa?
TRQ
@@SokhomGarage how is quality so far for now
@@wuxianku
Hey, sorry it took long to reply back, but I was trying to get back with the owner of the car, he said so far, he hasn’t had any issue since replacing it.
Is this still the case?
What was the problem with this particular control arm that required it to be replaced?
Bushing on it was worn down
Why was the lca replaced?
Lower ball joint was bad and so was the bushing
nissan phafinder 2014 thermostat torque. please
Thermostat housing
9.0 N-m (0.9 kg-m, 80in-lb)
Hope this helps.
Couldn't you just put the lugs back on the rotor and jack up the rotor a little to clear the lower control arm?
I’m not sure if that will work, because the LCA has some tension on it, and will retracted upwards, but it doesn’t hurt to try out this theory.
100% YOU CAN
this is exactly what I did to get the ball joint back in to the lower control arm.
Yes 100% this is exactly what got the job done for me. I couldn't figure it out myself and had to call a mobile mechanic and all he did was jack up the steering knuckle/rotor and he had all the space he needed to insert/remove control arms. I ruined my tie rods trying to remove them like this video was saying and now I have to replace those as well.
On my car i only remove 3 bolts of arm and it is out..then i put new arm..and done...no need to remove all this extra unnecessary bolts 😂😂😅
Yeah, I ruined my tie rods doing everything that they were saying. I ended up having to call a mobile mechanic to finish the job and he said all that extra stuff was unnecessary. Just the three bolts for the arm and that's it.
how do you know your control arm is going bad ?
So, usually you would check the bushing and ball joint for any kind of damage, could be a rip in the bushing and if it has lots or some kind of play in the ball joint, control arm should be stiff.
@@SokhomGarage I have a sound clip of the sound coming from front passenger wheel, if I send to you can you help me identify it maybe? ruclips.net/video/VCZmf7clrHg/видео.html Thanks!
@@SokhomGarage thank you.for the video. I just ordered all the parts will be doing lower control arm , outter tie rod and sway bar links...
@@SokhomGarage btw is it necessary to remove the knuckle to replace the lower control arm ? I seen someone change a rouge lower arm and did not remove the knuckle, sorry I am trying to remove least thing as possible lol... btw I am also changing out the outter tie rod and also the sway bar link. TIA.
Probably don’t have to, but I was just going off the service manual itself, it’s a long process but you can reference this video if you need help.
YOU COULD SIMPLY REPLACE IT JUST BY REMOVING 3 bolts and pry it out with a pry bar ,,, but instead you genius disconnected everything possible 😂
Typical teenage boys trying to be mechanics
I replaced mine without removing everything they. I went straight to the control arm. 30 min job each side
@@ricardomarron1426 did you have to jack up the rotor a little to make clearance? trying to do this without removing the knuckle from the cv axle ...
No
@@ricardomarron1426 you are a pro.. 30 min each side lol... I spent 3 hours first time attacking it... made a few mistakes and wasted a good 1 hour. wont happen for the second round but I think for your average DIYer this job is not bad but just takes time... I also changed out my Sway bar links and Outter tie rod I think I can do it in 2 hours for other side, this video Definitely helped alot. booosted my morale .... lol
This is a horrible explanation of how to get the lower control arm out. This is going to to ruins some tie rods. you need to take out the 2 inline bolts out that are at the ends of the old lower control arm, then remove the sway bar linkage from where it attaches to old arm remove it and the last bolt that’s connecting it to the knuckle, then fanangle it out. Swap it out and put it back it torque it to spec with 3 uga dougha’s and done. My edibles hitting the spot rn but that’s how to do it