2 tone sign with textured background on Shapeoko
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- Опубликовано: 2 окт 2024
- Someone asked me to make a sign with their son's name on it. I was told no paint, just stain. I was told to use my own discretion on the design. I opted for a pocket carved 2 tone sign with a textured background. Check out the first part of the video for a tutorial on how I designed it in Vectric vCarve Pro. Thanks.
Great video. You just gave me an idea of what I’m making my picky niece for her birthday. I’ve always have been afraid of open grain woods but I think I’ll give it a shot. I’ve seen several videos of yours and they turn out great.
Just a little "design" food for thought...
Kerning script letters that far apart doesn't allow the connecting parts of the letters to overlap each other properly.
Instead of one, fluid set of letters (which script lettering is designed to look like).... the name looks "pieced" together.
Each letter looks like it's leaning on the letter in front of it. It would have looked better by simply leaving it, as is. I
probably would have stretched it just a little.
But in any event... you did a great job, as usual. And that cabinet is the bomb. *Subscribed*
Nice tut. good job. I gave you a like. I know you appreciate craftmanship so... did you know it took six designers six years just to modernize a 1950's typeface named Office into Officina Sans. The NYT's paid a liitle over three million to have linotype create a new typeface just for them as no existing one allowed them to align all the figures in the financials properly. It took 12 of the worlds best type designers 12 years. Full typefaces include four different kinds of number ( old style, proportional, etc.) all the extended character set including ligatures, alternates, swashes, ordinals and on and on. It really takes years to create all those characters and make them look alike then you have to do it again for all the different wieghts that make up type family like futura for example. so if you won't be offended by an old graphic designer offering you a kindly tip, don't kern ( change the space between letters) unless you know you know what your doing. no offence but you murdered this typeface. you created unattractive humps where there were none to begin with. these letters, as in any script face are meant to flow into each other in a way that is lovely and it took some sharp guys a long time to get them that way to begin with. also learn to protect your borders and leave yourself more white space around something like this. the taext looked better before you enlarged it. it needs that space so it does not seem squeezed and cramped. like a wine it needs to breath this enhances legibility. Its as hard to critique as it is to except critique but its the only way to learn. so please don't be offended, just trying to share a little knowledge you'll benefit from. keep making great stuff my friend and thanks for this tut. quite good.
I thought about the kerning as he was doing it. While I'm not a trained typographer or designer, I thought that, I might be inclined to try a bit of kerning on this job. But, I would have edited the humps out of it before I was done. There probably aren't many Caslons or Goudys among us, but we can learn from them.
Thank you, Jason, for sharing your techniques with us. I absolutely did learn a thing or two in this tutorial.
Looks great… I think I would have ran a v bit around letter to soften edges…. Good job
That's what I was thinking.
I found you 2 years ago when I got my Shapeoko. Your videos helped a lot. Recently I offered to remake a sign with wood grained background with raised lettering. I have been struggling with it until I watched this video. Thanks.
Next one u do. Type out the name then combine them and then make the size to fit the material And the best way to do that is Group them and then change the height or width by using the tool ( don’t know what your software calls it but say you make it 5 in by 20 you would group the name and type in 5 and the width would automatically make it the size it should be even if it’s say 5x19.625,or whatever ya get what I’m saying
Great job , but one thing from my experience is to merge the letters together first and go with that. Cause by leaving them whr they are meant to be, it looks a lot better. Not criticizing your work or how you do things but I learned by picking up ideas from many different people, videos, internet etc..
Just watched your video good job ..prolly won't matter much for stuff like this but your router should be a bit higher in its mount great job looks good 👍
that's a quarter inch border
This turned out beautifully. Signs with textured backgrounds have been at the top of my list of things I want to do when I get better educated on Vcarve software. Your explanations of procedures like this are SO much easier to follow and understand than the Vectric tutorials that I'd much rather learn it from you.
Thanks a LOT for the heads up about the stain bleeding through and showing on the edge of the pocket cutout. I'd never even considered that. Thanks for everything!
Great job. 👍🏼 It looks like tiger stripes.
Are there any websites out there that you can download projects and just use them instead of designing your room?
Great tutorial fine sir. I am subscribed! Thank you.
your videos have been very helpful and the way you explain details is great!
Very cool,,, I really like your video's keep up the good work you are really helping out newbies like me.... I think I will try something like this over the weekend.
Looks great👍
red oak is very porous, stain will always soak in farther than you think. white oak doesn't.
Thank you so much. So simple but I learned so much. These tutorials are great and the project looks awesome!
Hi i like your videos and was wondering about how long does it take to carve a sign like this?
Jason, I am using essentially the same hold down clamps that you are. I see you "appear" to have the clamp parallel with the stock and you've got an additional clamp at the rear as a wedge. I do the same thing but I push my wedge in further so that the actual clamp is on a downward angle from the wedge towards the stock I'm cutting. Is there a reason you clamp as you do or is it a matter of preference for each person?
I just use those as leverage. The further back they are the more force that if I'm correct is applied toward the front of the hold down. I clamp each job differently it just depends on what I'm doing, how much room I have, and if I need to access the edge of the piece.
Thanks for a great start to finish video. The sign although relatively simple looks terrific with the stain and background texture. I look forward to many more.
I always enjoy your tutorials/videos. Even the small details like you running through the (nearly) entire process (Excluding the saving tool paths). But even the warning "cover your ears". I've seen lots of people not warn about the sudden noise changes and it becomes an annoyance. I love that you are helping the new guys (such as myself). I'm currently building a spoil board based off your tutorial. I started it in Fusion, but liked your process (and the ease). Thanks Jason!
Thanks for watching. I learned from watching youtube videos, and figured it would be a good way to pay it forward, and help someone else out.
Stunning work, Jason!
Now, after you create the sign's image and toolpaths in Vectric's VCarve, do you transport the G-Code into Carbide Motion? or is VCarve doing all the work here?
I save the G-code onto a thumb drive, and use Carbide Motion to run it from my computer in the garage.
Thank you great video!
Hey Jason. I'm getting ready to start on this, and am having trouble locating a 1/16" end mill with a 1/4" shank. I've found several that have 1/8" shanks though. What bit did you use for the 1/16 cuts? Thanks.
I used a 1/16 with a 1/8 shank from precisebits.com. Your best bet is to get a 1/8 Colette as well. I have seen some .25 shank .0625 endmills, but generally they are lacking in cut depth.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Thanks for the quick reply. I'm using a muscle chuck, and will buy a 1/8" reducer for it. And thanks for the reminder about Precise Bits. I hadn't thought of them. Again, thanks.
Im thinking about getting cnc machine like yours when I learn like more on the vcarve pro software. I have a question what speed setting on dewalt 611 you use for yours bits making the sign, I never could find anyone say what speed they use for making the signs. Thanks for great works and showing
Honestly I usually turn it up full speed for most everything I do with wood. I have tried lowering it, and using it full speed. I never really notice a difference. I have never burned any wood, and never broken a bit. The results are typically the same as well.
ok thanks
lovely that would have been nicer with a v-bit chanfer all around edge of lettering
Tony Greenall I thought about that but with it being 2 tone it would have made the top of the words too thin with the dark stain making the words look skinny IMO
Hey Jason...beautiful project. How long did it take to cut it?
I don't remember exactly how long, but it was close to 1.5 hours for the whole thing.
@@stufftokeepyouentertained2168 Thanks...great channel.
Well done!
Good work thanks from Holland
Great job 👍👍
Great video, it helped alot. what speeds and feeds do you have in the tool settings for the .125 ball nose, and do they matter when doing texture?
What did you do for the final finishing, it looks great?
David Norton I used spray semi gloss polyurethane. Thanks