Model Railroad Weathering - Getting Started! - 2nd Edition!
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- Опубликовано: 25 ноя 2024
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The very first formal video on this channel was an introduction to the process of weathering. This video is a seriously revised and updated version that looks at the whole process of weathering, showing how the process and the subject matter drives the techniques that we use. This video also does a brief introduction to some materials you will need to get you started, as well as a teaser of the different techniques that can be used at any stage in the process.
It also seemed to be appropriate to do a new edition of this video as we enter into the last six weeks of the Down N Dirty Weathering Contest 3!
If you enjoyed this video, give it a "like" 👍, subscribe 🔔, comment 💬 below, and share it on your social media and model railroad forums.
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Autolock Cordless Airbrush:
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Abteilung Oil Paints:
If you get no other weathering oil paint, get this one:
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Oilbrushers:
Soil Colours Set: amzn.to/2IYzlnI
Light Fading Set: amzn.to/3mDETC9
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*Rust Colours Set: amzn.to/371pLZC
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Music: "Engine No. 9" by Les Hooper
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Keywords:
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What techniques would you most like me to cover?
@JC’s Riptrack I would love it if u could cover how to model chipped paint on a boxcar that is pre painted
Not a technique, but plea. Please use materials etc that are still generally available. It's really annoying when someone uses something that hasn't been available for x years without at least giving an up to date alternative. Cheers from the UK, Lee
Fair enough. I try to keep my materials list up to date. Some things have gone through name changes, while others have an availability issue across jurisdictions. Future floor polish is now "Pledge Revive-It" in Canada and the US, and has different names internationally. "Mig Productions" materials were out of print for a while, until AK Interactive scooped up the brand, but equivalents of those products are now available from AK Interactice and Ammo by Mig. A solid request, and I'll try to keep to it, or update my older videos if things are no longer available.
@@JCsRiptrack Thanks JC
Great tips, and help. Thanks for the video!
Excellent overview JC
Thanks, Tom!
Thanks this was very useful.
Again a great video John, this i would have needed a couple years ago so i am sure for those starting out it is a great video
Thanks! As I've mentioned elsewhere, this subject needed a revision!
@@JCsRiptrack yes i agree and it is very good, specially the listing of the individual steps!
I was just thinking: the wide use of pigments could also give for a complete video i itself... just an idea...
I know you don't use them often however the wide use of the AIM powders, panpastels and the possibility to use them with a bit of thinner, pigment fixer to flood the surface etc etc...
Also here some guys use powders mixed with valejo matt coat and use them ad a paste for rust and grease and such...
Great content for those starting out.
Another great video. I'm going to put out some videos on how I did some of my models and definitely shout out the man who helped me a ton with weathering techniques, you.
Thanks for the awesome content.
Thanks, Peter! This original video was in desperate need of a revamp.
@@JCsRiptrack If it was actually your first video I would say it was very well done. Loads better than what I'm bound to post haha.
Great video JC, why didn’t I think of this? Bang on!
Thanks Ralph. I needed to give myself a redo of this original, and even then, I could have added more!
Like the new video today
Hi John, can you expand on thinners for oils? Not sure of the difference between them. Thanks!
Hi Bill, I may be able to do that. I may even be able to raise that with Ralph Renzetti in our next livestream!
You know thinking about what you asked for on techniques review and use of the new kits would be real nice.
Until recently I've gone for relatively subtle weathering effects using chalks and pigments on top of a flat clear finish, then followed by another flat clear finish. This is my general preference as heavy weathering just doesn't do it for me. (I will never have equipment that looks extremely old or beat up, let alone have graffiti. This is because my model railroad is more how I'd like the world to be, rather than how it is. Also, I'm not in any way an artist.) However, I've been experimenting with acrylic washes with good results, and just last week I tried oil paint panel line rust effects with an ancient tube of Grumbacher burnt sienna and some mineral spirits. I was happy with the effect, even though the underlying factory finish was more satin than gloss. So I'm opening up to techniques that are new to me. My one request/piece of feedback is to please don't overload a video with too many techniques or options. If too much is covered too quickly, I get overloaded and don't absorb the great knowledge you have to offer. Thanks!
Thanks Andrew. This video was/is intended as an overview, but I need to work on developing some new technique-specific videos that only deal with one particular technique or subject at a time. My start-to-finish videos are often several techniques smushed into one video. Time for some one-off type tutorials!
Very good video John, thanks for the update. I am just starting out, and your tips are very useful.
I noticed you were using a drone in some of your rolling stock videos. Which one did you select?
Hi John, I have access to some stock footage resources that include drone shots of various types from all over the world. I'd love to try using a drone to get some footage of my own, but at least one of the shots was a flyover of a Mongolian railyard, (I think).
A lot of times it's what layers to start with, as there is so much different techniques these days. What is a good staring base? A dull coat? Then pin wash or panel line? Followed by a dot fade technique and finally rust? My apologies for a lot of questions.
No problems on the questions. I'll be doing a video on clear coats soon, but the best "starting" base depends on what your first step is going to be. If you're going to fade with acrylics, for example, then a dull/flat coat is a good place to start. If you're using oils, then a gloss or satin coat works better. It all depends on the paint that you're going to be using for the next step. I usually put the dot fade as a very early step, even before pin washes/panel lines.
@@JCsRiptrack thank you very much for the information. You always have great videos and I can't wait for the next one as always! Take care.
my hangup is choosing the proper color to fade. easiest for black, spray it (airbrush) with grey. well what if its grey like csx yn2. what color works..maybe white. what color should you use to fade blue on csx engines??
Sometimes it depends on the effect you're trying to achieve. I am currenlty working on a Louisville & Nashville Locomotive made by Atlas that came as olive green when it should have been grey. So I added a contrasting colour (red violet) to white, mixed it with a clearcoat and built that up in layers (airbrush) to achieve the grey that I was looking for. Amazingly, it worked. For a blue on a CSX engine, you can go with white, grey, or even mix a small amount of orange in the mix if you want to de-saturate the blue. Orange is a contrasting colour, but check out a colour wheel to get you into the right ballpark. :)
@@JCsRiptrack orange? I would have never thought of that. lol I'll check it out, thank you JC
Just enough to tint the white to a peach colour. You won’t need much, and make sure to spray it on with thin layers. This is assuming you’re using an airbrush. If you’re doing an oil dot fade, then include a dot of orange in a few places along the model.
@@JCsRiptrack airbrush
4:58 where is this, what video is this from? I would say maybe Canadian but no white stuff :)
I have access to some stock footage. There are some dry places in Canuckia, but nothing that quite looks like this. I'm guessing some of the desert regions of California?
I find it frustrating when some modelers act like their way of weathering/modeling/color alteration is the only way.
There are a diversity of techniques, and they’re worth exploring. Even since I made the first video, there have been at least 5-10 new products or techniques that I’ve tried, and all worth learning.