Having that ability to push a trailer is super valuable. You can get a trailer into & out of tight places that are impossible towing from the back. Growing up on the farm, every vehicle had a front hitch and we used them all the time.
Them old Square hood International’s are good old reliable trucks if you keep after them, my first work truck was an old square hood and man did that old girl run. Nice collection of old International trucks glad to see someone looking after them
I used to do a lot of mud bogging trail riding with my rig and when the first things I did was put a winch in the front I even had them on my daily driver front and rear winch winches were connected to a plate with the receiver so you can take them out. Color benefit of putting a trailer hitch in the front I had one on my truck it made for pushing the trailer where it sits in the winter it's like so easy it's always give it to back down like 150-ft driveway that zig zags through the woods and it's very tight so found out it's a lot easier to push the trailer with the truck and makes so much easier to maneuver that thing around.
As a mechanical fitter my cars were not always clean and polished, but I was taught to make everything to look clean and polished with no rust. It has stood me well because I was never the best but it was strong and workable. I learned to oxy weld first then arc weld came next and I was a decent stick welder, things I welded had to stand up to cattle pushing against it. I think I only heard of one thing being broken in ten years in that job.
To answer the question. I like the factory look. Not too fancy and chrome everywhere. I'd probably sand blast and powder coat it black or dark gray. But everyone has a different taste :)
Dont forget to put in the 1/2" steel plate behind bumper frame to frame drilled. i would put in some vertical tubes next to tube mounting to plate . Build a vertical protector you can just take out to access hood and tilt foward to protect against deer.. save you a fortune in repair cost..
Agree. Place the bumper inside up on top of 1/4 inch plate and trace out the holes. Run it past the bumper mounts to pic up the ends of that solid steel bumper. Sandwich that 1/8 inch one between for looks.
necessity is the mother of inventions, All the arm chair experts on here would still be stuck on a flat earth unless google told them it was round. Keep up the great work and have a Merry Christmas
You'll see Old Red soon... i've been completely rearranging the shop for the last couple months and now im motivated to get Old Red back up and moving so i can move him out of the way of the other entrance into my shop, and build a road with the old beast!
On our off-road Jeeps equipped with winch bumpers, we run a heavy plate from rail to rail, then we tie into the frome rail down each side as far as you can. Then gussets! Lots of gussets
No matter how much you beef up in front of the bumper, there's still only four relatively small bolts holding the whole assembly to the frame. Those bolts were only designed to hold the bumper on. I'd say make up a brace to go behind the bumper and bolt into the side of the frame and into the bumper at the front. ~|_____+_____|~ My ASCII art is crap but at least you get the idea. 😃
Everything looks great and I believe that you will know the limitations of your equipment! I would have extended the pipe bumper 90's out to the ends of the original bumper to give it some protection from potential hits from the side. And maybe an arch bar about halfway up in front of the radiator with expanded metal inside it for added protection.
Dish soap and tap water, run the engine for a few heat cycles to get the sludge out of the rad system; that’s what we did to our C15 when the oil cooler went bad.
People also confuse dirty/rusted with rustic. Rustic should still be clean and structurally/functionally solid and is not degrading (has some rust protection in critical areas eat least - like bolts and welds). And no flaky rust/deep rusty pitting.
That push bar looks awesome. I would mount the winch on the angle-plate and bolt the plate directly to the frame, sitting next to the 2" receiver. Yeh, it won't look as sexy but it will be a lot more secure and functional AND thieves won't walk away with your winch by pulling it out of the receiver
Did not read any comments about grade 8 bolts, but there was some good ideas. Bumper bolts will fail. Do not stand in front of that bumper when pulling. Thanx for video, like your style, you make the work interesting.
@Salvage Workshop you should install a vibratory motor to the dump bed , that ensures no clay or mud can stick in it when you dump stuff- hydraulic ones are best, electric ones drain a lot of energy wider front tires make steering on soft ground easier - and easier going for the hydrostatic steering unit as well like super singles or maybe even highway rated tractor tires like the JCB fasttrac and some Fendt have if you seriously want to use the winch you should consider how you will stop yourself if you ever plan on pulling something else but yourself, crane outriggers really dont like sideways movement - they are not made to handle that - a blade as earthanchor would be better siuted one cool thing i saw on a cabover dumptruck was it had a homemade 3 point hitch on the front - and a hydraulic motor with spline as PTO for tractor attachments he used it a bunch - tractor 3 point mounted snowblower, rear tractor box mounted on the front for scraping gravel and dirt and backdragging - also leveling your heaps somewhat so you can drive over whatever fill you have dumped, also for transporting stuff on site short distance, like rolling on segments of concrete culvert pipe in the box and shutteling it 250ft to where it gets installed, also instead of your hitch mount he got a logging winch with a blade shield that you can anchor yourself on - since the PTO motor is hydraulic he was able to controll flow, so he could pull stuff fast - like a usual tractor logging winch or slow - this setup was also great because he was able to mount a big whater pump usually used for field irrigation or manure slurry loading and could pump out trenches and holes and start big seifens or even pump - to some extent mud the biggest advantage is the cheapness of surplus farm equipment one can use - biggest disatvantage is you got hydrauics in the front and without anything attached it might look weird- therefor he usually removed the three links and fixed the lift cylinder to the bumper very usefull is a frame fitting your truckbed you can lift on and off with a excavator with a grate made of welded concrete reinforcements - it will prevent any large rocks to get on your truck, like when you want topsoil but no roots and stones, or if you want to use rivergravel as roadbase but dont want big stone that get pushed up in frost heaves -that way you dont need to sift through it before you load it but do it while loading ruclips.net/video/B7mD3mNr1CE/видео.html for future , you should make a YT short or sth and ask for ideas before you make yourself a bunch of effort to the point where advise is worthless since you have already done it your way
So you have a heavy duty winch pulling off the stamped steel bumper you massaged with a simple hammer, that is held onto the front of the truck with 4 small bolts. I foresee a bumper on the ground.
You were talking about possibly doubling the winch line. I’m not sure the hitch/bumper would handle 34k lbs. I’m not sure it would handle 17k lbs if there’s any side or vertical loading. I didn’t get a good look at the frame end plates (bumper mounts) in the video. Hope they’re up to the task.
It is starting to look good but like these other guys I would definitely be adding more plate and bolts to the bumper and main frame. And too since it is a work truck I would paint the whole bumper assembly gloss black to match the rest of the bottom of the truck. A thought too might add some led lights on some pipe stubs to the bumper to add in workability and give it some character as well. Keep up the good work but let's see something more on Big Red!!!!
The hitch pin can handle all that weight? Would bolting the winch direct to your bumper be better? The hitch could be moved to the side for accessories. Use two hitches, one on either side of the winch. Then you'd have a really strong accessory mount.
To me it depends on what it is . I do love chrome... But nothing like a 75 ford pick up with a ding or two lol ..I dig the big scratch in the bumper . Great videos man.
Another thing you could do, if you're worried about snap-back on the winch cable, is to replace the wire rope on the winch with a Spectra winch line. Spectra does not store energy like wire rope does, and it also does not have the mass. If a Spectra winch line releases, it will snap back, but not nearly like steel -- it almost just drops to the ground. So, it will not damage the front of the truck in the event of a failure.
Minus the tools, decals & workers- those two trucks together would make one Hell of a tree service. Felling, hauling away, etc. All you'd need is a trailer and a skid steer with a claw/thumb. There is huge money in tree services. Get contracts with insurance companies, so guaranteed pay. Two or three motivated workers can make hundreds a day.
functional is #1, appearance is secondary at most. as long as it does what i want it to do, every time i want to do it, without being damaged, i'm a happy camper. if it winds up looking good, it's a bonus, but not necessarily a requirement. i don't want it to look like crap, but perfect cosmetics is not my goal. but i kinda like the mad max aesthetic, so that helps. edit; i made a front bumper for a chevy 4x4 1/2 ton out of a 6' section of 6" heavy walled tube. i welded a 3/8" thick disc on both ends to make it an air tank, with the driver's side set back in the tube to protect the shut off valves and quick coupler for an air hose. it held enough air at 100 psi. to fill two tires at 35-40 psi. i made a grill guard by welding 2"x2" square tube on to the tube. the whole bumper was over 200lbs. but tough as hell, and handy to boot.
I think that the small bar should have inserts between the small bar and the larger bar. Also you could put spacers between the large bar and the bumper. As far as looks i would have the bumper and push bar powder coated black, and you could put fog lights in the bumper. Another thing i would put in is a d.c outlet and a .c outlet so you could run different items. You could put a rubber hose on the outside pipe so you don't scratch whatever you push. That's all i can think of , have fun.
I like an organized structured look utilizing steel round, square & plates with good looking welds. I like a painted finish just for protection not necessarily looks. In this project I would re-think both bumpers you are trying to utilize. I would do a completely different bumper made for you push & wench requirements.
Rusty, beat up, functional, worked, did i say beat up? That's a hell of a bumper, man. Bit too heavy for the front, maybe. Really good for the back end. Thoroughly enjoy your videos, always learn something new. Thanks for sharing, stay safe and keep up the good work.
Flatbed with Gin Poles going on my crew cab diesel pickup this winter. Also buying what I need to add a wrecker sling. I’m a mechanic so I need the lift more than the pull.
I agree with Merle, but I would use a 1/2" plate to be sure; also weld mounting nuts to the backside of the plate make it easier to bolt-on stay safe have fun
Plate the chassis rails (1/4" minimum) inside and out, run a heavy (1/2" minimum ) plate from rail to rail across the front. Then gusset the front plate back as far as you can to your inside chassis plates.
The best way to flush the cooling system. Is drain it then put Tide powder in and add water only. Then run until normal operating temperature. Then drain fill with water only run till operating temperature. Repeat until it comes out clear and clean. Then fill with coolant. God bless
Idea for strength of push-bumper: add a small block between the front bar and the "main" bar; the long thin(ner) bar could gain huge strength by a little 1/2" thick plate between the tubes!
As a heavy recovery operator I personally can not except the notion that the winch mount system that you have will hold up. In my truck which has twin mid ship winches rated at 50k apiece and also a engineer that forces that are going to be applied are to great for the mounting system. My best estimate is 8900 lbs before failure is going to happen and under that amount of strain it will be catastrophic please put backing plates behind the front bumper.
Nice. I've used a really good rust preventer since my days in the Navy called RP-342. It's a waxy cosmoline spray and if you have never tried it, I'm thinking you're the kinda guy that may fall in love with it. I buy it on the line by the case. It's not cheap, but you should give it a try.
I'm not keen on the rusty look, but I don't mind the look of the rough and ready beat up look. Not quite mad max, but well loved and well used heavy plant.
I'd replace the whole thing with a homemade pipe bumper with the winch permanently mounted behind it along with the hitch. The winch can come out under or slightly off center beside the hitch without effecting it' s usability. But like you said we each have our own preferences and as it's your truck you definitely should build it your way.
looks good , remember to fit a isolator switch to the supply , put it somewhere that is easy to get to when you are using it , i would put it in the cab on the seat box ( to stop anyone doing anything stupid like pulling the rope over the top of the truck and shorting the two in pins (been done and made a mess) good luck with it
I think would use a double reciever mount to make the mount more rigid for side loading. Would probably have to enlarge pin holes for ease of installation / removal though.
Believe the bumper in the bar part the bumper is just your meat between the mounts for bumper are what ur strength comes from so your bar won't bend bumper will bend or may bend brackets
Good build. I would also put a back plate on bumper, maybe an angle. I would also put tubing on end of plate winch is mounted to at end of plate, thick walled, and larger tubing on round bumper so tubing at end of plate slips into tubing on bumper. This would give you side to side and rotation support when pulling at angle with winch. I would be concerned the 2 inch would not be strong enough for that size of winch.
I would beef up the frame where the original bumper attaches. Like a piece of metal in between the frame to keep it from moving from side to side. Maybe burn a slot in the bumper and attach your winch mount to that. If that makes sense?
Hi, putting a winch this strong on a 2" reciever tube seems wrong. If the winch is pulling at an angle (which is almost certain at some point), the leverage will be huge. A quick search turned up that 2" recievers are kind of rated at 10000 lbs towing weight. That usually equates to less than 10000 lbs static pull. I´m not an expert on this stuff, but this reciever does not look like it´s strong enough.
Seems a bit scary. I have built and seen bumpers built for much lighter machines (Jeeps and such), and the forces involved with just a 8 or 10k winch are already pretty big. I have seen 1 jeep pull its own frame in half. The other big failure I have seen is was on a homemade bumper where the entire bumper broke away from the front of the jeep while it was doing a heavy 2 line pull. He is dealing with a whole other level of force in a winch that is twice the size I'm used to, and questionable mounting. I don't know, it may be fine forever, or it may end up catastrophically. I think I would have liked to see a dedicated winch mount that ties into the frame in other areas, as well as the 4 bolts that he currently has. Receiver hitch mounted winches do not give me the warm fuzzies, although I have seen many of them work before without failure.
Love the look, the curves of the push bar work well with the old bumper. I would worry about the pulling strength of the old bumper too though, not to mention the hitch. What about getting a piece of heavy wall tubing similar size to the bumper, and recreating the bumper in that. Round the ends of the tubing(cut top and bottom and bend the front around the curve) and cut out the same large holes, then attach the winch to that, maybe separately from the receiver. Just have it bolt on with four 3/4 inch bolts. It would still be removable, and be far stronger, plus not stick out as far. Part of me says build a custom bumper with the winch integrated, but I agree that it has a cool look now and that would ruin it
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
Having that ability to push a trailer is super valuable. You can get a trailer into & out of tight places that are impossible towing from the back. Growing up on the farm, every vehicle had a front hitch and we used them all the time.
Them old Square hood International’s are good old reliable trucks if you keep after them, my first work truck was an old square hood and man did that old girl run. Nice collection of old International trucks glad to see someone looking after them
Thanks for a great year with Old Red and all the other stuff. I kind missed the dogs now.
I like machinery that runs well. How it looks is secondary.Your content and commentary is always interesting .
Like the idea of the winch on the front, I've always found out that I never had enough lighting when I needed it, so I add a few extra lights
I used to do a lot of mud bogging trail riding with my rig and when the first things I did was put a winch in the front I even had them on my daily driver front and rear winch winches were connected to a plate with the receiver so you can take them out. Color benefit of putting a trailer hitch in the front I had one on my truck it made for pushing the trailer where it sits in the winter it's like so easy it's always give it to back down like 150-ft driveway that zig zags through the woods and it's very tight so found out it's a lot easier to push the trailer with the truck and makes so much easier to maneuver that thing around.
Oh i have plans of adding all kinds of lights to the old beast and every other machine i own!
Liking the way you roll fella. She’s definitely gonna be work worthy.👍👍
As a mechanical fitter my cars were not always clean and polished, but I was taught to make everything to look clean and polished with no rust. It has stood me well because I was never the best but it was strong and workable. I learned to oxy weld first then arc weld came next and I was a decent stick welder, things I welded had to stand up to cattle pushing against it. I think I only heard of one thing being broken in ten years in that job.
I use to drive a truck just like it brings back memories they are a lot of fun
That’s awesome. Bolted straight to the frame
I agree with adding eyelets and also some work lights. Dave. .... Norwich UK.
To answer the question. I like the factory look. Not too fancy and chrome everywhere. I'd probably sand blast and powder coat it black or dark gray. But everyone has a different taste :)
Dont forget to put in the 1/2" steel plate behind bumper frame to frame drilled. i would put in some vertical tubes next to tube mounting to plate . Build a vertical protector you can just take out to access hood and tilt foward to protect against deer.. save you a fortune in repair cost..
Agree. Place the bumper inside up on top of 1/4 inch plate and trace out the holes. Run it past the bumper mounts to pic up the ends of that solid steel bumper. Sandwich that 1/8 inch one between for looks.
necessity is the mother of inventions, All the arm chair experts on here would still be stuck on a flat earth unless google told them it was round. Keep up the great work and have a Merry Christmas
It's great to hear your thought process.
I really enjoy the project you get into but there are some of us that have a strong curiosity about the future for Big Red.
You'll see Old Red soon... i've been completely rearranging the shop for the last couple months and now im motivated to get Old Red back up and moving so i can move him out of the way of the other entrance into my shop, and build a road with the old beast!
On our off-road Jeeps equipped with winch bumpers, we run a heavy plate from rail to rail, then we tie into the frome rail down each side as far as you can. Then gussets! Lots of gussets
No matter how much you beef up in front of the bumper, there's still only four relatively small bolts holding the whole assembly to the frame. Those bolts were only designed to hold the bumper on. I'd say make up a brace to go behind the bumper and bolt into the side of the frame and into the bumper at the front. ~|_____+_____|~ My ASCII art is crap but at least you get the idea. 😃
Totally agree.
Yes you should strengthen the front frame of the truck that includes the frame rails
Plate outer frame rail to outer frame rail
I agree completely! Those 4 bolts aren't going to be enough!
Everything looks great and I believe that you will know the limitations of your equipment! I would have extended the pipe bumper 90's out to the ends of the original bumper to give it some protection from potential hits from the side. And maybe an arch bar about halfway up in front of the radiator with expanded metal inside it for added protection.
I always like to add work lights and flashing lights. This is especially helpful in winter
When ever you have stuff in the radiator use dishwasher stuff like cascade. It does an awesome job
As always, I enjoyed your craftsmanship in fabricating to get to the end product that YOU want.
Dish soap and tap water, run the engine for a few heat cycles to get the sludge out of the rad system; that’s what we did to our C15 when the oil cooler went bad.
You'll see me clean oit the sludge in the next video coming soon!
I hope to see you sooner than before 👍
First time you do a hard pull your gonna taco that 1/8 bumper. I’d get a peace of 3/8 2x8 c channel and use it for the base bumper .
Welcome back! Been missing you and your videos!👍👍👍👍🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Old school welders built all the old stuff that’s still around today. Worked then, works now.
People also confuse dirty/rusted with rustic.
Rustic should still be clean and structurally/functionally solid and is not degrading (has some rust protection in critical areas eat least - like bolts and welds).
And no flaky rust/deep rusty pitting.
Diesel Creek always says "A grinder and paint makes me the welder I ain't" 😂
Can't wait to see what you do with the COE!
Good to see you posting
Happy Christmas to you and your family and all your followers 🎄🎄🎄🎄🎄
That push bar looks awesome. I would mount the winch on the angle-plate and bolt the plate directly to the frame, sitting next to the 2" receiver. Yeh, it won't look as sexy but it will be a lot more secure and functional AND thieves won't walk away with your winch by pulling it out of the receiver
Did not read any comments about grade 8 bolts, but there was some good ideas. Bumper bolts will fail. Do not stand in front of that bumper when pulling. Thanx for video, like your style, you make the work interesting.
*MERRY CHRISTMAS TO YOU AND FAMILY*
@Salvage Workshop you should install a vibratory motor to the dump bed , that ensures no clay or mud can stick in it when you dump stuff- hydraulic ones are best, electric ones drain a lot of energy
wider front tires make steering on soft ground easier - and easier going for the hydrostatic steering unit as well
like super singles or maybe even highway rated tractor tires like the JCB fasttrac and some Fendt have
if you seriously want to use the winch you should consider how you will stop yourself if you ever plan on pulling something else but yourself, crane outriggers really dont like sideways movement - they are not made to handle that - a blade as earthanchor would be better siuted
one cool thing i saw on a cabover dumptruck was it had a homemade 3 point hitch on the front - and a hydraulic motor with spline as PTO for tractor attachments
he used it a bunch - tractor 3 point mounted snowblower, rear tractor box mounted on the front for scraping gravel and dirt and backdragging - also leveling your heaps somewhat so you can drive over whatever fill you have dumped, also for transporting stuff on site short distance, like rolling on segments of concrete culvert pipe in the box and shutteling it 250ft to where it gets installed, also instead of your hitch mount he got a logging winch with a blade shield that you can anchor yourself on - since the PTO motor is hydraulic he was able to controll flow, so he could pull stuff fast - like a usual tractor logging winch or slow - this setup was also great because he was able to mount a big whater pump usually used for field irrigation or manure slurry loading and could pump out trenches and holes and start big seifens or even pump - to some extent mud
the biggest advantage is the cheapness of surplus farm equipment one can use - biggest disatvantage is you got hydrauics in the front and without anything attached it might look weird- therefor he usually removed the three links and fixed the lift cylinder to the bumper
very usefull is a frame fitting your truckbed you can lift on and off with a excavator with a grate made of welded concrete reinforcements - it will prevent any large rocks to get on your truck, like when you want topsoil but no roots and stones, or if you want to use rivergravel as roadbase but dont want big stone that get pushed up in frost heaves -that way you dont need to sift through it before you load it but do it while loading
ruclips.net/video/B7mD3mNr1CE/видео.html
for future , you should make a YT short or sth and ask for ideas before you make yourself a bunch of effort to the point where advise is worthless since you have already done it your way
we are into beauty contests.
Always enjoy your Videos and look forward to them! Merry Christmas!
So you have a heavy duty winch pulling off the stamped steel bumper you massaged with a simple hammer, that is held onto the front of the truck with 4 small bolts.
I foresee a bumper on the ground.
Nice work. It looks good and will function well. Please show us your trouble shooting on the winch.
I've been using the same AC stick welder since 1970. I need to do sometime better also.
I like the push bumper winch mount just the way it is.
You were talking about possibly doubling the winch line. I’m not sure the hitch/bumper would handle 34k lbs. I’m not sure it would handle 17k lbs if there’s any side or vertical loading. I didn’t get a good look at the frame end plates (bumper mounts) in the video. Hope they’re up to the task.
It is starting to look good but like these other guys I would definitely be adding more plate and bolts to the bumper and main frame. And too since it is a work truck I would paint the whole bumper assembly gloss black to match the rest of the bottom of the truck. A thought too might add some led lights on some pipe stubs to the bumper to add in workability and give it some character as well. Keep up the good work but let's see something more on Big Red!!!!
I would paint the bumper bar and all the add ons BLACK! Merry Christmas.
The hitch pin can handle all that weight? Would bolting the winch direct to your bumper be better? The hitch could be moved to the side for accessories. Use two hitches, one on either side of the winch. Then you'd have a really strong accessory mount.
Yeah, the hitch pin will be fine
To me it depends on what it is . I do love chrome... But nothing like a 75 ford pick up with a ding or two lol ..I dig the big scratch in the bumper . Great videos man.
Adding a vice to the truck would probably come in handy
Cut the mounting plates off of the tubular bumper,
turn them 90°, re weld and then bolt on same as white bumper.
I LOVE RUST !!!
Regards from Spain
Another thing you could do, if you're worried about snap-back on the winch cable, is to replace the wire rope on the winch with a Spectra winch line. Spectra does not store energy like wire rope does, and it also does not have the mass. If a Spectra winch line releases, it will snap back, but not nearly like steel -- it almost just drops to the ground. So, it will not damage the front of the truck in the event of a failure.
Great to see you. It has been a while. Have an awesome Christmas. Take care.
Minus the tools, decals & workers-
those two trucks together would make one Hell
of a tree service. Felling, hauling away, etc.
All you'd need is a trailer and a skid steer with a claw/thumb.
There is huge money in tree services. Get contracts with
insurance companies, so guaranteed pay.
Two or three motivated workers can make hundreds a day.
functional is #1, appearance is secondary at most. as long as it does what i want it to do, every time i want to do it, without being damaged, i'm a happy camper. if it winds up looking good, it's a bonus, but not necessarily a requirement. i don't want it to look like crap, but perfect cosmetics is not my goal. but i kinda like the mad max aesthetic, so that helps. edit; i made a front bumper for a chevy 4x4 1/2 ton out of a 6' section of 6" heavy walled tube. i welded a 3/8" thick disc on both ends to make it an air tank, with the driver's side set back in the tube to protect the shut off valves and quick coupler for an air hose. it held enough air at 100 psi. to fill two tires at 35-40 psi. i made a grill guard by welding 2"x2" square tube on to the tube. the whole bumper was over 200lbs. but tough as hell, and handy to boot.
I think that the small bar should have inserts between the small bar and the larger bar. Also you could put spacers between the large bar and the bumper. As far as looks i would have the bumper and push bar powder coated black, and you could put fog lights in the bumper. Another thing i would put in is a d.c outlet and a .c outlet so you could run different items. You could put a rubber hose on the outside pipe so you don't scratch whatever you push. That's all i can think of , have fun.
I wish you and your family Merry Christmas
Man......it's about time, thought you were gone and not making vids. I really enjoy watching. Thanks and have a merry Christmas and happy new year
I like an organized structured look utilizing steel round, square & plates with good looking welds. I like a painted finish just for protection not necessarily looks. In this project I would re-think both bumpers you are trying to utilize. I would do a completely different bumper made for you push & wench requirements.
FABRICATION is King!
Yes it is a nice truck , very useful thanks for the update !!
more videos and more videos of OLD RED
Rusty, beat up, functional, worked, did i say beat up? That's a hell of a bumper, man. Bit too heavy for the front, maybe. Really good for the back end. Thoroughly enjoy your videos, always learn something new. Thanks for sharing, stay safe and keep up the good work.
Add spots to put bow shackles on the front and a quick connect/plug for the winch that goes to the battery.
Looks great. I think you've done a great job. Merry Christmas.
Flatbed with Gin Poles going on my crew cab diesel pickup this winter. Also buying what I need to add a wrecker sling. I’m a mechanic so I need the lift more than the pull.
I agree with Merle, but I would use a 1/2" plate to be sure; also weld mounting nuts to the backside of the plate make it easier to bolt-on stay safe have fun
Strong and functional bit rust is cancer for metal. Good work, enjoying your videos.
What happened to the steel reinforcement on the back side of the bumper? I think you need that.
Hope all is well. I've been wondering where you have been..I was wondering how Old Red is coming along. Your 955 CAT Loader..Good video .
Plate the chassis rails (1/4" minimum) inside and out, run a heavy (1/2" minimum ) plate from rail to rail across the front. Then gusset the front plate back as far as you can to your inside chassis plates.
I agree i need to overbuild the bumper mount and how it attaches to the frame
1/2 inch plate behind. The bumper gusseted to the frame
Awesome video , Strong work . Thank you , Happy New Year ,
The best way to flush the cooling system. Is drain it then put Tide powder in and add water only. Then run until normal operating temperature. Then drain fill with water only run till operating temperature. Repeat until it comes out clear and clean. Then fill with coolant. God bless
Build it once build it strong. Onward!
Idea for strength of push-bumper: add a small block between the front bar and the "main" bar; the long thin(ner) bar could gain huge strength by a little 1/2" thick plate between the tubes!
Nice work
I do think the half inch plate across between and in front of the frame members behind the bumper would be a great way to attach and hold the winch.
As a heavy recovery operator I personally can not except the notion that the winch mount system that you have will hold up. In my truck which has twin mid ship winches rated at 50k apiece and also a engineer that forces that are going to be applied are to great for the mounting system. My best estimate is 8900 lbs before failure is going to happen and under that amount of strain it will be catastrophic please put backing plates behind the front bumper.
Good job. looks great
Nice. I've used a really good rust preventer since my days in the Navy called RP-342. It's a waxy cosmoline spray and if you have never tried it, I'm thinking you're the kinda guy that may fall in love with it. I buy it on the line by the case. It's not cheap, but you should give it a try.
I'm not keen on the rusty look, but I don't mind the look of the rough and ready beat up look. Not quite mad max, but well loved and well used heavy plant.
A new video, perfect Christmas gift!
Thank you for great content.
I'd replace the whole thing with a homemade pipe bumper with the winch permanently mounted behind it along with the hitch. The winch can come out under or slightly off center beside the hitch without effecting it' s usability. But like you said we each have our own preferences and as it's your truck you definitely should build it your way.
With this thing u can move the Empire State Building :-)
I love your videos! Merry Christmas!!!
Weld web stiffeners on back side of bumper.21/2" or 3" flat bar should do it. A plate will bend with the bumpet if it gets hit. Al B in Ohio.
looks good , remember to fit a isolator switch to the supply , put it somewhere that is easy to get to when you are using it , i would put it in the cab on the seat box ( to stop anyone doing anything stupid like pulling the rope over the top of the truck and shorting the two in pins (been done and made a mess)
good luck with it
Your back been looking forward to your next video!
incorporate some military truck stye Bow shackle attachment points, they will be handy for any recovery or double lining a winch
I think would use a double reciever mount to make the mount more rigid for side loading. Would probably have to enlarge pin holes for ease of installation / removal though.
Very nice!
Happy Holidays to you and yours :)
Since your tube bummer is completely sealed you could use it as an air holding tank to carry around enough air pressure to fill a tire or two
Believe the bumper in the bar part the bumper is just your meat between the mounts for bumper are what ur strength comes from so your bar won't bend bumper will bend or may bend brackets
Good build. I would also put a back plate on bumper, maybe an angle. I would also put tubing on end of plate winch is mounted to at end of plate, thick walled, and larger tubing on round bumper so tubing at end of plate slips into tubing on bumper. This would give you side to side and rotation support when pulling at angle with winch. I would be concerned the 2 inch would not be strong enough for that size of winch.
I would beef up the frame where the original bumper attaches. Like a piece of metal in between the frame to keep it from moving from side to side. Maybe burn a slot in the bumper and attach your winch mount to that. If that makes sense?
Hi, putting a winch this strong on a 2" reciever tube seems wrong. If the winch is pulling at an angle (which is almost certain at some point), the leverage will be huge. A quick search turned up that 2" recievers are kind of rated at 10000 lbs towing weight. That usually equates to less than 10000 lbs static pull. I´m not an expert on this stuff, but this reciever does not look like it´s strong enough.
It is.
You need to place the receiver pin further back towards the bumper, and put gussets on three sides.
Seems a bit scary. I have built and seen bumpers built for much lighter machines (Jeeps and such), and the forces involved with just a 8 or 10k winch are already pretty big. I have seen 1 jeep pull its own frame in half. The other big failure I have seen is was on a homemade bumper where the entire bumper broke away from the front of the jeep while it was doing a heavy 2 line pull.
He is dealing with a whole other level of force in a winch that is twice the size I'm used to, and questionable mounting. I don't know, it may be fine forever, or it may end up catastrophically. I think I would have liked to see a dedicated winch mount that ties into the frame in other areas, as well as the 4 bolts that he currently has. Receiver hitch mounted winches do not give me the warm fuzzies, although I have seen many of them work before without failure.
Just because the winch is capable of 17,500 lbs doesn't mean he's going to use it on loads that big.
Ok, maybe he will..... Temptation will be just too great! :D
Yes a backing plate or channel frame to frame.
Love the look, the curves of the push bar work well with the old bumper. I would worry about the pulling strength of the old bumper too though, not to mention the hitch. What about getting a piece of heavy wall tubing similar size to the bumper, and recreating the bumper in that. Round the ends of the tubing(cut top and bottom and bend the front around the curve) and cut out the same large holes, then attach the winch to that, maybe separately from the receiver. Just have it bolt on with four 3/4 inch bolts. It would still be removable, and be far stronger, plus not stick out as far.
Part of me says build a custom bumper with the winch integrated, but I agree that it has a cool look now and that would ruin it
Pimp my truck the Salvage way. 😁
Very nice. Love the clear coat.
Mad Max goes high fashion.
Missing Old Red !
That hitch on the front will definitely help you back a trailer into a tight spot
Maybe some D rings on the ends for help with snatch blocks and stuff.
Really enjoy your work and work ethic. Just would like more. Great video