Ok but the reason for those 5 star Tristan reviews is because of an awesome inside joke! Basically Scalpers in Japan have a habit of constantly picking up multiple copies of highly sought after Gunpla and reselling them at ridiculous prices, so the Gunpla community in Japan decided to fight back by spreading misinformation that the Tristan is a really good kit even going so far as to making Custom Tristans and putting 5 star reviews on online store pages for the Tristan and the Scalpers fell for it, now trapped with multiple boxes of horrible Gunpla that will never sell. Thus is the strange reviews of the Tristan youve been seeing and that you showed in the video!
In the wise words of Duncan Rhodes: “Thin your paints. Two thin coats will always look better than 1 thick coat” For me, most miniature paints thin well with water, and I’ve had great results when using them to paint gunpla.
Here's a tip for masking complex shapes: Place the tape over the entire part first and then push it down so it follows all the contours of the part. Then using a hobby knife, cut out the shape and peel. The tricky part is to not cut too deep that you end up cutting into the primer. You'd want to use thin, hobby grade masking tape and a fresh blade for your hobby knife for best results.
Dude I love this (hopefully) series! I want to get into customizing kits like this myself, and you sharing what works and doesn’t work is so helpful because it seems we’re learning together! Being unafraid to show off your mistakes and learning is something you don’t see in a lot of model kit videos so it’s a nice change or perspective. Keep up the great content!
Fantastic custom! Honestly, it's still great to look at even after you went into depth in pointing at the challenges and flaws. Here are two suggestions I would have. First is that if you're impatient like me, finish (cut, clean, paint, panel line, decal, topcoat) your custom in portions: chest and head first, arms and legs next, weapons last etc. Find a sequence that you like. I find that having these gratifying checkpoints in a build really generates motivatation as you can see how your finished custom is coming together. Another suggestion would be to determine what you want out of your custom. Do you want a beautiful custom action figure kit that preserves full articulation, or a stellar statue build that focuses on being an art piece over having a fully poseable gunpla. This personally helps me determine how to go about a build. I'm still learning too, but I hope this helps you and everyone because viewing custom gunpla is really awesome!
It's kind of refreshing seeing someone on RUclips customizing a kit with minimal prior experience. I hope you continue to customize future kits and post em!
Little tip I got from a Gunpla customizer vid some time ago, if you want to get hid of those gapping seam lines and still look like nothing happened, save the runners where the parts came in originally, when the kit happens to have those spaced spots you can cut the runner in smaller pieces and dip then in paint thinner, the thinner will kind of melt the plastic and you can use it to cement the seam over with a plastic that match the color of the parts you are working with, then just sand it to look like it’s a single piece. (I know it may not have worked on this kit cause it’s an old one, but still)
Trust me man he sucks ass this isn’t that impressive. He didn’t even thin his paints. On his last custom he didn’t even prime and spray painted on the runners. All three of these things are rookie level mistakes. It’s honestly embarrassing how he’s been building kits for years and been in the community but doesn’t even know the most basic modeling techniques. You’ll be better than him I know it.
Ok ben dover I'm just mad because my first and only custom so far is far less inferior to mechas first custom... Well at the very least I'm working on another custom. U can check me out on pinterest with blue nipper models!
@@maxaryan100 no need to be mean about it. I commend Mecha for learning through trial and error. It's an honest way to learn. Just because he's been building for years doesn't mean he'll be good at customization when he decides to get into it. Straight building and customizing aren't mutually exclusive.
11:22 Elmer's glue: before putting the clear bits in, slap a coat of glue, let it dry and assemble the parts. After you've primed and fully painted the part just peel off the glue. If you have liquid masking even better. Elmer's glue is a cheap but effective alternative. 17:16 If you had kept the runners, it would've been as simple as snipping a few bits of the same color plastic, put those in a sealable container with enough tamiya cement to submerge them in and melt into a plastic goo. You then simply apply said goo into those seam lines, let it dry and then sand it down. Seam lines, gone! 18:56 Decant your rattle cans. You may have run out of propellant but there's still plenty of paint left in that can. You can load up your airbrush with those leftover spray paints. No waste.
this absolutely does NOT look like a beginner's work, honestly. Time to get a compressor and airbrush, proceed to the next level of gunpla builder. I used tamiya spray cans before I got myself a compressor and an airbrush, and those cans are quite wasteful for spraying small parts.
@Bob Dole that doesnt mean they arent wasteful They are its objective fact you use more paint per surface than an airbrush when dealing with small parts
If you have trouble filling up the seams using cement and you are going to paint the kit, your usual everyday superglue(such as loctite) is your best friend(at least for me) also, if you use lacquer spray paint and panel line the kit with enamel paint, you won't destroy your paint job(unless you scrub hard)
More of this please!! As a straight builder myself, trying to custom paint recently, I feel like I'm learning with you and it's a joy to watch! Love it
11:29 try this for small or super detailed masking: pva glue. Just put a bit on a palette, brush on and rinse brush very good afterwards. Let dry then paint. Be sure to use the same kind of tweezers to remove the film as you would for a soft decal. A plastic cocktail pick or wood tooth pick is good to get an edge open. Otherwise, there are lots of masking fluids found in shops that carry drafting/illustration supplies. Sanding blocks/sponges are best found in beauty supply shops along with tweezers. Use binder clips, called bulldog clips in some countries, to clamp guns together. These are found anywhere stationary and school supplies are sold.
Cant wait to see what you end up doing for the IBO custom with how well this custom turned out! I'd like one of my first projects to be a mix of Barbatos Lupus(might get the Rex not sure) and Reginlaze Julia with some 30MM spear for a Final Fantasy Dragoon Gundam, so ill be taking notes from your released content on that Dantalion custom for sure!
I'm just casual modeller, but I'm gonna help give some tips 1. First of all, TOP COAT it, either flat or gloss clear coat it's make even unpainted gunpla look alot better, it's make the surface texture more uniform and smooth, also cover the brush mark and flush water decal with the surface. 2. You can use regular spraycan for saving budget but avoid flat color paint for easier panel lining and applying decals. 3. Its ok a little bleed on masking on harder shape, you can use hand brush clean it up, and top coat will cover the light brush mark. 4. Deep seamline need to be removed with putty tamiya or other brand if to deep then its need an epoxy putty but consume a lot of time. 5.And lastly, no need to be perfectionist, some of casual modeler i know that can produce professional work end up just top coating their kit because full painted kit consume a lot of time.
I just want to say, cause I know with how you talked there were a lot of things you didnt like in the process, the kit still came out beautiful! You did a great job choosing the colours you had and while it took extra work doing it is better than the work never happening. The colours are extreme for me but it would really has a great shelf presence for my kits now if I had it. Creative modifications in the legs to make colouring and disassembly easier is something I always love and even for a rough shot job your filing work looked clean. In the video I didnt see any Brush strokes on the guns myself which the decals probably did do a good job with. Lastly the decals were straight clean and tastefully placed, didnt feel overwhelmed with decals. For my standards as a customizer its easily 8/10. Better than a lot of my own work!
i make my own painting clips with alligator clips from the hardware store in the electrical section and bamboo skewers. they are much cheaper then buying premade ones.
Bro you did a great job! Just finished the video! I handpaint only bc of no room for an airbrush, one tip from me: just dilute your paint and work in several layers and you're fine! Keep it up with the customs!
Tip for hiding brush strokes, thin out the paint a bit more by brushing some of it off onto a piece of card or your table protector a bit. That way it reduces the amount of paint on the brush enough that you will be able to cover the piece but have minimal excess on the parts
It's really cool seeing the customization process from someone who hasn't really done it before. It's a great resource for other people looking to get into it. Also, love the use of matte. Not enough people use different textures in their builds.
Wow! Those Tamiya spray paints are downright sexy! I gotta buy me some of those, especially that Metallic Red! EDIT: People recommend thinning your paints with water. I'd recommend also using a wet palette for painting. Just get a tupperware, put a paper towel in it, wet the paper towel to make it "swampy", then put parchment paper over the paper towel. Doing this gives you a surface to easily mix paints and thin them as much or as little as you want, the paints also won't dry out for a while when on a wet palette.
-Tamiya makes tiny masking tape. You can get a pack of three that comes with a dispenser for a pretty reasonable price. -Tamiya also makes panel line accent color that is meant for use on kits that have been painted and top coated. It comes in black/grey/brown and the bottles have built-in brushes for application. (If you use the panel line accent color you will need to use enamel thinner in lieu of the plastic eraser)
If you're looking to spray multiple colors on a small piece ignoring the sculpt, I recommend making custom masks by placing the part face down on the dry side of wax paper and drawing the outline. Flip it over, cover the outline in some variation of scotch tape, clear packing tape is good because it has a nice width but NOT masking tape! Masking tape is too thick and not adhesive enough to work at model scale, that's why you get fuzzy lines and bleeding. Now make your stencil with a fine tip sharpie. Then you can cut it out, a bit oversized, peel the mask off, and apply it to the part (do not do this until the main color is *completely* cured). Peel off while the new paint is still tacky to avoid tearing.
I like hand painting my Gunpla. It takes forever but you feel so good when it turns out well. Model masters is a good brand for detail work. And the metalizers don't even leave brush strokes.
You did well for the tools you had. For the hard to mask areas, you can use liquid mask by Vallejo. It's a liquid that starts off in a turquise color, and turns see through when dry. It can be peeled off once finished. Give the base paint a day to dry and cure to ensure it does not harm it. I apply with a toothpick, dabbing over the small areas. It's great for chip effects too. You can combine with masking tape too. For the seam lines you have two options. Mod it like you did, or make it a panel like. So for the head, you could have used a knife to scribe a mirror line on the other side. But this can be hard to do with out scribing tape (to protect the plastic from sliding).
I really like these videos. As someone else who is trying to go through customizing his gunpla for once it’s nice to see someone else’s also struggling from similar problems and learn from that and know I’m not the only one out there.
Tamiya sprays are lacquer and GW are enamel. Which is why the panel line wiped off easily on the Tamiya sprays. Using a new blade to cut masking tape, which Tamiya masking tape is great, is a good idea. Zach from Zakuaurelies has a lot of great tips that has helped me in my painting adventures. Though he uses an airbrush, many techniques can be applied to spray cans. Gunpla is Freedom, enjoy the hobby how you want.
Using some makeup tools, nail file and tweezers are usually cheap and easy to get. May help you get into those harder to reach places that the sanding block you have can’t reach. I would suggest a normal nail file and a “finishing” nail file. I also spray my lighter colors first, mask, then spray my darker colors. I also, use a toothpick or skewer end to help make sure the masking tape is all the way down to prevent bleeding of the paint.
We all EU builders have an hard time find supplies. I live 50 kilometers from the nearest shop that sells some decent supplies, when it has stock. I know your pain. Try to find more common replacements, midnight hatter channel has some tips. If I had to paint a piece that goes in another piece, I would paint the internal piece first, then mask it with weak paper tape. When the outer piece is done I would remove the tape, and wiggle the piece of it is articulated. An easy way to hide brush strokes is to topcoat the model. When you build the mechagaikotsu custom watch out for the frame. I never painted an IBO kit, but it look a passion. Consider to just topcoat it if you don't need it in a different color.
i will say the wobbly lines on the black and white warning pattern looks really nice actually, it gives it a sort of industrial messy vibe, like how most industrial vehicles are dirty or scratched up
Hanf painting is really fun and really cheap you just need leveling thinner and if you are gonna get an air brush kit anyways you will find that you use the exact same materials Ie Paint Thinner Minus the 100$ airbrush Ive painted many kits All of them by hand and the detail and control is second to none In my humble opinion
Wow, I like the Cherudim Saga in Red!!! Ironically, it's a kit that I really liked because of the "weapons overkill" feature...I thought it eloquently answered the question of "How many guns can one Gundam carry?" (Eight). The way you customized it was incredible!!! A very clever take on the words "Trigger Warning" applied to a Gundam!!! Too bad you still don't like it, because you really made it shine!!! Very badass customization if I do say so myself!!! Eagerly awaiting the Dantalion (another Gundam design I like) customization episode!!!
I really enjoyed this one, it's fun to follow the beginning of a customising journey and it's a lot more relevant to the experiences of someone like me, who started customising Gunpla this year, than a video by a master builder and painter (as fun as those are). Plus the end result looks cool, it has a lot of character and there's a definite reason for making it the way you did. 'Trigger Warning' is a great mecha name too.
Most of the stuff I paint is by hand and the number one tip I can give is to get paint thinner. You want to get the paint to have a milk-like consistency, and it goes on smooth and dries with no brush strokes. Thinner saves lives. (also tamiya acrylics last insanely long)
One thing that is definitely worth doing is chipping. I usually just use a jar or either dark/light gray, get a toothpick and lightly tap onto edges. This helps me hide some of the imperfections. Especially for something like the hazard stripes on this kit. Just to cover up a bit of a shakey masking
honestly this looks really good for someone customizing a kit through trial and error. thats only going to make you better in the long run. i would suggest obviously an air brush and some tayima weathering kits to weather them and even get the gundam marker airbrush to use as well. i find both a regular air brush and acrylic paints and gundam marker air brush which you can hook up to a compressor are worlds better than the cans. i would use the cans for big projects like the neo zeong and the jumbo size kits. proper tools as well which thats an obvious. still great job on it.
i love how he puts so much effort into the sponsors like u could just talk about it while doing something but he puts so much more effort in to it and dank ;) oh yeah, does anyone have any msg anime recommendations
With GW paints your brush strokes showing through is probably because the consistency is wrong, either too thick or too thin. Try putting the paint out on some form of palette, even a small plate or old tile will do, and adding a little water until you get a smooth consistency. It took me years in the 40K hobby to learn that. GW also does this stuff called Liquid Greenstuff which is great for filling narrow gaps due to parts separation. Large gaps would require either Plastic Putty or an epoxy putty like Greenstuff. If you use elastic bands to hold parts together while gluing, it can avoid the problem of parts separation in the first place. Doesn't always work, yet it does help. For sanding awkward areas you can get jewellers sanding boards that are only 3mm across. GW's Contrast paints work really well over metallic paints, providing an almost airbrushed quality to them. Though you will want to use Contrast Medium as well. Contrast paints mixed with their medium are also great for Recess Shading as well. Paints like Tesseract glow would work in recesses where you want to impart a glow-like effect. Like inside engine nozzles, within the barrels of weapons, or possibly even on blades.
This has quickly become my favorite channel and I get legit bummed when I have to watch another reviewer... keep it up you're far more entertaining than the rest
I have a real old rubber grip vice from citadel (like, stopped being sold a decade ago old) I put parts in for seams but tbh a bunch of clothes pegs in the right spots works nearly as good. I have some insanely high grit sandpaper I can cut up for little crevices I got from Halfords/generic automotive and bicycle store. Also, as our lord and saviour Duncan Rhodes tells us, two thin coats. Put a brushful or two on a plastic pallet/ceramic tile and thin with a bit of water, and when it's fully covered you can scrub off that pallet in sink and use it again
Word of advice on those annoying seamlines: if superglue can't remove it, lathering it with some epoxy clay, then sanding it flat would work. No need to get those Tamiya epoxyclay boxes; you can get your prep and paint needs via hardware stores. - from a Filipino Gunpla builder who had to make do with going to hardware stores for some Pioneer Epoxyclay, sheets of fine-grit sandpaper, and large cans of Bosny spray paint... XD
I honestly loved this video Mecha G. Despite being new at the custom scene, you did a very good job! And I’ve hand painted my 3 NG wing kits, and I tell you. Hand painting them was hell at times. Mainly because of how the plastics were colored then. I have to get into color customizing as well, which hopefully will be with my first kitbash. Which will be a bash of Hyakushiki, Ez8, Tallgeese (1,2 or 3 cause I just need the torso), the rifle from the Nu, Alex’s shield, and a Zaku shoulder shield. It’s a mech that I made for a Table top campaign that’s close to my heart and I can’t wait to make it.
I know what you mean. I've only ever painted my Kampfer's shotguns and maybe something else, but seeing even Mecha get into it is inspiring me too. Here's to the next custom, bud!
In my experience is for brush painting, my advice is: sand in between layers with 2000 grit or higher and use thinners water makes the paint stick less and it pools much more
The reason why I custom paint kits even if they have a lot of issues with it is that I have a vision of the kit in a much cooler colour and want to make it unique so it's something no one else really has
Fill in gaps with some superglue and baking powder. You just have to mix it together and shove it in there. You can even make sprue gloop by melting down old unused model plastics in an old bottle of thin superglue or thin cement. slop your stuff in your gap and sand it down for a perfect seam.
As a fellow mediocre custom build, I'd say yours is great, never thought you could make a pattern with masking tape, very inspiring. I was so into metallic colors because it resembles car paint but now I'm going matte.
Fun fact. You can actually buy alligator clips at any electrical store. They're usually used for small jumper cables. You just need to buy or make your own skewers for it.
Hey Mecha, hope this comment doesn't go down deep to the comments. Anyways, I like to recommend to you the holy "Nano-glass file." It's basically cheap with around 1 dollar from where I'm getting it. It COMPLETELY removes some of the seams line of gunpla. Hope you get some man. PEACE! Edit: It's actually nub marks, but you can remove the seam lines after you glue it with some modelling glue.
For tools, there should always be something like a modelers hobby shop in the EU. It's generally for train modeling, and other like Revell type models and stuff like that, they will generally have everything you need for gunpla modeling as well. For sanding you can also obv just get nail files and stuff like that, or just go to amazon which'll have a good number of things! When it comes to hazard lines. You can buy very thin modelers masking tape that comes in various thicknesses. Tamiya sells it, or you can just get them from like aliexpress or something for cheap
thin your paint with water to hide brush strokes. if your getting brush strokes with games workshop paint its because your using it straight out of the pot without thinning first. only the contrast line of paints or their washes should ever be used straight out of the pot. Hope this helps!
Yeh you need an airbrush dude. I made the same decision after doing 3 kits with rattle cans and I've made the cash I invested in it back already with money saved from the cost of the rattle cans. You will never get the coverage you want with rattle cans without getting too much paint on the kit and wasting it. If you want that sweet deep colour with that smooth finish, an airbrush is the only way. At least you know how to mask now, and masking is half the battle with HG kits. Looking forward to some air brush vids in the future!
From 2:33 to 3:05 , the spinning display of multiple gunpla kits felt like as if it was some kind of Gundam video game (or just a fighting game) when you're choosing from a character roster as multiple characters appear and fade as you move the arrow towards each character.
Pro tip: the silver gunpla weathering marker is your friend, it ads great marbled silver effects for metallic parts, and is godlike for dry brushing when you're ready to weather a kit.
For what you learned, defiant improvement from the Hatsune Miku RX-78-2. As for this kit I wouldn’t mix paints from different companies like Gamesworkshop with Tamiya color. I’d love to see you tackle weathering, for that IBO Custom maybe some dust from Mars or scraped paint from fights with other Mobile suits, it’s all up to you but I’m trying to paint more of my kits as well. It’s awesome to be learning to make the kits look better or fit a custom you just want to make.
you can get a liquid mask that you can peel off after you are done. also for the seamlines you could try painting the inner and outer pieces, assemble, then seal them and patch the paint with a brush
I recommend the channel Studio G for those who want videos with brief explanation captions and not much talking (except for his talking head Q&As) when it comes to his techniques in customizing gunpla. Tools and tips are all given in his videos. Judging from the quality of his work, it's hard to believe that he only started Gunpla back in January 2020.
You've won me over with your custom videos, Gaikotsu. Next, you should make a video where you detail up a kit to look just like the artwork. For example, the Re/100 Nightingale or HG Gusion Rebake.
OH NO!? So Halloween will be the return of Fumina’s Revenge? We all gonna suffer with you Mecha ^^' Also, this custom build looks amazing! May I suggest a dedicated shelf for all your future projects?
Oh, I have to agree there, a shelf for that would be awesome. Also, a Fumina custom for Halloween? The head sculpt sure does fit for that really well already. :v
I saw that horrifying review... and I'm still scarred from it xD But I must admit, I was also scarred from it's appearance in the actual show, it was pure CRINGE! xD
If you want brighter colors without putting a ton of paint on, make the primer color or the color you put on before the final color, a lighter color like white. For reds, you can also use a pink primer which adds a lot of vibrancy and tints the top color to be more yellow or red, depending on the color. Base colors always tints the top color. Don't waste paint, tint the paint with a lighter color underneath.
Quick tip for getting a lot of clips, buy bulk alligator clips off ebay (£3-5ish per 30-40) and then buy bamboo BBQ skewers from the supermarket (tesco 100 for £1) and simply make your own. Also I use lollypop sticks cut to different sizes with wetndry sandpaper stuck to them with 2 sided tape. also cheap :)
I am sure other people have posted this, but if you take some Tamiya super thin glue and melt down some sprue/runner in it to make a slurry, and you can paint that over the seams to seal and fill them. You can then sand smooth afterwards.
I'm planning to make a custom 1/144 Devil Gundam in its Resurrected form. (The giant banana-slug looking form that it got by absorbing Death Army machines)
This is one of those Gunpla that'll show up in the battlogues either in the background or get prominently featured before being blown up by one of the protagonist suits.
I love how if this was the actual color scheme for cherudim, it would constantly get picked out from afar just because of how "LOOK AT ME!" all the colors are lmao
Not bad for beginners work, certainly way better than my first custom paint job. I'm not a fan of the sparkly metallic red but all in all, very well done.
Hey Mecha others have have already said this but you should try and see if you can get an Airbrush to use instead of the spray paints. The cans will always have less than you expect, and with airbrushing you tend to either thin regular paint which gives you a lot more paint to work with. And is great for even coatings.
Ok but the reason for those 5 star Tristan reviews is because of an awesome inside joke! Basically Scalpers in Japan have a habit of constantly picking up multiple copies of highly sought after Gunpla and reselling them at ridiculous prices, so the Gunpla community in Japan decided to fight back by spreading misinformation that the Tristan is a really good kit even going so far as to making Custom Tristans and putting 5 star reviews on online store pages for the Tristan and the Scalpers fell for it, now trapped with multiple boxes of horrible Gunpla that will never sell. Thus is the strange reviews of the Tristan youve been seeing and that you showed in the video!
Pro gamer moves right there
serve them right
BIG BRAIN
Should have review bombed the good kits for good measure lol(like Aegis Knight). Very good work indeed thou.
That's amazing!
The Cherudim is now red and 3 times faster than average
Ah shid
What would happen if it also used Trans-Am?
@@sgt_derpguy_2541 6 times faster
So... ork logic?
@@UMIF001 no 3³ 27 times faster
In the wise words of Duncan Rhodes: “Thin your paints. Two thin coats will always look better than 1 thick coat”
For me, most miniature paints thin well with water, and I’ve had great results when using them to paint gunpla.
ya i try to stay awey fron can paint coz it covers details
Especially Citadel paint, which he was using. It's very thick out of the bottle.
Here's a tip for masking complex shapes:
Place the tape over the entire part first and then push it down so it follows all the contours of the part. Then using a hobby knife, cut out the shape and peel.
The tricky part is to not cut too deep that you end up cutting into the primer. You'd want to use thin, hobby grade masking tape and a fresh blade for your hobby knife for best results.
Dude I love this (hopefully) series! I want to get into customizing kits like this myself, and you sharing what works and doesn’t work is so helpful because it seems we’re learning together! Being unafraid to show off your mistakes and learning is something you don’t see in a lot of model kit videos so it’s a nice change or perspective. Keep up the great content!
I think it still looks great. Besides, as a legendary, curly haired, bearded painter always said: There are no mistakes, just happy little accidents.
I miss Bob Ross
Fantastic custom! Honestly, it's still great to look at even after you went into depth in pointing at the challenges and flaws.
Here are two suggestions I would have. First is that if you're impatient like me, finish (cut, clean, paint, panel line, decal, topcoat) your custom in portions: chest and head first, arms and legs next, weapons last etc. Find a sequence that you like. I find that having these gratifying checkpoints in a build really generates motivatation as you can see how your finished custom is coming together.
Another suggestion would be to determine what you want out of your custom. Do you want a beautiful custom action figure kit that preserves full articulation, or a stellar statue build that focuses on being an art piece over having a fully poseable gunpla. This personally helps me determine how to go about a build.
I'm still learning too, but I hope this helps you and everyone because viewing custom gunpla is really awesome!
It's kind of refreshing seeing someone on RUclips customizing a kit with minimal prior experience. I hope you continue to customize future kits and post em!
Little tip I got from a Gunpla customizer vid some time ago, if you want to get hid of those gapping seam lines and still look like nothing happened, save the runners where the parts came in originally, when the kit happens to have those spaced spots you can cut the runner in smaller pieces and dip then in paint thinner, the thinner will kind of melt the plastic and you can use it to cement the seam over with a plastic that match the color of the parts you are working with, then just sand it to look like it’s a single piece.
(I know it may not have worked on this kit cause it’s an old one, but still)
Idk why the first thing that came to my mind after seeing this was the Hazard Trigger.
just missing the big blue button on the crotch
MAX HAZARD ON!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Would that blue button say something that sounds a lot like "cut"?
@@MDHasan-pn7oe
UNCONTROLLED SWITCH, BLACK HAZARD!
YABEI!
SUPER BEST MATCH!!!
I actually see it as rabbit rabbit form.
STOP FLEXING THAT THIS IS ONLY UR SECOND CUSTOM AND UR ALREADY THREE TIMES BETTER THAN ME.
My ego has been destroyed...
Trust me man he sucks ass this isn’t that impressive. He didn’t even thin his paints. On his last custom he didn’t even prime and spray painted on the runners. All three of these things are rookie level mistakes. It’s honestly embarrassing how he’s been building kits for years and been in the community but doesn’t even know the most basic modeling techniques. You’ll be better than him I know it.
You should check it'sagunpla first custom kit, this is nothing to him
@@maxaryan100 ok bro jeez
Ok ben dover I'm just mad because my first and only custom so far is far less inferior to mechas first custom...
Well at the very least I'm working on another custom. U can check me out on pinterest with blue nipper models!
@@maxaryan100 no need to be mean about it. I commend Mecha for learning through trial and error. It's an honest way to learn. Just because he's been building for years doesn't mean he'll be good at customization when he decides to get into it. Straight building and customizing aren't mutually exclusive.
11:22 Elmer's glue: before putting the clear bits in, slap a coat of glue, let it dry and assemble the parts. After you've primed and fully painted the part just peel off the glue. If you have liquid masking even better. Elmer's glue is a cheap but effective alternative.
17:16 If you had kept the runners, it would've been as simple as snipping a few bits of the same color plastic, put those in a sealable container with enough tamiya cement to submerge them in and melt into a plastic goo. You then simply apply said goo into those seam lines, let it dry and then sand it down. Seam lines, gone!
18:56 Decant your rattle cans. You may have run out of propellant but there's still plenty of paint left in that can. You can load up your airbrush with those leftover spray paints. No waste.
I started doing a custom kit for a contest, nothing has gone well and this video cheered me up so much, thanks a tonne, confidence restored
this absolutely does NOT look like a beginner's work, honestly. Time to get a compressor and airbrush, proceed to the next level of gunpla builder.
I used tamiya spray cans before I got myself a compressor and an airbrush, and those cans are quite wasteful for spraying small parts.
@Bob Dole that doesnt mean they arent wasteful
They are its objective fact you use more paint per surface than an airbrush when dealing with small parts
Call me when Mecha goes balls deep into scratch building with pla plates
Edit: Oh shit nevermind, he's making a kitbash Gundam frame, hype.
If you have trouble filling up the seams using cement and you are going to paint the kit, your usual everyday superglue(such as loctite) is your best friend(at least for me)
also, if you use lacquer spray paint and panel line the kit with enamel paint, you won't destroy your paint job(unless you scrub hard)
More of this please!! As a straight builder myself, trying to custom paint recently, I feel like I'm learning with you and it's a joy to watch! Love it
I actually want to see how he can make the cheddar cheese master look better
i think gunpla network did something like that as a mini series as well,
where they try and customize and fix issues the kit had.
@@fujitamakos8884 link?
11:29 try this for small or super detailed masking: pva glue. Just put a bit on a palette, brush on and rinse brush very good afterwards. Let dry then paint. Be sure to use the same kind of tweezers to remove the film as you would for a soft decal. A plastic cocktail pick or wood tooth pick is good to get an edge open. Otherwise, there are lots of masking fluids found in shops that carry drafting/illustration supplies. Sanding blocks/sponges are best found in beauty supply shops along with tweezers. Use binder clips, called bulldog clips in some countries, to clamp guns together. These are found anywhere stationary and school supplies are sold.
Cant wait to see what you end up doing for the IBO custom with how well this custom turned out! I'd like one of my first projects to be a mix of Barbatos Lupus(might get the Rex not sure) and Reginlaze Julia with some 30MM spear for a Final Fantasy Dragoon Gundam, so ill be taking notes from your released content on that Dantalion custom for sure!
I'm just casual modeller, but I'm gonna help give some tips
1. First of all, TOP COAT it, either flat or gloss clear coat it's make even unpainted gunpla look alot better, it's make the surface texture more uniform and smooth, also cover the brush mark and flush water decal with the surface.
2. You can use regular spraycan for saving budget but avoid flat color paint for easier panel lining and applying decals.
3. Its ok a little bleed on masking on harder shape, you can use hand brush clean it up, and top coat will cover the light brush mark.
4. Deep seamline need to be removed with putty tamiya or other brand if to deep then its need an epoxy putty but consume a lot of time.
5.And lastly, no need to be perfectionist, some of casual modeler i know that can produce professional work end up just top coating their kit because full painted kit consume a lot of time.
I just want to say, cause I know with how you talked there were a lot of things you didnt like in the process, the kit still came out beautiful! You did a great job choosing the colours you had and while it took extra work doing it is better than the work never happening. The colours are extreme for me but it would really has a great shelf presence for my kits now if I had it. Creative modifications in the legs to make colouring and disassembly easier is something I always love and even for a rough shot job your filing work looked clean. In the video I didnt see any Brush strokes on the guns myself which the decals probably did do a good job with. Lastly the decals were straight clean and tastefully placed, didnt feel overwhelmed with decals. For my standards as a customizer its easily 8/10. Better than a lot of my own work!
(Sees Yellow and black “hazard” signs with shiny Red) UNCONTROL SWITCH! BLACK HAZARD! YABEI!
SUPER BEST MATCH!
@@Quadrolithium lol
WHERE DID YOU GET SO MANY IBOS IN ONE BOX??
Was it ebay?
HLJ is my guess, they're packing magicians haha
i make my own painting clips with alligator clips from the hardware store in the electrical section and bamboo skewers. they are much cheaper then buying premade ones.
I did that as well. Stick them with barbecue sticks and they are ready.
@Brique Zallivam the ones I get are fairly weak
As someone who is trying to get into customizing gunpla, these videos are super useful, I love it
As an IBO fan, I thought you'd never make a custom, I then realized you were gathering parts, Nc
Bro you did a great job! Just finished the video! I handpaint only bc of no room for an airbrush, one tip from me: just dilute your paint and work in several layers and you're fine!
Keep it up with the customs!
Tip for hiding brush strokes, thin out the paint a bit more by brushing some of it off onto a piece of card or your table protector a bit. That way it reduces the amount of paint on the brush enough that you will be able to cover the piece but have minimal excess on the parts
It's really cool seeing the customization process from someone who hasn't really done it before. It's a great resource for other people looking to get into it.
Also, love the use of matte. Not enough people use different textures in their builds.
Wow! Those Tamiya spray paints are downright sexy! I gotta buy me some of those, especially that Metallic Red!
EDIT: People recommend thinning your paints with water. I'd recommend also using a wet palette for painting. Just get a tupperware, put a paper towel in it, wet the paper towel to make it "swampy", then put parchment paper over the paper towel. Doing this gives you a surface to easily mix paints and thin them as much or as little as you want, the paints also won't dry out for a while when on a wet palette.
That was the best advert in a video I've ever seen. Best gunpla reviewer and best ad placement.
Btw u got me into gunpla and gundam anime
-Tamiya makes tiny masking tape. You can get a pack of three that comes with a dispenser for a pretty reasonable price.
-Tamiya also makes panel line accent color that is meant for use on kits that have been painted and top coated. It comes in black/grey/brown and the bottles have built-in brushes for application.
(If you use the panel line accent color you will need to use enamel thinner in lieu of the plastic eraser)
As someone whos just got into the gunpla hobby his struggles were hella relatable Lol
If you're looking to spray multiple colors on a small piece ignoring the sculpt, I recommend making custom masks by placing the part face down on the dry side of wax paper and drawing the outline. Flip it over, cover the outline in some variation of scotch tape, clear packing tape is good because it has a nice width but NOT masking tape! Masking tape is too thick and not adhesive enough to work at model scale, that's why you get fuzzy lines and bleeding. Now make your stencil with a fine tip sharpie. Then you can cut it out, a bit oversized, peel the mask off, and apply it to the part (do not do this until the main color is *completely* cured). Peel off while the new paint is still tacky to avoid tearing.
I like hand painting my Gunpla. It takes forever but you feel so good when it turns out well. Model masters is a good brand for detail work. And the metalizers don't even leave brush strokes.
You did well for the tools you had.
For the hard to mask areas, you can use liquid mask by Vallejo. It's a liquid that starts off in a turquise color, and turns see through when dry. It can be peeled off once finished. Give the base paint a day to dry and cure to ensure it does not harm it. I apply with a toothpick, dabbing over the small areas. It's great for chip effects too. You can combine with masking tape too.
For the seam lines you have two options. Mod it like you did, or make it a panel like. So for the head, you could have used a knife to scribe a mirror line on the other side. But this can be hard to do with out scribing tape (to protect the plastic from sliding).
I really like these videos. As someone else who is trying to go through customizing his gunpla for once it’s nice to see someone else’s also struggling from similar problems and learn from that and know I’m not the only one out there.
Seeing homeboy not use gloves at 6:26 gave me shivers. Spray paint is is super hard to get off and can take hours of just scraping your skin raw.
Tamiya sprays are lacquer and GW are enamel. Which is why the panel line wiped off easily on the Tamiya sprays. Using a new blade to cut masking tape, which Tamiya masking tape is great, is a good idea. Zach from Zakuaurelies has a lot of great tips that has helped me in my painting adventures. Though he uses an airbrush, many techniques can be applied to spray cans. Gunpla is Freedom, enjoy the hobby how you want.
Using some makeup tools, nail file and tweezers are usually cheap and easy to get. May help you get into those harder to reach places that the sanding block you have can’t reach. I would suggest a normal nail file and a “finishing” nail file. I also spray my lighter colors first, mask, then spray my darker colors. I also, use a toothpick or skewer end to help make sure the masking tape is all the way down to prevent bleeding of the paint.
You turned a 2/10 kit in to an 11/10 masterpiece. And its only your 2nd custom?
HELL YEAH DUDE. Absolutely LOVE the finished result.
We all EU builders have an hard time find supplies. I live 50 kilometers from the nearest shop that sells some decent supplies, when it has stock. I know your pain. Try to find more common replacements, midnight hatter channel has some tips.
If I had to paint a piece that goes in another piece, I would paint the internal piece first, then mask it with weak paper tape. When the outer piece is done I would remove the tape, and wiggle the piece of it is articulated.
An easy way to hide brush strokes is to topcoat the model.
When you build the mechagaikotsu custom watch out for the frame. I never painted an IBO kit, but it look a passion. Consider to just topcoat it if you don't need it in a different color.
i will say the wobbly lines on the black and white warning pattern looks really nice actually, it gives it a sort of industrial messy vibe, like how most industrial vehicles are dirty or scratched up
That is a great choice of paint, you've made a metallic paint that is close to real life mech design
I dont think he even had to mix and match paints. I think he just relied on those citadel cans and a lot of topcoat
Hanf painting is really fun and really cheap you just need leveling thinner and if you are gonna get an air brush kit anyways you will find that you use the exact same materials
Ie
Paint
Thinner
Minus the 100$ airbrush
Ive painted many kits
All of them by hand and the detail and control is second to none
In my humble opinion
Wow, I like the Cherudim Saga in Red!!! Ironically, it's a kit that I really liked because of the "weapons overkill" feature...I thought it eloquently answered the question of "How many guns can one Gundam carry?" (Eight). The way you customized it was incredible!!! A very clever take on the words "Trigger Warning" applied to a Gundam!!! Too bad you still don't like it, because you really made it shine!!! Very badass customization if I do say so myself!!! Eagerly awaiting the Dantalion (another Gundam design I like) customization episode!!!
I really enjoyed this one, it's fun to follow the beginning of a customising journey and it's a lot more relevant to the experiences of someone like me, who started customising Gunpla this year, than a video by a master builder and painter (as fun as those are). Plus the end result looks cool, it has a lot of character and there's a definite reason for making it the way you did. 'Trigger Warning' is a great mecha name too.
Custom gundam frame type?
Interesting... I will look forward for it.
Most of the stuff I paint is by hand and the number one tip I can give is to get paint thinner. You want to get the paint to have a milk-like consistency, and it goes on smooth and dries with no brush strokes. Thinner saves lives. (also tamiya acrylics last insanely long)
One thing that is definitely worth doing is chipping. I usually just use a jar or either dark/light gray, get a toothpick and lightly tap onto edges. This helps me hide some of the imperfections. Especially for something like the hazard stripes on this kit. Just to cover up a bit of a shakey masking
honestly this looks really good for someone customizing a kit through trial and error. thats only going to make you better in the long run. i would suggest obviously an air brush and some tayima weathering kits to weather them and even get the gundam marker airbrush to use as well. i find both a regular air brush and acrylic paints and gundam marker air brush which you can hook up to a compressor are worlds better than the cans. i would use the cans for big projects like the neo zeong and the jumbo size kits. proper tools as well which thats an obvious. still great job on it.
For hand painting, I’ve heard that doing multiple layers in a lattice pattern helps hide brush strokes
i love how he puts so much effort into the sponsors like u could just talk about it while doing something but he puts so much more effort in to it and dank ;)
oh yeah, does anyone have any msg anime recommendations
With GW paints your brush strokes showing through is probably because the consistency is wrong, either too thick or too thin.
Try putting the paint out on some form of palette, even a small plate or old tile will do, and adding a little water until you get a smooth consistency.
It took me years in the 40K hobby to learn that.
GW also does this stuff called Liquid Greenstuff which is great for filling narrow gaps due to parts separation.
Large gaps would require either Plastic Putty or an epoxy putty like Greenstuff.
If you use elastic bands to hold parts together while gluing, it can avoid the problem of parts separation in the first place. Doesn't always work, yet it does help.
For sanding awkward areas you can get jewellers sanding boards that are only 3mm across.
GW's Contrast paints work really well over metallic paints, providing an almost airbrushed quality to them. Though you will want to use Contrast Medium as well.
Contrast paints mixed with their medium are also great for Recess Shading as well.
Paints like Tesseract glow would work in recesses where you want to impart a glow-like effect. Like inside engine nozzles, within the barrels of weapons, or possibly even on blades.
This has quickly become my favorite channel and I get legit bummed when I have to watch another reviewer... keep it up you're far more entertaining than the rest
The custom looks awesome and that red paint job looks amazing. The finish looks like a hot rod car.
No it really isn't
I have a real old rubber grip vice from citadel (like, stopped being sold a decade ago old) I put parts in for seams but tbh a bunch of clothes pegs in the right spots works nearly as good. I have some insanely high grit sandpaper I can cut up for little crevices I got from Halfords/generic automotive and bicycle store. Also, as our lord and saviour Duncan Rhodes tells us, two thin coats. Put a brushful or two on a plastic pallet/ceramic tile and thin with a bit of water, and when it's fully covered you can scrub off that pallet in sink and use it again
Word of advice on those annoying seamlines: if superglue can't remove it, lathering it with some epoxy clay, then sanding it flat would work. No need to get those Tamiya epoxyclay boxes; you can get your prep and paint needs via hardware stores.
- from a Filipino Gunpla builder who had to make do with going to hardware stores for some Pioneer Epoxyclay, sheets of fine-grit sandpaper, and large cans of Bosny spray paint... XD
I honestly loved this video Mecha G. Despite being new at the custom scene, you did a very good job! And I’ve hand painted my 3 NG wing kits, and I tell you. Hand painting them was hell at times. Mainly because of how the plastics were colored then. I have to get into color customizing as well, which hopefully will be with my first kitbash. Which will be a bash of Hyakushiki, Ez8, Tallgeese (1,2 or 3 cause I just need the torso), the rifle from the Nu, Alex’s shield, and a Zaku shoulder shield. It’s a mech that I made for a Table top campaign that’s close to my heart and I can’t wait to make it.
Keep going Mecha. As a straight builder you inspire me to start painting and customizing too!
I know what you mean.
I've only ever painted my Kampfer's shotguns and maybe something else, but seeing even Mecha get into it is inspiring me too.
Here's to the next custom, bud!
the hazard part for me is perfect, the bleed reflect the real life paint drips in some barriers. goodjob
In my experience is for brush painting, my advice is: sand in between layers with 2000 grit or higher and use thinners water makes the paint stick less and it pools much more
I understand that when you say it's bad, is for specific gunpla, not all of them or the mecha design itself.
Well yeah, but he's also still wrong sometimes
He's still objectively wrong
Yeah I still think he’s wrong
@@gundampeacekeeper Well, everyone is free to say they opinion
@@Gatoszilla78 about that, when people say what you said....they don't really mean it
The reason why I custom paint kits even if they have a lot of issues with it is that I have a vision of the kit in a much cooler colour and want to make it unique so it's something no one else really has
Fill in gaps with some superglue and baking powder. You just have to mix it together and shove it in there. You can even make sprue gloop by melting down old unused model plastics in an old bottle of thin superglue or thin cement. slop your stuff in your gap and sand it down for a perfect seam.
As a fellow mediocre custom build, I'd say yours is great, never thought you could make a pattern with masking tape, very inspiring. I was so into metallic colors because it resembles car paint but now I'm going matte.
Should see those camo patterns lol
Fun fact. You can actually buy alligator clips at any electrical store. They're usually used for small jumper cables. You just need to buy or make your own skewers for it.
I love mechas reviews such enthusiasm and love for gunpla but those sketches are just *chefs kiss* a nice cherry on top
Hey Mecha, hope this comment doesn't go down deep to the comments. Anyways, I like to recommend to you the holy "Nano-glass file." It's basically cheap with around 1 dollar from where I'm getting it. It COMPLETELY removes some of the seams line of gunpla. Hope you get some man. PEACE!
Edit: It's actually nub marks, but you can remove the seam lines after you glue it with some modelling glue.
For tools, there should always be something like a modelers hobby shop in the EU. It's generally for train modeling, and other like Revell type models and stuff like that, they will generally have everything you need for gunpla modeling as well. For sanding you can also obv just get nail files and stuff like that, or just go to amazon which'll have a good number of things! When it comes to hazard lines. You can buy very thin modelers masking tape that comes in various thicknesses. Tamiya sells it, or you can just get them from like aliexpress or something for cheap
thin your paint with water to hide brush strokes. if your getting brush strokes with games workshop paint its because your using it straight out of the pot without thinning first. only the contrast line of paints or their washes should ever be used straight out of the pot. Hope this helps!
Yeh you need an airbrush dude. I made the same decision after doing 3 kits with rattle cans and I've made the cash I invested in it back already with money saved from the cost of the rattle cans. You will never get the coverage you want with rattle cans without getting too much paint on the kit and wasting it. If you want that sweet deep colour with that smooth finish, an airbrush is the only way. At least you know how to mask now, and masking is half the battle with HG kits. Looking forward to some air brush vids in the future!
Really love your design
From 2:33 to 3:05 , the spinning display of multiple gunpla kits felt like as if it was some kind of Gundam video game (or just a fighting game) when you're choosing from a character roster as multiple characters appear and fade as you move the arrow towards each character.
Pro tip: the silver gunpla weathering marker is your friend, it ads great marbled silver effects for metallic parts, and is godlike for dry brushing when you're ready to weather a kit.
For what you learned, defiant improvement from the Hatsune Miku RX-78-2. As for this kit I wouldn’t mix paints from different companies like Gamesworkshop with Tamiya color. I’d love to see you tackle weathering, for that IBO Custom maybe some dust from Mars or scraped paint from fights with other Mobile suits, it’s all up to you but I’m trying to paint more of my kits as well. It’s awesome to be learning to make the kits look better or fit a custom you just want to make.
you can get a liquid mask that you can peel off after you are done. also for the seamlines you could try painting the inner and outer pieces, assemble, then seal them and patch the paint with a brush
I recommend the channel Studio G for those who want videos with brief explanation captions and not much talking (except for his talking head Q&As) when it comes to his techniques in customizing gunpla. Tools and tips are all given in his videos. Judging from the quality of his work, it's hard to believe that he only started Gunpla back in January 2020.
You've won me over with your custom videos, Gaikotsu. Next, you should make a video where you detail up a kit to look just like the artwork. For example, the Re/100 Nightingale or HG Gusion Rebake.
awesome build! water down citadel paints and double or triple layer to prevent brushstrokes
OH NO!?
So Halloween will be the return of Fumina’s Revenge?
We all gonna suffer with you Mecha ^^'
Also, this custom build looks amazing!
May I suggest a dedicated shelf for all your future projects?
Oh, I have to agree there, a shelf for that would be awesome. Also, a Fumina custom for Halloween? The head sculpt sure does fit for that really well already. :v
I saw that horrifying review... and I'm still scarred from it xD
But I must admit, I was also scarred from it's appearance in the actual show, it was pure CRINGE! xD
The Figure-rise Standard is out. You don't think..?
If you want brighter colors without putting a ton of paint on, make the primer color or the color you put on before the final color, a lighter color like white. For reds, you can also use a pink primer which adds a lot of vibrancy and tints the top color to be more yellow or red, depending on the color. Base colors always tints the top color. Don't waste paint, tint the paint with a lighter color underneath.
Quick tip for getting a lot of clips, buy bulk alligator clips off ebay (£3-5ish per 30-40) and then buy bamboo BBQ skewers from the supermarket (tesco 100 for £1) and simply make your own. Also I use lollypop sticks cut to different sizes with wetndry sandpaper stuck to them with 2 sided tape. also cheap :)
oh and also the six-stage nail files from b&m are a god send, 89p for two
dude I so much love your free tacky customization spirit, keep it going this is a channel on itself
I am sure other people have posted this, but if you take some Tamiya super thin glue and melt down some sprue/runner in it to make a slurry, and you can paint that over the seams to seal and fill them. You can then sand smooth afterwards.
I gotta say, it looks so much better than I did with my custom kit ,great work! Looking forward for more custom gundam
I'm planning to make a custom 1/144 Devil Gundam in its Resurrected form.
(The giant banana-slug looking form that it got by absorbing Death Army machines)
You've grown a lot this year. I'm both proud and jealous of what you're going to do with those IBO kits.
This is one of those Gunpla that'll show up in the battlogues either in the background or get prominently featured before being blown up by one of the protagonist suits.
The colors and design legit look awesome
I honestly really like how this came out it’s honestly really well done
6:25 YOU HAVE BLOOD ON YOUR HANDS, YOU MONSTER ! 😂
I love how if this was the actual color scheme for cherudim, it would constantly get picked out from afar just because of how "LOOK AT ME!" all the colors are lmao
Not bad for beginners work, certainly way better than my first custom paint job. I'm not a fan of the sparkly metallic red but all in all, very well done.
If you go to a hardware store you might find some small electrical clips, you can put them on bamboo skewers and make airbrush clamps.
Binder clips for holding down parts together.
Use hobby grade masking tapes
Definitely an Airbrush set
Plan before executing a project.
your skills with Tamiya rattle cans is amazing man. I use Airbrush, but you make this look good. Be proud of your skills.
TS-82 and TS-84 are indeed special metallic paints. But be sure to use them over a gloss black base coat if you want the full effect.
Hey Mecha others have have already said this but you should try and see if you can get an Airbrush to use instead of the spray paints. The cans will always have less than you expect, and with airbrushing you tend to either thin regular paint which gives you a lot more paint to work with. And is great for even coatings.
He's learnin, boys. Slowly but surely.