At 3:50 you show the barrel in the lathe with the steel center bearing directly on the inner edge of the bore. You stated that the crowning had already been done at this point: Doing this, there is a risk of crushing the edges of the lands at the muzzle with the live center, unless the crown is recessed or at exactly the same angle as the live center. If the land edges were squashed they could easily be cleaned up by re-crowning or better yet, crowning should be the last step.
Great video! I just rebarreled my 580 series mini 14 that had a 9/16" pencil barrel with a new 5/8" factory take off barrel. I shortened the barrel to 16 1/2" and threaded the muzzle 1/2-28 for flash suppressor.Installed and indexed the flash suppressor. This was a very challenging project but well worth it. Shots were walking all over the place with the heating of the pencil barrel but with the newer 5/8 barrel it is shooting sweet. Still got to put it on paper but looks good so far.
Using a pry bar as a receiver wrench is a great way to damage the receiver. Did you even bother to put a witness mark on both the barrel and receiver so that when you reinstall the barrel you can be sure it is in the exact location it was when it left the factory? Or do you just tighten the receiver and hope that the front sight is perfectly aligned ?
@@charleshetrick3152 The gas block is screwed on to the bbl so that has no issue.... except if the bbl is not correctly oriented the stock won't fit block correctly and you could have the op rod bind.
This poor fellow has a fool for a gunsmith. Go ahead and try his method and you might start looking for a new receiver. Not only twist the receiver if the threads are tight, but that pry bar will leave a nasty mark.
you must not indicate off the OD of the barrel if you want true concentricity with the bore. A bore plug gauge in the muzzle must be used that you indicate off and a three jaw chuck can not work. Baffel strikes are in the future done the way you demistraighted.
thank you for that info. this was my first mini. after all that work not sure if i want to do another one. i will take your advice. once again thank you.
I want/need a Mini-14/300 Blackout easy enough to get. Model comes with bull barrel, threaded with break. However, I want to keep it in NY... so gotta remove the break and put thread protector over the threads. Problem is without the break the barrel is too short. Can you make a flush thread protector/extension?
Hi Johnny, I notice you take measures to clamp the barrel in a manner that won't damage it, even cosmetically. Now, what about the un-cushioned placement of the narrow prybar and its proximity to the locking lugs and bolt raceway in the action? How about an action clamp to prevent the action from being distorted or indented at the contact points?
Thank you for the Tutorial. i have a question to you. can you tell me the thread on the barrel between barrel an reciever? i want to rebarrel my mini 14. thank you and have a nice day
From what I've found out researching the same information the thread of Mini 14/30 at the barrel/receiver joint is 13/16 by 20TPI. I am getting ready to replace my Mini30 barrel with a virgin Yugoslave SKS barrel that I just got yesterday. It will be an extensive machine work and will be worth it. Heck for 75 bucks brand new barrel, why not since the originalbarrel sucks big time.
How to you make sure the front blade sight is in line with the action when re-assembling? Is it possible to torque the action too far as to misalign the sight to the action?
If you’re going to do this kind of work, before you remove the receiver from the barrel you’d make an indexing mark that crossed the plane where the pieces join so when retightening you’d just line those marks up. The trouble is that there’s a torque spec. for the connection and often times the nature of how threads work after being tightened loosened and tightened again you may need to shim the connection to get proper alignment.
I have 2 Mini 14's Ruger, but the ramps of both barrels are at 3 o' Clock instead of 6 o' Clock and therefor the rounds are not feeding at all. Am I right to "assume" the ramp on the receiving end of the barrel has to be at 6 o' Clock ? It only makes sense to me at least. But, WHY is it there and how can I correct this without having the barrel being "loosy" ? Your answer will be very much appreciated / picture be nice
@javie223 in my opion, i feel both would be good shooting rifles. just depends on your desired distance and choice of bullet weight that you would like to shoot. both with a little work will shot 1/2 inch groups. hope this helps.
You wish taking off a ruger mini 14 factory barrel was that easy. A heavier barrel vice is needed and all i can say is action wrench, action wrench, action wrench. If any of you people try to take a factory pressed barrel off a ruger, using a fucking pry bar, you will surely fuck something up. This shit is no joke, and a trained gun smith with the write tools should be doing this. it is obvious this gun was prep for video.
Love my mini 14 !!! Do you own a 581 or better? I do! Very happy I went with the $70 dollar more option instead of an S&W 15 Sport!!! I may only be 2 MOA BUT I can save that $70 back in 1 - 2 range trips SAFELY chewing thru Tula @~ .19 cent per round and with Combat accuracy!!!! Cheap brass is ~ 36 cents per round!!! Steel cases tear an AR Bolt an extractor to hell! Not my MINI 14!!! I don't CARE about groups, I care about reliability with various ammo and when SHTF the inability to clean DI rifles and how my Mini and SKS have no worries when it comes to that!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
At 3:50 you show the barrel in the lathe with the steel center bearing directly on the inner edge of the bore. You stated that the crowning had already been done at this point:
Doing this, there is a risk of crushing the edges of the lands at the muzzle with the live center, unless the crown is recessed or at exactly the same angle as the live center.
If the land edges were squashed they could easily be cleaned up by re-crowning or better yet, crowning should be the last step.
Great video! I just rebarreled my 580 series mini 14 that had a 9/16" pencil barrel with a new 5/8" factory take off barrel. I shortened the barrel to 16 1/2" and threaded the muzzle 1/2-28 for flash suppressor.Installed and indexed the flash suppressor. This was a very challenging project but well worth it. Shots were walking all over the place with the heating of the pencil barrel but with the newer 5/8 barrel it is shooting sweet. Still got to put it on paper but looks good so far.
You put Rosin on your barrel.
You scrape Resin out of your pot pipe.
😂
Using a pry bar as a receiver wrench is a great way to damage the receiver. Did you even bother to put a witness mark on both the barrel and receiver so that when you reinstall the barrel you can be sure it is in the exact location it was when it left the factory? Or do you just tighten the receiver and hope that the front sight is perfectly aligned ?
Front sight post, I’m more worried about the gas port. But you’re right an indexing mark at the very least.
@@charleshetrick3152 The gas block is screwed on to the bbl so that has no issue.... except if the bbl is not correctly oriented the stock won't fit block correctly and you could have the op rod bind.
Removing the receiver with a pry bar is a sure way to damage it. You need to use a receiver wrench and jig.
Watch the RUGER Vids!!! Pretty close to factory method!
It took no effort to loosen it, hence no damage.
This poor fellow has a fool for a gunsmith. Go ahead and try his method and you might start looking for a new receiver. Not only twist the receiver if the threads are tight, but that pry bar will leave a nasty mark.
Any concern for headspace when attaching barrel to the receiver?
we checked the head space with some go and no go gauges. also the barrel has a shoulder that service as a stop. thank for watching our videos...
you must not indicate off the OD of the barrel if you want true concentricity with the bore.
A bore plug gauge in the muzzle must be used that you indicate off and a three jaw chuck can not work.
Baffel strikes are in the future done the way you demistraighted.
thank you for that info. this was my first mini. after all that work not sure if i want to do another one. i will take your advice. once again thank you.
Nice quality job!
thank you. i thought by using the brass muzzle/ crown protector i would be safe. i will try crowning last.. thanks...
I want/need a Mini-14/300 Blackout easy enough to get. Model comes with bull barrel, threaded with break. However, I want to keep it in NY... so gotta remove the break and put thread protector over the threads. Problem is without the break the barrel is too short. Can you make a flush thread protector/extension?
Hi Johnny, I notice you take measures to clamp the barrel in a manner that won't damage it, even cosmetically.
Now, what about the un-cushioned placement of the narrow prybar and its proximity to the locking lugs and bolt raceway in the action? How about an action clamp to prevent the action from being distorted or indented at the contact points?
Thank you for the Tutorial. i have a question to you. can you tell me the thread on the barrel between barrel an reciever? i want to rebarrel my mini 14. thank you and have a nice day
From what I've found out researching the same information the thread of Mini 14/30 at the barrel/receiver joint is 13/16 by 20TPI. I am getting ready to replace my Mini30 barrel with a virgin Yugoslave SKS barrel that I just got yesterday. It will be an extensive machine work and will be worth it. Heck for 75 bucks brand new barrel, why not since the originalbarrel sucks big time.
@@rafkend1422 thank you for your infomation, i hope you give us a look of your rebarrel transfomation. 👍👍
It's ROSIN not Resin!
He's smoked too much resin.....
i think the b&c stock is good for the money. they make diffrent styles to choose from giving you the chance to personalize your rifle.
How to you make sure the front blade sight is in line with the action when re-assembling? Is it possible to torque the action too far as to misalign the sight to the action?
Yes it is. Mine came like that from the factory but I didn't notice it until later.
If you’re going to do this kind of work, before you remove the receiver from the barrel you’d make an indexing mark that crossed the plane where the pieces join so when retightening you’d just line those marks up. The trouble is that there’s a torque spec. for the connection and often times the nature of how threads work after being tightened loosened and tightened again you may need to shim the connection to get proper alignment.
Hi Jc, what is the compound you put on the barrel before clamping it down and why do you use it?
Thanks for the DIY.
I have 2 Mini 14's Ruger, but the ramps of both barrels are at 3 o' Clock instead of 6 o' Clock and therefor the rounds are not feeding at all. Am I right to "assume" the ramp on the receiving end of the barrel has to be at 6 o' Clock ? It only makes sense to me at least. But, WHY is it there and how can I correct this without having the barrel being "loosy" ? Your answer will be very much appreciated / picture be nice
your ramp at 3 oclock is the extractor clearance cut.
so what does the mini look like now with the supreser on it
That is a hefty wrench.
@javie223 in my opion, i feel both would be good shooting rifles. just depends on your desired distance and choice of bullet weight that you would like to shoot. both with a little work will shot 1/2 inch groups. hope this helps.
Can you re thread a barrel from a Mini 14 tactical with 9/16x24 to 1/2x28 that way it can accept a AR15 muzzle brake?
If the thread minor size of the 9/16 thread is more than 0.5 inch then you can do it after slowly and carefully removing the 9/16th thread on a lathe.
nice. thanks for the video
Action wrenches are available for $84 on ebay . I to cringed at the pry bar through the action opening.
Can the front sight be removed? If so, how?
@farmallcubtractor very kool.. i had a gb model that would shoot awsome..thanks for watching..
Why don’t you use antisease on your threads ?
6:52
yes, you need a punch to remove the roll pin and the front sight post can be pulled off
Robert Temple, i would not know. i'll try to find out...
thank you for the info KeninMT...
This was done for a customer, I no longer have the rifle.
@MakeYaBootyBurn
thanks for watching!
You wish taking off a ruger mini 14 factory barrel was that easy. A heavier barrel vice is needed and all i can say is action wrench, action wrench, action wrench. If any of you people try to take a factory pressed barrel off a ruger, using a fucking pry bar, you will surely fuck something up. This shit is no joke, and a trained gun smith with the write tools should be doing this.
it is obvious this gun was prep for video.
Thank you!
now he can miss the broad side of a barn silently
Love my mini 14 !!! Do you own a 581 or better? I do! Very happy I went with the $70 dollar more option instead of an S&W 15 Sport!!! I may only be 2 MOA BUT I can save that $70 back in 1 - 2 range trips SAFELY chewing thru Tula @~ .19 cent per round and with Combat accuracy!!!! Cheap brass is ~ 36 cents per round!!!
Steel cases tear an AR Bolt an extractor to hell! Not my MINI 14!!!
I don't CARE about groups, I care about reliability with various ammo and when SHTF the inability to clean DI rifles and how my Mini and SKS have no worries when it comes to that!
ROSIN, not resin!
That was driving me nuts. I thought he was going to put some fiberglass or something on it.🤣🤣
Poor customer, three jaw chuck, no ZZ pin gauge indicated off the bore, pry bar receiver removal. Ignorance is bliss...
lmperiallnquisition, thanks...
Why are you doing this? And what are you doing? Call me dum. But you did not explane that Some of us are not gun Smith's. Sorry
Threading the barrel puts a screw-on type threading on the barrel so you can attach attachments such as silencers or muzzle flashes/brakes