This is what is often missing in videos, a man showing his mistakes, rather than just a video about look at me I did it great the first time... Great project.
Might want to start adding some padding to your vice grips, a piece of leather of sorts, the vice grip marks are visible on the gun stock and can be potentially left on any material you clamp in them
Yeah, it's frustrating to see the marks. But they come off easily enough with a final sanding, which I'll do when the rifle is nearly complete and ready for finish. At that point I won't be clamping it any more.
Amazing work, man. This just gives a glimpse of the mechanical brilliance that went into not just the design of these parts but of the design and manufacture of the tooling for the manufacturing of them. Every one of these machining operations for every part of these old guns would have been done on a dedicated machine with preset fixtures and tooling on production lines in giant factories well before CNC machines or even electricity in a lot of cases. Mind boggling stuff to think about.
I asked my buddy (who's a machinist) about the issue you had on the rotary table. I am not a machinist but maybe his thoughts might be of value to you. He said "Looks like rotary wasn't zero, add in tool deflection from a climb cut it probably shifted the part. Manual mills can be a struggle to zero circularity on because of the play in the handles and screw backlash. My trick is always choose x positive and y positive and move it about a half inch then back to your adjustment point. The other part of this is that the head may not be very well trammed, if it's tilted to the left it'll engage there first and the right will be out like we see here, it being out of tram would be an easy way to do this because you can get an absolute perfect zero on the rotary and still be out of square". I hope maybe that helps. Awesome project!
As usual your work is excellent. I very much appreciate the way you approach a problem and deal with it within the limitations of your tooling, skill and experience. As for "mistakes", I am reminded of a comment made by a machine shop instructor I had many years ago. It went something like this; the only difference between a professional and an amature is the professional is better at covering up and dealing with his mistakes. My hat is off to you. You are doing great! Reid
I was so curious about how this was going to go down. And was finally able to watch the complete video today. This turned out super well, I'm super stoked on the whole project.
This is awesome. I have Robert Ball's Mauser book and he calls these the "First Pattern Kar 98" and the "Second Pattern Kar 98", or Kar98A (note the capital A, different from the Kar98AZ or Kar98a). The Kar98A is more common with about 20k examples made, but most of both patterns went to Schutztruppen in Africa and Asia. Ball in 2011 had listed about 3 dozen surviving known First Patterns...most in the UK but many in South Africa and Germany too. Surely there are more, but I found it interesting. The only export customer was Mexico who only received a small unknown amount; apparently photos exist of them in use during the Mexican Revolution.
I realy think you should have turned down the barrel to fit the rear sigth cut the end of the base sigth and leave out the long distance markings re atached the base shortenned but with both front and back rings .the ladder needs a reprofile of the parts you made and fill in the pin holes ,you rush it ,take your time to think a plan before cutting parts , keep the work goin ,cheers.
Bakers fluid no 3 as a tinning flux is lovely and tipex works as a mask to prevent solder getting places you dont want, its not perfect but it helps. Appreciate the efforts you put in its a pretty ambitious project for any skill level. Be worth watching some joe pieczynski (joe pie) on RUclips for rotary table tricks and early Stefan Gotteswinter as you will want to buy a pantograph to mark your next sight project. I liked your fixtures to do the relief cut
You're doing pretty well remaking the parts with the limited tooling you have. As you mentioned, a TIG welder is a much better choice for what you had to do than the MIG.
This is what is often missing in videos, a man showing his mistakes, rather than just a video about look at me I did it great the first time...
Great project.
This has been a really great project so far, can't wait to see how everything turns out
Might want to start adding some padding to your vice grips, a piece of leather of sorts, the vice grip marks are visible on the gun stock and can be potentially left on any material you clamp in them
Yeah, it's frustrating to see the marks. But they come off easily enough with a final sanding, which I'll do when the rifle is nearly complete and ready for finish. At that point I won't be clamping it any more.
Amazing work, man. This just gives a glimpse of the mechanical brilliance that went into not just the design of these parts but of the design and manufacture of the tooling for the manufacturing of them. Every one of these machining operations for every part of these old guns would have been done on a dedicated machine with preset fixtures and tooling on production lines in giant factories well before CNC machines or even electricity in a lot of cases. Mind boggling stuff to think about.
I asked my buddy (who's a machinist) about the issue you had on the rotary table. I am not a machinist but maybe his thoughts might be of value to you. He said "Looks like rotary wasn't zero, add in tool deflection from a climb cut it probably shifted the part. Manual mills can be a struggle to zero circularity on because of the play in the handles and screw backlash. My trick is always choose x positive and y positive and move it about a half inch then back to your adjustment point. The other part of this is that the head may not be very well trammed, if it's tilted to the left it'll engage there first and the right will be out like we see here, it being out of tram would be an easy way to do this because you can get an absolute perfect zero on the rotary and still be out of square". I hope maybe that helps. Awesome project!
All good points, thank you! I do have to use the rotary table again to make the nose cap, so I'll be sure to check all of those things.
As usual your work is excellent. I very much appreciate the way you approach a problem and deal with it within the limitations of your tooling, skill and experience. As for "mistakes", I am reminded of a comment made by a machine shop instructor I had many years ago. It went something like this; the only difference between a professional and an amature is the professional is better at covering up and dealing with his mistakes. My hat is off to you. You are doing great!
Reid
Love watching you work on this. I wish I had the tools to conserve my own Mausers properly.
I was so curious about how this was going to go down. And was finally able to watch the complete video today. This turned out super well, I'm super stoked on the whole project.
Incredible work man
This is awesome. I have Robert Ball's Mauser book and he calls these the "First Pattern Kar 98" and the "Second Pattern Kar 98", or Kar98A (note the capital A, different from the Kar98AZ or Kar98a). The Kar98A is more common with about 20k examples made, but most of both patterns went to Schutztruppen in Africa and Asia. Ball in 2011 had listed about 3 dozen surviving known First Patterns...most in the UK but many in South Africa and Germany too. Surely there are more, but I found it interesting. The only export customer was Mexico who only received a small unknown amount; apparently photos exist of them in use during the Mexican Revolution.
It really is a labor of love! Awesome job so far!
There are early spanish mausers out there that use a quite similar tangent rollercoaster rear sight that the one you need for your kar98 sight
Being sure you are doing it right only to find you have removed too much is a very relatable thing.
Right on dude. Only .010 off. I'm not sure how i found your channel, but I've been watching since the beginning of the project. Gonna be good.
I realy think you should have turned down the barrel to fit the rear sigth cut the end of the base sigth and leave out the long distance markings re atached the base shortenned but with both front and back rings .the ladder needs a reprofile of the parts you made and fill in the pin holes ,you rush it ,take your time to think a plan before cutting parts , keep the work goin ,cheers.
He explained in the last video that he was uncomfortable turning down the barrel so close to the chamber, which imo is pretty understandable.
Bakers fluid no 3 as a tinning flux is lovely and tipex works as a mask to prevent solder getting places you dont want, its not perfect but it helps. Appreciate the efforts you put in its a pretty ambitious project for any skill level. Be worth watching some joe pieczynski (joe pie) on RUclips for rotary table tricks and early Stefan Gotteswinter as you will want to buy a pantograph to mark your next sight project. I liked your fixtures to do the relief cut
You're doing pretty well remaking the parts with the limited tooling you have. As you mentioned, a TIG welder is a much better choice for what you had to do than the MIG.
Ive been FIENDING for these videos man, you dont even know lol
Good work.
Nice job!
babe wake up a new Rakum Projects video just dropped
After reviewing the photos, I believe Mauser simply cut the steps of the chamber down.
Hunters Lodge has some Spanish Mauser rifles they are selling cheap
You’re amazing 😮
La hausse est celle d'un gewer 98 pas un k 98 k!
It's a Kar 98, not a K98k
I have the Gun your building 1916
Really?
Im way too early
Man really ruined a Gew98 rear sight for it to come out like that
Shit video in RUclips seen in my life