After waiting for weeks, the components finally came. I just finished installing the 3 components and you were right! The treadmill is working perfectly! I can't thank you enough for your excellent video. It saved me so much money and I learned a lot about SCRs, Mosfets and Soft Recovery Diodes. Now I can get back to using the treadmill. THANK YOU!
This is more info than expected. I have to replace a tiny cap on the board and I found your video while trying to figure out how to remove the glue on the edges. I got that and more. Thank you
Very good information.. I just replaced the mosfet... and blew the new one... replaced it again, and started searching before blowing it again... Makes perfect sense. Dimmer control on the incoming ac line to buck the voltage/current down.
My treadmill motor started at full speed and then quit. The AC circuit from the wall trips the circuit breaker every time I try to turn the motor on. Tested the motor and it works fine with direct DC. I will check those components. Thanks for the very clear and informative video.
Hi, I have the motor starts fast and then stops. I replaced both mosfet and SCR and it worked without the belt on the motor. When I hooked up the motor, it blew the two parts again. Too much current I suspect! I tested the motor with a power tool battery and it seemed fine. Would you suspect the motor is drawing too much current or could it be something else on the board as well? I have more mosfets and scrs, but no point frying more.
I have a question about re gluing the Board to the heat-sink assembly. @10:48. Will ordinary craft hot-glue work or is something else needed? I have an MC-2100LC-30 board
Great video. My issue appeared to be a mosfet because the treadmill ramped up fast and then almost immediately shut down. It did this twice, then it wouldn't do anything after the 2nd attempt to run the treadmill. Once I got access to the control panel the led wasn't lit or blinking and the hfa15pb60 beside the mosfet is burnt. Have you ever encountered a burnt hfa15pb60 and is it fixable?
Greetings, I am about to change out the MOSFET and scr. Thanks for the tutorial. My understanding is that the older type MOSFET is replaced with a new type. Also, I could not find anywhere that gave me insight into what the other markings on the MOSFET stand for besides the actual part number. My symptoms were rapid spin up and shut off. None of the board components have any outward signs they failed. No bulges, burns, leaks nor tears. Thanks again. Appreciated.
Replacing the MOSFET and SCR should fix the issue but it doesn't always work. I have had good success on several repairs but I have also had it not fix the issue one time.
I have a u-mc 2100-12a board on my tread mill. Motor wont turn. Hooked motor up to a 9v battery and it spun. Control panel of tread mill lights up and works. Led on motor controller flashes when you hit go, like it should. Under side of the motor board has a burnt spot at the Q2 mosfet. You think just replacing the mosfet would fix it?
Tradmill was initially acting as you said (power but motor goes to high then cuts out), so I replaced both parts. Everything is pluged back where its supposed to. I plug in the treadmill, flip the red switch and it trips the breaker at the house panel. Any ideas?? Time for a new treadmill maybe. The wife will be happy... she likes spending the moolaa.
hello, thanks for the information you give with this video. I would like to ask you how can I start the engine directly from the board to test on the bench?
Thanks for all the great info on treadmill controlling, have studied most of your videos and I am curious about a JC22-001 Johnson fitness board and wonder if you have any experience with them or knowledge about using them?
I want to consult with you about something: I am having difficulty removing the board from the heat sink. I have already removed the hot glue stuff (as much as possible), then I also removed the bolts that are holding 4 heat sink components to the heat sink, and I removed the grounding strap from the body of the heat sink. And yet after that, I can not move the board even a tiny bit at all. Is there anything to alleviate the removal procedure somehow? Thanks.
Some times they get cocked in the slider groove. Could also be a tight fit. a small amount of pressure between the aluminum rails may be all you need to get it out.
Trying to do that for the last 15-30 min, no success so far. Was even using a small needle to get to the slider groove somehow to remove the remnants of the hot glue. I can even see that the board has started moving in vertical direction, but so far not in the direction that I need it. I'll keep on trying though.
I finally managed to get it out after 2 days of trying. And I did it in the direction (can you imagine?) opposite to yours in your video. I understand that the slider grooves are there up to the very edges from both sides: left and right. But no matter how hard I tried to get it out from the right side of the heat sink (by pushing the controller from the left or pulling it from the right), I could not do it. Then, there was approximately 1" from the left side of the heat sink and the left side of the controller, whereas on the right side --> both of them (controller and heat sink) were on the same level. And then it hit me: why don't I try to push it in from the right side? And I did it with my two big fingers from the right side, while I was holding the heat sink with the rest. And it worked: even that slightest push -- moved the controller immediately half way through, the rest was easy... I hope this info might help someone someday... Good Luck!
I have removed them from either direction so I would guess there was a barb or something holding your up in one direction however I will add this info to my knowledge base in case someone else has a similar problem.
Hello, my motor would start in fuul speed then stop, so i replaced the IRFP250N then it satrted to work normally but the moment you walk on treadmill, very weak power, then samething happened again, so i waited the S4025L ti come in and changed both this time samething works fine but dramatically LOSS OF POWER, what can cause it?
Power is directly related to amps so something is limiting current flow but I am not sure what. My expertise is in using these types of boards outside the treadmill so I only have limited knowledge on repairs.
Excellent video! Questions: Do you know where I might obtain a schematic diagram of the MC-2100? 2) Does this also output 12VDC to power the treadmill display, etc? My daughter's treadmill's display does not power up but the LED light on the MC-2100 is solid red. Any help in pointing me would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank you!
I do not have schematic, but If you look at the large connector on the MC2100 the 12V output is labeled. That is what provides power to the display and you should be able to test it with a meter. Makes sense that the LED on the board is solid red because it is not getting the required PWM signal from the control panel. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
hard to say. The console gets its' power from the MC2100 so it could be an issue on the board, a bad connection or the console itself has failed. The MC2100 is labeled at the console connecter and the voltage outputs are clearly marked. Using a meter to test them will let you know if the MC2100 is producing power.
Thanks so much for this information. I have two of these controllers I am using on various machines and am sure one of these days this will be very helpful. I also have a TW-110D controller out of a Nordic Track treadmill and am having trouble finding any information on the pins to connect a PMW controller. If you have any suggestions on how to go about identifying the correct pins I would appreciate it very much. Thanks
I've got this controller on my treadmill. Here is the behavior I've observed: 1. System/display originally struggled to turn on/boot. It would flash on, but then just stay off. 2. After leaving unplugged for awhile I plugged the treadmill back in. The System/screen booted per usual (LED on board is lit) 3. Deck height controller works as intended 4. Trying to initiate the track on the treadmill results in the LED flashing (PWM appears to being sent) 5. Treadmill starts to move, but doesn't gain more than a minimal speed, nor have any torque/'power' (you can almost stop it by stepping on the deck) 6. Adjusting the desired speed (even to maximum), results in the speed slightly increasing, but after a few moments reduces back down to a slow crawl. (LED during this time has a much slower flashing cadence, as I assume it's trying to provide longer pulses to the motor) I observe no noticable damage to the capacitors or any obvious signs of failure of the mosfets. However, perhaps they are just in a super weakened state? Might it be worth replacing them for the heck of it?
I honestly don't know. I am not a treadmill repair expert. My only guess is that something is not right with the control board console. You could test the 2100 and motor with a PWM to know for sure.
Great video! I wish i saw this before i blew up two mosfets! lol. Luckilly the pack has 3 left and i can pick up some of those SCRs. It is fairly easy to replace im just hoping i didnt damage the cunducting strip on the board when the mosfet exploded. You mentioned a differnt type of board is there a good swap for treadmill? I can run quite a bit lol.
hopefully replacing the SCR as well fixes your problem. Works about 3/4 of the time. I don't have a good swap for a treadmill as a treadmill needs its specific controls and board for adequate safety features. The power supply I mentioned is for those using a treadmill motor in something other than a treadmill.
I have a similar fault, the LED never flashes when the engine starts and the engine turns off when it starts, the power mosfet burns out, what can I do? or what should I check?
As I said in the video, often times the SCR being stuck will burn up the MOSFET and that it why I recomend replacing both however it doesn't always work. I have fixed several but had one that replacing both components didn't fix the issue.
The motor or the speed sensor is going bad. There also maybe to much amp draw because the walking deck or walking belt is worn. Get your multimeter and test the amp draw or should be higher than 3amps without a load with a load 4-6 amps is good. Depending on the weight of the user. Check your speed sensor Check the brushes in the motor on each side make sure there atleast a inch any deep curvature will mean they are bad and no longer making contact to the commentator. Speed sensor signal short in the wire. I’m a treadmill repair tech lmk if you need help
its just a class 2 transformer. 120V in 16 volts out. A lot of these boards use a larger one that is mounted outside the board and simple connects to the board.
Kinda got a million questions. One is a pwm a pwm meaning cheap or nah? And what pin does the blue wire go to from pwm? I'll leave it there. Thank you for some details I didn't know
I like the knob type PWM that I have linked in the description. Slightly better quality and still affordable. As to wiring this video will answer those questions ruclips.net/video/jLqcvYD_Mnk/видео.html
@@dazecars would this set up be more less the same through every board with this style? Given different hertz and plugs. I'm assuming the pwm module is in sense the ucb of the tm and turning the knob is just the speed up/down buttons
Not quite sure I completely understand you question so if I don't quite answer it please ask again. The PWM at 20 Hz works on all MC2100s regardless of board revision and it also works on the MC1650LS. Many other modern treadmill boards also use a PWM signal to trigger their motor control board but I don't know the wiring or the initial Hz. That is why I don't have a hack for every possible treadmill board. As far as the way the speed control works the MC2100 is using the pulses from the signal generator to trigger the on off action of the MOSFET which in turn controls the power output of the board. The knob on the signal generator is simply to adjust the duty cycle in the Hz range. I hope that answers your question, if not let me know.
Hi there, first of all thank you so much for the video, it really clarifies pretty much everything you need to know about this board. I have a treadmill that will no start, I have power but the motor doesn't run. Since the LED on the board is on I assumed it could be a motor problem. I opened it, checked the resistance bar to bar, and 180º and it seems ok, can it be a board problem? Thank you very much.
My treadmill would start up fully open then stop. I replaced the moseft and it started working like it should but the motor now has no torque. The motor has good brushes and good magnetic so it seems good but doesnt seem to be getting the correct voltage. Any ideas? Or is the board bad
First and foremost volts do not affect torque except at the lowest speeds. Torque is a function of amps and if you are experiences reduced torque than there is something limiting amp flow. I would start by replacing the other component that I recommend replacing at the same time as the MOSFET. Also what is the torque rating of the motor, could be a smaller cheaper motor that doesn't have much torque to begin with.
I replaced both the IRFP250 and the S4025L (the original SCR was S9010). The minute I pressed START on treadmill, the S4025L literally POPPED/cracked in half. I have a few more S4025L and considering replacing 1 more time to rule out a faulty thyristor. Anyone else have any thoughts? I have the MC-2100 board Rev B. Thanks in advance.
one more time will likely result in the same issue. I do not have a solution for you. typically its a combination of the MOSFET and SCR but being that you replaced them both I do not know what is causing your issue.
I wasn't hoping to find anything about this controler and there you are with this amazing video. I'm fixing MC2100ELS-18W the mosfet is schorted but also the IC next to it is blown up it's in SOP-8 package i guess it's some sort of mosfet driver byt I don't know it's specs because markinks are blown. If you cold write me what are the numbers on this part i will be really thankful (it's a black smd camponent closest to mosfet with 8 legs on a version of the controller with small ferrite core transformer)
Hi there. I got an MC2100LTS-30 working fine except it won't incline down (only up). After testing everything else, I replaced the MCB and the problem was fixed. So, now that I know everything else is fine and the old controller is bad, I'm trying to fix it following your recommendations. Although I believe these won't affect the incline (only the belt motor), I replaced both the MOSFET and the SCR, but it still won't incline down. Any suggestions? Have you tried changing the safety capacitors (MPX-X2, 275V, 0.1k) or any other components to fix this "no incline down" problem?
The MC2100 board has nothing to do with the incline motor. An incline motor is AC and when power is applied one way it goes one direction and when applied the other way it goes the other direction. Some incline motors have a stop switch inside the incline motor and if that switch is bad that would explain why it's only going one direction. You could also have a bad connection. This video may help but there are lots of different incline motor configurations so it may or may not apply. ruclips.net/video/ce9I55OeDWY/видео.html
@@dazecarsThanks for your reply. I agree with all you've said, but as I mentioned in my original message, I already replaced the controller board (MCB) and everything worked perfectly, including the incline motor moving up & down. The old MCB seems to be the problem, since it's sending AC voltage through just one of the wires on the 3-wire incline harness. I confirmed that by inserting the incline connector the other way around, and then it inclines down when I press the incline up button, but it does not move when I press the incline down. Therefore, the problem is not in the incline motor. That's what I'm trying to diagnose... therefore my previous question "Have you tried changing the safety (yellow) capacitors (MPX-X2, 275V, 0.1k) or any other components to fix this "no incline down" problem?"... Why isn't AC voltage coming out of one of the incline connector pins? Any clues?
I honestly don't know. I am not a treadmill repair expert just a guy with some basic electronics knowledge and some experience using treadmill parts in other projects. I was just trying to trouble shoot your issue as best as I could and do not have any other ideas.
Hi, thanks for a great video. My Proform 415 treadmill with the 2100 Rev B PCB ran great for 12 years, but then it would run for a second and pop the "arc fault" breaker that is in the house panel for my bedroom. I tested the motor with a 12v DC battery and it ran without problems. I replaced the IRFP 250N Mosfet, the old one tested bad. And I connected the treadmill to a non "arc fault" outlet. Now, the light stays solid on the board, the control panel on the treadmill works and I can use the incline motor up and down no problem. But when I go to start the treadmill, it runs for a second or two, then pops the breaker on the front of the treadmill, but not the house panel breaker. And the control panel stays on and the red light on the CB stays on, but a "burning electrical smell" came from the motor. Not sure what to do next, I could take the motor apart I suppose. I'm leery of getting a new motor, cause it might fry. I don't mind puttering around with it, replacing chips and caps but I would just get a new treadmill if I have to spend a couple hundred dollars to get it going again, because it is old. Any ideas?
if the motor is running no problem on 12V I would say the motor is not the issue. If the motor was the issue it would not work in any configuration. Did you replace the SCR chip like I suggest in my video when you replaced the MOSFET? As I said those two chips work in tandem, one on the AC side and one on the DC side and if either one is "stuck" shunting full voltage that could cause a surge to the motor which would cause some burning smell from the brushes and the breaker to pop.
@@dazecars I did not replace that SCR chip, they take a few weeks to get delivered. But I will order one (some) and wait for it. Replacing the chips is not hard or expensive. I have several of the MOSFET chips already. Thank you for getting back to me, I was going to take the motor apart but I will wait and try the SCR chip.
@@dazecars Hi Dazecars, I got the SCR chip and installed it and also replaced the MOSFET since I had several and the board was out while I was at it. I plugged in the treadmill, the console was working and the red light was solid. When I pressed the start at 2mph button the motor ran for like a half second and there was a big POP and flash. No electrical smell though. The red light went out, but the console stayed on. and the incline no longer works. Where the treadmill is like 14 years old, I think I will just get a new one or an elliptical machine. But I appreciate the help, and found replacing the components somehow relaxing. Thank you.
"contact DazeCars" is in the "about/contact" section of the menu on www.dazecars.com Sorry for the hassle like I said before just trying to eliminate spam.
good morning I have a problem with this MC2100 board and the LED has a solid light, I have already connected the PWM to the HD2 plug, the PWM is blind to pin 13 of the micro, the pulse width varies as I change it, but not even to pin 8 of the micro to open the voltage on the SCR Not even 12 has any modulated signal. is there any tip?
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
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After waiting for weeks, the components finally came. I just finished installing the 3 components and you were right! The treadmill is working perfectly! I can't thank you enough for your excellent video. It saved me so much money and I learned a lot about SCRs, Mosfets and Soft Recovery Diodes. Now I can get back to using the treadmill. THANK YOU!
Glad I was able to help!!
This is more info than expected. I have to replace a tiny cap on the board and I found your video while trying to figure out how to remove the glue on the edges. I got that and more. Thank you
You are very welcome, I am glad it was helpful to you.
I always learn something clever when I stop by - Thank you
that's my goal so good to hear I am doing something correctly
Very good information.. I just replaced the mosfet... and blew the new one... replaced it again, and started searching before blowing it again... Makes perfect sense. Dimmer control on the incoming ac line to buck the voltage/current down.
Glad it helped
This was exactly what I was looking for. Thank you
Glad I could help!
My treadmill motor started at full speed and then quit. The AC circuit from the wall trips the circuit breaker every time I try to turn the motor on. Tested the motor and it works fine with direct DC. I will check those components. Thanks for the very clear and informative video.
sounds like replacing the MOSFET and SCR will get you going
Hi,
I have the motor starts fast and then stops. I replaced both mosfet and SCR and it worked without the belt on the motor. When I hooked up the motor, it blew the two parts again. Too much current I suspect!
I tested the motor with a power tool battery and it seemed fine. Would you suspect the motor is drawing too much current or could it be something else on the board as well? I have more mosfets and scrs, but no point frying more.
was this the motor that came with the MC2100 in the treadmill or something you got from somewhere else?
It is the original motor with the treadmill.
I would say it is a problem with the MC-2100 then but I don't know what the problem would be. Those boards produce good power but they are fragile.
I have a question about re gluing the Board to the heat-sink assembly. @10:48. Will ordinary craft hot-glue work or is something else needed? I have an MC-2100LC-30 board
hot glue is exactly what it is.
@dazecars ok. Mine was Grey in color. Thanks for the tip
Glad I could help
Great video. My issue appeared to be a mosfet because the treadmill ramped up fast and then almost immediately shut down. It did this twice, then it wouldn't do anything after the 2nd attempt to run the treadmill. Once I got access to the control panel the led wasn't lit or blinking and the hfa15pb60 beside the mosfet is burnt. Have you ever encountered a burnt hfa15pb60 and is it fixable?
That is the flyback diode and is easily replaceable. make sure when you replace the MOSFET that you also replace the SCR
Thank you. Ill give it a shot
👍
Thank you, very good info. Where do you find info on how these boards work? I have an MC1648DLS board but can not find any info on it.
I don't have a hack for that board
Greetings, I am about to change out the MOSFET and scr. Thanks for the tutorial. My understanding is that the older type MOSFET is replaced with a new type. Also, I could not find anywhere that gave me insight into what the other markings on the MOSFET stand for besides the actual part number. My symptoms were rapid spin up and shut off. None of the board components have any outward signs they failed. No bulges, burns, leaks nor tears. Thanks again. Appreciated.
Replacing the MOSFET and SCR should fix the issue but it doesn't always work. I have had good success on several repairs but I have also had it not fix the issue one time.
@@dazecars Tks for the reply. Should the repair fail to work, I will consign my treadmill to the great trashheap in the sky, sigh!
hope it works
I have a u-mc 2100-12a board on my tread mill. Motor wont turn. Hooked motor up to a 9v battery and it spun. Control panel of tread mill lights up and works. Led on motor controller flashes when you hit go, like it should. Under side of the motor board has a burnt spot at the Q2 mosfet. You think just replacing the mosfet would fix it?
As I said in the video always replace the MOSFET and the SCR at the same time.
@dazecars thanks for your reply. That is helpful. What about the burnt spot on the board? I posted a video of it.
I would check for continuity from that middle terminal to another solder spot on the same trace.
Tradmill was initially acting as you said (power but motor goes to high then cuts out), so I replaced both parts. Everything is pluged back where its supposed to. I plug in the treadmill, flip the red switch and it trips the breaker at the house panel.
Any ideas?? Time for a new treadmill maybe. The wife will be happy... she likes spending the moolaa.
Btw... thanks for doing vids like this! I love it when I can actually fix something:)
I do not have any other options on the board. have you tested the motor to make sure it is not the problem.
happy to do it, sorry your repair was not more successful
Is there a better control board to use in these, instead of fixing the mc2100?
Not really
Well done and I can use this when something goes awry. Thanks!
glad I could help
Very good video, lots of helpful info. Thanks Day.
My pleasure!
I now have a 2100 and rev c here to repair and the scr that is damaged is the s8025l and the power transistor is an IGBT g4pc40k
I am not sure what you are asking
hello, thanks for the information you give with this video. I would like to ask you how can I start the engine directly from the board to test on the bench?
I do a bench test in this video ruclips.net/video/RikeVYxITUQ/видео.html
hope you can help me out i replace MOSFET and SCR when i plut in the power with out the controler in the motor stat spen to the max speed
Its usually those two components that cause that symptom. I do not have any other fixes for that.
@@dazecars thank you
your welcome, wish I could have been of more help.
Thanks for all the great info on treadmill controlling, have studied most of your videos and I am curious about a JC22-001 Johnson fitness board and wonder if you have any experience with them or knowledge about using them?
no I do not have a hack for that one
I want to consult with you about something: I am having difficulty removing the board from the heat sink. I have already removed the hot glue stuff (as much as possible), then I also removed the bolts that are holding 4 heat sink components to the heat sink, and I removed the grounding strap from the body of the heat sink. And yet after that, I can not move the board even a tiny bit at all. Is there anything to alleviate the removal procedure somehow? Thanks.
Some times they get cocked in the slider groove. Could also be a tight fit. a small amount of pressure between the aluminum rails may be all you need to get it out.
Trying to do that for the last 15-30 min, no success so far. Was even using a small needle to get to the slider groove somehow to remove the remnants of the hot glue. I can even see that the board has started moving in vertical direction, but so far not in the direction that I need it. I'll keep on trying though.
I hope you are able to get it out
I finally managed to get it out after 2 days of trying. And I did it in the direction (can you imagine?) opposite to yours in your video. I understand that the slider grooves are there up to the very edges from both sides: left and right. But no matter how hard I tried to get it out from the right side of the heat sink (by pushing the controller from the left or pulling it from the right), I could not do it. Then, there was approximately 1" from the left side of the heat sink and the left side of the controller, whereas on the right side --> both of them (controller and heat sink) were on the same level. And then it hit me: why don't I try to push it in from the right side?
And I did it with my two big fingers from the right side, while I was holding the heat sink with the rest. And it worked: even that slightest push -- moved the controller immediately half way through, the rest was easy... I hope this info might help someone someday... Good Luck!
I have removed them from either direction so I would guess there was a barb or something holding your up in one direction however I will add this info to my knowledge base in case someone else has a similar problem.
Hello, my motor would start in fuul speed then stop, so i replaced the IRFP250N then it satrted to work normally but the moment you walk on treadmill, very weak power, then samething happened again, so i waited the S4025L ti come in and changed both this time samething works fine but dramatically LOSS OF POWER, what can cause it?
Power is directly related to amps so something is limiting current flow but I am not sure what. My expertise is in using these types of boards outside the treadmill so I only have limited knowledge on repairs.
@dazecars Makes sense. Thank you for replying.
not a problem
Excellent video! Questions: Do you know where I might obtain a schematic diagram of the MC-2100? 2) Does this also output 12VDC to power the treadmill display, etc? My daughter's treadmill's display does not power up but the LED light on the MC-2100 is solid red. Any help in pointing me would be greatly appreciated!!! Thank you!
I do not have schematic, but If you look at the large connector on the MC2100 the 12V output is labeled. That is what provides power to the display and you should be able to test it with a meter. Makes sense that the LED on the board is solid red because it is not getting the required PWM signal from the control panel. Let me know if I can be of any further assistance.
@@dazecars enter email and I will send it to you
could you contact me through my website (listed in my video) not wanting to post my email address and increase spam.
@@dazecars Will do!
got it will look at it and respond
What can be the culprit if controller board is getting power but the console is not turning on for a proform 800i?
hard to say. The console gets its' power from the MC2100 so it could be an issue on the board, a bad connection or the console itself has failed. The MC2100 is labeled at the console connecter and the voltage outputs are clearly marked. Using a meter to test them will let you know if the MC2100 is producing power.
Thanks so much for this information. I have two of these controllers I am using on various machines and am sure one of these days this will be very helpful. I also have a TW-110D controller out of a Nordic Track treadmill and am having trouble finding any information on the pins to connect a PMW controller. If you have any suggestions on how to go about identifying the correct pins I would appreciate it very much. Thanks
Glad this video was helpful. Sorry but I do not have a hack for the TW-110D controller.
My treadmill is a pro fitness one if that mosfet goes would there be no power anywhere not even above. Thanks in advance
That sounds like maybe the onboard or auxiliary transformer is bad/unplugged OR you don't have a connection across the circuit breaker terminals.
I've got this controller on my treadmill. Here is the behavior I've observed:
1. System/display originally struggled to turn on/boot. It would flash on, but then just stay off.
2. After leaving unplugged for awhile I plugged the treadmill back in. The System/screen booted per usual (LED on board is lit)
3. Deck height controller works as intended
4. Trying to initiate the track on the treadmill results in the LED flashing (PWM appears to being sent)
5. Treadmill starts to move, but doesn't gain more than a minimal speed, nor have any torque/'power' (you can almost stop it by stepping on the deck)
6. Adjusting the desired speed (even to maximum), results in the speed slightly increasing, but after a few moments reduces back down to a slow crawl. (LED during this time has a much slower flashing cadence, as I assume it's trying to provide longer pulses to the motor)
I observe no noticable damage to the capacitors or any obvious signs of failure of the mosfets. However, perhaps they are just in a super weakened state? Might it be worth replacing them for the heck of it?
I honestly don't know. I am not a treadmill repair expert. My only guess is that something is not right with the control board console. You could test the 2100 and motor with a PWM to know for sure.
Great video! I wish i saw this before i blew up two mosfets! lol. Luckilly the pack has 3 left and i can pick up some of those SCRs. It is fairly easy to replace im just hoping i didnt damage the cunducting strip on the board when the mosfet exploded.
You mentioned a differnt type of board is there a good swap for treadmill? I can run quite a bit lol.
hopefully replacing the SCR as well fixes your problem. Works about 3/4 of the time. I don't have a good swap for a treadmill as a treadmill needs its specific controls and board for adequate safety features. The power supply I mentioned is for those using a treadmill motor in something other than a treadmill.
I have a similar fault, the LED never flashes when the engine starts and the engine turns off when it starts, the power mosfet burns out, what can I do? or what should I check?
As I said in the video, often times the SCR being stuck will burn up the MOSFET and that it why I recomend replacing both however it doesn't always work. I have fixed several but had one that replacing both components didn't fix the issue.
Yeh, do you experience error 26..in precor m9.27?
What parts exactly deffective..thanks for sharing of information.
No clue. I don’t do treadmill repair. I simply use the parts for other projects so I can do basic troubleshooting but don’t know all the errors.
The motor or the speed sensor is going bad. There also maybe to much amp draw because the walking deck or walking belt is worn. Get your multimeter and test the amp draw or should be higher than 3amps without a load with a load 4-6 amps is good.
Depending on the weight of the user.
Check your speed sensor
Check the brushes in the motor on each
side make sure there atleast a inch any deep curvature will mean they are bad and no longer making contact to the commentator.
Speed sensor signal short in the wire.
I’m a treadmill repair tech lmk if you need help
Thanks for answering that I appreciate it.
@@dazecars no prob
👍
on the board you show with small transformer built onto the board, have googled the numbers on the transformer but have had no luch
any help please.
its just a class 2 transformer. 120V in 16 volts out. A lot of these boards use a larger one that is mounted outside the board and simple connects to the board.
Kinda got a million questions.
One is a pwm a pwm meaning cheap or nah? And what pin does the blue wire go to from pwm?
I'll leave it there. Thank you for some details I didn't know
I like the knob type PWM that I have linked in the description. Slightly better quality and still affordable. As to wiring this video will answer those questions ruclips.net/video/jLqcvYD_Mnk/видео.html
@@dazecars would this set up be more less the same through every board with this style? Given different hertz and plugs. I'm assuming the pwm module is in sense the ucb of the tm and turning the knob is just the speed up/down buttons
Not quite sure I completely understand you question so if I don't quite answer it please ask again. The PWM at 20 Hz works on all MC2100s regardless of board revision and it also works on the MC1650LS. Many other modern treadmill boards also use a PWM signal to trigger their motor control board but I don't know the wiring or the initial Hz. That is why I don't have a hack for every possible treadmill board. As far as the way the speed control works the MC2100 is using the pulses from the signal generator to trigger the on off action of the MOSFET which in turn controls the power output of the board. The knob on the signal generator is simply to adjust the duty cycle in the Hz range. I hope that answers your question, if not let me know.
Very nice sir！ I feel the love to the community!
glad I could help
Hi there, first of all thank you so much for the video, it really clarifies pretty much everything you need to know about this board. I have a treadmill that will no start, I have power but the motor doesn't run. Since the LED on the board is on I assumed it could be a motor problem. I opened it, checked the resistance bar to bar, and 180º and it seems ok, can it be a board problem? Thank you very much.
yes an LED that comes on and stays on and never starts flashing is a board issue but I do not have a fix for you.
@@dazecars Thank you very much. That's helpful enough 😁
my pleasure
My treadmill would start up fully open then stop. I replaced the moseft and it started working like it should but the motor now has no torque. The motor has good brushes and good magnetic so it seems good but doesnt seem to be getting the correct voltage. Any ideas? Or is the board bad
First and foremost volts do not affect torque except at the lowest speeds. Torque is a function of amps and if you are experiences reduced torque than there is something limiting amp flow. I would start by replacing the other component that I recommend replacing at the same time as the MOSFET. Also what is the torque rating of the motor, could be a smaller cheaper motor that doesn't have much torque to begin with.
Can I use a triac to replace the scr on my mc-2000 board
I don't know
I replaced both the IRFP250 and the S4025L (the original SCR was S9010). The minute I pressed START on treadmill, the S4025L literally POPPED/cracked in half. I have a few more S4025L and considering replacing 1 more time to rule out a faulty thyristor. Anyone else have any thoughts?
I have the MC-2100 board Rev B.
Thanks in advance.
one more time will likely result in the same issue. I do not have a solution for you. typically its a combination of the MOSFET and SCR but being that you replaced them both I do not know what is causing your issue.
You are the man!
Thanks
I have a mc2100lts 30 ver . Always burnt resistor R22. Could you tell me what the problem is?
I honestly don’t know if have not experienced that resistor failure.
I wasn't hoping to find anything about this controler and there you are with this amazing video. I'm fixing MC2100ELS-18W the mosfet is schorted but also the IC next to it is blown up it's in SOP-8 package i guess it's some sort of mosfet driver byt I don't know it's specs because markinks are blown. If you cold write me what are the numbers on this part i will be really thankful (it's a black smd camponent closest to mosfet with 8 legs on a version of the controller with small ferrite core transformer)
just to make sure I get the number for the correct component can you email me through my website and send me a pic of the component in question?
@@dazecars I send it to your Gmail
@@dazecars I send i to your mail
@@dazecars I have send it to your mail
@@dazecars I send it
My treadmill is getting 5 blinks Red, what is the problem? The unit is not receiving the speed. Everything else works.
5 blinks means that the controller cannot resolve PWM signal from the console so there is likely something wrong with the control pannel
Mine just made a popping sound then smoke when I plugged it in and turned it on any ideas?
It’s whatever component popped. You can usually see physical damage. Like i said in the video if it’s the MOSFET or SCR replace both at the same time.
@@dazecars yeah c28 is gone looks like it blew, Thank you
My pleasure
Hi there. I got an MC2100LTS-30 working fine except it won't incline down (only up). After testing everything else, I replaced the MCB and the problem was fixed. So, now that I know everything else is fine and the old controller is bad, I'm trying to fix it following your recommendations. Although I believe these won't affect the incline (only the belt motor), I replaced both the MOSFET and the SCR, but it still won't incline down. Any suggestions? Have you tried changing the safety capacitors (MPX-X2, 275V, 0.1k) or any other components to fix this "no incline down" problem?
The MC2100 board has nothing to do with the incline motor. An incline motor is AC and when power is applied one way it goes one direction and when applied the other way it goes the other direction. Some incline motors have a stop switch inside the incline motor and if that switch is bad that would explain why it's only going one direction. You could also have a bad connection. This video may help but there are lots of different incline motor configurations so it may or may not apply. ruclips.net/video/ce9I55OeDWY/видео.html
@@dazecarsThanks for your reply. I agree with all you've said, but as I mentioned in my original message, I already replaced the controller board (MCB) and everything worked perfectly, including the incline motor moving up & down. The old MCB seems to be the problem, since it's sending AC voltage through just one of the wires on the 3-wire incline harness. I confirmed that by inserting the incline connector the other way around, and then it inclines down when I press the incline up button, but it does not move when I press the incline down. Therefore, the problem is not in the incline motor. That's what I'm trying to diagnose... therefore my previous question "Have you tried changing the safety (yellow) capacitors (MPX-X2, 275V, 0.1k) or any other components to fix this "no incline down" problem?"... Why isn't AC voltage coming out of one of the incline connector pins? Any clues?
I honestly don't know. I am not a treadmill repair expert just a guy with some basic electronics knowledge and some experience using treadmill parts in other projects. I was just trying to trouble shoot your issue as best as I could and do not have any other ideas.
@@dazecars Thanks for you reply. Your video was very educational, and it motivated me to continue my quest for answers. Keep it up!
glad I could help if only a little
Pls I need the scr(Q3 and Q2) number on a Mc2000es
mc2000 or mc2100?
@@dazecarsmc2000
S4020L is the part number on q2 and q3 on my board
@@dazecars thank you
Yep, sorry it took me a few days.
Interesting stuff!
Really? Are you sure you were watching the same video I was? 😂😂😂
I was looking for Motorcraft 2150E content...this was close, but no e-cigarette. 🥝✔️
this is sooooo not a carburetor 😂😂
Thanks
My pleasure
Hi, thanks for a great video. My Proform 415 treadmill with the 2100 Rev B PCB ran great for 12 years, but then it would run for a second and pop the "arc fault" breaker that is in the house panel for my bedroom. I tested the motor with a 12v DC battery and it ran without problems. I replaced the IRFP 250N Mosfet, the old one tested bad. And I connected the treadmill to a non "arc fault" outlet. Now, the light stays solid on the board, the control panel on the treadmill works and I can use the incline motor up and down no problem. But when I go to start the treadmill, it runs for a second or two, then pops the breaker on the front of the treadmill, but not the house panel breaker. And the control panel stays on and the red light on the CB stays on, but a "burning electrical smell" came from the motor. Not sure what to do next, I could take the motor apart I suppose. I'm leery of getting a new motor, cause it might fry. I don't mind puttering around with it, replacing chips and caps but I would just get a new treadmill if I have to spend a couple hundred dollars to get it going again, because it is old. Any ideas?
PS the caps look good, not swollen or leaking. The board in general looks pristine.
if the motor is running no problem on 12V I would say the motor is not the issue. If the motor was the issue it would not work in any configuration. Did you replace the SCR chip like I suggest in my video when you replaced the MOSFET? As I said those two chips work in tandem, one on the AC side and one on the DC side and if either one is "stuck" shunting full voltage that could cause a surge to the motor which would cause some burning smell from the brushes and the breaker to pop.
@@dazecars I did not replace that SCR chip, they take a few weeks to get delivered. But I will order one (some) and wait for it. Replacing the chips is not hard or expensive. I have several of the MOSFET chips already. Thank you for getting back to me, I was going to take the motor apart but I will wait and try the SCR chip.
like I said it shouldn't be the motor at all based on the info you provided.
@@dazecars Hi Dazecars, I got the SCR chip and installed it and also replaced the MOSFET since I had several and the board was out while I was at it. I plugged in the treadmill, the console was working and the red light was solid. When I pressed the start at 2mph button the motor ran for like a half second and there was a big POP and flash. No electrical smell though. The red light went out, but the console stayed on. and the incline no longer works. Where the treadmill is like 14 years old, I think I will just get a new one or an elliptical machine. But I appreciate the help, and found replacing the components somehow relaxing. Thank you.
👍👍😎👍👍
👍
I have MC2100ELS-18W. The LED is blinking 8 times then pause. What could be the problem?
I dopn't know
If anyone needs a schematic, send me an email and I'll send it to you.
would you be willing to contact me through me website? I am trying to avoid spam so I really don't want to post my email address here.
Of course yes, you just have to say how@@dazecars
"contact DazeCars" is in the "about/contact" section of the menu on www.dazecars.com Sorry for the hassle like I said before just trying to eliminate spam.
Can't thank you enough!
my pleasure
good morning
I have a problem with this MC2100 board and the LED has a solid light, I have already connected the PWM to the HD2 plug, the PWM is blind to pin 13 of the micro, the pulse width varies as I change it, but not even to pin 8 of the micro to open the voltage on the SCR Not even 12 has any modulated signal.
is there any tip?
Did you set the signal generator to the correct Hz?