A statement I received from Tamron "When performing focus shift adjustments on Tamron lenses can be very time consuming, the other thing that happens is if you input a too high a number to bring a distance correct it can influence the focus curve and alter the other results this is one reason why you have to go back and forth and check. Prime lenses are a lot easier to adjust but zooms more difficult and time consuming."
Hi Marco, One thing I am having problems is Infinity. I am using Datacolor Spyder Lenscal and my set up is the similar to yours. I am using just over 5 mtrs as the measurement for Infinity for the 24-70 G2, however at 24mm I am finding reading the Datacolor Spyder Lenscal a little difficult. How did you do Infinity? I just have Infinity left to do on the 24-70mm G2 and infinity on the 15-30mm G2. My camera is a Nikon D850 I have been using ISO64, but at 24mm I have had to raise the ISO to get a faster speed. I am considering do the calibration outside but not in direct sunlight but unfortunately wet weather at the moment. Any suggestions will be very much appreciated
I have tamrin 24-70 G2 2.8 who i just purchased. I noted that at 2.8 picture was Fuzzy but at next step (3.5 to onward totally perfect) I am worried so pls help how i take perfect picture at 2.8 Note: Lens small glass who attach with body are replaced
Assuming your focus was point at the same place in the picture you find it out of focuse, it's fairly possible the lens need ajustment or is defective or you were just too closed to the subject for the focus to be perfect.. Check the focus ranage.. I don't know what you mean by small glass (an adapter ?)
@@islamabadphotos3873 If the only thing you changed is the glass (I'm still thinking it is called a lens mount adapter) then you should change it again.. unless it has a firmware update.. some do..
Sir expect 2.8 lens working fine at all focal lengths even at 3.5 I will be greatfull to you if you guide me cause camera technician not agree for change of glass.they told me that lens mount glass is not faulted or honestly i cant effort more amount to pay another technician
I must say you are better than a native English speaker in terms of bringing the message home in a shorter space of time with excellent video and equipment! My question is, can these adjustment values be input into the camera body itself and get it to remember it for that lens? Of course, as it is not a lens fix I suppose the lens will not be perfect on another body .. is that right?!
Yes, some bodies have lenses micro adjustments, specially professional cams. But for cheaper models which many are crop-sensors, those adjustments are missing. That's where the Tap-in console comes handy !
Thanks for the good words.. With some lens, we need to explore the whole range and F-stops to find the sweet spot.. There is always something the lens is better at. If not, sell it.. That's what I think.. ;)
THank you for posting! I am going to try to calibrate my 70-200 g2 . But I have a question. I didn't understand (or I dont want it to be true) what you said that if you calibrate the focus for 24 mm, when you calibrate the 35 mm then the 24 could go off, again. How do I get consistant calibration throughtout the whole zoom range? ThANKS in advance.
You may need to do all the ranges a few times. I think we can see it as a rope of adjustments if you pull on a part it will make the other part move... At least that was the impression I got when doing it...
I have the 15-30mm, 24-70mm, and 70-200mm G2 for my Nikon Z6. My 15-30mm is underexposing in 1/3 stops. Most often 1.66 stops. It's unusable underexposing so much and I have no idea why.
@@mahfeww grey market, i assume? I'm in the same boat w/ my 60mm .. mine overexposes and AF in live view on my EOS 90D doesn't work properly, but I'm SOL because it's grey market .. oh well
Each lens has it's own distance depending on the focal lenght.. In the tap-in consol you will see at which distance to test it. if no number apear, start at double the prior distance and move away if you are not at infinity.. I think with the 24-70mm I was at about 12feet, but it's more than a year ago.. ;)
@@MarcoPrimeau I tried setting the long distance at 5, 4, and 3 meters. I settled on 3 meters, but the length of the scale for the wide depth of field (especially at 24mm FL) is so small that it is hard to judge the differences in the images at different settings. Maybe I will try to rig up a yard stick or meter scale at a 45 degree angle. That should be long enough.
Для рускоговорящих. ТАК НЕЛЬЗЯ настраивать фокус!!! Я с этого тоже начинал - по шкале...потом шёл на съёмку людей и офигевал, как оно мажет. У меня тамрон 24-70 g2 с консолью на кенон. Удалось почти идеально настроить (почему почти - мать его canon 5d mark ii с его автофокусом). Если снимаете людей - настраивайте фокус на людях. Берём человека, лучше девушку (на мужиках фокусируется лучше, наверное из-за морщин). Свет должен быть типа тень от солнца (у меня длинный балкон и я ждал, пока солнце зайдёт за высотку.). Берём 24мм: настраиваем на расстоянии 38см - делаем 3 кадра (с внутренней поправкой в камере +5 0 -5). Смотрим, где резче кадр (кстати поставьте съёмку в jpeg и резкость +7...так вы увидите на экранчике камеры минимальные изменения в резкости). Например, кадр резче на -5. Снимаем ещё два кадра на -5 и -10. Смотрим, где резче. Вам понравился кадр в -5. Теперь снимаем вертикально в -5 0 +5. -5 резче? Вносим поправку консолью. Так же снимаем с 1 метра и с бесконечности (смотрим на шкалу объектива). Проделываем такую настройку для всех фокусных и расстояний. Таким образом я настроил объектив и с уверенностью могу сказать, что на 2,8 этот тамрон очень мало отличается от фикса 50 1,4 на дырке 1,8. Хотите ещё точнее настроить резкость? Нужно в камере сервисной программой настраивать сенсора в камере. Например на центральном датчике есть два сенсора с чувствительностью 2,8 и 5,6. На камерах уровня 5д они не дружат и их нужно сводить, так как сработать может один или другой (камера решает сама). К сожалению это долго. Ровно 4 часа в сервисном центре мы настраивали со знакомым эти сенсора и потратили 446 кадров на это.
Sorry I don't read russian language.. But if I can get something out of google translate, you seem to make your adjustments in camera.. This tool is better suited for those who can't. many camera body don't have that micro adjustment.. So that's why Tamron made the tap-in console
Finally someone with a thicker French-Canadian accent than me...
:)
there is an accent but i don't think it is "thick".
A statement I received from Tamron "When performing focus shift adjustments on Tamron lenses can be very time consuming, the other thing that happens is if you input a too high a number to bring a distance correct it can influence the focus curve and alter the other results this is one reason why you have to go back and forth and check. Prime lenses are a lot easier to adjust but zooms more difficult and time consuming."
Well, that's sums up my experience ! Thanks ! Nonetheless, I prefer putting the time in to avoid out of focus pictures.. ;)
Hi Marco,
One thing I am having problems is Infinity. I am using Datacolor Spyder Lenscal and my set up is the similar to yours. I am using just over 5 mtrs as the measurement for Infinity for the 24-70 G2, however at 24mm I am finding reading the Datacolor Spyder Lenscal a little difficult.
How did you do Infinity?
I just have Infinity left to do on the 24-70mm G2 and infinity on the 15-30mm G2. My camera is a Nikon D850 I have been using ISO64, but at 24mm I have had to raise the ISO to get a faster speed. I am considering do the calibration outside but not in direct sunlight but unfortunately wet weather at the moment.
Any suggestions will be very much appreciated
I have tamrin 24-70 G2 2.8 who i just purchased. I noted that at 2.8 picture was Fuzzy but at next step (3.5 to onward totally perfect)
I am worried so pls help how i take perfect picture at 2.8
Note:
Lens small glass who attach with body are replaced
Assuming your focus was point at the same place in the picture you find it out of focuse, it's fairly possible the lens need ajustment or is defective or you were just too closed to the subject for the focus to be perfect.. Check the focus ranage.. I don't know what you mean by small glass (an adapter ?)
Sir i mean ny lens mount glass was changed.before changed they did work fine but after change glass my picture are FUZZY at 2.8
@@islamabadphotos3873 If the only thing you changed is the glass (I'm still thinking it is called a lens mount adapter) then you should change it again.. unless it has a firmware update.. some do..
Sir expect 2.8 lens working fine at all focal lengths even at 3.5
I will be greatfull to you if you guide me cause camera technician not agree for change of glass.they told me that lens mount glass is not faulted or honestly i cant effort more amount to pay another technician
I must say you are better than a native English speaker in terms of bringing the message home in a shorter space of time with excellent video and equipment! My question is, can these adjustment values be input into the camera body itself and get it to remember it for that lens? Of course, as it is not a lens fix I suppose the lens will not be perfect on another body .. is that right?!
Yes, some bodies have lenses micro adjustments, specially professional cams. But for cheaper models which many are crop-sensors, those adjustments are missing. That's where the Tap-in console comes handy !
Thanks for this Video, answered a few questions I was having.
Your English is great buddy.
I have the 70-300 VC, but it is very soft.
Thanks for the good words.. With some lens, we need to explore the whole range and F-stops to find the sweet spot.. There is always something the lens is better at. If not, sell it.. That's what I think.. ;)
THank you for posting! I am going to try to calibrate my 70-200 g2 . But I have a question. I didn't understand (or I dont want it to be true) what you said that if you calibrate the focus for 24 mm, when you calibrate the 35 mm then the 24 could go off, again. How do I get consistant calibration throughtout the whole zoom range? ThANKS in advance.
You may need to do all the ranges a few times. I think we can see it as a rope of adjustments if you pull on a part it will make the other part move... At least that was the impression I got when doing it...
Pain in the ass but the final shots look awesome! Eyes are in tremendous focus! Need a lot of patience and trial and errors! haha...
I have the 15-30mm, 24-70mm, and 70-200mm G2 for my Nikon Z6. My 15-30mm is underexposing in 1/3 stops. Most often 1.66 stops. It's unusable underexposing so much and I have no idea why.
You should contact the support, the tap-in console only deals with focus adjustment not exposer...
@@MarcoPrimeau I did and since I bought used on eBay they said they wouldn't help
@@mahfeww Oh that's sad.. they didn't even propose to charge for evaluation and fixing ?? :(
@@mahfeww grey market, i assume? I'm in the same boat w/ my 60mm .. mine overexposes and AF in live view on my EOS 90D doesn't work properly, but I'm SOL because it's grey market .. oh well
How you calibrate 70-200 on 5m distance? It is bearly visible on 70mm
You need to take pictures at the higher resolution possible and go pixel peep. If it seems in focus, then no need to calibrate..
Well done, thanks mate!
What distance do you set your camera up for the infinity distance calibration?
Each lens has it's own distance depending on the focal lenght.. In the tap-in consol you will see at which distance to test it. if no number apear, start at double the prior distance and move away if you are not at infinity.. I think with the 24-70mm I was at about 12feet, but it's more than a year ago.. ;)
@@MarcoPrimeau I tried setting the long distance at 5, 4, and 3 meters. I settled on 3 meters, but the length of the scale for the wide depth of field (especially at 24mm FL) is so small that it is hard to judge the differences in the images at different settings. Maybe I will try to rig up a yard stick or meter scale at a 45 degree angle. That should be long enough.
Really useful video,thanks!
Thnanks !
Для рускоговорящих. ТАК НЕЛЬЗЯ настраивать фокус!!! Я с этого тоже начинал - по шкале...потом шёл на съёмку людей и офигевал, как оно мажет. У меня тамрон 24-70 g2 с консолью на кенон. Удалось почти идеально настроить (почему почти - мать его canon 5d mark ii с его автофокусом). Если снимаете людей - настраивайте фокус на людях. Берём человека, лучше девушку (на мужиках фокусируется лучше, наверное из-за морщин). Свет должен быть типа тень от солнца (у меня длинный балкон и я ждал, пока солнце зайдёт за высотку.). Берём 24мм: настраиваем на расстоянии 38см - делаем 3 кадра (с внутренней поправкой в камере +5 0 -5). Смотрим, где резче кадр (кстати поставьте съёмку в jpeg и резкость +7...так вы увидите на экранчике камеры минимальные изменения в резкости). Например, кадр резче на -5. Снимаем ещё два кадра на -5 и -10. Смотрим, где резче. Вам понравился кадр в -5. Теперь снимаем вертикально в -5 0 +5. -5 резче? Вносим поправку консолью. Так же снимаем с 1 метра и с бесконечности (смотрим на шкалу объектива). Проделываем такую настройку для всех фокусных и расстояний. Таким образом я настроил объектив и с уверенностью могу сказать, что на 2,8 этот тамрон очень мало отличается от фикса 50 1,4 на дырке 1,8. Хотите ещё точнее настроить резкость? Нужно в камере сервисной программой настраивать сенсора в камере. Например на центральном датчике есть два сенсора с чувствительностью 2,8 и 5,6. На камерах уровня 5д они не дружат и их нужно сводить, так как сработать может один или другой (камера решает сама). К сожалению это долго. Ровно 4 часа в сервисном центре мы настраивали со знакомым эти сенсора и потратили 446 кадров на это.
Sorry I don't read russian language.. But if I can get something out of google translate, you seem to make your adjustments in camera.. This tool is better suited for those who can't. many camera body don't have that micro adjustment.. So that's why Tamron made the tap-in console