Nice progress both on the machine, and on your video work. How straight is your straight edge? After you dialed in and tightened the first rail, did you flip the straight edge and repeat the dial gauge run along the rail to see if there might be error in the straight edge? Although chasing sub thou deviations gets to be a bear. That lathe will have a much straighter bed then my worn Boley, and may even cut straighter than my Schaublin, with it's 11µm wear in the bed. Do you have a plan for the head stock bearing seal? It is essential to seal that spindle nose end of the bearing from grit and swarf. Typically this is a labyrinth seal. It might be best to consider the current spindle set up as a temporary tool, and protect it with something like plastic and bath sealant, and as soon as you have it running, use it to turn a labyrinth back plate which you epoxy to the head, and also let the lathe turn it's own final spindle. I would recommend Camlock, because it is cool :), and because there is wide variety of chucks etc for that in north america. If you drop me a line (email on my channel "about" page, I can send you the drawing of the Schaublin labrinth seal, and also the spec for the camlock nose.
Thanks you! Actually that’s really good to hear, if its better for me to add voice over afterwards, thats a lot easier for me to do. My straightedge should be straight to I believe .00087in, although I don’t think I still have the card it came with. Unfortunately my other limiting factor here is that I only have a .001in graduation indicator, I may get a tenths indicator soon though. Actually the straightedge is an issue, I had totally forgotten that its error is now a limit on my precision, I was considering it to be perfect before. So long story short my error is probably close to double what I thought haha, just under .001in instead of about .0005in sadly. Actually I do have some for the seal, but not really a good one. I didn’t add the clips to the video because it was late and I wanted to put it out last night before I went to sleep, but I did make a steel cover for the front bearing. I was thinking, I may be able to 3d print the covers if they just protect from dust? I hear the bearings reach something like 100 degrees when operating, but plastic could take that heat. Im definitely planning for the lathe to at least turn down the end of the spindle and turn the backplate to make sure its concentric and all, is there any reason to have the lathe turn a whole new part for the spindle, instead of just the end of the current one to fit the back plate? Also I need to do a ton more research on chucks but cam lock does seem really cool hahahaha. I will definitely shoot you an email! Thanks a ton for all these resources its been a huge help
Maybe the problem is just that Im on mobile, but I don’t see an email on your channel page. My email is robert.steinwandel@gmail.com if you’d be down to send the Labyrinth seal drawing!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Getting started with the lathe turning some sort of flange which you can bolt chucks to will be a good start, but a tapered nose makes mounting and demounting with consistent run out easier, and camlock makes it much faster. Once you get the lathe running, and us it to make a better spindle, you can also put threads behind the bearings, and us a nut to set the preload, with the issue of uneven preload on the inner races which you might get with that current system. The proof will be when you turn a long test bar. I forgot that horizontal bed errors go into diameter at 2x error, so my 11µm bed error could be 2/100's over the the length. I assume it will be a fair bit less, as the long saddle averages out some of the error.
Thats a great point honestly. My current spindle is basically the best I can do with my current tools, Im sure it would be much better to use a “real” spindle design in the long run lol. Actually in the next vid Im planning to go through my plan to dial in the accuracy of my machine, nothing crazy about the process just turn a long rigid bar and check diameter with a micrometer, but I have some ideas on how to fine tune the accuracy that Im still working on. Im really interested to see what results you get when you have a chance to test it!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 I think that is a really good plan, make the spindle simple and doable with what you have now, and then upgrade it. It would be easy to kill a problem like that with analysis paralysis if you try to do "perfect solutions" not in the current scope of your tool access. By the way, at the start of the video the first few seconds are critical to hook viewers. The start of this one was really good, but then from 00:30 to 00:48 nothing happens, and you will lose the audience. Chop bits like that.
If you have the footage, please post the process of doing the epoxy granite casting, especially, the spindle block. Really curious, how u managed to get parallel sides properly... Can be raw, no need to edit much. Thanks
Looks good though you might want to consider making a fine thread on the spindle and lock washer (or retaining ring) instead of those pointed set screws. They will certainly hold but not over time as the load is imposed on them.
Yes absolutely. This won’t really be a final spindle, it’s more of just something that will work well enough to turn myself a better one later. Other than a few limited instances I don’t normally have any access to a lathe, and I have limited access to a tiny mini-mill, so to make a new spindle I basically need something to start with lol
Honestly I bought the bearings about a year ago so I can’t remember their precision class. To my knowledge, and please correct me if I’m wrong, even the low tolerance bearings only have like .0001-.0002in runout anyways. I really don’t need anything much better than that to be honest, I don’t expect to ever need to hit sub-tenth tolerances or anything
@@robertsteinwandel6658 no the standard/unknown precision class can reach 0.01~0.02mm run out practically and on the paper also, I found difficulties finding a high precision class for these tapered bearings, even skf does not make except the standard class, they are usually made for cars were no greater precision is needed, your ways might be more precise than the rounding of ur turned parts, before making more work on that spindle try to check on its runout, it could be challenging to know unless you turn something and before getting it out of the chuck the dial can tell you
@@robertsteinwandel6658 yup btw almost always the precision class is lasered on the the bearings, what is the brand? also how did u make sure that both cones are exactly facing each others with no axial or radial shifting?
@@GraphicManInnovations I truly don’t remember the brand, it was too long ago unfortunately. I got them from bearings direct .com. The spindle is certainly a work in progress as I had limited tools to make it. I did have a lathe to cut out a compression fit opening in both sides of a tube, and the bearing outer races are slid into that and reference against a lip cut on the lathe. That compression fit has quite a bit of force, I wonder if it could squeeze the outer races into being slightly more circular? Not a very scientific thought but maybe lol?
Very cool project. A quick tip that might save you some time. Use your tap in your little drill jig connected to the cordless drill to start all the threads (first 3-4 turns) and you know they will be 99.9% straight and way quicker to start.
Thats a cool idea! Especially with 2 taps so I don’t have to swap them in and out of my drill jig haha Honestly at some point I might make a power tapping machine, that seems like a cool project!
Thanks! There was someone else on youtube with a somewhat similar idea that I just modified but I can’t remember their channel to give them credit unfortunately The current plan is to use this spindle for the initial setup and calibration of the lathe, and at a later date use it to turn a new spindle thats a little simpler to pretension and possibly uses a camlock system to attach the chuck which would be cool But yeah I was really pleased that the design seems to work well and basically just needed a drill and a tap and some set screws to get it working
So I totally agree with you, but unfortunately thats not really an option for me- Im working in a garage that other people need to park in, so Im moving this thing fairly often. When it has a permanent spot I have a section of 1/4in wall 10in square tube Ill make a base from, and then Ill fill the tube with sand for the added weight (easier than mixing up so much more epoxy granite) But yeah, once I bolt it to the base Im sure whatever tensions the base puts on the lathe will throw it off a bit and Ill have to recalibrate, such is life I guess hahaha
Id be really interested to see your current setup! And I absolutely agree, Rotarysmp suggested a labyrinth seal in a comment which was a great idea, Im going to try to 3d print one for the next video I believe, Ill see how that goes hahaha
@@robertsteinwandel6658 I haven't had time to mess with it in months. Life just doesn't allow me to work on it right now I started six years ago and built some mills, lathes, and other things to start a small business. It is a very expensive hobby that I would like to go back to.
Hahaha a lot has happened in the meantime, I do plan to get back to the project in earnest though and get it finished. I’ve moved twice since the last video among other things which put a hefty delay on things lol
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Nice progress both on the machine, and on your video work.
How straight is your straight edge? After you dialed in and tightened the first rail, did you flip the straight edge and repeat the dial gauge run along the rail to see if there might be error in the straight edge? Although chasing sub thou deviations gets to be a bear.
That lathe will have a much straighter bed then my worn Boley, and may even cut straighter than my Schaublin, with it's 11µm wear in the bed.
Do you have a plan for the head stock bearing seal? It is essential to seal that spindle nose end of the bearing from grit and swarf. Typically this is a labyrinth seal. It might be best to consider the current spindle set up as a temporary tool, and protect it with something like plastic and bath sealant, and as soon as you have it running, use it to turn a labyrinth back plate which you epoxy to the head, and also let the lathe turn it's own final spindle. I would recommend Camlock, because it is cool :), and because there is wide variety of chucks etc for that in north america.
If you drop me a line (email on my channel "about" page, I can send you the drawing of the Schaublin labrinth seal, and also the spec for the camlock nose.
Thanks you! Actually that’s really good to hear, if its better for me to add voice over afterwards, thats a lot easier for me to do.
My straightedge should be straight to I believe .00087in, although I don’t think I still have the card it came with. Unfortunately my other limiting factor here is that I only have a .001in graduation indicator, I may get a tenths indicator soon though. Actually the straightedge is an issue, I had totally forgotten that its error is now a limit on my precision, I was considering it to be perfect before.
So long story short my error is probably close to double what I thought haha, just under .001in instead of about .0005in sadly.
Actually I do have some for the seal, but not really a good one. I didn’t add the clips to the video because it was late and I wanted to put it out last night before I went to sleep, but I did make a steel cover for the front bearing. I was thinking, I may be able to 3d print the covers if they just protect from dust? I hear the bearings reach something like 100 degrees when operating, but plastic could take that heat.
Im definitely planning for the lathe to at least turn down the end of the spindle and turn the backplate to make sure its concentric and all, is there any reason to have the lathe turn a whole new part for the spindle, instead of just the end of the current one to fit the back plate? Also I need to do a ton more research on chucks but cam lock does seem really cool hahahaha.
I will definitely shoot you an email! Thanks a ton for all these resources its been a huge help
Maybe the problem is just that Im on mobile, but I don’t see an email on your channel page. My email is robert.steinwandel@gmail.com if you’d be down to send the Labyrinth seal drawing!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 Getting started with the lathe turning some sort of flange which you can bolt chucks to will be a good start, but a tapered nose makes mounting and demounting with consistent run out easier, and camlock makes it much faster. Once you get the lathe running, and us it to make a better spindle, you can also put threads behind the bearings, and us a nut to set the preload, with the issue of uneven preload on the inner races which you might get with that current system.
The proof will be when you turn a long test bar. I forgot that horizontal bed errors go into diameter at 2x error, so my 11µm bed error could be 2/100's over the the length. I assume it will be a fair bit less, as the long saddle averages out some of the error.
Thats a great point honestly. My current spindle is basically the best I can do with my current tools, Im sure it would be much better to use a “real” spindle design in the long run lol.
Actually in the next vid Im planning to go through my plan to dial in the accuracy of my machine, nothing crazy about the process just turn a long rigid bar and check diameter with a micrometer, but I have some ideas on how to fine tune the accuracy that Im still working on.
Im really interested to see what results you get when you have a chance to test it!
@@robertsteinwandel6658 I think that is a really good plan, make the spindle simple and doable with what you have now, and then upgrade it. It would be easy to kill a problem like that with analysis paralysis if you try to do "perfect solutions" not in the current scope of your tool access.
By the way, at the start of the video the first few seconds are critical to hook viewers. The start of this one was really good, but then from 00:30 to 00:48 nothing happens, and you will lose the audience. Chop bits like that.
If you have the footage, please post the process of doing the epoxy granite casting, especially, the spindle block. Really curious, how u managed to get parallel sides properly... Can be raw, no need to edit much. Thanks
Lol yeah quite a few people have asked about that, Ill be posting it soon just need to find time to put it together
Love the grinder-assisted scraping!
Thanks!
Straight Edge ! Complete ! Now !
Looks good though you might want to consider making a fine thread on the spindle and lock washer (or retaining ring) instead of those pointed set screws. They will certainly hold but not over time as the load is imposed on them.
Yes absolutely. This won’t really be a final spindle, it’s more of just something that will work well enough to turn myself a better one later. Other than a few limited instances I don’t normally have any access to a lathe, and I have limited access to a tiny mini-mill, so to make a new spindle I basically need something to start with lol
@@robertsteinwandel6658 itio5eyyoyhhv
are these 32008?
what precision class ?
did you check for their run out?
Honestly I bought the bearings about a year ago so I can’t remember their precision class. To my knowledge, and please correct me if I’m wrong, even the low tolerance bearings only have like .0001-.0002in runout anyways. I really don’t need anything much better than that to be honest, I don’t expect to ever need to hit sub-tenth tolerances or anything
@@robertsteinwandel6658 no the standard/unknown precision class can reach 0.01~0.02mm run out practically and on the paper also, I found difficulties finding a high precision class for these tapered bearings, even skf does not make except the standard class, they are usually made for cars were no greater precision is needed, your ways might be more precise than the rounding of ur turned parts, before making more work on that spindle try to check on its runout, it could be challenging to know unless you turn something and before getting it out of the chuck the dial can tell you
@@GraphicManInnovations that’s a good idea, I’ll check that, thanks
@@robertsteinwandel6658 yup btw almost always the precision class is lasered on the the bearings, what is the brand? also how did u make sure that both cones are exactly facing each others with no axial or radial shifting?
@@GraphicManInnovations I truly don’t remember the brand, it was too long ago unfortunately. I got them from bearings direct .com. The spindle is certainly a work in progress as I had limited tools to make it. I did have a lathe to cut out a compression fit opening in both sides of a tube, and the bearing outer races are slid into that and reference against a lip cut on the lathe. That compression fit has quite a bit of force, I wonder if it could squeeze the outer races into being slightly more circular? Not a very scientific thought but maybe lol?
Looks like a great project, will follow!
Thank you! It’s been really fun so far :)
Thank you! It’s been really fun so far :)
YOU ! TUBE !! THIEF !!!
YOU !! TUBE !!! THIEF. !!
Very cool project. A quick tip that might save you some time. Use your tap in your little drill jig connected to the cordless drill to start all the threads (first 3-4 turns) and you know they will be 99.9% straight and way quicker to start.
Thats a cool idea! Especially with 2 taps so I don’t have to swap them in and out of my drill jig haha
Honestly at some point I might make a power tapping machine, that seems like a cool project!
What kind of linear rails did you use?
Nice spindle, never seen one that preloads like that. Great idea and easier to make without giant machine
Thanks! There was someone else on youtube with a somewhat similar idea that I just modified but I can’t remember their channel to give them credit unfortunately
The current plan is to use this spindle for the initial setup and calibration of the lathe, and at a later date use it to turn a new spindle thats a little simpler to pretension and possibly uses a camlock system to attach the chuck which would be cool
But yeah I was really pleased that the design seems to work well and basically just needed a drill and a tap and some set screws to get it working
I first saw that trick on the multimachine
It was a CKASSIC ! STOLEN ! IDEA ! FORM other You ! Tube! Shows ! Of the PAST !!
DID TEMPERATURE VARIATIONS CAUSE ANY CRACKS IN THE EPOXY GRANITE?
NO IT DID NOT. WHY THE ALL CAPS THOUGH?
Curious if you have made plans for a base. You may want that in place before spending too much more time chasing the last 1000ths
So I totally agree with you, but unfortunately thats not really an option for me- Im working in a garage that other people need to park in, so Im moving this thing fairly often. When it has a permanent spot I have a section of 1/4in wall 10in square tube Ill make a base from, and then Ill fill the tube with sand for the added weight (easier than mixing up so much more epoxy granite)
But yeah, once I bolt it to the base Im sure whatever tensions the base puts on the lathe will throw it off a bit and Ill have to recalibrate, such is life I guess hahaha
I need seals on my spindle. They are open like yours and the bearings won't last long unless it has protection from grit and chips.
Id be really interested to see your current setup!
And I absolutely agree, Rotarysmp suggested a labyrinth seal in a comment which was a great idea, Im going to try to 3d print one for the next video I believe, Ill see how that goes hahaha
@@robertsteinwandel6658 I haven't had time to mess with it in months. Life just doesn't allow me to work on it right now I started six years ago and built some mills, lathes, and other things to start a small business. It is a very expensive hobby that I would like to go back to.
pete garssia well I hope you have time soon! No worries at all, but yes it is such a fun hobby hahaha
Impressive, especially for a kid. Well done
Im actually 23 but I appreciate it hahaha
@@robertsteinwandel6658Generation ! ZED ! LOADED ! UP ! ALLREADY !
@@robertsteinwandel6658is this Full time or Casual ! ?
I had to subscribe!
Im glad!! Hahaha
You running a tailstock?
I will be, not done yet unfortunately. It would have been a good idea to cast it in EG when I cast the lathe but that’s hindsight I suppose
hand scraping for flatness with a grinder
Yessir, check out video 2-3 I believe
Please continue the project or give it to me for a summer ill do it ahah i am not too far
Hahaha a lot has happened in the meantime, I do plan to get back to the project in earnest though and get it finished.
I’ve moved twice since the last video among other things which put a hefty delay on things lol
Конструкция шпинделя неправильная совсем
Термические расширения и будет вибрация
Я хотел так сделать но потом хорошо подумал и отказался