5 Quick Thickness Planer Hacks - Woodworking Tips and Tricks
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- Опубликовано: 1 окт 2024
- Thickness Planers are one of the big time saver power tools in the workshop but they are very limited in what they can do, but there are some things you can do to make them even more useful, like gang planing, jointing larger boards and even tricks to eliminate snipe in your thickness planer machine to name a few.
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Another trick for figured woods is to dampen the surface of the wood before planing, it tightens up the grain and will minimize chip out
IMPORTANT: Everybody is using the sled jig backwards and I can't unsee it. It's not just him, it's literally everyone on RUclips. Tip: The front end of the jig is the end with the fence on it. If you put it through with the fence on the back, the planer will pull your piece right off the shims and probably off of your sled. Also, please be weary if you're using screws on the fence. You REALLY don't want the planer blades to hit those screws. Not recommended. It will be a negative experience.
ALSO, if it helps anybody, I've found that it REALLY helps to put your fence on so that your piece is more toward the center of the sled. This helps prevent snipe, because both the front and back of the sled are already on the in and outfeeds before the peice ever even hits the blade. Hope this helps!
I see what you mean, but it looks like he'd have to be planing off 1/2" if the blades were going to reach the fence. If you're only taking off 1/16" I don't see how the blades would drop to catch the fence
Unless you are making Chip and Deal furniture. Sorry
Good tips, you forgot the mention the counter top board that you have in your planer. This reduces snipe as well
In regards to the first tip. Why not use two small G clamps to hold the pieces of vertical timber together? One at either end, just make sure the tightening rod is horizontal
if by mistake the wood turns inside than the cutting head will hit the G clamp and it`s a fucked up situation. Or if the wood turns and the g clamp hits the margin the the wood is not advancing anymore
Some good trips there Colin but you forgot to mention the all important grain direction.
I would not consider that a hack. That's more of a "basics of using a planer" deal.
I just bought my very first thickness planer. There is a learning curve to using it. These hacks are so helpful. Thank you very very much Colin. I LOVE your channel
I just bought mine - a jointer / planer combo 10.5 inch .... there is a learning curve to both the jointer and the planer !!!
Oh and I realized it creates a LOT of saw dust !!!!
Run short pieces corner first. Piece is longer that way.
WOW, you just hit tow (maybe three) of the problems I have. I HAVE tried planing the thin part of a board by simply putting it into two other boards and holding it together as it goes in. That works maybe 1/2 the time, and much less is my success with thin boards (of course.) Why it never occurred to me to tape them together the way you showed, well, thanks, this is DEFINITELY a "trick" I'm gonna try. And along with that your "planing jig" is brilliant. And I have some wedges and MDF just sittin' here with YOUR name written ALL over it! Thanks. And the third it seems I figured it out regarding snipe. For no reason I started doing it and it worked darn well, so it's nice to see "my" idea wasn't,uh, "dumb."(And at first I realized the last board in a set won't have a board behind it to keep off the snipe. But I found using one of the boards that had already been through the planer works just fine, and since it's been through once there's little or usually no snipe on IT.)
Thanks again, great "tips." :)
I enjoy your hacks and tips daily, here’s one you might like. On my 12 inch planer I removed the in feed and out feed tables and made a 4ft long sled that slides through the planer bed and gives a smooth and even bed that even helps to refuse snipe. I finished the top with Formica laminate to make wood glide through the planer with no resistance. I also use Formica on many jigs like the bottom of my crosscut sled on my table saw to make it almost frictionless.
Great video..!
For me,
What about planing 5/16” thick by 3/4 x 2”.
I need small blocks for guitar hole fills ?
I run boards through on edge all the time! It's never once been a problem, and I've done it hundreds of times. But I've never done it on anything thinner than maybe 1", so maybe that's a factor.
I did even 1/4 of an inch and didn't have a problem. You are actually supposed to do 2 sides on the jointer and 2 sides with the planer
@@PhilGroene Well the purpose of this is for those who DON'T have a JOINTER!!!!
@@aussiegrace no, it was regarding the question whether you can run pieces on the small side through the planer
aussiegrace even with a jointer you must joint one face and one edge and them du the other two sides through the planer to get a perfect straight board
@@meinkonto2034 wrong person!!!!
Hi I hope someone can help me. about the shorts: I have a Ridgid 13" planer and it says not to run boards shorter than 14" but I make cutting boards so some are shorter than that but they are all glued so they are a bit hefty and heavy especially the side grain ones. Do you think I can run them through okay? If not I'll try the hack Colin's hack. Thank you
Hmmmm....I cannot imagine any scenario in which I would rather run several pieces taped together thru my planer to cut the second edge...why would anyone do that instead of using their table saw? If you have a planer you almost certainly have a table saw.
I've given up on snipe. Tried all the tricks, nothing eliminates it. The 2 board trick suggested here does nothing on my planer.
Nice hacks Colin I found a couple of them that even though I've been in the woodworking for 51 years I didn't even know about those.
The one tip/trick i see glaringly obvious in the whole video, is that slab of laminated wood that goes the entire way through your thicknesser that keeps things flat, and allows wood to slide nicely :)
A planer is about twice as expensive as a jointer. Just buy a jointer for edge work.
Thanx mate, good stuff here! BTW, I am extremely annoyed by every video I pull up going first to "B I N G", and to make a comment I then have to transfer to RUclips!! I'm not 'Techno' enough to stop this from happening, I'm more "Hech-no", than Techno! Gb
5 hacks, and didn't even turn on the planer. Totally appreciate this, but show it in action.
Hi. Great video. I wish I had a planer. Regarding the double sided tape. Have a look at the superglue masking tape trick from crimson guitars.
At 3:00 minute mark, I have to disagree with you. I did that and had the two sided tape fail and the short piece came flying back out at me at a great rate of speed. The side pieces must be exactly the same height otherwise the blade will pick up the short board if no rollers holding it down.
Running multiple boards on edge like a joiner why not use hot glue? It can easily be removed.
I have same planner I need to replace roller can you help me getting them rebuild im in Ottawa
Ty Colin, tips I will use for sure, love the Slab sled tip !
You're welcome! Thanks for watching.
Thanks Colin another helpful video...my thickness planer is on order due to arrive any day now. Great to get some insight into using it ...thanks.
Thank you sir, i'm a big fan of your channel from Romania...learned a lot from you....again thanks.
You can feed single boards through on edge just fine, just not with a thickness:width ratio of much more then 1:10.
When running twisted boards through on the sled I just place a screw at the corner of the high corner of the slab and adjust the height until wobble is gone. This works great, no need for various shims which slide around. Just be sure to remove the screw before planing the other side. I didn’t once and oh oh.
Exactly... Just don't put steel anywhere near the planer! Hence the shims not screws. Besides, a screw may be undesirable depending on the work piece
That is an interesting idea. It might be better to screw onto the sled instead. If you don't mind taking the time, you could put a bunch of bolt taps into the sled and then they are reusable.
Thanks from the Slam Bang fishing lodge on the west coast coast of Vancouver Island we specialize in great fishing food and good times
fsihing 👍
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Another really useful video thanks keep them coming
Stuart
So for a beginner watching your video...one might ask, yeah I'll use the double sided tape...but how do I use it...
I'm not judging, but one not too bright might wind the tape around the the boards... 🤔
Snipe can be avoided by leaving both ends longer and cutting to length after thickness planing.
Or by using shepherds the same thickness as the piece being planed, but longer on both ends so both pinch rollers are fully engaged while the board being planed. The shepherds *must* be the same thickness to prevent snipe. Starting with thicker shepherds works too, but you have to make extra passes before the work piece starts to be surfaced.
Very good tips. Thanks Colin!
I learned something! Thanks!!
One hack that it looks like you have, but didn't mention as a hack, is the bed of your planer. The metal over MDF or similar. Did the planer come like that, or is that something you added? It looks added. It looks like it would cut down on the snipe on the ends of the board being planed.
Thanks, but safest to NEVER put pieces shorter than the recommended minimum length through the thicknesser. If a piece is too short to be held down by the feeders it can get picked up by the spinning blades and ejected back out, our ground into the machine. Very very dangerous.
Thanks Colin, I always enjoy your videos. My planer won't feed the wood through no mater what I have tried. Cleaning, adjusting etc. Have you done a video describing how to adjust or set the rollers for this type of problem? Mechanically it appears to be working o.k.
What kind of planer? Size, brand etc?
Hey Colin. Just seen this video and having just recently gotten a planer this has happened a couple of times. Your idea of butting the wood together is brilliant but you mentioned that the last board would still get the snipe. What about using a piece of scrap for the very last piece that way it gets the snipe not the wood your making?
Yes, it called using a Sacrificial board and can work well at times. Give it a try and see if it works for you.
Thanks for watching.
I always wondered if you could still plane edges like that if you made a jig to stabilize them on the side . Didn’t even think of just taping them together!
Is MDF always a reliable flat surface? I have some that was probably not stored correctly that's not flat at all. Thanks for the tips, though. Very useful.
If you're sending 3 or more boards through the planer on their edges, which looks sturdy, why couldn't you use two small clamps, one at each end to hold them together? They would be several inches away from the blades.
Thanks for the video. Very helpful. Don't have budget for a joiner and a planer. Think for my application a planer first. The last tick really helped.
Another quality tips and tricks episode by Colin Knecht.
Thank you Colin!
Thanks doc. I have one getting dropped off here in a little bit . You probably saved me a few temper tantrums .
No Captioned. I'm deaf, how am I going to understand you. Please add captioned. Thank you
I turn my sled around so the cleat goes in first, otherwise the planer pulls the board through and leaves the sled behind.
That planing jig with spacers for twist is much better than a surface planer/jointer/buzzer and a lot safer and can be used on boards as wide as your thicknesser.
Every single video I have watched with you I have learned something new and very good. Thank GOD I subscribed to your channel.
Great stuff Bro. Thumbs up.
Great basic joinery trade knowledge......be surprised how may don't get show this stuff.
Another suggestion for tape is the double-sided turners tape available from Lee Valley. It is very strong, but relatively easy to remove. It is so strong you do not need much, so a roll lasts a long time.
thanks
Have you tried hot glue instead of tape? Comes right off with a scraper, no residue.
Some helpful hints. Thanks.
the first tip was exactly what I was asking if it could be done....awesome thanks Colin
Thanks for your time
It was a pleasure listening Colin.
Can the planning jig be used for small pieces of wood instead of the shepherd boards?
This is a really cool alternative to using shims, and probably a lot more effective. Not my video, just wanted to share it with you.
@
Will running a board through at an angle prevent sniping?
Pull up on the board slightly as it enters and exits.
Hi Colin Im Carlos from Guadalajara México y te agradezco los tips me sirven mucho gracias !
It's not necessary to push the previous board through to avoid snipe. Just start the next one before the previous one finishes. use a short sacrificial piece at the end to take the snipe.
Jds mortiser
superb tips really enjoyed that and the positivity that just emits from the presenter is fantastic, thanks for the vid :D
Colin, some of your audience would benefit from CC. I have tried several times to decipher the rigamarole assigned to us setting it up, to no avail. I have a hearing disability so CC is my only option.
Great advice and demo. Thank you!
Your plank jig works brilliantly 👍👍
cood cod
teşekkürler...
thank you...
Thank you.. Alway informative
most, if not all, of this could be done with a planer sled
Very useful video! Thank you
Thank you some goodness there! Rather than wedges (door shims) try using playing cards cheap and very malleable, very useful clamping as well
Griz Woldstad or use Saran Wrap and drywall mud...
For the planer sled I Just use a bit of hot melt glue
Thanks the boards on the side great advice
Thanks Colin, some great info
Thank you.
The red tape is cskke. VHB tape by 3m.. good stuff.. and great tip!!!
Plan and simple..... see what I did there 😎
A great tutorial as always. Thanks for sharing your valuable experience!
Another winner! I didn't know that about figured wood. I've definitely experienced chip-out....
Should I be using a solid piece of wood on planer like you have.
You are the very best. Thank you.
Anybody wanna give me an old plainer not being used i sure could use one !!! Lol well i thought id ask u never know im a poor country boy haha
Ed De Byrnss watch the pawn shops. I got a jet jointer and a sears planer for $375. Both worked well
Very cool idea about the planer sled!
Thank You Lynn!
Doubled sided tape?
Thanks for the great tips!
Colin - one comment I have is that if you have enough support on the outfeed and your outfeed roller height/tension is adjusted correctly - especially on the makita 2040 - you can avoid having any snipe at all even with one board being run through. i just spent a couple days tuning up my 2040.
Lifting up on the bords when they enter and exit greatly reduces snip.
I should be receiving a thickness planer in the mail today, I will definitely be using the planer sled trick to even out some old barn wood I recently received. Thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Always great tips, thanks for sharing : )
Great video, thanks! Regards from Brazil!!
When putting a few pieces through on edge, why not just pinch them together with a little clamp?lower than the final cutting depth of course?
Nice thought ......but have you seen what a peice of metal does to a thicknesser head. You're a braver man than me. 🤣😂😁😀😎
Very bad idea. You might get away with it, but when it goes wrong it will go very wrong. Please don't do it.
Yep being doing that for years. Don't listen to those other numptys comments.
@@UncleChopChop22 I am a graduate designer and educator with 40 odd years of workshop experience. Ran a community colleges workshop for 15 years and never had any accidents with my staff or students. So I'm a numpty??
The only accident we had was in the holidays when I wasn't around. A contractor put his hand in the planer - my technician had to clean the flesh off the machine.
You are entitled to be reckless with your own safety, but I don't believe its right that you encourage others to follow your bad practice.
I'm pretty certain you will have some smart and/or insulting response. Fill you boots!
I've doing that for a long time, but I only use the smallest C-clamp I can get away with. F-clamps are prone to come loose because of vibration.
I also avoid snipes by slightly lifting on the piece as it enters as well as exits the planer.
Handy tips, thanks.
Super! Thanks!
Colin what do you think of hot glue instead of tape? Does it cause any problems such as finishing?
Dont know about that but you could nail them together at the ends. I dont have problems running boards on edge.
Nice :-) Thx for the Tricks
Thanks Colin.
SAME MAKITA I HAVE 16 IN
Another set of great tips really enjoying this series.
Very impressed!
Very useful tips, Colin. Thanks for sharing.
Although I do not have a thickness planer (and I am not sure if I'll ever have one) these tips were totally comprehensible.
Very well explained.
Great tips once again 👍👍👍
great tips and as always, well pesented, thanks for posting Colin, always enjoy watching your videos, from garry in the UK