Grand Seiko SBGK017 Watch: A Turning Point For The Brand & How They Beat The Swiss
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2024
- In today's hands on watch review, I begin my search for the ultimate Grand Seiko as I consider adding one to my collection. Where better to start than with a model that is completely unique and unlike any Grand Seiko before it, and quite possibly an indicator of a new direction for the brand-the Grand Seiko Nanbu tekki dial from the Elegance collection (ref. SBGK017). We'll take a look at the brand's history, design evolution, and technical innovation to fully understand not only the significance of this particular watch, but also why they make some of the best luxury watches in the world, how they beat the Swiss at their own game, and how they will continue to do so. Join me for another free, independent, and in-depth review including positives and negatives of one of the most important Grand Seiko watches that has gone largely overlooked in mainstream watch enthusiast circles. What do you think about the Grand Seiko Nanbu tekki dial from the Elegance Collection? Please share in the comments!
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![DDG & G Herbo - Nosey [Official Video]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/I9Ra0Zc2NlQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Obviously GS put a great deal of thought into this watch. And the execution, as always with GS, is flawless. Well done TGV!
Absolutely flawless.
Well, except for the no lume, non tapered bracelet, no micro adjustment and 30m WR all for ten grand.
As always, informative, entertaining, and inspiring. That case shape alone is enough to sell the watch, but that dial is a treat. Thank you for such a top-notch presentation! All the best-
Great video TGV! I honestly can't understand why modern watches can't get the water resistance higher‽ I wear my sarb every day and it's nice to not have to worry about water, I've forgotten to take it off on many occasions. Keep up the amazing work!!!!
YESSSSS 🙌🙌🙌 I am totally with you. It always seems to come back to the good old SARB, still unbeaten to this day. Enjoy it and thank you Scott.
Best regards,
TGV
I get it now why I love your channel so much.. you’re the Sir David Attenborough of the watch world. Slow, steady, insightful and knowledgeable. Love it!
You made our day. I read your comment out aloud to my wife, we both thank you from the bottom of our hearts. Onwards and ever upwards!
Best regards
TGV
Hey mate, need your considered advice. I’m fixated about the GS SBGK017. I’m in my watch collection journey that it’s all become ho hum with
Sports style or dive watches. I’ve got Squale x 3 omega PO 2500, Hamiltons, all sit in my watch box and not really in rotation perhaps due to the fact I don’t want them damaged cause they are so damn beautiful.
. I remember your episode where you felt like culling your Collection and redefining your collection to suit your personality as of now. My question is how do you get rid of pieces that you’re “attached” to, to just one or two watches that fits your person at this time? Big ask I know. I only ask as I think you’re going through the same process as me. Cheers
If I can ever afford a luxury watch, Grand Seiko would be my first acquisition. No doubt. Thank you as always for the thorough review and history lesson.
Ya I agree. I got a Seiko cocktail 🍸 but if I ever had the privilege of spending big money, I'd go straight to the Grand Seikos
i hope you guys can afford one soon 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I'm working towards either an "entry" Grand Seiko quartz or a nice Longines at a similar price for my first and only "luxury" watch - going to take a couple of years!
Good call, just make sure to never buy new. Generally GS can be found at about half of retail on the secondary market. Deals to be had everywhere.
@@Explorer40mm Thanks for the advice
Another magnificently done video! While this watch is well beyond what I’m willing to spend, it is very striking, particularly for a GS. What struck me besides that beautiful dial is the way the case curves upward into the crystal and the curve continues. It looks like all of one design, very much like a streamlined car. Exquisitely done.
I recently got a field master ( land turtle ) directly from Japan. On the warranty card there was a stamp where it was sold. When I looked it up it was the grand seiko studio as shown in stock footage in this video. And it seems that it has been regulated because the 4R35 inside is much accurate than the one in my baby Tuna.
Must have been from before GS were spun off from Seiko as their own company. Congratulations!
A lovely design, well-made. Just something missing for me, not sure what? an excellent review though and description. You’re a photography skills (or is it videography) are excellent T!
Best regards
Stuart
I would like to offer myself the
SBGX261, 37 mm , this is a quartz but this is the 9F62 movement and this is not juste the classic quartz , this a stunning movement which is assembled by two watchmakers, the precision is remarkable and does not change with the temperature, it is also waterproof at 100 with sharp needles and exceptional polishing!
Loved the intro to this video! Leave it to Grand Seiko to put out a stunner like this. Absolutely amazing 😍
The master of intros strikes again. Oh and the watch is also quite special. 😁
Every time your intro is amazing!
A wonderful review of a beautiful watch. Fantastic editing work, as usual. Thank you for this!!!!
Discussing Japanese watch development while playing Godzilla is just brilliant.
Excellent video per usual TGV. I'm saving for a SBGN027 currently and this video bumped up my excitement.
Great video and well-balanced as always, TGV. In addition to “Seiko” on the dial serving as a shibboleth of sorts, the parent Seiko has shot themselves in the foot by diluting the differentiation between Seiko and GS. Putting spring drive movements in Seikos has not helped GS, nor has Seiko’s upmarket positioning which is further muddying the waters. This watch is beautiful on the screen and I’m sure it’s terrific in-hand. I just think Seiko is making both tactical and strategic errors that is preventing GS from getting the recognition and respect it deserves.
Seriously wonderful. Might the make the shortlist for the GS you're planning for your eventual Japan visit?
Always love your content🧡
Mi piace la statuetta della Madonna, bravo
Urban Gentry making the best GS video
The sky blue limited edition version of this watch is a near grail for me.
I don't blame you, you have great taste.
Thank you Keith,
Best regards,
TGV
Consider reviewing the Grand Seiko SBGW283
Is that the same one I talked about in a recent video? Great choice, regardless, I will certainly consider it. Thank you Ethan,
Best regards,
TGV
Pins are acceptable, because they are discrete, and less industrial looking. Perfect for a dress watch.
I love your videos! Great content! Keep it up!
Not fan of GS, but this one is great. 👌
Great intro.
Ohhhhh. Very high price, eh? But that design is really better in the provided leather strap (which was sadly not fitted for this video).
Beautiful dial, case, hands and movement. The bracelet doesn't suit it at all, it would be much nicer on the leather strap.
Gorgeous
Cool intro btw😂
You’re far from limited in your distaste for their bracelet. It’s a pervasive criticism that they choose unusual sizes with minimal to no tapering. It’s reflective in the wearing experience and a disappointing shortcoming for a watch of this price and caliber. They need to improve their bracelets
Thank you Sean, glad to know I am not alone!
Best regards,
TGV
Wish they Tapered the Bracelet
Great Video as always…
Where is that knife from? 1:07
It's a Deejo. You can customise the engraving and handle material on them any way you like, but they're very overpriced for such cheap blade steel.
What happened to the end of the collection 💀
Beautiful watches! Love my Grand Seiko!! Great video my friend! Cheers!
Grazie fratello!
🥂😎
Best regards,
TGV
You have without a doubt the absolute best intros in the watch community!! Your videos are the standard by which all other watch videos are evaluated. Your reviews are concise, honest, and independent of any outside influences. I always feel like I can trust your assessments of the watches reviewed. Approximately half of the watches in my very modest collection are the direct result of your videos. To say “thank you” seems somehow inadequate but the fact remains that I am truly grateful for your channel and all of the effort you put into every single video. Well done!🥃
Class personified
love the Ran movie reference 😂 excellent film but it was funny seeing it in this context
Meiji is pronounced "May Gee"
also Gee as in Bee Gees not Geese haha
@@forgettmenot well seeing as "gee" is an American expression, I didn't think there'd be any misunderstanding lol
@@iamsheep no American will read "Gee" as "Jee" unless there's context
@@ailestriker9888 what the hell are you on about? Gee is a word
@@iamsheep jeez is also a word, along with many other words that vary in pronunciation of gee or jee. It’s not as obvious as you think.
I'm not an expert, but I really don't understand why manufacturers make higher end watches with 30 meter water resistance. Water resistance really doesn't cost much, just gaskets and careful machining, which they should have anyway. For 100 meters, they don't need to resist crushing pressures and so don't need thick beefy crystals or casebacks.
There are any number of $100 watches with 200 meter WR.
Regarding this particular watch, I love the dial texture, but really hate Seiko's new obsession with ugly, unnecessary power reserve gauges. They've ruined the entire new Presage line with them. Some of them have power reserve gauges AND and open heart hole in the dial. Whoever designed the previous generation of beautiful mid- and High-end watches, all of which are now out of production, must have retired.
Always appreciate the effort you put into your videos TGV.
I'm a pavlovian lad, I see a glimpse of Kurosawa's Ran and automatically press the like button...
Nice timepiece. Great intro! But overpriced like many GS watches since their rise in overall popularity. Rather have an IWC Portofino for 2/3 the price.
The intro is absolutely disgusting wow .... 🤯⌚🤯🤙🤙🤙🍺🍺🍺
Grand. Seiko. SBGK0 17 watch. A. Turing. Point. For. The. Brand. and
Seiko put tremendous effort to turn themselves into a value brand for volume over status and they will NEVER be able to shake that stigma. Sometimes "winning" isn't exactly victory. For the money they charge, the bracelet could be tapered.
Grand Seiko = Pure Class
I'm watching this video at our local Niodles and Company eating a pad tai!
Tristano, you've outdone yourself! This is simply an amazing video! You've turned a premiere watch brand into a historical narrative on Japanese watch culture! Even the intro of this video and the classical piece was exceptional. Well done!!!
Bis....bis!
Encore!
Ive always placed Japanese watches at the same level if not above when it comes to the affordable level. Id wager any Orient Star would always beat the equivalently priced Swiss watch. Never been a fan of small seconds so not my favourite Grand Seiko design. But i wouldn't hesitate to consider a Grand Seiko purchase above any other luxury watch purchase. The effort always shows which is a factor that just can't be ignored. Hope you and your family are healthy and well sir. Have a great upcoming week
Thank you Chris, I need to revisit Orient Star, duly noted.
Have a great rest of the weekend and I hope you and your family are well too.
Onwards, upwards and chin chin!
TGV
Flies under the Radar.. Love it!
I'm not sure anyone can compete when these guys are at their best
Seeing Sir Roger Moore showing off the Hamilton Quartz, and a Rolex sub, in the same film, 1973s Live and Let die..evidence the early quartz technology was making the main stage, and yes changed the world of watchmaking. Great vid as always TGV. ❤
But then alot people started to get bored with all the digital stuff and went back to mechanical watches
Review all of GS watches. Thanks in advance
A fair, wel made, good mix of history and present, review. You are a great storyteller, please keep up the good work.
I’m similar to you in that a Grand Seiko is in my future, but definitely want it to be in tandem with a trip to Japan. I’ve never been and would just love to go. A Tokyo Flash crazy digital and a Grand Seiko would be a must.
Was fortunate enough to visit the Seiko museum in Ginza recently. It was a great experience that showcased Seiko’s testament to precision and quality.
TGV, your intros are SO cool!!!
Absolutely beautiful. It's lovely to see a different case shape from GS. It would be interesting to see a spring drive in that case shape. I agree with you about the bracelet. One that tapers does look more elegant. One that doesn't makes the watch feel chunky and bigger somehow.
Of course the other movement that defines Grand seiko for me is the hi-beat. This can trace its origins back to the Swiss beating calibre 45.
Am I the only watch nerd that doesn't really like Grand Seiko except for the Spring Drive innovation?
Yes.
I love Seiko and the Tuna Marine master Ninja with the Legendary 7C46 movement is my favorite Seiko ever made but Grand Seiko just doesn't do anything for me
Grand Seiko and Shin Godzilla, can't go wrong!
Top video as always TGV 👏🏻 🦖
Their fit and finish is quite simply amazing.
Excellent Video, as always.
How about exploring the different Grand Seiko product lines, it can be overwhelming?
My favourite is the Grand Seiko Spring Drive SBGY003.
Great intro, fantastic cinematics, informative narration, and a really beautiful watch. Well done, TGV!
Thank you fratello!
I hope all is well, my best to you this memorial weekend.
O&U!
TGV
Great video but personally I'm not a big fan of the watch. I think it looks a bit bland perhaps needing a splash of colour.
I would actually prefer to have SPB259J1 prospex Ginza special edition to look at 🙈
Obviously just talking dial "interest" I'm aware that the GS is leaps ahead in all aspects
Grand Seiko! My latest was the GMT SBGE285 Mist flake dial, which would make a very nice review subject.
I got into the hobby as a Seiko fan boy, like everyone else, of course. Eventually, I bought my GS sbgv 207. So pretty and exquisite, with both dial and case really demonstrating that famous attention to detail and finishing. I loved it. So I never really worked out why I found it a bit boring. It's something I've become aware of with even the prettiest GS Snowflake. Is it the same here? Just because you can truly appreciate it, it doesn't mean you'll automatically love it....
Just as an addendum. I've never watched many of your videos, but I've been catching up and really enjoying them. Especially when with Mark. Keep it up, I appreciate the effort 👍
Firstly, a very well made and produced video. I almost started watching RAN again last night and now will have to! Please don't take my thoughts on the watch as criticism of your work, which I think is great . :)
However, I must admit, I'm not a fan of GS and that design does nothing for me. In general, I find them a bit bland and boring, with pricing way out of proportion for their price. For that one I feel the dial seems a bit too big for the case and I can't say I'm a fan of the curved crystal. I kept thinking can't they even make a steel case and bracelet black dial watch that actually looks good! Something about the proportions I don't like...looks a little too large on your wrist as well. The bracelet doesn't look good at all and looks cheaper than the rest of the watch.
I checked the price of similar models released in Australia (I know this is a US only release)..$12,000 Aus. lol absolutely no way. Just too many nice watches that are just as well made that look so much better. I would rather wear an Omega Constellation for less. GS must be a US thing, never seen one over here in the wild....
Please keep up the good work and content though. It's most appreciated.
I liked that you reviewed a slightly older watch. Why don't you review some older ones every once in a while. Love your show.
There are a couple of things wrong with almost every GS. If they fixed them instead of polishing bits they would sell a LOT more. 1) Bracelet, taper and introduce the best micro adjust ever seen. 2)Get rid of daft lug widths. Do these 2 things and I’m all over it.
Also the spring version Sbg413 was Us market only .
Nowadays it is "suffering " from huge demand in the Uk .
Who believes again ?
Nizar
This watch has to be seen firsthand to be understood. The dial is unbelievable. I tried one on several months ago and it absolutely blew my mind. The finishing is out of this world on this one, a cut above even Grand Seiko's usual high bar. While the bracelet isn't perfect - no micro adjust, no taper, lug width - it is a wonder on the wrist!
Wonderful review!....I’m so glad to see another manual winder....can these be making a come back?!
Loved the video TGV. Even my wife watched it. Would love to see a review of the mighty SBGE248G. The two tone sub and gmt killer. Best, Dom.
An american trying to correct pronunciation using "american" rather than actual phonetics is the most american thing i've seen today 😂
The phonetic spelling for GEE is JEE
Phonetically Meiji would be more like meh-ee-jee
Hello, TGV,
great video, as always. Recently, I was impressed how much has this chanel improved over the years, really. Just one thing, that spoils it for me a little - please, You mention Your disgust regarding the watch journalism less often? I do understand Your POV, I share it in a way, but I, and surely more of us, come here to forget about that and watch independant content. I would understand if it would be mentioned here and there, but it seems to me like a trend of Your latest videos. Do not take this personaly, it is just an observation from a viewer.
Best of luck
AF
Love the magic of a spring drive, but you will *forever* be trying to explain to *everyone* that asks about your watch, that it's not a cheap Seiko. And none of them will care or be convinced it's anything but a $200 watch. I love my Seikos & hate watch brand snobbery, but it's true.
Excellent video again TGV. Did you dee the video Grand Seiko posted about a week ago presenting their new workshop featuring jaw droping technologies?
Amd also in that video they presented a new tourbillon.
I'll preface my comments with a happy admission to being a dedicated Seiko fanboi so perhaps my opinions are not unbiased. My own collecting journey has naturally made its way from more entry-level Seikos to their appreciably more top-tier references then ultimately to now having several GS options in my keeper box as well. Maddeningly their bracelet and strap choices fall flat on their face with the things they lack. That said, the rest of the watch is incredibly striking. With its more compact size (that short lug to lug will be delicious for wearers with more slender wrists!) and overall design I wouldn't use this for a daily anyway so the lack of water resistance, while regrettable, isn't a deal breaker for me.
My dream GS for my retirement SLGA015 Evolution 9 divers black dial.
It still says Seiko. That's not a bad thing, however, it's hard to drop 7 to 50 grand on a watch that bares a name that immediately conjurs up images of an SKX.
11:02 can you make a video about this monument of Japanese design? This is the Toyota 2000GT of design, the most beautiful vintage Japanese watch ever.
I didn't like grand Seiko that much.
That was before your vid.
Your ability to emphasize the true beauty of watches never fails to impresse me.
GS are on par or better than their price equivalent Swiss counterparts on all fronts with the odd exception of their bracelets. Their leather straps are as good or better than anything out of Switzerland, but the bracelets continue to lag behind, it’s just very odd. Considering the resources GS has at its disposal (being part of the Seiko empire) and the relative simplicity of a bracelet compared to other aspects of the watch. Maybe that’ll change in the coming years, it’s about time and long overdue!
This looks like a sports watch, why cant it have 100m water resistance and screw down crown? Its so beautiful though.😭😍
Pretty watch. Great quality. I just don’t buy all the nonsense about how this or that is inspired by a yak fart in the mist…. Come on. It’s a pretty watch. Frankly one of the few I actually like. Most of them are giant and (gasp) almost gaudy.
Also check the Sinn 103st sa with the bracelet. Not 9 links but almost. And more own history.
Excellent piece but until GS makes significant changes to their clasps, make the quick adjust feature as standard like some even cheap micros i wont be a buyer. 😊
I really like that dial. They should have dropped Seiko from their name with these watches. People don't normally associate Seiko with watches that cost thousands of dollars so any watch with the name on it costing that much seems overpriced in their mind. Lexus wouldn't have done as well if their cars were called Grand Toyota.
I love the historical shots in your videos cause it makes me realize that 100 years ago and today, the only difference really is brighter lights on the buildings. Whats 100 years from now going to bring?
Thanks, I‘ll get a GS one day, great brand, engineering etc. just no Lume on most of their watches, I cannot comprehend that
The watch itself is lovely in every way except for the bracelet. Bracelet doesn’t compliment the watch. My eyes go towards the bracelet first instead of the watch face.
100 meters water resistance
New old stock victorinox watches on eBay from the 90s for 30 bucks
It'd be sick if Grand Seiko made a watch to celebrate Japan's rich history of samurai warriors and rulers by producing a limited edition piece with mini kitanas as the hour and minute hands 🎉
while I am a big fan of GS (I bought one recently) this one, i,m not sure about the dial .Just my personal opinion of course but if I were buying another it would,nt be this one
Thank you so much TGV for sharing your thoughts on such a beautiful timepiece!! This watch attracts attention and is conservative at the same time making it “pure class!” Stay healthy and well as always! (Nick L) ❤❤❤🦖🦖🦖👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Nice. But I still prefer my Casio AX-1 melody (in excellent condition).
super awesome video, as always, congrats Tristano and CIAO!
would be cool is grand seiko produced a dress watch just for the emperors of japan. something with a top grade ruby dial with 22K yellow gold. ultra exclusive