I can believe you get a lot of critiquing, this is the internet, but take it from a fellow engineer just getting into the 3D designing and printing world that this machine is truly impressive. Does it have flaws? Absolutely, but frankly I'd be blown away if you could print even half that speed without serious flaws. I hope to see more work put into this machine, I've only just subbed from seeing a short recently of this beast printing, but I'm already excited to see where this goes. Cheers from NC 🤘😎
Thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm hoping to take everything that I learned from my V0 and put it into use in a ground up design I'm working on which should be just as fast and twice as reliable....or the other way around if I get the urge to print a 1 minute benchy 😁
I did try that originally but it didn't stiffen the chassis in the correct ways. It reduced vibrations but I had two distinct modes of vibration so my input shaping was still very ineffective
Not at all boring. Thank you for the deep dive. My crazy idea is to add a 2nd gantry above the normal one, probably driven by it's own steppers. Then put the extruder and fans on this upper gantry and a very short Bowden tube between the extruder and hotend. The idea is the heavy components on the upper gantry are then free to vibrate without affecting the motion of the hotend (as the Bowden can flex). The hotend cooling fan would need to blow across the heatsink without making contact (with an air gap) to avoid vibrations from the heavy, low-accuracy gantry from coupling in to the hotend. My thoughts are we could get to a hotend-only, high-accuracy motion system with most of the benefits of a direct drive.
Very cool, not boring to fellow engineers & tinkerers. Just had a crazy idea for a forced air heatsink/heartbreak. Think a cussion of air being fed down through a pipe surrounding the bowden, the air enters the top of the heatsink with the filament, fed through a spiral (like a thread on a bolt), down to the hot end, with gradually increasing sized vent holes.. The filament path would be constrained by the centre of the threads and the air would insulate the filament from the hot walls before being bled off through the vent holes. The pump would be remote to cut down weight. Like I say crazy idea may be to complex for little benefit, except preheating filament?
Thanks for sharing this awesome machine and the innovations behind it. Since you obviously care about the math I wanted to point out that with F=MA reducing M by 50% does not mean you can increase A by 50%. It’s actually better than that. Reducing M by 50% means you can double A (or increase it by 100%)
I would say it's worth it if you don't know anything about 3d printers and want functional parts. Otherwise a prusa mk3 and markforge filament would be my runner up recommendation
What bearings are you using for the idlers? I had about 150hrs on regular stainless steel bearings and they looked very beat up. Your speeds probably need to change them often? I just upgraded them to ceramics with some high speed lube. Should hold 10,000rpms for long times with high heat! Great job explaining everything!
150 hours is a very short life for a bearing. They were probably the cheapest chinese bearing made of soft steel and zero lubrication. Anything better would last longer
You mentioned that weight of the XY gantry was a variable to acceleration and that your force was a constant. Would you be able to have two stepper motors per axis belt to change your force variable?
Try this: Vortex cooler chilling into your intake. Can also do peltier cooling. If you really have $ to burn, run ln2 vapor from a Dewar. Perfectly dry,
would embedding part of it(such as the legs being 30cm longer and stuck into poured mass) or anchoring it into a large mass of concrete help firm it up even more against bad resonance? Would water cooled hot end be lighter or heavier?
I think I mentioned in the video that I have a bag of concrete and I'm going to pour a base for it. I'm hoping it will help with rigidity of the frame. watercooled might be a little bit heavier. Even if I could make it lighter I would probably stick with air-cooled because it's so much simpler and has less points of failure
Would adding an extrusion to the front and back at the top of the printer improve stability/resonance? Above the X/Y motor mounts and where you've placed the tophat mounts at the front. Sorry if that's been asked before.
I think you are underestimating the effectiveness of cooling via compressed air if you are assuming the mass flow you are getting for cooling is just the mass flow comming from the compressor. If you have a small air outlet producing a fast jet of air most of the air movement will actually be surrounding air being pulled along by the venturi effect. Think dyson bladeless fan or those compressed air powered vauum cleaners.
Can you do a vid on the Markforged? Therere are precious little videos out there on the "beginner level industrial printers" out there that aren't corporate shill videos. Would be great to get a vid from someone who bought and uses one of these 2000 to 5000 buck devices? :)
Thanks for explaining the reason why even though you don’t owe us any lol but it’s nice to understand why also it seem to key to speed is to anchor the machine like vzbot from Simon lol 😂 or else shake of death 💀
I can believe you get a lot of critiquing, this is the internet, but take it from a fellow engineer just getting into the 3D designing and printing world that this machine is truly impressive. Does it have flaws? Absolutely, but frankly I'd be blown away if you could print even half that speed without serious flaws. I hope to see more work put into this machine, I've only just subbed from seeing a short recently of this beast printing, but I'm already excited to see where this goes. Cheers from NC 🤘😎
Thanks for the words of encouragement! I'm hoping to take everything that I learned from my V0 and put it into use in a ground up design I'm working on which should be just as fast and twice as reliable....or the other way around if I get the urge to print a 1 minute benchy 😁
@@fail_fast Yeah I'd go mad with power if I could print a 1 minute benchy 👀 probably why I don't own a fancy 3D printer as it is 😂
@@fail_fast fail faster. Jk bro your actually insane. Thanks for sharing this with everyone
For rigidity couldn’t you add a unibody top hat with no panels? That way you get the rigid frame without the heat
I did try that originally but it didn't stiffen the chassis in the correct ways. It reduced vibrations but I had two distinct modes of vibration so my input shaping was still very ineffective
Not at all boring. Thank you for the deep dive.
My crazy idea is to add a 2nd gantry above the normal one, probably driven by it's own steppers. Then put the extruder and fans on this upper gantry and a very short Bowden tube between the extruder and hotend. The idea is the heavy components on the upper gantry are then free to vibrate without affecting the motion of the hotend (as the Bowden can flex). The hotend cooling fan would need to blow across the heatsink without making contact (with an air gap) to avoid vibrations from the heavy, low-accuracy gantry from coupling in to the hotend.
My thoughts are we could get to a hotend-only, high-accuracy motion system with most of the benefits of a direct drive.
you were talking in spanish to me because im a total noob but i still watched all the way till the end great stuff my dude!
Stick around and hopefully soon you'll be fluent!
Have you tried flipping the whole machine upside down? That would decrease the shaking by alot i guess. Im not joking.
I had not..... but I will now. Thanks for the comment!
@@fail_fast Damn you actually read my comment. I subbed and am looking forward to hear or maybe even see how it went :)
@@fail_fast Maybe check out the positron printer for some inspiration
What is your hotend exactly? I didn’t catch you saying what it was in the video
Not boring at all - thank you for sharing with us in such detail.
Very cool, not boring to fellow engineers & tinkerers.
Just had a crazy idea for a forced air heatsink/heartbreak.
Think a cussion of air being fed down through a pipe surrounding the bowden, the air enters the top of the heatsink with the filament, fed through a spiral (like a thread on a bolt), down to the hot end, with gradually increasing sized vent holes.. The filament path would be constrained by the centre of the threads and the air would insulate the filament from the hot walls before being bled off through the vent holes. The pump would be remote to cut down weight. Like I say crazy idea may be to complex for little benefit, except preheating filament?
I don't think that's crazy at all. I love it!
@@fail_fast If you got access to the equipment go for it! I can't do anything apart doodling drawings at the moment XD
These kinda videos are rather rare, but has a lot of info packed into it. summary: it takes a lot lol.
Thanks for sharing this awesome machine and the innovations behind it. Since you obviously care about the math I wanted to point out that with F=MA reducing M by 50% does not mean you can increase A by 50%. It’s actually better than that. Reducing M by 50% means you can double A (or increase it by 100%)
Thanks for catching that, you're absolutely right. I got carried away in the video and misspoke.
Curious about the printed beam, why not go with cf-abs?
CF-25 is stiffer and I keep it on hand
I'd love to see more on the Markforged printer. Is it work that much $$$$????
I would say it's worth it if you don't know anything about 3d printers and want functional parts. Otherwise a prusa mk3 and markforge filament would be my runner up recommendation
are you still using your hotend combo from the description?
Yep! Although I do have a custom hotend in the works!
@@fail_fast i'm assuming u ussing cht nozzle as well
What bearings are you using for the idlers? I had about 150hrs on regular stainless steel bearings and they looked very beat up. Your speeds probably need to change them often? I just upgraded them to ceramics with some high speed lube. Should hold 10,000rpms for long times with high heat! Great job explaining everything!
150 hours is a very short life for a bearing. They were probably the cheapest chinese bearing made of soft steel and zero lubrication. Anything better would last longer
You mentioned that weight of the XY gantry was a variable to acceleration and that your force was a constant. Would you be able to have two stepper motors per axis belt to change your force variable?
What Bowden extruder are you running?
Hello. I love your mods. Could You share A/B 42sth48-2504 motor mounts stl please?
Try this:
Vortex cooler chilling into your intake. Can also do peltier cooling.
If you really have $ to burn, run ln2 vapor from a Dewar. Perfectly dry,
would embedding part of it(such as the legs being 30cm longer and stuck into poured mass) or anchoring it into a large mass of concrete help firm it up even more against bad resonance?
Would water cooled hot end be lighter or heavier?
I think I mentioned in the video that I have a bag of concrete and I'm going to pour a base for it. I'm hoping it will help with rigidity of the frame.
watercooled might be a little bit heavier. Even if I could make it lighter I would probably stick with air-cooled because it's so much simpler and has less points of failure
Would adding an extrusion to the front and back at the top of the printer improve stability/resonance? Above the X/Y motor mounts and where you've placed the tophat mounts at the front. Sorry if that's been asked before.
are the bed fans in push-pull?
Push and push hence why I have the door and lid off - the air needs somewhere to go
@@fail_fast try push-pull
You got a link to those feet?
github.com/Fail-Fast-V0/Voron-Mods
@@fail_fast dope thanks
That cooling looks similar to the vzbot rscs. Is that accurate?
I think you are underestimating the effectiveness of cooling via compressed air if you are assuming the mass flow you are getting for cooling is just the mass flow comming from the compressor.
If you have a small air outlet producing a fast jet of air most of the air movement will actually be surrounding air being pulled along by the venturi effect.
Think dyson bladeless fan or those compressed air powered vauum cleaners.
This takes the phrase “technology always gets cheaper and better” to a whole other level.
damn that cf-25 is pricey
It's worth the money if you can afford it but a close second and the best bang for the buck is Esun PAHT (make sure not to order the ePA by mistake)
why not weld up a frame out of 1/2" steel or something?
Can you do a vid on the Markforged? Therere are precious little videos out there on the "beginner level industrial printers" out there that aren't corporate shill videos. Would be great to get a vid from someone who bought and uses one of these 2000 to 5000 buck devices? :)
Titans of 3d printing. Boom!
We need a competition... This printer is so mesmerizing. Just go bososoku with it. RUclips will love it
Possibly some sort of evaporative cooling? Very interesting video
Meanwhile me printing at 350mm/s on a Cartesian for a 10 min benchy
Fast printing is mm³/s filament not mm/s paths. 😃
Nice work!!!
Thanks for explaining the reason why even though you don’t owe us any lol but it’s nice to understand why also it seem to key to speed is to anchor the machine like vzbot from Simon lol 😂 or else shake of death 💀
It takes a strong stomach to accept the shitty print quality these speeds cause. Nothing else.
You don’t even show the printing. People don’t want to hear you talk for 20 min they want to see the machine do something