I have had my srl2 for a couple years now and it did take some getting used to but i love it and i feel it works better then any other detector i have had. I didnt know about the turbo mode. Guess i never read the instructions haha. Hopefully i will go on a leak repair today so i can try the turbo out. Thanks for the great vid as always
I'm in the same boat , I am never buying anything Fieldpiece again I'm on my second set of $500 gauges I've had five me the temperature probe and all them has went bad I've had it with Fieldpiece
how close to leak do you have to be for each of these to detect leak. If in evaporator will they detect if I pry the service panel just enough to get probe head in there?
You can use a tank of refrigerant and slightly crack open the valve then put bubble leak in the tank nozzle and time how long it takes for the bubble to burst. Adjust the valve to the point where it takes about 15 seconds for the bubble to burst. I'm not sure what leak rate that is but it's small and it's how how I test my leak equipment before every use.
You had to hold that IR detector directly on the leak to get your "change". That is just not realistic in the field. The problem here is that a new technology needs to be developed for the newer NOD gases.
He is testing on a 0.3 oz/year reference leak, in the real world you won't even be looking for a leak that small, or even know it is there. Real world leaks are orders of magnitude larger.
I have only used infrared and agree I've been looking for another. Considerations, H-10 120v only, testo heated diode, field piece headed diode after watching Northwest Ohio videos demonstrate slr8. Don't buy h-10 pro battery powered. Doesn't do great for price
@@tonymckay9031 I haven't been happy with all the false alarms of the hsl8, fieldpiece just sent me a slr2 infrared to try out, I just tested it against my h10 pro, the slr2 is not as sensitive at r22 as the pro, but it did pick up the 404a and 134a after waiting a fews minutes longer after cracking the bottle just a little bit. I can't wait to try it in a real world test. I'll let everyone know what I found out.
@@HVACRSurvival great! Appreciate that.. I just got my hand on a 120v only h-10g that I'm going to try replacing the sensor on. Would definitely want to hear how you feel about the infrared fieldpiece. Thanks!
As it turns out, nitrogen, gauges, bubbles are the best leak detector I got.
Great Vid Jim, thank you!!
I have had my srl2 for a couple years now and it did take some getting used to but i love it and i feel it works better then any other detector i have had. I didnt know about the turbo mode. Guess i never read the instructions haha. Hopefully i will go on a leak repair today so i can try the turbo out. Thanks for the great vid as always
What are your thoughts on the SRL2 now that it's been quite a few years? Are you still using it or have you switched to something else?
You can purchase a range of Calibrated reference leaks traceable to National standards for all gasses from H T Products Ltd based in the UK.
If ever you could explain how work the Fieldpiece SMG5 megger. For some reason, for me, it's not clear. Thank's
is it nitrogen gas can detect the leaks
I bought one of these two years ago I might have found one or two leaks with it what a waste of money
I'm in the same boat , I am never buying anything Fieldpiece again I'm on my second set of $500 gauges I've had five me the temperature probe and all them has went bad I've had it with Fieldpiece
how close to leak do you have to be for each of these to detect leak. If in evaporator will they detect if I pry the service panel just enough to get probe head in there?
🤝
Where can I buy that calibration tool ? Did you build it or can I buy one ?
You can use a tank of refrigerant and slightly crack open the valve then put bubble leak in the tank nozzle and time how long it takes for the bubble to burst. Adjust the valve to the point where it takes about 15 seconds for the bubble to burst. I'm not sure what leak rate that is but it's small and it's how how I test my leak equipment before every use.
@@TheNYgolfer So you are suggesting using refrigerant for leak detection vs using nitrogen?
You had to hold that IR detector directly on the leak to get your "change". That is just not realistic in the field. The problem here is that a new technology needs to be developed for the newer NOD gases.
He is testing on a 0.3 oz/year reference leak, in the real world you won't even be looking for a leak that small, or even know it is there.
Real world leaks are orders of magnitude larger.
How useful is it when you don't know the exact location of the leak?
hands down,i think the heated diode is better
mark simms i agree. i dont like the infrared lag
I have only used infrared and agree I've been looking for another. Considerations, H-10 120v only, testo heated diode, field piece headed diode after watching Northwest Ohio videos demonstrate slr8. Don't buy h-10 pro battery powered. Doesn't do great for price
@@tonymckay9031 I haven't been happy with all the false alarms of the hsl8, fieldpiece just sent me a slr2 infrared to try out, I just tested it against my h10 pro, the slr2 is not as sensitive at r22 as the pro, but it did pick up the 404a and 134a after waiting a fews minutes longer after cracking the bottle just a little bit. I can't wait to try it in a real world test. I'll let everyone know what I found out.
@@HVACRSurvival great! Appreciate that.. I just got my hand on a 120v only h-10g that I'm going to try replacing the sensor on. Would definitely want to hear how you feel about the infrared fieldpiece. Thanks!
@@HVACRSurvival How did you end up liking the infrared srl2? Are you still using it?