Thanks for sharing this video. In Germany price for 1 Liter Red Diesel is 1,21 € = 1.28 US Dollar = 1.74 CA Dollar. Running this heater is still cheaper than LPG or electricity. If you run this diesel heater in alpine mode it saves a lot more fuel. I bought my Chinese diesel heater in case of having a blackout this winter. I like it a lot, it is cheap and produce nice dry heat. Greetings from Germany and stay safe 👋
@@bertjesklotepino yes we still have red diesel. But it costs almost as much as the normal diesel. It is available in 25 liter canisters at some petrol stations. But it only costs 3 cents less than the normal car diesel. If you want it cheaper you have to pre-order. at least 500 liters. They will then be delivered to your home. then costs approx. 1.36 euros per last one. I live in the south of Germany, near Stuttgart.
Hi, I left a comment on your strip down video. If you want to mix the waste oil with another fuel, stick to diesel or kerosene. And forget about Alpine mode it will never reach temperatures to burn the oil efficiently. Petrol/gas is far too combustible and will not give you the output due to its composition when ignited. Try oil alone and run it at its highest temp and fan settings every use to clean the chamber. 👍👍👍
Great information thank you ! in many other peoples videos it’s not mentioned that I have yet to hear …but myself being a truck driver for 30 years knowing somewhat about diesel fuel ..you will get a better burn with your diesel when it is warm or even hot temperatures and I’m saying the raw diesel itself that’s in the tank before it goes in through the heater something to possibly consider
First THANK YOU yes this is interesting and informative. I am in South Central PA. I have only natural gas heat in a 1960s house. Even with mild weather and using wick style kerosene heaters our natural gas bill went from 50 bucks a month normally to 80!! I onow Europe has it worse but costs are hitting hard. I bought a heater and after some problems with powersupplys and venting hope to have it helping heating the house with my old oil soon.
I have a similar setup, I find reducing air flow into heat exchanger with choke valve increases burner temperature. Totally agree that the burner temperature needs to be as high as possible. Oil is metered through a three way gas flow valve which enables precise adjustment when I notice a change in chamber temperature and combustion sound.. May post a video soon.
I really appreciate your effort in testing waste oil. I've subscribed to see the results. I am curious as to how well it heats I'm entertaining the idea of getting the 8kw version to heat my garage.
Kerosene is fairly cheap in the UK at around £0.93pence per litre, when bought in larger quantities (Usually for big oil tanks to be used for houses on the countryside using oil boilers) Red diesel is slightly higher at around £1.05-£1.10 per litre. Is there more of a benefit mixing with kerosene or petrol rather than just diesel? Or is this just to find some other alternatives? Thanks for the vids, definitely the most informative on this topic, no bs and finally someone that doesn't do one test and dismiss it 👍
This is more for the on-lookers than you Storm, but might still help explain why Gasoline causes the rumble noise. If you take a match to Gas, odds are it will flame up cause it has a much lower flash point (just like certain woods start easier in a wood stove than other types of wood, assuming both were properly seasoned), where diesel usually needs high compression, such as in engines, cause it's flash point is way the heck up there so takes a LOT more to make it ignite and a match in most cases won't do a thing to ignite the diesel. So try to think of it as a backfire or engine knock effect. Now to try and answer the biosdiesel question below...
I'd say it has to do with the low flash point of petrol quicker burn equates to less heat. Diesel and K1, oil etc take longer to burn imparting more BTUs on the heat exchanger. It's just ratio to your readily available oil. Oil to fuel. Great videos. I'm not convinced to buy one yet but I just burn my waste oil on brush.
Been thinking about your endeaver you have taken on ,the injestion of force air with your battery powered blower. A low cfm (variable speed) to control the burn chamber temperature .Just a suggestion, do as you like .Press on , i like it.
The reason why gas makes that noise is that it burns much more rapidly than oil / diesel. It gets injected in pulses, burns up almost instantly, consumes all of the fuel and air in the chamber and flames out momentarily. It will also cause more burn chambre pressure when turning rapidly... Then when it has enough fuel and air again, it lights back up. Diesel burns more slowly and continues at a more steady rate.
back when i filtered veg oil for running my car I used a Tam 105 electric pump and two rows of swimming pool filters to taske the oil down to 5 micron filtration.
Hi there, I was wondering if the "altitude" setting can be used to somehow save fuel. I live at about 2100ft and IDK about what this setting is about. Still waiting for my unit that's coming today, so I can start some testing... ty and greetings from Sicilia, Italy! :)
Any chance that the fuel needs heated before it's pumped? I assume the pump is what is used to control the fuel flow, is there a chance the pump, depending on fuel blend, is fighting viscosity? Obviously too much heat would be bad for the pump, but perhaps a bit of heat before the pump could help. Heating the fuel after the pump is beneficial, but I'm definitely curious about before the pump.
Try boiling water as a cleaner! Its cheap, readily available, safe(mostly) , and is biodegradable. It may take a couple tries, but the thermal shock does a great job of loosening carbon deposits.
2 things I know from burning 'black diesel' in engines, you want to avoid synthetics. So you burning 5w-20 and 5w-40 those are both synthetic oils. For the little bit it'll use, I'd try some cheap ass Dino oil from Walmart or something. Second thing is, biodiesel is roughly 80% 'veg' oil, a calculated concentration of 20% methoxide (methanol and potassium hydroxide) that's reacted at temperature with agitation to produce biodiesel and heavy thick glycerine. Glycerine is drained off, and bio gets filtered through an ion exchange resin. I've run it in diesel torpedo heaters, but it doesn't like cold starts. Once warm it's fine, but with less btu's than diesel... By 15-20%
I would like to see you try a 70/30 blend of used vegetable oil and kerosene (heated). I've heard there's some waste when using the methanol method,biofuel??
Do you think liquid oil is getting into the hot combustion chamber and turning into the gunk? Perhaps the atomizer can’t vaporize the heavier fuels fast enough in stock form.
Hydrolic oil will work too, huh? I just so happen to have a few heavy equipment places around me that I may need to talk to once mines up and running... im trying to run straight up free fuel in mine. I've still not quite saved enough up to get one. Hopefully soon though cuz bills are jumping up already. I found a good deal on one, only $85+ shipping for the non-allinone version. I should be able to save up enough and get it as a late Christmas gift to myself.
Hydraulic oil would have less additives maybe less deposits I'm thinking. My buddy gave me a pail of unused aw 20 and I poured the whole thing in the fuel tank of my pre emmisions diesel pickup years ago and ran it. You could smell it in the exhaust but it ate it happily
The issue with all lube oils is that while Kerosene and diesel are 100% distillates so they burn cleanly, lube oil is about 50;50 distillates and additives and the additives contain lots of ash forming elements. Waste lube oil burns well in drip feed burners usually made of iron and containing more cast iron (brake drums or discs seem popular). Just consider the value of having a diesel burning heater stop working every month when it's below freezing outside (and inside). How much waste lube can you really use before the cleaning interval shortens? How much money would that save vs cost of cleaning/gaskets/meshes etc
Biodiesel is a reaction product with filtered "chip fat" (waste cooking oil) with sodium methoxide (methanol solution of sodium hydroxide). It has to be made right the fats must be reacted with the methoxide, then separated and the product oils separated and decanted off. then you have to check it's about neutral pH before it eats the tank and burner. Waste oils are usually recycled by big frying companies (Macdonalds make their own waste oil into biodiesel for their own trucks in the UK. No-one just gives their used oil away they now expect to sell it.
try to find way to adjust voltage to glow plug , do few experiments conect directly to 12v suply glow plug and attach blower to intake its easily ignite pure waist oil while fule pump prime mode on. But when heater start glow plug only gets 8.5v and when its fully on voltage drop and its not enaught for oil its start chocing.
i would only put a little gas in if i had no additive or kerosene... the machine runs the best when the air intake is bringing in cold air from outside cabin keeping engine as cool as possible, bringing in warm air will cause more soot
hay if you heat the use veg oil up it get thinner-the fat will thin out to /use the heat off the diesel exhaust -wrap copper tubing around the exhaust tube an wrap exhaust wrap around that-i have not tryed it but i heard heating the veg oil works/an used motor oil run the oil through a toilet paper filter/that will clean the used motor oil /probly use 1/2 diesel an 1/2 used oil/you are on the right track/maybe use air from outside the building-more oxygen in it/it should burn hotter in the burn chamber/ok/thanks much
The problem with just mixing waste oil with diesel/kerosene is waste oil does not burn/ignite as quick as straight diesel. So mixing it 50/50 or 60/40 etc you just made your fuel less ignitable/burnable. Get a woodstove going hot hot. Squirt some engine oil what’s it do? It burns but burns slow. Now try that with diesel. It will flare right up watch your eye brows!! 😂 Now try it with gas. It will really flare up. So in my opinion you need more gas. Everyone is terrified to burn more gas in these things it seems. The other thing is filtering waste oil even down to 1 micron you are still going to have all that sludge to burn and I think that is what accumulates in the burn chamber. The only way to filter waste oil is with a centrifuge. It will get rid of all that sludge if filtered right. To filter waste oil it needs to be hot just like when it runs in your engine. I ran Black deisel and always filtered it hot I just put it in a big stainless pot on my woodstove to heated it up. Heating the waste oil before it is burned like you did in other vids will help if you got the oil hot enough. As for your dog what a cute little critter. Reminds me of my dog when she was a pup (Chocolate lab/German pointer) they are ball crazy always wanting to play 24/7. They appear to be kind gentle dogs and they are those labs but when you are gone they often turn into a pitbull if someone tries to get into your house. My dog was as sweet as can be but one time my neighbour came to borrow my garden hose while I was away at work, and my dog was in my motorhome because I was doing renovations to my house so she would stay in there while I was at work, and there was just a short gap between the motorhome and another vehicle in my driveway and he had to squeeze through there. Well he got through, but on the way back out, my dog would not let them him pass. I had the window open for the dog and she ripped open the screen and would not let him buy he had to hop over the fence.😂
so what is your latest formula? waiting for my heater to arrive and thinking of using 10% waste oil, 5% gas and 85% red diesel. hoping not to have to clean out to often (once a year in the summer would be ideal). btw, do you have a video on your waste oil prefiltering? great video and thanks for giving your time. 🙂
That is probably very safe . I am at 25% waste oil. I blew out the burn and couldn’t relight the burner found the glow plug was probably the cause . It wasn’t awe full so I think 10 to 15% will be magic number to keep long clean cycles like 2 weeks maybe even month possibly. We shall see . But report your findings if you will .
Burning different oils I have noticed mesh around the plug gets glazed over and starts giving a lot of trouble burning so fuel should stay thinner and clean to make a diesel heater burn waste oil or any other type of oil just doesn't work except if a blend is close to diesel without additives.
Hey Storm...DO NOT USE oven cleaner inside the chamber as it is aluminum alloy, and oven cleaner DISSOLVES aluminum. Hope you see this before you try it. Great videos, thanks.
@@Storman77 Glad to hear that! Apparently, the best cleaner for aluminum is a 1:1 ratio of white vinegar and water, which gives a mildly acidic solution. Dissolves the lime in my electric kettle fine, so it's a good bet for these, too. All the best!
I was gonna scream that, but good you saw that comment before you tried. With sodium hydroxide products (which most of the aggressive oven cleaners do contain) in contact with aluminium it even gets worse than dissolving. It produces hydrogen gas which aluminium alloy absorbs and gets weaker in the process. That may even be a cause of cracks and this is why we shouldn’t put aluminium pots or pans in a dishwasher.
So air density or oxygen per day sq inch would drop with warmer air . Technically as another member mention colder outside air would help which might be true . Maybe we need to test that lol . Thanks you made another check mark on my list lmao
@@Storman77 i think the oxygen drop is marginal compared to altitude, otherwise we would feel it driving our cars. Old diesel engines love heat, not cold. oil just burns better when hot.
I wondering about mixture with 50% of diesel + 40% waste oil + 10% of gasoline, would it be necessary to clean it every month? Another question is how often you have to clean it if you only running on diesel as manufacturer says? Thank you for your time to explain for us all this 👍👍.
gas vaporizes very fast thus needs more oxygen to make the combustion efficient. also gas does not burn as hot as diesel or oil. oil will burn the hottest. thus your temp burning higher.
it is odd that your seeing lower temps because the waste oil has more btu's than diesel, must be the tune, or maybe your exhaust is to long(which can be corrected for with the custom settings) which will be a problem because we cant get into the custom settings. temps i see are, without alpine mode 160-210C with alpine mode on about 130-180C, i wonder if your temps just arent high enough.
Motor oil is formulated not to burn, and its a longer chain carbon molecule. I’m guessing 10 percent waste oil might be the highest usable concentration.
Maybe soot is insulating the inside of the heat exchanger and all the heat is just going out the exhaust. He said temps went up after he gave it a blowjob with the Milwaukee
I’m totally gonna video how bad it gets . I tried and wasn’t very successful. Maybe needed to get hotter 😓. I’ll try that next time before I over cleaner the shit out if it . Works great on atomizing port for sure
so ive been running mine for 5 years, recently running on used oil, having to chisel out the build up daily, the solution for me was to lift the intake end up. problem solved 3 days running none stop on lowest and highest setting, no build up at all, no smell, no smoke
kerosene will keep it cleaner than gas... just cut the gas out of the mix..i use a little gas but it is not needed.. if you want to keep it clean use Diesel Power Service or just some Stabil fuel stabilizer the stuff made for gas is fine and you can get it at walmart cheap. STABIL WAS USED FOR GAS AND DIESEL AT ONE POINT THEY CHANGED THE LABEL to gas only and made a Diesel version. all they did was add an antimicrobial addidtive to the stuff and market it as diesel only
Here In Scotland Kerosene is 20 UK pence cheaper per liter than red Diesel at my supplier not easy to find in small amounts. I'm useing 90% Kerosene 10% diesel for pump lube. seems OK at moment
I always used kerosene no mix in my heater and my son uses it in his two heaters never any issues in over five years there is nothing else cheaper £1.00 per ltr and I keep saying a spare pump will cost me £10.00 if I need one but never have. My heater is running 24/7 now in freezing winter so I'm going through a 20ltr a week in my home.
@@BS-ql5nl Thanks for that, the prices you are paying are much cheaper than i am paying close to Edinburgh. do you buy in a bulk tank or in small amounts. 2 weeks ago the price was £130ltr +4% vat kersene £1.50ltr +4% vat red derv I get the feeling i'm getting done
@@chrisharrell2449 I go to the filling station at the ⛽ pump price 99.9 pence ltr buying from the tanker to fill my kerosene home heating is slightly cheaper around 85 pence ltr but I don't touch my 1, 200 ltr tank I keep that for the boiler to heat the water and rads in the mornings.
Kerosene (any number), gas oil, diesel (any number) mean different things, dependent on where you live. It would be far better to quote the boiling range, fraction - or, as more usually the redwood viscosity scale. In the UK, Diesel is around 35s Redwood, Kerosene (used as/called heating oil) is 28s R. There are other more volatile kerosene fractions which are more expensive (with less ‘lubricity’ if a more volatile fraction. Gas (petrol) is taxed to the hilt (around 50p for excise duty and 20% on the combined cost and duty. Derv (diesel for road vehicles) is taxed the same. That makes them ridiculously expensive to burn for heat! Hydraulic oil is a ‘nothing special’ oil and contains anti-frothing additives (only?), but it is sold in different viscosities ISO32 is a popular example. When I say ‘nothing special’ it does not mean ‘low quality’. I have no intention whatsoever, to add petrol to anything fed to my heaters. As there is loads of lubricity, even in waste oil, I would suggest you should only thin the oil with the cheapest kerosene (heating oil) you can obtain. I reckon that around 10% waste oil (properly filtered - to low or sub-micron quality) thinned with kerosene would likely be the best option available - for a relatively clean burn and trouble-free operation. Attempting too much, initially, is a waste of time and effort. Better to start with minimum waste oil and gradually increase the proportion of clean waste oil until possible operational problems. Then reduce and run confidently on (slightly) less waste oil mixtures. My reasons for this suggestion? There is no point in the overall cost exceeding that of bought-in fuel; you are currently simply guessing; you are swayed by a lot of posters who likely do not consider the cost or understand how these heaters work. You are altering the mix in an unscientific manner (changing more than a single parameter at a time). Likely more than half of the comments are from those that don’t actually have a clue. Claims, by unknown posters, are often exaggerated. These cheap chinese heaters are not the most consistent of products - neither of mine are in accordance with the specifications. Your controller and motherboards are not able to be re-programmed like some of the more expensive combinations. Burning at least a small amount of waste oil, effectively, is a bonus. Aiming for the maximum amount is ludicrous, IMO. ‘Walk before you run’ is an age-old adage, where trying out things such as this are concerned. Is this enough reasons why?
Would second this but with you using your red diesel as it's cheaper than Kerosene in canada. So you'll not save what you hoped to but cleaning that thing every day is a PITA. So see how you go with 10%/90% mix. Could increase that in small increments if you don't have any issues. Oh, please don't put the burner in the oven.
@@leighreid5480 Leigh, In the UK, red diesel is 35s Redwood, now exactly (I think) the same as DERV (Diesel Engine Road Vehicle) but with no excise duty and only 5% VAT (if bought in quantity (over 200l?) - but may not be quite as low in Sulphur content). Kerosene 28sR is the usual boiler/furnace fuel for domestic central heating, etc. Many in the UK burn only this fraction with their CDHs - it has sufficient lubricity (apparently) to avoid wearing out the fuel pump. The more volatile fraction of Kerosene would most definitely cause premature pump wear, unless some lubricant were added. UK Kerosene (28sR) may well be the same as furnace oil in Ca. Our Kerosene is clearly far more mobile than diesel, so a sufficient dilution using Kerosene could well finish at much the same viscosity as 100% diesel. This lighter fraction contains slightly less available energy per unit volume, so the waste oil will likely return the energy content to (or towards) that of diesel.
None the less the atomiser will give trouble burning oil it's not ment to burn and glazing starts no high temperature burn will burn it clean which comes to kerosene burns very hot and clean and I don't have strip it down to clear out soot that soon gather with oil mixtures been there and tried it.
The only way this makes sense is if you can run pure waste oil or nearly pure waste oil. I wouldn’t even bother unless you can use atleast 90% waste oil.
Why aren’t you tuning the fuel air mixture settings? I can’t think of one reason why you’d deliberately handicap yourself by using presets instead of choosing your own settings
You can and it does work, but sadly can have side effects, clogging of the atomizer, (granted it takes a few months), sout build up and eventually the rumbling Storm was explaining with his heater. We went throught this ourself and now try to find "normal' diesel and will only use bio as a last resort. I think David Mclucky or John mentioned the affects of bio, sorry can't remember Johns full channel name, will update if I can find it.
@@brianj9262 I think you are right with mixture I am using but as we increase the wmo % may come in handy . I know if we do biodiesel it will be a must .
If that's Celsius I'm surprised it's not shutting down in overheat. The 2kw one in my truck i think the hottest I've seen was about 180°c. The bigger 5kw one I think I've seen 160°C on outside cold air. I ran it at about -5° OAT and it was putting out about 150
Today i tried a mixture 20% waste oil 80% diesel preheated with a 2 mt copper coil made around exhaust, temperature exiting the coil was about 80 celcius and nothing still doesnt work, the last option is to install the 3 way valve and start the heater on diesel and when the chamber is hot turn to the mixture.
Oh it won’t start . Yeah you must start on diesel . I have an update I am down . Fuel oil is dripping out of my intake so I shut unit down . Got a new unit in tomorrow. Bush of parts coming to repair this unit
@@triplex0076 I am not sure but I have blue gasket maker . I think it’s blowing out the intake side of the burner tube which is in the intake side . Still a big enough problem that I won’t trust it . Till I open and fix it. But I need my parts first
@@Storman77 this burners are strange, yesterday i was running it the whole day on h6 with 15% oil and the rest diesel, I opened it this morning and it was clean. This morning I started it on 20% oil and 3 hours later it went off, all clogged again 🤬
I just searched prophet Google for kerosene. It looks like we don't get any kerosene here in Germany. I will ask that dude who delivers my red diesel. Do you tried to burn organic fat for example melted pork fat or something like that?
@@englishrupe01 paraffin oil might be one fraction of kerosene, but may not be the same as kerosene for central heating boilers. The viscosity is important. The heating oil fraction is 28s Redwood. These mainly ‘ane’ fractions are a mixture of hydrocarbons with a smallish range of carbon chain length, but the same volatility can be achieved with differing percentages of individual hydrocarbons, within the range. These heaters are ‘designed’ to run on gas oil (diesel, DERV, red diesel [in the UK]), not the kerosene fraction - even though many do use the lighter fraction😮. Do remember that some other categories of chemicals are blended to provide products for specific uses (petrol/gasoline contains cyclic hydrocarbons as well as straight chain - or even branched chain - hydrocarbons, plus other additives to improve combustion in engines). While the Redwood scale is still quoted for these fractions, the modern viscosity unit is the CentiStoke - because it is a better means for modern machines and the SI system of units adopted by most of the world in scientific and engineering fields.😅 These fractions can have different names in other domains. The actual carbon chain lengths in each fraction overlap with adjacent fractions. Crude oil from different sources can provide different fractions - as well as cracking streams refineries, which are engineered to provide the desired final product, can alter the actual make-up of these products.
Im seeing people add 1 cup of gas to a gallon of waste oil then mix 50-50 anybody try that with good results. I know the old timers add gas to make no 1
Question lol, watched your vid on Wheeling In Northern Ontario, fantastic rock climbing and drone footage. Where was that place and where are you from I'm in Longpiont Ont
@@operationdarktolight4321 You cannot get agricultural diesel if you dont have a proper license, the cheapest diesel you can get is red diesel for heating at 1.74 euro which is like 8c cheaper than car diesel. You cannot buy like 20L of heating diesel, there is no place like a petrol station, they come with trucks and fill up the big tank at the house
I wish, if I had the room I would 100% make one. I am considering making an outdoor decorative drip oil fireplace to enjoy out in the deck on cold evenings
@@Storman77 I don't think so it is on at the moment as we have Sub-Zero temperatures here in Scotland . I wanted to send a photo I don't think RUclips will let me
i have also a 5 kw heater i put there 50% wast ail and 50% gaisoline in it its burns bur in the air hose after a whyle i get ther oil in it i burn it in alpine mode do sombody know what is wrong ??
Thanks for sharing this video. In Germany price for 1 Liter Red Diesel is 1,21 € = 1.28 US Dollar = 1.74 CA Dollar. Running this heater is still cheaper than LPG or electricity. If you run this diesel heater in alpine mode it saves a lot more fuel. I bought my Chinese diesel heater in case of having a blackout this winter. I like it a lot, it is cheap and produce nice dry heat. Greetings from Germany and stay safe 👋
Diesel is $4.99 gallon here on the East Coast. We are all in this together. It's not just Europe. It's the WEF and globalist as always.
so you guys still have red diesel in Germany?????
Here in the Netherlands you cant get it anymore.
@@bertjesklotepino yes we still have red diesel. But it costs almost as much as the normal diesel. It is available in 25 liter canisters at some petrol stations. But it only costs 3 cents less than the normal car diesel. If you want it cheaper you have to pre-order. at least 500 liters. They will then be delivered to your home. then costs approx. 1.36 euros per last one. I live in the south of Germany, near Stuttgart.
Hi, I left a comment on your strip down video.
If you want to mix the waste oil with another fuel, stick to diesel or kerosene.
And forget about Alpine mode it will never reach temperatures to burn the oil efficiently.
Petrol/gas is far too combustible and will not give you the output due to its composition when ignited. Try oil alone and run it at its highest temp and fan settings every use to clean the chamber.
👍👍👍
Great information thank you ! in many other peoples videos it’s not mentioned that I have yet to hear …but myself being a truck driver for 30 years knowing somewhat about diesel fuel ..you will get a better burn with your diesel when it is warm or even hot temperatures and I’m saying the raw diesel itself that’s in the tank before it goes in through the heater something to possibly consider
First THANK YOU yes this is interesting and informative. I am in South Central PA. I have only natural gas heat in a 1960s house. Even with mild weather and using wick style kerosene heaters our natural gas bill went from 50 bucks a month normally to 80!! I onow Europe has it worse but costs are hitting hard. I bought a heater and after some problems with powersupplys and venting hope to have it helping heating the house with my old oil soon.
Thanks for all your help It´s getting cold and nasty up here in Sweden now.
Thanks for the update.
I have a similar setup, I find reducing air flow into heat exchanger with choke valve increases burner temperature. Totally agree that the burner temperature needs to be as high as possible. Oil is metered through a three way gas flow valve which enables precise adjustment when I notice a change in chamber temperature and combustion sound.. May post a video soon.
I really appreciate your effort in testing waste oil. I've subscribed to see the results. I am curious as to how well it heats I'm entertaining the idea of getting the 8kw version to heat my garage.
5 and 8 are the same
Kerosene is fairly cheap in the UK at around £0.93pence per litre, when bought in larger quantities (Usually for big oil tanks to be used for houses on the countryside using oil boilers) Red diesel is slightly higher at around £1.05-£1.10 per litre. Is there more of a benefit mixing with kerosene or petrol rather than just diesel? Or is this just to find some other alternatives? Thanks for the vids, definitely the most informative on this topic, no bs and finally someone that doesn't do one test and dismiss it 👍
This is more for the on-lookers than you Storm, but might still help explain why Gasoline causes the rumble noise. If you take a match to Gas, odds are it will flame up cause it has a much lower flash point (just like certain woods start easier in a wood stove than other types of wood, assuming both were properly seasoned), where diesel usually needs high compression, such as in engines, cause it's flash point is way the heck up there so takes a LOT more to make it ignite and a match in most cases won't do a thing to ignite the diesel. So try to think of it as a backfire or engine knock effect. Now to try and answer the biosdiesel question below...
great info! subscribed
Hi there thanks for sharing . I'm using 50% waste oil and 50% transformer oil
I'd say it has to do with the low flash point of petrol quicker burn equates to less heat. Diesel and K1, oil etc take longer to burn imparting more BTUs on the heat exchanger.
It's just ratio to your readily available oil. Oil to fuel. Great videos. I'm not convinced to buy one yet but I just burn my waste oil on brush.
Been thinking about your endeaver you have taken on ,the injestion of force air with your battery powered blower. A low cfm (variable speed) to control the burn chamber temperature .Just a suggestion, do as you like .Press on , i like it.
The reason why gas makes that noise is that it burns much more rapidly than oil / diesel. It gets injected in pulses, burns up almost instantly, consumes all of the fuel and air in the chamber and flames out momentarily. It will also cause more burn chambre pressure when turning rapidly... Then when it has enough fuel and air again, it lights back up. Diesel burns more slowly and continues at a more steady rate.
back when i filtered veg oil for running my car I used a Tam 105 electric pump and two rows of swimming pool filters to taske the oil down to 5 micron filtration.
Hi there, I was wondering if the "altitude" setting can be used to somehow save fuel.
I live at about 2100ft and IDK about what this setting is about. Still waiting for my unit that's coming today, so I can start some testing... ty and greetings from Sicilia, Italy! :)
That noise you describe also happens above 5000 feet(1524 meters). Either not enough oxygen or too rich.
Any chance that the fuel needs heated before it's pumped? I assume the pump is what is used to control the fuel flow, is there a chance the pump, depending on fuel blend, is fighting viscosity? Obviously too much heat would be bad for the pump, but perhaps a bit of heat before the pump could help. Heating the fuel after the pump is beneficial, but I'm definitely curious about before the pump.
@Storm Norm Leduc just use industrial filterbags cost around 6dollar for 2 micron huge 20l filter bag
Try boiling water as a cleaner! Its cheap, readily available, safe(mostly) , and is biodegradable. It may take a couple tries, but the thermal shock does a great job of loosening carbon deposits.
2 things
I know from burning 'black diesel' in engines, you want to avoid synthetics. So you burning 5w-20 and 5w-40 those are both synthetic oils. For the little bit it'll use, I'd try some cheap ass Dino oil from Walmart or something.
Second thing is, biodiesel is roughly 80% 'veg' oil, a calculated concentration of 20% methoxide (methanol and potassium hydroxide) that's reacted at temperature with agitation to produce biodiesel and heavy thick glycerine. Glycerine is drained off, and bio gets filtered through an ion exchange resin. I've run it in diesel torpedo heaters, but it doesn't like cold starts. Once warm it's fine, but with less btu's than diesel... By 15-20%
I was going here to say this you couldn't have said it better
I would like to see you try a 70/30 blend of used vegetable oil and kerosene (heated). I've heard there's some waste when using the methanol method,biofuel??
Would also like to see a 70/30 Diesel/oil burn a big hi from the UK
When adding gasoline maybe is good to blow air in the intake with a fan (turbo like). I think it will provide the surplus of air needed.
Do you think liquid oil is getting into the hot combustion chamber and turning into the gunk? Perhaps the atomizer can’t vaporize the heavier fuels fast enough in stock form.
Hydrolic oil will work too, huh? I just so happen to have a few heavy equipment places around me that I may need to talk to once mines up and running... im trying to run straight up free fuel in mine. I've still not quite saved enough up to get one. Hopefully soon though cuz bills are jumping up already. I found a good deal on one, only $85+ shipping for the non-allinone version. I should be able to save up enough and get it as a late Christmas gift to myself.
Hydraulic oil would have less additives maybe less deposits I'm thinking. My buddy gave me a pail of unused aw 20 and I poured the whole thing in the fuel tank of my pre emmisions diesel pickup years ago and ran it. You could smell it in the exhaust but it ate it happily
The issue with all lube oils is that while Kerosene and diesel are 100% distillates so they burn cleanly, lube oil is about 50;50 distillates and additives and the additives contain lots of ash forming elements.
Waste lube oil burns well in drip feed burners usually made of iron and containing more cast iron (brake drums or discs seem popular).
Just consider the value of having a diesel burning heater stop working every month when it's below freezing outside (and inside). How much waste lube can you really use before the cleaning interval shortens? How much money would that save vs cost of cleaning/gaskets/meshes etc
Biodiesel is a reaction product with filtered "chip fat" (waste cooking oil) with sodium methoxide (methanol solution of sodium hydroxide). It has to be made right the fats must be reacted with the methoxide, then separated and the product oils separated and decanted off. then you have to check it's about neutral pH before it eats the tank and burner.
Waste oils are usually recycled by big frying companies (Macdonalds make their own waste oil into biodiesel for their own trucks in the UK. No-one just gives their used oil away they now expect to sell it.
Gas burns way faster. That might be the poof noise. Also probably creates more velocity which would creates a suction on the intake. Just a theory.
try to find way to adjust voltage to glow plug , do few experiments conect directly to 12v suply glow plug and attach blower to intake its easily ignite pure waist oil while fule pump prime mode on. But when heater start glow plug only gets 8.5v and when its fully on voltage drop and its not enaught for oil its start chocing.
Can you run straight heating oil in these? It's a bit cheaper here than diesel.
Absolutely you can
i would only put a little gas in if i had no additive or kerosene... the machine runs the best when the air intake is bringing in cold air from outside cabin keeping engine as cool as possible, bringing in warm air will cause more soot
hay if you heat the use veg oil up it get thinner-the fat will thin out to /use the heat off the diesel exhaust -wrap copper tubing around the exhaust tube an wrap exhaust wrap around that-i have not tryed it but i heard heating the veg oil works/an used motor oil run the oil through a toilet paper filter/that will clean the used motor oil /probly use 1/2 diesel an 1/2 used oil/you are on the right track/maybe use air from outside the building-more oxygen in it/it should burn hotter in the burn chamber/ok/thanks much
The problem with just mixing waste oil with diesel/kerosene is waste oil does not burn/ignite as quick as straight diesel.
So mixing it 50/50 or 60/40 etc you just made your fuel less ignitable/burnable.
Get a woodstove going hot hot. Squirt some engine oil what’s it do? It burns but burns slow. Now try that with diesel. It will flare right up watch your eye brows!! 😂
Now try it with gas. It will really flare up. So in my opinion you need more gas. Everyone is terrified to burn more gas in these things it seems.
The other thing is filtering waste oil even down to 1 micron you are still going to have all that sludge to burn and I think that is what accumulates in the burn chamber.
The only way to filter waste oil is with a centrifuge. It will get rid of all that sludge if filtered right.
To filter waste oil it needs to be hot just like when it runs in your engine.
I ran Black deisel and always filtered it hot I just put it in a big stainless pot on my woodstove to heated it up.
Heating the waste oil before it is burned like you did in other vids will help if you got the oil hot enough.
As for your dog what a cute little critter. Reminds me of my dog when she was a pup (Chocolate lab/German pointer) they are ball crazy always wanting to play 24/7.
They appear to be kind gentle dogs and they are those labs but when you are gone they often turn into a pitbull if someone tries to get into your house.
My dog was as sweet as can be but one time my neighbour came to borrow my garden hose while I was away at work, and my dog was in my motorhome because I was doing renovations to my house so she would stay in there while I was at work, and there was just a short gap between the motorhome and another vehicle in my driveway and he had to squeeze through there. Well he got through, but on the way back out, my dog would not let them him pass. I had the window open for the dog and she ripped open the screen and would not let him buy he had to hop over the fence.😂
so what is your latest formula? waiting for my heater to arrive and thinking of using 10% waste oil, 5% gas and 85% red diesel. hoping not to have to clean out to often (once a year in the summer would be ideal). btw, do you have a video on your waste oil prefiltering? great video and thanks for giving your time. 🙂
That is probably very safe . I am at 25% waste oil. I blew out the burn and couldn’t relight the burner found the glow plug was probably the cause . It wasn’t awe full so I think 10 to 15% will be magic number to keep long clean cycles like 2 weeks maybe even month possibly. We shall see . But report your findings if you will .
in Denmark kerosene is 3-4dollar/euro a liter waste vegetableoil 60cents :)
Kerosene isn’t that easy to get in UK so waste oil and diesel are preferred fuels if we can get a good recipe to burn it.
Burning different oils I have noticed mesh around the plug gets glazed over and starts giving a lot of trouble burning so fuel should stay thinner and clean to make a diesel heater burn waste oil or any other type of oil just doesn't work except if a blend is close to diesel without additives.
Hey Storm...DO NOT USE oven cleaner inside the chamber as it is aluminum alloy, and oven cleaner DISSOLVES aluminum. Hope you see this before you try it. Great videos, thanks.
Oh god thanks 🙏 I did see this first
@@Storman77 Glad to hear that! Apparently, the best cleaner for aluminum is a 1:1 ratio of white vinegar and water, which gives a mildly acidic solution. Dissolves the lime in my electric kettle fine, so it's a good bet for these, too. All the best!
I was gonna scream that, but good you saw that comment before you tried. With sodium hydroxide products (which most of the aggressive oven cleaners do contain) in contact with aluminium it even gets worse than dissolving. It produces hydrogen gas which aluminium alloy absorbs and gets weaker in the process. That may even be a cause of cracks and this is why we shouldn’t put aluminium pots or pans in a dishwasher.
@@lunaak Wow....thanks for the info. I didn't know about the hydrogen or weakening the alloy. Makes sense, though.
19:00 why not take the combustion airintake and put infront so it sucks warm air. this should raise the temp of the unit
So air density or oxygen per day sq inch would drop with warmer air . Technically as another member mention colder outside air would help which might be true . Maybe we need to test that lol . Thanks you made another check mark on my list lmao
@@Storman77 i think the oxygen drop is marginal compared to altitude, otherwise we would feel it driving our cars. Old diesel engines love heat, not cold. oil just burns better when hot.
After viewing several videos I found that the hz reading is the fuel pump pressure and a careful balance needs to be achieved
I wondering about mixture with 50% of diesel + 40% waste oil + 10% of gasoline, would it be necessary to clean it every month? Another question is how often you have to clean it if you only running on diesel as manufacturer says? Thank you for your time to explain for us all this 👍👍.
Hi can you make a video about controller settings please.Thank you for your help us with your videos .
David McLuckie has done this already.
You gotta check him out. He has tested many mixtures.
Luv that guy but he does test mixture but not long term use .
gas vaporizes very fast thus needs more oxygen to make the combustion efficient. also gas does not burn as hot as diesel or oil. oil will burn the hottest. thus your temp burning higher.
it is odd that your seeing lower temps because the waste oil has more btu's than diesel, must be the tune, or maybe your exhaust is to long(which can be corrected for with the custom settings) which will be a problem because we cant get into the custom settings. temps i see are, without alpine mode 160-210C with alpine mode on about 130-180C, i wonder if your temps just arent high enough.
Motor oil is formulated not to burn, and its a longer chain carbon molecule. I’m guessing 10 percent waste oil might be the highest usable concentration.
Well I am now off alpine mode and reaching 208 to 210 deg pretty steady. Temps where an issue for sure
Maybe soot is insulating the inside of the heat exchanger and all the heat is just going out the exhaust. He said temps went up after he gave it a blowjob with the Milwaukee
23:00 just torch the burn chamber and the mesh preheaterhole with gas burner untill redhot glowing works great
I’m totally gonna video how bad it gets . I tried and wasn’t very successful. Maybe needed to get hotter 😓. I’ll try that next time before I over cleaner the shit out if it . Works great on atomizing port for sure
@@Storman77 it smokes for a while before getting red hot.
At vevor they dont know as they are just drop seller's.
I think that most of your troubles are because your not running it on full, wouldn't you be better getting a 3kw heater if it gets too hot?
so ive been running mine for 5 years, recently running on used oil, having to chisel out the build up daily, the solution for me was to lift the intake end up. problem solved 3 days running none stop on lowest and highest setting, no build up at all, no smell, no smoke
What exactly do you mean by lift the intake end up ? Thanks
please explain what you mean by "lift the intake end up" and thank you
@Ribbie Knowles see question pls
@poordrive 👆🏼
I think he mean tip it so the combustion chamber is sloped down, tilted. Not level, intake end higher than combustion chamber.
kerosene will keep it cleaner than gas... just cut the gas out of the mix..i use a little gas but it is not needed.. if you want to keep it clean use Diesel Power Service or just some Stabil fuel stabilizer the stuff made for gas is fine and you can get it at walmart cheap. STABIL WAS USED FOR GAS AND DIESEL AT ONE POINT THEY CHANGED THE LABEL to gas only and made a Diesel version. all they did was add an antimicrobial addidtive to the stuff and market it as diesel only
Here In Scotland Kerosene is 20 UK pence cheaper per liter than red Diesel at my supplier not easy to find in small amounts. I'm useing 90% Kerosene 10% diesel for pump lube. seems OK at moment
I wonder if two stroke oil would be cheaper than the 10% diesel?
I always used kerosene no mix in my heater and my son uses it in his two heaters never any issues in over five years there is nothing else cheaper £1.00 per ltr and I keep saying a spare pump will cost me £10.00 if I need one but never have. My heater is running 24/7 now in freezing winter so I'm going through a 20ltr a week in my home.
@@BS-ql5nl Thanks for that, the prices you are paying are much cheaper than i am paying close to Edinburgh. do you buy in a bulk tank or in small amounts. 2 weeks ago the price was £130ltr +4% vat kersene £1.50ltr +4% vat red derv I get the feeling i'm getting done
@@chrisharrell2449 I go to the filling station at the ⛽ pump price 99.9 pence ltr buying from the tanker to fill my kerosene home heating is slightly cheaper around 85 pence ltr but I don't touch my 1, 200 ltr tank I keep that for the boiler to heat the water and rads in the mornings.
@@BS-ql5nl by the jug kerosene is almost $5/L in Canada for some reason.
Kerosene (any number), gas oil, diesel (any number) mean different things, dependent on where you live. It would be far better to quote the boiling range, fraction - or, as more usually the redwood viscosity scale.
In the UK, Diesel is around 35s Redwood, Kerosene (used as/called heating oil) is 28s R. There are other more volatile kerosene fractions which are more expensive (with less ‘lubricity’ if a more volatile fraction. Gas (petrol) is taxed to the hilt (around 50p for excise duty and 20% on the combined cost and duty. Derv (diesel for road vehicles) is taxed the same. That makes them ridiculously expensive to burn for heat!
Hydraulic oil is a ‘nothing special’ oil and contains anti-frothing additives (only?), but it is sold in different viscosities ISO32 is a popular example. When I say ‘nothing special’ it does not mean ‘low quality’.
I have no intention whatsoever, to add petrol to anything fed to my heaters. As there is loads of lubricity, even in waste oil, I would suggest you should only thin the oil with the cheapest kerosene (heating oil) you can obtain.
I reckon that around 10% waste oil (properly filtered - to low or sub-micron quality) thinned with kerosene would likely be the best option available - for a relatively clean burn and trouble-free operation. Attempting too much, initially, is a waste of time and effort. Better to start with minimum waste oil and gradually increase the proportion of clean waste oil until possible operational problems. Then reduce and run confidently on (slightly) less waste oil mixtures.
My reasons for this suggestion? There is no point in the overall cost exceeding that of bought-in fuel; you are currently simply guessing; you are swayed by a lot of posters who likely do not consider the cost or understand how these heaters work.
You are altering the mix in an unscientific manner (changing more than a single parameter at a time). Likely more than half of the comments are from those that don’t actually have a clue. Claims, by unknown posters, are often exaggerated. These cheap chinese heaters are not the most consistent of products - neither of mine are in accordance with the specifications. Your controller and motherboards are not able to be re-programmed like some of the more expensive combinations.
Burning at least a small amount of waste oil, effectively, is a bonus. Aiming for the maximum amount is ludicrous, IMO.
‘Walk before you run’ is an age-old adage, where trying out things such as this are concerned.
Is this enough reasons why?
Would second this but with you using your red diesel as it's cheaper than Kerosene in canada. So you'll not save what you hoped to but cleaning that thing every day is a PITA. So see how you go with 10%/90% mix. Could increase that in small increments if you don't have any issues. Oh, please don't put the burner in the oven.
@@leighreid5480 Leigh, In the UK, red diesel is 35s Redwood, now exactly (I think) the same as DERV (Diesel Engine Road Vehicle) but with no excise duty and only 5% VAT (if bought in quantity (over 200l?) - but may not be quite as low in Sulphur content). Kerosene 28sR is the usual boiler/furnace fuel for domestic central heating, etc. Many in the UK burn only this fraction with their CDHs - it has sufficient lubricity (apparently) to avoid wearing out the fuel pump. The more volatile fraction of Kerosene would most definitely cause premature pump wear, unless some lubricant were added.
UK Kerosene (28sR) may well be the same as furnace oil in Ca. Our Kerosene is clearly far more mobile than diesel, so a sufficient dilution using Kerosene could well finish at much the same viscosity as 100% diesel. This lighter fraction contains slightly less available energy per unit volume, so the waste oil will likely return the energy content to (or towards) that of diesel.
None the less the atomiser will give trouble burning oil it's not ment to burn and glazing starts no high temperature burn will burn it clean which comes to kerosene burns very hot and clean and I don't have strip it down to clear out soot that soon gather with oil mixtures been there and tried it.
The only way this makes sense is if you can run pure waste oil or nearly pure waste oil. I wouldn’t even bother unless you can use atleast 90% waste oil.
Why aren’t you tuning the fuel air mixture settings? I can’t think of one reason why you’d deliberately handicap yourself by using presets instead of choosing your own settings
have you tried biodiesel? I am sure that would work quite well
I’m assuming you mean cooking oil and methanol?
Free used oil and some chemicals. No need to preheat
You can and it does work, but sadly can have side effects, clogging of the atomizer, (granted it takes a few months), sout build up and eventually the rumbling Storm was explaining with his heater. We went throught this ourself and now try to find "normal' diesel and will only use bio as a last resort. I think David Mclucky or John mentioned the affects of bio, sorry can't remember Johns full channel name, will update if I can find it.
John McK 47 was the one.
@@brianj9262 I think you are right with mixture I am using but as we increase the wmo % may come in handy . I know if we do biodiesel it will be a must .
Whats every one getting for heat mine run 245 temp on controller. Just diesel oil
If that's Celsius I'm surprised it's not shutting down in overheat. The 2kw one in my truck i think the hottest I've seen was about 180°c. The bigger 5kw one I think I've seen 160°C on outside cold air. I ran it at about -5° OAT and it was putting out about 150
Today i tried a mixture 20% waste oil 80% diesel preheated with a 2 mt copper coil made around exhaust, temperature exiting the coil was about 80 celcius and nothing still doesnt work, the last option is to install the 3 way valve and start the heater on diesel and when the chamber is hot turn to the mixture.
What doesn’t work ?
Oh it won’t start . Yeah you must start on diesel . I have an update I am down . Fuel oil is dripping out of my intake so I shut unit down . Got a new unit in tomorrow. Bush of parts coming to repair this unit
@@Storman77 Stock seal problem? Im using red paste for seals now
@@triplex0076 I am not sure but I have blue gasket maker . I think it’s blowing out the intake side of the burner tube which is in the intake side . Still a big enough problem that I won’t trust it . Till I open and fix it. But I need my parts first
@@Storman77 this burners are strange, yesterday i was running it the whole day on h6 with 15% oil and the rest diesel, I opened it this morning and it was clean. This morning I started it on 20% oil and 3 hours later it went off, all clogged again 🤬
I just searched prophet Google for kerosene. It looks like we don't get any kerosene here in Germany. I will ask that dude who delivers my red diesel. Do you tried to burn organic fat for example melted pork fat or something like that?
Jet fuel is kerosene plus some additives
@@wallacegrommet9343 I know but i even don't find it on german Amazon. I got to ask for it at my local patrol station.
Maybe also called heating oil. You might find your red diesel is cheaper, just depends on local pricing.
Also called paraffin oil in UK.
@@englishrupe01 paraffin oil might be one fraction of kerosene, but may not be the same as kerosene for central heating boilers. The viscosity is important. The heating oil fraction is 28s Redwood. These mainly ‘ane’ fractions are a mixture of hydrocarbons with a smallish range of carbon chain length, but the same volatility can be achieved with differing percentages of individual hydrocarbons, within the range.
These heaters are ‘designed’ to run on gas oil (diesel, DERV, red diesel [in the UK]), not the kerosene fraction - even though many do use the lighter fraction😮. Do remember that some other categories of chemicals are blended to provide products for specific uses (petrol/gasoline contains cyclic hydrocarbons as well as straight chain - or even branched chain - hydrocarbons, plus other additives to improve combustion in engines). While the Redwood scale is still quoted for these fractions, the modern viscosity unit is the CentiStoke - because it is a better means for modern machines and the SI system of units adopted by most of the world in scientific and engineering fields.😅
These fractions can have different names in other domains. The actual carbon chain lengths in each fraction overlap with adjacent fractions. Crude oil from different sources can provide different fractions - as well as cracking streams refineries, which are engineered to provide the desired final product, can alter the actual make-up of these products.
an ultra sonic cleaner and are you in leduc alberta
No I am not lol yes I have a cleaner
Im seeing people add 1 cup of gas to a gallon of waste oil then mix 50-50 anybody try that with good results. I know the old timers add gas to make no 1
Have not fired mine up yet maybe tomorrow, but maybe its not getting good oil flow try removing filter, just a though
On Diesel ? Have you primed the pump up to the heater ? Let’s get you fired up man lol
Still in the box, lol need to get diesel tomorrow, then I will go back through your vids and find how to prime THX
@@randywashing298 ok text if you have any questions
Question lol, watched your vid on Wheeling In Northern Ontario, fantastic rock climbing and drone footage. Where was that place and where are you from I'm in Longpiont Ont
@@randywashing298 up near Sudbury Randy
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Sonic cleaning
Kerosene in Italy is so expensive just not worth it.
Methanol in italy is about 9 euro a liter 🤣
Ciao TripleX, I'm in Italy and was wondering what is the cheapest oil one can get and how much is agricultural diesel? Do you have any idea?
@@operationdarktolight4321 You cannot get agricultural diesel if you dont have a proper license, the cheapest diesel you can get is red diesel for heating at 1.74 euro which is like 8c cheaper than car diesel. You cannot buy like 20L of heating diesel, there is no place like a petrol station, they come with trucks and fill up the big tank at the house
What about ethanol? Not methanol.
I need to find a source Paul . Could be good
methanol for sure but I'm drinking my ethanol!
Teach people how to make a drip feed oil burner in stead of ruining a CDH
I wish, if I had the room I would 100% make one. I am considering making an outdoor decorative drip oil fireplace to enjoy out in the deck on cold evenings
909
try 1688 works on my blue controler
What version do you have? When off does it have round red circle with a bar across it ?
@@Storman77 I don't think so it is on at the moment as we have Sub-Zero temperatures here in Scotland . I wanted to send a photo I don't think RUclips will let me
@@chrisharrell2449 mine is a 3 digit code and hasn’t been broken as of yet
@@Storman77 never heard of that before
@@chrisharrell2449 take a look I made a video very different from your version. I ordered another unit and hoping it’s more the older style
9009
Too many digits
1688
That doesn’t work on this unit . It’s a 3 digit code
Any adjustments tips. Things to tweak.
i have also a 5 kw heater i put there 50% wast ail and 50% gaisoline in it its burns bur in the air hose after a whyle i get ther oil in it i burn it in alpine mode do sombody know what is wrong ??