Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
So let's say the surface area you are tiling is long height-wise. And you are tiling from the ground up so you can't use a 2x4 and you are using the same exact size tiles in the video. Do you want to tile a few rows and let it set for a day then tile a few more rows so the tiles won't move because of the weight?
DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY!! - Batten up the complete room level first on whatever walls are to be tiled. - Never leave the spacers in between the tiles, place them in sticking out then pull them out when the tiles are set. (IF YOU LEAVE THEM IN, THERE IS A GOOD POSSIBILITY THEY WILL SHOW THROUGH THE FINISHED GROUT. LOOKS HORRIBLE AND VERY AMMATURE - Always use a gauger or bucket trowel to get adhesive out of the adhesive bucket and load the notched trowel up. Easier and keeps things a lot cleaner
The only problem with this tile job is that the left hand final tiles are very small. Should never be less than a half a tile. Don't think he measured properly.
Someone just said that they mastered this trade in two week, christ I did it you 40 years and I wouldn't decribe myself as having mastered it. This intro to tiling is ok, if you are planing to do a few splashbacks around a sink or bath, but this guys family would starve to death if he had to make money from the trade.
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top. If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture. You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
Biggest problem in the UK is that joiners are jack of all trades and say they can tile. This just isn't true in the majority of cases. If you want someone to tile use a TILER. A tiler knows how to set out correctly, he is also competent in tanking/waterproofing. My joiner told me to just tile straight on the tilebacker..
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
@feralferret ....because you're going to end up cutting the tiles no matter where you start. If you start from one side instead of the center it will look unbalanced! Everyone knows that you must start from the middle, genius.
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
He has no idea. You are correct. Start in the middle of a tile or the edge. depends on the cut and waste. better to have a 3/4 cut than a 30 mm cut. The guy should have been laying his rows on a straight edge or at least a chalked string line. The first row above all should be straight as die.
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
cont.. - Always plan to have the biggest cut possible, where possible. Small cuts are ammature. If he'd started the centre of his first tile on the wall centre line, he'd have had another half a tile bigger on the cut at the end of the wall. - This guy has done a bit of tiling before but he is by no means a tiler
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm) I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
Isn't it better to have the cut tile at the bottom rather than on the top at it looks much better to have a full tile on the top? Can anybody elaborate on it?
Not a bad video but lots that can be said, first off way too big of a trowel and you leave way too much behind , you can hear it in the way you scrape the walls then you lift up at the end of the pass leaving a lump in the glue, also you should have centered the center of the tile giving you a much larger pc o the wall.Should never put the spacers in the cross the way u did you have your plumb line that will keep it square, makes for a poor grout job.Why no edging strip? Is yout floor level?
I have been doing tile for 30 years and most of this is bull.He ended up with 1/4 tile at the ends when there should have been 3/4 of a tile. And guys if your wall are that much out of square then you have to fix them before tile. Dang looks like i need to make videos
Never, so you are saying you should tile from the top down lol.. the way it was done was correct procedure apart from he should never cris cross the adhesive.. other than that it was fine, but not a very good example of tiling as that was a very basic area with easy straight cuts so not showing how a wet cutter should be used also, which is almost always needed for any room at some point.. Good to see him using the good old rubi cutter, cant beet them cutters..
noooo Simone...never put tile over wood...always use cement board or backer board for tile.I'm not a contractor but that question was too easy. You can apply it over the ply wood if your measurements allow. Wood will surely pull the moisture out off your thinset and soon your tile will peel off. Dont put it over sheetrock either...only cement board.
There are youtube videos to help you do tile...this ain't one of them.jeeeesh. Tommy eductate yourself a little more. All pro's watching this are gritting their teeth
I'm an amateur and even I know not to spread thinset like that. Supposed to be straight lines on thinset then when placing tile push in while slightly moving tile in a perpindicular fasion to how the thinset is spread.
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
polish : a gdzie sprawdzanie poziomicą , gdzie sprawdzanie na dotyk jak leży płytka przy płytce . W Ameryce to jednak lipe się praktykuje , płyta gips-karton i hej do przodu
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall, it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's. I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,, but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
Or you can buy a cheep chinese tiles and cut them with an ordinary knife :D I believe that he forgot about timber till the last moment. I can`t watch it any longer :D Pro indeed!
![[Limbus Company - Teaser] Season5 - Oblivion](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/8anKuEeZLeI/mqdefault.jpg)
Well Demonstrated and Excellent videos with a basic common tilling tools.
A step by step guide.
am going on a tiling job tomorrow thanks bro this help a lot...
Correct me if I'm wrong, but if you are an amateur and don't want to race against the clock, you can paint the adhesive directly to your tiles as an alternative...
Bit of advise for some people, when you center the wall - dont always start with the edge of the tile at the center...you may end up with a tiny cut either side, work it out first and if needs be have the center of the tile at the center of the wall.
How about a demo where the plasterer has left the walls with more bumps than a roller fucking coaster?
This guy is a wizard.... It takes me 20mins to work out how to comb the adhesive on to the wall without it dropping all over the place. By then its starting to dry... I need Tommy skills !!
good job Andy ,, you make it look quite straight forward ,, Tommy`s like most gaffers ,, he`s waved his hands about and disappeared ,, probably to the Golf club or the pub ,,or maybe both ,,,, cheers guys ,,good video ,, :-)
He seems to have oversimplified the issue of how to place the vertical starting line. There are two possibilities: 1. Center a tile over a vertical line centered between the side walls. 2. Use the line centered between the two wall as the vertical starting line for your tiles. The choice of which approach to use depends on which one eliminates the need for small tiles on the ends.
you are totally right, also ive noticed the technique of back buttering is better, because the way hes laying down the tiles, in my experience, leaves too much air trapped inside and not much adhesion, once dry, knock on the tiles with your fingers and youll notice several of them with air pockets, they fall after a few years
..wow so quick :) thank you my dear :) now I can that :) thankssssssssssssss ..greetings from Germany :Sophia
That is true. I noticed he was saving on glue too. The trowel should be scraped at about 45 degree. the grooves are air channels for the trapped air to escape. otherwise it is too hard to push the tile down. It's all about angles and pressure. Same as plastering. Not how you spread it on but how you take it off.
very interested video with lesson well learnt on how to tile a wall.
brilliant! many thanks! fast, skillful, very clear.
enjoyed the video very simple thank you
excellent video for dummies like me
Very useful Andy and Tom me old mates. Thanks.
Good video, well done
shame you didnt do corners and windows. clearest instruction yet!
isnt it better if you have the same cuts on the top and the bottom. better meaning, more aesthetically appealing
very useful thanks
Excellent!
thx great upload + good work
thank you, Youve made it so clear i can purchase everything right now, and tile !!:D
thank you very much.
thank you !! this was v helpful!!!
So let's say the surface area you are tiling is long height-wise.
And you are tiling from the ground up so you can't use a 2x4 and you are using the same exact size tiles in the video.
Do you want to tile a few rows and let it set for a day then tile a few more rows so the tiles won't move because of the weight?
Nice job buddy. i like it.
+lsgtr. Thanks :)
How much is a good tile cutter?
what is the best way to make sure that all the tiles are level on the wall so as not to have any lips between the two tiles.
THANKS
Nice Vid but why not start from the top so no cut tiles at eye level and also why 20cm from the ground
Thanks if any one can tell me !!!
love this vido
why gap between two tiles were not filled ?
DO NOT DO IT THIS WAY!!
- Batten up the complete room level first on whatever walls are to be tiled.
- Never leave the spacers in between the tiles, place them in sticking out then pull them out when the tiles are set. (IF YOU LEAVE THEM IN, THERE IS A GOOD POSSIBILITY THEY WILL SHOW THROUGH THE FINISHED GROUT. LOOKS HORRIBLE AND VERY AMMATURE
- Always use a gauger or bucket trowel to get adhesive out of the adhesive bucket and load the notched trowel up. Easier and keeps things a lot cleaner
why 420 from the ground?
The only problem with this tile job is that the left hand final tiles are very small. Should never be less than a half a tile. Don't think he measured properly.
for sure bruffa
What I do not understand is why start 20 cm from the ground
gugolero make sure the level balance is true
why?
worng wrong cuts.....too small.......center the first tile you would have big cuts on each side
420
Someone just said that they mastered this trade in two week, christ I did it you 40 years and I wouldn't decribe myself as having mastered it. This intro to tiling is ok, if you are planing to do a few splashbacks around a sink or bath, but this guys family would starve to death if he had to make money from the trade.
no point to point with the cuts
I'm a graduate of u tube u
Anthony Duivenvoorden i will
Start from the base and don't go all the way to the top.
If you must go to the top, then start from top and make the cut at the base. The base is least noticeable and in most cases hidden by furniture.
You will also need to check the angle of the sides with a long spirit level. A slanting will can throw a job completely out.
Who needs scool when ya got youtube :D
+Ravel Viirsalu :)
You do when you can't spell "SCHOOL" properly!
You don't think that was planned....take a hint haha
Suggest you set a length of wood as he did with the knowledge that you will end up cutting your bottom tiles to fit (gap below to be smaller than your tile height). That way if the floor varies from one end to the other, you can cut to suit. and won't know the difference
I think you should mention checking the wall for hidden electrical cables and pipes before screwing a support batten.
There was a large spot behind one of the tiles with NO mortar! Every bit of the tile should have mortar on the back or it can fall off eventually. Other than that it's informative.
This video was great. I was able to do entire bathroom on what I learned. Thank for putting it out for all to see.
What was the point in starting in the centre of the wall? And why 420 from the floor?
+Kathryn Love He starts in the centre to end up with even cuts at each end.
As for the 420 off the floor... I missed that too !
+J-L B Thx!
+Kathryn Love Agreed with why the 420mm from the floor ? i need answers Tommy fast
+Kathryn Love i would imagine it would be to imitate a bath or work top height
+Kathryn Love The 420 would of been just a rough guideline for this demonstration
Biggest problem in the UK is that joiners are jack of all trades and say they can tile. This just isn't true in the majority of cases. If you want someone to tile use a TILER. A tiler knows how to set out correctly, he is also competent in tanking/waterproofing. My joiner told me to just tile straight on the tilebacker..
You, sir, make this look easy. Thanks for the video!
Hi Guys ! Thanks for a brilliant video which has now given me the confidence to tackle my bathroom. keep 'em coming guys ! Regards . . . Eddie.
shouldn't the adheasive be spead so that the notches in the trowel create the notches on the wall with the adhesive vertically so that there wont be any sag if the tiles go on the horizontal notches?
@feralferret ....because you're going to end up cutting the tiles no matter where you start. If you start from one side instead of the center it will look unbalanced! Everyone knows that you must start from the middle, genius.
Great video. With the inserted corner spacers, do you leave those in or do you ever remove those? I would think that they might leave a weak spot in the grout. Any opinions??
He has no idea. You are correct. Start in the middle of a tile or the edge. depends on the cut and waste. better to have a 3/4 cut than a 30 mm cut. The guy should have been laying his rows on a straight edge or at least a chalked string line. The first row above all should be straight as die.
What should I do to prep the wall if it's a little "messed up" by removing previous tiles? I will fill the few holes which appeared (due to highly bonded tiles) but the paper layer of the plasterboard is now peeling in most places and exposed. Does it need skimming?
nmg196 if the holes patches are not huge I would use the tile adhesive to patch them using a flat steel trowel give it a half day to set (or use fast setting adhesive) if you want to tile straight away
It's very easy. I think I can do it!!!
Thanks for posting this video. Could you please clarify how you know where to measure/drill the batten board? Also, does the measurement include all the spacers from the tiles below the board? Thanks!
cont..
- Always plan to have the biggest cut possible, where possible. Small cuts are ammature. If he'd started the centre of his first tile on the wall centre line, he'd have had another half a tile bigger on the cut at the end of the wall.
- This guy has done a bit of tiling before but he is by no means a tiler
@missjunglette Either level the wall with plaster (sometimes difficult), add plasterboard stood off from the wall, or get smaller tiles so the edge discontinuities aren't obvious. If you use plasterboard make sure it will take the weight of the tiles, you need to check the strength rating.
I quickly becoming a fan. Like your instructional video's.
+Ready Temp Brilliant nice to hear it
+Ready Temp definitely.
I'm going to try this one day, I'll let u know how I do lol
How do you know the tiles are straight/flush?
great for any novice out there who's going tiling the first time ,clearly explained
Why 420 from the floor? Assume its something to do with the tile size. The issue I have is the tiles are relatively small and rectangular (10cmx20cm)
I know at least 1 of the walls skirting is NOT level so what would you recommend please?
Brilliant! Question... Other than tiling adhesive, what other can i use? Tq.
thanks that a perfect demonstration, the demonstrator is very skilful as a tiler and a presenter, message come across successfully.
How do you know if the walls are running in or out if you only take on measurement? You have to take two measurements one at top and other at bottom and then adjust the centre accordingly.
I very very like the ts .ok but I can't understand which cements using because I am in KSA
excellenet video mate, made it look very simple and straight forward, thanks, i feel i can do this
Isn't it better to have the cut tile at the bottom rather than on the top at it looks much better to have a full tile on the top? Can anybody elaborate on it?
What is the wall surface on which the tiles are adhering ? Standard wallboard....Sheetrock?
I.cant wait to try tiling the bathroom ....something unique ...thought the video was very helpful...
Not a bad video but lots that can be said, first off way too big of a trowel and you leave way too much behind , you can hear it in the way you scrape the walls then you lift up at the end of the pass leaving a lump in the glue, also you should have centered the center of the tile giving you a much larger pc o the wall.Should never put the spacers in the cross the way u did you have your plumb line that will keep it square, makes for a poor grout job.Why no edging strip? Is yout floor level?
I have been doing tile for 30 years and most of this is bull.He ended up with 1/4 tile at the ends when there should have been 3/4 of a tile. And guys if your wall are that much out of square then you have to fix them before tile. Dang looks like i need to make videos
Never, so you are saying you should tile from the top down lol.. the way it was done was correct procedure apart from he should never cris cross the adhesive.. other than that it was fine, but not a very good example of tiling as that was a very basic area with easy straight cuts so not showing how a wet cutter should be used also, which is almost always needed for any room at some point.. Good to see him using the good old rubi cutter, cant beet them cutters..
Hello Do u A have suggestion for a painted surface. do i need to apply backer wood first?
noooo Simone...never put tile over wood...always use cement board or backer board for tile.I'm not a contractor but that question was too easy. You can apply it over the ply wood if your measurements allow. Wood will surely pull the moisture out off your thinset and soon your tile will peel off. Dont put it over sheetrock either...only cement board.
There are youtube videos to help you do tile...this ain't one of them.jeeeesh. Tommy eductate yourself a little more. All pro's watching this are gritting their teeth
i know its 10 months since you posted this comment BUT your talking to someone that knows what he/she is talking about... hate to burst your bubble
I'm an amateur and even I know not to spread thinset like that. Supposed to be straight lines on thinset then when placing tile push in while slightly moving tile
in a perpindicular fasion to how the thinset is spread.
at around 8 mins into the video, the gentleman says clean off all the adhesive, this is especially important to keep the adhesive level in all areas as to avoid excess adhesive which could be troulblesome after
well if ur a "pro" and (quote) want to do tile then why r you watching this video on how to do it, 336,823 people must think different!
nice tile cutter
@missjunglette Was the wall always bowed? When the house was built the studs (vertical 2x4's that make up the structure) might of not been plumb behind the wall. Or when the shower was built they might of put in regular 1/2" drywall instead of cement board, which would absorb moisture and cause the wall to bow and be very uneven. If it is one of those two problems it is a easy fix to cut out the wall and replace with new cement board which will give you a nice flat surface. Hope this helps.
polish : a gdzie sprawdzanie poziomicą , gdzie sprawdzanie na dotyk jak leży płytka przy płytce . W Ameryce to jednak lipe się praktykuje , płyta gips-karton i hej do przodu
Why don't you start the tiling from one side of the room, rather than the middle and end up having to cut them when you reach the sides?
Hi Guy,Im doing a shower stall,
it has lite brown and tan speckle paint on the wall's.
I wanna tile the stall in lite and med dark tile,,
but im not sure the grout will stick to the paint in the stall?
You make it look like the easiest, cleanest job ever!! Brilliant tutorial, thank you.
overnight is best,by the way,not mentioned here is to check behind the wall where any screws are going for electricity and/or water.
Or you can buy a cheep chinese tiles and cut them with an ordinary knife :D I believe that he forgot about timber till the last moment. I can`t watch it any longer :D Pro indeed!
Funny enough about all of the tiling vids on here are done by Englishmen. God Bless the English!
Nice , he did not check the end cuts anywhere ????, No "spasar" in between ???
this is for dummy
@experttilehelp i dont think the general population see things that way lol but your right
what do you do about skirting boards do you tile to floor ,or skirting board hope this makes sense
Cheers guys, I followed your tips, and now my bathroom looks a treat!
Thank you for this video. I tried to open the links but the pages are unavalable.
+MsBrutus64 Thank you for your continued support keep your eyes peeled for new videos coming soon please re try using www.tommysyard.com Many thanks