I do have a vice! And even though I moved out 9 years ago I still haven’t moved it my leaky garage, but that’s a different issue, a vice would be the perfect choice.
I would use a bolt to go inside the yet to be formed loop/circle area area and a mandrel bender style hinge to wrap around the bolt on the same axis so the metal will wrap around the bolt as it swings around look up mandrel bender for an example. then make a 3d printed stamp to get the steps in it . That metal also looks like stainless and is harder to form as it wont stretch well and will have lots of spring back try aluminium a non hardening version is a good place to start
Stage 2 requires stage 1 to be a larger radius so there is material to fold in. Otherwise you'd have to be pushing more of the tail in, as per the original design
@messerschmidtfpv4419 I think I actually have one of those somewhere, or maybe I just looked at them, it would definitely be a better way to go, I might remake the hexapod a to be a little bit more physically robust and use a PCA9685
i believe that your plastic pieces has a deforming factor greater than metal so dispite your theory about scale is corret you need a better deforming factor material, in first stage you can easily bend the metal sheet because is not plastic that is deforming it but that metal rod. If you apply 90% plastic but just the tip of some metal you can achieve better results i believe
Interesting to see strength and durability comparsion with eSUN ePLA-CF, they claim 15-20% carbon fibers, while Bambu makes PLA-CF and PETG-CF 5%, and only PA6-CF, PAHT-CF (PA12) and PET-CF is probably 15% (MSDS says 12-20%) Printed some parts with Bambu PLA-CF 5% and I'm disappointed, it negligible stiffer than eSUN PLA+ but doubles the price and will wear AMS unit faster
I think when I manage to get a more robust process I might try some material comparisons, all of the green parts were done in Bambu PETG and the black tooling was a generic ABS that’s around 2 years old, but prints very well!
so cool! good work
Thank you! Cheers!
You may not have a arbor press but I am guessing you have a vise? You can design and print jaw extensions that you can use as your tool.
I do have a vice! And even though I moved out 9 years ago I still haven’t moved it my leaky garage, but that’s a different issue, a vice would be the perfect choice.
I would use a bolt to go inside the yet to be formed loop/circle area area and a mandrel bender style hinge to wrap around the bolt on the same axis so the metal will wrap around the bolt as it swings around look up mandrel bender for an example. then make a 3d printed stamp to get the steps in it . That metal also looks like stainless and is harder to form as it wont stretch well and will have lots of spring back try aluminium a non hardening version is a good place to start
I do enjoy a good side quest! The unexpected plastic metal press was a bonus! MORE BEEF REQUIRED!
More beef indeed, I suppose 1kg of plastic is still cheaper than a £70 arbor press, so I can add a lot of material!
Stage 2 requires stage 1 to be a larger radius so there is material to fold in. Otherwise you'd have to be pushing more of the tail in, as per the original design
Does a Part 3 for the Hexapod comes? with Controller Control?
It’s somewhere on my big list of videos, I seem to add more to the list than I can keep up with!
@@JustAnotherMakerChannel Have you seen the code with an PCA9685? (Part1)
@messerschmidtfpv4419 I think I actually have one of those somewhere, or maybe I just looked at them, it would definitely be a better way to go, I might remake the hexapod a to be a little bit more physically robust and use a PCA9685
Love a good side quest 👌
Always do the side quests before the main story :)
@07:00 Classic... Imagine doing your CAD on like a 77" Screen like I occasionally do which totally ruins ANY and ALL sense of scale of a part 🤣
CAD secretly plots against us 😂
i believe that your plastic pieces has a deforming factor greater than metal so dispite your theory about scale is corret you need a better deforming factor material, in first stage you can easily bend the metal sheet because is not plastic that is deforming it but that metal rod.
If you apply 90% plastic but just the tip of some metal you can achieve better results i believe
Great information, I certainly need to read more about metal forming!
Interesting to see strength and durability comparsion with eSUN ePLA-CF, they claim 15-20% carbon fibers, while Bambu makes PLA-CF and PETG-CF 5%, and only PA6-CF, PAHT-CF (PA12) and PET-CF is probably 15% (MSDS says 12-20%)
Printed some parts with Bambu PLA-CF 5% and I'm disappointed, it negligible stiffer than eSUN PLA+ but doubles the price and will wear AMS unit faster
I think when I manage to get a more robust process I might try some material comparisons, all of the green parts were done in Bambu PETG and the black tooling was a generic ABS that’s around 2 years old, but prints very well!
You know you might be able to finish the hinge roll by using the 180 bend jig first and also giving the "sharp" end a
I think the end of your comment might be missing? Were you going to say use the first concept after the 180 bend?
Id say cast the tools out of pewter
I haven’t done any pewter casting before, is it tricky? I’ve done a few lead weights in the past.
@@JustAnotherMakerChannel looks easy enough, I bought some and the solder heater, but havent tried much yet :))
Thanks for the tip I might give it a try :)