Every situation is going to be different, depending on how deep the corrosion extends. Just keep checking the surface as you go, to see if you've got a good polish. If there's extensive deep pitting, sometimes it is helpful to get the really deep stuff by hand!
You can use sandpaper, but it tends to scratch and doesn't flex into pitted or stained areas. Our abrasive pads flex to get corrosion and discoloration that are under the surface layer - all while not scratching or putting swirl marks on the cast iron.
looks like speeds aren't the same between both sanders? Or the pressure is different slowing one down more
their oil just needs "slightly" more pressure (look at his white knuckles and the clean spot directly under the handle) to apply :P
Dan, this is very impressive and I look forward to trying it out. Scott
Thanks, Scott!
Can’t wait to try it.
Thanks for the comment Rick, did you get a chance to try it out yet?
Testing the Carbon Method Reconditioning oil. How long should I run the sander before I see the removal of the rust spots?
Every situation is going to be different, depending on how deep the corrosion extends. Just keep checking the surface as you go, to see if you've got a good polish. If there's extensive deep pitting, sometimes it is helpful to get the really deep stuff by hand!
?....Why wouldn't you just use sand paper? Only been using it for 100s of years.
You can use sandpaper, but it tends to scratch and doesn't flex into pitted or stained areas. Our abrasive pads flex to get corrosion and discoloration that are under the surface layer - all while not scratching or putting swirl marks on the cast iron.