Very helpful video.I have just brought an Aster kit my first Meths fired Locomotive so i will be watching your video a lot to remember what I will need to do after my loco is assembled . Thank you.
Right off the bat I noticed the fire extinguisher a couple seconds in. I had to stop and think for a split second, "Was that the fuel?" No! That's to put out the fire if you were careless. Alcohol burns clear and hot! Great Video! Thank You!
Absolutely brilliant Video along with your animated ones of the loco's construction. I would have thought the way forward for future generations of builders (if they can afford the price of Aster locos !) Did you make your Rolling Road or if not where did you obtain it from ? James
+James Anderson Thank you for Aster for the nice words. But I did the complete work without them :-). The "Roling road gauge 1" you can find it on internet.
Excellent video! Really appreciate the level of detail on the functions and operations. Absolutely beautiful engine as well! If I may ask, where did you find the test stand (or did you build it)?
I wouldn't have any issue assembling one of these, but, WOW! I don't know if I would know how to operate it once completed...lol... REALLY COOL VIDEO!... Now I want one...
Didn't you make a build video because I remember in my childhood they're being a builder video for this steam locomotive in the same style of stop-motion as this one
I would be scared to run this on rails because, IDK how the boiler would fill with water as I ran it. I don't want it to explode. Beautiful Locomotive though, thanks for sharing!
Roller Test Bed - No, u won't find it by plugging in "Roling road gauge 1" etc. There ain't many out dare (there). Peter Spoerer in UK used to make them but now, it's handed over to another UK'er but he's nut friendly to deal with. It wld b best to buy small ball bearings and construct the unit urself. Accu- craft sells a pair of ball bearings on small black steel frames. But the ball bearings r too big a diameter and width. U want maximum space between the driver axle to insert a BBQ gun stick, cotton wand, etc to ignite the Alcohol wicks, then to view if the flames r lit w a mirror. Note datttttooo (that) the author have a metal plate under the test bed. Alcohol can drip down from the cotton wand (dipped w the fuel), or overfilled wick cups and the flames will b invisible. U can BBQ ur expensive loco $5K - $8K but worse, ur fingers, hand, or even the track if it's running on it. Don't buy an alcohol fired live steam loco. Get one dat uses Butane gas. The gas powered one doesn't need a draft fan (some butane fired one do need one by design). And, the gas powered one is EZr to fire up and control, like ur gas oven range tops. Just turn the knob on to control the flame strength. Can't do dattto w the Wino powered loco. Increasing the Wino fuel valve would just flood up the wick cups, drip it onto the track, and u've got a screeming fireball going around the track, burning the ties, burning the expensive model coaches, wooden freight KAaaas, ... And worse, cheered by ur Wifee. Ur fun is over!!! No Alcohol fired live steam locos allowed!!! Coal wld b safer fuel and more heat content than any of these two fuels. Just like the real steam loco, u'll need to keep stoking the rock pieces while ur being not just a fireman but also an engineer controlling the fuel valve, water injection valve, blower valve, looking at the water level gauge, pressure ga., while u must look out outside for the track ahead where some dumb rabbit had left Casey Jone's engine on ur track, or absent minded giant hand is blocking the track, fiddling his loco or the wind blew a log (fat twig) on the track, or some brakeman had switched ur mainline track to a dead-end terminal as ur going scale 80mph!!! Yes, it's like ur being a real engineer n fireman in a real steam locomotive. Ahhh, don't go over to the dark side. Stay w a fake steam loco models, powered by DC or better, ugly 3 rail AC motor models. Just blacken the 3rd rail to justify simulating the locos to 'real' weathered painted models (= toys but u don't wanna dem 2B toys, but labeled as models = toys too). Just stay w a DC two rail model n layout w DCC automation control, Half-Zero (aka H Oh) or 2-rail 0-scale. There r live steam 0-scale locos, more extensive in UK if u have either 3-Rail or 2-Rail 0-Gauge (= 3 rail) or 0-scale track if u want to try live steam. H0 scale is a bit too small for live steam. Perhaps use dry ice for the little body inside. If u notice all of the electric motor 'steam' loco model, the die block is always in the middle position, regardless of whether it's moving forward or backward. Why is datttttooo???
Very good illustration video!!! For the lubrication, it is best to turn the loco upside dwn. In this way, axles-bearings can be lubricated. Also, the rod linkages (valve gear) can b seen more fully for lubrication. I wld use steam oil to dab the pistons, valve stems, guide rails, and crosshead to main rod links. regular gear oil won't stay in those last hot spots. For those who wants to cross over to the 'dark' side, u may wanna check w oscillating cylinder locos or the next step up to Roundhouse Engineering's UK 1/19th scale live steam models where the prices and operation wld b much simpler than the Aster or Accucraft expensive models. There r not nuf (enough) videos on showing how to run live steam models AFTER the (initial) steam up operation. That video will show everything mentioned in my 1st comment. But maybe, i'm wrong. Once the livestm loco gets started, it'll behave like a DCC automatic control of everyding, including the electrified layout control (switches/turnouts). Don't need to touch the live stm loco controls and just sit 2 miles away till the fuel or water runs out.
Very helpful video.I have just brought an Aster kit my first Meths fired Locomotive so i will be watching your video a lot to remember what I will need to do after my loco is assembled .
Thank you.
Right off the bat I noticed the fire extinguisher a couple seconds in. I had to stop and think for a split second, "Was that the fuel?" No! That's to put out the fire if you were careless. Alcohol burns clear and hot! Great Video! Thank You!
Again absolutely brilliant.Thanks so much.Learnt a lot from this.
:-))))
Now there's a fuel we can all run on :)
Absolutely brilliant Video along with your animated ones of the loco's construction. I would have thought the way forward for future generations of builders (if they can afford the price of Aster locos !) Did you make your Rolling Road or if not where did you obtain it from ? James
+James Anderson Thank you for Aster for the nice words. But I did the complete work without them :-). The "Roling road gauge 1" you can find it on internet.
Thank you so much for all the kind comments. Nice to read that it is an helpfull video for some people. 😊
Excellent! bravo pour ce film qui explique parfaitement les fonctionnements. Un tres grand merci
A mesmerising film and model, bravo .
:-))
Great steam Engine... Thanks for sharing in depth operation of this Locomotive.
rrangana11 nice, finally someone who writes something on this video. Thank you. :-)
Excellent video! Really appreciate the level of detail on the functions and operations. Absolutely beautiful engine as well! If I may ask, where did you find the test stand (or did you build it)?
I wouldn't have any issue assembling one of these, but, WOW! I don't know if I would know how to operate it once completed...lol... REALLY COOL VIDEO!... Now I want one...
:-)))
Alwin W Hope to see this beautiful engine heading up passenger coaches
Outstanding. I just got a 1955 vintage Mona 99 English loco, and I have no idea how to run it
Hi Alwin!
Where did your wonderful construction animation videos go?
It seems they were deleted, and I really miss them!
Fantastic model and video, puts my trusty old Mamod loco to shame!
I miss the assembly video ngl...
What happened to the videos of the locomotive and tender being built
I guess you could say that this video is "chuffing" good. 😃
Keegan Sponholz also it was *puffin* good too😃😃😄😄
tell me where did u buy this and the cost
Didn't you make a build video because I remember in my childhood they're being a builder video for this steam locomotive in the same style of stop-motion as this one
thats was realy nice to see even the build from 0 to completion very very nice to see and thank you for sharing this whit the world
+paul ketting Thank you :-)
What happened to the build video of this
Nice video. Is it available for buy?
Sukh Toor Hello Sukh, What will you pay for it. If you want I can make an other one for you?
Only one question from me...... does the engine come with a whistle?
No
you are amazing!
+Erik Koekoek Thanks :-)
Coooooooopooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooool!!
Excellent
Echt super goed en echt super leuk
Impresionante, solo falta el maquinista "real" en escala, me imagino que esto todavía no existe ???
+FUTURA grabados Nice reaction. Yes, it does exsist. :-)
I would be scared to run this on rails because, IDK how the boiler would fill with water as I ran it. I don't want it to explode. Beautiful Locomotive though, thanks for sharing!
Maker her just a Shelf Queen?
แหล่มเลย..เจ๋งอ่ะ..อยากได้ 😻😸
😍😍😍😍 I love this
ASMR ftw
Asta da bijuterie
Wow
it's really cool. too bad it's more expensive than my car :-(
But you have an nice car and gitar. :-))) Thanks for the nice reaction...
Why do people always use yellow font on RUclips?
it's EZr 2 read. U try black captions meanwhile?
Cool it takes beer
Cooler than cool
Roller Test Bed - No, u won't find it by plugging in "Roling road gauge 1" etc.
There ain't many out dare (there). Peter Spoerer in UK used to make them
but now, it's handed over to another UK'er but he's nut friendly to deal with.
It wld b best to buy small ball bearings and construct the unit urself. Accu-
craft sells a pair of ball bearings on small black steel frames. But the ball
bearings r too big a diameter and width. U want maximum space between
the driver axle to insert a BBQ gun stick, cotton wand, etc to ignite the
Alcohol wicks, then to view if the flames r lit w a mirror.
Note datttttooo (that) the author have a metal plate under the test bed.
Alcohol can drip down from the cotton wand (dipped w the fuel), or overfilled
wick cups and the flames will b invisible. U can BBQ ur expensive loco $5K - $8K
but worse, ur fingers, hand, or even the track if it's running on it.
Don't buy an alcohol fired live steam loco. Get one dat uses Butane gas. The gas
powered one doesn't need a draft fan (some butane fired one do need one by
design). And, the gas powered one is EZr to fire up and control, like ur gas
oven range tops. Just turn the knob on to control the flame strength. Can't
do dattto w the Wino powered loco. Increasing the Wino fuel valve would just
flood up the wick cups, drip it onto the track, and u've got a screeming fireball
going around the track, burning the ties, burning the expensive model coaches,
wooden freight KAaaas, ... And worse, cheered by ur Wifee. Ur fun is over!!!
No Alcohol fired live steam locos allowed!!!
Coal wld b safer fuel and more heat content than any of these two fuels. Just
like the real steam loco, u'll need to keep stoking the rock pieces while ur being
not just a fireman but also an engineer controlling the fuel valve, water injection
valve, blower valve, looking at the water level gauge, pressure ga., while u must
look out outside for the track ahead where some dumb rabbit had left Casey Jone's
engine on ur track, or absent minded giant hand is blocking the track, fiddling
his loco or the wind blew a log (fat twig) on the track, or some brakeman had
switched ur mainline track to a dead-end terminal as ur going scale 80mph!!!
Yes, it's like ur being a real engineer n fireman in a real steam locomotive.
Ahhh, don't go over to the dark side. Stay w a fake steam loco models, powered
by DC or better, ugly 3 rail AC motor models. Just blacken the 3rd rail to justify
simulating the locos to 'real' weathered painted models (= toys but u don't
wanna dem 2B toys, but labeled as models = toys too). Just stay w a DC two rail
model n layout w DCC automation control, Half-Zero (aka H Oh) or 2-rail 0-scale.
There r live steam 0-scale locos, more extensive in UK if u have either 3-Rail or 2-Rail
0-Gauge (= 3 rail) or 0-scale track if u want to try live steam. H0 scale is a bit too
small for live steam. Perhaps use dry ice for the little body inside.
If u notice all of the electric motor 'steam' loco model, the die block is always in the
middle position, regardless of whether it's moving forward or backward. Why is
datttttooo???
Very good illustration video!!! For the lubrication, it is best to turn the loco upside
dwn. In this way, axles-bearings can be lubricated. Also, the rod linkages (valve gear)
can b seen more fully for lubrication. I wld use steam oil to dab the pistons, valve stems,
guide rails, and crosshead to main rod links. regular gear oil won't stay in those last hot
spots.
For those who wants to cross over to the 'dark' side, u may wanna check w oscillating cylinder
locos or the next step up to Roundhouse Engineering's UK 1/19th scale live steam models where
the prices and operation wld b much simpler than the Aster or Accucraft expensive models.
There r not nuf (enough) videos on showing how to run live steam models AFTER the (initial) steam up
operation. That video will show everything mentioned in my 1st comment. But maybe, i'm wrong.
Once the livestm loco gets started, it'll behave like a DCC automatic control of everyding, including
the electrified layout control (switches/turnouts). Don't need to touch the live stm loco controls and
just sit 2 miles away till the fuel or water runs out.
5:01 and farted
Wew
It’s just peeing
Shhhh... dont say anything.