Hello Bob, I have a question. I want to add a high output anderson connecter to my aux battery setup. I have a very similar setup to yours. Essentially I want to add the connection you explain at 16:55. Is it ok to run that anderson output connecter to a fuse panel with my aux lights? I dont see why it wouldn't work or be an issue. What are your thoughts. It would be Battery > Anderson Output > Blue Sea Fuse Panel > Light Controller > Lights. Does that make sense? I want to keep the battery portable so the anderson output makes the most sense I think.
Ernesto, that should work well. I use that battery box as a power source whilst camping and connect a range of power uses to it. I use the 50 amp fuse to shield the battery primarily, but I also put a fuse on the components that take power from it - what ever size fuse they need, for example my lights that I run from it need a 10 amp fuse. So there is a 50 amp fuse before the Anderson Plug and then the lights have a 10 amp fuse after their Anderson plug ie: Battery > 50 amp fuse > Anderson plug > 10 Amp fuse > light controller > lights. I also run a compressor off the battery box and it has a different fuse rating again. The 50 amp fuse always remains as the battery protection. Hope that makes sense and hope it helps with your system. Bob
Yes you can. If you are worried about the battery, think of it like a dam, it can fill, whilst you are drinking from it. If you are worried about the 12 volt fridge and the fluctuating voltage as the battery charges, the fridge will deal with it as a matter of course. The fridge I show in the video, happily changes from 12 to 24 volt systems going from cars to trucks, whilst even the Engel fridges of old happily deal with variable voltage inputs. I don't have a fridge wiring diagram to hand, but I imagine there is some form of voltage regulation on the input side. Hope that answers your question.
@@whitedoggarage awesome thx 4 explaining. I wana use a 50A 12V DCDC car charger , to charge battery , while charging my fridge using this battery set up. Do you think it would work? would the DCDC car charger, run the fridge or charge the battery ? im new to this thx!
@@KennyChan-uh6uf Fair question, sort of complicated response however. The DCDC charger will charge the battery. The battery is like a dam with water going in and water going out. The water going in is the charge from the DCDC charger and the water going out is the power going to the fridge. The confusing bit is that the battery only has two terminals and the DCDC charger and fridge are both connected to those terminals. In effect the DCDC charger looks at the system and provides the power (up to 50A) that it determines the system needs. If the battery is full, the charger will taper off the current supplied to the battery, if the battery is low, it will step up the current. The fridge is drawing the current it needs and that current will be the joint contribution of the DCDC charger and the battery. If the DCDC charger is off, all the current will come from the battery, when the DCDC charger is on and supplying the battery, the current will be a bit from the DCDC charger and a bit from the battery. Hope that makes sense.
@@whitedoggarage makes a lot of sense. Should i think about it like this? If 50A from DCDC charger goes in, maybe 5A to fridge, and 45A to battery? and if battery is completely full, then all 50A to fridge?
@@4estrnr472 Not sure what you are thinking there. You don't need to earth the battery when it is not in the car as such, but you need to share the earth part of the circuit with the load or the supply. So if you took the battery box out of the car and connected the unit to power a fridge for example, then the battery box would need an earth connection to the fridge, but not the car if the car was not supplying any current to recharge the battery. The current flows between the positive and negative poles of the battery so any power connection that is in use has to have both a positive and negative lead to the battery. I hope that helps, thanks for the question.
About $900 (Australian) of which about half was the AGM battery. Fullriver AGM batteries are a quality unit. From memory, a Century one I installed for a fella a while ago was half the price of the Fullriver. I cant fault Century as starter batteries, but have heard their AGM batteries are not so good.
Love your work, I'm looking for all the possibilities...120,DC & solar...
No often these days you see someone make something with great care and quality. It’s a pleasure watching your build. Thank you 🙏
Thank you for the kind comment.
Excellent tutorial again. Its like learning from a wise old Uncle, especially the belt and braces jokes ha ha. Well explained and well paced.
Thank you 👍
Thank you for explaining wiring in detail. it's very helpful for me. Thanks
again.
Thank you for the opportunity to help, good luck.
Thank you for watching it and enjoying it 👍👍👍.
bang on mate exactly what i want a removable auxiliary
Excellent, good luck with your build.
Very interesting Bob 👍
very informative as usual Bob - cheers!
Thanks Rob
Hello Bob,
I have a question. I want to add a high output anderson connecter to my aux battery setup. I have a very similar setup to yours. Essentially I want to add the connection you explain at 16:55.
Is it ok to run that anderson output connecter to a fuse panel with my aux lights? I dont see why it wouldn't work or be an issue. What are your thoughts.
It would be Battery > Anderson Output > Blue Sea Fuse Panel > Light Controller > Lights. Does that make sense? I want to keep the battery portable so the anderson output makes the most sense I think.
Ernesto, that should work well. I use that battery box as a power source whilst camping and connect a range of power uses to it. I use the 50 amp fuse to shield the battery primarily, but I also put a fuse on the components that take power from it - what ever size fuse they need, for example my lights that I run from it need a 10 amp fuse. So there is a 50 amp fuse before the Anderson Plug and then the lights have a 10 amp fuse after their Anderson plug ie: Battery > 50 amp fuse > Anderson plug > 10 Amp fuse > light controller > lights. I also run a compressor off the battery box and it has a different fuse rating again. The 50 amp fuse always remains as the battery protection. Hope that makes sense and hope it helps with your system. Bob
Good video mate .
Well done
Thank you.
Dude you’re my idol thanks for the info!!
Thank you.
Great video, thanks
can you charge and discharge at the same time without blowing up a 12v fridge?
Yes you can. If you are worried about the battery, think of it like a dam, it can fill, whilst you are drinking from it. If you are worried about the 12 volt fridge and the fluctuating voltage as the battery charges, the fridge will deal with it as a matter of course. The fridge I show in the video, happily changes from 12 to 24 volt systems going from cars to trucks, whilst even the Engel fridges of old happily deal with variable voltage inputs. I don't have a fridge wiring diagram to hand, but I imagine there is some form of voltage regulation on the input side. Hope that answers your question.
@@whitedoggarage awesome thx 4 explaining. I wana use a 50A 12V DCDC car charger , to charge battery , while charging my fridge using this battery set up. Do you think it would work? would the DCDC car charger, run the fridge or charge the battery ? im new to this thx!
@@KennyChan-uh6uf Fair question, sort of complicated response however. The DCDC charger will charge the battery. The battery is like a dam with water going in and water going out. The water going in is the charge from the DCDC charger and the water going out is the power going to the fridge. The confusing bit is that the battery only has two terminals and the DCDC charger and fridge are both connected to those terminals. In effect the DCDC charger looks at the system and provides the power (up to 50A) that it determines the system needs. If the battery is full, the charger will taper off the current supplied to the battery, if the battery is low, it will step up the current. The fridge is drawing the current it needs and that current will be the joint contribution of the DCDC charger and the battery. If the DCDC charger is off, all the current will come from the battery, when the DCDC charger is on and supplying the battery, the current will be a bit from the DCDC charger and a bit from the battery. Hope that makes sense.
@@whitedoggarage makes a lot of sense. Should i think about it like this? If 50A from DCDC charger goes in, maybe 5A to fridge, and 45A to battery? and if battery is completely full, then all 50A to fridge?
my only concern is, if battery is full, will 50A at 12V destroy my fridge? or no since its still 12v
Question: The ground cable going to the battery input anderson plug, is that also grounded to the common ground location you explained?
Yes it is, all the negative cables share the one common ground. Hope that helps, thanks for the question.
@@whitedoggarage Do you need to earth the auxiliary battery when it’s not in the car? Or will the negative terminal on aux battery be enough?
@@4estrnr472 Not sure what you are thinking there. You don't need to earth the battery when it is not in the car as such, but you need to share the earth part of the circuit with the load or the supply. So if you took the battery box out of the car and connected the unit to power a fridge for example, then the battery box would need an earth connection to the fridge, but not the car if the car was not supplying any current to recharge the battery. The current flows between the positive and negative poles of the battery so any power connection that is in use has to have both a positive and negative lead to the battery. I hope that helps, thanks for the question.
@@whitedoggarage yes that does make sense now thank you! I was confused of this concept but did some more research.
@@4estrnr472 okay, good luck with your build.
Hey mate what were the rough costs of everything together?
About $900 (Australian) of which about half was the AGM battery. Fullriver AGM batteries are a quality unit. From memory, a Century one I installed for a fella a while ago was half the price of the Fullriver. I cant fault Century as starter batteries, but have heard their AGM batteries are not so good.