I have no idea how this video got this long. Timestamps 00:00 Introduction 01:22 Parts Required 02:26 Motor Modification 06:31 Replacing Mini-Q Q2 Motor 09:05 Speed Test 10:49 Durability Test & Test Drive 11:55 Conclusion
What pinion size is it on the mini q q2 ? Might be needing too go smaller for the faster motors too not overheat the esc as quickly. A 7t pinion on the mini-z rear end with the light dash i'd imagine would be pretty close too what you got with the torque tuned 2 motor.
Finally got my Q2 this week. Did the bearing and rear suspension upgrades. It’s a great little car. I only wish they would sell it as a kit. They cracked several parts and the servo wasn’t seated or even straight. Now need to find those cool foam tires.
Thanks Beaver, awesome video. I've been waiting for this video since I have my mini-z 4 years ago, you just answered my question on which capacitor to use. For those who wants to know if there's no capacitor on the 4wd motor, the steering will just jump left and right randomly when motor is running, due to the electronic noise as explained.
I've tried this with my MA-020 except I only took the solders off the stock mini-z motor and re solder everything onto the Torque tuned. But watching this videos cleared a lot of things for me about the purpose of the capacitors. I was gonna try and go with the plasma but looks like it's not a good idea. So thank you!
Yes, you could but they are quite limited in amps as they are lower geared. I make my own from a tiny STC or ATtiny microcontroller and a motor driver or N-Channel MOSFET. I do HotWheels modifcations at 1/64 scale and pretty much use the same as pixelfed.social/p/gbraad/168786405697392640 as you can see in twitter.com/gbraad/status/1295274925729562624 For those who want to understand how to use the (mini) servo controllers... well, you just don't connect the potentiometer. this way it acts like a 360 degrees servo as it can't determine the position.
is the torque tuned 2 motor better than the PN 70T motor, Im running the PN 70T on my mini-z MR03 RWD FHSS and would like to know if the tamiya torque tuned is better? Thank you
Sorry, I don't have the PN 70T. However I'm sure PN will be better because Torque Tuned is not designed for such voltage and the brush just destroys itself very quickly. It's fun to experiment and for when I don't have the access to PN.
i get that power cut with a stock MA-020... what do you think the issue might be? i've only operated the car onece on official track (on the day i bought it) and 3 times in my house on tile floor. the problem started happening after my 2nd run at home.
The power cut is from heat and excessive load so it's either the board is fried (if you haven't changed the motor the board can handle the stock one without trouble) or something is blocking it making the car difficult to run. The latter is more likely if you try and take the wheel part, check if all the wheels are not too tight. Also check the drivetrain if there's any blockage and if there's something stuck in there. Check the battery if the voltage is OK as well, for a rechargeable a fully charged should be around 1.4-1.45V. Another thing that can happen is the heat. Check if there's any sticker residue on the motor as it might block the ventilation.
The motor will fit but these motors draw more power than a standard Tamiya silver motor. If the circuit board was burnt by the standard motor then it won't survive this.
Hi, very interesting video - first time I ever saw a slot car track like that. I had a scalextric track and it was fun controlling the drift but not easy. The one you showed seams easy to drive but I guess there is more to it than meets the eye. A quick question, what size bullet connectors would you recommend for 1/28 GL Racing? I ended up purchasing two motors and that is a practical way to swap the motor. Thanks for sharing
2mm bullet connectors are what you need. I'll be more than enough to handle the power and small enough for this type of car. You don't drive a Mini 4WD, you just build it and tune it according to the track and let it go. Here's a fantastic video from Ars Technica explaining all you need to know about Mini 4WD slot car. ruclips.net/video/2ZZL5i8vOXM/видео.html From what I know it is not really popular in the west. I've seen some clubs and races in Italy and that's about it. Most of the players are in Japan, South East Asia and US. Here in Greece I've talked to a shop (I guess I found the owner) and he said they abandoned it long time ago.
Hi beaver, do you happen to know why some other nameless 130 brushed motors do a burst on speed (which is better than stock) at first, then once you brake/stop then run it becomes slow?
Did you ever get a chance to measure the amp draw on these set-ups? I know brushless is the way to go, but I tend to enjoy building things a little differently. Anyhow, great vids man. I've enjoyed them for all the info and testing you've shared. Thank you!
Unfortunately no, I haven't measured the amps draw. It's also based on different circumstances until the car cuts out so I can't really say how much can this board push in long races.
@@BeaversHobby wow. Thank you for the quick reply. I have some small brushed esc's I want to run in small builds. I also have 2 plasma dash I want to try and see what happens. 😅
@@craziestmonkey If it's a separated ESC then it should work. I had Plasma Dash on a cheap red ESC and the motor worked but the steering servo went crazy and I didn't know where is that coming from so I didn't make a video of it.
I can't find the Q2 ball diff but there's MRC diff being sold separately for spare. They are the same car with different motor mount. The Q2 is for LM motor mount (102mm wheelbase). The MRC is standard size and it's compatible with Mini-Z 98mm. It might need some shims but it'll work. Here are the links. Europe: www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1045_1053&products_id=14223 US: www.kenonhobby.com/MRC-MRC01-Ball-Differential_p_46523.html Asia: www.minircmart.com/product/ball-differential/
@@BeaversHobby sorry, extra question, my variant is the rage rc, which comes with a 1s lipo. As all the others come with 4 x 1.5V cells, can i assume my board / servo / motor can handle 6v also? THANKS!!
@@ShiftyTys Yes, the electronics for all the variants are the same. They just include a different battery so yours will be able to handle 4x 1.5V Alkaline or NiMH too.
If not mistaken, the Plasma Dash can draw from 2 upto 4Amps of power, unlike some of the other motors that top out around 1A. I could be wrong here, but the Plasma is known to be higher current. However, have you tried the Auldey Mini 4WD motors? The Mini 4WD culture here in China is more around high speeds (less on acrobatics, like jumps) so the motors are generally higher speeds (you are racing the other cars). You can even buy sets or individual parts for winding the motors yourself. This is different from the Tamiya 4WD culture where competition revolves more around part selection and 'limited' car modifications to circumvent the track (it feels you are racing the track). mini-4wd.fandom.com/wiki/Plasma-Dash_Motor
It also depends on input voltage too so the amps draw doesn't apply when you use it like this. I haven't tried using Auldey motor with Mini-Z yet but I used to have them when I was a kid. Super fast motors and cheaper as well.
This is the current version of this car so it's different than the previous one I got a while back. The differences can be found in this review. ruclips.net/video/i9iXnSLetkg/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Oh, by the way, could I reprint your video to bilibili?There are lots of mini car fans in China I want to share your video with. Don't worry, I will note the original link address.
Hey beaver I've been looking at your budget builds and I think I'd like to try have a got at building on either k989 like you've suggested to me before or maybe even mini q .. which would you recommend for a first time builder 🤔
It depends on what you want to do. If you want a touring car only for driving normally, Q2 is a good car to start with. Otherwise if you want to do both touring and drifting, K989 is the one to get so you can swap the tyres and have different style of driving.
@@BeaversHobby at the moment I'm looking for drift only as my racer is an mr 03 evo sp .. I've got a standard mr 03 for stock class too but for drift I've got my xrx which I don't think I'm going to last with to tell the truth ( I will try practice) and I love my ma 020 but I'm told by everyone that RWD is better for drift hence why I'd like to run something RWD .. but I need to learn how to build basic kits first 🤔
@@maxbuckley9762 Since you already got MA020 I suggest you use it for drifting. If you get K989, it'll be more or less the same but you'll need to fix a lot of stuffs out of the box to get it working well. I'd say MA020 + front soft springs, rear hard springs, front one way and rear locked or solid axle will drift well. Unless you want a banger or in danger of crashing a lot at high speed, keep drifting what you already have. XRX will get you start with RWD drift very easily too so I don't see a need to get another car.
There are dummy AAA cells that you can put in. They will just connect one side to another. www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-LR03-AAA-Size-Dummy-Fake-Battery-Setup-Shell-Conductor-Placeholder-Cylinder/174215732754
No, these motors won't survive 7.4V let alone 8.4V at full charge. Besides, there're no mounting holes at the front too. You'll have to stick with FK130 or PN Racing motors.
You beat me. I also wanted to ask that question but knew the motor mount is on the front, it might be possible to use the mini q motor mount with the wltoys motor mount but I think there's not enough room for this added motor mount as well!
@@BeaversHobby I once tried mounting a stock Tamiya motor with a modified motor mount from a VS chassis on my WLToys RC. No capacitors, resistors nor voltage regulators. It run for less than 10 seconds at full throttle, and then burnt out (literally). the brush is burnt and the plastic cap is molten.. but it was crazy fast during that 10 seconds.. i guess a voltage regulator and ball bearings at both sides of the motor shafts would help, but didn't bother to do it.
Yes, it works for MR01 too. Although getting a Mini-Z XSpeed is a better solution but if you don't have an access to Mini-Z or PN motors, a modified Tamiya motor will do.
@@vielazriel9811 That's unfortunate. Motor, wheel and bearing are cross compatible with MR02 and 03 but the knuckles and chassis parts are different. The bar that connects the motor pod to the chassis is also different and hard to find nowadays.
I haven't put it in my Mini-Z yet, I'll do it later because I'm changing the motor mount to 98mm wheelbase. But a lot of people are using it already without any problem.
@@BeaversHobby no other stuff takes priority! I was just curious the brushless upgrade was worth doing! I just got the MRC version of the car I was just going to put in a PN 70 motor!
@@maxthunder2 Well, worth it or not is entirely depending on how much you want it out of this car. It's the cheapest and probably the easiest Mini-Z compatible platform to modify so there's that. PN 70T is a nice motor upgrade. Good luck with the project.
I really appreciate the speed tests with these motors. I tried the power dash and even the plasma dash on my mini z buggy but can't run them for more than around 2 min and 30 sec continuously respectively. The motor eventually gets too hot and the esc shuts down. I read somewhere that the ESC boards of the FHSS mini z can take up to 2A. However, I tried Hyper Dash 3 (up to 3A) and it worked fine. But to be on the safe side, I use this motor instead. m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=563837950428&item_id=563837950428 (option B 5-7.4v 1.5A) It's dirt cheap like US$2 and it is fast. I bought 5 for my 3 mini z and 2 as backup. I think this motor can be found on other China online websites. Here's a list of all the Tamiya mini 4wd motors and the specs: www.tamiya.com/english/mini4wd/setupguide/motorguide.pdf
![Test kecepatan Motor Terlarang, Tamiya Plasma Dash Motor [item 15186] [ミニ四駆]](/img/1.gif)
I have no idea how this video got this long.
Timestamps
00:00 Introduction
01:22 Parts Required
02:26 Motor Modification
06:31 Replacing Mini-Q Q2 Motor
09:05 Speed Test
10:49 Durability Test & Test Drive
11:55 Conclusion
What rims do you use with the ds racing lf4 drift tires
@@kieranb1275 Standard Mini-Z AWD rims.
@@BeaversHobby thank you big help just getting into mini drifting
@@kieranb1275 My pleasure.
What pinion size is it on the mini q q2 ?
Might be needing too go smaller for the faster motors too not overheat the esc as quickly.
A 7t pinion on the mini-z rear end with the light dash i'd imagine would be pretty close too what you got with the torque tuned 2 motor.
Just got my MINI Q trq1 today on the mail. Decided to pick it up after watching your budget drift car video. Thanks again!
My pleasure.
Finally got my Q2 this week. Did the bearing and rear suspension upgrades. It’s a great little car. I only wish they would sell it as a kit. They cracked several parts and the servo wasn’t seated or even straight. Now need to find those cool foam tires.
Thanks Beaver, awesome video. I've been waiting for this video since I have my mini-z 4 years ago, you just answered my question on which capacitor to use. For those who wants to know if there's no capacitor on the 4wd motor, the steering will just jump left and right randomly when motor is running, due to the electronic noise as explained.
I've tried this with my MA-020 except I only took the solders off the stock mini-z motor and re solder everything onto the Torque tuned. But watching this videos cleared a lot of things for me about the purpose of the capacitors. I was gonna try and go with the plasma but looks like it's not a good idea. So thank you!
"First, let's burn this board down to the ground." HAHA, awesome!
Great and precise video as always. Did you ever think about build a 1/32 scale Orlandoo crawler? Just curious, I recently ordered one😁
Haven't got one yet.
Good idea. Mini z covers are getting too expensive, slot cars are 1.32
Best 1/27 videos ever
Your explanation is very clear and can follow . Thanks. Blessings.
Appreciate the testing, thanx bro,
Very informative video. Keep up the good job 🙂
You can make ESC from micro servo motor's controller.That ESC is very small-like chip, smaller than ESC-s which you using
I've seen some of that too but never tried one myself. It should be good for small 1/60 car.
@@BeaversHobby you can use it for your 1:28 cars because it's 40A ESC
@@onlinehelper374 Interesting. Thanks for the info.
Yes, you could but they are quite limited in amps as they are lower geared. I make my own from a tiny STC or ATtiny microcontroller and a motor driver or N-Channel MOSFET. I do HotWheels modifcations at 1/64 scale and pretty much use the same as pixelfed.social/p/gbraad/168786405697392640 as you can see in twitter.com/gbraad/status/1295274925729562624 For those who want to understand how to use the (mini) servo controllers... well, you just don't connect the potentiometer. this way it acts like a 360 degrees servo as it can't determine the position.
Great video. Thanks a lot. I have a question: does this system fits on also on mini z buggy?
Regards
Yes, it'll also fit the Mini-Z Buggy.
Thanks for your information
I have a question, why did you solder the capacitor on the dc motor's body?
To reduce the interference.
is the torque tuned 2 motor better than the PN 70T motor, Im running the PN 70T on my mini-z MR03 RWD FHSS and would like to know if the tamiya torque tuned is better? Thank you
Sorry, I don't have the PN 70T. However I'm sure PN will be better because Torque Tuned is not designed for such voltage and the brush just destroys itself very quickly. It's fun to experiment and for when I don't have the access to PN.
i get that power cut with a stock MA-020... what do you think the issue might be? i've only operated the car onece on official track (on the day i bought it) and 3 times in my house on tile floor. the problem started happening after my 2nd run at home.
The power cut is from heat and excessive load so it's either the board is fried (if you haven't changed the motor the board can handle the stock one without trouble) or something is blocking it making the car difficult to run.
The latter is more likely if you try and take the wheel part, check if all the wheels are not too tight. Also check the drivetrain if there's any blockage and if there's something stuck in there. Check the battery if the voltage is OK as well, for a rechargeable a fully charged should be around 1.4-1.45V.
Another thing that can happen is the heat. Check if there's any sticker residue on the motor as it might block the ventilation.
Thanks for top cheers 🥂
Hey! All the links no longer work, would you kindly provide the capacitor and poly switch PN?
Capacitor www.aliexpress.com/item/1005002290441861.html
I'm not sure which poly switch you are referring to though.
Amazing video!
Light and torqtune never faster than hyper dash you should to run-in all of your motor to make top speed
This motor can use for HB Toys 1/24 rc drift ? What part need to change? I try use tamiya motor... the circuit was burn... i use 3.7v battery...
The motor will fit but these motors draw more power than a standard Tamiya silver motor. If the circuit board was burnt by the standard motor then it won't survive this.
Hi, very interesting video - first time I ever saw a slot car track like that. I had a scalextric track and it was fun controlling the drift but not easy. The one you showed seams easy to drive but I guess there is more to it than meets the eye.
A quick question, what size bullet connectors would you recommend for 1/28 GL Racing? I ended up purchasing two motors and that is a practical way to swap the motor.
Thanks for sharing
2mm bullet connectors are what you need. I'll be more than enough to handle the power and small enough for this type of car.
You don't drive a Mini 4WD, you just build it and tune it according to the track and let it go.
Here's a fantastic video from Ars Technica explaining all you need to know about Mini 4WD slot car. ruclips.net/video/2ZZL5i8vOXM/видео.html
From what I know it is not really popular in the west. I've seen some clubs and races in Italy and that's about it. Most of the players are in Japan, South East Asia and US. Here in Greece I've talked to a shop (I guess I found the owner) and he said they abandoned it long time ago.
Hi beaver, do you happen to know why some other nameless 130 brushed motors do a burst on speed (which is better than stock) at first, then once you brake/stop then run it becomes slow?
That's probably something with the board cutting out power.
Did you ever get a chance to measure the amp draw on these set-ups? I know brushless is the way to go, but I tend to enjoy building things a little differently. Anyhow, great vids man. I've enjoyed them for all the info and testing you've shared. Thank you!
Unfortunately no, I haven't measured the amps draw. It's also based on different circumstances until the car cuts out so I can't really say how much can this board push in long races.
@@BeaversHobby wow. Thank you for the quick reply. I have some small brushed esc's I want to run in small builds. I also have 2 plasma dash I want to try and see what happens. 😅
@@craziestmonkey If it's a separated ESC then it should work. I had Plasma Dash on a cheap red ESC and the motor worked but the steering servo went crazy and I didn't know where is that coming from so I didn't make a video of it.
@@BeaversHobby Awesome. That's good to hear. I'm gonna have to give it a shot and see how it turns out.
I have a an xmod with a 30amp esc and 7.4 k989 battery...will the plasma motor run on it? Or will it burn?
Plasma motor won't survive 2S lipo.
Where I can buy this ball diff Q2? Is it compatible with miniz 98mm?
I can't find the Q2 ball diff but there's MRC diff being sold separately for spare. They are the same car with different motor mount.
The Q2 is for LM motor mount (102mm wheelbase).
The MRC is standard size and it's compatible with Mini-Z 98mm. It might need some shims but it'll work.
Here are the links.
Europe: www.minizracing.it/minizshop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1045_1053&products_id=14223
US: www.kenonhobby.com/MRC-MRC01-Ball-Differential_p_46523.html
Asia: www.minircmart.com/product/ball-differential/
@@BeaversHobby mrc is all plastic?
@@Ruben3D Yes, it's all plastic. It's essentially Q2 with front suspension cover and different motor mount anyway.
@@BeaversHobby ok thx I will go to pn ball diff
@@Ruben3D PN will last you much longer and smoother as well. It's like 4x the price but it'll worth it.
Is there any alternative to oryginal 130 brushed motor from k989 or only original engine will survive 7,4 volts?
There are FP130 motors 6V on aliexpress or ebay you can use. PN Racing motors also work with 7.4V too.
Hey can I used tamiya Mini4wd body to mini z
Hey I’m buying a new esc do the amps matter or not?
Generally, yes, the Ampre matters. But at this scale anything will work providing the ESC is good enough and not struggling to get the car rolling.
Will the torque tuned work in the trq1 stock board? Or will it fry? Thanks in advance my friend!
Yes, it will. The board is more or less the same as this one.
@@BeaversHobby so it has all the safety features too? So no "LETS BURN IT TO THE GROUND"? lol.
@@ShiftyTys Yeah, it ended up having safety so I couldn't burn it.
@@BeaversHobby sorry, extra question, my variant is the rage rc, which comes with a 1s lipo. As all the others come with 4 x 1.5V cells, can i assume my board / servo / motor can handle 6v also?
THANKS!!
@@ShiftyTys Yes, the electronics for all the variants are the same. They just include a different battery so yours will be able to handle 4x 1.5V Alkaline or NiMH too.
Amazing!
If not mistaken, the Plasma Dash can draw from 2 upto 4Amps of power, unlike some of the other motors that top out around 1A. I could be wrong here, but the Plasma is known to be higher current. However, have you tried the Auldey Mini 4WD motors? The Mini 4WD culture here in China is more around high speeds (less on acrobatics, like jumps) so the motors are generally higher speeds (you are racing the other cars). You can even buy sets or individual parts for winding the motors yourself. This is different from the Tamiya 4WD culture where competition revolves more around part selection and 'limited' car modifications to circumvent the track (it feels you are racing the track).
mini-4wd.fandom.com/wiki/Plasma-Dash_Motor
It also depends on input voltage too so the amps draw doesn't apply when you use it like this.
I haven't tried using Auldey motor with Mini-Z yet but I used to have them when I was a kid. Super fast motors and cheaper as well.
Cool vid
Nice it's omg trick
Great video! But I still have a question, the motorwires of the board look quite different from the original, have you already upgraded the board?
This is the current version of this car so it's different than the previous one I got a while back. The differences can be found in this review. ruclips.net/video/i9iXnSLetkg/видео.html
@@BeaversHobby Thanks a lot. I'm quite looking forward to your brushless upgrade. '
@@BeaversHobby Oh, by the way, could I reprint your video to bilibili?There are lots of mini car fans in China I want to share your video with. Don't worry, I will note the original link address.
@@keyisong9789 Yes, sure. As far as I know China doesn't have access to any Google services including RUclips, isn't it? Feel free to post it there.
good evening to you
for the tamiya sport tuned 2
the electronics do not heat up and it takes time?
thank you
The electronics did heat up but with Torque Tuned it wasn't too much that it cut out.
@@BeaversHobby Good evening
ok, suddenly, which motor to take without the electronics heating up and being reliable apart from the origin?
@@jean-lucdesenne3840 Torque Tuned 2 with brushes installed.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much and keep it up
do not change anything
@ +
@@jean-lucdesenne3840 My pleasure.
So is the light dash faster than the upgrade mini z motor?
Yes, it is a tad faster. However it doesn't have as much torque as X-Speed.
Thanks buddy!
@@timothyandelmo541 My pleasure.
Great video, does Mini-z MR03 board can handle TORQUE-TUNED 2 motor with no issue ? thanks
Yes, it can. Don't forget to install the carbon brushes as well.
@@BeaversHobby Great. just got a few of them (Torque Tuned 2/Atomc Tunned/Light Dash). Can't wait to test it on Mini-Z. Thanks Beaver.
Nice
Hey beaver I've been looking at your budget builds and I think I'd like to try have a got at building on either k989 like you've suggested to me before or maybe even mini q .. which would you recommend for a first time builder 🤔
It depends on what you want to do. If you want a touring car only for driving normally, Q2 is a good car to start with. Otherwise if you want to do both touring and drifting, K989 is the one to get so you can swap the tyres and have different style of driving.
@@BeaversHobby at the moment I'm looking for drift only as my racer is an mr 03 evo sp .. I've got a standard mr 03 for stock class too but for drift I've got my xrx which I don't think I'm going to last with to tell the truth ( I will try practice) and I love my ma 020 but I'm told by everyone that RWD is better for drift hence why I'd like to run something RWD .. but I need to learn how to build basic kits first 🤔
@@maxbuckley9762 Since you already got MA020 I suggest you use it for drifting. If you get K989, it'll be more or less the same but you'll need to fix a lot of stuffs out of the box to get it working well.
I'd say MA020 + front soft springs, rear hard springs, front one way and rear locked or solid axle will drift well.
Unless you want a banger or in danger of crashing a lot at high speed, keep drifting what you already have. XRX will get you start with RWD drift very easily too so I don't see a need to get another car.
How do we use a 4 aa holder with one battery only?
There are dummy AAA cells that you can put in. They will just connect one side to another. www.ebay.com/itm/4Pcs-LR03-AAA-Size-Dummy-Fake-Battery-Setup-Shell-Conductor-Placeholder-Cylinder/174215732754
Beaver's Hobby how did you do it in this video?
@@narrowempress1625 I use all 4 AAA in the car.
Beaver's Hobby but how did you run a motor on 1.2v with a 4 aa battery holder?
@@narrowempress1625 Oh, you meant the run-in. I bent a paperclip to size and put it in instead of another battery.
Whats the point of carbon brushes
They need to be installed otherwise the terminals will get burnt from over-voltage.
where can i buy that rc
Mini-Q Q2 is available on Banggood. bit.ly/2PJ8JHw
Do you have a link to that awesome sordering iron :)
Yes, it's a bit pricey but it's worth the money.
bit.ly/2wvURtL
I also have a review for it. ruclips.net/video/HOchoQJ1cjc/видео.html
Would you recommend the same motor for the wltoys ESC?
No, these motors won't survive 7.4V let alone 8.4V at full charge. Besides, there're no mounting holes at the front too. You'll have to stick with FK130 or PN Racing motors.
You beat me. I also wanted to ask that question but knew the motor mount is on the front, it might be possible to use the mini q motor mount with the wltoys motor mount but I think there's not enough room for this added motor mount as well!
@@davidfurguson5215 Mini-Q motor mount also uses front mounting holes as well. 3D printer will solve every problem though.
@@BeaversHobby I once tried mounting a stock Tamiya motor with a modified motor mount from a VS chassis on my WLToys RC. No capacitors, resistors nor voltage regulators. It run for less than 10 seconds at full throttle, and then burnt out (literally). the brush is burnt and the plastic cap is molten.. but it was crazy fast during that 10 seconds.. i guess a voltage regulator and ball bearings at both sides of the motor shafts would help, but didn't bother to do it.
@@macheno4 Yeah, the voltage is too much for the motor to handle.
Hello is this possible for mr01?
Yes, it works for MR01 too. Although getting a Mini-Z XSpeed is a better solution but if you don't have an access to Mini-Z or PN motors, a modified Tamiya motor will do.
@@BeaversHobby it's very hard to access parts specially the old ones 🤣 just thinking of selling it or keeping it on display
@@vielazriel9811 That's unfortunate. Motor, wheel and bearing are cross compatible with MR02 and 03 but the knuckles and chassis parts are different. The bar that connects the motor pod to the chassis is also different and hard to find nowadays.
What rims do you use with the ds racing lf4 drift tires ?
Standard Mini-Z wheels.
Front: bit.ly/2WSecRf
Rear: bit.ly/2znzs3K
You can also order the tyres with all narrow so you'll use 2 sets of front wheels.
@@BeaversHobby thank you very much
@@kieranb1275 Always a pleasure.
This motors fits on wltoys 284131?
No, it doesn't.
@@BeaversHobby thanks. Love your videos
@@BeaversHobby in our other videos, the links for the products dosent works. Can you tell me where do you buy the mini-z bodies that fit on 284131?
Do you think first mini-z can handle plasma dash?Im new to rc world lol
I don't think it'd work. Even though it runs on 2 AAA but the board isn't that powerful.
I see...thankyou bro😁
@@Hafizneo My pleasure.
How about power dash
It's a bit above Hyper Dash so that's a no.
Have you tried it on the Mini-z?
I haven't put it in my Mini-Z yet, I'll do it later because I'm changing the motor mount to 98mm wheelbase. But a lot of people are using it already without any problem.
What battery are you using bro?
Ikea Ladda AAA 900mAh
www.ikea.com/gb/en/p/ladda-rechargeable-battery-90303880/
Do you come from Thailand?.?
Originally, yes.
Did you ever do the brushless motor upgrade to this car?
Sorry for the delay. I've been very busy with other projects. I'll get to this one eventually.
@@BeaversHobby no other stuff takes priority! I was just curious the brushless upgrade was worth doing! I just got the MRC version of the car I was just going to put in a PN 70 motor!
@@maxthunder2 Well, worth it or not is entirely depending on how much you want it out of this car. It's the cheapest and probably the easiest Mini-Z compatible platform to modify so there's that.
PN 70T is a nice motor upgrade. Good luck with the project.
Notification squad
I really appreciate the speed tests with these motors. I tried the power dash and even the plasma dash on my mini z buggy but can't run them for more than around 2 min and 30 sec continuously respectively. The motor eventually gets too hot and the esc shuts down. I read somewhere that the ESC boards of the FHSS mini z can take up to 2A. However, I tried Hyper Dash 3 (up to 3A) and it worked fine. But to be on the safe side, I use this motor instead.
m.intl.taobao.com/detail/detail.html?id=563837950428&item_id=563837950428 (option B 5-7.4v 1.5A) It's dirt cheap like US$2 and it is fast. I bought 5 for my 3 mini z and 2 as backup. I think this motor can be found on other China online websites.
Here's a list of all the Tamiya mini 4wd motors and the specs:
www.tamiya.com/english/mini4wd/setupguide/motorguide.pdf
That's very nice looking motor. Almost like the Atomic brushed motor they stopped making years ago and of course, Plasma Dash.
@@BeaversHobby Don't burn the board! Keep it as a spare or convert the mini 4wd into a semi rc car so you can control the throttle like a slot car.
@@Diamondbac Fantastic idea!
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