8 Tools Under $20 YOU Said to Buy
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- Опубликовано: 27 сен 2024
- 8 woodworking tools all under $20! Pick up these cool tools to help you with your DIY & woodworking projects.
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Pentel Graph Gear 1000 - amzn.to/49FF7BM
Pica Mechanical Pencil - amzn.to/3P3069h
Pica White Lead - amzn.to/3Vahnl7
Stud Buddy - amzn.to/3QOlIUU
Olfa Utility Knife - amzn.to/3xthzPt
Snap Off Utility Knife - amzn.to/3ziQ3DW
Tongue Depressors - amzn.to/3eGpiQr
Coffee Stirrers - amzn.to/3qHP111
Drinking Straws - amzn.to/3BnUMFR
Kreg Multi-Mark - amzn.to/48HY9pO
Silicone Glue Trays - amzn.to/4bYf5LD
Glue Spreaders - amzn.to/3V5kLxn
Tire Depth Gauge - amzn.to/3djWpg2
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Better than the stud buddy, the CH Hanson magnetic stud finder, simply because it has a built-in level with the ability to rotate. Just under $10.
FYI, You don't even have to disassemble your stanley knife to get a new blade. push it all the way forward and the old blade will release and you can pull it out the front, then pull the slider all the way back to load a new blade.
See
In some countries it's actually illegal to have a knife of any kind, even if you are a trades person, that you can expose and hide the blade of with one hand.
uni Kuru Toga 0.5 mm High Grade Auto Lead Rotation Mechanical Pencil
The tip rotates, in order to keep a new face on the surface you're working on, thus kinda auto sharpens.
Will admit, for working on wood... maybe doesn't work as well, but for draft work, best mechanical pencil that isn't a Rotring.
You don’t need to take the wheel off to change the blade on the Olfa. Just loosen past where it catches on the body. At that’s how mine works.
Yeah, changing blades on the Olfa is at least as fast as on the Stanley if you don't overcomplicate it by completely removing the knob and spring.
Came to say the same thing. Something to add, though, is that Olfa blades are known to be thicker/stronger, making them more useful for people that cut thicker materials like foam boards, insulation, etc. You essentially have a long disposable knife that holds up better than trying to do the same with regular snap off blades. The front support is also supposed to be helpful in supporting the blade as it flexes, letting it flex without breaking better than others, though I can't vouch for that.
Haha, I was coming here to say that too, as someone who uses one almost daily. And I bought a diamond sharpening pad which I use to resharpen the blades while they're still installed, because I'm cheap AF.
@@DavZell Olfa also has the black "high carbon" blades that last a lot longer
Also, as a parent of two small children, i really like that I can properly lock the blade :)
The best feature about the Pentel pencil is that when you retract the tip and then re-extend it, the lead stays at the previous position so you don’t have to click until you get it where you were using it before. This might seem trivial, but it’s great if you are holding something and don’t want to look away to set the lead extension to where it’s usable.
Nice. I used pencils in school but don't need them now. I like the idea of protecting the tip from bending which has happened more than stabbing myself that one time
While it appears to be a very rugged metal bodied construction, you do need to take care not to drop it to the floor because the middle joint is plastic and can fracture.
My favorite part of the design is the clip, which allows it to accommodate thick pocket material easily and holds securely. Retraction mechanism has a nice solid click that serves as a fidget toy to boot 🙃
@@thealchemist5376 what does the replacement collar do?
@@dubmob151 It replaces the plastic collar (the part under the grip and which connects to the main body) with an aluminium one, or whichever material you want. Much more sturdy!
@@thealchemist5376 that's just the ticket for making it perfect 👍
I’m surprised nobody has mentioned a 5-in-1 painters tool yet. As a carpenter, that’s one of my most used tools! Great for scraping, prying, chiseling, or, y’know, painter things too probably
mine also has a bottle opener as well. great tool
Agree
Yup. Very handy.
@@whasian1487 well now that is a 6-in-1
He actually had one in his previous video
One of my favourites is a combo of dollar store craft foam and double- sided tape. Use the tape to stick sandpaper to the foam - I typically cut them approx 2" × 3" unless for something specific. These are great for sanding small or tight areas where you would probably otherwise just grab a scrap of sandpaper and try to fold it to give it some substance, only to have the paper getting frustratingly crumbled before the grit or job is done. This way is easier to grip, flex into and around spaces, and lasts longer. You can also use a permanent marker to write the grit on the foam.
For mixing up just a little bit of epoxy, the best thing I've found is something you had in the video.
Just flip a Dew can upside down and use the bottom.
Straw/Glue Tip:
If you wait for the glue to slightly dry to a putty consistency, the straws work even better!
Can't buy plastic straws in Australia - not environmentally friendly!! Sheesh, as if that is going to save the world.
@@michaelobrien4259 Same thing in Canada. Only paper straws now.
@@NorthVanDukeOfDirt I was coming too look for/leave this kind of comment. I didn't want to be that guy either, as I use straws all the time (I don't like single use plastics and try to wash/reuse what I can), but I'd like to know if paper straws would work as well in this application.
Now that I think about it, one straw could probably be used for this many times though. After use, just cut off the used tip and throw out. Probably only really uses about a 1/4 in of the straw with each use.
To be fair to the tire depth gauge, if you're needing 1/64" accuracy, you're not a woodworker, you're a cellulose machinist, and your projects can never leave the climate-controlled environment they're assembled in. ;)
😂 😂 True
Not completely true. Doing dove tails gaps are hideous and need a lot more accuracy than a picnic table
And wood that's dry enough for your region won't warp like construction lumber or pressure treated. As long as it has a good finish and not going into a home with no Insulation
"cellulose machinist"... perfect... I'm gonna steal this.
@@woodworkingandepoxy643 Eh, a good router and jig were good enough for Norm on dovetails.
The 123 blocks are a tool you never knew you needed until you get them! Love them lol
The Kreg marking tool also has a recess that enables you to space door trim around a frame.
Oh, nice little hidden feature!
That is a great feature!
One of my favorite oddball cheap tools is a hemostat. Cheap ones from the cheapo tool store are like $7, but usually have a sloppy pivot and the jaws don't line up well. Spend a few bucks more on a well made pair and the are the best needle nose pliers.
I think what you really want more than a hemostat are surgical needle holders. They are far sturdier and have a better grip.
Glue bottles!
The Glubot (made by fast cap) is a total game changer.
I also like the Rockler glue bottle that has a roller built into the lid. The glue dispenses directly onto the roller, so it's really easy to spread around.
Best idea of the year. 1-2-3 block in nominal lumber sizes. Brilliant.
I didn't think I had a suggestion, but it turns out I do! You - and many of us - use the little Dixie cups for mixing and pouring small quantities of glue or paint or whatever. But, when you need to mix a small amount of epoxy, you simply cannot beat a plastic spoon. Used in conjunction with a toothpick (or one of those coffee stirrers, the bowl provides the perfect shape for mixing and encouraging the catalytic action. Grab one out of the back of your utensil drawer (from the last time you got take-out) and give it a try!
You can get Olfa knives with the button instead of the dial if that's what you prefer. You also don't take the dial off to change the blade, you just back it off enough for it to clear the stop.
😂 😂 That makes a lot more sense
Yes they have multiple styles and sizes. The biggest advantage I feel is that Olfa is made of fiberglass and not plastic. I've dropped mine numerous times and it's tough as S.
We use 1 2 3 blocks a lot in prop/costumes making. They are great for everything, even down to using them as pattern weights when you are tracing out your patterns.
I have, I believe that exact Olfal knife. You do NOT need to completely unscrew the bits from under the wheel to remove the blade stub for replacement. Once the wheel is loose enough, it just slides out the back and you hook on another blade.
A case of operator error. The olfa is simply better.
The studbuddy has advantages: it's big and colorful so you can find it. Its strong magnet has a cover so it won't stick to other tools in the toolbox.
I use a kitchen rubber spatula as a glue spreader. It's great on edges or flat surfaces. You don't need to wash it, just let the glue dry, it'll get off easily
The silicone ones are even better.
I liked the straw approach to dealing with glue in tight places. Straws and other single use plastics are being banned in many jurisdictions. Suggest DIY'ers consider using the V-notch tool that comes with silicone placement and removal kits. This tool is reusable and will help to keep plastics out of landfills and the environment.
Indeed I'd rather wet a paper towel and toss it after I couldn't get anymore use. At least that won't take 500 years to biodegrade. The other problem with these single use plastics is that they become part of our beaches as plastic shards and pebbles.
What he should really be buying is paper straws if he wants something disposable. You can buy 200 packs for about $7. Or a 600 pack(Kingseal brand on Amazon) for $10.
Totally agree with the issue of single-use plastics. That said, straws are handy since when you've got a glue-up with clamps, straws will allow you to come in from the side(s) in tight spaces to get the glue before it sets. Nick's idea of paper straws might work but I haven't tried it.
Saw one video where someone bundled straws together and put them in the end of their shop vac hose. With this, they vacuumed out wood chips that were in their small parts tray without worry of sucking up any screws, nuts or washers.
My dad was a machinist. He would have found it amusing that the 1-2-3 block sold on Amazon are machined to a tolerance of one thousandth of an inch on each surface, but of the 15 holes though which you are supposed to be able to pass a bolt, most are the wrong size. An Amazon review reads “the unthreaded holes are too small diameter to clear the threaded fastener that would go into the threaded hole in the adjacent block. Hence making them useless as an assembly” I think that is hysterical. I have two of these and don’t need to worry about making assemblies since I am a woodworker, but the holes being the wrong size is something I find more than amusing.
One tool accessory that I love for spray painting is the Rust Oleum "High Performance Comfort Spray Grip Accessory". Last I checked, it's about $11.50 at Home Depot and makes spray painting anything so much easier!
Right after your video, I found a Woodcraft store about 15 minutes from my house (I must have passed by it 100 times). What a great store. I'm glad I saw your video.
Great video, as a machinist I used 1-2-3 blocks at work at all the time. Then when I started working on my house and doing other projects, i found them very useful around the house as well. I've been legitimately surprised at the quality or some of the ones i've bought for cheap online. They aren't quite as good as ones i've made or high end ones i've bought, but I don't need them to be within .0001" for house projects.
Yes, agreed. I was pleseantly surprised by the squareness
I've never been a machinist but I bought 123 blocks and they have been handy in some unexpected ways. Also makes a reasonable guide for drilling square.
I found myself using 123 blocks as paper weights in my shop for when plans wanted to roll themselves up. So my son, who uses mostly exocit wood in his work made me some 123 blocks out of some purple heart and Lignum vite. Not particularly accurate but nice to have and better to use as paper weights.
Yeah I didn't know people used them outside of machining
3-2-1 blocks are machined within hundreds, thousandths, or ten thousandths of an inch so that you can set your tool offsets when using a CNC machine or just making sure you have your tool set up properly if you have a regular end mill
Just make sure to remove it from the table after using it lol
I've seen people crash machines from leaving one in a machine before they ran it
They're not really made for woodworking, so unless you're using it for something like setting up a planer or router table you're probably better off using a scrap piece of wood
@@raidzeromatt I think you missed the point, they have many uses outside machining.
I use WoodRiver Silicone Glue Roller 12.99 at the Franklin Woodcraft, Yes it's my Woodcraft store. Nice folks there. I glue several wide pieces together, spreads glue quickly and evenly. Easy to clean too. Thanks Brad, I hope to meet you at the Woodcraft one day.
I love the Kreg Multi Mark for fastening casing around doors and windows. I don't think you mentioned that there is 3/16" reveal on the back of the Kreg Tool. Simply register the tool against the door/window jamb and then place the casing against the tool and you will get perfect reveals on all sides.
I have had the Olfa for over 20 years and still going strong. Can't beat it.
I also really like the mechanism for extending the blade of the Stanley vs the Olfa. Also, those blades are super easy to sharpen, you should hardly ever have to replace them. Between your other video and this one I'm definitely making a great list of things I need.
You sharpen them ? Lmao
The real benefit with the olfa knife is when using hook blades, holds the blade in place better and prevents it from pulling out when cutting. Also you don't need to completely unscrew and disassemble the blade holder to slide it out the back. I use these all day every day roofing and after trying a dozen other knifes the olfa is still best all around.
On the kreg multi mark it’s also used for setting the reveal on trim molding. That is why it’s stepped on the back side of it. So it has more value then just marking lines in the shop.
I use this gem when drilling out drawer and door fronts of cabinets to make sure the handles/knobs are straight. Can be used to sort out your coffee can of drill bits if it's not etched on the drill itself. It's called the Handheld Drill guide(Milescraft specifically due to rubber footings for non-slip). It's cost is around ~$8. I use this on a daily.
Awesome videos. Adding more to my collection after every video. Thank you.
1:35 the Graph Gear pencil is available in different lead sizes (each are a different color grips on the pencil, so easy to identify)
1=2=3 blocks are great for quick jigs on a drill press as you can secure them quickly via the threaded holes to the table. They are also incredibly useful holding things to a CNC table surface.
I always have a couple by my CNC. I use them for a lot including using them as touch plates to set my z-zero. Gotta love a conductive surface that is exactly 1" thick!
Olfa blades are wonderful but you've got to try the version with the auto-lock instead of the tedious twist-lock version. I suggest the autolock model with the multi-pick feature, it is super handy for scoring cardboard and other jobs that require a thick dull edge. I've worked as an art handler for 10 years and that Olfa is my go to knife.
Brad, you'd be proud of me. Finally bit the bullet and bought a sawstop. Just the 3hp cabinet saw, but i love it
Your fingers and hands are more proud of you 😀👍
Great video. Been watching you for about a year now and you never fail to deliver. Also, saw your video on "6 Ways to Reduce Planer Snipe" and almost didn't recognize you, but you were delivering great info back then as well.
Thanks,
Red
I have been using a Graph Gear 500 in .9 lead size as a construction pencil for years. The .9 is quite a bit sturdier and will hold up to writing across grain etc. It also shows up on metal pretty well and does not get ruined by grease, oil, etc.
I may have to check out one of those 1000 models for the other features, the 500 has a bit of a pointy end.
I have had both and the 1000 is significantly better
@@kylekinsey2624 Just received my order from Jet Pens. Yes the 1000 is worth the extra money. That is a bomber writing instrument. I use it with HB lead and can write on about anything including glass.
Just want to say thank you for running an extremely relevant sponsored segment (rather than garbage I needed to fast-forward through). A really cool-looking store I've never heard of with lots of pictures of the inside and some fun/cheap/useful products they have there. It was perfect.
The Pentel GRAPHGEAR is my go to with the .7
I love the weight of those pencils and the safety keeps it from poking your pocket.
Thanks for the videos 👍
bare with me here.
A simple plastic sleeve folder.
I do my plans on sketchup, a cut list on the side. print it. and add it to the folder. dust doesn't get in and it keeps water out.
Great info on the tools. Also, I'm not gonna lie, I'll be *so* glad when the fad of inserting movie clips into RUclips videos has ended.
😂 😂 I can see it fading in time. But I still find it fun to rehash old movies I loved
I've been using a graph gear since freshman year of college and have been using one ever since (12+yrs). Best mechanical pencil ever. Period.
For snapoff utility knives, I really like the NT Cutter. It doesn't have a locking knob (like your Stanley), and it fits my hand really nice. The locking mechanism on my 5 or 6 different NT Cutters (I have them everywhere in the shop, garage, and house) has never failed. I like it much more than the Stanley one I used to love. Oh, and they're like $8.
They make the Pica mechanical pencil in 0.3, 0.4, 0.5, 0.7, and 0.9. While I like the thinner 3/4/5 sizes for drawing, I find the 7/9 better suited for marking lumber in the shop.
I’ve had three of those .5mm pencils. Just wait until you drop it. Yeah, the tip might be protected, but the lead isn’t. It breaks into several pieces, which you then need to dig out. PITA. I love its design, it feels good in my hand, and it draws beautiful lines on wood. Then I drop it, and hate it. Maybe I should install carpet my garage.
They make that Graph Gear pen in 0.9mm also. Maybe even something bigger. I have it in 0.9mm.
Wooden manicure sticks work well for getting into tight glue joints. They have 2 different angled ends and have come in handy multiple times in my shop. $5 for 100 on Amazon.
I can't remember who it was (I thought it was you but apparently not) but they used heart shape novelty straws from amazon to get clue out. The shape was perfect for getting glue out of corners. Fast food places are always giving me too many straws so I've never had to buy any so far even while using this trick.
I used 1-2-3 blocks for years as a machinist and they are very handy and yes I have a set on my workbench and use them often for a variety of things!
Where do you buy them?
@@redmeeko I believe if I remember correctly I ordered mine from Amazon or Starrett, I can’t remember but most likely they would be cheaper on Amazon like $20 - $22 for a pair and starrett would probably be a little more.
The Pentel Orenz PP505 (second favorite after the GG1000) is not as sturdy or well-engineered but the sleeve retracts while you're writing, making it great for marking fine, accurate, long lines. I use the Orenz (0.5 mm HB) exclusively for fine marking and keep it with my Incra rules and use the GG1000 (0.5 mm HB) as my writing pencil. For lumber/inaccurate marking, I use a Staedtler Mars 780 (2mm 2H).
I use a pentel draftsman "lead holder." I have four of them in different colors for different contrast on material. They have a sharpener in the cap, which is very nice.
I use a cattle magnet . It's capsule shaped . About 3 inches long . You can find them at a feed store (farming) . They use them to get metal fragments out of cattle . Grossly speaking , they are used as a suppository. You get a wire cap and drill a hole through the top of cap , and thread a string of twine through it . And then use tape to fasten the cap to the end of the magnet . When held like a plumb Bob, it will roll to the center of a nail , screw or edge of a metal stud .
I'm with you on the Olfa knife. It's more complicated than necessary and there's no on-board blade storage. I got used to keeping my thumb on the blade retractor, and almost never have a problem with the blade moving no matter what knife I use.. That said, the Olfa blades are phenomenal. They stay sharp much longer than others I've tried. I know they cost twice as much as some other name brands, but in my experience they last at least twice as long.
I also keep a 1-2-3 block at my table saw, and I use it as a stop with my mitre gauge. The beauty of it is I can easily choose how much extra space to leave between the blade and fence depending on the size of the off-cuts. I use one inch most of the time because it's nearly impossible to mess up the math, but I can switch to 3" if I need to.
Kudos to the way you've merged your sponsor in here.
One of the only sponsor breaks i didnt skip so far and i know youtoube from its beginnings
Great tools. The straw thing annoys me though. I hate recommending wasting plastic for the landfill to clean a little glue that a bio-degradable rag and water can do. I just think we need to be more responsible with our consumables IMHO. Maybe a paper straw works just as well?
What's wrong with plastic sitting in a landfill?
Get the biodegradable straws.
Silicone pastry mat and silicone pastry brushes for gluing
Literally have had my greg multi-mark forever and didnt realize you had a slot on the back for the 45 degree angle. So much for reading the instructions i guess. Thanks. lol
I have that exact same combination square tool and it actually belonged to my grand father before, he gave it to me and i use it alot now!
I use automotive Bondo spreaders for larger glue ups and I have had them for 50 years and still going strong. I always have lots of various plastic lids coming through and I use those for glue ups and if I wasn't lazy the glue pops off but I just toss them when done (I have 50 on hand at the moment), we go through a lot of cottage cheese and the containers make good paint/finish mixing containers. Popsicle sticks from the dollar store for epoxy glue and toss when done. For furniture restoration I use a long artist paint brush with the hide glue and clean it with a little dish soap and water. I use a antique tire gauge as well.
Those rubber jar opener things for your kitchen - stick um in your vices to get better surface area grip on odd shapes and smooth items - like glass that you can't tighten down hard on.
Also their intended function is helpful when you got graphite, oil, grease, etc on your hands already. So handy in the garage too!
I have that stud finder it’s a life saver especially in older homes.
I bought my 1-2-3 block when I was working as a CNC machine operator but I use them in the wood shop all the time.
As an engineer myself, I agree, you can never have enough cool mechanical pencils! The graphgear 1000 that you showed does come in .7 and .9 leads as well. I ended up getting the graphgear 500 with .9 lead because it was just as cool, about half the price, and came in a much nicer silver than the yellow of the .9 1000. The 500 did not, however, have the special safety retractable tip :(
1-2-3 blocks are pretty useful. Use them for QC measurements running a microvu to inspect parts at work.
Great video! A can of paste wax can be really handy for lots of jobs - waxing a table saw top, assisting screws going into hardwoods, etc.
I have also used a block of parifin (Gulf Wax) or an old candle.
Taylor Toolworks has 123 blocks for 18.89, and LOTS of machinists' tools (squares, etc.) that are definitely precise enough for woodworking. Most of their things are pretty economical, some are even kinda cheap, some are top notch. (They ain't gonna put Woodcrafters or Woodpeckers out of business, just yet, but definitely worth a look.)
Depending on the tolerance, the 1-2-3 blocks can also make good parallels for machining.
Wing dividers and a speed square are some of the most used tools in my shop.
Your grandpa and I have the exact same combination square. I bought mine when I graduated trade school in 1969 as a patternmaker. Happily retired now.
WOW the fact you can still buy plastic straws in the States, they have been band in Australia can only find paper straws here. I have not seen plastic straws since last November now when I bought all of the ones from our local supermarket 😹😹😹 always used them for cleaning up glue squeeze out as I can then squeeze out the glue from the straw onto the next item for gluing up as I go.
Some of the other tools you were showing looked handy to have around.
For the silicon spreader I bought a silicon pastry brush from the supermarket.
1,2,3 blocks are really handy if your gluing up right angles as well they are used by model builders all the time. I still have to get as set but they are soooo expensive in Australia 😿
Circular saw rip guide can usually be had for under $20 if you don't have access to a table saw
I have been using that exact Olfa for 25 years (book binder). You get to the point where you can adjust it with one hand and I have never even seen that bit of metal you took out to change the blade. Removing it is not required. (love that pencil in your other vid. going to go get one!).
You had me at that coffee stirrer from lowes! 🤣🤣🤣
Those 1,2,3 blocks are also great to clamp to for ensuring square.
You may already have this in the shop, but a bag of rubber bands are good to have if you make small boxes or need more clamping pressure than tape but less that a spring clamp.
for the olfa knife, just unscrew the wheel until it clears the nub on the body. ive had an olfa for years and years, they are awesome. my biggest thing, is sometimes ill get a metal sliver, and ill use my olfa knife to extract the splinter. i just expose a tiny bit of the blade so that if i slip, its just a tiny cut maybe 1 or 2 layers deep instead of a gash haha! theres many more reasons why i like the olfa vs a set position blade holder, but this was honestly the most relevant reason haha!
EXACTLY, you have way more control over blade depth. extremely important for different thicknesses of cardboard or other materials.
Best utility knife ever made is the Nack knife. 15 blades loaded in and when one blade is dull just click it to move to the next. Amazing for flooring, drywalling, or any other applications you need more then one blade for.
Very random, I'm a whip maker and I use my 123 blocks constantly. I have the solid steel versions without the holes and they are a MUST have for me. Adam Savage introduced me to them on a TESTED video and they're awesome.
Pics is my favorite pencil. I carry it daily, even to Church on Sunday!
Great job with the Seinfeld "shrinkage" transition. I like the way the music/audio stretched out back into your workshop video. Good transition bro.
On the Kreg Multi Mark there's another pretty useful feature. The inset part of the body of the tool is set in 3/16" so it's perfect for marking reveals on casing.
You neglected to point out that the Kreg tool also had what looked like a level in it, super handy in a pinch. These are the kinds of videos I really love. A pro recommending useful stuff that doesnt break the bank.
Fliskers 25mm Snap blade knife is were it is at, I just bought it for work and I don't use the secure wheel just the push in and out bar since it is secured by a force applied locking bar ( if there's a tug or a pull force it'll stay in place). However if you want you can engage the wheel for extra securement.
I’ve been using the Pica Dry Longlife Automatic pencil for about a year now, but now I only use it for rough marking out, so it’s been placed to the side now. I’ve recently replaced it with the new Pica DRY Precise 0.9mm Fine Graphite Pen, which is vastly better and I highly recommend it. No more sharpening, no more silly 0.5mm lead that snaps if you look at it wrong and you can choose between HB and H leads; I went for the bundle pack with the H leads and I have no intention of using anything else now.
I bought the 1-2-3 machinist blocks as well as 30-60-90 and 45-45-90 Blocks (I do a lot or work on my miter saw at 30/60 deg; the saw doesn't have positive stops at those angles.) I used both sets to calibrate my miter saw.
I like my pica dry, but also like to use Staedtler drafting pencils. They use a 2MM lead, available in different hardnesses and colors. They also have a sharpener on the end. The only thing I like better about the pica is the holster
Well, if you like the Olfa box cutter, you absolutely must try the Milwaukee Fastback. Within 30 seconds, I knew Milwaukee had something special. I love it BTW, I love your energy and content. Great job Sir. Cheers from the Frozen North. 🇨🇦
Pentail is great but the Kuru togas with it self Sharpening is just awesome
I was an development engineer (retired) and always used pencils like the Pentel GraphGear 1000 (one of which I presently own) , they are excellent. However the tin leads may be too shall for woodworking.
I have a tool i recommend called the GERBER Prybrid. It is USUALLY about $25, BUT i just looked at home depot's website, and you can get this tool for $19.5 on their website right now... So it may exceed $20 if you count sales tax, but the cheaper edition is also on homedepot's website for $17.86, so it definitely is under the limit. I love this little 8-in-1 compact utility knife. There are 2 versions. The cheaper version uses exacto blades and the other uses regular utility knife blades. It is small and has a tiny pry tool on the back along with a cord cutter, bottle opener, and wire stripper. The flathead screwdriver piece is a little tough to use, but it works in a pinch. I love it so much.
Another good thing about the Stanley Knives is they comes in 3 different sizes, 9mm, 18mm, and 22mm. They all great uses, Good choice Brad. Stay safe Brother, Respect from North London UK.
SUGGESTION: Instead of cutting the straw in half, just cut the tip to the size and shape you need. Need another straw? Just snip that tip. You will get WAY MORE USAGE from your straws that way.
I’ve used a Olfa knife for years at the company I worked for. To change the blade you don’t have to remove anything just loosen the wheel and pull the blade out the back. 😊
Brad, I have that exact same square. It belonged to my father and holds a special place in my heart and my shop
I have 2 of those graph gear pencils. 1 that with red accents for red lead and one silver for normal lead So i can easily tell them apart when drawing out plans.
Coffee stirs from Lowe's that cracks me up! So true every time I have to go to Lowe's to buy a straight piece of wood I tell my wife I'll be back in three hours after I've gone through their entire inventory and leave warped boards all over their floor they can clean it up for wasting my time!
Leaving lumber lay all over the floor is a great way to raise the cost of lumber while creating a potential trip hazard for other customers!
Why not go to a local mill if one is available in your area? Worst case, HD is far from perfect but almost always better quality lumber and generally costs less than lowes.
the olfa with the dull carpet knife on the bottom is the best. I use that thing all the time. pushing in window screens.
One tool I LOVE is a battery operated screwdriver. I have a $40 ryobi but theres a $17 black and decker on amazon. It has some application in woodworking, but its also amazing for assembly/repairs around the house. I use it all the time. You should check it out
Agree with this completely! I have one that is a trigger grip so it basically can fit in anywhere your hand can fit. It takes all the worry away of accidentally overtightening or stripping any screws. I even acquired some hex base drill bits that I use in it for when I just need a small starter hole and may not be able to fit the drill into a spot.
“They got them at Lowes” this line had me cracking up.
I didn't expect to see Kwik Trip in this video, but I'm glad that I did!
Love the Lowes burn sooooo much!
You don't have to fully remove the tensioner on the L2, you can just mostly loosen it and slide the carrier out to change the blade.