DIY Boat Shrink wrap method using Vapour Barrier from Home Depot (Everbilt Super-six Vapour Barrier)
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2022
- DIY boat shrink wrap
This video is not meant to be a used as a training video or how-to video on Professional Shrink wrapping.
Instead it is a record of me experimenting with readily available tools and materials from my local Home Depot. I consider this method of winterizing to be an economical upgrade from traditional tarps tied with rope.
Professional shrink wrap methods often include the use of 4x4 posts with specially designed plastic caps for supports. Locally available workbench brackets with 2x4 studs were used in this video.
Professional shrink wrap film is 7 mil thick and has UV protection from the sun's rays. It is unknown to me what degree of UV protection 6 mil vapour barrier will offer.
Professional shrink wrap torches are ergonomic, have a fan shaped flame and self igniters. The roofing torch used in this video had none of those features, an upgrade to self igniter is a must have.
Plastic: 6mil poly vapour barrier Everbilt 240 in. x 1200 in.
www.homedepot.ca/product/ever...
Torch: Lincoln Electric Inferno Propane Torch Kit
www.homedepot.ca/product/linc... 
Хобби
The inspector came out to check on ur work.
Nice job man I been shrink wraping boats for over 20 years didn't know you can use vapor barrier
I can’t believe it worked ! Thanks for sharing. I really didn’t want to spend 300$ + on a real roll 👍
Thanks for making this video, gave me lots of great ideas to use for this winter. Cheers! 🍻
good video. just wanting to say what I and my son have done shrink wrapping my 30 ft length overall Rinker Fiesta V Cruiser since 2005. I purchased my shrink wrap from Dr shrink online along with the vents cording and miscellaneous. since the winter of 2010 2011 I have removed the shrink wrap and reused it every year since including this 22 23 winter season in Northeast ohio. 6 mil blue carefully removing storing away in a garbage bag and plastic drum each spring. this is 12 years in a roll and holds up excellent I have replaced the door a couple times $15 each and retaped any loose seams. I store my boat on a large trailer in my yard and the trick is to secure the belly band down to the trailer and retighten as needed when the Sun is out and warming up the shrink wrap. you only need to do this once or twice to get the wrinkles out. I do have a professional shrink wrap gun that I purchased online used and very inexpensive but found that I use the Harbor Freight Piezo ignition torch that cost me under $30. you do not use the torch after the first time after the initial shrink wrapping. be sure to use your supports in the same location and use extra support webbing for extra support from heavy snow and ice. the blue shrink wrap I find is best in my location because the sun will warm it up and shed the snow much faster. White shrink wrap is better to use in warmer climates and the clear shrink wrap is better if you are showing the boat for sale during the winter. definitely vent the shrink wrap as much as possible I have 10 vents in mine to keep any moisture from building up and I also have the added benefit with it being at home to brush off any extremely heavy snowfall. I do agree the 6 mil vapor barrier can work very good also.
Wild, I wrap 500+ boats a year in Minnesota, never thought vapor barrier would work so much like it. We get alot of snow here though and generally go up 5-6 feet from the deck of a boat in order to get enough slope to shed snow rather than sagging, breaking the frame and causing damage etc. but I imagine you can get this vapor barrier in a wider roll and still diy!
Good point, yes tall frames are good insurance against shrink wrap failure, regardless of what material is used. I still use tall frames on other boat warps.
When I first started wrapping with vapour barrier I was using very tall frames. I wasn't sure how strong the vapour barrier was, or how well it would hold up. I wanted to be sure it wouldn't break under snow load. I never had an issue. So, over the years I started cutting the frames shorter. Also, the slope you see is not the final slope; I park this boat with the bow high, which increases the angle.
Last season here in ON. Canada we had a heavier than usual snowfall. I did not clear it off the boat at all because I wanted to see if it would fail, it did not. Despite having a few feet of very heavy snow piled on it the wrap was fine. I will be restoring this boat someday and I am not concerned about it's current condition. So it was a good boat to use as a sort of test for the wrap.
This video was filmed a long time ago, this wrap is going on it's 3rd season now and still hasn't failed.
BTW I watch your videos and liked the one on 2.5L oil injection delete.
Are you Facebook? If so, I invite you to join the group Mercury 2.4L, 2.5L Owners. If you don't get accepted it's because I didn't recognize you on FB. I am very selective, so if that happens just Message me on FB and I will accept you.
@@faykos9267 Awesome, I'm gonna try a short frame on a boat that will sit for at least a year or 2 with regular wrap just to see. No facebook, this is my first attempt at social media, might have to make some more vids about old outboards or maybe not? Seems they're meant to be secretive like don't tell anyone how to manipulate the ec on an efi or make it easy to work on the carb motors.
Nice job
Absolute hero. I need to shrink wrap a ‘71 beetle body. Thank you! Any tips? Should I try to wrap all the way around or do a belly band thing like on a boat?
wouldn't hail pierce this material?
I would also like to add after welding your shrink wrap by the perimeter band start heating from the bottom up just like your spray painting a car because the heat rises and many times you don't even have to shrink tight at the very top it'll all ready be tight and have the full thickness of the shrink wrap for Extra Strength along the top support frame
True, and good advice. Useful on bigger boats with a high freeboard.
I had a section of the video where I talked about preheating and post-heating. Unfortunately the video was getting too long and that part got cut.
That advice should also come with a caution; you have to be conscious of the amount of preheat and adjust for it as you get higher up the wrap or else you could burn through.
I am amazed no one ever made a video about this as it seemed perfect. Now I’m going to try…
Curious, can you trailer a boat that’s wrapped?
I haven't tried it but I think you could trail a wrapped boat, it shouldn't be a problem.
yes you can trailer with shrink wrap on if properly wrapped most all new boats are shipped with shrink wrap on if going by Highway for a long distance.
If you do get a hole, could you not just install a vent port?
Maybe, depends on which type of vent.
The area around the hole may also be overheated and thin. It might be too weak to support the type of vent that pokes into the shrink wrap. If you have the type of vent that gets taped in place after you cut a hole it will work.
Links don't work
Thanks for the head up. The original links expired. I updated with new links and current prices.
@@faykos9267 thanks!!
Interesting approach, but I wouldn't recommend sealing the entire boat like that without cutting in lots of air flow vents. Good way to end up with mold in your boat as the temperatures go up and down during the winter and condensation builds. It has to have air flow to dry out or mold builds. Anyway...outside of that this looks like a cheap way to DIY..
I agree, but not all boats need vents. If the boat was left on the water, tied to a dock all season moisture will permeate into the fiberglass. That moisture can later come out of the fiberglass during storage. I have seen that cause black mold many times. If the boat was kept covered on a trailer when not in use it s hull will be dry and not holding moisture, in that case no vents are needed. Nonetheless vents are a good idea and a precaution worth taking. I should have mentioned them in the video My boats are kept on trailers when not in use; no moisture, no vents, no mold.
I absolutely agree with venting and then venting some more and also using a couple three desiccant containers inside.
@@edwardkawecki8101 Absolutely, it can't hurt to add some vents. I recommend adding vents, especially if your boat is kept on the water when not in use. Even if kept on a trailer it can't hurt to add ventilation.
When I started wrapping my boats more than ten years ago, I didn't use vents, not sure why. Maybe I just didn't have any. Then I discovered I don't need them and I haven't bothered with them since.
I wrap 2 Seadoo and about 4 boats every season. Been doing that for at least a decade or more. So, That is 60 wraps that I have done without vents and never had mold issues.
If the boat is dry and not holding water in the hull when wrapped, then moisture will not increase beyond moisture levels outside. No moisture, no need for vents.
This is silly just buy shrink wrap. Vapor barrier does not have the additives needed to shrink like shrink wrap nor will it block UV rays that fade your boat. 🤦♂️.
Seems to shrink the same, did you actually watch the video? It’s drum tight, just like shrink wrap. In regards to UV, read the description.
If you have proof of these UV additives please share. Otherwise you are just making an assumption that they exist. Consumers need to be less naive and trusting of marketing and branding these days. There’s a good chance you are correct, there’s also a good chance there’s no difference except color and the writing on the label.
Without access to trade secrets we have no way of knowing which additives are added, if any. All we have to rely on is experimentation. I have experience: I have a 04 Sea-doo GTX, it’s a fibreglass hull, viper red gel-coat. It’s been wrapped with vapour barrier every season since 2010… it’s never been buffed and it’s still bright red. Red gel-coat is highly susceptible to fade due to UV, yet my red Sea-doo has not faded at all. So, my experience indicates that there must be some UV protection in vapour barrier.
Advantages are cost, availability and convenience.
Vapor barrier is 1/3 the cost of shrink wrap, by the time shipping is added the shrink wrap can be up to 4 times more expensive.
Shrink wrap is not readily available to people in remote communities. Shipping may take weeks and the cost may make it unaffordable. Vapor barrier is available everywhere as it’s a very common building material.
It’s really convenient to stop at a Home Depot vs waiting at home all day for a shrink wrap delivery.
It’s a fact, do the research if you don’t believe me. Got my roll of shrink wrap from Home Depot just ship to store $200 after tax no shipping snd enough for 4 years for my 18’ boat. To each their own but I would buy true 7mil shrink wrap. I am surprised it shrunk pretty well but true wrap would also shrink better due to the additives. I did watch the entire video and yes end result looks good to keep it dry👍
Not sure where you live. I am in Canada. They don’t sell shrink wrap at Home Depot in Canada. Most people in my area buy from U-line, my shipping cost from them is $127.00. I can buy a 2000 sq.ft roll of vapor barrier cheaper that! I am in the same city as U-Line. That shipping cost could double if I was outside of the city.
So, let me get this straight; you are saying that you researched on the internet and found websites that list the additives in shrink wrap that are not found in vapor barrier. Please share. I am very curious where you found that information. Otherwise I call BS. I don’t think that information is readily available. Theres no doubt these additives exist in marketing and branding but I doubt they are tangible. If you have that information share it, prove me wrong.
Thanks for the video. I am in Alaska, these videos offer great options for us. Yes, if you lived in continental USA you will likely have many options. Amazon and Home Depot will only ship to Alaska for outrageous costs, thus defeating point of DIY