Hi there, love your content, but as I mentioned in a previous video comment section : you need to tell people a way or another that you are affiliated/sponsored by Core. It's not because the kite industry is a small one that we don't expect the same transparency. Please make it right the next time, I'm sure it will helps with the trust with your viewers
About the pigtails, I've also noticed the double looping. In the manual it says it's just for line length differences, it even shows how much cm difference it makes. In paragliding they use this method to trim the lines (backlines shrink more compared to front lines).
Update: I've been riding the bar since the launch and I am LOVING it! No significant signs of wear. Only issue is that the white part of the grip is getting a bit dirty from the desert dust here in Oman.
No way what? is that how it can be with the top price bar? can it get dirty? haha joking. The bar must be good. imaging the qty of the line connections on each line - must be noisy.
The bar is modular like every other bar. Shipping is 15 Euro and done from Europe which is a PITA for those living in North America. I paid 54 Euro (80 CAD) with tax for a safety line change shipped from Germany to France... Also why continue to use PU tubes which are impossible to inspect, a PITA to fold properly, and much harder to find OEM ? Durability doesn't mean much when you can't see wear and tear...
Hi Mike, My brand new Sensor 4S Pro Bars QR accidentally released while riding a jibe to switch in the waves in side shore conditions. I am very much familiar with the Core QR after using the Sensor 3 Pro for two years without issues. I saw The chicken loop pulling out of the QR in front of me without touching it after around 15 min of kiting. The accidental release out of nowhere left me suprised and loosing trust in my new bar. 😢 luckily It didn’t happen too far away from shore and I was able to swim back to the beach with flagged out kite without causing any further damage to my gear. (I managed to arrive the beach with my kite about 10 m upwind of a rock pier). I don’t need to ask you , what can happen when imagining if this happens during a big jump. Is there any known weak point or production issue for the new QR? I really would like to get my trust back in the Sensor 4 S bar 🙏🏻 thank you !
Hey Fabian That sounds like a horribly scary incident. I hope that the cause of the issue is that the chicken loop was not properly inserted. This can happen. I've had it myself with Sensor 3. I always make doubly sure to click my loop in properly, keep it free of sand, and give my QR a hard tug to make sure it's properly closed. I asked Core service about it and they're aware of your issue. I understand that you're the only person who has had this issue. Please keep us posted how it goes 🤘 P.S. If I were you I would follow the steps I mentioned above and test the bar in a safe riding environment (somewhere where it's easy to self rescue, no big hazards, riding with support / supervision etc)
Yeah, what Mike said. I have noticed that it is possible to think you have clicked the Sensor 3 bar chicken loop, but in fact you can miss the metal catch and click in next to it, creating a false connection, that will take some tension. I learned to double check after that. (Other seat belt style bars don’t seem to do this - would be a nice fix for Sensor 5)
I think you should definitely do a video about line lenghts for bigair. I have a question concerning this. I am riding a 10m Ocean Rodeo Flite 5s aluula. Its not a particularly fast looping kite. But it boosts well. So far I prefer looping it with 24m lines. For me, with 22m lines on the 10m, I find that I need more wind to loop it safely and it also loops lower and pulls quite a bit more, which I dont like. With 24m lines I feel like I can get more height in my jump, the kite still responds quite well. Im more confident that the kite will catch me on the 24m lines than the 22m lines. But maybe I have not used it on 22s enough. Are there certain kites where you would recommend 24m lines to loop a 10m?
I'm not an expert, I've only looped on 6,7,8 and 9m kites but I definitely find it much easier on 22m lines than on 24m lines. Interested to hear Mike's reply in the next video
"I used to fly a sensor 3, and then my dad got a job, LOL" -some mean kid bullying me on the beach. Would like to see a line-length video, particularly any additional considerations for rider weight & wind speed.
Looks like an epic bar. The only thing they didn't need to do for me is increase size of the floaters. I really like that the Sensor 3 is one of the most compact bars, and I hated the massive floaters on my Ozone bar. Hopefully the Sensor 4 still feels compact.
I was on sensor 3 pros since they came out, used my 4 pro for the first time the other day, didn’t even think about/notice the different floaters once out on the water
3:40 Hi Mike, quick question: if the power lines become a bit longer in a low V configuration, and to adjust it you use the trim, then do you end up losing your ability to further trim the lines for depowering purposes like you would usually use the trimmer for?
@@Arealish what are you thoughts about that? To me it seems like a compromise. Interested in the universality of the bar, but question inability to depower in low v set ups.
@Mike what's your take on this? I'm considering buying a sensor 4 pro bar to replace my sensor 3, but all my kites are Ocean Rodeo Rise. Being unable to depower would be a big compromise for me as well.
Hi Mike, is there any difference between the height of the high V between different brands and can you set the bar to the right height of a certain brand. I.e. Harlem vs Core vs Duotone. By height I mean the distance that the lines are together. And as a bonus question, do you have insight in the differences between said brands? Cheers 🤙
Mike my friend Tim bought the sensor 4 bar 3 weeks ago.He allready have to change the inserts because they are completely wearn out. I know him as a guy who realy takes care of his gear not like some kiters i know. With the sensor 2 and 3 this was also an issue. I mean the wear in my opinion goes way to fast.Love Core realy do but if you buy a bar for 850,- the material should last longer.
Looks like a nice bar and good job on the review. I'd get rid of anything white on it though and how easy if it had universal knots/ loops instead of changing pigtails around. 🤟
I think its great that the inserts wear out, because it protects the rest of the bar. Just make sure to replace them in time, they are not expensive. Once every 6-12 months depending on how often you kite. The SSF rope on the Sensor 3 is already significant better, and does not wear out for me anymore that frequently.
@@anotheruniverse5651 I have now been kiting the bar for 31 hours for the last 2.5 weeks. and i already have to replace all the inserts, which I think is quite fast for a bar that is 2.5 weeks old.
Hey man, at the moment I am riding a Sensor 3+ with a Nexus 2 in 8m and/or a Nexus 4 in 10m. My biggest jump were about 6-7 meters and I am struggling to get the height to heli loop. I'm 15 y/o, weigh 65Kg and am 1,8m tall. What line length would you recommend? I've been riding a 24m since. Thanks a lot! Btw I love ur vids keep going!
Hey Ehren! I suggest 22 or 20m lines to get the best take off timing. Also, make the goal steady, high jumps, rather than heli loops. Heli loops should only be a goal once you're landing 10m jumps without a heli loop most of the time :) Thanks for the feedback!
@@gethighwithmikehow to land a 10m jump without a heli loop? When I jump around 5m I already feel like the kite is falling behind me and I have to do heli loop to land it or otherwise the lines will slack and the kite will fall off the sky.
@@przemysawmarciniec5180 you can do it without a heli loop and it's safer to learn to do it without one first. Having a good take off with lots of line tension is the key. It will set you up to have a floaty jump, which results in a softer landing. I suggest working on transition jumps to develop this kind of jump
Incredible that in this day and age, there are still bars that cannot be trusted and that to fly safe you should spend nearly 1000 bucks for a bar. I ride a compstick bar from Slingshot thats over 10 years old with super thick lines(thanks to Ruben) and don’t worry for a second.
Best bar never ever have to replace parts or have lines break or release on its own ozone bars had them ten years not one problem the bars with the most problems in order naish/ airush /flysufer/ core/ what piss me about core 800 dollars grip wears off in two years budgies break and this is the pro model will not trust the new bar even more money durability of the new bar maybe in three years grip will wear out
Plus the core 3 bar had a very sub-standard release system that wore out at the low split hub if I remember correctly. I have Ozones and F-one bars, I fucking agree with you that the build quality of the Ozone bar is far superior. Plus the spares parts are widely available for repair as the contact is simple and maintenable. Also I find really genius that you can change the hardware to make it Race, Snowkite or just freeride oriented.
@@erbesnard plus core in the beginning had to twist then release bullshit didn’t last more then two years. They were too cheap to pay the patent fee on the seatbelt click now they did like every other manufacturer
@3:36 Wait what, with low split front lines longer that back lines...Isn't it that when you control line stretch, all are mounted in a single point and have a same tension? Or is this a Core having different lengths?
@@gethighwithmike It still does not make sense to me. So, this Core bar: let's mount all line ends in one point, fully release trim cleat and pull in the bar. All the lines should have same tention. If we would like to use this bar with kite intended for low V - remove split thingie and that should be enough. But as you say we need to do a correction on cleat - meaning front/back lines are not "equal" length here? It's clear that having that spreader up shortens front lines, but that should be a "problem" of bridles on kite to deal with.
@@mikemiller774 The difference is not that big if you want to be reassured (less than a cm). I think, that contrary to what Mike said, the double knot on the pigtail is made to compensate for this small difference. You mount the front as double and the rear as singles. That's a clever design. Using the trim is also an option, although you lose a bit of trim range. Depending on the kite you can choose different knots on the rear, or adjust with the knots on the rear leader lines. Is that possible Mike on this bar?
![MISSING: SLIM SHADY [Expanded Mourner’s Edition Trailer]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/xh8qgHrOO1g/mqdefault.jpg)
Hi there, love your content, but as I mentioned in a previous video comment section : you need to tell people a way or another that you are affiliated/sponsored by Core. It's not because the kite industry is a small one that we don't expect the same transparency. Please make it right the next time, I'm sure it will helps with the trust with your viewers
Thanks. I have a Core logo in my intro. It looks pretty clear to me.
He’s mentioned that in previous videos and most who knows anything about kitesurfing knows he only post about core/carved so not hard to work out,
4:10 chart = GOLD! Big up yourself Mr. High Mike :))))
Cheers for the shoutout Mike, the content appreciation is always mutual!
You da man!
About the pigtails, I've also noticed the double looping. In the manual it says it's just for line length differences, it even shows how much cm difference it makes. In paragliding they use this method to trim the lines (backlines shrink more compared to front lines).
Exactly buddy, give us the chance to adjust a bit the center lines. Well noted❤
Thanks Andy! Confirmed that this is the reason 😬🤘
Update: I've been riding the bar since the launch and I am LOVING it! No significant signs of wear. Only issue is that the white part of the grip is getting a bit dirty from the desert dust here in Oman.
No way what? is that how it can be with the top price bar? can it get dirty?
haha joking. The bar must be good. imaging the qty of the line connections on each line - must be noisy.
The pink shirt, love it. Also nobody is making videos like this, keep it up. The quality 👌
Thanks bro ❤️🤘
The bar is modular like every other bar. Shipping is 15 Euro and done from Europe which is a PITA for those living in North America.
I paid 54 Euro (80 CAD) with tax for a safety line change shipped from Germany to France...
Also why continue to use PU tubes which are impossible to inspect, a PITA to fold properly, and much harder to find OEM ? Durability doesn't mean much when you can't see wear and tear...
Hi Mike,
My brand new Sensor 4S Pro Bars QR accidentally released while riding a jibe to switch in the waves in side shore conditions. I am very much familiar with the Core QR after using the Sensor 3 Pro for two years without issues. I saw The chicken loop pulling out of the QR in front of me without touching it after around 15 min of kiting. The accidental release out of nowhere left me suprised and loosing trust in my new bar. 😢 luckily It didn’t happen too far away from shore and I was able to swim back to the beach with flagged out kite without causing any further damage to my gear. (I managed to arrive the beach with my kite about 10 m upwind of a rock pier). I don’t need to ask you , what can happen when imagining if this happens during a big jump. Is there any known weak point or production issue for the new QR? I really would like to get my trust back in the Sensor 4 S bar 🙏🏻 thank you !
Hey Fabian
That sounds like a horribly scary incident. I hope that the cause of the issue is that the chicken loop was not properly inserted. This can happen. I've had it myself with Sensor 3. I always make doubly sure to click my loop in properly, keep it free of sand, and give my QR a hard tug to make sure it's properly closed.
I asked Core service about it and they're aware of your issue. I understand that you're the only person who has had this issue. Please keep us posted how it goes 🤘
P.S. If I were you I would follow the steps I mentioned above and test the bar in a safe riding environment (somewhere where it's easy to self rescue, no big hazards, riding with support / supervision etc)
Yeah, what Mike said. I have noticed that it is possible to think you have clicked the Sensor 3 bar chicken loop, but in fact you can miss the metal catch and click in next to it, creating a false connection, that will take some tension. I learned to double check after that. (Other seat belt style bars don’t seem to do this - would be a nice fix for Sensor 5)
Hey Mike! I'd love to see that video on line lenght, please make it!
I think you should definitely do a video about line lenghts for bigair. I have a question concerning this. I am riding a 10m Ocean Rodeo Flite 5s aluula. Its not a particularly fast looping kite. But it boosts well. So far I prefer looping it with 24m lines. For me, with 22m lines on the 10m, I find that I need more wind to loop it safely and it also loops lower and pulls quite a bit more, which I dont like. With 24m lines I feel like I can get more height in my jump, the kite still responds quite well. Im more confident that the kite will catch me on the 24m lines than the 22m lines. But maybe I have not used it on 22s enough. Are there certain kites where you would recommend 24m lines to loop a 10m?
I'm not an expert, I've only looped on 6,7,8 and 9m kites but I definitely find it much easier on 22m lines than on 24m lines. Interested to hear Mike's reply in the next video
"I used to fly a sensor 3, and then my dad got a job, LOL" -some mean kid bullying me on the beach.
Would like to see a line-length video, particularly any additional considerations for rider weight & wind speed.
Don't you think the Nav Pro for €200 less is better?
Ofc it is
Ofc The most good kite surfers are using the north navigator bar on different Kites like dutone evo d lab
Looks like an epic bar. The only thing they didn't need to do for me is increase size of the floaters. I really like that the Sensor 3 is one of the most compact bars, and I hated the massive floaters on my Ozone bar. Hopefully the Sensor 4 still feels compact.
I was on sensor 3 pros since they came out, used my 4 pro for the first time the other day, didn’t even think about/notice the different floaters once out on the water
awesome section on line length! I've been riding 24m without thinking about it. moving to 22 now!
everything is good except the floaters. This type of connection to the bar is prone to deathlooping
Very informative. Thx
3:40 Hi Mike, quick question: if the power lines become a bit longer in a low V configuration, and to adjust it you use the trim, then do you end up losing your ability to further trim the lines for depowering purposes like you would usually use the trimmer for?
Answer is yes.
@@Arealish what are you thoughts about that? To me it seems like a compromise. Interested in the universality of the bar, but question inability to depower in low v set ups.
@Mike what's your take on this? I'm considering buying a sensor 4 pro bar to replace my sensor 3, but all my kites are Ocean Rodeo Rise. Being unable to depower would be a big compromise for me as well.
But some pig tails@@marcfigueras6827
Was just looking for details on this bar yesterday, thanks!
Hi Mike, is there any difference between the height of the high V between different brands and can you set the bar to the right height of a certain brand. I.e. Harlem vs Core vs Duotone. By height I mean the distance that the lines are together. And as a bonus question, do you have insight in the differences between said brands? Cheers 🤙
Mike my friend Tim bought the sensor 4 bar 3 weeks ago.He allready have to change the inserts because they are completely wearn out. I know him as a guy who realy takes care of his gear not like some kiters i know. With the sensor 2 and 3 this was also an issue. I mean the wear in my opinion goes way to fast.Love Core realy do but if you buy a bar for 850,- the material should last longer.
hahahah @ the intro
Does it comply with ISO 21853 safety standard?
Looks like a nice bar and good job on the review. I'd get rid of anything white on it though and how easy if it had universal knots/ loops instead of changing pigtails around. 🤟
Yes it’s a very nice bar
Hé Mike, and what about the inserts and the ssf that always wear out? I had hoped they would change that.
I think its great that the inserts wear out, because it protects the rest of the bar. Just make sure to replace them in time, they are not expensive. Once every 6-12 months depending on how often you kite. The SSF rope on the Sensor 3 is already significant better, and does not wear out for me anymore that frequently.
@@anotheruniverse5651 I have now been kiting the bar for 31 hours for the last 2.5 weeks. and i already have to replace all the inserts, which I think is quite fast for a bar that is 2.5 weeks old.
@@timkuip6644i always try to get my bar under water when i start my session, so all the sand from the beach rinses of before pulling it up and down =)
Hey man, at the moment I am riding a Sensor 3+ with a Nexus 2 in 8m and/or a Nexus 4 in 10m. My biggest jump were about 6-7 meters and I am struggling to get the height to heli loop. I'm 15 y/o, weigh 65Kg and am 1,8m tall. What line length would you recommend? I've been riding a 24m since. Thanks a lot! Btw I love ur vids keep going!
Hey Ehren! I suggest 22 or 20m lines to get the best take off timing.
Also, make the goal steady, high jumps, rather than heli loops. Heli loops should only be a goal once you're landing 10m jumps without a heli loop most of the time :)
Thanks for the feedback!
@@gethighwithmikehow to land a 10m jump without a heli loop? When I jump around 5m I already feel like the kite is falling behind me and I have to do heli loop to land it or otherwise the lines will slack and the kite will fall off the sky.
@@przemysawmarciniec5180 you can do it without a heli loop and it's safer to learn to do it without one first. Having a good take off with lots of line tension is the key.
It will set you up to have a floaty jump, which results in a softer landing.
I suggest working on transition jumps to develop this kind of jump
Great Video! Thank you for your insights
Thanks for watching! :D
Incredible that in this day and age, there are still bars that cannot be trusted and that to fly safe you should spend nearly 1000 bucks for a bar. I ride a compstick bar from Slingshot thats over 10 years old with super thick lines(thanks to Ruben) and don’t worry for a second.
Insane hey!
Best bar never ever have to replace parts or have lines break or release on its own ozone bars had them ten years not one problem the bars with the most problems in order naish/ airush /flysufer/ core/ what piss me about core 800 dollars grip wears off in two years budgies break and this is the pro model will not trust the new bar even more money durability of the new bar maybe in three years grip will wear out
Plus the core 3 bar had a very sub-standard release system that wore out at the low split hub if I remember correctly. I have Ozones and F-one bars, I fucking agree with you that the build quality of the Ozone bar is far superior. Plus the spares parts are widely available for repair as the contact is simple and maintenable. Also I find really genius that you can change the hardware to make it Race, Snowkite or just freeride oriented.
@@erbesnard plus core in the beginning had to twist then release bullshit didn’t last more then two years. They were too cheap to pay the patent fee on the seatbelt click now they did like every other manufacturer
@@robertrecco710 hahah yes good one forgot about that. Just people spending too much time marketing products rather than riding it…
@3:36 Wait what, with low split front lines longer that back lines...Isn't it that when you control line stretch, all are mounted in a single point and have a same tension? Or is this a Core having different lengths?
The lines go from having a kink in them (making them shorter) to a straight path (therefore longer). Look at the image carefully :)
@@gethighwithmike It still does not make sense to me. So, this Core bar: let's mount all line ends in one point, fully release trim cleat and pull in the bar. All the lines should have same tention. If we would like to use this bar with kite intended for low V - remove split thingie and that should be enough. But as you say we need to do a correction on cleat - meaning front/back lines are not "equal" length here? It's clear that having that spreader up shortens front lines, but that should be a "problem" of bridles on kite to deal with.
@@mikemiller774 The difference is not that big if you want to be reassured (less than a cm). I think, that contrary to what Mike said, the double knot on the pigtail is made to compensate for this small difference. You mount the front as double and the rear as singles. That's a clever design.
Using the trim is also an option, although you lose a bit of trim range. Depending on the kite you can choose different knots on the rear, or adjust with the knots on the rear leader lines. Is that possible Mike on this bar?
More Mike/Gollum content please!!
😛❤️
North navigator pro is better
Its to cheap, should charge at least 999,- 😜
😂 I'll be sure to pass on your feedback
@@gethighwithmike it's better to make an educational video and advertising will kill the movie you trust, and this is the scariest thing on RUclips
well u dont spit on the hand that feeds you right. overpriced imho.