The reason you need the ignition module is that Microsquirt can only output a logic level ignition signal, which can only control smart coils. Most older stock ignition coils are “dumb” coils and need a triggered ground. That’s what the Bosch ignition module provides. The Bosch is told what to do by microsquirt’s logic level signal and in turn triggers a ground for the coil. The alternative to running a Bosch module is doing a full conversion to smart coils.
Man I can’t thank you enough for this video. Best most in-depth video I’ve seen. I’ve watched almost all of them on RUclips and non are anywhere near this quality. Thank you big time.
I can’t believe someone so young could have done this video. This was an excellent video and you are so well spoken. It was a pleasure to watch and by far the best one I have seen about installing the micro squirt. This could be for any car. Doesn’t have to be a Volvo. Keep up the great work kid! You made things way easier for me. Just sorry you had to take the lumps to get to where you are, but sounds like you learned a lot along the way. Now on to software!
i cant wait to get my 240. ill have my drivers license in a year and there is a 240 in mint condition for 3.5k. its completely stock and original hence the price. it even has the h-kennzeichen (im from germany) so its a certified oldtimer and i pay less in fees n stuff. it’s absolutely lovely
Thanks for the very detailed video. I was trying to decide between bike carbs or microsquirt on my VW Cabriolet, when I swap in an ABA motor. This video is really pushing me to the Microsquirt direction. I do have one suggestion that should have been your first step. Disconnect the battery. You don't want to go through all this work to have the ECU get fried from having possible hot wires
This is the best explanation on this subject i have seen. Very, very good video. Thank you! About the rpm sensor, could the flywheel for the lh2.4 have been used?
Thanks for the video. I’m thinking about fuel injecting my carbureted car, and this overview is very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to put this together.
Interesting video, thanks. I plan to Microsquirt my Saab 900 which has the same Bosch Jetronic 2.2 system, except the engine is mounted in reverse, with the crank pulley up against the bulkhead, so that toothed crank wheel will be even more difficult to install. And I'd like to delete the key ignition and replace it with a (hidden) start button. More research needed before I start ripping out cables.
great vid. I did my 240 4 years ago. Like you it was hard to find answers and when it came to start it. Nobody would give me guidance. I had to hire a tuner online just to get it running. Im still learning the turning part, but slowly getting there. Great vid. where did you get the crank wheels and sensor. Thanks
Love it! Yeah it’s a pain but in glad this video has helped a bunch of people. I got my wheel and sensor from DIYAUTOTUNE.com along with pretty much everything else
Great detailed video, thank you for putting it together, makes me think I might be able to change my lh2.0 to microsquirt. I might have missed it in the video, but with microsquirt management does it use / hookup to the stock IAC valve? or does it ignore that altogether, or maybe it's the "Fast Idle Valve" on the wiring diagram. Thanks
I’m currently not running one but I plan on adding one… you can’t use the lh2.2 one you have to use one from a 2.4 car because it’s two wire instead of three
I have installed everything and the wiring is good however, after setting up the basic settings in tuner studio and making sure the vehicle is timed I am still unable to start the car. Do you have any tips or perhaps any last minute tricks that may be I missing thank you so much once again.
When you turn the key does the starter crank? That was a simple stupid problem I had that the microsquirt was all good but I hadn’t connected the Volvos starter wire… if it’s something else dm me @max._jolley on ig and I’ll happily run you through whatever is goin on!
Hey buddy me and a buddy just finished hooked up our 190e using your guide and got the car to fire up. Is there anyway you can help us with turning?? Any other ways to reach you?
That’s awesome man I’m glad it could help!!! Not gonna lie I went to college and don’t have my car so after finishing the install I haven’t spent much time on tuning. From what I can say learn auto tune because that seems to be very beneficial and then follow me on IG @max._jolley
You sir are a legend ! I've been looking for a triggerwheel setup on the crank for a while ! I have a 245 with a b23E in it. Looking to turbo it and stand alone ecu it. Don't have the flywheel with the modern hall sensor shit. So will use your trick! Besides my 245 I have a 145 with a 940 turbo swapped b230FK in it on stock ecu. I am curious, where did you get your tune ? Did you make it yourself and would you be cool to share it ? I have a friend whom is building a b230fk engine with a 16T turbo, also custom ecu. Thanks again for the walkthrough. Lastly you are running 2 injector wires. Thus 2 out of the 4 will be running in batch mode. Luckily not all 4 at the same time, otherwise you will have problems xD.
Thanks!! I really appreciate it. This has been a slow project for me just because of life so all of my answers are gonna be iffy. I would love to share the tune but it isn’t done and isn’t good I would feel bad if something happened to your car on a very rough tune… I’m hoping to one day post it somewhere either on RUclips or elsewhere when I get it running well. I got it from another youtuber! Also, I’m planning on running 10-12 pounds of boost but that will come with the tuning… won’t have a good amount of time until late spring then I’ll hopefully be able to get you some better answers!
I have a 84 with huge issues with the icu. I've been debating of going micro squirt, my question why didn't you use the hall sensor on the distributor. Because i finally made that work. Did you do it just so it was simpler or just preference. Because i know the sensor i have is about 180 bucks because mos volvos have the sensor and distributor on the the back of the engine. Well now that i watch more in to the video i feel dumb haha you kinda answered my question.
@@max._jolley i had to look up multiple videos to check how it worked. Now it's interesting because im everything related to the red block, i always heard not to go with the older blocks, the non squirter blocks, yours is the first turbo, i assume not squirter because of the distributor, because most of the newer blocks have the distributor on the cylinders head. Has worked good for you the set up? It's also true that theres not enough info about microsquirt with the older volvos, i saw another video with a green station wagon and if I'm not mistaken in one of the 3 cables they had too put a resistance on the hall sensor to make ot work. I have replaced a good amount on my car and yet haven't been able to use it. I have issues with the ignition, discovered that part of the problem was the faulty hall sensor. But there some other issue and that's why i just think it's better to re do the wiring. It's 84 known that earlier models had electrical issues.
Wiring the AEM UEGO controller ground to chassis ground will work but you may see some voltage (thus afr) difference between controller and Tuner Studio. Another option is to wire controller ground to sensor ground on Micro. Microsquirt makes this easy as ir has a 2nd sensor ground you can run.
I’m running batch injection on a 3 cylinder SeaDoo. It’s fine. Fuel only goes in to the cylinder while the intake valve is open. It can puddle up on the back of the intake valve but as soon as air is moving it all gets blasted in to the cylinder. Mine idles nice and smooth
If I was to try to request a video custom made explaining how to do this, I could not have gotten a better video. Thanks, bro!
Of course g 😎 glad it helped
The reason you need the ignition module is that Microsquirt can only output a logic level ignition signal, which can only control smart coils. Most older stock ignition coils are “dumb” coils and need a triggered ground. That’s what the Bosch ignition module provides. The Bosch is told what to do by microsquirt’s logic level signal and in turn triggers a ground for the coil. The alternative to running a Bosch module is doing a full conversion to smart coils.
Man I can’t thank you enough for this video. Best most in-depth video I’ve seen. I’ve watched almost all of them on RUclips and non are anywhere near this quality. Thank you big time.
Good going....I love seeing young people like yourself doing positive things..You have a good future ahead.
I can’t believe someone so young could have done this video. This was an excellent video and you are so well spoken. It was a pleasure to watch and by far the best one I have seen about installing the micro squirt. This could be for any car. Doesn’t have to be a Volvo. Keep up the great work kid! You made things way easier for me. Just sorry you had to take the lumps to get to where you are, but sounds like you learned a lot along the way. Now on to software!
Thank you sir the kind words mean a lot… the software is proving to be quite the headache 😅
I am working on installing a micro squirt on a Ducati using a Raspberry Pi powered dash. It’s taking a while but I’m getting there.
i cant wait to get my 240. ill have my drivers license in a year and there is a 240 in mint condition for 3.5k. its completely stock and original hence the price. it even has the h-kennzeichen (im from germany) so its a certified oldtimer and i pay less in fees n stuff. it’s absolutely lovely
i really love how you spoke about the squirting mechanic of your engine combombulator, i really appreciate this keep up the good work
😩
Just bought my first ever project car, '91 240. Been crushing your vids man. Thanks for all the info!
Definitely up there with the top micro sqirt how to video's 👍
thank you so so much for making this video. 1st person to make a step by step on how to do this in youtube!
Thanks for the very detailed video. I was trying to decide between bike carbs or microsquirt on my VW Cabriolet, when I swap in an ABA motor. This video is really pushing me to the Microsquirt direction.
I do have one suggestion that should have been your first step. Disconnect the battery. You don't want to go through all this work to have the ECU get fried from having possible hot wires
100% I had the battery removed for the whole process until I was ready to start good tip
I definitely feel i should do this at some point once i finish all my other side projects. Vid was great👍
Keep the Volvo content coming!
Definitely took a lot away from this video, there’s a bit more too it than I originally thought!
This is the best explanation on this subject i have seen. Very, very good video. Thank you!
About the rpm sensor, could the flywheel for the lh2.4 have been used?
Thanks! Would’ve been a lot easier if the car was lh2.4 yeah
Great work. Keep it up. Sure lots of people appreciate it. Hope your channel grows.
Thanks!! Appreciate the support
Thanks for the video. I’m thinking about fuel injecting my carbureted car, and this overview is very helpful. I appreciate you taking the time to put this together.
Interesting video, thanks. I plan to Microsquirt my Saab 900 which has the same Bosch Jetronic 2.2 system, except the engine is mounted in reverse, with the crank pulley up against the bulkhead, so that toothed crank wheel will be even more difficult to install. And I'd like to delete the key ignition and replace it with a (hidden) start button. More research needed before I start ripping out cables.
Sounds like quite the project!! Good luck
hell yeah brother! thank you 🙏🏻 🙌🏻
Thank you for the awesome detailed install! …. How how about tuning?? Tuner studio hopefully
Very good video. Awesome work!
Great vid man! Fixing on installing this micro on a yaris that i am going to turbo. Best vid I seen so far on simplifying the harness.
Thanks!! I’m glad it was able to help
A very nicely done video. well done my dude.
Thanks man!! Love the videos, yours helped a bunch!
@@max._jolley Awesome! Glad to hear it helped somewhere.
really enjoyed the video. I have been on the fence about getting a stand alone ECU for a while now. Lots of great info to take on this next challenge.
great vid. I did my 240 4 years ago. Like you it was hard to find answers and when it came to start it. Nobody would give me guidance. I had to hire a tuner online just to get it running. Im still learning the turning part, but slowly getting there. Great vid. where did you get the crank wheels and sensor. Thanks
Love it! Yeah it’s a pain but in glad this video has helped a bunch of people. I got my wheel and sensor from DIYAUTOTUNE.com along with pretty much everything else
Great detailed video, thank you for putting it together, makes me think I might be able to change my lh2.0 to microsquirt.
I might have missed it in the video, but with microsquirt management does it use / hookup to the stock IAC valve? or does it ignore that altogether, or maybe it's the "Fast Idle Valve" on the wiring diagram. Thanks
I’m currently not running one but I plan on adding one… you can’t use the lh2.2 one you have to use one from a 2.4 car because it’s two wire instead of three
@@max._jolley ah thank you, that's good to know
Great video.!! Very informative… how did you make your base tune?
Got it from another youtuber
I have installed everything and the wiring is good however, after setting up the basic settings in tuner studio and making sure the vehicle is timed I am still unable to start the car. Do you have any tips or perhaps any last minute tricks that may be I missing thank you so much once again.
When you turn the key does the starter crank? That was a simple stupid problem I had that the microsquirt was all good but I hadn’t connected the Volvos starter wire… if it’s something else dm me @max._jolley on ig and I’ll happily run you through whatever is goin on!
Excellent video. Keep up the good work.
Absolute legend
Could you link that hall effects sensor and gear please?
Both are diy auto tune the gear is the 6 3/4 32-1 and the sensor is the black one with the red white and black wires
Super nice video! Could you do another video explaining how your next steps with TunerStudio looked like? Thank you so much! Greetings from Germany!
I’m hoping to soon!! Thank you!
will there be a future video about how you did the turbo swap? there are a few videos but theyre pretty hard to follow.
Yes! Coming soon
@@max._jolley sweet, im planning on doing a +t and a microsquirt all at once
@@max._jolley thought of something else, how did you wire it to the gauge cluster ie tach speedo and any other oem gauges if you have any
Hey buddy me and a buddy just finished hooked up our 190e using your guide and got the car to fire up. Is there anyway you can help us with turning?? Any other ways to reach you?
That’s awesome man I’m glad it could help!!! Not gonna lie I went to college and don’t have my car so after finishing the install I haven’t spent much time on tuning. From what I can say learn auto tune because that seems to be very beneficial and then follow me on IG @max._jolley
You sir are a legend ! I've been looking for a triggerwheel setup on the crank for a while ! I have a 245 with a b23E in it. Looking to turbo it and stand alone ecu it. Don't have the flywheel with the modern hall sensor shit. So will use your trick!
Besides my 245 I have a 145 with a 940 turbo swapped b230FK in it on stock ecu.
I am curious, where did you get your tune ? Did you make it yourself and would you be cool to share it ?
I have a friend whom is building a b230fk engine with a 16T turbo, also custom ecu.
Thanks again for the walkthrough.
Lastly you are running 2 injector wires. Thus 2 out of the 4 will be running in batch mode. Luckily not all 4 at the same time, otherwise you will have problems xD.
Ow I forgot to ask ! How much boost are you running on your originally NA b230F engine ?
Thanks!! I really appreciate it. This has been a slow project for me just because of life so all of my answers are gonna be iffy. I would love to share the tune but it isn’t done and isn’t good I would feel bad if something happened to your car on a very rough tune… I’m hoping to one day post it somewhere either on RUclips or elsewhere when I get it running well. I got it from another youtuber! Also, I’m planning on running 10-12 pounds of boost but that will come with the tuning… won’t have a good amount of time until late spring then I’ll hopefully be able to get you some better answers!
Excellent vid, many thanks 👍
Very great video, thanks! Do you still have the ignition box in?
Nope, I removed all of the original ECUs
Yeah you’re a legend dude
😎
godsend of a video. thank you so much
Good info. Great job man 👍
I have a 84 with huge issues with the icu. I've been debating of going micro squirt, my question why didn't you use the hall sensor on the distributor. Because i finally made that work. Did you do it just so it was simpler or just preference. Because i know the sensor i have is about 180 bucks because mos volvos have the sensor and distributor on the the back of the engine. Well now that i watch more in to the video i feel dumb haha you kinda answered my question.
Haha yeah no problem! It was just too easy, relatively cheap, and I had problems with two distributor hall sensors so I was fed up haha
@@max._jolley i had to look up multiple videos to check how it worked. Now it's interesting because im everything related to the red block, i always heard not to go with the older blocks, the non squirter blocks, yours is the first turbo, i assume not squirter because of the distributor, because most of the newer blocks have the distributor on the cylinders head. Has worked good for you the set up? It's also true that theres not enough info about microsquirt with the older volvos, i saw another video with a green station wagon and if I'm not mistaken in one of the 3 cables they had too put a resistance on the hall sensor to make ot work. I have replaced a good amount on my car and yet haven't been able to use it. I have issues with the ignition, discovered that part of the problem was the faulty hall sensor. But there some other issue and that's why i just think it's better to re do the wiring. It's 84 known that earlier models had electrical issues.
How well has the crank sensor holding up mounted to the harmonic balancer?
Well
Pleeeeease do a +t video.... i have a 2.2 as well and i need it in my life rn. Did u upgrade your internals or just running low boost? So curious?!!?
Video coming soon… my internals are stock and I’m aiming to run about 10 pounds
@@max._jolley 10 pounds with na compression should feel sick
instead of the hall effect sensor, couldn't you just use the flywheelsensor?
There isn’t one on all models… if mine had one then def yes would’ve done that
Fly wheel sensor can not be used
good stuff
where did you get the gear for crankshaft position sensing?
Diy auto tune
what benefits do you get from this?
Independent control of timing and fueling and a bunch of other engine metrics… mostly beneficial for the turbo I added
@@max._jolley oh okay. So only really used for tuning
What map sensor are you using?
Just a GM 3 bar
Wiring the AEM UEGO controller ground to chassis ground will work but you may see some voltage (thus afr) difference between controller and Tuner Studio. Another option is to wire controller ground to sensor ground on Micro. Microsquirt makes this easy as ir has a 2nd sensor ground you can run.
What size trigger wheel? Is it the 8 1/4?
6 3/4
What does the white lettering say on the 124 spark diagram
Running batch injection I would think your gonna foul plugs like crazy, your also putting fuel in a cylinder that doesn't need it???
I completely explained what I was tryna say wrong because I didn’t fully understand it so disregard that part 💀💀
I’m running batch injection on a 3 cylinder SeaDoo. It’s fine. Fuel only goes in to the cylinder while the intake valve is open. It can puddle up on the back of the intake valve but as soon as air is moving it all gets blasted in to the cylinder. Mine idles nice and smooth