Yeah, but backup power generator is a good investment. It will be there after the utility company gets their shit together so it's not a loss, and you can run your AC. Mine is dual fuel so it runs on gas or propane. I love it.
As an electrician, the only concern I would have is the length of the run of your 10/3 and potential voltage drop, especially in this Louisiana heat. I saw when you fired up the saw that your bay lights dimmed. Just don't go crazy and turn on too many things at once. I ran my house like this after for a few days after Ida until I get could get the generator wired in properly.
That was my immediate concern as well. I think he said 400 foot of 10/3. Throwing a motor of a table saw and the dust collector running, plus lights and maybe fans due to heat with no AC, decent amp draw over long distance. Low voltage can damage things, especially if "temporary"is half a year or more. I feel for him though. We got this nonsense with our PoCo as well. You can do everything right and stay ahead and then they do whatever they want. We tend to avoid dealing with them as much as possible. I transfer services, do my own disconnects and reconnects, anything to avoid having any dependency on them. They'd be late to their own funeral.
So, "Mr electrician", no problem with the 40a feeder breaker on 150'+ of 10ga ? , NM run exposed ?, Undervolted /overheated electric motors ?What a joke, save the "as an electrician " moniker for after you've actually learned the trade.
"Hello, power company? Yeah, I want 200A power hooked up to a stub pole in the middle of my yard, for a street light. Thanks." I learned a long time ago to never get the meter attached to anything that needs an inspection. ya, you still get the building inspected when you build it, but in the mean time you have power, not excuses.
If the length from house panel to shop panel is 400 feet, and the wire size for that circuit is #10, you need to limit yourself to 10amps max. The wire is very under sized a cannot handle a 40amp load (wire size for a 40amp 400’ run is #4 copper). Overloading the circuit will cause a voltage drop which will lead to the wire getting very hot (think of a toaster coil) and your tools burning up. That’s why your lights are dimming (in rush of the tools motor) you may want to down size that 40amp breaker to a 10amp instead to prevent and more current than that wire can handle. Be careful.
@@burnstockwoodworking If you put a voltmeter on the circuit and watch when the saw powers up, I'd bet you'll see the voltage dip down towards 100volts - which is damaging to the motor. This voltage drop will also affect the power of the saw -- I'd leave the dust collector off when cutting any hardwood or thick stock. And if you plant to be working this way for the next 6 months, you really should replace that 10/3 cable with at least 8gauge. Also check the conductor size for the run between your main panel and that service post. It should be at least a 6gauge.
@@jeffeverde18ga/6ga are nowhere near adequate. He'd be lucky to get 100v... An overheated, arcing motor surrounded by sawdust is a recipe for disaster.
@@burnstockwoodworkingLmao, don’t forget that on a branch circuit you only get 80% of the amp rating as well. So now you’re down to 8 amps. Go pull the proper size wire to accommodate the voltage drop and please understand that #10 wire is only rated for 30 amps. 350$ on wire or a BURNED DOWN BUILDING AND USELESS TOOLS WITH DAMAGED MOTORS??
@@jamesjacobs-sj2il THHN wire will withstand 40 amps no problem even says that in the NEC codebook. except you are only allowed to fuse/ breaker protect it with 30 amps max. don't know what is inside your romex . the wires should say somewhere if not on the romex.
This is why I always install the box on a pole, instead of the house or building. Then the only things that has to pass code is the pole and the box,... and everything else can be connected after the inspectors leave.
@@LukePighetti If the main breaker box is mounted to the house or building, then the electric company will inspect the box and all the wiring connected to it before connecting the power. Everything will have to meet code. But if the main breaker box is mounted to a power pole, like the ones commonly used on manufacturer homes, and it's not connected to anything else,.. all they will inspect is the pole and the breaker box to meet code. Then after they have connected the power, you can connect everything else as you see fit...... up to code, of course. I would never suggest that anyone do anything illegal, unsafe, or that circumvented code. This will generally require having two separate breaker boxes. Again, just like a manufactured home. ***Again, I am not in anyway suggesting that anyone violate safety codes or the law. If in doubt, find someone who knows what they're doing or pay a professional.***
This is the way old farms were wired. The poco's service ended on a pole central to the house, barn, and other oitbuilings. The meter and disconnect were mounted on the pole and wires spiderwebbed to the various buildings with their own disconnects and subpanels. All the wires after the meter pole belonged to the customer.
I just discovered your channel. I’m glad I did. Thanks for sharing your ideas. It sucks that you had to go through all this crap. Been there done that. I lived in California for most of my life, I finally got smart and moved out of California to take land of the free. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your videos
We had a cable sink in the ground from trucks driving over it. The box and pole started on fire. Had it been on a barn or house = no more barn or house.
Once again, the red tape and incompetence of the bureaucracy screws the citizen. Kudos to you for refocusing and overcoming the adversity. Love your videos, please keep them coming.
Its not the bureaucracy. Its the Privately Owned, for Profit Power company. That, or its that crappy contractor who specified the wrong things in his design only to have the power company tell him what was really needed.
It's not bureaucracy, it's capitalism. All these smaller utility companies worry more about investor shares than providing service. There's a parts shortage? That wouldn't be a problem if they didn't wait until the last minute to replace old equipment. My parents ran into a similar situation with a water company...it took 5x as long as it should have for them to run a line and what should have cost less than $1,000 was over $3,000. Utility companies know people don't have a choice.
@@MacNeilR Really? It’s not in the interest of the for-profit power company to have a customer that will use even MORE power they can bill him for? Do you even understand how power companies make their money?
As someone who works for the power company, I completely understand. Make calls to the call center, if they have a regulating body (PSC is ours in NYS) threaten to call them and then actually call them if you still dont get anywhere. That usually gets things moving.
Seriously? 150' of 10/3 NMB, with the expected motor loads, run either in the open like an extension cord, or direct buried, and it's going to be in service that way for 6 months, and you consider that "Electrician Approved"? Ignoring the improper cable routing between the building and the pole, at the least he should be using 6 ga to deal with the significant voltage drop he's seeing due to the long' run. That will help with the undercurrent condition he's seeing when powering on the saw and DC.
@@richardpogue4959 half-ass attitude that probably matches the quality of your work. Ignoring the 150' of NMB being left continuously energized and exposed for 6 months, the voltage drop is hard on the motors of his expensive tools. Not to mention the effect of low voltage on the electronic control of the SawStop's saftey mechanism. And since you're an Electrician who's watching a woodworking video, I assume you understand that the low voltage to his table saw will cause the motor to bog on hard or thick stock, greatly increasing the risk of kickback.
You should be using 6ga wire for that distance and the 40A breaker. The larger wire will stop the lights from dimming when the equipment is first turned on.
And remove that bond!! In a sub panel, grounds and neutrals MUST be seperated, or it will create a serious shock hazard. Oh, and the 10ga wire on a 40 amp breaker is a serious Code violation, max ampacity for 10ga is 30 amps. Plus with that long of a run there is serious voltage drop.
Congrats on your ingenuity to get enough power to operate. The only thing I see that you are going to need to overcome (after your small shop) is no to get lost in that beautiful space. Congratulations on building your dream.
And just what does video tape do? Record the intrution that theres nothing you can do and that there is no accountabilty for their screw ups. THATS THE PROBLEM 😮s@SegoMan
You are a strong man. I could not take it anymore. Moved to a part of the Ozarks. No codes or permits or inspections for anything. I'm looking at an ad right now for a 30 x 40 x 10, installed on your pad for 12K. Lots of nice wood here too.
I'm in northern California. Build then back permit is one of the only ways to get ANYTHING done. You get one person in the chain that has "a bad day" you will never get permitted and signed off for years at a time. We live in bureaucracy hell and no lemonade in sight.
I love your attitude towards finding a work around. I would look into a generator or solar. I hate the red tape they love to throw at you at the last minute.
Well the thing about that is if you go solar you have to pay the electric company a service fee. Not a joke. Its like that in several states. There is no such thing as free power in this country. They will find a way to get you.
@@esmysyield2023You need to understand you are paying for a service still. You are talking about grid tied solar. There is little or no storage on the power grid. When it gets dark, they are providing you power. That requires staff, a power plant, fuel, etc. Costs. They have to cover those costs. It doesn't matter if you provide enough power to cover what you used. You still used a service and so charge you for it. Go fully off-grid if you don't like that. Then you pay for the cost of that after dark power directly.
I am guessing they are charging outrageous fees to get this power. 20K or more. Tell them to pound sand, and put in your own power system. You could do this two ways. Run your whole shop permanently off the 40A line, but install a battery bank and charger/inverter. Your average use is unlikely to tax that 40A line. The battery provides the extra amps needed when running bigger motors. But they usually run for shorter durations so you don't need an enormous battery bank to give you full output of the tools for a few hours. The other option is to go fully off grid with solar. The install will cost a bunch more. Particularly because the battery would need to be far larger and you have panels to buy. You can get the federal 30% rebate on it though.
It'd take a helluva wind turbine and battery bank to run a shop and you better live on a mountain top to have sufficient wind...I've looked into it for my mountain top home in Blowing Rock, NC where it's ALWAYS windy. Spoiler--it wasn't feasible.
I'm kinda in the same boat, I got a extension going from the house to the my shop, and when I need the Table Saw or welder, etc. I start up the generator for the heavy loads. I can so much relate to your problem, glad you found a solution.
2 words - "Video Camera" always videotape interactions so they can't weasel out of what they told you and agreed upon.. It's sad the world has come to this but as Walter Cronkite would say "That's the way it is"
Great to see your shop, as I'm finalizing plans now with the architect for my new shop. It's helpful to see a similarly sized space. Hang in there, buddy, these things all just take time to work through the process. You made it work for now & that's what matters!
Good for you man! I hope everything works out at the end! I had to transform my back patio into a shop. I'm in Los Angeles and the struggle is real here as well. I just subbed btw.
I know the feeling. Before I started the channel I was working on my back porch. Then I bought a shipping container and eventually the channel. You might like my earlier content. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the sub! I really appreciate it!
Oof man I feel you, we just finished up our renovations to the house, the contractor was superb but the city inspectors..... and we are not done yet as we ran out of money, so now I end up making and fitting the last stuff. Good luck let look to the future, hope you enjoy that shop.
Congrats on your new shop but so sorry for all the trouble with the power. But you’ve got a great attitude about things so when you do get your power you will be totally ready to go best of luck on getting it done
Plywood for walls! Good man! I used 5/8 OSB on the 20’ x 20’ room shell over my shop and then made it a huge BR, dressing room, and BIG bathroom. The entire ceiling is 5/8” plywood. TRUISM: All roofs leak eventually…sheetrock fails but OSB and plywood simply dry out once leak is fixed! Keep up the good work and creative planning/thinking!
the voltage drop because of the distance will burn up your tools , you should install a buck /boost transformer so your tools have the correct voltage and not burn up ---good luck
Congrats for the new shop, dude! Really fantastic space you got there!!! 😃 But yeah, they almost screwed you up... Almost! Well done, fantastic solution! 😃 I'm also dealing with the electricity company, because I'm installing solar panels here. But luckily it's been smooth so far... They already changed the meter there... I don't know the name in English... And they're going to install the panels on Wednesday (October 30). So... Let's see how it goes. 😬 (But I'm installing without batteries for now, still on grid... I'm going to leave it for the future for now.) Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Pounding that like button and letting those ads roll in support for your channel. Glad you got power. Hopefully I’ll have mine restored today from the Thursday storm. New poles went up last night. Feeling optimistic
Tough break - updated the 100 amp service to my home to 200 amp. Worked directly with my electrician as well as the utility provider, Central Maine Power. Made several phone calls to the utility company, always getting the full name and phone number as well as email to get everything on record. Although delayed by weather related events (totally understandable), the work got done (disconnect, reconnect meter, socket, etc.). Critical to bring the utility directly into the loop.
Thanks! I would've as well, however, the existing wire was 10 gauge that I tied into and I was trying to keep the expense as low as possible. Thanks for commenting!
Adding to the chorus below - I have a couple of recommendations: Treat that extension cord as what it is. Unplug it and coil it up every night. Get a meter of some sort for the end of run (kill-a-watt or whatever) and unplug tools or lights if the voltage drops below 100 (or 200 if 220) at the tools, or if the connection gets warm. Consider talking to an actual electrician about re-wiring the saw to 220 (most of them will do it) to reduce the ampere draw on the line. Maybe get a generator to run the shop separately from the saw. Good luck.
Good for you in figuring out a workaround. I was going to make the suggestion of telling the utility company to go pound sand and just install a generator and proceed without them, but your fix works as well and it's cheaper to do, so win win.
Congrats on your new shop! If I heard you correctly, your Romex run of 10-3, especially at the distance you're running it might be undersized. Usually we run #8 for a 40A circuit, at your distance, you'd be safer to run #6. It also might mitigate the dimming of your lights when you turn on your table saw. Consult a licensed electrician and the NEC Wire Size/Run Distance/ Ampacity Chart!
I came to say the same thing. 10 gauge wire is only approved for a maximum of 30 amps. And yes because of the distance I would upgrade it to 6 gauge instead of 8 gauge. It will help with the light dimming for sure.
I would but it'd be significantly more expensive for such a temporary thing. I just can't justify spending the extra money (more than I've already spent) for something that will be temporary.
@@burnstockwoodworking Just be cautious of using multiple high amperage machines/appliances at the same time and you should be fine temporarily. And if multiple are needed such as saws plus dust collection power up the machine that draws the most power first. The peak amperage is typically during startup unless you’re overworking the machine, this will help reduce breakers tripping during initial startup.
Solar + Wind with a power wall (or two). Higher upfront costs but lower costs over time. 40 amp service as a top-up source or for use with "time of use" billing. Operator-facing fans will help with the heat and help control dust.
Or grow up. Life's a b... Then you die. He saved 20, 50 g doing all the elec work instead of hiring an elec who works w utility every week & has a "relationship" or just knows up front what crap is coming & compensates. Take your savings & be happy.
Congrats on beating them. You might be able to use one of those power generators that have been advertised on woodworking videos a lot in the last 6-12 months. Maybe it could run an AC?
That was a genius solution, the heat will pass but I understand how bad it can be . I use fans in my garage shop . Shop is looking good. So much usable space , nice
For $50k you could have installed a nice 50a Victron solar system that would run AC and your tools without the power company ever getting a cent! I have a 2000 watt system on my RV that costs $15K The system is getting cheaper It s the Lifepo4 batteries that' are the Biggest investment. I'm Using Battle Born game changers they have 10 year warranties. You can buy cheaper brands . And if you don't use the shop at night it's a no brainier just let that 40a circuit charge the battery if you didn't get enough sun, that would be the only coat if you don't want to install enough PV panels.
Hello ...you can run another 8/3 or 10/3 from main breaker from the house place a sub panel for split unit a/c (110) and that should carry you ... and any other 240/ 20amp tools
I did not see your post earlier, run a parallel supply line 10-3 to panel and voltage drop will be signifcantly less (dimming of lights when you turn on a motor table saw etc.) and it will help prevent low voltgage damage to your equipment and allow you to use dust removal concurrently until permanent service is activated.Ray Stormont
Good for you! I am building a 30x40 shop too. My Electrical CO-OP ran across the property I bought at a diagonal without an Easement so I asked them to move it since it went under the only place I can build with septic and setback rules. They told me if I did ALL the work they would ONLY charge me $30,000. They took 1 1/2 years to answer.
Absolutely ! Me to trench 200', bury 2" conduit, Them to replace the 50 year old direct burial wire. Finally said if I would set the meter bases they would run the 10' to transformer for $8500 including engineering fee. If I would sign a Utility Easement I could build to 3' instead of 10' of the diagonal underground run. CO-OPs are supposed to be Customer Owned, this one has an Us against Them attitude. @@burnstockwoodworking
If you have room in your house box, you could have put the correct size breaker in and forget the delimma with the power company. When I bought my property, I did that very thing. Installed breaker, got wire, conduit, breaker box for inside of shop. 15 years later never missed a stroke. No blinking lights either. Power tools and welder humming nicely.
I am sorry you are going through this. It took me over a year of run around and backtracking to get power to my land. I travel through an "easement" (titled into the property) to get to my land. The person in the 5 acres closest to the road has a power box at the end of his property put there for our property to also have power. After a 6mth wait for booking the power run, At the last minute the Electrical company needed a survey of his property and legal documentation to run the power through the titled easement to make sure we were not on his property. Surveyors were booking 6mth out.
One single (big ass fan) mounted center of shop keeps good air moving well. Does not use extreme power. Hookup for solar by itself would work great. Best of luck with the sucky system . You will find a way!!!!
I wired a backup generator in a similar fashion when we lost power. I didn't want to lose a refrigerator full of food yet again. I upgraded my panel to a 200A panel after than and installed a generator inlet. Now I can power everything in my house except my electric stove an A/C unit. Now I'm working on getting a soft start for the A/C to be able to run that off the generator as well.
Why do you need a separate meter for the shop? I'm sure you are doing a business, but if you can track the usage of the house over time, you can figure how much extra the shop uses. How far away is the house and what size service does it have? Just run a line from the main panel at the house to the shop and use the house service. If you overload their transformer and blow it up, they have to replace it. There was a story in my area some years back that a utility employee told me about. There were a number of houses on a dead end utility line and the transformer was not large enough. The utility wouldn't change it out. The home owners banded together and turned on every possible appliance to over load the transformer and burn it up. THEN the transformer got replaced with a larger one.
Looks good. It took me over 13 years to finally break down and have a mini-split installed in my shop. Thought I could make it in summer and winter with fans and "milk house" heaters. Couldn't make it any further. Summer in upper Central Texas almost killed me.
I'm going to be putting in a mini split very soon after I get legitimate power. Makes it way easier to go work in an air conditioned shop. Southeast Louisiana here so I feel ya on the summer heat
Looked into building a house in Montana. Put an offer in on a 10 acre property that had a transformer already on the corner of the property and we were told by the power company it would be 35K to hook up to power. We decided we didn't need a house in Mt. We talked to the neighbor in the process of building a house they told him the same thing. He told them, "well you just talked me into going Solar" and a 30KW generator for overcast and rainey days etc. Crazy!!!!!!!.
Could you run a fan or two? Might help. Hoping to do a 30’x42’ Quonset hut next year. 15’ of of one end will be living space, the rest will be my wood/ metal shop. Neat build. In my barn/shop all of my tool stands are wheeled, a HF mini mill, a very big table saw, a router sled table for cedar pies and a 4x4 workbench. My house has a Generac but it’s not connected to the barn.
Here in SE texas got you beat. 1 year wait for underground ( pad mount transformers) took 2 months longer to get 3 for our 4 buildings had to stop building 6 buildings because they can not yell us when or if we will get the missing 4 pad mount transformers at about 1.6 years so far
If heavier gage wire is unavailable and if your 40- and 30-amp hreakers can be double-tapped, consider doubling conductors for your temporary supply. On another note, how big is your A/C that 30 amps won't start it?
sounds like a good reason for solar .. I get free 250w panels that end up needing diodes .. I plan on using just for lights in the house.. then as I get more and buy more I plan on increasing the sizing
Great job love the new shop! We built a house 26 years ago we did ourselves. Had a similar situation but with the septic I spent 18,000 on a raised drain field and they told me I couldn’t use because they was going to run city sewer. I understand the frustration it ridiculous they do stuff like this. Stay strong my friend things will workout it did for us
We usually run ground up on outlets in a shop or garage. There is no required orientation but ground up is slightly safer. And cords less likely to come out. You should run a soft start or thicker wire. You can get bigger cover plates for the sloppy holes.
A 3 ton residential AC if about 13 amps for the outside unit and a couple more for the blower which is 15amps @ 220vac. Multiplied together that 3,300 Watts. You can get 300 Watt solar panels for about $60 each and just 10 will give you 3000 Watts; but you have to double that for when clouds come and drop it all down by half. If you use batteries just as a buffer (because panel voltages fluctuate) you can build a bank out of cheap $40 lead-acid lawn mower batteries. You can use a cheap 10 amp DC to DC buck converter to regulate a single panel's voltage down the 14.5vdc to charge a single battery in a bank (one panel for each battery) or you can seires pairs of panels and use 10 amp DC to DC boost converters to charge a whole bank with the output of multiple converters in parallel. Just set the outputs the same at about 3-4 volts higher than the bank voltage so the current from them will get pushed into the batteries. I use (10) 12v batteries series-ed in a bank for 75vdc because there are plenty of DC to AC inverters currently available that will handle banks up to 75vdc. You can parallel banks too but you can't parallel the inverter AC outputs (unless you wire the control section of one to drive the power sections of others which is beyond most people's knowledge of how to do) and manufacturers lie about output ratings too. If you want over 3,000 Watts @ 220 vac continuous you should get at least a 6,000 Watt inverter. Only drag is most are made for 48vdc input so if you have 20 panels to 20 12v batteries you would have to parallel five banks of four in series and 6000 Watt inverters are around a grand and a half price wise. That's why I built my AC out of multiple automotive AC units and run each off 72vdc 3000 Watt Chinese Bldc motors with an included drive module for about $200 each; but then you still have condenser fans and evaporator blowers that have to be powered. Bottom line is you don't have to finance some big ass way expensive system just to get solar AC but you will need at least 16 to 20 panels, batteries for buffers, plus converters to charge them, and inverters to discharge them to your load.
Wish I lived close by. I'm retired now, but still have my excavator and could run that line underground. Later when you get your electric service you could use the RV line as a secondary service so it wouldn't go to waste.
Glad this is moving forward for you. I was guessing the problem was much bigger than six months. I thought perhaps the city had shut down a commercial business in a residential zone. Wishing you more good news to come!
yeah, Matt from Diesel creek had issues getting power to his shop at a cost of about $60K, just for the power, even though he did all of the trenching, conduit, & transformer pad.
fire is a big hazard in any workshop, hence planning is needed: fire extnguishers but also a garden water hose but in that case care must be given to electrical wiring, it runs on the floor and will get in contact with water...an overall breaker for the whole workshop would be required. Any ideas as fire exting. will last 30-40 seconds and the workshop is full of dried wood and sawdust. what would you recommend ?
I think a regular extinguisher is fine. If there is a risk of the fire getting into sawdust before you can put it out, I really think you should consider GTFOing instead of fire fighting. Search up "dust explosion". Fires can go from "easy to extinguish" to "holy shit GET OUT" in, like, a minute, or even less with easy combustibles like sawdust.
Are you planning on planting large shade trees, if so, plant ASAP to grow your own natural shade. And, there is always swamp coolers if needed in your area.
Glad you were able to get up and running, even if it's in a slightly diminished capacity. Sorry about the heat. Not sure who ordered it but it's been killing me too.
Is what it is. I've been looking for the receipt on the heat but can't seem to find it. I think it may be all the people that were whining about the cold last winter that placed the order 😆😆
If you need a running cat DH2 from the 90s and some 1 in plate steel I say in about 6 months when they show up we can have it ready to take it out for a test drive to the Parrish Louisiana power company headquarters
I applaud your ingenuity for your temp fix, I would look into what kind of formal complaint or even lawsuit you could send to the power company since if your electrical needs/plans didn't change from when they first approved your layout to when they decided the transformer needed a redesign then there should have been no reason for the change on their end, if they are telling you that you have to pay for the transformer redesign and install that's basically fraud.
I haven't read all of the comments, but my time in service made me first think of getting a surplus 10kw generator on a trailer. They even work in war zones. 👊😜
I know i saw this video a bit late, but an easy solution in my opinion would be a 48v inverter with like 10kwh of battery. The cost would be around $4k but you can then feed the power as it is now into the inverter to charge the battery bank. it will utilize both grid and battery to power your loads being much more stable for equipment.
Wowser, not fair. But you have power. Thank you for sharing your awesome new workshop. Everyone stay safe, happy 😊😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Great you got it going. FYI- 10AWG run 150' for a 240V circuit is only good for 20A with a 3% voltage drop. I'm sure this will get you by, just keep that 20A limit in mind for any extended current draw.
So sorry about your run in with insane bureaucracy!! I sorta had a corollary problem … trying to run my small shop out of a 10x20 storage unit … NO electricity! So, I rigged up a Ryobi 1800w battery power inverter … and it works. Powers a mitre saw, band saw, drill press and LED lighting. Just take the portable inverter home to recharge each night.
One of the reasons we moved to rural Oklahoma was to avoid this kind of crazy. The electrical co-op brought power to a panel outside with a meter box. I added two disconnect switches, then buried 3" conduit running to six different buildings. I brought power into the buildings and did all of the inside wiring myself. Totally up to code. Zero permits. Zero inspections. The only inspection we had was to install the septic system because that's how the state assesses property taxes. The inspector worked for the septic company doing the install. I even installed a culvert on a county road. No permits.
It's works for now, but the government will get you or who ever owns the property in the future. My restaurant was fully up to code, inspected and passed with a 100%. We added a 15x25 kitchen and now the city wants to see blueprints of the old part? Lol gtfo
@@RipliWitani There's a different standard for restaurants. About 20 years ago, we had our kids in a private christian school. They had a full kitchen and were making lunches for the kids. But the government kept nitpicking them. Stupid stuff, like this hood over the stove is 1" too low. They eventually made them remodel the entire kitchen, which they did. Then just a year later, they started finding even more infractions. They finally had to shut down the kitchen and started catering lunches. It's about politics and control. They just hated that the kids weren't in public schools. They may come for houses some day. But even following codes now won't matter. They'll just manufacture some other reason to mess with you. Having said that, our entire place is code compliant. There just weren't any inspections or enforcement.
Glad to see I'm not the only one who spaces screws evenly across things, even when it doesn't matter or is overkill. (I actually didn't even realize it until someone saw me doing it and asked why, lol.)
if you want AC, get a Micro-Air Easy Start, but you might not be able to use as many tools when AC is running, keep the RV post out there just in case, you can argue a temp setup vs a perm setup
If it’s the same in your area as mine, you’ll need another inspection just before the power company installs your meter. Be careful they don’t see your “jerry rigged” service entrance.
150’ of 10/3 plus the 8/3 likely underground to the RV tap has a significant resistance issue over that distance….some engineers also deduct 20 percent additionally for underground service…so a 6 wire copper or even 224 URD feeder would be a cleaner choice…and and capable of higher amperage’s…and loads…and not far in cost from 10/3 UF…..money is always an issue of course…good luck!
I was going to say that some states will let the owners do all of the prep work. And they just come in and lay the wire and hook it up. But you have already done that.
You should probably get a lock out for the main breaker incase someone were to accidentally turn it on if it’s hooked up to anything else you could back feed that system potentially damaging appliances or worse someone else. I don’t know exactly what your situation is or if there’s even anything tied into that main breaker but that’s my advice
You could have run a heavier gauge, would have cost a little more but 10 gauge is a little lite for the for your senario. Even if it is 10 at the pole you can go heavier downstream.
Sounds like a good time for a back up generator for the shop and house.
Yea, starting to seem that way.
Unfortunately, backup generation is very expensive to run.
Always a negative.🤞
Yeah, but backup power generator is a good investment. It will be there after the utility company gets their shit together so it's not a loss, and you can run your AC.
Mine is dual fuel so it runs on gas or propane. I love it.
Solar Ecoflow Pro is awesome.
As an electrician, the only concern I would have is the length of the run of your 10/3 and potential voltage drop, especially in this Louisiana heat. I saw when you fired up the saw that your bay lights dimmed. Just don't go crazy and turn on too many things at once. I ran my house like this after for a few days after Ida until I get could get the generator wired in properly.
Thanks! Ida was a bear
It is only temporary until he gets regular power.
That was my immediate concern as well. I think he said 400 foot of 10/3. Throwing a motor of a table saw and the dust collector running, plus lights and maybe fans due to heat with no AC, decent amp draw over long distance. Low voltage can damage things, especially if "temporary"is half a year or more. I feel for him though. We got this nonsense with our PoCo as well. You can do everything right and stay ahead and then they do whatever they want. We tend to avoid dealing with them as much as possible. I transfer services, do my own disconnects and reconnects, anything to avoid having any dependency on them. They'd be late to their own funeral.
So, "Mr electrician", no problem with the 40a feeder breaker on 150'+ of 10ga ? , NM run exposed ?, Undervolted /overheated electric motors ?What a joke, save the "as an electrician " moniker for after you've actually learned the trade.
@@flashbazbo694
I agree. That’s some janky, dangerous “work around”.
"Hello, power company? Yeah, I want 200A power hooked up to a stub pole in the middle of my yard, for a street light. Thanks." I learned a long time ago to never get the meter attached to anything that needs an inspection. ya, you still get the building inspected when you build it, but in the mean time you have power, not excuses.
If the length from house panel to shop panel is 400 feet, and the wire size for that circuit is #10, you need to limit yourself to 10amps max. The wire is very under sized a cannot handle a 40amp load (wire size for a 40amp 400’ run is #4 copper). Overloading the circuit will cause a voltage drop which will lead to the wire getting very hot (think of a toaster coil) and your tools burning up. That’s why your lights are dimming (in rush of the tools motor) you may want to down size that 40amp breaker to a 10amp instead to prevent and more current than that wire can handle.
Be careful.
I'll have to consider that, thanks for the comment!
@@burnstockwoodworking If you put a voltmeter on the circuit and watch when the saw powers up, I'd bet you'll see the voltage dip down towards 100volts - which is damaging to the motor. This voltage drop will also affect the power of the saw -- I'd leave the dust collector off when cutting any hardwood or thick stock. And if you plant to be working this way for the next 6 months, you really should replace that 10/3 cable with at least 8gauge. Also check the conductor size for the run between your main panel and that service post. It should be at least a 6gauge.
@@jeffeverde18ga/6ga are nowhere near adequate. He'd be lucky to get 100v...
An overheated, arcing motor surrounded by sawdust is a recipe for disaster.
@@burnstockwoodworkingLmao, don’t forget that on a branch circuit you only get 80% of the amp rating as well. So now you’re down to 8 amps. Go pull the proper size wire to accommodate the voltage drop and please understand that #10 wire is only rated for 30 amps. 350$ on wire or a BURNED DOWN BUILDING AND USELESS TOOLS WITH DAMAGED MOTORS??
@@jamesjacobs-sj2il THHN wire will withstand 40 amps no problem even says that in the NEC codebook. except you are only allowed to fuse/ breaker protect it with 30 amps max. don't know what is inside your romex . the wires should say somewhere if not on the romex.
This is why I always install the box on a pole, instead of the house or building.
Then the only things that has to pass code is the pole and the box,... and everything else can be connected after the inspectors leave.
@@LukePighetti If the main breaker box is mounted to the house or building, then the electric company will inspect the box and all the wiring connected to it before connecting the power. Everything will have to meet code.
But if the main breaker box is mounted to a power pole, like the ones commonly used on manufacturer homes, and it's not connected to anything else,.. all they will inspect is the pole and the breaker box to meet code. Then after they have connected the power, you can connect everything else as you see fit...... up to code, of course. I would never suggest that anyone do anything illegal, unsafe, or that circumvented code.
This will generally require having two separate breaker boxes. Again, just like a manufactured home.
***Again, I am not in anyway suggesting that anyone violate safety codes or the law. If in doubt, find someone who knows what they're doing or pay a professional.***
@@StillLivinginthewoods thanks for the tip!
This is the way old farms were wired. The poco's service ended on a pole central to the house, barn, and other oitbuilings. The meter and disconnect were mounted on the pole and wires spiderwebbed to the various buildings with their own disconnects and subpanels.
All the wires after the meter pole belonged to the customer.
I just discovered your channel. I’m glad I did. Thanks for sharing your ideas. It sucks that you had to go through all this crap. Been there done that. I lived in California for most of my life, I finally got smart and moved out of California to take land of the free. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your videos
We had a cable sink in the ground from trucks driving over it. The box and pole started on fire. Had it been on a barn or house = no more barn or house.
Once again, the red tape and incompetence of the bureaucracy screws the citizen. Kudos to you for refocusing and overcoming the adversity. Love your videos, please keep them coming.
Thanks!
Its not the bureaucracy. Its the Privately Owned, for Profit Power company. That, or its that crappy contractor who specified the wrong things in his design only to have the power company tell him what was really needed.
It's not bureaucracy, it's capitalism. All these smaller utility companies worry more about investor shares than providing service. There's a parts shortage? That wouldn't be a problem if they didn't wait until the last minute to replace old equipment. My parents ran into a similar situation with a water company...it took 5x as long as it should have for them to run a line and what should have cost less than $1,000 was over $3,000. Utility companies know people don't have a choice.
Nope, not bureaucracy or red tape, it's just not in the interest of the Privately Owned, for Profit Power company.
@@MacNeilR Really? It’s not in the interest of the for-profit power company to have a customer that will use even MORE power they can bill him for? Do you even understand how power companies make their money?
As someone who works for the power company, I completely understand. Make calls to the call center, if they have a regulating body (PSC is ours in NYS) threaten to call them and then actually call them if you still dont get anywhere. That usually gets things moving.
As an Electrician, I approve this message!!! Congrats on the new shop can’t wait to get mine built.
Thanks!
Seriously? 150' of 10/3 NMB, with the expected motor loads, run either in the open like an extension cord, or direct buried, and it's going to be in service that way for 6 months, and you consider that "Electrician Approved"?
Ignoring the improper cable routing between the building and the pole, at the least he should be using 6 ga to deal with the significant voltage drop he's seeing due to the long' run. That will help with the undercurrent condition he's seeing when powering on the saw and DC.
@@jeffeverde1 it’s temp power to get him through until he can get final approval it obviously will work for the time being so get off my sack
Richard, you obviously are at best, what we electricians refer to as a romex jockey...
Learn the trade first, then comment.
@@richardpogue4959 half-ass attitude that probably matches the quality of your work. Ignoring the 150' of NMB being left continuously energized and exposed for 6 months, the voltage drop is hard on the motors of his expensive tools. Not to mention the effect of low voltage on the electronic control of the SawStop's saftey mechanism. And since you're an Electrician who's watching a woodworking video, I assume you understand that the low voltage to his table saw will cause the motor to bog on hard or thick stock, greatly increasing the risk of kickback.
You should be using 6ga wire for that distance and the 40A breaker. The larger wire will stop the lights from dimming when the equipment is first turned on.
I suport your comment. Biger dimension of wires or compensetion transformer.... after no more voltage drop.
RETIRED ELECTRICIAN HERE,DEFINITELY WOULD HAVE USED 6/3with ground! FOR THAT LONG OF RUN !
Thats why you turn the lights off when you run heavy draw equipment LOL
@@M.TTT.Lmao
As someone who has been designing industrial automation controls since '78:
Absolutely CORRECT 6 gauge wire will make a big difference.
If that was a main electrical panel that you are now using as a sub-panel, you need to check to see if you have the ground and neutral bonded.
And remove that bond!! In a sub panel, grounds and neutrals MUST be seperated, or it will create a serious shock hazard.
Oh, and the 10ga wire on a 40 amp breaker is a serious Code violation, max ampacity for 10ga is 30 amps. Plus with that long of a run there is serious voltage drop.
Buy a generator. It’s cheaper than replacing everything.
The power company didn't want to make it happen within a reasonable timeline. Glad to see you had the fortitude to find a way and do it yourself.
Thanks!
Congrats on your ingenuity to get enough power to operate.
The only thing I see that you are going to need to overcome (after your small shop) is no to get lost in that beautiful space.
Congratulations on building your dream.
😂😂 it is hard to get used to for sure! I've NEVER had a space this large, especially for woodworking only
Be careful. The dimming of the lights is voltage drop. Voltage drop can and will burn up stuff. 400 ft needs about a #2 wire size.
As somebody that works for a contractor, I get it. That’s absolutely ridiculous to get that runaround, power to ya for finding a solution.
That's why you videotape all interactions..
And just what does video tape do? Record the intrution that theres nothing you can do and that there is no accountabilty for their screw ups. THATS THE PROBLEM 😮s@SegoMan
You are a strong man. I could not take it anymore. Moved to a part of the Ozarks. No codes or permits or inspections for anything.
I'm looking at an ad right now for a 30 x 40 x 10, installed on your pad for 12K.
Lots of nice wood here too.
Room for 7 more? 😂😂
I'm in northern California. Build then back permit is one of the only ways to get ANYTHING done. You get one person in the chain that has "a bad day" you will never get permitted and signed off for years at a time. We live in bureaucracy hell and no lemonade in sight.
I love your attitude towards finding a work around. I would look into a generator or solar. I hate the red tape they love to throw at you at the last minute.
Thanks! It is what it is at this point but I'm still coming out on top in the long run.
Since it's going to be 6 months I would be looking into solar or wind power or combination of both, just as a FU to the power company.
Well the thing about that is if you go solar you have to pay the electric company a service fee. Not a joke. Its like that in several states. There is no such thing as free power in this country. They will find a way to get you.
@esmysyield2023 so you have to pay them to keep the electricity off, so if you don't pay your bill do they turn it on ?
@@esmysyield2023You need to understand you are paying for a service still. You are talking about grid tied solar. There is little or no storage on the power grid. When it gets dark, they are providing you power. That requires staff, a power plant, fuel, etc. Costs. They have to cover those costs. It doesn't matter if you provide enough power to cover what you used. You still used a service and so charge you for it.
Go fully off-grid if you don't like that. Then you pay for the cost of that after dark power directly.
I am guessing they are charging outrageous fees to get this power. 20K or more. Tell them to pound sand, and put in your own power system.
You could do this two ways. Run your whole shop permanently off the 40A line, but install a battery bank and charger/inverter. Your average use is unlikely to tax that 40A line. The battery provides the extra amps needed when running bigger motors. But they usually run for shorter durations so you don't need an enormous battery bank to give you full output of the tools for a few hours.
The other option is to go fully off grid with solar. The install will cost a bunch more. Particularly because the battery would need to be far larger and you have panels to buy. You can get the federal 30% rebate on it though.
It'd take a helluva wind turbine and battery bank to run a shop and you better live on a mountain top to have sufficient wind...I've looked into it for my mountain top home in Blowing Rock, NC where it's ALWAYS windy. Spoiler--it wasn't feasible.
I'm kinda in the same boat, I got a extension going from the house to the my shop, and when I need the Table Saw or welder, etc. I start up the generator for the heavy loads. I can so much relate to your problem, glad you found a solution.
They say you can’t fight City Hall. You proved them wrong. I love it. Good luck with the rest of your shop-build! 👏
Thanks!
Bro, city hall doesn't run the power company. With few exceptions, power utilities are for profit, capitalist companies.
2 words - "Video Camera" always videotape interactions so they can't weasel out of what they told you and agreed upon.. It's sad the world has come to this but as Walter Cronkite would say "That's the way it is"
You can you just need a bull dozer and a welder 😂😂😂
Great to see your shop, as I'm finalizing plans now with the architect for my new shop. It's helpful to see a similarly sized space. Hang in there, buddy, these things all just take time to work through the process. You made it work for now & that's what matters!
Good for you man! I hope everything works out at the end! I had to transform my back patio into a shop. I'm in Los Angeles and the struggle is real here as well. I just subbed btw.
I know the feeling. Before I started the channel I was working on my back porch. Then I bought a shipping container and eventually the channel. You might like my earlier content. Welcome to the channel and thanks for the sub! I really appreciate it!
Oof man I feel you, we just finished up our renovations to the house, the contractor was superb but the city inspectors..... and we are not done yet as we ran out of money, so now I end up making and fitting the last stuff. Good luck let look to the future, hope you enjoy that shop.
Congrats on your new shop but so sorry for all the trouble with the power. But you’ve got a great attitude about things so when you do get your power you will be totally ready to go best of luck on getting it done
Thanks!
Plywood for walls! Good man!
I used 5/8 OSB on the 20’ x 20’ room shell over my shop and then made it a huge BR, dressing room, and BIG bathroom. The entire ceiling is 5/8” plywood.
TRUISM: All roofs leak eventually…sheetrock fails but OSB and plywood simply dry out once leak is fixed!
Keep up the good work and creative planning/thinking!
Looking good! Moving into a bigger shop is such a great feeling.
It really is! Thanks!
the voltage drop because of the distance will burn up your tools , you should install a buck /boost transformer so your tools have the correct voltage and not burn up ---good luck
Bro he’s running a #10 wire for 40amps
Congrats for the new shop, dude! Really fantastic space you got there!!! 😃
But yeah, they almost screwed you up... Almost! Well done, fantastic solution! 😃
I'm also dealing with the electricity company, because I'm installing solar panels here. But luckily it's been smooth so far... They already changed the meter there... I don't know the name in English... And they're going to install the panels on Wednesday (October 30). So... Let's see how it goes. 😬
(But I'm installing without batteries for now, still on grid... I'm going to leave it for the future for now.)
Anyway, stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
Thanks and good luck on the solar! It's a great investment for sure
Great video man enjoyed it a lot. Great job with the shop and working with what you have.
Thanks!
Pounding that like button and letting those ads roll in support for your channel. Glad you got power. Hopefully I’ll have mine restored today from the Thursday storm. New poles went up last night. Feeling optimistic
Thanks, and good luck! Hopefully you'll get power soon!
Tough break - updated the 100 amp service to my home to 200 amp. Worked directly with my electrician as well as the utility provider, Central Maine Power. Made several phone calls to the utility company, always getting the full name and phone number as well as email to get everything on record. Although delayed by weather related events (totally understandable), the work got done (disconnect, reconnect meter, socket, etc.). Critical to bring the utility directly into the loop.
Great-looking shop, great solution to the power issue.
I would have gone with a larger gauge wire like an 8 gauge.
Thanks! I would've as well, however, the existing wire was 10 gauge that I tied into and I was trying to keep the expense as low as possible. Thanks for commenting!
Adding to the chorus below - I have a couple of recommendations: Treat that extension cord as what it is. Unplug it and coil it up every night. Get a meter of some sort for the end of run (kill-a-watt or whatever) and unplug tools or lights if the voltage drops below 100 (or 200 if 220) at the tools, or if the connection gets warm. Consider talking to an actual electrician about re-wiring the saw to 220 (most of them will do it) to reduce the ampere draw on the line.
Maybe get a generator to run the shop separately from the saw. Good luck.
Im sorry you are going thru all this. I will definitely add you to our prayers. Im glad you figured out a temporary fix.
Is what it is, thanks!
Good for you in figuring out a workaround. I was going to make the suggestion of telling the utility company to go pound sand and just install a generator and proceed without them, but your fix works as well and it's cheaper to do, so win win.
Congrats on your new shop! If I heard you correctly, your Romex run of 10-3, especially at the distance you're running it might be undersized. Usually we run #8 for a 40A circuit, at your distance, you'd be safer to run #6. It also might mitigate the dimming of your lights when you turn on your table saw. Consult a licensed electrician and the NEC Wire Size/Run Distance/
Ampacity Chart!
I came to say the same thing. 10 gauge wire is only approved for a maximum of 30 amps. And yes because of the distance I would upgrade it to 6 gauge instead of 8 gauge. It will help with the light dimming for sure.
I would but it'd be significantly more expensive for such a temporary thing. I just can't justify spending the extra money (more than I've already spent) for something that will be temporary.
@@burnstockwoodworking Just be cautious of using multiple high amperage machines/appliances at the same time and you should be fine temporarily. And if multiple are needed such as saws plus dust collection power up the machine that draws the most power first. The peak amperage is typically during startup unless you’re overworking the machine, this will help reduce breakers tripping during initial startup.
Could change to #6 wire and add a minisplit
Solar + Wind with a power wall (or two). Higher upfront costs but lower costs over time. 40 amp service as a top-up source or for use with "time of use" billing. Operator-facing fans will help with the heat and help control dust.
The BS that we have to go thru with utilities/city employees kills me. There are few things as stressful as this. Glad you got it up and running!
Thanks!
Or grow up. Life's a b... Then you die. He saved 20, 50 g doing all the elec work instead of hiring an elec who works w utility every week & has a "relationship" or just knows up front what crap is coming & compensates. Take your savings & be happy.
@@russell7489lol… you’ve never dealt with city workers.
Excellent Excellent, improvise, adapt, overcome. Glad I found the channel. Looking forward to seeing more.
I'm glad ya found it too, welcome to the channel and thanks for the comment!
Congrats on beating them. You might be able to use one of those power generators that have been advertised on woodworking videos a lot in the last 6-12 months. Maybe it could run an AC?
Thanks! Yep, I applied for an affiliate with Jackery, that was my first course of action actually. Haven't heard anything back but it's all good
He maybe able to put on a softstart and work it
That was a genius solution, the heat will pass but I understand how bad it can be . I use fans in my garage shop . Shop is looking good. So much usable space , nice
Thanks! No end in the immediate sight for the heatwave but as seasons go it'll cool off ...in a few years at least 😆
Cutting corners and creating the potential to burn your new shop down is in no way a "genius" solution.
For $50k you could have installed a nice 50a Victron solar system that would run AC and your tools without the power company ever getting a cent! I have a 2000 watt system on my RV that costs $15K The system is getting cheaper It s the Lifepo4 batteries that' are the Biggest investment. I'm Using Battle Born game changers they have 10 year warranties. You can buy cheaper brands . And if you don't use the shop at night it's a no brainier just let that 40a circuit charge the battery if you didn't get enough sun, that would be the only coat if you don't want to install enough PV panels.
Glad you overcame. Good luck
Thanks!
Hello ...you can run another 8/3 or 10/3 from main breaker from the house place a sub panel for split unit a/c (110) and that should carry you ... and any other 240/ 20amp tools
This is why people are fed up with city's and counties and move out to where there are no building codes or electrical codes.
This is utility caused. All the inspections passed.
Amazing shop, my friend. Your shop, your way. And yes, our Louisiana heatwave is rough right now. Especially with all the wildfires statewide.
Thanks! We'll get through it, always do
Sadly, we have people in positions of responsibility who supposedly work for us but in reality do not. They should be fired!
People like us gotta keep plugging away!
I did not see your post earlier, run a parallel supply line 10-3 to panel and voltage drop will be signifcantly less (dimming of lights when you turn on a motor table saw etc.) and it will help prevent low voltgage damage to your equipment and allow you to use dust removal concurrently until permanent service is activated.Ray Stormont
Thanks!
Good for you! I am building a 30x40 shop too. My Electrical CO-OP ran across the property I bought at a diagonal without an Easement so I asked them to move it since it went under the only place I can build with septic and setback rules. They told me if I did ALL the work they would ONLY charge me $30,000. They took 1 1/2 years to answer.
30k for what?!
Absolutely ! Me to trench 200', bury 2" conduit, Them to replace the 50 year old direct burial wire. Finally said if I would set the meter bases they would run the 10' to transformer for $8500 including engineering fee. If I would sign a Utility Easement I could build to 3' instead of 10' of the diagonal underground run. CO-OPs are supposed to be Customer Owned, this one has an Us against Them attitude.
@@burnstockwoodworking
If you have room in your house box, you could have put the correct size breaker in and forget the delimma with the power company. When I bought my property, I did that very thing. Installed breaker, got wire, conduit, breaker box for inside of shop. 15 years later never missed a stroke. No blinking lights either. Power tools and welder humming nicely.
I am sorry you are going through this. It took me over a year of run around and backtracking to get power to my land. I travel through an "easement" (titled into the property) to get to my land. The person in the 5 acres closest to the road has a power box at the end of his property put there for our property to also have power. After a 6mth wait for booking the power run, At the last minute the Electrical company needed a survey of his property and legal documentation to run the power through the titled easement to make sure we were not on his property. Surveyors were booking 6mth out.
One single (big ass fan) mounted center of shop keeps good air moving well. Does not use extreme power. Hookup for solar by itself would work great. Best of luck with the sucky system . You will find a way!!!!
Great point that anger feels good for a moment, and then doing something to solve the problem is the best way of using it. Love that.
I wired a backup generator in a similar fashion when we lost power. I didn't want to lose a refrigerator full of food yet again. I upgraded my panel to a 200A panel after than and installed a generator inlet. Now I can power everything in my house except my electric stove an A/C unit. Now I'm working on getting a soft start for the A/C to be able to run that off the generator as well.
Awesome!
Congrats to you, bro! I find that beating the system when it's working against you is one of the most satisfying joys in life.
Right on!
Stroke of GEEENIUS pulling off that 40 AMP outlet! Have you started that big restaurant job you mentioned a few videos ago?
Thanks! Not yet, they hit a couple snags that are getting ironed out. Very soon though!
Why do you need a separate meter for the shop? I'm sure you are doing a business, but if you can track the usage of the house over time, you can figure how much extra the shop uses. How far away is the house and what size service does it have? Just run a line from the main panel at the house to the shop and use the house service. If you overload their transformer and blow it up, they have to replace it. There was a story in my area some years back that a utility employee told me about. There were a number of houses on a dead end utility line and the transformer was not large enough. The utility wouldn't change it out. The home owners banded together and turned on every possible appliance to over load the transformer and burn it up. THEN the transformer got replaced with a larger one.
Looks good. It took me over 13 years to finally break down and have a mini-split installed in my shop. Thought I could make it in summer and winter with fans and "milk house" heaters. Couldn't make it any further. Summer in upper Central Texas almost killed me.
I'm going to be putting in a mini split very soon after I get legitimate power. Makes it way easier to go work in an air conditioned shop. Southeast Louisiana here so I feel ya on the summer heat
Looked into building a house in Montana. Put an offer in on a 10 acre property that had a transformer already on the corner of the property and we were told by the power company it would be 35K to hook up to power. We decided we didn't need a house in Mt. We talked to the neighbor in the process of building a house they told him the same thing. He told them, "well you just talked me into going Solar" and a 30KW generator for overcast and rainey days etc. Crazy!!!!!!!.
Could you run a fan or two? Might help. Hoping to do a 30’x42’ Quonset hut next year. 15’ of of one end will be living space, the rest will be my wood/ metal shop. Neat build. In my barn/shop all of my tool stands are wheeled, a HF mini mill, a very big table saw, a router sled table for cedar pies and a 4x4 workbench. My house has a Generac but it’s not connected to the barn.
Your a true American. Never let someone tell you you cant do what you can do on your property.
Amen!
Here in SE texas got you beat. 1 year wait for underground ( pad mount transformers) took 2 months longer to get 3 for our 4 buildings had to stop building 6 buildings because they can not yell us when or if we will get the missing 4 pad mount transformers at about 1.6 years so far
If heavier gage wire is unavailable and if your 40- and 30-amp hreakers can be double-tapped, consider doubling conductors for your temporary supply. On another note, how big is your A/C that 30 amps won't start it?
Ingenuity, perserverance and determination, the red blooded American man. Very nice job. Great shop!
Thanks!
sounds like a good reason for solar .. I get free 250w panels that end up needing diodes .. I plan on using just for lights in the house.. then as I get more and buy more I plan on increasing the sizing
Your story of perseverance is amazing.
Thank you for sharing.
God Speed.
Great job love the new shop! We built a house 26 years ago we did ourselves. Had a similar situation but with the septic I spent 18,000 on a raised drain field and they told me I couldn’t use because they was going to run city sewer. I understand the frustration it ridiculous they do stuff like this. Stay strong my friend things will workout it did for us
Thanks Tom!
We usually run ground up on outlets in a shop or garage. There is no required orientation but ground up is slightly safer. And cords less likely to come out. You should run a soft start or thicker wire. You can get bigger cover plates for the sloppy holes.
Commercial/industrial-ground up
Residential-ground down
Necessity is the mother of invention! Way to go, brother. Adapt and overcome.
Yes, thank you!
My air compressor and welder would trip the breaker but I replaced the 10 g with 6g from the house to the garage and it fixed that problem
A 3 ton residential AC if about 13 amps for the outside unit and a couple more for the blower which is 15amps @ 220vac. Multiplied together that 3,300 Watts. You can get 300 Watt solar panels for about $60 each and just 10 will give you 3000 Watts; but you have to double that for when clouds come and drop it all down by half. If you use batteries just as a buffer (because panel voltages fluctuate) you can build a bank out of cheap $40 lead-acid lawn mower batteries. You can use a cheap 10 amp DC to DC buck converter to regulate a single panel's voltage down the 14.5vdc to charge a single battery in a bank (one panel for each battery) or you can seires pairs of panels and use 10 amp DC to DC boost converters to charge a whole bank with the output of multiple converters in parallel. Just set the outputs the same at about 3-4 volts higher than the bank voltage so the current from them will get pushed into the batteries. I use (10) 12v batteries series-ed in a bank for 75vdc because there are plenty of DC to AC inverters currently available that will handle banks up to 75vdc. You can parallel banks too but you can't parallel the inverter AC outputs (unless you wire the control section of one to drive the power sections of others which is beyond most people's knowledge of how to do) and manufacturers lie about output ratings too. If you want over 3,000 Watts @ 220 vac continuous you should get at least a 6,000 Watt inverter. Only drag is most are made for 48vdc input so if you have 20 panels to 20 12v batteries you would have to parallel five banks of four in series and 6000 Watt inverters are around a grand and a half price wise. That's why I built my AC out of multiple automotive AC units and run each off 72vdc 3000 Watt Chinese Bldc motors with an included drive module for about $200 each; but then you still have condenser fans and evaporator blowers that have to be powered. Bottom line is you don't have to finance some big ass way expensive system just to get solar AC but you will need at least 16 to 20 panels, batteries for buffers, plus converters to charge them, and inverters to discharge them to your load.
well done for taking it into your own hands bud. What an amazing space you have made. costumes huh? Cant wait to see what that is about.
Thanks! Yea, I got a wild one coming up, it's gonna be, uhhhh,.....different 😂
Wish I lived close by. I'm retired now, but still have my excavator and could run that line underground. Later when you get your electric service you could use the RV line as a secondary service so it wouldn't go to waste.
Where there is will, there shall be found a way. You are an inspiration sir, and have a new subscriber.
Glad this is moving forward for you. I was guessing the problem was much bigger than six months. I thought perhaps the city had shut down a commercial business in a residential zone. Wishing you more good news to come!
No issues there, just a regular joe building a shop and doing my own thing as far as they're concerned.
that is good to hear,@@burnstockwoodworking
yeah, Matt from Diesel creek had issues getting power to his shop at a cost of about $60K, just for the power, even though he did all of the trenching, conduit, & transformer pad.
Makes me appreciate where I live even more. I don’t even have to pull a permit to build, just for septic.
fire is a big hazard in any workshop, hence planning is needed: fire extnguishers but also a garden water hose but in that case care must be given to electrical wiring, it runs on the floor and will get in contact with water...an overall breaker for the whole workshop would be required. Any ideas as fire exting. will last 30-40 seconds and the workshop is full of dried wood and sawdust. what would you recommend ?
I think a regular extinguisher is fine. If there is a risk of the fire getting into sawdust before you can put it out, I really think you should consider GTFOing instead of fire fighting. Search up "dust explosion". Fires can go from "easy to extinguish" to "holy shit GET OUT" in, like, a minute, or even less with easy combustibles like sawdust.
Are you planning on planting large shade trees, if so, plant ASAP to grow your own natural shade. And, there is always swamp coolers if needed in your area.
Glad you were able to get up and running, even if it's in a slightly diminished capacity. Sorry about the heat. Not sure who ordered it but it's been killing me too.
Is what it is. I've been looking for the receipt on the heat but can't seem to find it. I think it may be all the people that were whining about the cold last winter that placed the order 😆😆
@@burnstockwoodworking You're probably right.
just be careful, if you pull too much power through that cord and have too much of a voltage drop it will burn the motors in your tools up
He'll be lucky if it's only the motors that burn.
If you need a running cat DH2 from the 90s and some 1 in plate steel I say in about 6 months when they show up we can have it ready to take it out for a test drive to the Parrish Louisiana power company headquarters
I applaud your ingenuity for your temp fix, I would look into what kind of formal complaint or even lawsuit you could send to the power company since if your electrical needs/plans didn't change from when they first approved your layout to when they decided the transformer needed a redesign then there should have been no reason for the change on their end, if they are telling you that you have to pay for the transformer redesign and install that's basically fraud.
I haven't read all of the comments, but my time in service made me first think of getting a surplus 10kw generator on a trailer. They even work in war zones. 👊😜
I know i saw this video a bit late, but an easy solution in my opinion would be a 48v inverter with like 10kwh of battery. The cost would be around $4k but you can then feed the power as it is now into the inverter to charge the battery bank. it will utilize both grid and battery to power your loads being much more stable for equipment.
Run local solar grid tie. During the day it will lower the dimming and provide low impedence power close to your shop...
You know what you gotta do now right bud? Build an armor plated bulldozer..
I have heard and experienced with my current build, that power meter panels are up to 18 months backorder.
Wowser, not fair. But you have power. Thank you for sharing your awesome new workshop. Everyone stay safe, happy 😊😊 and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thanks!
Great you got it going. FYI- 10AWG run 150' for a 240V circuit is only good for 20A with a 3% voltage drop. I'm sure this will get you by, just keep that 20A limit in mind for any extended current draw.
Will do, thanks for the info!
I was going to add to this. You need to bump that gauge up. That voltage drop over that run is going to be significant.
So sorry about your run in with insane bureaucracy!! I sorta had a corollary problem … trying to run my small shop out of a 10x20 storage unit … NO electricity! So, I rigged up a Ryobi 1800w battery power inverter … and it works. Powers a mitre saw, band saw, drill press and LED lighting. Just take the portable inverter home to recharge each night.
Way to improvise, good on ya!
One of the reasons we moved to rural Oklahoma was to avoid this kind of crazy. The electrical co-op brought power to a panel outside with a meter box. I added two disconnect switches, then buried 3" conduit running to six different buildings. I brought power into the buildings and did all of the inside wiring myself. Totally up to code. Zero permits. Zero inspections. The only inspection we had was to install the septic system because that's how the state assesses property taxes. The inspector worked for the septic company doing the install. I even installed a culvert on a county road. No permits.
It's works for now, but the government will get you or who ever owns the property in the future. My restaurant was fully up to code, inspected and passed with a 100%. We added a 15x25 kitchen and now the city wants to see blueprints of the old part? Lol gtfo
@@RipliWitani There's a different standard for restaurants. About 20 years ago, we had our kids in a private christian school. They had a full kitchen and were making lunches for the kids. But the government kept nitpicking them. Stupid stuff, like this hood over the stove is 1" too low. They eventually made them remodel the entire kitchen, which they did. Then just a year later, they started finding even more infractions. They finally had to shut down the kitchen and started catering lunches. It's about politics and control. They just hated that the kids weren't in public schools. They may come for houses some day. But even following codes now won't matter. They'll just manufacture some other reason to mess with you. Having said that, our entire place is code compliant. There just weren't any inspections or enforcement.
Glad to see I'm not the only one who spaces screws evenly across things, even when it doesn't matter or is overkill.
(I actually didn't even realize it until someone saw me doing it and asked why, lol.)
I like everything to be as neat as possible so I feel ya!
if you want AC, get a Micro-Air Easy Start, but you might not be able to use as many tools when AC is running, keep the RV post out there just in case, you can argue a temp setup vs a perm setup
You are bound to be in Louisiana, so am I. Love your shop. I wish I could build one.
Yep, Hammond/Ponchatoula area. Thanks!
If it’s the same in your area as mine, you’ll need another inspection just before the power company installs your meter. Be careful they don’t see your “jerry rigged” service entrance.
150’ of 10/3 plus the 8/3 likely underground to the RV tap has a significant resistance issue over that distance….some engineers also deduct 20 percent additionally for underground service…so a 6 wire copper or even 224 URD feeder would be a cleaner choice…and and capable of higher amperage’s…and loads…and not far in cost from 10/3 UF…..money is always an issue of course…good luck!
Bro....that table saw didn't look that hard to move. lol. Glad you got everything going! You are inspiring me!!
I just made it look easy 😂
I was going to say that some states will let the owners do all of the prep work. And they just come in and lay the wire and hook it up.
But you have already done that.
You should probably get a lock out for the main breaker incase someone were to accidentally turn it on if it’s hooked up to anything else you could back feed that system potentially damaging appliances or worse someone else. I don’t know exactly what your situation is or if there’s even anything tied into that main breaker but that’s my advice
You could have run a heavier gauge, would have cost a little more but 10 gauge is a little lite for the for your senario. Even if it is 10 at the pole you can go heavier downstream.