Just did this today 4/25/22, First of all Thanks for the video, allow yourself plenty of time to do this, it is not as easy as the video shows. The lower hose will take a lot of time, it is very hard to get pliers, channel locks on the factory hose clamps at the bottom. My hands are all banged up just twisting and turning in the little space underneath. Once you get the clamps moved, I had to slice the hose with a box cutter to get the hose off, do this carefully and slowly. I also had to do the same cutting on the upper hose to free them as they were stuck, not surprised after 11 yrs. I am a weekend mechanic and certainly not an expert, but it did take me about 5 hrs. before it was all said and done...whew
Don't use screw driver fixed clamps!!! As the engine heats up the rubber hoses expand. The spring type clamps allow for expansion and contraction. The fixed screw clamps will leak.
Thanks for the video, btw the V6 rav4 is just one big hell of a mess, i really don't know what toyota was thinking Nothing easy on that one, but 4 cylinder is way easier
Thank you for your time doing these videos on the 08 RAV 4. I have a '08 Highlander which I believe has the same drive train. If in the future if you happen to know where the RAV 4 or Highlander are similar or vary, it would be appreciated if you mention it. Of course, just when you happen to know. Thanks again.
I attempted to do this a few weeks ago when I was switching my winter tires back to all seasons and that lower radiator hose looks like a real pain in the neck to get to especially the lower connection. I am going to try again this Saturday when its sunny out and I have the full day in case it takes forever I tend to underestimate the labor hours for my projects. I do own the 2 types of hose clamp pliers to work on this but it still looks like a tight spot I was considering removing the lower radiator support to access. Any thoughts? Appreciate all your videos they prepare me when I dive in to a job on my wife's 11 Rav4. Take it easy and be safe.
Follow up I did this job a few weeks ago. The lower radiator hose was accessible from the top when I removed the upper radiator brace. You really need to use the cable style hose clamp pliers to get them off because the clamping ears are facing downward. When I put the new hose on I put the clamping ears facing up for both easy installation and easier removal for next time. As Masterjacks says if attempting this job you should really have the specialty hose clamp pliers it will make your life a lot easier.
Hello! I have a Rav4 3rd Generation from 2006 with 177 hp. I am having problems with water leaking from the water tank. I've already replaced the water pump, thermostat and reservoir cap and water still leaks. The mechanic is still not sure if it's a blown head gasket. Do you know what it could be?
Why change all the hoses when they look good still? Before in the 70's and earlier hoses did not last very long so it was common to change all them. These Toyota hose can last the life of the car and many do. The only one that is common to fail is the hose with the y connector which has a tendency to crack due to stress on the 4 cyl models.
Toyota doesn't sell the y connector separate. They make you buy the entire assembly and you can't pull the y connector off. It sort of forces you to replace the entire thing. That's what I had to do. My hoses looked great, too. Oh well!
It did not leaking, bulging or crack if it's not broke don't fix them that's Master Jack mechanic told me. Our 08 Rav 4 217,000 original power train miles! This is the only vehicle we got this many miles in my life!
Wow you rav 4 got 124000 miles our 08 Rav4 got 213000 miles original miles same hoses. My mechanic say everything looks good. When do you replaces them?
@@HB-yq8gy If it's rusted out, there's a good chance your coolant has broken down and parts are starting to corrode. Your water pump might not be far behind. It may be a good idea to replace it and flush the coolant at the same time.
@@MasterJacks Thank you my mechanic didn't mention anything about "in let coolant tube" & i forgot to ask. Dealer replaced water pump for free part of "oil consumption recall" at 90,000 miles. My mechanic thinks dealer broke old water pump.
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
Hi there, great video.. now have a question about the top of the tank (0:38).. there is an inlet facing back, without any hose or cap, in my case it seems that coolant has been coming out from it, leaving the coolant way below the “Low” level… should i just top up the coolant reservoir to the Full level and forget about it?
Hello and thank you for posting your videos on the 2008 RAV4. I’ve decided to make any repairs and upgrades instead of buying a new car. So I watched your video on fuel injectors and I replaced the fuel injectors and the car runs very smoothly now. No more rough idle. But, when I first start the car I really have to pump the gas for it sounds like it’s not going to start. This did not happen before I changed the fuel injectors. Other than re-checking the fuel injectors do you have any suggestions on what I should try next. Thank you so much for your time
great video, I'm about to do the same job because the Y-Hose adaptor is leaking slightly. But my question - aren't you supposed to NOT mix the pink and yellow coolant? You didn't flush the system before you switched to Yellow AF.
So I have a 2010. And the hose on the back end that goes to the dash from the engine is loose. I’m guessing it should have a clamp because I keep leaking coolant all over the place. But I’m wondering if I’m going to have to replace other parts like the thermostat too because it’s now over heating. Great video.
Well done, Jack, thank you! I'll be doing this in a few weeks. My understanding is that there's a block drain on the front of the motor, so I'll probably open that up as well. Also, I thought Toyota specified pink (asian) coolant for their cooling systems, and that the two coolant types shouldn't be mixed? Perhaps you or your brother could she'd some light on the subject. Thanks again for the video!
You can get pretty scientific about does and don'ts with coolant. Universal coolants are formulated to mix with a variety of extended-life coolants. The makers claim compatibility with any make, model, and year. I feel pretty safe adding/mixing a universal coolant to a manufacturer's specific coolant. If the system has the green stuff (30-50k coolant), it is recommended you flush the system completely before going to an extended-life coolant. The block drain is a good idea. I like removing the thermostat and completely flushing the block. It's also a good idea to flush the heater core by disconnecting heater hoses through the firewall. Just depends on how involved you want to get. I typically flush it with a regular garden hose, but some would say the minerals inherent to tap water lead to electrolysis and early corrosion. You can't win! Sounds like you're taking great care of your vehicle! Keep it up. MJ
MasterJacks Haha, you really can't win sometimes, but doing something is usually better than doing nothing, right? Keep the videos coming, brother, I really look forward to them, seeing we have the same vehicle. I've learned a lot, thank you!
Hey Jack, are you having any issues with oil consumption with your RAV? I've used Mobil 1 5w-20 with matching filter since new, changing it every 5k. It will sometimes burn close to a quart during this interval. I've read that some models have issues with the oil ring on the pistons.
I haven't with this vehicle. If it truley is the oil rings...that sucks. lol. If it were my vehicle, I would try a couple of minor things and hope to get lucky. I would do a crankcase flush. Put some Sea Foam in the crankcase, run it for 10-25 miles, then dump the oil and do an oil change. Also try a PCV valve if you haven't already.
MasterJacks I did the PCV, plugs, air filter and oil change last week. Also cleaned the throttle plate and MAF. If it keeps burning oil, I may try Seafoam in the crankcase before the next change. Some people have had success pulling the plugs and soaking the chamber overnight with Seafoam. Time will tell.
All that job and you put the wrong coolant. Toyota RAV4 ONLY take TOYOTA Super Long Life coolant OEM( Non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite and non-borate coolant formulated with long-life hybrid organic acid technology) or ZEREX Asian Formula, they are both pink. You put the green stuff...bad for Toyota engines.
This is a good conversation. I spoke with an engineer that designs cooling systems for a living. He said nitrates, amine, and borate are corrosion inhibitor additives since ethylene glycol by itself is prone to oxidize into acids that eat metal. Over time, the amount of additives in solute become neutralized, and the coolant becomes acidic, hence the need to flush. Organic based additives, like those found in Toyota coolant also have corrosion inhibitor additives, they just take longer to degrade. Traditional coolant is not harmful to the engine, however, will be need to be changed more often.
@@MasterJacks Hi. I appreciate your videos and I can appreciate your sibling that is a cooling system engineer. That being said, did you really need to be so snarky? You make good points, but other cooling system engineers who work for toyota and work with their metallurgists an😮d engine/powertrain engineers have deemed it best. Why not have civil discourse without coming off like you're infallible and being annoyed for someone pointing out something factual? I feel he did add to the whole package...comments are sometimes the best part. Just saying, an informed rebuttal by the man behind the great video without bitterness would have been so much classier.
@@vig37 thanks for the feedback, this was a long time ago. I've edited my original response to hopefully remove what may have been viewed as emotionally charged.
Yes. It's not necessary to change the hoses if they're good. Years ago hoses didn't last like modern hoses do and they were often changed periodically as a preventative to avoid a break down on the road.
Great video will it be an issue driving the car to the Napa store 4 miles from my place to get the hose or should I just walk there ? Also is the Napa part ok ? Part #: UNR 16037 Line: NAPA Cooling ?
Uh, do you mean without coolant or without anything including water? It would be okay as long as the system is holding water and you have water in the radiator and as long as it's not freezing out. A radiator will freeze up fast in cold weather without antifreeze in it.
2:55 is exactly where I'm stuck. I can't get a fking plyer in there to get the damn clamp off. I swear those demonic Toyota engineers make things so difficult so we'll be forced to over pay them for a simple repair.
The 3 way connector at the top of the upper hose had been leaking coolant for the last few weeks on my 2011 Rav4, and I've been driving around with spare coolant in the trunk and checking the reservoir levels every day. You make it look easy but do you think it'd cost a lot at the mechanic to change out?
I was quoted around $200 for parts and labor. I got the part myself for $30. I went back and got the bolt clamps because my tiny lady hands couldn't cope with the compression clamps. I'll keep them though just in case. It was a tough job for someone that's not a mechanic with a weak grip, but I'm pretty handy. This video helped me a lot. Good luck!
Toyota says drain and refill at 100,000 miles or ten years. After that they say to drain and refill every 50,000 miles or 5 years. They don't say anything about flushing. I think a flush would only be important if the system was gummed up or if a different coolant formula was used previously or if it was contaminated from a blown head gasket...?
They actually felt pretty good and weren't really in need. This was a friend's vehicle and he wanted to do the coolant and hoses together. In hindsight, I would have skipped the hoses and done a coolant flush. I have better video demonstrating a coolant flush on a Camry. The process is the same for the RAV4. ruclips.net/video/-D-I5rEkcK0/видео.html
This is the best most straightforward coolant hose replacement run down that I've seen. Thank you!
Just did this today 4/25/22, First of all Thanks for the video, allow yourself plenty of time to do this, it is not as easy as the video shows.
The lower hose will take a lot of time, it is very hard to get pliers, channel locks on the factory hose clamps at the bottom. My hands are all banged up just twisting and turning in the little space underneath. Once you get the clamps moved, I had to slice the hose with a box cutter to get the hose off, do this carefully and slowly. I also had to do the same cutting on the upper hose to free them as they were stuck, not surprised after 11 yrs.
I am a weekend mechanic and certainly not an expert, but it did take me about 5 hrs. before it was all said and done...whew
Don't use screw driver fixed clamps!!! As the engine heats up the rubber hoses expand. The spring type clamps allow for expansion and contraction. The fixed screw clamps will leak.
prefer compression clamps myself (Though they are a pain and a knuckle buster) the screw type creates a "pressure point"
Thanks for the video, btw the V6 rav4 is just one big hell of a mess, i really don't know what toyota was thinking
Nothing easy on that one, but 4 cylinder is way easier
Ah your a good man Master Jacks!
lol
Thank you for your time doing these videos on the 08 RAV 4. I have a '08 Highlander which I believe has the same drive train. If in the future if you happen to know where the RAV 4 or Highlander are similar or vary, it would be appreciated if you mention it. Of course, just when you happen to know. Thanks again.
Thank you , very Engrossingly educational....
I attempted to do this a few weeks ago when I was switching my winter tires back to all seasons and that lower radiator hose looks like a real pain in the neck to get to especially the lower connection. I am going to try again this Saturday when its sunny out and I have the full day in case it takes forever I tend to underestimate the labor hours for my projects. I do own the 2 types of hose clamp pliers to work on this but it still looks like a tight spot I was considering removing the lower radiator support to access. Any thoughts? Appreciate all your videos they prepare me when I dive in to a job on my wife's 11 Rav4. Take it easy and be safe.
Follow up I did this job a few weeks ago. The lower radiator hose was accessible from the top when I removed the upper radiator brace. You really need to use the cable style hose clamp pliers to get them off because the clamping ears are facing downward. When I put the new hose on I put the clamping ears facing up for both easy installation and easier removal for next time. As Masterjacks says if attempting this job you should really have the specialty hose clamp pliers it will make your life a lot easier.
It’s a good video
Hello! I have a Rav4 3rd Generation from 2006 with 177 hp. I am having problems with water leaking from the water tank. I've already replaced the water pump, thermostat and reservoir cap and water still leaks. The mechanic is still not sure if it's a blown head gasket. Do you know what it could be?
Why change all the hoses when they look good still? Before in the 70's and earlier hoses did not last very long so it was common to change all them. These Toyota hose can last the life of the car and many do. The only one that is common to fail is the hose with the y connector which has a tendency to crack due to stress on the 4 cyl models.
Toyota doesn't sell the y connector separate. They make you buy the entire assembly and you can't pull the y connector off. It sort of forces you to replace the entire thing. That's what I had to do. My hoses looked great, too. Oh well!
Yeah, they were still good. This was a friends vehicle and he requested they be done.
It did not leaking, bulging or crack if it's not broke don't fix them that's Master Jack mechanic told me. Our 08 Rav 4 217,000 original power train miles! This is the only vehicle we got this many miles in my life!
Wow you rav 4 got 124000 miles our 08 Rav4 got 213000 miles original miles same hoses. My mechanic say everything looks good. When do you replaces them?
If they still look good, I wouldn't worry about it. Replace them when they begin to bulge, crack, leak, or have soft spots.
@@MasterJacks Thank you MJ you're the best keep the videos coming!
@@MasterJacks I'm worried about that thermostat metal tube on top very rusted in areas. But not leaking. If not broke don't fix it.
@@HB-yq8gy If it's rusted out, there's a good chance your coolant has broken down and parts are starting to corrode. Your water pump might not be far behind. It may be a good idea to replace it and flush the coolant at the same time.
@@MasterJacks Thank you my mechanic didn't mention anything about "in let coolant tube" & i forgot to ask.
Dealer replaced water pump for free part of "oil consumption recall" at 90,000 miles. My mechanic thinks dealer broke old
water pump.
very helpful thanks
Hello! I'm having problems with my 2006 Rav4, please can you help me find out what it could be? I notice that when I drive for extended periods, once the engine is warmed up, water begins to leak from the radiator, escaping through the radiator cap and also through the breather. There is also an oil leak (under the car on the right side); the oil is very clear and thin. These leaks don't occur when I drive for a short time, only after about 20 minutes of driving. I've already checked the engine oil level, but it's fine. Could you please provide some insight into what the issue might be?
Excellent
Hi there, great video.. now have a question about the top of the tank (0:38).. there is an inlet facing back, without any hose or cap, in my case it seems that coolant has been coming out from it, leaving the coolant way below the “Low” level… should i just top up the coolant reservoir to the Full level and forget about it?
Hello and thank you for posting your videos on the 2008 RAV4. I’ve decided to make any repairs and upgrades instead of buying a new car. So I watched your video on fuel injectors and I replaced the fuel injectors and the car runs very smoothly now. No more rough idle. But, when I first start the car I really have to pump the gas for it sounds like it’s not going to start. This did not happen before I changed the fuel injectors. Other than re-checking the fuel injectors do you have any suggestions on what I should try next. Thank you so much for your time
good
great video, I'm about to do the same job because the Y-Hose adaptor is leaking slightly. But my question - aren't you supposed to NOT mix the pink and yellow coolant? You didn't flush the system before you switched to Yellow AF.
Yeah, stick with the same fluid.
So I have a 2010. And the hose on the back end that goes to the dash from the engine is loose. I’m guessing it should have a clamp because I keep leaking coolant all over the place. But I’m wondering if I’m going to have to replace other parts like the thermostat too because it’s now over heating. Great video.
There's a good chance it's overheating because it's low on coolant. I'd install a clamp and top off the coolant. Might solve the overheating issue.
So can I put a Dual Radiator and Condenser Fan Assembly in this same Toyota rav 4.
super bueno
Well done, Jack, thank you! I'll be doing this in a few weeks. My understanding is that there's a block drain on the front of the motor, so I'll probably open that up as well. Also, I thought Toyota specified pink (asian) coolant for their cooling systems, and that the two coolant types shouldn't be mixed? Perhaps you or your brother could she'd some light on the subject. Thanks again for the video!
You can get pretty scientific about does and don'ts with coolant. Universal coolants are formulated to mix with a variety of extended-life coolants. The makers claim compatibility with any make, model, and year. I feel pretty safe adding/mixing a universal coolant to a manufacturer's specific coolant. If the system has the green stuff (30-50k coolant), it is recommended you flush the system completely before going to an extended-life coolant.
The block drain is a good idea. I like removing the thermostat and completely flushing the block. It's also a good idea to flush the heater core by disconnecting heater hoses through the firewall. Just depends on how involved you want to get. I typically flush it with a regular garden hose, but some would say the minerals inherent to tap water lead to electrolysis and early corrosion. You can't win!
Sounds like you're taking great care of your vehicle! Keep it up. MJ
MasterJacks Haha, you really can't win sometimes, but doing something is usually better than doing nothing, right? Keep the videos coming, brother, I really look forward to them, seeing we have the same vehicle. I've learned a lot, thank you!
Hey Jack, are you having any issues with oil consumption with your RAV? I've used Mobil 1 5w-20 with matching filter since new, changing it every 5k. It will sometimes burn close to a quart during this interval. I've read that some models have issues with the oil ring on the pistons.
I haven't with this vehicle. If it truley is the oil rings...that sucks. lol. If it were my vehicle, I would try a couple of minor things and hope to get lucky. I would do a crankcase flush. Put some Sea Foam in the crankcase, run it for 10-25 miles, then dump the oil and do an oil change. Also try a PCV valve if you haven't already.
MasterJacks I did the PCV, plugs, air filter and oil change last week. Also cleaned the throttle plate and MAF. If it keeps burning oil, I may try Seafoam in the crankcase before the next change. Some people have had success pulling the plugs and soaking the chamber overnight with Seafoam. Time will tell.
taken. 100K AF is PINK. You used the yellow stuff.
Well done
Now my turn 😊
All that job and you put the wrong coolant. Toyota RAV4 ONLY take TOYOTA Super Long Life coolant OEM( Non-silicate, non-amine, non-nitrite and non-borate coolant formulated with long-life hybrid organic acid technology) or ZEREX Asian Formula, they are both pink. You put the green stuff...bad for Toyota engines.
This is a good conversation. I spoke with an engineer that designs cooling systems for a living. He said nitrates, amine, and borate are corrosion inhibitor additives since ethylene glycol by itself is prone to oxidize into acids that eat metal. Over time, the amount of additives in solute become neutralized, and the coolant becomes acidic, hence the need to flush. Organic based additives, like those found in Toyota coolant also have corrosion inhibitor additives, they just take longer to degrade. Traditional coolant is not harmful to the engine, however, will be need to be changed more often.
@@MasterJacks
I'd much rather change it less often and because I can be forgetful the Super Long Life coolant is like insurance.
@@MasterJacks Hi. I appreciate your videos and I can appreciate your sibling that is a cooling system engineer. That being said, did you really need to be so snarky? You make good points, but other cooling system engineers who work for toyota and work with their metallurgists an😮d engine/powertrain engineers have deemed it best. Why not have civil discourse without coming off like you're infallible and being annoyed for someone pointing out something factual? I feel he did add to the whole package...comments are sometimes the best part. Just saying, an informed rebuttal by the man behind the great video without bitterness would have been so much classier.
@@vig37 thanks for the feedback, this was a long time ago. I've edited my original response to hopefully remove what may have been viewed as emotionally charged.
@@MasterJacks Geez, didn't even realize how long ago that was. Great video. You've got a subscriber in me. Appreciate the response.
Hello and thanks for the video. Just curious to know why you changed the Hoses as they looked OK to me ? But, what do I know !
These hoses were still good. This was a friend's vehicle and he requested they be done.
Yes. It's not necessary to change the hoses if they're good. Years ago hoses didn't last like modern hoses do and they were often changed periodically as a preventative to avoid a break down on the road.
Great video will it be an issue driving the car to the Napa store 4 miles from my place to get the hose or should I just walk there ? Also is the Napa part ok ? Part #: UNR 16037 Line: NAPA Cooling ?
Uh, do you mean without coolant or without anything including water?
It would be okay as long as the system is holding water and you have water in the radiator and as long as it's not freezing out. A radiator will freeze up fast in cold weather without antifreeze in it.
@@njsongwriter Thanks but got my answer that day , Been 3 months since I posted ;)
2:55 is exactly where I'm stuck. I can't get a fking plyer in there to get the damn clamp off. I swear those demonic Toyota engineers make things so difficult so we'll be forced to over pay them for a simple repair.
The 3 way connector at the top of the upper hose had been leaking coolant for the last few weeks on my 2011 Rav4, and I've been driving around with spare coolant in the trunk and checking the reservoir levels every day. You make it look easy but do you think it'd cost a lot at the mechanic to change out?
My guess is an hour labor plus parts (coolant and hose) probably looking around $150.
I was quoted around $200 for parts and labor. I got the part myself for $30. I went back and got the bolt clamps because my tiny lady hands couldn't cope with the compression clamps. I'll keep them though just in case. It was a tough job for someone that's not a mechanic with a weak grip, but I'm pretty handy. This video helped me a lot. Good luck!
@@LilyBean82 Wow nice to hear that a lady is willing to do her own vehical repairs.
How often the cooling system needs to be flashed and add a new antifreeze ??
Toyota says drain and refill at 100,000 miles or ten years. After that they say to drain and refill every 50,000 miles or 5 years.
They don't say anything about flushing. I think a flush would only be important if the system was gummed up or if a different coolant formula was used previously or if it was contaminated from a blown head gasket...?
Was there a reason why you replaced all the coolant hoses?
They actually felt pretty good and weren't really in need. This was a friend's vehicle and he wanted to do the coolant and hoses together. In hindsight, I would have skipped the hoses and done a coolant flush. I have better video demonstrating a coolant flush on a Camry. The process is the same for the RAV4. ruclips.net/video/-D-I5rEkcK0/видео.html
How many miles before you do this? got a 2008 rav 4 with 110K miles...
100,000 mi or 5 years is a pretty standard interval on long life coolant.
@@MasterJacks
Isn't the yellow formula only good for three years?
My 08 Rav4 radiator as been flushed but the top metal tube is rusted out. I'm afraid it will start to leak. What's the name of that tube?
Most likely called a "water inlet housing". I'd go to the dealer and order it from their parts diagram.
How many gallons did you use?
Can't remember exactly, but I believe I bought one bottle of concentrate and mixed it into 2 gallons. There was enough and to spare.
@@MasterJacks
My dealer says the Super Long Life formula us only available in premixed?
I have a 2009 Rav4. At a speed of 40 km to 80 km a buzzing sound is heard. What is the problem?
Swahili please